https://www.ratiozero.com/ Support the channel by shopping through this link: https://amzn.to/3RIqU0u Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Become a member: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwosUnVH6AINmxtqkNJ3Fbg/join Grit: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCt3YSIPcvJsYbwGCDLNiIKA Today I have the privilege to hold in my hands something special. It is called Ratio Zero and it is the worlds first operational gear based cvt But before I explain how this piece of mechanical poetry actually works allow me to first explain why a gear based CVT is a big deal. As you probably know CVT stands for continuously variable transmission and from the perspective of fuel efficiency, smoothness and ease of use they are the ultimate transmission. And while I would not choose a CVT transmission for a vehicle that I want to take to a twisty mountain road or to the track where I want to enjoy revving the engine out through the gears, I would gladly choose a CVT for a vehicle that I drive everyday on the highway or in boring stop-and go commuter traffic. A traditional manual or automatic transmission has a set number of gear ratios or speeds For example, a gear ratio of 3.6:1 tells us that for every 3.6 revolution of the engine, the wheels only make one revolution while the torque at the wheels is increased 3.6 times. So the frist gear reduces vehicle but increases torque, this is why it’s used for getting the vehicle moving from a standstill and top climb steep hills. A manual or automatic transmission will usually have anywhere between 4 to 8 such gear ratios which we call speeds. Compared to this a CVT will only have two “gear ratios” or speeds. This is because a cvt does not have gears Instead we have two conical pulleys and a belt or chain running around them. We slide the belt along these pulleys and the different sizes of the pulleys at different parts of the cone simulate an endless number of different gear sizes which means that a CVT has an endless number of ratios in this range between its lowest and highest ratio. So if an automatic or manual is a 6 speed or 7 speed or whatever than a CVT is a million speed transmission or an infinite number of speeds transmission. Ok, if CVTs are so great why aren’t they more popular? Why aren’t they on every car, truck, motorcycle, bicycle? Well, that’s because traditional CVTs, they kinda suck. Their first problem is that although they help the engine be more efficient, they themselves are not very efficient at all and that’s because friction is at the very core of the design of a CVT. If you observe the inner workings you will see that torque is transferred between the pulleys by a belt or a chain. The belt or chain has nothing to grip onto, there are no gear teeth, no notches, no grabbing points, which means that the belt tension or the friction between the belt itself and the smooth surface of the pulley cone are the only thing transferring the torque. Which means that to transfer substantial amounts of torque we need substantial friction and as we know friction leads to efficiency losses, heat and wear. This is why a typical belt or chain CVT in a car is around 80-88% efficient, a more simple scooter CVT is around 70-75% efficient whereas a geared manual transmission is 95-97% efficient in almost all applications. This is why researchers, inventors and many others have been trying to create a transmission that combines the smoothness, ease of use, fuel efficiency and continually variable gear ratios of the CVT with the torque capacity and low friction of a geared transmission. Despite repeated efforts there has been little success, until in 2016 a man named Edyson Pavlicu had a breakthrough idea - to split the rotation and create the world's first geared CVT transmission - Ratio Zero. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Toma Marini Zwoa Meda Beda valqk Cole Philips Marwan Hassan11 RePeteAndMe Sam Lutfi 00:00 The Problem with Manuals and Automatics 04:24 The Problem with Traditional CVTs 08:03 Splitting The Rotation 15:12 A Better Prototype

To try everything Brilliant has to offer for free for a full 30 days, visit https://brilliant.org/d4a/ . You'll also get 20% off an annual premium subscription. The amazing thing about valveless pulsejet engines is that they are the simplest known engines and that’s because they have zero moving parts, essentially they are just a hollow pipe of varying shape and diameter. That’s it. Just like our glass jar. Despite their extremely simple anatomy their working principle is in fact pretty complex and can be difficult to explain and understand and that’s because inside a pulsejet we have three distinct processes that occur simultaneously to ensure their continued operation. The first process involves the fluid dynamics caused by the combustion of the air and fuel inside the combustion chamber of the engine The second process is acoustic and involves the sound waves created by the combustion The third process is thermodynamic and involves the rapidly changing temperatures of the gasses inside the engine So as you can see a lot of stuff is going on making things kinda complicated, but if you do manage to properly understand a pulse jet I promise that you will gain a new multi-disciplinary appreciation and understanding of the amazing things that physics can do, even with zero moving parts. The pulsejet shape we will be using for our explanation is the Lockwood - Hiller which comes from the early 60s is sort of a culmination of a hundred years of trial and error and is probably the most popular design by far today and that’s because it offers a really nice balance of ease of starting, thrust, efficiency, and reliability. The main parts of any pulsejet engine are the intake, the exhaust and the combustion chamber. To start the engine we will inject fuel, in most cases this will be propane from a tank that will be injected either directly into the combustion chamber or in front of the engine at the intake. We will also install a spark plug inside the combustion chamber. The spark plug is needed only during the starting phase and is not used later. So let’s imagine we have opened our propane valve and allowed fuel into the chamber. Because the engine is a hollow tube we already have air inside it which means that now we have an air-fuel mixture in the chamber. We ignite that air-fuel mixture which causes it to combust. As the combustion flame front expands it increases the pressure and temperature dramatically. This expansion of the combustion forces and accelerates the masses of air in the intake and the exhaust out of the engine. Now a jet engine is a reaction engine. As you know for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. So by accelerating the air mass in one direction the reactionary force moves the engine in the other direction and if we attach that engine onto something that something will move together with the engine. So what we have inside a pulsejet is something that was called thermal breathing by Francois H. Reynst, who is considered one of the most important pioneers of modern pulsed combustion. So if pulsejets are so simple and they can produce thrust why aren’t they more widespread? Well, first of all, they have poor fuel efficiency. One of the reasons behind that is that we are igniting the air fuel mix with the heat of the exhaust gas. That means that we always have a mix of exhaust gas air and fuel upon ignition which is less then ideal leading to an incomplete burn of the fuel which then gets spit out the intake and exhaust. The other reason we have poor efficiency is that there is no active compression. A turbojet or a turbofan have a compressor section consisting of several stators and rotors which easily increase the pressure of the air five times over or even more. A pulsejet only has atmospheric pressure at it’s disposal. When we ignite compressed air and fuel we achieve a much higher combustion temperature which not only helps to burn the fuel more completely but it also achieves much higher combustion pressure leading to higher thrust. Another reason why pulsejets produce less thrust is the intermittent nature of the combustion which is simply less capable of producing high thrust compared to the constant combustion inside a turbojet or a turbofan. The final drawback is the noise. Pulsejets are incredibly loud compared to most other engines. Despite their drawbacks, pulsejets are by far the simplest and cost effective way of achieving powered propulsion or flight making them an ideal candidate for RC planes and other unmanned aircraft. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Toma Marini Zwoa Meda Beda valqk Cole Philips Marwan Hassan11 RePeteAndMe Sam Lutfi 00:00 Glass Jar Jet Engine 03:46 Operating Principle and Fluid Dynamics 12:16 Acoustics 17:28 Thermodynamics 18:55 Drawbacks and Benefits #d4a #pulsejet

Try Onshape, the world's most capable in-browser CAD software for free for 6 months: https://Onshape.pro/d4a JLC3DP 3D Printing Starts from $0.3, CNC starts at $8, Up to $60 New User Coupons: https://jlc3dp.com/?from=driving4answers Question 1. How come the vanes don’t scrape against the ports. This was a very common question and honestly, I’m surprised that it was so common. The little 3d model in the previous video is obviously a cross-section of the engine. While it may seem like the vanes might catch onto the port in the fully frontal cross-sectioned display of the model it is also very easy to imagine how the vanes do not catch onto the ports because the vanes are larger than the ports, this is the intake port of our little prototype and this is the exhaust port. As you can see the vane does not fit inside any of the ports as it passes by so obviously if it doesn’t fit inside it can’t catch onto it. The difference in port size vs vane size is also shown in the previous video but seeing that requires watching the video before commenting which of course is asking too much. Ok, Question 2. In the previous video I have said how the rotary vane engine is a vibration-free engine. Many people commented how I was wrong because the vanes move up and down and this creates vibration. I’d like to draw your attention to the fact that each vane is opposed by another vane. When one when is extending so it is the opposing vane. When one when is retracting so to is the opposing vane. The same thing happens in our prototype. The vanes are of equal mass, they are perfectly opposed and they create forces of equal magnitude and opposite directions which means that the forces creates by the vanes cancel each other out. It doesn’t matter how many vanes we have, four like in the animation or 6 like in our prototype. As long as the number of vanes is even we will have an engine with zero vibrations. Question 3. The springs will fail. I honestly have no idea idea why this comment was so common? We have valve springs in piston engine right? Are they a frequent point of failure? No. They aren’t even a service item. They last the life of the engine. There is no reason why the springs in a vane engine would be an issue as nowadays we can manufacture extremely durable springs at affordable prices. I really have nothing special to add here. Question 4. Clearance between housing and vane tips In the last video I have also mentioned how centrifugal force drives the springs into the housing which increases wear and have suggested piezoelectric actuation as a form to prevent the vant tip from contacting the housing. There have been several comments that responded to this by saying how it’s impossible for piezoelectric actuation to manage the large movement of the vane since piezoelectric actuation can usually only handle ranges of a few micrometers. And yes, this is correct. But I never said that piezoelectric actuation would handle the entire movement range, because 1. It can’t and 2 it doesn’t need to. If you observe our model in slow motion you can see that as soon as we initiate rotation of the engine, centrifugal force flings the blade outwards. There is no need to control their entire range at all. Piezoelectric actuation would only handle the last few fractions of a milimeter in order to maintain a no-contact gas seal. Such piezoelectric actuators could either be embedded in the housing or in the blades themselves. Alternatively piezoelectric actuation can be used together with mechanical blade control systems to ensure a no contact gas seal because there are realistically numerous mechanical ways to control the blade movement. For example in 1967 Popular Mechanics published an article about a 400 horsepower vane engine that used a cam in the center of the engine to control blade movement. Another example is this system conceived by an inventor from Poland, which incorporates a predetermined track through which vanes and vane guides roll during engine operation. This is a simple system that leads to reduced friction and wear. One of my subscribers sent me this email after I published the last video where he suggests incorporating gears to control vane movement which is another viable solution which was in fact already patented in the past. So as you can see there many different ways to control blade movement, of course which one of these ways is best suited for what kind of application and budget must be discovered through methodical research and development efforts. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Toma Marini Zwoa Meda Beda valqk Cole Philips Marwan Hassan11 RePeteAndMe Sam Lutfi #d4a #rotary #rotaryvane 00:00 How it's made 04:53 Q1: Vanes catching on ports 06:05 Q2: Engine balance 07:24 Q3: Springs 08:45 Q4 Piezoelectric actuation 11:42 Q5 Vanes will fail 14:05 Q6 Uneven heating 16:40 Start attempt

To try everything Brilliant has to offer for free for a full 30 days, visit https://brilliant.org/d4a/ . You'll also get 20% off an annual premium subscription. If you have ever observed dirt bikes you have probably noticed that some of them have simple uniform diameter pipes coming out of the engine while some other bikes have very different-looking pipes with large bulges and great variations in diameter. A two stroke exhaust pipe has a weird shape with greatly varying diameters and a large bulge in the form of the expansion chamber. You can only find it on two-stroke motorcycles and never on four-stroke motorcycles. To understand why we need these pipes we must first observe the two stroke engine in a bit more detail. Unlike a four stroke engine a two stroke engine has no camshafts or valves, it’s cylinder head is essentially just a cap. Despite this simple construction the two stroke manages to fire during every single engine revolution which means that we have a combustion event every 360 degrees of rotation whereas in a four stroke we have a combustion event only every 720 degrees of rotation. All of this means that a two-stroke is capable achieving a better power-to-weight ratio than a four stroke. When the piston first uncovers the exhaust ports and the blowdown phase begins the exhaust gas of course rapidly bursts out through the tiny opening. This of course creates a loud powerful sound and as we know sound is a pressure wave so we get a pressure wave coming out of the engine going through the exhaust pipe. Various explanations you might have encountered may have used terminology such as exhaust pulse or combustion pulse or similar and while these are not necessarily incorrect and can help you visuallize things they become useless later in the explanation. What comes out of the engine when the exhaust port opens is in fact a sound wave which is a pressure wave. Here you can see an image shot using a special photography method that shows the end of an exhaust pipe releasing exhaust gas into the atmosphere. Here you can see the pressure wave which is only later followed by the actual exhaust gas. So the pressure wave is traveling through the pipe. It remains pretty constant through the initial uniform part of the pipe. After this, it reaches the diverging or the expanding section of the pipe. So what happens here? Here we have a change in the medium. Or medium is gas and if the pipe diverges our volume increases which means that the molecules of the gas in this space are further apart, in other words, the gas is less dense here. And whenever a wave encounters a different medium or a change in the medium itself the wave or part of the wave gets reflected back. You have probably experienced echo at some point in your life. Echo is simply a sound wave that got reflected back as it encountered a different medium. The sound wave travels through air and reaches a wall. A wall is a different medium and so part of the wave gets reflected back. But here’s the important part: When moving from a medium of higher acoustic impedance to a medium of lower acoustic impedance part of a longitudinal wave will get reflected back AND it will also undergo a phase change. When that longitudinal compressive wave encounters the diverging section of the pipe it transitions from a higher density gas to a lower density gas, or from a medium with a higher acoustic impedance to a medium with a lower acoustic impedance. When this happens part of the compressive wave continues through the pipe but part of it gets reflected back to the cylinder as a negative pressure wave moving in the opposite direction. This negative pressure wave reduces pressure of the gas as it travels back to the cylinder, and of course it reduces pressure inside the cylinder when it reaches the cylinder. So there you have it the shape of the pipe allows us not just to suck in more air and fuel into the cylinder, but also keep that same air and fuel from escaping the cylinder. That's great, but we still have a problem. As you probably know the engine operates at a very wide range of rpm anywhere between 800 to 10.000 for engines like this 300cc single cylinder two stroke. But different engine rpm means different piston speeds and thus different duration of the intake, compression, combustion and exhaust events inside the engine. On the other hand the speed of the sound waves through the exhaust pipe is more or less constant…this means that we can only perfectly match the arrival of the sound waves at the cylinder over a small narrow rpm range A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Marwan Hassan11 Peter Della Flora Bashuan Allan McKay valkq Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips 00:00 The Problem with Two Strokes 04:25 Wave Basics 09:10 How It Works 17:33 Let's Hear it in Practice #d4a #2stroke

Support the channel by shopping through this link: https://amzn.to/3RIqU0u Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Become a member: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwosUnVH6AINmxtqkNJ3Fbg/join Grit: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCt3YSIPcvJsYbwGCDLNiIKA Link to the patent: https://patentcenter.uspto.gov/applications/18585308/ifw/docs?application= Just a few days ago news has surfaced on the internet that Porsche has patented a revolutionary new six stroke engine which according to them has the power benefits of a two stroke engine but the durabtility and emissions cleanliness of a four stroke engine. As you probably know traditional four stroke engines which powers virtually every combustion car, truck or motorcycle on the roads today gooes intake, compression, combustion and exhaust. Porsche new design adds one more combustion and more compression stroke into the mix and so the new engine goes: intake compression combustion compression combustion exhaust. This relies on 100% existing technology. Gears, rod, crank, piston. Even the ports which are known as scavenging ports are ancient. Btw, this very arrangement with ports on one side and valves on the other is known as uniflow scavenging. Because the flow goes in a uniform direction through the cylinder. And this is very common on two stroke diesels in ships and locomotives. The six stroke also don’t make any serious problems for the camshafts. Instead of rotating at half the crankshaft speed, the camshafts will now rotate at one-third the crankshaft speed, so we just need a slightly larger cam gear and we also need an additional lobe on the exhaust come and that’s pretty much it, nothing complex. So there are really no novel mechanics in this which means that it doesn’t need heavy investments into research and development to get it to market. It does make more power than a traditional four-stroke. If we observe the first 720 degrees of rotation we can see that we get only one combustion event, just like a traditional four-stroke. But if we observe the next 360 degrees we will see another combustion event starting at 720 degrees of rotation. This does not happen in the traditional four-stroke until we reach 1080 degrees of rotation. So if we observe let’s say 7200 degrees of rotation, the traditional four-stroke will perform 10 combustion events. The six stroke will perform 13.34 combustion events. So that’s 33.4% more power than a traditional four-stroke. Now, it’s definitely not in two-stroke territory because a two stroke will perform 20 combustion events in 7200 degrees of rotation and that’s 20 equal, proper combustion events. Remember, on the six stroke, every other combustion event is a mix of exhaust gas and air and fuel which means that we’re probably not looking at a power increase of 33.4% but likely something closer to 25%. But 25% more power with existing technology and emissions cleanliness and durability of a traditional four stroke is still a very significant improvement and a very clever and rational way towards more power. Something else this makes possible is to run very high boost pressure and still be relatively emissions-friendly. To run something like 3 bar boost pressure which is 45 psi you need to run very very rich. You make crazy power but you’re also sending some unburned fuel into the atmosphere which means crappy emissions. But in a six-stroke we would not send all that unburned fuel out. We would send just a bit of it out and the rest would be burned during the next combustion stroke. So potentially, big power and government approval. But why would Porsche patent this now if sales of new combustion vehicles will be banned starting with 2035 in the EU and I believe some other parts of the world.? Well, here’s the thing, the EU is not fully banning sales of new combustion vehicles starting with 2035. On the 25th of March of 2023 EU reached an agreement with Germany where it was agreed that sales of and registration of new ICE vehicles will be permitted after 2035, provided that those vehicles operate only on carbon-neutral fuels. So what this patent means is that Porsche is taking preventive measures to ensure that it can produce high-power and emissions-friendly engines that can still fit inside the back of a 911 in case e-fuel production ramps up before 2035. By patenting this design Porsche ensures that nobody else can implement it without paying fees to them. So will we see this engine in the future? Well, if e-fuel production does actually ramp up, I think it’s likely that Porsche will greenlight some sort of project. Will e-fuel be expensive? Probably. But I doubt that’s a major problem for Porsche buyers. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #porsche #sixstroke 00:00 How it works 08:34 Benefits 14: 34 Drawbacks 19:01 Why now?

Support the channel by shopping through this link: https://amzn.to/3RIqU0u Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Become a member: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwosUnVH6AINmxtqkNJ3Fbg/join Grit: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCt3YSIPcvJsYbwGCDLNiIKA Something that’s very important when it comes to rubber timing belts and that was beaten into the heads of mechanics, diyers and even consumers when belts started becoming widespread was that rubber belts must not be contaminated with engine oil. Oil will cause the rubber to swell up, delaminate, and crack which leads to premature belt failure. And belt failure results in catastrophic engine damage because it leads to a loss of timing synchronization between the camshaft and the crankshaft which means that the piston will hit and bend the valve on interference engines which requires an engine rebuild. This means that if you accidentally spill a significant amount of oil on your belt you should replace your belt. If you detect an oil leak that was also exposing the belt to oil…you should fix that leak and replace your belt. So after 40 years of being taught that oil and timing belts don’t mix almost everyone was surprised when Ford in late 2007 introduced an engine where the belt was exposed to engine oil ALL the time. Heck it wasn’t just exposed, part of it was actually submerged in engine oil. The engine in question is the Ford 1.8 tdci diesel engine. Before late 2007 the engine timing system consisted of a timing chain running from the crankshaft to the high-pressure diesel injection pump and a dry rubber timing belt running from the fuel pump to the camshaft. In late 2007 the timing chain was replaced with a rubber timing belt that was exposed to oil just like the timing chain was. But here’s the interesting thing, Ford did not only submerge the timing belt into something that was called a contaminant for 40 years it even increased the service interval because according to Ford the submersion of the belt in oil reduces belt wear. The dry belt was given a service interval of 160.000 km or 5 years whereas the wet belt was given a service interval of 200.000 or 10 years because according to Ford the wet belt benefited from additional lubrication. So before when you spilled oil on the belt the belt was considered contaminated, now the contaminant was considered a lubricant. Understandably many mechanics, engineers, journalists, and other members of the general public with a pinch of common sense and a basic understanding of physics and chemistry thought that Ford’s belt in oil system was a bad idea. In 2012 it became evident that Ford considered the new wet belt technology a success and a good idea because it was also introduced in the new 1.0 three-cylinder turbocharged EcoBoost engine which soon spread to the majority of models in Ford’s fleet. Other European manufacturers also considered Ford’s approach a success and a good idea because they started introducing it very soon after Ford. Renault was an early adopter of this technology as early as 2008 with their 1.5 DCI diesel engines. Wolkwagen put wet belts on their 1.5 tsi turbo petrol around 2010. Opel and Vauxhall did it on their 1.2 and 1.5 turbo petrol models around the same time. Peugeot also joined in with their 1.2 pure-tech 3-cylinder turbo petrol around 2013. It seems that everyone was after that 1% fuel savings. But today in 2024 we have more than enough data and reports to say with great certainty that wet belts are a stupid idea. Just like many mechanics, engineers, journalists, and other members of the general public with a pinch of common sense and a basic understanding of physics and chemistry claimed when the technology was first introduced. Wet timing belts have led to a great number of premature belt failures which have led to catastrophic engine failures costing owners thousands of euros. The vast majority of wet belts never made it anywhere near the recommended service interval of 200.000 km an above. Most required replacement at half that and there are reports of belts that have failed even before the vehicle reached 100.000 kilometers. But wait, we must not forget the 1% fuel savings!. The average European covers 13.000 kilometers with their vehicle every year. If we take the average fuel consumption to be 6.5 liters per 100 kilometers this gives us an annual fuel consumption of 845 liters and an annual cost of fuel of 1.521 EUROS. 1% of that is 15.2. This is how much money a wet belt saves the consumer every year. 15.2 Euros per year in exchange for the financial as well as environmental burden of thousands of prematurely failed engines A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #ecoboost #puretech

To try everything Brilliant has to offer for free for a full 30 days, visit https://brilliant.org/d4a/ . You'll also get 20% off an annual premium subscription. Support the channel by shopping through this link: https://amzn.to/3RIqU0u Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Become a member: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwosUnVH6AINmxtqkNJ3Fbg/join Grit: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCt3YSIPcvJsYbwGCDLNiIKA When you think of a rotary engine you probably think of a wankel engine, the kind of engine Mazda used to put in its coolest cars back in the day. They also recently put it in the MX30 REV, but this is some sort of plug-in-hybrid thing where the rotary engine performs the most humiliating task imaginable, it's a range extender. Now the important thing about the Wankel is that it was a success in terms of power-to-weight ratio and smoothness in terms of everything else it was a failure. Fuel economy, emissions, low rpm torque, longevity, it really didn’t do any of these things well. It was and still is a very fun and very exciting engine so we’re going to call it a beautiful failure A rotary engine is inherently superior in this regard because we need the output from the engine to be rotation. So that we can connect the engine to the transmission and the wheels, both of which are rotation. So if the internals of the engine are already based on rotation like the rest of the vehicle then we completely eliminate many problems, many parts and a lot of volume and mass. This is why, according to both physics and common sense the ultimate internal combustion engine should be a rotary engine. But it should not be a wankel. It should be a rotary vane engine. We essentially have a circle rotating inside an ellipse and we have four vanes extending in and out of the housing. As the vanes rotate they change the volume of the spaces they create. We have air coming in through the intake ports. As the vane rotates it pushes the air into an ever smaller space which of course compresses the air. When the air is fully compressed we add the fuel. And then we use a spark to ignite the air and fuel mixture. As the combusting mixture expands it pushes on the vane which rotates the internal circular rotor assembly creating rotational torque output. As the vane rotates further it pushes the exhaust out throught the exhaust port. We have four combustion events for one full 360 degree rotation of the circular rotor. In a wankel, we have one combustion event for one full rotation of the rotor and three rotations of the eccentric shaft. In a traditional four-stroke piston engine we need 2 full rotation or 720 degrees of crankshaft rotation for just 1 combustion event. This means that the rotary vane engine significantly outpowers both the Wankel and the traditional. But high power is just one of the features. It’s just one item on the list of benefits. Just like a Wankel engine the vane engine doesn’t need a cylinder head, crankshaft or rod and there’s no reciprocation. So we have a very powerful, very lightweight, very smooth and very compact engine compared to a piston engine. But the vane is even more simple and it’s even smoother than a wankel. Another benefit is that the vane engine isn’t just a powerhouse it is a torque monster and far better suited to creating massive low rpm torque than a piston or a rotary engine. In this regard too it’s very similar to an electric motor. We have two things that both the Wankel and the piston engine can only dream off. A giant and a constant lever arm. And our combustion force acting right at the end of that lever arm for maximum torque. The large distance from the vane which receives the combustion pressure and the center of the rotor where the torque output is means that even a small engine with a small rotor will have a very large lever arm and massive torque output. And this lever arm is constantly there, it does not move or change it’s position in relation to the combustion pressure force. And it is constantly present in the same position throughout the entire progression of the combustion event. This leads to a long-lasting and very broad torque spike throughout the entirety of the combustion event. And remember we don’t have to wait for 450 degrees of rotation for another combustion event. In a vane engine, the end of one combustion stroke is immediately followed by the beginning of another. We need a four-cylinder piston engine to achieve the effect of a single-vane rotor. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #rotary #rotaryvane

Support the channel by shopping through this link: https://amzn.to/3RIqU0u Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Become a member: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwosUnVH6AINmxtqkNJ3Fbg/join Sub-Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCt3YSIPcvJsYbwGCDLNiIKA The location of the holes. That's the only difference between a water gun and a shock absorber. Although they do very different things the squirt gun and the shock absorber work on the exact same operating principle This is the case because both water and oil are incompressible liquids and there are several factors at play here. The first one is of course the outlet hole or the nozzle. It is a restriction to flow and to overcome this restriction we must apply a force. The smaller the nozzle the greater the force required to push water through it. The second thing we must overcome is the internal friction or the viscous forces within the water. The greater the amount of water we are trying to push within the same period of time the greater the internal friction both between the molecules of the water and between the water and the walls of the pipe. The greater the friction the greater the force needed to overcome it And finally, we have to deal with increasing pressure. Water is an incompressible fluid which means that when we try to compress it its volume doesn’t change significantly but its pressure still increases and the greater the amount of water we are trying to move through the small nozzle the more the pressure of the water behind the nozzle increases. As this pressure increases it acts against the force of our hand so we must keep increasing our force exponentially if we want to increase the amount of water coming out Now everything we just described works absolutely the same for a shock absorber the only difference is that instead of expelling the liquid outside we move it from one side of the piston to the other. And instead of our hand creating the force we have bumps or other road imperfections. So the greater the bump and the faster we approach it the greater the force acting on the shock absorber. Of course, most vehicles are heavier than humans and are capable of moving at much greater speeds which is why they’re capable of producing much greater forces. This is why we run oil instead of water inside vehicular shocks. Oil is incompressible just like water so the same physics principles apply but oil is much more viscous in other words it has a much greater internal friction and a greater resistance to flow which is why we require a substantially increased force to move it from one side of the piston to the other. We can also manipulate other parameters of a shock absorber to make it capable of absorbing greater forces and more suitable for a particular application. For example, off-road applications tend to face great forces due to the very irregular terrain. This is why off-road shocks will usually have a greater stroke or the maximum top-to-bottom piston distance compared to shocks for regular road-going vehicles. A greater force acting on the shocks will push the piston further into the shock body. The greater the distance the piston can travel the greater the maximum force that the shock absorber can handle before bottoming out. A spring can compress when faced with a force so it can also absorb all kinds of forces by compressing more for greater forces and less for smaller ones….well yes that is technically true but a spring on its own is still kinda useless. Number one 1. Depending on the direction of how the force is applied and released the spring can easily bend side to side and in all sorts of funky ways. The shock anchors the spring and ensures that it can only move up and down. The other problem is that when springs release after being compressed they tend to oscillate. Or bounce up and down until it returns to its equilibrium or stable position. Of course, the only vehicle oscillations comfortable for vehicle occupants are the ones produced by them with all external oscillations of the vehicle being undesirable. And it is precisely these spring oscillations that are also absorbed by the shock absorber. So as you can see the the shock absorber and the spring make a perfect team. The shock absorber prevents the spring from moving side to side and from oscillating whereas the spring prevents the shock absorber piston from being stuck at the bottom of the shock body. But here’s one more, less evident problem, that we haven’t discussed and that is cavitation the greatest enemy of all shock absorbers. Cavitation can be best described as the appearance of air bubbles inside the oil. These bubbles will usually form during rapid piston movement and they can occur both during suspension compression and suspension extension. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #suspension #shocks

Support the channel by shopping through this link: https://amzn.to/3RIqU0u Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Become a member: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwosUnVH6AINmxtqkNJ3Fbg/join Sub-Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCt3YSIPcvJsYbwGCDLNiIKA Have you noticed that nowadays almost all tubes for tube type tyres are supplied with two nuts. But nobody tells you where to install the nuts. Booth outside the wheel? One under the other over the wheel? Tighten them down to the wheel or not? Throw the nuts away? There are zealous proponents of pretty much every approach possible. Recently I removed a used inner tube that I removed from a brand new Honda CRF300L, and from the factory, which is the indisputable temple of all knowledge and mechanical correctness installed it was installed like this: one nut bolted all the way down and inserted into the wheel like and then the other nut bolted onto the wheel to lock the valve stem to the wheel. Seeing as it came like this from the factory I assumed that is the correct way to do it so when I replaced the wheels that's how I put it back. But more recently it was time to replace the tubes too and so I bought a brand new Michelin reinforced tube and when I was replacing the tires and tubes I proceeded to do the usual one nut inside one nut outside. But it simply wouldn't work. I couldn't get the bead to seat no matter what I did and then I looked on the box of my brand new Michelin inner tube. And there, black on white, in beautiful clear as-day monochrome an image was proudly displayed. On that image both nuts were installed outside, seemingly locked to each other. No nuts inside to disturb the relationship between the valve stem and the hole in the rim. The valve stem can now go all the way in. So Michelin disagrees with Honda! Two temples of indisputable mechanical knowledge disagree with each other. But then I took my other box in which the inner tube for my rear wheel came and there I found a picture suggesting Honda's approach. So one of the temples of indisputable mechanical knowledge disagrees with itself as well? So I decided to dig and after digging and taking everything into account and employing common sense here is the resolution of the mystery: If you are riding on the street and you keep your tires inflated at the proper pressure than I agree with what is Michelin suggesting . Two nuts outside the wheel. The first nut is only finger-tight. That very important. Finger tight and nothing more. And then the second nut is used simply as a lock nut. You tighten them against each other which prevents either of them from becoming loose. This is the only purpose of the second nut. To make it possible to have a nut only finger tight on there. Without the second nut, the first nut would come loose. However if you are riding offroad and you occasionally deflate the tires to below the recommended air pressure in order to improve your traction and handling in challenging terrarins then you should not tighten a nut, finger tight or otherwise, to the wheel. Why? Because the tire and the wheel and the inner tube are not glued together. When you deflate the tire to a lower pressure you remove the force which is pushing against the tire and the wheel and keeping the tire, the wheel and the tube together. This means that the tire can shift or move on the wheel, it can rotate on the wheel, this is especially true if you have an engine capable of outputting high amounts of torque. When the tire rotates on the wheel it will pull the tube with it. When this happens the valve stem will be ripped off if it is bolted down to the wheel. If we there is no upper nut then the valve stem is given some room to move and get pulled inside before it rips off. This saves you from a flat and gives you a quick visual cue telling you that your tire has slipped. It allows you save the tube by deflating, pulling the valve stem back into the proper position and inflating the tire again. This is also why we put baby powder or corn starch inside the wheel during the installation of offroad tires. It reduces the friction between the tire and the tube and reduces the chance of the tire pulling the tube with it if it rotates. I’d also like to say that, I don’t really think that the KTM approach with no nut at all on the stem is the best approach. If there is no nut at all then the valve stem can be pulled completely into the wheel. The plastic cap will not prevent this from happening. And if the stem is pulled all the way in then you have no way of getting it out again unless you remove the wheel and the tire and reset everything. I think that a nut right under the cap is the best idea because it gives the valve stem the most breathing room while at the same time preventing it from being pulled into the tire completely. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #nuts #d4a

This is a video designed to save you countless hours of research if you want to understand turbo specs and features and if you're facing a dilemma when turbocharging a naturally aspirated engine or upgrading an already turbocharged engine. This video is aimed at persons who already have a basic understanding of the operating principles of a turbocharger and want to dive deeper and be able to confidently compare two different turbochargers and also understand how modifying different parts of a turbo such as the compressor or turbine wheel or the A/R of a compressor or turbine housing will impact performance. The video also explains various turbo features such as twin scroll, VGT (variable geometry turbo) as well as parts such as wastegate (internal and external) as well as actuators, bearings, and much more. This video also covers concepts such as blade design and aerodynamics, Boost Lag and Boost Threshold, and pressure ratio and explains how to easily and confidently read compressor maps. All super-condensed into just 35 minutes. Support the channel by shopping through this link: https://amzn.to/3RIqU0u Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Become a member: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwosUnVH6AINmxtqkNJ3Fbg/join Sub-Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCt3YSIPcvJsYbwGCDLNiIKA Here are the chapters and their time stamps: 00:00 A/R 04:18 Boost Threshold 05:55 Bearings 08:23 CHRA 09:07 Inducer and Exducer 13:15 Blade Design 16:00 Materials 17:16 Flange 19:00 Pressure Ratio 20:15 Surge 22:05 Compressor Map 26:50 Twin Scroll 28:47 Wastegate 31:21 VGT As you can see the chapters are not in true alphabetic order. Instead, the video prioritizes first the introduction of more simple concepts, that can be understood independently and then introduces more complex concepts and topics and explains how the previous, more simple concepts impact these more complex ones. For example, A/R is introduced first as it is simply the geometric expression of turbine or compressor housing size. Boost Lag and Boost Threshold is introduced after this and then it is explained how changes in A/R impact boost lag and boost threshold. The same thing goes for exducer and inducer sizes and trim calculations together with blade numbers, splitter blades and other turbo wheel features as well as compressor surge. The effects of these features and their changes are then demonstrated in the compressor maps section. The video does not explain how a turbo works, in case you need the fundamentals of the operating principles that's here: https://youtu.be/VpcdYvG0k9M Here's boost control explained in more detail: https://youtu.be/hYIL_XvlYTE Turbo flutter and blow-off valves in more detail: https://youtu.be/BFXIgME_5UA Practical video that shows everything that needs to be done to turbocharge an NA engine: https://youtu.be/gskkfFZXwzI I believe this video makes the Boost School series very comprehensive as I have now covered pretty much all the points of turbocharging and boost and cars. We have both the theoretical side as well as the practical side and all the key concepts have now been included, with key concepts such as turbo flutter, blow-off valves, boost control, twin-turbo (parallels, sequential, compound) receiving dedicated videos. Project Underdog covered all the practical sides, everything from turbo manifolds and required parts, to the installation itself as well as ECU wiring and basic ECU tuning.I even covered the history of turbocharging :) A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #boostschool

Koenigsegg just broke a world record with their Jesko Absolut hypercar. They managed to get from 0 - 400 kmh to 0 again in 27.83 seconds. I-ll let that sink in for a second. 0 - 400 kmh or 248mph was done in 18.82 seconds. That is less time than it takes the Honda Civic Type R, which is by no means a slow car to get to 200 km/h. This very record of 0-400-0 was taken from Koenigsegg in May of 2023 by the Rimac Nevera. that managed to do the feat in 29.93. Of course Koengisegg couldn’t let that stand so just a month later they took their hybrid hypercar Regera to a smoother runway put more extreme tires on it and posted a time of 28.81. That record stood until this week when the Jesko managed to do 27.83. Of course, the Koenigsegg Jesko costs 3 million dollars so this kind of performance is expected and this record would be just another feat of uber expensive hypercar upmanship if the previous two record holders were not a hybrid and a battery electric vehicle. The Jesko is not a hybrid, it has nothing but a mid-mounted internal combustion engine to drive the wheels and it has less power than both of the previous record holders. So how did the Jesko manage to beat the record? Wll if the answer was not more power, than it must be less mass. Because by having less mass to lug around you can accelerate and decelerate faster. And indeed the Jesko is 910 kilograms lighter than the Rimac and 200 kilograms lighter than the Regera. And how do you become lighter? By becoming more simple. For a hypercar of this day and age the Jesko is remarkably simple. Unlike the Rimac which has an electric motor on each wheel, the Jesko only drives the rear wheels. And it has no clever crankshaft mounted or wheel shaft mounted electric motors like in the Regera. There are no e-turbos either. The only battery is the 12 volt one and the Aero is inactive…no clever moving wings , just two solid fixed winglets in the back. Of course it still needs big power to achieve crazy speeds but the approach to power is kinda old school too. 5.0 liter flatplane V8 with two giant turbos and a remarkably low compression ratio for this day and age. Just 9:1. Why so low? So they could stuff 2.2 bar boost down the throat of each cylinder bank. And that’s it. Of course there’s all the carbon and the clever suspension and the uber clever transmission. But overall, compared to the previous record holders the Jesko adopts the approach of Less is More…an approach the rest of the auto industry, and even the world seems to have forgotten. The Jesko had a goal. The goal was more acceleration, reaching a top speed faster and them coming to a stop from that top speed more quickly. It achieved this goal by shedding everything that it didn’t need and perfecting everything it did need. The auto industry today, and many other industries also have a goal. At least they claim to have a goal. And that goal is the reduction of emissions. The reduction of our carbon footprint. So if our goal is to emit less of something, wouldn’t Jesko’s approach of less is more be applicable here? A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #Koenigsegg

Support the channel by shopping through this link: https://amzn.to/3RIqU0u Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Become a member: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwosUnVH6AINmxtqkNJ3Fbg/join Motivation: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCt3YSIPcvJsYbwGCDLNiIKA As you probably know internal combustion engines are not very efficient. On average modern gasoline engines in passenger cars manage around 35% whereas diesel versions can do a bit above 40% but need complicated and expensive emissions control equipment to be as clean as their gasoline counterparts. An efficiency of 35% means that of the energy present in the fuel only 35% gets converted into useful work. The rest is lost. Some of it is lost to internal friction but most of it actually escapes as heat and noise out through the exhaust. So why is so much energy lost? Why can’t we efficiently harness more of it? The problem we have here is that all four strokes of a four stroke engine are of equal length and duration and of those four strokes it is only the combustion stroke that produces significant energy. The remaining three strokes mostly just consume energy. This means that an engine would be more efficient if it was given more time to actually harness the energy. One of the ways to increase engine efficiency is to increase the compression ratio of an engine. A compression ratio is simply the ratio between the smallest and largest cylinder volume. But the positive effects of increasing the compression ratio are limited because we are limited in the amount of how much we can increase it. At some point space for combustion becomes so small that combustion occurs so close to the piston that too much energy is transferred too quickly which makes it hard for even the most robust engines to handle these shocks. So we are limited in what we can do with the compression ratio. That means that we must look for other ways to increase efficiency the ideal thing to do would be to make the strokes unequal. What we actually want to do is have the combustion aka the expansion stroke somehow be longer than the other strokes. Of course, the conventional rotating assembly does not permit different lengths for different strokes which is why James Atkinson decided to forego the traditional engine anatomy and created a new different engine anatomy that enabled the engine to have a noticeably longer combustion or expansion stroke. Even the inventor of the of the four stroke engine himself Nikolaus Otto saw the limits of his design and wanted to increase the time and space for the expansion and energy harnessing but Otto together with Gottlieb Daimler decided to take a different approach. Instead of creating a novel and unproven rotating assembly they decided to rely on existing engine anatomy. They simply added another cylinder to harness the remaining energy of the exhaust gas. Instead of letting exhaust gas go out into the atmosphere the high pressure cylinders would send it into the low pressure cylinder where the pressure remaining in the exhaust gas was used to drive the larger middle piston. So the outer cylinders operate like normal four stroke cylinders. Well all of that sounds great in theory but Otto and Gottlieb’s five stroke engine was a failure. It was commercialized but it suffered from poor performance and production was quickly discontinued. Probably because Gottlieb and Otto were working with technology from late 1800s. And so the design was abandoned but not forgotten. It laid dormant for 124 years until 2003, when it was awakened by Belgian engineer and inventor Gerhard Schmitz who patented a three-cylinder five-stoke engine which was virtually identical to Otto and Daimler’s design. Of course getting a patent for a theoretical concept is one thing. Getting that concept materialized into a working prototype is another. But here Gerhard Schmitz managed to convince a very serious company to turn his idea into reality. Ilmor engineering. Maybe you haven’t heard of them but Ilmor is nothing like any the newly sprung-up companies created around novel engine designs. Founded in 1983 by Mario Illien and Paul Morgan Ilmor engineering has been successfully designing and developing engines for Chevrolet in Indycar racing, for Sauber and Mclaren in Formula 1, they even competed in MotoGP. So when a company like this takes on the development of a novel engine design it definitely gives the design credibility and high hopes of reaching mass production. So Ilmor got busy and just 4 years later in 2007, we got a running prototype. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #fivestroke

Support the channel by shopping through this link: https://amzn.to/3RIqU0u Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Become a member: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwosUnVH6AINmxtqkNJ3Fbg/join Motivation: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCt3YSIPcvJsYbwGCDLNiIKA Have you ever wondered why diesel cars sales experienced a boom in Europe but nowhere else in the world? The traditional explanation is that this is a combination of consumer preference and tax incentives. Unfortunately, this is both untrue and an oversimplification and today I will tell you the full story behind Europe’s obsession with diesel vehicles. Our story begins way back in 1973, with the frist oil crisis which occurred the Organization of Arab Petroleum Exporting Countries or OPEC initiated a total oil embargo. The result was a shock and dramatic shortage of crude oil that caused the price of a barrel of oil and derived products to increase by 300% shortly after the embargo was put into place. The problem with the European oil processing industry in the years after the 1973 oil crisis was that they no longer had buyers for their heavy distillates because the energy generation and heating systems of Europe had transitioned to other sources. But oil refineries weren’t the only ones impacted by the oil crisis. Vehicle manufacturers also suffered because the dramatic increase in fuel prices lead to a dramatic decrease in car sales. So manufacturers sought to offer buyers more fuel efficient alternatives in the form of vehicles with diesel engines which are naturally more fuel efficient than their gasoline counterparts. The main reasons behind this being that diesel engines naturally operate at noticeably higher compression ratios, they don’t need a homogenous air fuel mixture and don’t require a throttle body to function which means that they can run at very lean air fuel ratios and don’t suffer from pumping losses. Faced with reduced taxation, improved fuel economy and better performance and driveability in the real world many buyers started started switching to diesel engined cars. If we look at the data it becomes obvious how dieselisation was never a matter of user preference or different tastes in Europe and the US or other countries. If we compare Japan and Europe we can observe very similar low rates of diesel share in the market. The markets only start diverging when European legislation started strongly favoring diesels and creating incentives for buyers. If we observe Europe on a country by country basis we can see that diesel adoption is highest in countries like France for example where legislation and taxation was very favourabnle for diesels. Diesel vehicle percentages remained noticeably lower where incentives were lower. But initially it appeared thst the mass dieselisation of the vehicle market was a win for everyone in Europe. Oil refineries got a market for their products. Consumers got better cars. Car makers got profits. C02 emissions got reduced. Almost sounds too good to be true. .Well pretty soon it became clear that it indeed all was too good to be true because as time moved on and emissions standards became more stringent it became evident that getting diesel engines to meet new emissions standards was far harder than it was originally envisaged by the Auto Oil 1 and 2 programmes. And so Manufacturers started reducing the compression ratio of diesel engines in order to reduce nitrogen oxide emissions. Which sort of defeats the purpose of a diesel engine because reducing the compression ratio also reduced efficiency and power output. To restore power manufacturers increased the boost pressure from the turbocharger which lead to increased C02 emissions which ultimately resulted in equivalent diesel and petrol engines having pretty much the same power output and the same C02 emissions. The difference being that the diesels had better fuel economy but also emitted more nitrogen oxides and particulate matter. But in 2015 it became evident just how far manufacturers were stretching the truth when it was discovered that VW had to cheat to meet US emissions tests. They reprogrammed their diesel vehicles to be able to detect when they are undergoing emissions testing and then run the engine in a reduced performance mode in order to generate reduced emissions and pass the test. When not being tested and driven in normal conditions the vehicles were actually emitting 14 times more nitrogen oxides then the allowable US limit and 3 times more than the Euro 5 emissions standard. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #diesel 00:00 Why so many Diesel cars in Europe? 01:02 Oil Crisis 03:38 Refineries have a problem 05:36 Oil prices go UP, Car sales go DOWN 08:51 Creating the Justification 11:30 Changing the Legislation 16:53 The Scandal 20:55 The Aftermath 24:23 Have We Learned Our Lesson?

Support the channel by shopping through this link: https://amzn.to/3RIqU0u Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Become a member: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwosUnVH6AINmxtqkNJ3Fbg/join Motivation: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCt3YSIPcvJsYbwGCDLNiIKA It's time to review another novel engine design and today we are going top inspect the Avadi MA 250 engine. As always I’ll explain what makes it special, how it works, the strengths and weaknesses of the design as well as the potential for it to enter mass production. So as you can see this is a rotary engine, but it’s not rotary in the way that a Wankel/Mazda rotary engine is. This is still piston based with the big difference between this and conventional engines being that here the entire cylinder rotates within a casing and we have two connecting rods and two crankshafts for one piston. The crankshafts are geared to a stationary ring gear. When I saw this engine for the first time the first thing that came to my mind was “hey this a big gyroscope. The cylinder spins in this direction, the crankshafts spin within it, kind of like a gyroscope. Ok that’s interesting….but why? There is no inherent benefit to making an engine cylinder together with the piston rotate around an axis so why do it? To understand why we must observe how is the cylinder spinning. The spinning is done via gears. Why gears? If you want to make something spin there are more efficient ways than gears. If we look at the Avadi website we will see they claim that the gears provide a reduction or torque increase for the engine. And yes this is of course true. All geared transmissions work on the same principle. If we take two gears. A small input gear and an output gear that is twice the size we will double our torque output. This is the same arrangement as in the Avadi engine the pinion gears on the crankshaft are half the size or half the number of teeth of the fixed ring gear. So if we imagine that have an input speed of 1000 rpm and 10 Nm of torque at the small gear than our output speed at the large gear will be 500 rpm and the output torque will be 20Nm. A gear that is twice as large halves speed and doubles torque. This happens because the larger gear has a greater circumference and therefore the distance from the teeth to the center is doubled. When we double this distance we double the leverage and thus the torque. The speed is halved because for every two revolutions of the small gear the large gear makes only one revolution, so we have a 2:1 gear ratio. So yes, the geared arrangement does increase torque as Avadi claims but this is NOT the reason why they implemented this solution. If they were interested only in torque then they could have done a 4:1 gear ratio and quadrupled the torque. So why 2:1? Think about it, what else has a 2:1 gear ratio, what else rotates twice for ever 1 rotation of the other things? Yes, that’s right! The crankshaft and camshaft in a conventional four stroke engine have a 2:1 ratio. The crankshaft rotates twice for every single rotation of the camshaft. Why? Because a four stroke engine needs 720 degrees to complete a full combustion cycle. Intake, compression, combustion and exhaust - each stroke is 180 degrees of crankshaft rotation and 4 x 180 equals 720. But during those 720 degrees you want to open the intake valve only once and you want to open the exhaust valve only once. You want the intake valve open only during the intake stroke and the exhaust valve open only during the exhaust stroke. To achieve that all you need is a 2:1 rotation ratio between the crankshaft and the camshaft. A 2:1 ratio means that 180 degrees of crankshaft rotation is only 90 degrees of camshaft rotation. So all you have to do is place your camshaft lobe in the correct position in relation to the crankshaft and the piston and your intake valve will be open only when you want it to be open. Now if we go back to the Avadi engine we will see that this engine has no camshafts, no valves, no springs no nothing but the four stroke rules still apply, with or without a camshaft. The Avadi engine has an incredibly simple valve train that essentially consists of only three holes. This is one of the main reasons why the engine is so compact and so light. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #enginebalance 00:00 How it Works 10:54 Engine Balance 17:17 Breathing Issues 22:67 Drones

In this video I do something I have never done before and that is to drive an EV (BEV, battery electric vehicle) more specifically a Tesla Model 3. In the video I share my genuine and honest first impressions, my frustrations with the touchscreen, charging attempts and cornering experience. I have to say that the driving was a lot more enjoyable than I imagined. Different but not that different. Some things, mostly related to the user interface were definitely not as enjoyable and were even frustrating. The goal of the video was to share honest and genuine feelings and impressions through the eyes of a petrolhead so that other petrolheads can get a relatable second hand experience of EV driving. I also have to say that I'm ashamed the Internet almost managed to convince me into thinking that I must pick a side. Choose one over the other. Stand against EVs because I'm a petrolhead. I realized that I started to dislike these cars without ever having tried them. I started getting on a bandwagon and I think that's stupid and it does nothing other than rob me of new experiences. There's no reason to pick sides. It's just a car. We only live once so I think it's better to taste and try everything rather than argue about things. It's better to appreciate the incredible diversity of this interesting time we live in. Thanks for watching. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips 00:00 Interface frustrations 10:05 Frunk adventures 12:30 Does it do a burnout? 13:25 Card Rejected 18:06 Cornering #d4a #tesla

Water Injection system used in the video: https://www.snowperformance.eu/en/water-injection/boost-cooler-stage-2 How Water Methanol (or Ethanol) injection works: https://youtu.be/z7CuQNvk6rg This video is a detailed step-by-step tutorial on how to install, configure and tune your engine for a water methanol injection kit. This video covers the following: Hardware install, Wiring, Nozzle position selection, Nozzle sizing, ECU tuning, I will be installing the Snow performance Stage 2 kit but almost everything you will see in this video applies to other kits from other manufacturers as well as DIY kits. The first thing we will install is the tank or reservoir. You can install this anywhere but I recommend that you install it somewhere far away from heat as well as road debris. Usually, the car’s trunk works well for this. To install the tank you just need find or provide four studs or bolt holes and bolt it down. I used two existing holes in my trunk and made another small bracket for the remaining two mounting points. Before you install the tank make sure to install the outlet nozzle which will feed water to the pump. All threads in this kit are self-sealing NPT threads so they don’t really need any sort of sealant but I prefer to install them with a bit of sealant. The Snow Performance kit comes with the correct sealant for this application. Something else this kit has is a fluid level warning sensor that tells you when the tank is about to run dry. This is optional and you don’t have to install it but I think it’s a nice useful feature. The fluid level sensor is connected to a little warning light that you install in the interior of your vehicle. The light flashes red when the water level is low. Next, it’s time to install the pump. The pump can be installed both in a horizontal or vertical position but it must be installed close to the tank and the inlet nozzle of the pump must be below the level of the outlet nozzle of the tank so that the water drains easily into the pump without the pump having to suck the water up. Both the tank and the pump should be installed below the level of the intake manifold of the engine where the water-methanol mix will be injected. If you’re running a turbo or a centrifugal supercharger, then you can not install the nozzle into the turbo intake because the high-speed water and methanol droplets can erode the leading edges of your compressor wheel. If you’re running a screw type or roots supercharger then you should install the nozzle before the supercharger. This is the ideal nozzle location for such applications. This means that in turbocharged, intercooled applications such as mine, the nozzle should be installed after the intercooler but before the throttle body. Once everything is installed we can proceed with the tuning. The first step with the tuning is to set your injection timing. This is set on the little display and it is absolutely detrimental to the performance of your system. There are only two things you can set, the start time of the injection and the end time of the injection. The rule of thumb is to set the injection start time at about 40% of your maximum boost pressure. So if you’re running 1 bar or 14.5 psi of boost then you will set injection start time at 0.4 bar and end time at 1 bar. In general, if you choose an overly large nozzle or too early of an injection timing you will notice a power loss because of water injection. The overly large amount of water mist coming in too soon negatively impacts the combustion flame front and kills power. If you experience a power loss or measure it on a dyno after installing the water-methanol system then you can start by setting the injection timing later. If that doesn’t help you will likely have to go to a smaller nozzle. Alternatively, you can increase your boost pressure and ignition timing even further because the power loss tells you that there is now ample space to safely add more boost and timing. Once you’re done with boost pressure you can play with the timing. This is my ignition timing map and for example, you can see that at peak boost I’m running relatively conservative timing. This is adequate timing without water-methanol injection but it’s actually conservative with water-methanol injection. Increasing timing by a few degrees here can easily gain another 10, 20 or likely even more horsepower. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips 00:00 Table of Contents 00:53 Hardware Install 04:20 Wiring and Pump Priming 05:40 Nozzle Location 08:09 Nozzle Sizing 08:59 Injection Timing 11:36 ECU Tuning 14:26 Water Injection Causes Rust? #d4a #boostschool

Water Injection system used in the video: https://www.snowperformance.eu/en/water-injection/boost-cooler-stage-2 Here we have a tank. We are going to put this tank in the car and fill it with water. Here we have a pump. This pump will take water from the tank, pressurize it, and send it to this little nozzle which will inject the water inside the engine. How does injecting water make more power? Water is an incompressible incombustible liquid after all. What you have to understand is that the water itself isn't what's making the power. The water inside the engine is enabling the engine to run a more aggressive tune and it works because we’re making the engine sweat on the inside. I know this sounds stupid but I’m not making this up. To understand the concept behind water injection inside the engine you have to understand why you sweat? You sweat when you are hot. When you sweat water appears on your skin. As this water evaporates you cool down. You cool down because water has a very high heat of vaporization. In more simple terms water absorbs massive amounts of energy in the form of heat from its surroundings as it transitions from a liquid to a vapor. This is why if you are much colder when you are wet. Water is taking away massive amounts of heat from your body as it vaporizes and your body struggles to maintain a normal body temperature and you start shivering. With our nozzle, we are injecting a fine mist of water into the engine. As it vaporizes inside the engine it takes away a massive amount of heat from inside the engine. This is a very good thing because excess heat is the ultimate killer of power and efficiency inside an engine. Most gasoline engines, especially those with turbo or superchargers, are limited by knock or pre-ignition. Knock and pre-ignition are NOT the same thing. Pre-ignition occurs before the spark plug fires when the piston is going up. Pre-ignition usually destroys an engine very quickly and it can easily burn a hole through a piston. Knock occurs after the spark plug fires when the piston is going down. Knock can be anything from very mild with minimal damage to very destructive. Excess heat inside the engine is the main prerequisite for both pre-ignition and knock. So with ethanol and water in the mix I not only reduced the heat in the chamber but I also increased my resistance to knock and this allowed me to do two things. 1. Increase my boost pressure and 2. Increase my ignition advance. Increasing boost pressure of course increases power but it also introduces additional heat into the system leading to an increased risk of knock. But I can re-introduce heat into the system because I have taken away a lot of heat with water-ethanol injection. Increasing ignition advance can also increase power but it too increases pressure and heat in the chamber and leads to an increased risk of knock. It is here that the increased knock resistance of ethanol helps the most. What I should is that I could have perhaps achieved an even higher power output by running methanol instead of ethanol because methanol has an even richer air-fuel ratio for peak power and an even higher heat of vaporization but methanol is toxic and cannot be legally purchased by individuals in most countries in Europe so I went with ethanol which is very close in performance and isn’t toxic But wait there’s more. With water ethanol injection I don’t have to worry about carbon buildup inside my engine. The vaporized solution acts sort of like a steam cleaner and keeps things inside the engine carbon deposit-free. So as you can see water-ethanol injection has many many benefits….so the question is why aren’t cars running this from the factory? Well, the answer is simply because it’s an added cost and complexity but I think that almost every turbocharged car can benefit from a system like this. Many modern cars have small turbocharged engines in the range from 1 to 1.6. liters achieving anywhere from 120 to 300 horsepower. To get this much power these engines have to run pretty high boost pressure. When you put such an engine in stop-and-go traffic in hot weather things get very hot very quickly and I’m sure that if you own such an engine you have experienced how in such conditions these engines are unable to reach anywhere near their advertised fuel efficiency. This is because they only have air and gasoline to work with and when things get hot and they register a little bit of knock they have no other choice but to cool themselves by dumping extra gasoline into the chamber. This means reduced fuel efficiency and reduced power output. Adding water injection alone could improve power and efficiency for these engines. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips 00:00 The setup 03:30 Why it works 10:47 Gasoline vs Ethanol 14:54 Tuning 19:57 What really happened at the dyno #d4a #boostschool

Four stroke engines, which is what 99% of the engines on the road are, need to let air in during intake. The combustion chamber must be sealed during compression and combustion and we must let air out during the exhaust. This means that we need a system that can seal and unseal the chamber thousands of time per minute while at the same time withstanding the incredibly harsh conditions present in the combustion chamber. And this is exactly what poppet valves do. They are great at sealing the chamber because the conical shape of the valve face fits into the conical shape of the valve seat creating a positive seal. Both the face and seat are made of hardened metals which offer impressive resistance to wear and increased temperature. As compression or combustion pressure acts on the valve head it actually pushes it harder against the countersunk seat. The greater the pressure the better the seal. Unfortunately other than being great at sealing the chamber poppet valves realistically don’t have any other inherent advantages. From an engineering perspective we could even say they are a necessary evil that we managed to make reliable only with a lot of technological advancements. Did you know that back in the 50s and 60s one of the reasons why fuel was leaded is to protect the valve seats. The intense hammering of the valve against the seat under high temperature would cause microwelds between the two and as the valve opened again these welds would tear eventually leading to valve seat recession or failure. It is only when we started to phase out leaded fuel that valve seats began to become more reliable and longer lasting. Valve springs are also a problem. At very high rpm the camshaft is trying to open and close the valve so fast that the spring simply can’t keep up. So instead of fully closing and opening the valve tends to float around the seat leading to a loss of power or even to contact between the valve and the piston in an interference engine. Valve float used to be such a limiting factor on engines that Ducati came up with the complex and maintenance-heavy desmodromic valve system just to get rid of the valve spring. Koengseeg came up with the extremely complex freevalve system to get rid of the camshafts. But engineers persisted, they improved valve spring designs and materials and we got engines with valve springs that can rev to the moon. They pushed even further and invented variable valve timing and lift systems that can do almost anything that Freevalve can. And so the poppet valve stayed with us. But the big problem that no amount of technology can ever eliminate is that poppet valves are an impediment to airflow. But we got around this too. We created clever intake manifolds with variable lengths and clever resonances to ram the air past the valve. We created forced induction in the form of super and turbochargers to stuff more air into the chamber. We created long and complicated exhaust manifolds to help suck the exhaust gas out of the chamber. When you think about it a lot of the development of the internal combustion engine is actually an effort to work around the valve. To overcome its limiting factors. If you observe an engine you will see that the cylinder head and the intake and exhaust manifolds actually take up more space than the heart of the engine which is the engine block, where the crankshaft, pistons, and rods are. We need more space for the breathing equipment of the engine and we need it because the poppet valve makes breathing hard. But what if there was a better way? What if we simply got rid of the valve instead of trying to constantly work around it. Of course many engineers asked this question throughout they yerars and they did indeed come up with many alternatives. One of the more elegant and promising alternatrives is called a rotary valve Instead of a poppet valve, valve seat, spring, retainer, rocker arm, lifter and camshaft all we have is a rotating barrel with cavities. As the barrel rotates the cavities in the barrel line up with cavities in the head to let air in and out of the engine. There is no valve spring we need to overcome so this system does not drain the energy of the engine to operate which means more power and more efficiency. And because there is no valve spring there can never be any valve float at any rpm, achieving ridiculous rpm is much easier now. This system is also very simple and it has much less moving parts which means a very low chance of failure and reduced engine size and weight. So it’s better in every way than the poppet valve….ok…..where is it then? If it’s better in every way then why have we been using the poppet valve for the past 100 years and not this? A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a

Support the channel by shopping through this link: https://amzn.to/3RIqU0u Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Become a member: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwosUnVH6AINmxtqkNJ3Fbg/join Today we're doing an in-depth video about the EGR or the exhaust gas recirculation system. We are going to talk about the history and evolution of these devices, their operating principle, their difference in petrol/ gasoline and diesel engines, their benefits, drawbacks, real-world problems, and more. By the end of this video, you will have a firm grasp of this important and often very misunderstood engine component and you will be able to make an educated decision on whether you should delete it or not. So instead of me feeding you over-generalized subjective opinions and telling you what to do today I’d like to empower you with knowledge so that you can decide yourself and I’d appreciate it if, after watching the video, you tell me what kind of conclusion you have reached. So let’s start with the history. Why were EGR systems invented? As you probably know they were invented to reduce emissions but what’s important is to understand which emissions specifically EGR devices are concerned with and they’re concerned with Nox or nitrogen oxides. Now nitrogen oxides form whenever we create a sufficiently high temperature. To create nitrogen oxides all you need is heat and nitrogen and oxygen. As we know the air we breathe in or the atmosphere of the earth in which we live in mostly consists of nitrogen and oxygen. And whenever we have heat in the presence of these two we create Nox or nitrogen oxides. So what do you think is one of the greatest sources of nitrogen oxide emissions? Believe it or not, it’s lightning storms. Yes. A very natural thing. The temperature of a lighting bolt is 28.000 Celsius or 50.000 Fahrenheit and lightning storms of course occur in the atmosphere where we have nitrogen and oxygen. But here’s the catch. Lightning storms are something temporary, they don’t occur continuously in the same location and most lighting bolts are between clouds or within a cloud which means that most nox emissions from lightning storms occur 4-5 kilometers above the earth’s surface. On the other hand vehicle transportation is continuous and concentrated mostly in urban areas. Engines create hot combustion whenever they are operational and vehicles travel on the surface which means that they can dramatically increase continuous local concentration of Nox emissions. Nitrogen oxides react with other elements and form smog and acid rain. But their impact isn’t limited to the environment. Nitrogen oxides are primarily composed of NO which is nitric oxide and No2 which is nitrogen dioxide. Of these two nitrogen dioxide is the one that creates serious health concerns for humans as it negatively impacts respiratory health and causes an increased number of asthma cases as well as other lung and respiratory-related diseases. The problem we have is that the more heat and pressure we create the greater the amount of nitrogen dioxide we create. Interestingly enough, one of the first major contributors to increased nitrogen dioxide emissions from engines were early catalytic converters, a device designed to reduce emissions. Early catalytic converters were mostly concerned with converting carbon monoxide to less harmful carbon monoxide and burning unburned fuel or unburned hydrocarbons. The problem was that back in the late 70s when these early catalytic converters became relatively widespread manufacturers prioritized performance over emissions. Hence, engines ran much richer or with more excess fuel than today. The high amount of unburned fuel riching the catalytic converter led to a very high reaction rate inside the converter which resulted in very high temperatures of the converter. These high temperatures than made the catalytic converter itself a source of nitrogen oxide emissions. However, manufacturers soon improved the design of catalytic converters and resolved these issues. The actual major source of nitrogen oxides is the technological advancement of the engines themselves. Increased compression ratios as well as the advent of widespread forced induction have increased the amount of heat and pressure inside the combustion chamber. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #egr #diesel 00:00 Video contents 00:48 History and Purpose of EGR 06:48 How EGR Works 11:34 Pumping Losses 12:16 Diesel Problems 15:51 EGR and PCV 20:42 I Blame the Government 22:00 I Blame the Manufacturers 23:38 I Blame the Users 26:37 I Blame "Tuning" Shops 29:27 EGR Reduces Engine Life?

Turbofan model from the video: https://www.enginediy.com/products/1-20-turbofan-engine-diy-assembly-turbofan-frighter-ws-15-engine-model-kit-150-pcs?ref=d4a Turbojet model from the video: https://www.enginediy.com/products/1-3-turbojet-engine-model-kit-build-your-own-turbojet-engine-that-works-wp-85-turbojet-diy-aircraft-engine-model-100-pcs?ref=d4a Use code "d4a" to get 10% off on anything here: https://www.enginediy.com/?ref=d4a Support the channel by shopping through this link: https://amzn.to/3RIqU0u Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Become a member: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwosUnVH6AINmxtqkNJ3Fbg/join In our last video on jet engines, we have learned that just like piston engines jet engines do intake, compression, combustion, and exhaust but the big difference is that in piston engines these events occur one after the other in every cylinder whereas in a jet engine, these events occur continuously, all the time and they occur simultaneously with each other. In this video, we will explore how jet engines have evolved to become much more powerful and much more efficient. Now this engine is called a turbojet and by modern standards, this is very much obsolete. This right here is a turbofan, or more specifically a low by-pass turbofan, and an engine like this is nowadays most commonly found on fighter jets and other military aircraft. As you can see, even upon first glance, the engine is pretty different from our turbojet. Now the first, and most important difference is that in a turbojet, all the thrust generated by the engine comes from the exhaust stream, or the jet of expanding gasses coming out of the back. In other words, all the air that comes through the front of the engine ends up inside the core which houses all the key mechanical components of the engine. But in a turbofan, this is not the case. Not all the air ends up in the core, some of the air is bypassed around the core and never contacts the internal parts of the engine. So why would we bypass some of the air around the engine? Well to understand that we must remember that jet engines are also called reaction engines. Essentially they move incredible masses of air. This movement creates a force. And as we know for every force there is a reaction force in the opposite direction. This reaction force moves the engine and because the engine is attached to the aircraft the entire aircraft moves. This tells us that to travel faster and/or to move a larger heavier aircraft we must move greater masses of air. To move a greater mass of air we can either move more air or we can move the air faster. A turbofan engine exploits the first concept and that is to move more air. Now we have two kinds of turbofans, a high bypass and a low by-pass turbofan. When a civilian like you or me flies in a commercial aircraft we are propelled through the sky by a high by-pass turbofan. A high bypass turbofan takes the concept of moving more air to the extreme because at the very front of the engine, we will find a giant fan. This is where the name comes from, turbofan. We have a giant fan and gas turbines at the back which harness the energy of the combustion and thus power the fan. Now because the fan is so large it is capable of moving absolutely incredible amounts of air and about 80% of the thrust of the engine actually comes from the fan and only around 20% comes from the exhaust jet coming out of the back of the engine. Because most of the thrust comes from the fan it means that we don’t have to burn ridiculous amounts of fuel to move the aircraft. Modern fans are designed to be extremely efficient at cruising speeds and altitudes of commercial aircraft. The added benefit of the is that the bypassed air creates a sheath of air around the exhaust jet and this greatly reduces the noise pollution created by modern commercial aircraft. But unfortunately moving more air has its limits. You can’t make infinitely large fans because the greater the size of the fan the greater the difference in speed between the blade root and the blade tip, because the tip covers a much greater distance than the root. In other words, an overly large fan will inevitably achieve supersonic speeds at the blade tips and this leads to inadequate and inefficient operation. This is where low bypass turbofan engines like this one come in. Their bypass ratio is around 0.5 to 1 compared to the bypass ratio of commercial turbofans which is usually 9:1 and above. A bypass ratio of 9:1 tells us that for every kilogram of air going through the engine core 9 kilograms of air go around it. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #jetengine 00:00 Moving More Air or Moving it Faster 02:36 High Bypass vs Low Bypass 07:56 More Shafts More Efficiency 11:14 Gyros and Ducatis

Support the channel by shopping through this link: https://amzn.to/3RIqU0u Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Become a member: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwosUnVH6AINmxtqkNJ3Fbg/join I think this video can be seen as a bit of a 1 million sub special as it's sort of a recap of many things, but I think it's also much more than that so I have left the title as is. The other option for the title was: "Solving First World Problems with expensive toys" P.S. I know I spoke about a potential sub-channel. But I decided, at least for now, that there won't be a sub-channel at all. I thought about this a lot and after finally managing to become realistic I have realized that there's no way I can do two good channels, I'll just dilute everything. This channel has always been a product and reflection of my passions and interests and if these interests and passions change slightly then the channel should reflect that. So what will actually happen is that I'll just drop 2-3 good motorcycle-themed videos per year on the main channel instead of 12 garbage ones on a sub-channel. Hope that makes sense. P.P.S. Brock was a bit of a sex offender now that I think about it... P.P.P.S Most of the video was filmed in Northern Portugal. The parts with the NX250 are in Bosnia and Herzegovina A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a

Fortnine's video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qn9JrN1JERI&t=1s time stamp is 07:26 Today I'd like to correct a mistake in a video made by one of my absolute favorite channels on youtube, and that is Fortnine, who produce some of the best motorcycle content out there, so before we continue Id like to say that this video is in no way meant to diminish the credibility of the fortnine channel or in any way tarnish their reputation. We all make mistakes, I make mistakes, universities, governments, scientists, you, everyone else. To err is human. But I believe it is important to identify, correct and learn from our mistakes. So let's see where the problem is and learn about inline two cylinder engines in the process. In their video Fortnine make the following claims: A 285 inline twin cylinder engine has better secondary balance than a 270 degree inline twin They imply that because of this better balance of the 285, Phil Irving, who can be called the father of the crossplane inline twin engine, originally proposed the 285 offset and not the 270 And finally number 3. They claim that manufacturing 285 degrees offset inline twins iis more expensive and that KTM is the only company that builds 285 inline twin engines because ….. Unfortunately all of these claims are wrong. First let us address the balance. In every reciprocating piston engine that is composed of a crankshaft, connecting rod and piston we have two types of balance to worry about. Primary balance and secondary balance. Primary imbalances are created by the piston. Secondary imbalances are created by the rod. If we plot the forces generated by a piston on a graph where force magnitude is the y axis and engine rotation degrees are the x axis we have peak upward force at top dead center and peak downward force at bottom dead center. This force shakes the engine up and down as it’s running and to restore primary balance all we need is another piston offset by 180 degrees from the frist piston. The forces of the piston can now cancel each other out and this is the logic we find behind a 180 degree inline twin. Next tup we’re going to explain secondary forces and balances. Now the singular culprit behind secondary engine imbalance is the connecting rod and the fact that the relative length of the rod changes in relation to the distance between the piston and the crankshaf. Now the absolute length of the rod of course, hopefully stays the same but as we can see when the engine is at top and bottom dead center the rod is fully upright when the engine is at 90 and 270 degrees of rotation the rod is fully angled. Now a fully upright rod is longer in relation to the piston and crankshaft than a rod full angled. This means that as the rod transitions from fully upright to fully angled it pulls the piston down by an additional little distance, this distance equals the difference in height between the rod fully upright and the rod fully angled. This additional distance, this action of the rod on the piston is what causes the piston to reach peak velocity before 90 degrees of rotation. Because moving from 0 to 90 degrees the rod is becoming shorter so it pulls the piston down. First primary balance. In a 270 degree twin we have 270 or 90 degrees of offset between piston 1 and piston 2. So as piston 1 is at top dead center piston 2 is at 90 degrees of rotation. This means that piston 1 is exerting a maximum upward force whereas piston 2 is at peak velocity and is exerting zero force. So we have maximum upward force on one side of the engine. Now in the case of the 285 engine when piston 1 is at tdc the other piston will be 75 degrees after tdc, so just 15 degrees before peak velocity. In other words piston is not at zero, it is still producing a small upward force. Which means that the engine as a whole produces an upward force which is overall greater in the case of the 285 because the other piston is also producing a small upward force. So the 285 has a worse primary balance compared to the 270. Now secondary balance. First the 270 twin. Piston 1 is at tdc, rod is fully upright, so we have upward secondary force on piston 1. Piston 2 is at 90 degrees, rod fullz angled, so we have a downard secondary force. The two forces of equal magnitude and opposite direction cancel out. Now in the 285 twin when piston is at tdc and exerting and upward secondary force piston 2 is at 75 degrees so it’s not exerting a maximum downard secondary force. In other words the secondary force of piston 2 is not sufficient to fully cancel out the force of piston 1 and we have secondary vibrations. The 285 degree twin does not have better secondary balance than the 270 degree twin, it has a worse secondary balance. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #enginebalance

I’ll be honest with you. I’m very surprised by the interest and enthusiasm that this engine generated. But the interest and enthusiasm is obviously there and it doesn’t seem to be going away and that tells me that it’s time for someone to pour a big ol’ bucket of depressing reality to extinguish all that wonderful youthful enthusiasm. And I decided that someone will be me. So let’s get started. I’ll say it right off the bat. This is a very creative and out of the box design. However being creative, does not necessarily mean that it is capable of penetrating the vehicular market or revolutionizing anything. The first patent related to this engine is from 1974 and the inventor Eduardo Taurozzi worked on the engine and promoted it throughout the 70’s, 80s and 90s and since then it has never been mass produced in a vehicular application, not even a small or limited production. 1974 was 50 years ago. That is half a century. If development started 10 or even 20 years ago there would still be hope, because getting new designs to the market usually takes a lot of time and research and development and fighting to prove their merit and so on and so forth. But 1974 is telling us with great certainty that we will not be seeing this in a mass produced car or motorcycle, probably ever. But it’s very important to understand the following. The friction between the piston, essentially the piston skirt and the cylinder is very very small in a conventional engine. Remember we’re not speaking about the piston rings here. This engine still has piston rings to contain the air fuel mixture and the combustion in the combustion chamber and these rings are still a source of friction, a much greater amount of friction than the friction between the piston skirt and the cylinder walls. There is no contact between the piston skirt and the cylinder walls. Contact between the two is prevented because a layer of oil is constantly splashed and/or sprayed onto the cylinder wall and the piston skirt then rides on this film of oil. the piston skirt does still subject the cylinder wall to significant loads. When combustion occurs the major thrust side of the piston places a significant load on the cylinder wall. Load is placed here because of the position of the rod and the crankshaft in relation to the piston. The load of combustion acts normally on the piston and it’s pushing it down. But the rod is angled, the wrist pin is right under the center of this load whereas the rest of the rod is offset from the center of the load. The result is that the rod is trying to flip over. As it’s trying to flip over it pushes the major thrust side of the piston into the wall, However oil is great at resisting loads and if the engine is working as it should this load can never disperse or break apart the film of oil and the piston skirt and the cylinder wall never make contact. However, this load still creates friction and it’s the reason why cylinders wear oval over the life of the engine. But remember, the life of the average engine in a car is around 300.000 kilometers. Uneven cylinder wear is a problem that has been solved long ago. It does not shorten the life of the engine. So let’s address the claim, 30% reduced fuel consumption. The friction that stems from the entire piston assembly accounts for around 45% of the entire frictional losses of the engine. Frictional losses account for only 10-15% of the overall losses of the engine. If we completely eliminate the piston related friction than we have eliminated only 45% of this 15%. That means that we have reduced overall efficiency only by 6.75%. But of course it’s not 6.75 because we have been massively over-optimistic here. Our hinge does not eliminate the piston rings and it does not eliminate the wrist pin. So it does not eliminate the 45% friction. Of this 45% piston skirt friction accounts for 12.5% percent, rings are around 22.5% percent and the wrist pin is the remaining 10%. We eliminate the piston skirt friction, let’s assume that we reduce ring friction by half since we get rid of the oil control ring pack and we eliminate piston rocking. We don’t really do anything about the wrist pin. So the hinge more realistically eliminates something like 21.25% of the total friction, not 45%. And this gives us a total potential efficiency increase and fuel consumption reduction of 3.2%. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips 00:00 2 solutions, 3 problems 02:41 Skirt friction 08:29 30% more efficient? 11:09 Sealed bearings 16:16 Balance and manufacturing 20:57 Ring torture

Support the channel by shopping through this link: https://amzn.to/3RIqU0u Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Become a member: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwosUnVH6AINmxtqkNJ3Fbg/join In today’s video we will discuss rear mount / remote mount turbo setups, so engine in the front turbo in the back. We will analyze their benefits, their drawbacks, we will see if they are actually a stupid idea and along the way we will hopefully learn some important lessons and bust some turbocharging myths. So let’s start by answering the most obvious question…why would someone want to mount a turbocharger far away from the engine? Usually the primary motivator for a remote mount turbo is space. Sometimes it is very difficult to find space for a turbocharger in the engine bay of a car that came naturally aspirated from the factory. And even when you can find the space you might require a one-off complex custom exhaust manifold if you’re working with a platform that doesn’t have sufficient aftermarket support or if you’re doing an engine swap. If you don’t have the fabrication equipment and skills such an exhaust manifold can become a very expensive item on your parts list. And even if you find the space for the turbo the location might be less than ideal and require complex routing of the intake piping and exhaust downpiping which may negatively impact performance. On top fo this a turbocharger is a major source of heat and the space you find for it may negatively impact the components around the turbo leading to a reduced lifespan of these components. A remote mount turbo is sort of a path of least resistance towards solving these problems. There almost always plenty of space somewhere along the underside of the car, even more so at the back so finding space for one or even two turbos here is not an issue. A remote turbo is also a one stone two birds affair because it eliminates heat problems. By locating the turbo away from the engine bay we save the engine from the added heat and we also help the turbo itself to run cooler. Companies and individuals who specialize in remote mount setups and have completed such projects usually report turbine side or hot side temperatures of the turbo to be lower by around 300 degrees celsius. This is a pretty significant difference in temperature which helps the turbo last longer and makes cooling the turbo less important. In other words it becomes feasible to run a turbo that isn’t water cooled, instead it can be oil cooled only. This reduces cost and simplifies install. Of course, you can still definitely run a water-cooled turbo in a remote mount setup, there is no harm in even better turbo cooling. But it gets even better. The remote location of the turbo doesn’t just save the engine bay from the added heat, it actually positively impacts performance. If a turbo runs cooler than it doesn’t heat the intake air as much. On top of this we have as much as a car’s length of intake piping that’s exposed to fresh air passing along it which means that the intake air gets cooled even more before it gets to the engine. Cooler air is denser and denser air means that we can stuff in more air mass into the same volume which means more power. Now this cooling effect isn’t as significant as that of an intercooler so ditching the intercooler isn’t a smart idea in my opinion, instead this is added cooling simply further improves performance and helps prevent knock which means that, all else being equal, we can potentially run a higher compression ratio in the engine than with a turbo mounted near the engine. So, it costs less because you don’t need a fancy exhaust manifold, it reduces heat and it improves performance. As you might be guessing things can’t be all good, there must be downsides. The biggest downside of a rear mount turbo setup is that it allegedly leads to massive amounts of turbo lag. And apparently this occurs because now the turbo has to pressurize an entire car’s length of piping. This requires time and we experience this time delay as turbo lag or reduced responsiveness of the engine, in other words a car with a rear mounted turbo will feel lethargic and sluggish due to the crazy lag. This is simply not true and I believe that this idea that a rear mounted turbo creates massive lag comes from a mis-understanding of how a turbo actually works and how it increases engine performance. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips 00:00 Benefits 04:38 Turbo Lag 12:29 Boost Threshold 17:22 Oil return, noise, damage #d4a #boostschool

Rod Ratio: https://youtu.be/C_YNn3ZkJmU Support the channel by shopping through this link: https://amzn.to/3RIqU0u Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a I have also just launched memberships, you can join by cliking JOIN below any of the videos. Some of the perks are early access to videos, voting on future topics, behind the scenes, bloopers, etc. Here we have two engines. This one is oversquare it's bore is twice as large as it's stroke giving is a bore to stroke ratio of 2. The other engine is undersquare it's stroke is twice as large as it's bore giving a bore to stroke ratio of 0.5. And in this video we will answer the question of which one of these makes more torque and why and because horsepower is essentially torque times rpm we will also answer the question of which one makes more power. And we will also apply the lessons we learn onto real engine examples to see if theory and practice match up. Simple physics tells us that these two engines make the same torque. Torque after all, is a product of the force and the leverage applied. If we imagine a hand turning a wrench our leverage is the length of the wrench and our force is how hard we push on the lever. If I push twice as hard on half the lever length the torque will be the same as if we pushed half as hard on twice the lever length. So with this logic in mind, if these two engines have the same displacement, they make the same torque? No, they do not. Here’s something that’s often overlooked when it comes to bore and stroke. An increase in stroke is a guaranteed increase in torque. It’s guaranteed because the connection between the rod, crank and piston is a fixed, constant, mechanical connection. But an increase in bore is NOT a guaranteed equivalent increase in torque because doubling the bore does not necessarily double the force acting on the piston and that’s because combustion is a variable that constantly changes with RPM and engine load. To create combustion we need air and fuel. We need somewhere between 11ish to 14ish parts air to just one part fuel. So the struggle is to bring air into the engine. There are many factors that determine how much air comes in and at which rpm. Throttle body diameter, intake manifold size and shape, intake manifold runner diameter and runner length, intake port shape, length and diameter, the number of intake valves, the angle of the valves against the centerline of the engine, intake valve size, and then we have camshaft duration and lift which determines how much and how long the valve opens. Now some of these we can continuously control throughout the rpm range and partially compensate for different engine breathing requirements at different rpm, some have 2 or maybe 3 different settings, but many of these are fixed. The fixed nature of some engine parts and the partial control of others means that they can only be truly optimized for a certain rpm range. Now let’s see how bore and stroke impact air quantity and air velocity. If we observe our two engines side by side at the same rpm we can see that the undersquare piston travels much faster. It travels faster because it must cover the much greater stroke distance within the same period of time. This results in greater piston velocity which means that we can have decent air and fuel mixing even at low rpm. But here’s something else that works in favor of increased air velocity in undersquare engines and that is that the reduced bore diameter forces the engine to have smaller valve diameters. These small valve sizes than dictate the rest of the orifices of the engine because the intake ports, runners, and throttle bodies must all match. If we have vastly different airflow capacities at any one point in the system we create airflow inefficiencies, in other words air struggles to get past such points and engine performance suffers noticeably. So the small valve diameters result in reduced diameters throughout the system which further improves air velocity. But as we know this reduces maximum air quantity which means that maximum power potential at high rpm suffers and torque starts falling off as the engine struggles to breathe through the small orifices. But an undersquare engine isn’t particularly concerned with high rpm performance and that’s because it can’t even reach very high rpm anyway. It can’t do it because of the increased piston speeds. To achieve high speeds we need high acceleration and high acceleration produces high force, which means that at high rpm the piston forces in an undersquare engine can actually damage which means that we must reduce our redline in order to preserve the engine. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #bore #stroke 00:00 Force and Leverage 02:38 Air Quantity vs Air Velocity 07:14 Piston Velocity 10:37 Rod Ratio 14:45 K20, LS, S65, KLR, HD, R18 24:00 2 pieces of a puzzle

EDIT: Massive thank you to everyone who participated. In hindsight the solutions look really obvious but as one of viewers pointed out "everything seems simple is hindsight". Thank you everyone for your kind words, input, feedback and support. I'll announce the sub-channel and the memberships soon :) More EDIT: Yes turning the turbine wheel only fixes the turbine wheel and now the compressors would actually spin the wrong way if this was an actual working jet engine. I think the manufacturer made a mistake while 3D printing the wheels and printed something correctly but others as mirror images. This video is a premiere not because I have something new and cool to show you but mostly because I would like to hear your opinion and feedback live on some things I have some doubts about. The first, shorter, part of the video, will address some of the issues with my Jet Engine explanation but the rest of the video will focus on ideas and plans for the near future where I hope you will join the conversation. The video is a bit long-winded (27min) and fully unscripted but it does get to the main point. To create a bit of a prelude, I am feeling trapped by the channel and have a strong need to produce different types of content from time to time, experiment and cover topics which I now feel are not suitable for this channel. So I was thinking about memberships and/or sub-channels as ways to do this, but I'm not yet sure what would make the most sense. I feel that I need to change the pace from time to time in order not to loose my passion for doing this. That's sort of the gist of it to get us started. Hope to see you on the premiere and I'm really excited to chat live :) Much love, d4a A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips

Now both the reciprocating piston engine and the jet engine are internal combustion engines. They combust fuel within the confines of the engine. And they both do intake, compression, combustion and exhaust. in the reciprocating piston engine these events occur one after the other. The air and fuel comes in, we then compress this mixture, after that it’s combusted and then exhausted. But in the jet engine all of these intake, compression, combustion and exhaust occur constantly and simultaneously with each other. Although they seem modern, the jet engine and the piston engine actually rely on two of the most ancient mechanical devices known to man. The piston engine relies on a crankshaft and crankshafts have been used as early as the 2nd century AD in the Roman empire. Inside the piston engine the crankshaft converts the reciprocating motion of the piston into rotation which is then ultimately used to turn a propeller or the wheels of a vehicle. But the jet engine at it’s core has something even more ancient. And that something is a turbine. Now turbines are present all around us and they’re powered by all sorts of fluids. Wind in the case of wind turbines. Steam in the case of thermoelectric power plants. Water in the case of hydroelectric power plants. Exhaust gasses in the case of turbochargers present in cars and trucks. The big difference between ancient turbines like windmills and watermills and modern turbines like turbochargers or jet engines is that we have realized that we can create much more power if we increase the energy of the fluid that’s being fed into the turbine. To better understand and appreciate the Jet Engine (turbojet in this case) we will split and analyze it in segments. We begin with the intake. The two main parts of the intake are the cone and the inlet guide. The cone serves the purpose of reducing drag and helping the air to smoothly enter the engine. The inlet guide directs and evens out the air entering the engine and also serves the purpose of protecting the engine from large foreign objects. Once the air is in the engine the first thing it meets is the compressor section. As the name implies this section has the task of compressing the air. It consists of rotors and stators. Again, as the name implies the rotors rotate whereas the stators are stationary. The rotors suck in and push the air against the stators and force it into an ever smaller space. This compresses the air which increases its pressure and temperature. Or in other words it’s potential energy. As you can see the compressor section consists of multiple rotors and stators with decreasing blade size. This tells us that the air inside a jet engine is compressed in stages. The air enters the compressor section at atmospheric pressure which is 14.7 psi, by the time it exists the compressor section that air will have a pressure of around 70 psi. This is a very significant pressure increase and if we tried to achieve this amount of compression with a single rotor and stator and a dramatic reduction in space we would likely encounter compressor stall which is a disruption in the airflow that can reduce power if it’s mild or even damage the compressor if a complete disruption disruption of the airflow occurs, at that point it is referred to as a compressor surge. Compressing the air in stages and incrementally increasing it’s pressure is more efficient and it helps prevent compressor stall. This compressed air now heads towards the combustor. Here fuel is administered and mixed with air. The fuel also carries its own potential energy. The air and fuel mixture is then ignited most often using some form of sparking device. The mixture combusts which causes it to rapidly expand greatly increasing the temperature and pressure. We now have an absolutely massive amount of energy heading towards the turbine. The turbine captures or harnesses this energy which causes it to rotate at an increasing speed. Now the turbine is connected via a common shaft with the compressor wheel. This means that an increased turbine speed leads to an increased compressor speed. A faster spinning compressor sucks in ever more air which is then fed into the combustor increasing the strength of combustion which then increases the speed of the turbine. As you can see the jet engine effectively feeds itself. The faster the turbine spins the more air is sucked in and the more powerful the combustion becomes. So does this mean that there is essentially no limit to the power that a jet engine can produce? Support the channel: Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Amazon: https://amzn.to/47U9Zhj Shop: https://driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com/en-eur/ Model from the video: https://bit.ly/40pNqOi (use code d4a for 10% off) A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #jetengine

A rotary Wankel engine consists of a triangular rotor spinning inside an epitrochoid housing. A liquid piston engine consists of an epitrochoid rotor spinning inside a triangular housing and this makes it better in every way. So today we will take an in-depth look at this engine, we will analyze its benefits, its drawbacks, we will compare it with traditional piston engines and Wankel rotary engines to measure it’s potential to change everything. If we observe the animation of the engine in operation we can observe that the Non-Wankel X engine which has a fundamentally different thermodynamic cycle, architecture and operation completes three combustion events for a single rotation of the rotor and does intake, compression, combustion and exhaust. Just like a Wankel engine. Is this nonsense? It’s not and that’s because the inverted geometry of the x-engine enables it to overcome a major limiting factor of the Wankel engine. Kenichi Yamamoto is the father of Mazda’s Wankel engine, he is the man behind Mazda’s inspirational endeavor to make Wankel engines viable for mass production and in 1981 Mr. Yamamoto wrote a book called the Rotary engine. In this book he discusses and calculates the compression ratio for Wankel engine. And it turns out that the practical compression ratio limit for a Wankel engine is around 12:1. This limit is a consequence of the geometry of the Rotary Wankel and the resulting shape of the combustion chambers. This compression ratio limit also limits the maximum efficiency of the Wankel engine and it also makes a diesel Wankel rotary unfeasible. Yamamoto’s calculations stand as correct more than 40 years later because Mazda’s latest and only currently produced rotary engine which is used as a range extender in the MX30-REV has a compression ratio of 11.9:1 But the different geometry of the liquid piston engine means that it does not have a compression ratio limit which means that a diesel version is possible and that’s exactly what the liquid piston has done with their XTS-210 engine, which is a compression ignition version of their design. But the unique geometry of liquid piston engines enables another benefit, which is the main source of the engine’s potential for improved efficiency. And that is a piston-less implementation of the Atkinson cycle, Liquid piston calls this a High Efficiency Hybrid Cycle, because obviously this sounds far more sexy for marketing and investor attracting purposes. But in reality it is a pistonless Atkinson cycle. The entire premise of the Atkinson cycle is to have a greater expansion or combustion stroke and a smaller compression stroke. A compression stroke saps power whereas a combustion stroke generates power. So if we create a greater combustion or expansion stroke than we give the engine the possibility to extract as much energy from the combustion as possible which means reduced energy losses and improved efficiency. Liquid piston engines have resolved the compression ratio limitation of rotary engines but they have not resolved the apex seals. The x-engine still has apex seals they have simply changed location. Instead of being in the rotor they are now in the housing. Liquid piston claims that this is a significant benefit because the seals no longer have to withstand centrifugal forces. According to a technical paper they wrote their models show a blowby reduction of 35% over a traditional Wankel however liquid piston believes that ultimately they can achieve around 65% blowby reduction compared to a Wankel. This simply is not enough for a truly widespread application in many different markets. But the real problem with lubrication is with the crankshaft. Because air comes into the engine through the crankshaft it means that we cannot expose the crankshaft to a constant oil bath or even pressurized oil. Instead, as we can see from their how it’s made video, the engine uses sealed bearings instead of lubricated journal or ball bearings. In terms of longevity this is an inferior solution and this together with the apex seals is the reason why even the mature design of the engine is only expected to last 1000 hours between rebuilds. So overall, this is no doubt a very clever design and I genuinely like the reverse Wankel idea of the Liquid Piston Rotary Engine. I’m also sympathetic of the fact that new engine designs need to claim very widespread potential applications to attract investors but outside of a few niche applications, where this engine will likely excel and offer genuine benefits, I personally don’t see a lot of potential for widespread use. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a 00:00 Working principle 03:06 Rotary Diesel 05:27 Pistonless Atkinson 08:07 Power density 09:53 Apex seals 11:11 Lubrication issues 14:08 Efficiency 15:52 Torque and VVT 17:18 You're in the Army Now #d4a

This door kept slamming shut by itself whenever we tried to air the place out. We got a door stopper, but I realized that the layout of the apartment is the same as that of a carburetor and the reason behind the moving of the door is the same as behind the moving of the fuel in a carburetor. Both the carburetor and the apartment feature large open spaces which are connected by a narrow passage between them. This narrow passage results in an increased air velocity and an increase in air velocity results in a decrease in air pressure. A decrease in air pressure leads to atmospheric air pressure working for us and pushing the fuel into the engine and moving doors in an apartment in ghost-like fashion. The atmosphere in which we live has an air pressure (1 bar or 14.5 psi) because all the air above us has a mass. This mass pushes down on us and creates pressure. Pressure is higher at sea level because there is more air mass above as at sea level than at the top of a mountain. If we manage to reduce air pressure at any point then atmospheric air pressure will push things towards the point of low pressure. Air always moves from high to low pressure because air aims to equalize pressure everywhere. Now we can reduce air pressure at a desired point by increasing air velocity at that point. A narrow passage between two large spaces is a great and simple way to increase air velocity at the passage because the narrowing space acts as a constriction or bottleneck and so air builds behind this constriction and pushes air or another fluid through the narrow passage with greater velocity. You have probably experienced this yourself if you ever blocked off half a garden hose with your thumb to increase the velocity of the water coming out the hose. Now increased air velocity results in reduced air pressure because the fast moving air molecules they bump away the still-standing air, they disperse it or reduce it's concentration if you will. This why doors in a draft will often slam shut by themselves. Air velocity increases across the front of the door so air pressure reduces on the front of the door but atmospheric air pressure remains behind the door. This pushes the door and moves it into a position where the air drag can grab it and slam it shut. The same thing happens to the fuel inside the carburetor. One side of the fuel is exposed to atmospheric air pressure but the other side of the fuel is exposed to reduced air pressure that occurs due to the increased air velocity in the narrow section in the middle of the carburetor. This is how atmospheric air pressure managed to push the fuel up through the tube that leads to the fuel hole in the narrow passage. The fuel slightly protrudes above the level of the hole and then the air drag grabs it and takes it into the engine. But this does raise an important question. If we rely on the throttle slide or butterfly to provide air flow through the carburetor how do we get fuel into the engine when there is no airflow i.e. the throttle slide is released and the engine idles? We do this by leveraging the power of the vacuum generated by the engine and using the idle air bypass. The throttle slide acts like a barrier between the atmosphere and the engine internals. The downward motion of the pistons generates a vacuum and when the throttle slide is released it prevents the atmosphere from entering the engine so the vacuum or the pressure difference between the inside and the outside of the engine remains. In reality we perceive this vacuum as air being sucked into the engine and when the throttle slide is released and the engine idles - vacuum is strong. So the engine can suck in air through the idle air bypass. But as soon as the throttle slide is raised atmosphere enters, vacuum weakens and so the task of fueling the engine gets transferred from the pilot jet and the idle air bypass to the main jet. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a driving 4 answers is part of amazon associates

RC Car from the video (engine included): https://bit.ly/46FJDPn Nitro Engine by itself: https://bit.ly/48YGCvb Find more engines: https://www.enginediy.com/?ref=d4a Extra 10% off code: d4a I earn a small commission if you purchase something from the link above Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a This engine here which fits neatly into my hand has a displacement of 2.95cc but it has an incredible power output of 1.8 horsepower. If you put it side by side with a 50cc 2 horsepower brush-cutter engine you realize just how incredible 1.8 horsepower from something this tiny actually is. But things get even crazier if we take the displacement and the power output and calculate the horsepower per liter for this little thing. The number we get is: 610 horsepower per liter. To put that into perspective, here’s the Koenigsegg Jesko, a 3 million dollar hypercar whose 5.1 liter twin-turbocharged V8 has a power output of 1603 horsepower when it runs on E85 ethanol fuel. These numbers give us a specific output of 316 horsepower per liter. So around half of this, and this, which is a single cylinder nitro engine, costs around 80 dollars. Now in order to match the specific output of this tiny engine we have to go beyond 3 million dollar hypercars and into current Formula 1 specifications, so from things money can buy to things that money cannot buy. Current Formula vehicles output between 750-1000 horsepower from their turbocharged 1.6 liter v6 engines and their hybrid drivetrain. Nobody knows the exact numbers because they’re not published but we will take the highest number which is 1000 horsepower and we will say that all of it comes from the engine alone, in other words we will ignore the hybrid capabilities of the F1 cars. In that scenario we get 625 horsepower liter. So we’re able to outmatch the specific power of this engine only when we stack the numbers in favor of Formula 1. But the only reason we can actually do this is because I’m using my budget friendly engine as reference. If take something a bit more competition oriented from a company called OS engines, which specializes in making these, let’s pick this one the O.S.SPEED R2105. It costs around 650ish dollars I think but it makes 2.76 horsepower from 3.95cc and that gives a specific output of 791 horsepower per liter, so not even Formula 1 can touch this. ow we have to answer some questions. How does this miniature little engine manage to have such incredible specific power? Well there are three reasons. Number 1 this engine is a two stroke, and as we know, two strokes squeeze more power from the same displacement at the expense of longevity and emissions Because this thing is a two stroke it doesn’t have camshafts, valves and valve springs. There’s nothing in here it’s just a giant heat sink with lots of coolant fins to maximize surface are and help the engine not overheat. Because there’s no valves and valve springs and because we have an absolutely tiny and very lightweight piston, rod and crank inside this engine it can rev to around 30.000 rpm. And this is the most important reason, it’s the fuel. This is called a nitro engine because the full it runs on is called nitromethane. And nitromethane is an absolutely incredible fuel with an incredible power potential. To observe that power potential we have to look at some numbers once again. This time let’s talk about power per unit of weight. If we put this on a scale we will see that it weighs 355 grams. Our power output is 1.8 horsepower which means that we make 5 horsepower per kilogram, or 2.3 horsepower per pound. Formula 1 makes 2.7 horsepower per pound or 6 horsepower per kilogram when the engine and the electric motor work together. So Formula 1 powertrains have a better power to weight ratio? Well, yes, but that’s only because the actual fuel used in this engine is only 16% nitromethane. But fortunately there exists something in this world which can demonstrate what happens with the power to weight ratio when you crank up the percentage of nitromethane in the fuel. You get this. And these are top fuel dragsters. Their fuel is 90% nitromethane the rest is mostly methanol. Their engines weigh around 226 kg and they output 11.000 horsepower. This gives us 22 horsepower per pound or 48.5 horsepower per kilogram In case you’re wondering, no, there is no electric motor that has a better power to weight ratio. Koenigsegg’s dark matter motor weighs 39 kilograms and is capable of outputting 800 horsepower, sounds very impressive but it gives us 9.3 horsepower per pound or 20.5 horsepower per kilogram. The most power dense electric motor currently in existence is the eHelix SPM177-165 from a company called Helix in the UK. It allegedly has a power to weight ratio of 15.4 horsepower per pound or 33.9 horsepower per kilogram. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #nitro

Back in 2022 Formula 1 announced that starting with 2026 all race cars will only use fully sustainable fuels in other words no new fossil carbon will be burned, instead “the carbon will come from non-food biological sources, genuine municipal waste or even extracted directly from the atmosphere” In 2023 the calendar of Formula 1 included approximately 150.000 of kilometers of land and air travel in an order that in no way prioritized the reduction of land and air travel. And pretty much all of it is on non-sustainable jet fuel and diesel. If we add all the math the race cars account for 1.9% of the distance traveled by vehicles within the 2023 Formula 1 season, and this does not include the cars and other vehicles of all the visitors flocking to the events. BMW likes to boast how their cars use up to 20% recycled plastics and how they recycle metal shavings during the manufacturing process. Here’s what they also thought was a good idea. A monthly subscription for heated seats. Basically all the metal hardware, the heating elements and all the wiring, buttons, switches, fuses, relays and software is installed into every car. However to use it, you must pay a subscription. If you don’t pay a subscription, no heated seats for you. Many people live in warm climates. Many may choose not to pay the subscription. This means that many cars will receive a piece of equipment that will never be used. The manufacturing of this equipment of course has an environmental impact. The recycling of this equipment also has an environmental impact. And it’s added weight negatively impacts the fuel efficiency of the vehicle. KTM motorcycles had a similar idea. They call it “DEMO mode”. They install a very wide array of electronic rider aids and optional features. All of these require their own wiring, chips, sensors and more. But after 1500km they all get deactivated and you can keep using only the ones you pay for. Again we have the production and future recycling of things that will never be used unless the manufacturer receives a profit. Something else that's an increasing practice among car,truck and even farm equipment manufacturers is to make parts impossible to repair or to fuse multiple parts into one. Parts integral to the operation of the vehicle are purposely welded, sealed, soldered or otherwise made in such a way that they cannot be repaired. We also have Intercoolers fused into intake manifolds and other multi-component assemblies where the failure of one part requires the replacement of the entire assemby resulting in fully functioning components ending up in the trash. The barrier against third party maintenance and repair is further strengthened by using proprietary or prohibitively expensive special tools and software walls that require part registration to restore vehicle functionality. But car manufacturers aren’t alone in this, tech giants like Apple as well as many other manufacturers of consumer electronics are also experts at greenwashing. Apple for example boasts how their new apple watch is their first carbon neutral product. The wristband has 30% recycled material in it. But they together with many other corporations from multiple different sectors have spent millions on making their products difficult or impossible to repair through methods I already mentioned. They have then spent further millions to lobby against the “right to repair” legislation in order to keep their devices unrepairable and force consumers to buy new ones because the repair of said devices is often made purposely as expensive as a new device. And as we know, making new devices and recycling old ones both have an environmental impact. And the millions spent on making devices unrepairable and the millions spent on lobbying could have easily been spent on making devices more easy to repair and empowering consumers to repair them themselves. This would have been a truly measurable positive impact for the environment but it would also negatively impact future profits of the company, meaning that it would essentially be an act of charity and Apple, BMW, KTM, Formula 1 and all of the other corporations and businesses you can think off, none of them are charities. So the problem with our world is that it is profit based and ruled by giant corporations who have so much money and power that they can bend governments and legislation to their will. Following this line of thinking we reach a conclusion that the solution is to dismantle capitalism and embrace communism while setting environmental well-being as the number 1 priority. A world of harmony and happiness shall then ensue? A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #righttorepair #sustainability 00:00 Greenwashing examples 04:29 Repairing is more sustainable 07:12 The problem is capitalism? 09:57 The smoker analogy 15:36 The rational thing to do

Here we have a inline five or straight five engine, now gasoline or petrol versions of this engine configuration are very uncommon despite offering some very interesting benefits. But what’s more interesting than their rarity is the fact that they were not made before 1976? We made gasoline engines in pretty much every configuration imaginable many many years before 1976. Singles, all kinds of twins, Inline three, inline four, inline six, v4, v6, v8, v10, v12, everything was made and mass produced decades before the inline five. We even made oddball stuff like VR engines long before the inline five. In fact the inline five is the youngest gasoline engine configuration, it’s the last to enter mass production. The question is why? Well the reason is that fuel injection technology didn’t mature before the mid-70s. What does fuel injection have to do with it? Well, the inline five doesn’t really work with carburetors. How come? We carbureted everything else very successfully. From singles to v12s. Is it because it has an odd number of cylinders? Well we successful carbureted many different inline three engines so why not the inline five. To understand it we have to visualize it. So here we have our inline five engine. Let’s start by trying to make it work with a single carburetor. Logic dictates that we should place the carburetor in the middle. Now let’s connect the carburetor to the engine via an intake manifold. Do you see the problem? It’s the very different length of the intake manifold runners. Because we have both a long engine and an odd number of cylinders we are forced to have a great difference in runner length which can lead to unequal performance of individual cylinders resulting in a rough running engine. Ok let’s try to fix this by using two carburetors. That’s obviously a waste of time because we end up in a scenario where one carburetor feeds two and the other three cylinders, again we have unequal fueling between cylinders and a rough running engine. We could try distributing the two carbs on a single manifold so that each carb somehow feeds 2.5 cylinders? Well this is no different from a single carburetor setup because we can’t “tell the fuel” where it should go, because it’s all the same fuel in the same intake manifold, in this scenario the middle carburetor gets the most fuel, as both carburetors feed it nearly directly. As long as we have a single intake manifold for all the cylinders the number of carburetors doesn’t matter because we can’t tell the fuel from a particular carburetor to go into a particular cylinder. How about this. We use one large and one small carb each with its own intake manifold. The larger one feeds three and smaller one two cylinders. If you know a bit about carburetors you probably know that getting this to run right would be extremely difficult and even if you could get it to run smoothly for the particular environment and altitude of the factory, tuning this setup in a different climate or as the engine ages would be nearly impossible because all the adjustments on one carburetor would not be proportional to the adjustments on the other and you would end up with a tuning nightmare and a scenario where two cylinders perform differently from the other three leading to a rough running engine. So the only way out is to use five individual carburetors. In a way that inline four motorcycle engines use. Yes, this would work and would lead to a smooth running engine but the associated costs and tuning complexity simply make sense in a mass produced passenger vehicle. Ok, but here’s a counter argument to everything I just said. There have been plenty of single carburetor single intake manifold inline six cylinder engines over the years, and some had very long and successful production runs. And if you look at their intake manifold you can observe a massive difference in length between the individual runners. As you can see the difference in length is pretty much the same in an inline six and an inline five, the only distinction is that in the inline six there’s two cylinders in the middle whereas is the inline five there’s only one. So why does a single carb single manifold work for the six and not the five? The answer lies in the firing order. A typical inline six has a firing order of : 1-5-3-6-2-4 Whereas a typical inline five has a firing order of: 1-2-4-5-3 As you can see in the inline six adjacent cylinders never fire one after but in the inline five they do. 1-2 followed by 4-5. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #inline5 #audi

Single: https://bit.ly/4895cZz V4: https://bit.ly/3EuFaCy 10% Off Coupon Code: d4a More stirlings: https://bit.ly/3LglOVu I often make videos about ICE, internal combustion engines and from time to time I get comments saying "why do you keep saying Internal combustion engine, it's not like we have external combustion engines". Well, that's exactly what we have in today's video. A working, running, power-producing external combustion engine. This one is a hot air or Stirling engines and it runs without needing carburetors or injectors or cams or valves or timing chains or spark plugs or anything. it is incredibly simple and it can be emissions negative, running on waste heat to save the world. So air heated here at the heat source. As it’s heated it expands but because our piston in this cylinder is loose fitting the air simply passes around it and moves through the passage between our two cylinders where it meets with our tight fitting piston. Because it is tight fitting the air cannot go around it and because it has nowhere else to go it exerts its pressure on the tight fitting piston pushing it outward. This rotates the flywheel and generates power. As you can see our other cylinder has cooling fins on it. Cooling fins dramatically increase surface area allowing this cylinder to release more heat into the surrounding air which means that once air reaches this cylinder it cools down. As it cools down it becomes less dense and pressure now reduces. But we still have ample momentum in the flywheel left over so the tight fitting piston now pushes the cooled, de-pressurized air past our loose fitting piston back to the hot side of the engine where the air heats up and expands again and the cycle repeats itself. Now onto the issue of waste heat. It's everywhere around us. Turn off your cooking hob or oven and there's enough heat in there to run a small Stirling for a few minutes and produce electricity. When you turn of your car and park it there is enough heat remaining in the exhaust manifold to run a little Stirling for 10 or even 20 minutes. Producing electricity and charging the batteries of a hybrid vehicle while the vehicle is stationary and not plugged into anything. Thermal power-plants also produce massive amounts of waste heat. Burning garbage, the list goes on. Companies such as New Zealand's WhsiperGen and UK's Inspirit Chargers have combined gas boilers with Stirling engines and even run large scale market tests of this technology. 2 Stirling engines are the means of propulsion for what is often described as the world’s quietest submarine, Sweden’s Gotland class attack submarine, which were the first submarine’s in the world to feature a Stirling Engine air-independent propulsion. This system enables the submarine to stay submerged for weeks instead of days and it makes this submarine more difficult to detect than nuclear submarines which require large noisy motors capable of pumping massive amounts of cooling water needed for the nuclear reactor. In comparison the Gotland class submarine is almost completely silent. Liquid oxygen and diesel are stored onboard and burned together to create heat for the hot side of the Stirling engines while abundant surrounding sea water is used as a heat sink for the cold side. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #stirling #cleanenergy 00:00 How it works 06:00 Benefits 08:55 How it can save the world 15:49 Undetectable Submarine I may earn a small commission if you purchase something through the links in the description/ pinned comment

Puse todo el empeño que es humanamente posible para tratar de recopilar toda la información que me fuese utilizable; para así, presentarla de una manera sencilla, coherente y comprensible. Lo anterior lo hice con el objetivo de crear el único vídeo que se necesita ver para aprender cómo funcionan los motores de 4 tiempos y de 2 tiempos. El vídeo también aborda las diferencias, ventajas e inconvenientes de los motores de 2 y 4 tiempos Empecemos con los 4 tiempos. ¿Por qué se llaman de 4 tiempos? Porque el motor de 4 tiempos necesita de 4 carreras o fases para completar un ciclo de combustión. Cada vez que el pistón se mueve de arriba a abajo............. o viceversa............... se le llama carrera o fase. Cada carrera o fase del pistón equivale a 180 grados de rotación del cigüeñal y las 4 fases son: Admisión... Compresión..... Combustión..... y Escape. Durante la fase de Admisión, el pistón se desplaza desde arriba hacia abajo, a estas secciones también se les conoce como punto muerto superior y punto muerto inferior respectivamente. Al realizar este desplazamiento inicial, el pistón crea un vacío dentro del cilindro. Este vacío recién creado es básicamente una breve ausencia de aire y como tenemos una ausencia de aire, en esencia, también tenemos baja de presión de aire. En otras palabras, tenemos una baja presión de aire dentro del cilindro y presión atmosférica fuera del mismo, la cual, es mayor. Esta diferencia de presiones no puede existir y naturalmente, el aire trata de igualar la presión en todas partes, por lo que el aire y el combustible del exterior entran al cilindro y lo llenan con una nueva mezcla de aire y combustible. A menudo se suele describir a la combustión en el interior de un motor como un estallido o una explosión, pero esto no es lo que ocurre en realidad. Una explosión es una detonación, la cual es un proceso rápido e incontrolado. Por el contrario, la combustión es una deflagración, que es un proceso mucho más lento, uniforme y controlado. La combustión se propaga desde la bujía hacia el resto del cilindro por medio de una transferencia de calor. Es decir, la bujía inicialmente enciende una porción pequeña de aire y combustible, la cual, calienta y enciende la siguiente capa aire y combustible y este ciclo continúa hasta que se quema toda la mezcla aire-combustible dentro del cilindro. A medida que la llama de la combustión se propaga, la temperatura y la presión en el interior del cilindro aumentan rápidamente. Como el cilindro está sellado, esta presión no tiene adonde ir, así que termina empujando al pistón hacia el punto muerto inferior del cilindro con una gran fuerza....... Esta ha sido nuestra carrera de combustión y de las 4 fases, es la única que realmente genera potencia. Logra generala convirtiendo la energía liberada por la combustión en un movimiento del pistón, que a su vez, este movimiento hace girar al cigüeñal y por último, hace girar a las ruedas. Estando ya totalmente en el punto muerto inferior, toda la mezcla de aire y combustible se debió haber quemado y sólo quedarían los restos de la combustión o también llamados gases de escape en el interior del cilindro. Entonces, en el caso de los 4 tiempos, tenemos una culata junto con el tapa de válvulas, mientras que en los 2 tiempos, en realidad, sólo tenemos una tapa o cubierta para el cilindro. En la tapa del cilindro de 2 tiempos no hay piezas móviles. No hay válvulas, ni cadenas, ni levas, ni muelles. Por consecuente, hay menos peso, menos complejidad, menos costos y menos posibilidades de que algo se dañe. Cada vez que el pistón de 2 tiempos está en el punto muerto superior, se produce una combustión. Esto también explica el nombre de "2 tiempos". El motor sólo necesita de 2 carreras o fases del pistón para completar su ciclo de combustión. En otras palabras, cada 360 grados o cada revolución completa del motor produce una combustión. Mientras que en un motor de 4 tiempos, la combustión sólo ocurre una que otra vez cuando el pistón alcanza el punto muerto superior. Esto da a lugar a 1 combustión por cada 720 grados de rotación del motor. Esto significa que el motor de 2 tiempos produce el doble de combustiones o impulsos de potencia para las mismas rpm, lo que significa, que al menos en teoría, el motor de 2 tiempos puede producir el doble de potencia para una misma cilindrada, en comparación con un motor de 4 tiempos. Un agradecimiento especial para mis patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #2tiempos #4tiempos 00:00 Ciclo de combustión de los 4 tiempos 08:02 Ciclo de combustión de los 2 tiempos 13:24 Válvula de láminas o pétalos 15:02 Lubricación 21:12 Relación de compresión 23:41 Distribución mediante válvulas & válvulas de potencia 27:18 Inyección directa

More than 270 km of hard driving. This one definitely got a hard break-in. Issues have been detected, successes are being celebrated. Here's one erratic update! A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #projectunderdog

So here we have two identical vehicles. The only difference between them is that one makes 1000 horsepower and 500 pound feet of torque and the other makes 500 horsepower and 1000 pound feet of torque. The question is: If we these two vehicles faced each other on a quarter mile drag course, which one would win? Horsepower or torque? Well that’s the question we will answer today and by answering it we will gain a more profound understanding of horsepower torque and vehicle dynamics and possibly also a headache. So let’s get started Now these numbers are peak torque and peak horsepower numbers but before we use them we need to know at what engine rpm do these peak numbers occur. To make things fair we will say that peak horsepower and peak torque occurs at the same rpm for both vehicles. So let’s just say that peak horsepower occurs at 5000 rpm and let’s say that peak torque occurs at 2500 rpm. Now if you already know a bit about torque and horsepower you might be able to tell that there’s something wrong with one of our engines. And to demonstrate the issue as well as our first lesson of this video I will use this convenient little formula and it says that horsepower is equal to torque times rpm divided by 5252. The same formula for metric units would be Kilowatts equal torque in Nm times rpm divided by 9549, but I’ll be using imperial units today because later in the video we’ll be plugging numbers into a simulation software that’s programmed in imperial units. But the lessons and concepts explored in this video are completely independent from and are equally valid whether you use metric or imperial. Now we’re going to learn something about horsepower and torque by demonstrating how our horsepower biased engine is actually impossible. We will then fix this engine to make our drag race fair and possible. Let’s say that we want to find out what kind of torque this engine generates at peak horsepower rpm which is as we said 5000. So according to our formula 1000 = x times 5000 / 5252. If we solve for X This gives us 1050.4 pound feet of torque. Which is higher than our peak torque of 500. Things don’t add up. As you can see from our simple formula horsepower is torque times rpm divided by a constant, so horsepower is essentially torque times rpm. In other words horsepower within itself contains both the amount of torque and the frequency of torque application. In the simplest terms possible: horsepower is torque over time where time is represented by rpm, rotations per minute. So if we are achieving 1000 horsepower at 5000 rpm than our peak torque simply cannot be 500 pound feet. And that’s because horsepower is a product of both torque value and frequency of its application. If both torque and the frequency of it’s application is high then horsepower will of course also be high. It is impossible to have high horsepower with very low torque. The only way to achieve that is to make up for the low torque with a very high frequency of torque application, or very high rpm. If you can’t punch very hard then you have to deliver more punches im the same period of time to deliver the same amount of damage. In our case we have a high horsepower figure, 1000 at a relatively low rpm, 5000, and this tells us our torque must be high. In other words we’re dealing a lot of damage with a relatively low number of punches and this tells us that each of our punches definitely packs a punch. This teaches us how torque, horsepower and rpm are inter-connected. It is incorrect and misleading to try and observe and compare them isolated from each other. So if we want to have a 1000 horsepower and 500 pound feet of torque engine then peak horsepower cannot be delivered at 5000 rpm. If we want to do the same damage but keep our punches weak then we must increase the number of punches delivered. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #horsepower #torque 00:00 Explanation 05:40 Simulation 11:56 Results

The volumetric efficiency table is perhaps the most important table inside any ECU. Our vertical axis is engine load which in this case is MAP or manifold absolute pressure, in other words this is simply the air pressure inside your intake manifold. Our horizontal axis is engine rpm or rotations per minute. This data can come from a crankshaft position sensor which counts the number of engine revolutions or it can come from something like an ignition coil, the ECU counts the number of ignition coil firings per minute and knows the rpm based on this. At idle and other low load scenarios inside the intake manifold we will find vacuum, or air pressure below that of the atmospheric air pressure outside the engine. This occurs because the throttle plate is closed and prevents entry of large amounts of outside air into the intake manifold while at the same time the engine is running and the downward motion of the pistons is rapidly creating a void or absence of air above it. The same air is then mixed with fuel, compressed and burned. In other words it’s consumed. So the engine is consuming more air than the throttle plate is allowing inside the manifold, meaning that we actually have less air per unit of volume inside the manifold than in the ambient atmosphere outside the engine. In other words a cubic inch or cubic centimeter or cubic whatever of air inside the intake manifold at idle actually contains less molecules of air than that same cubic inch or cubic centimeter of ambient atmosphere air outside the engine. Because we have less air we have less air pressure, or in other words, a vacuum inside the intake manifold. But as the throttle plate opens more and more outside air is allowed into the engine and pressure gradually increases, it transitions from vacuum to atmospheric pressure. The engine of course can’t consume the entire atmosphere and therefore the pressure inside the intake manifold becomes atmospheric when the throttle is fully opened. But notice that on our map atmospheric pressure is displayed as zero. Below zero is vacuum. Above zero is boost. A naturally aspirated engine will never go significantly beyond this point whereas a turbocharged or supercharged engine will venture into this area and how high it will go depends on how much boost is generated. Speaking of what the engine is capable of doing we must ask what do the numbers in the table itself actually mean? 87 what? Well, this is volumetric efficiency of the engine at that particular intersection of manifold pressure or engine load and engine rpm which means that this is not 87 of some unit, it’s 87 percent. 87 percent of what? 87% of the volume of the engine, or it’s displacement. In other words 87 means that 87 of the engine’s displacement has been filled with air. 100% would mean that all of the engine’s displacement has been filled with air. As you know the displacement of an engine is actually the volume of the cylinder and the combustion chamber above the piston. 100% volumetric efficiency means that the engine has managed to ingest enough air to completely fill this space with air. What does a volumetric efficiency of 110 mean? As you can see this occurs at boost, in other words a forced induction device, aka turbo or supercharger is forcing more air into the engine than the engine would be capable of aspirating naturally. Due to the action of the forced induction device the volume of air inside the cylinder is greater than the volume of the cylinder and so the pressure of air inside the cylinder and consequently the intake manifold increases. What’s interesting to observe is that volumetric efficiency actually starts dropping off as RPM increases. Shouldn’t the engine be ingesting more air the faster it spins? Well yes, but up to a point and this table very accurately reflects the anatomy of the engine. At low rpm we have low piston speed and because the pistons are moving slowly the velocity of the air entering the engine is also reduced so we’re unable to fill the cylinder. As piston speeds increase air velocity increases and we reach a point where we achieve maximum volumetric efficiency. But as piston speeds increase even further the intake and exhaust valves are open for ever shorter amounts of time because the opening and closing of the valves is synced to the speed of the piston via a cam chain or cam belt. At some point the valves are no longer open long enough for enough air to enter the engine and volumetric efficiency starts falling off. The engine simply can’t breathe fast enough to match the rpm. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #boostschool 00:00 Theory 08:49 Practice

Engine is still not nearly broken in and I'm still somewhat afraid the car will fall apart or catch fire. Never did the alignment either but turns out there's no need, goes straight and feels good in the corners. I guess eyeballing it worked for now :) I'm more comfortable with the power now, the drama effect wore off somewhat. I'm estimating that with the 0.5 bar (7-8 psi) it shouldn't make more than 160-170hp (although it somehow feels more than that when the road opens up and there's space to push it). Whatever it is this power level seems to suit it ideally I think, really controllable and confidence inspiring but still packs a very nice punch. The Quaife ATB torsen limited slip differential is worth its weight in gold, a massive transformation in cornering capacity and feel. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #projectunderdog #turbo

https://innengine.com Balance: https://youtu.be/TQlyS2rw-sk Today I’d like to introduce you to a very special engine. It claims to be a 1 stroke engine. It has no crankshaft and no cylinder head and it squeezes out 120hp naturally aspirated from only 500cc of displacement and weighs only 35 kilograms. It’s called INNengine and it comes from the beautiful city of Granada in Spain. The engine has already been manufactured and it was even installed and tested in a Mazda mx-5. Today we will take an in-depth look at this engine, we will explain how it works and we will discuss its potential, its benefits and drawbacks and we will see what makes sense and what doesn’t. First up, let’s see how this thing works and what makes it a 1 stroke engine. To understand that we must learn about the anatomy of this little thing. As you can see we have a total of 8 pistons in an opposed piston arrangement. Instead of a crankshaft we have this complex shaped wavy thing and the pistons ride on rollers along the wavy surface. As the combustion force pushes down the piston the piston pushes down on the wavy thing, as the piston goes down the slope it also forces the wavy thing to rotate. There are two wavy things connected to each other via a common shaft. All 8 pistons act on the wavy things and the forces generated by all 8 pistons are transferred through the shaft resulting in a single torque output at both ends of the shaft. So in theory you could connect a drivetrain at both ends. For example one of these at the center with an axle at both ends could create a simple, well balanced and very lightweight four-wheel drive vehicle. We can connect a drive-train on both ends of this engine because this engine does not have a cylinder head and it doesn’t have camshafts or valves. So it does not need to use one end of the engine to drive the cams via an easily accessible and serviceable cam chain or cam belt. How does it work without cams or valves then? Well instead of valves we have intake and exhaust ports which are opened and closed by the piston, just like in a typical 2 stroke engine. At the middle between the two pistons we have an injector and a spark plug which ignites the air fuel mixture. As the combustion pressure builds it pushes on the piston sending them outward. As the pistons move they uncover the intake and exhaust ports. 4 pistons on one side of the engine deal with intake and 4 pistons on the other side of the engine deal with exhaust. So how do we prevent exhaust gasses from escaping out through the intake and messing everything up? Well, we do that just like we do it in a traditional engine, by relying on scavenging which occurs when both the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time. The exhaust port of the INNengine likely gets uncovered first which allows the pressurized gasses to start escaping out from the combustion area. Since they are pressurized they escape rapidly and leave a void or vacuum behind them. This vacuum is at a lower pressure than the intake charge outside the chamber which is at atmospheric pressure, which means that the intake charge rushes into the combustion area and fills it with fresh air. The upward sloped part of the wavy thing then pushes the pistons back up and so they close the intake and exhaust ports and now start compressing the air. The injectors add fuel and we now have a compressed air fuel mixture in the combustion area and the process starts once again. The spark plug fires, combustion occurs, pressure builds, the pistons are forced down, they rotate the wavy thing and torque is generated. So what we have here is a very simple engine without cams or valves but with direct injection, but also without all the deposits that accumulate on the intake valves, because we have no valves. So we have the benefits of direct injection without the drawbacks. Bur this is clearly not a 1 stroke engine. Here we have the combustion stroke which overlaps with the exhaust stroke, followed by the intake stroke which then overlaps with the compression stroke. This is a 2 stroke engine, a direct injection two stroke without the emissions problems because the oil is under the piston and never burned, which I personally find more impressive than the 1 stroke gimmick. The other thing is the opposed piston design and this is an advantage because opposed pistons designs are more efficient than a non-opposed design. In a non-opposed design some of the energy of combustion is simply wasted on heating up the combustion chamber above the piston. The combustion chamber doesn’t go anywhere and it just absorbs the energy as heat. But in an opposed design we have a piston instead of a combustion chamber which means that more combustion energy gets to be transferred and converted into useful torque leading to improved efficiency. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #innengine

A big thank you to: https://www.aemelectronics.com/ https://www.weldspeed.com.au/ https://midshipgarage.com/ https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/ https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/ A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips Project underdog is alive! From a bunch of parts scattered around the garage to a living breathing boosting street machine. Building this car is and driving it for the first time is an experience I will never forget. Not that it's anywhere near finished...nor will it ever be :) It's a project car. But a giant milestone has been reached. A completely weird combo of a previously NA Toyota MR2 mk1 aw11 combined with a boosted 2nd gen 4AFE egine and an E51 transmission from a supercharged 4agze mr2 mk1. Half of this car is custom, the other half are parts from a Renault Clio, Alfa Romeos, Audi 100 diesel :) But the combo seems to work really well so far. What a joy. Thank you everyone. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. Also, this video has English subtitles you can use because the audio is poor at some spots. More details about the build: https://youtu.be/gskkfFZXwzI ECU wiring: https://youtu.be/z-onJjFyE3E 00:00 Build overview 15:45 Drive #d4a #projectunderdog

Today I will explain how the Mazda Miata / MX-5 achieved something that no other car ever has and no other car ever will. Jinba ittai, which means person and horse as one, is a very important concept in Yabusame, Japanese mounted archery. It conveys a state in which horse and rider behave as one. There is no need for additional restraint or control inputs from the rider. The horse and the rider are connected to the point where it seems that they're effectively reading each other's minds. When this is achieved the rider's hands can be used to aim and shoot the bow instead of holding the reins. This is the very idea that Mazda engineers chose as the guiding concept for the development of the Mazda MX-5. But saying that the unification of car and driver is something unique to Mazda would be a blatant lie. Many other manufacturers were doing this decades before Mazda without referencing horses or riders. And of course Mazda was very aware of this. So Mazda bought and intimately studied this car, the Lots Elan, during the development process of the MX-5. And if you look at the two cars side by side the the inspiration behind the first generation of the Mazda MX-5 is obvious. It may not be very familiar to young drivers and car enthusiasts today but the first generation of the Lotus Elan, made from 1962 to 1974, is remembered by many as the car that delivered truly incredible and unparalleled driving joy. Back in the day car and driver described it like this: "The Elan comes closer than anything else on the market to providing a Formula car for ordinary street use. And it fits like a Sprite, goes like a Corvette, and handles like a Formula Junior. Driving it is very simply another sort of automotive experience altogether. Most people tend to come back from their first ride a little bit glassy-eyed..." One of the greatest car designers and engineers of all time, Gordon Murray said "Series 3 Lotus Elan... it's still, in my opinion, probably the best-handling sports car that's ever been made... If anybody wants to know what good steering is, just jump in the 60s Elan" So Mazda took one of the best feeling and best handling cars ever made and ripped it off. Along the way they concocted some sort of horse and rider nonsense so it looks like their idea and that's it. End of story. Actually no, to call the mx5 a copy would be missing the point. Over the years Japanese manufacturers have often inspired themselves by products of other countries, but never have these cars been just a copy. They were always much more. A copy pales in contrast to the original. But the MX-5 does not. In fact the MX-5 has set and achieved a far more ambitious and difficult goal than the Lotus Elan. To realize what that goal is we just have to ask the very obvious question. Which car had better sales? The original or the copy? Well, Lotus sold a bit over 12.000 Elans total. But Mazda sold more than 400.000 MX-5s and that's just the first generation alone. The combined number of all the generations amounts to more than million car sold making the MX-5 the best sold 2 seater convertible of all times. The next obvious question is why? If the Elan made people tear up while driving, why didn't it take the world by storm. The reason is that the Elan was essentially a hand built car. It used a, for the time, revolutionary steel backbone chassis with a fiberglass body on top. This made it very light but it also made production expensive and slow. And even though Lotus used as many conventional Ford components as they could to keep the costs down the car was still expensive. You could buy two Mini Cooper S's for the price of One Elan. And this was just the initial underpowered Lotus Elan 1500, the more powerful editions that came would come close to the Jaguar E-type in price. Now Mazda's goal was to preserve the epic driving joy and low weight of the Elan while making the car affordable, reliable and well suited for mass production. This is the equivalent of saying: I'm going to prepare myself to compete in the Olympics on a diet that consists exclusively of junk food. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #miata #mx-5

A video that can help you better understand engine balance and the difference between flat boxer and flat non-boxer engines: https://youtu.be/TQlyS2rw-sk Last week I made a video explaining scotch yoke engines and I did a bit of an update on Alfadan, the company that is planning to release a scotch yoke inline four engine in the future. But after making the video I was still thinking a bit about the scotch yoke design and it’s related balance so I decided to do some research. Now on the Wikipedia page for scotch yoke I found this interesting chunk of text that mentions the Bourke engine as well hot air and steam engines, that’s all pretty well known stuff. But what I never heard about before is this, something called the sytech engine. And as you can see this is not hyperlinked…there’s no wiki page on sytech engine. So I google sytech engine and eventually ended up on this page right here, and boy was I surprised. Look! This is not a 3d render. This is a photo of an actual engine. This thing is real. And it’s incredibly interesting. Now before we go any further, I just want to say that this is not in any way a sponsored video. I have not even gotten in touch with this company. I’m not promoting anything. This is just me exploring and sharing something really really interesting that I found purely by chance. And as you will see I didn't need to get in touch with these guys because all the information you could possibly want, they have already published it, they have done all the testing, this is pretty much a production ready engine. Honestly this whole page really made my day as it’s been a long time that I stumbled onto something this new and this interesting. Look, they even made a flat 8-cylinder non-boxer scotch yoke engine And as you can see the engine in this video is a scotch yoke flat four non-boxer opposed piston engine, which interestingly enough is a completely different approach to Alfadan which aims to make a inline four scotch yoke engine. Now this is extremely interesting because a flat four non-boxer engine is a stupid idea from the perspective of engine balance. Now as you have seen from my previous video the scotch yoke design completely eliminates secondary balance issues which means that a four cylinder now becomes the lowest number of cylinder needed to achieve perfect balance without balance shafts, whereas with a conventional crank and rod the lowest number of cylinders needed to achieve this is 6. A scotch yoke inline four has perfect primary and secondary balance. But a flat four non-boxer does not, regardless if it’s scotch yoke or not. The four cylinder scotch yoke engine is supposed to be a range extender and when you take this into account the flat four non-boxer configuration really starts making sense because this is overall the most compact possible four cylinder engine configuration. And if we scroll down to the bottom of the website we can find three very interesting PDFs. If we open the first one we will find an incredible wealth of data among which is also this page. And here you can see that a very compact flat four engine enables placement almost anywhere in the car or in the words of sytech “the engine can be placed in areas of the vehicle that other engines cannot”. As you can see a flat four scotch yoke beats other four cylinders in terms of size. In the boxer each rod gets its own crankpin but in the flat engine we put two rods on one crank pin. This is why a flat non-boxer engine is noticeably shorter than a flat boxer engine. But the scotch yoke design takes this a step further. In conventional flat non boxer we have to stack the rods side by side but in a scotch yoke the engine is constructed in such a way that the pistons are perfectly opposed which means that a scotch yoke flat four can be shorter than any conventional four cylinder engine configuration. Another interesting thing to observe Is that this is a modular engine. According to this Sytech is planning to offer a 2 a 4 and an 8 cylinder version. Modularity means high parts commonality and this means reduced costs and increased market coverage. The 2 cylinder version can for example be used for home generators, the four cylinder is a great range extender whereas the 8 cylinder is likely intended for performance oriented combustion only or hybrid vehicles. I have to say that the 8 cylinder is extremely interesting as this is a true engine-head configuration. I’m pretty sure they went for 8 cylinders because this configuration enables perfect balance out of the box without balancing shafts. Judging from the engine codes the 8 cylinder is a 3.0 liter engine and in turbocharged form it churns out 335 horsepower which isn’t especially impressive by modern standards but it’s still definitely respectable. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #scotchyoke

This engine is better in every way than a conventional engine. It’s more efficient, it makes more power and it even has much better balance. First, the efficiency. The connecting rod in a conventional engine is at an angle when combustion occurs. Of the four strokes combustion is the one where by far the highest loads are placed on the engine. The fact that the rod is angled during combustion means that the load placed on it is trying to flip the rod. As the rod tries to do this it actually ends up pushing the piston into the cylinder wall. This increases friction and friction is wasted energy which means that efficiency is reduced as less of the energy created by combustion is actually turned into useful work. The other problem is that this increased friction also increases wear. This angle of the rod is the reason why one side of a cylinder wears more than the other over many miles. Next up, power. How can a different rotating assembly increase power? It can do this by giving the engine more time to harness the energy created by combustion. This of course also positively contributes to efficiency but at high rpm when the window for harnessing combustion energy becomes very small, buying some time leads to higher power output. How does the rotating assembly buy time? By preventing the rod from pulling the piston down. Now our unconventional engine has a name and it’s called is a scotch yoke engine. A scotch yoke is simply an alternative way of turning rotation into reciprocation and it is not a novel concept at all. It has been employed many times in the past in steam and hot air engines. In the 1920 a gentleman by the name of Ruseel Bourke attempted to improve two stroke engines by empliyng a scotch yoke design and although he built a few working examples, his design was never commercialized. This brings us to the elephant in the room. If this design has sooo many benefits and is much better than a conventional engine then why do all of our vehicles, land, sea and air, use a conventional engine instead of the allegedly much better scotch yoke design. But the actual key reason why this engine is not in every vehicle is that this design has an inherent weakness and if you observe it for a bit it quickly becomes obvious where the weakness is…and yes you guessed it. It’s the rod. It’s always the rod. This giant slot that we made in the rod in order to gain all these benefits has done two things. First of all it has made the rod weak and second it has created potential for friction problems. However, material science and engineering as well as machining have made leaps and bounds in the last few decades and may now be in the position to offer solutions to the inherent problems of the scotch yoke engines. And this brings us to Alfadan. As some of you may know, I made a video about a novel engine design two years ago. The company behind this engine is called Alfadan and according to their patent the engine they want to bring to market is an inline four with a scotch yoke design. The video I made got many views for some reason and I still get a lot of questions in my comments asking about updates. I also get accusations how I promoted a scam etc. So I’d like to use this opportunity to discuss Alfadan a bit and hopefully provide answers to the past and future questions that may come. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #scotchyoke 00:00 Scotch Yoke engine benefits 08:43 Alfadan follow-up

Back in Spring of 2015 Christian von Koenigsegg told reporters that Freevalve technology is "getting ready for fruition". In November 2016, Chinese automobile manufacturer Qoros Auto displayed the Qoros 3 hatchback at the 2016 Guangzhou Motor Show. This car featured a camless “Qamfreee” engine using freevalve technology. The Qoros3 never left the concept stage and never became a mass production reality. In 2020 The Koenigsegg Gemera was unveiled. It featured a 2.0 liter inline three cylinder engine with freevalve that makes 600 horsepower. Production of the Gemera was supposed to begin in 2021. The date has since been moved to 2024. So it has been 8 years since the announcement of Freevalve but it seems that today in 2023 we are no closer to this technology being reality than we were back in 2015. Why is that? Well, that’s exactly what I will attempt to answer in this video and more importantly I will also explain why freevalve isn’t as big of a deal as it initially seems and why it’s possible that this technology will never become mainstream mass production reality. Don’t get me wrong. Freevalve is incredibly cool and I would love to see it become reality and I would love to own a vehicle with freevalve, but unfortunately the common sense realist inside me is skeptical and to explain the reasons behind my skepticism we first have to understand why freevalve is touted as a revolutionary technology that can dramatically improve engines. As you probably know valves let fresh air in and exhaust out of the engine. And the camshaft is the physical metal “programing” of those valves. The camshaft determines when, how much and how long the valves open. The problem with a traditional fixed valve timing is that our “programing” always stay the same. Once the camshaft is ground everything is 100% fixed throughout the entire rpm range of the engine. So let’s imagine that we have to choose a camshaft for an engine and let’s imagine that we want to extract maximum performance from our engine. So we choose a camshaft with very high lift and very high duration. This let’s in a lot of air into the engine we then add lots of fuel and produce powerful and fast combustion and make big power. But we pay a very high price for this. At low rpm our vehicle feels sluggish and unresponsive and our idle is unstable and produces high emissions. The reason behind this is that low rpm means low piston speeds. And low piston speeds means low air velocity. Low air velocity means poor air and fuel mixing. Poor air and fuel mixing means poor combustion. Poor combustion means reduced torque. Now the key thing here is that air velocity and air quantity sort of work against each other. If you have a large opening or cross-section you can have high air flow quantity but the larger your cross section the lower your air velocity. So at low rpm what we actually want to do is open the valve less in order to reduce our cross-section and increase air velocity in order to improve air fuel mixing and restore some low torque rpm. But of course if we reduce lift we reduce our maximum potential performance. For now we will ignore the fact that high lift creates added strain on the valve train and can cause valve float. So how do we fix this? It’s actually pretty easy and straightforward. Get rid of the fixed metal programming and introduce infinitely variable programming. Get rid of the camshaft and instead create an individual high-tech solenoid for each valve. No longer is the valve opening speed a slave to the piston speed and the camshaft lobe shape. The valve now opens near instantly. It remains open as much and as long as you want whenever you want. Your only real constraint now is to avoid hitting the piston. Everything else is infinitely variable and more importantly it’s variable completely independently from each other. The end result is that you can have it all. Dramatic high rpm performance as well as low emissions and high torque and responsiveness at low rpm and low throttle openings. Throttle? What am I saying, if we can infinitely vary the valve opening we can use the valves to decide how much air comes into the engine, we don’t even need a throttle anymore. By getting rid of the throttle we improve efficiency by getting rid of the pumping losses. What are pumping losses? Try breathing through a straw. That’s exactly what the engine is doing when it’s trying to ingest air through a tiny orifice provided by a throttle butterfly that is only slightly open. So Freevalve is obviously amazing. Why then am I saying how it’s not a big deal? It’s not a big deal because what I just did is compare freevalve to a fixed valve timing engine. And this is also what freevalve has been doing themselves. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #freevalve #koenigsegg

If you have ever walked down a street and observed the wheels of parked cars you may have noticed how front brakes are always larger than rear ones. And it's not just the diameter of the brake disc, it's also the brake calipers, which are larger and often have more pistons in the front. If you had the opportunity to observe brakes of cars with their wheels removed you may also have noticed that front brake discs are usually ventilated whereas rear ones are not. So why is this the case? Well the answer is that if rear brakes were larger than front ones, braking would often result in your car spinning out of control and likely crashing. To understand why this would happen we must observe what happens with the car during hard braking. As you can see the front of the car or the nose of the car dives. This happens because of weight transfer. Weight transfer occurs because of inertia. The car wants to keep going in the same direction but the brakes and the tires are trying to stop it. By doing so they become the point of rotation for the vehicle. A nice way to visualize weight transfer is to imagine a car with a single wheel in the middle. You can imagine how such a vehicle would hit the ground with its nose upon hard brake application. Motorcycles are also great for visualizing weight transfer and the brakes becoming a point of rotation of the vehicle, because this is exactly what happens when a motorcycle performs a stoppie. Now this weight transfer is an extremely important factor to overall braking performance and it greatly impacts the performance of your tires. Why? Well that's because weight transfer provides increased grip to front tires. As you probably know tires keep the car on the road through friction between the rubber and the road surface. But friction is a very fickle phenomenon. Despite what intuition may say, friction is not influenced by surface area. In other words it doesn't matter how you drag a plank across the floor, whether on it's side or on it's face – friction will be the same even if surface area is not the same. Friction only cares about the force acting on the object, which is usually the weight of the object and the friction coefficient which is determined by the surface roughness of the object material. So in the case of a car coming to a hard sudden stop the material obviously remains the same but weight does not. Weight transfer puts more weight above the front wheels, in other words the force acting on the wheels pressing them down into the ground has increased. This means that the front tires now have increased friction and thus increased grip available to them. Now for any brake system to be efficient and safe it must be capable of overcoming the maximum grip potential of the tires. What does this mean? It means that all brakes on all cars made in the past 40 years or so are capable of overpowering the tires. In other words when you slam on the brakes the brakes are strong enough to cause the tires to skid or slide acorss the surface. Now tire skidding is bad news because a tire that is skidding has much less friction than a tire that is still maintaining it's grip on the road. This is why ABS was invented. Using sensors on the wheels the ABS control unit can „see“ when a tire is about to skid. To prevent this from happening the ABS system rapidly releases and grabs the brakes in order to maintain grip and prevent skidding. This is the vibration you feel in the brake pedal when abs engages, it's the rapid releasing and grabbing that the ABS system is performing to achieve maximum braking potential and prevent skidding. A step up from this can be found on some race-cars and it's a brake proportioning valve that can be controlled by the driver. This means that you can change brake bias on the fly while driving. But ultimately all of these purely mechanical systems are limited. This is why we invented something known as EBD or Electronic brakeforce distribution. This is a system that is capable of constantly monitoring what is happening to each wheel and constantly changing the amount of brakeforce allocated to each individual wheel. A system like this the optimal way of maximizing braking potential and preventing the under-utilization of rear brakes. EBD can increase brake force on the rear wheels before weight transfer occurs and then reduce it as weight transfer occurs to prevent the rear from skidding out of control. It can also allocate more brakeforce to the outer rear wheel during cornering because this wheel has more grip and then after weight transfer it can allocate more to the outer front wheel to maximize braking. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #brakebias 00:00 Weight transfer and friction 03:51 Proportioning valves 06:10 CX-30 vs MX-5 vs MR2 09:12 Manual vs Electronic bias

Let's imagine two engines made from the same parts. They have the same crankshaft, the same piston, the same wrist pin and the same connecting rod. The only difference between them is that this engine has the cylinder center offset from the crankshaft center whereas in this engine they are perfectly aligned. If you observe these two engines in rotation you can see that they do the same thing. The crankshaft rotates, the piston reciprocates, the rod does it’s own thing. However this is nothing other than a superficial illusion, because this little offset actually changes everything. Despite being made from the same parts these two engines are fundamentally different. The cylinder offset impacts power and efficiency as well as engine size, it dramatically influences engine balance and it disrupts the length and duration of the piston strokes. And in this video we will explain how and why all of this happens and why many recent engines employ an offset cylinder configuration. We will start simple and then gradually increase the level of mind-bogglingness until you get completely sick and disgusted of looking at these two engines and close this video. Let’s see how long you can last. So let’s start easy. Heres’ the first fact: The offset cylinder engine makes more power and is more efficient. Why? Let’s imagine that both pistons are just a bit past the start of the combustion event So we have combustion pressure building inside the chamber resulting in massive forces pushing down on the piston. But the piston is obviously connected to the crankshaft via a wrist pin which means that the piston also pushes down on the rod and then the rod pushes down on the crankshaft. The problem lies in the fact that the rod is inclined at a certain angle. The downward force exerted on the rod is directed at the small end of the rod, meaning that this force is actually trying to spin the rod or flip it over if you will. As the rod tries to flip over it ends up pushing the piston against the cylinder wall which increases friction. The sharper the angle of the rod the harder the rod pushes the piston into the cylinder wall and the greater the friction. As you can see the offset cylinder allows us to noticeably reduce the angle of the rod which reduces friction. Reduced friction means that less of the energy generated by the engine gets wasted on friction which means that there’s more available to be converted into usable work a.k.a power. Next up let’s talk about size. Yamaha on their website claim that an offset cylinder engine is more compact. Now this isn’t a lie per se, but this statement is only true under certain conditions. As you can see in our example both engines are of the same size. In fact the offset actually makes this engine wider overall. So why did Yamaha say this? Well they said it because the only other way to reduce cylinder friction is to make the connecting rod longer. As you can see if we make a zero offset engine with a longer rod the resulting rod angle ends up being noticeably reduced which leads to reduced friction, however the a longer rod obviously leads to a much taller engine. So basically what Yamaha is trying to say is that a zero cylinder offset engine can’t have reduced friction without being taller because of its increased rod length. So the offset cylinder engine is only more compact than when compared against a zero offset engine with a longer rod. Now let’s address something that you have probably already noticed. The offset cylinder engine obviously has a longer stroke. How is this possible if the crankshaft is the same? As we know, an engine’s stroke or the distance the piston travels from top dead center to bottom dead center is determined by the length of the crankshaft throw or the distance between the center of the main journal and the rod journal. This distance is what determines the diameter of the imaginary circle drawn by the crankshaft during rotation and the distance between these two points on the circle ends up being the stroke of the piston. On the offset engine bottom dead center is here. As you can see the line which connects the crankshaft with the piston is obviously longer in the case of the offset engine because this line is at an angle. Now what connects the piston to the crankshaft is obviously the connecting rod which means that in order to retain the same stroke the offset engine would have to employ a longer rod. If you keep the rod length the same it means that this line is forced to become shorter which pulls down the piston an additional distance which increases stroke. 00:00 Power and efficiency 03:31 Stroke length 05:35 Unequal strokes 15:06 Balance A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #cylinderoffset #enginebalance

Today I’d like to tell you a story of an immortal car, the Volvo 240 and it’s indestructible heart, the Volvo redblock engine. Along the way we will take a deep dive into the history of Volvo and Volvo cars of the 70s and 80s, we will analyze their hardware and learn about the incredible legacy of these seemingly simple yet truly amazing machines. Our story starts way back in 1961. When Volvo introduced this. The B18 inline four cylinder engine. It was a successor to Volvo’s b16 engine, an engine that had already built up a very respectable reputation for reliability. But Volvo said, nay, this is not enough or det här är inte tillräckligt, so they took an already strong and reliable engine and made it stronger. The b18 was a big step forward for Volvo because it marked the transition from a crankshaft with three main bearings towards one with 5. But this still wasn’t enough so Volve made the main bearings giant. In fact they were close to those of a truck. Volvo liked to boast how the b18 mean bearings were larger than those on a Ferrari V12, an engine that had to cope with dramatically more stress and much higher loads. The B18 had neither a chain nor belt to drive the camshaft. Those were seen as far too flimsy. Instead the cam-in-block was driven by gears, one of which was made out of fibers to reduce noice. Gears were chosen because unlike chains or belts gears can neither snap nor stretch. The block was made from cast iron. To make sure that the block and head expanded equally the head was cast iron too. And not just any cast iron. This was Swedish cast iron. Regarded since ancient times as the best iron in the world. Now this approach and dedication to indestructibility that Volvo had set up during their experience with b18 would define the brand in the following decades. Now In 1966 a big step forward was made with the introduction of the 140 series. And then 1975, came the real deal, the 200 series. And for the 200 series Volvo introduced a brand new engine. The redblock engine. The first engine with a red block to be considered a redblock is the B21 and the B21 marks a giant leap forward in terms of technology. The cam in block was gone and replaced with a single overhead camshaft. The gears were replaced with a belt. The head aluminum instead of iron. But make no mistake. Progress did not equal weakness back then. The crankshaft and the rods were beefy and forged. The block was still a big thick heavy chunk of swedish iron and everything else was still made with a big fat margin for safety. So this engine was still a real tank. But unlike the engines that preceded it, it had firepower too. Cmshafts started getting a bit more aggressive. Fuel injection came into play. And then……something beautiful. Turbos. In 1983 were received what can be considered the pinnacle of the redblocks. The b23 turbo engine which was granted to the 700 series. You see turbos make more power but they also stress the engine more. So to ensure that the engine can cope with the stress Volvo made their turbo engine even beefier, despite the fact that their naturally aspirated versions were already more than capable of coping with a turbocharger. So the b23 turbo got forged pistons in addition to the forged crank and rods. And then they made the rods extra thick and beefy. You know just to make sure it’s strong enough. But the 240 wasn’t left out either. It received almost the same engine, only downsized to 2.1 liters. Although its 155 horsepower doesn’t sound like much by today’s standards it propelled the 240 to 60mph in 9 seconds. The car driven by your match teacher was now just as fast as the local redneck’s Z28 or the preppy boy’s 944 all while being more practical, more reliable and far more discrete. But the numbers weren’t enough to convince the masses that a Volve had performance ptenial. The 240 was still perceived as a boring sensible safe car for sensible safe people. So Volvo decided to change their minds. They took their 240 and decided to play things a bit less safe so they cranked up the boost until the engine made 300 horsepower. The redlock engine felt nothing and the flying brick was born. Along the way Volvo also patented a system to spray water into the intake manifold to help prevent engine knock. A car with aerodynamics of a wall came to the track and in 1985 won both the European and the German Car championship. It went on to take many podiums in many events around the world, From Scotland and Portugal to New Zealand. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #iconicengines #volvo

Let’s start with the basics. when you turn the steering wheel the wheels turn, we can all agree on that. In other words, the steering wheel gives you control over your tires. Obviously….but there’s a little asterisk there. Some fine print. The steering wheel does not give you direct control over the entire tire. When you’re turning you’re obviously not able to grab the tire, you can’t just take the outer surface in its entirety and then change its direction of travel. Your steering wheel is not directly connected to the tire. Instead your steering wheel directly operates a small thin rod which is attached to the steering knuckle which is attached to a bearing and a hub which is then attached to the wheel and the tire is then installed on the wheel. I know you’re probably wondering why I’m wasting your time with something so obvious? Well that’s, because it’s extremely important to understand that because you do not have perfect direct control of the tire in its entirety the only thing you can actually do with the steering wheel is to deform the tire and hope that deformation leads to the vehicle going in the desired direction. Now if you have ever been in a car and gone through a corner at some speed you have probably felt how there’s a force acting on your body that’s getting you to lean in the opposite direction of the corner. Obviously this is centrifugal force, the same force that makes this happen…also wants to run you off the road. So if centrifugal force wants to push you off the road, you point the tires in the other direction to go through the corner. But, there’s a catch. When you’re traveling at normal road speeds, the direction where you’re tire is pointing at any moment in time….is not the direction where your car is going. By turning the steering wheel we only turn the wheel and then the wheel deforms the tire. The problem is that the wheel can’t deform all of the tire equally. The contact patch, or the part of the tire that is in contact with the road can’t be twisted by steering inputs. This is because the contact patch is temporarily stuck to the road by the friction between the tire and the road surface. So what your steering inputs do instead is that they twist the tire around the contact patch. So when you make steering inputs the direction in which your tire and wheel point changes but the direction of the tread in the contact patch stays the same. Now during the very brief point of time that it takes the tire to roll through this contact patch, the tire is actually heading in the direction of the contact patch and not in the direction in which you pointed the tire and the wheel with your steering inputs. But because a tire is rolling forward it means that the treads which you deformed or deflected with your steering inputs will all eventually end up in the contact patch too. But the catch is that once they land and become the contact patch, the fact that they are deflected means that they hit the surface offset and pointing in a different direction from the previous contact patch. This also means that if we observe the tire at any point during the corner, the tire is never actually heading in the direction in which you point it with the steering inputs. The tire is always heading in the direction of the contact patch because it’s contacting the road and rolling through only the current contact patch. All the other contact patches are in the air. Now the difference in direction or the angle between the direction in which you point the tire and the direction in which the tire is heading during that moment is called the slip angle. Now the name is a bit confusing and it’s important to understand that the “slip” in the slip angle does not mean that the tire is slipping all over the place or that the vehicle is drifting. It refers to the fact that each tread element or subsequent contact patch of the tire gets slipped laterally ahead of the previous one. Essentially it’s the slip between the direction in which the tire is pointing and the direction in which it’s actually going in that moment. Despite what some YouTube videos may try to convince you, slip angle is not a special driving technique used by cartoon characters and legendary racing drivers. Slip angle is not optional, it’s mandatory because without a slip angle it would be impossible to corner. And that’s because as each tread element gets slipped laterally ahead of the last one we generate a force. This force is known as cornering force. If slip angle equals zero then cornering force also equals zero. If slip angle is zero then you are going perfectly straight. The nice thing is that we can easily observe the cornering force. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #slipangle

Wiring diagram still image: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L9QWVARLJp60e6wf5AbUuBhOiz7ApEFo/view?usp=sharing Wiring diagram editable: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Rh5cyJrGfDmkzI9zL-m-KsulZFeL6aVO/view?usp=sharing Paint.net for editing the diagram: https://www.getpaint.net/ This video is a detailed step by step guide on how to install a standalone ECU. It’s aimed at people with no previous experience doing a job like this and has the goal of demystifying the process. It covers everything including the design of the wiring diagram, tools and supplies, sensors, the wiring process itself as well as the install and physical location of the ECU and associated components. So, let’s get started Now before we start any work on wiring, what we need to do is create a wiring diagram. A wiring diagram is by far the most important part of the job and it will be something that you will be constantly referencing throughout the install. Now regardless of whether you use a flying lead harness or building the harness from scratch you will need some specialized tools. A really helpful tool is a set of wire stripping pliers. They enable you to quickly, neatly and consistently strip wires and this can really save time and effort because you will be stripping a minimum of 100 wires on any standalone install. The next thing you need are crimping pliers suitable for crimping small pins that go onto for thin gauge wires. You can not crimp ECU pins with something like this. The numbers on the pliers correspond to different wire gauges, but this isn’t set in stone and may vary depending on wire insulation thickness and quality. Once you crimp a few pins you will see that the quality of your crimping improves quickly. These are 20 dollar pliers I got from banggood and honestly they worked just fine for me. If you want something a bit better you can use these ones from Molex. Once you’re ready to start wiring it’s a good idea to lay and organize everything on a nice flat surface. It’s also really helpful to out print the wiring diagram for reference on a large format paper because you’lll be looking at this a lot. Now what you’ll essentially be doing during the wiring process is connecting the ECU connector to sensor, injector, coil and other connectors. Basically you’re joining connectors to other connectors. When it comes to connectors you should always first figure out what kind of a connector you’re working with before stripping and crimping anything. Some connectors are known as pull to seat. This means that you first pass the corresponding wire through the connector and only strip and crimp after this. The final step is pulling the wire back until the pin is seated into its slot. Other connectors maybe an opposite process, so you will strip and crimp the wire and then push it into the connector until it’s seated. So definitely check before crimping anything. When it comes to the direction of wiring you have two choices. You can start at the engine end or the ECU end. I decided to start at the engine end. This means that you basically wire up all the sensor connectors and then organize and group all the wires and finally find a suitable place through which you enter the cabin and then connect everything into the ECU connector. I also decided to install my expandable braided wire sleeves at this point although this is not recommended until you’re sure that everything is connected properly and works as it should. I decided to ignore this because the wire sleeving can easily be opened later up for repairs and changes and because I wanted to avoid the extra work of disconnecting everything and then sleeving and then reconnecting. I chose the cabin for the location of the ECU as it’s recommended to keep the ECU away from the temperature fluctuations and vibrations present inside the engine bay. Having the ECU in the cabin is also the most convenient location because you’ll be often hooking up with a USB cable to the ECU for tuning purposes. I bought a suitable sized aluminum plate which I drilled and taped and then painted black. I then simply bolted the ECU together with the relays and the fuse box to the plate. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #projectunderdog

A typical four stroke engine or an Otto cycle engine does intake, compression, combustion and exhaust. The Atkinson cycle and the Miller cycle engines also do intake, compression, combustion and exhaust, however they differ in a small but very important detail which allows them to be significantly more efficient than the Otto combustion cycle. And in this video we will dive back into the history of engines in order to see and learn about the evolution of the combustion engine and the difference between four stroke Otto, Atkinson and Miller cycle engines . The Otto engine as we know it today was invented in 1876 by German Nicolaus August Otto. Although it doesn't seem that way the 1876 engine has many of the elements we see on engines today and is Otto's first true four stroke engine. There's a crankshaft, a connecting rod and even a camshaft. Inside we have a piston and the engine does intake, compression, combustion and exhaust just like any modern engine. Of course Otto's first engine was an instant commercial success and of course Otto patented the design. Now this, the patent, is what brings us to Mr . James Atkinson, who like many of his contemporaries, after seeing the commercial success of the Otto engine, started developing his own engine. Now the catch is that in order to be commercially viable such an engine had to be different enough from Otto's design in order to not infringe on the patent rights. Now Atkinson decided that the compression stroke of the Otto engine was actually something that could be improved upon, and that was to be done by reducing the length of the compression stroke in relation to the length of the combustion stroke, or the expansion stroke as some call it. In other words the engine would spend more time making power than wasting power on compressing the air fuel mixture. In 1957 US engineer Ralph Miller patented the Miller Cycle engine. Now the Miller Cycle engine relies on the same concept as the Atkinson engine and that is to reduce the power sapping effects of the compression stroke. The big deal is that Ralph Miller chose a much simpler and much more elegant solution compared to the extremely complicated set of rods and linkages from Atkinson's original design. And the solution is this: keep the intake valve open longer. That's it. The construction of the engine stays absolutely the same as that of a conventional Otto engine, the only thing that differs is the valve timing. A conventional Otto engine closes the intake valve before the compression stroke begins. This is done in order to ensure that the entire length of the cylinder is used to store and compress the air fuel mixture leading to optimal power output. The Miller engine doesn't close the intake valve when the compression stroke begins. The intake valve is kept open during the first 20-30% of the compression stroke. An open intake valve of course means that the upward motion of the piston simply pushes some of the air fuel mixture back into the intake manifold. The piston can't compress anything until the intake valve closes. In fact in the late 90s Mazda put this exact concept into practice with their KJ-ZEM engine which they installed into the Mazda Millenia / Xedos 9 /Eunos 800. The KJ-ZEM was a supercharger 2.3 V6 running the Miller Cycle. Right after the Mazda Millenia was discontinued Toyota revived the concept behind the Atkinson/Miller cycle. Toyota's foray into this field started in 1997 with the very first generation of the Toyota Prius and it's 1NZ-FXE engine. But this time instead of a supercharger we have an electric motor which is used to make up for the lack of torque and responsiveness. As we know electric motors produce instant torque and they don't sap the power of the engine like superchargers do which means that hybrid drivetrains and the Atkinson cycle are a match made in heaven which was put into practice in all of Toyota's hybrid vehicles. Now another advantage that modern technology has brought is variable valve timing or VVT. This makes it possible to run the engine in the Atkinson cycle only when this is desirable, which reduced load conditions such as highway cruising. Now Toyota's usage of the Atkinson cycle is perhaps the most popular to date, but Mazda definitely hasn't given up and they employed the Miller cycle yet again in a fashion similar to what we have seen in the Mazda Millenia. This time it bears the name Skyactiv-X and in addition to a small roots supercharger and the Miller cycle the Skyactiv X is also the first ever commercial engine to have Spark Controlled Compression Ignition or SCCI. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips 00:00 The road to compression 08:15 Atkinson 14:05 Miller 18:04 Mazda and Toyota #d4a #atkinson #enginebootcamp

Parts prices are listed throughout the video and the total cost breakdown is at the end of the video Check out the brands that made the build possible: https://www.aemelectronics.com/ https://www.weldspeed.com.au/ https://midshipgarage.com/ https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/ https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/ https://gfb.com.au/ Related videos that explain concepts mentioned in this video: Compression ratio: https://youtu.be/1pZqiuaZYGY Knock: https://youtu.be/G5bJlFHKOX0 Turbo basics: https://youtu.be/VpcdYvG0k9M Engine block in-depth: https://youtu.be/FsGwMN9Q0Tk Boost control: https://youtu.be/hYIL_XvlYTE Reflashing vs standalone ECU: https://youtu.be/jGKu6etyLZQ Fuel pump in-depth: https://youtu.be/kVSPLTLVf1Y Exhaust manifold in-depth: https://youtu.be/5nKDNrUz5to Blow-off valves: https://youtu.be/BFXIgME_5UA Transmission rebuild in-depth: https://youtu.be/NT8q2SNLa-g Ring gaps: https://youtu.be/hJBlMMES77I Bearing clearance: https://youtu.be/WEuedVJJgIA Porting in-depth: https://youtu.be/m0pCJC0B3Hk Semi- forged pistons: https://youtu.be/GDMiKFrJmY4 This video is the ultimate guide on how to convert a naturally aspirated vehicle into a turbocharged one. It covers engine internals, the cylinder head, transmission, turbo features and turbo plumbing, fuel delivery, intercooling, ECUs, ignition, heat management and much much more. This isn't a video meant to entertain you, instead it's designed to be a comprehensive reference and the only video you need to watch get a practical, realistic and all encompassing overview of everything that needs to be done to properly, safely and reliably turbocharge your vehicle. Let us start with the heart of the engine. The engine block and its internals. As you will see throughout this video turbocharging an engine will require you to make many choices and these choices are important because we all have a budget and also because they can heavily influence the amount of work you will need to do as well as the ultimate capabilities of your completed engine and of your completed build. These choices are also important because it is impossible to have it all and most of the choices in your build will be compromises. Stuff like power potential vs longevity or power potential vs cost or power potential vs street legality and so on. When it comes to the engine block level 1 would to be simply take your naturally aspirated engine and turbocharge it without opening up the engine or doing anything to the internals or the cylinder head. This has been done many times, and sometimes the results have been pretty good. Turbocharging an engine without opening it up means that you will have to do the least amount of work and spend the least amount of money but your ultimate power potential and longevity will be limited. Also if you're considering turbocharging a tired engine with many miles I would strongly advice against it. You will do a lot of work and invest a lot of time to turbocharge such an engine and the reward you will get from it will in most cases be minimal as such an engine will likely fail soon. Now your level 2 engine internals approach is going to require you to open up the engine and take it apart. My personal opinion is that this is a more sensible approach. Because you'll be investing a lot of your time and money into turbocharging your engine so it's a wise decision to be able to see it's actual condition and to correct any issues you may run into. On the other hand opening up and engine also starts you into a rabbit hole known as "since I'm already in here". Stuff like since I'm already in here I might as well put in some forged rods. Since I'm already in here I might as well port the cylinder head. Since I'm already in here I might as well destroy myself financially. There is a very high number of areas you can address inside an engine and unless you have an unlimited budget than you will have to make choices and sacrifices. The first thing that should be done before making any parts purchases is to check the actual condition of your engine. Your cylinder bores as well as your rods and crankshaft journals. You can do this yourself if you have access to the tools or leave it to a machine shop. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips 00:00 Choices and prep 03:16 Pistons 05:22 Crank and rods 08:46 Cylinder head 12:45 Transmission 14:31 Clutch 15:23 Lubrication 16:22 Turbo manifold 17:22 Turbo sizing 19:02 Turbo plumbing 21:51 Fuel 24:47 Heat management 25:29 Intercoolers 26:28 Blow-off valves 27:11 Ignition 28:50 ECU and sensors 31:32 Drive axels #d4a #boostschool

One day the humans of the very distant future will inevitably discover the remains of an internal combustion engine. One day that which lived by burning fossils will become a fossil itself. The archeologists of the very distant future will carefully dig the fossil up and they will place it in one of their museums. And then museum guides of the future will tell the children of the future how this exhibit represents a remarkably well preserved part of an internal combustion engine. A quaint, inefficient and dirty device that relied on combustion in order to create propulsion. Such a silly concept. But you see….I, as a human of the present, feel a bit sorry for the humans of the future. Because without experiencing internal combustion with all of their six senses they will only see a small part of the picture. They will only know a tiny fragment of the truth They won’t hear the sounds……… Or get a whiff of the smells………. Or feel the sensations……… They will never know the magic. The magic we made with nothing other than a few pieces of metal and some liquefied dinosaurs. Just take a moment to think about the human genious behind internal combustion engines. We’ve been around it so long that we’re taking it for granted. But internal combustion engines are perhaps the greatest living testament to human ingenuity. Someone came onto the idea to seal away fire inside a metal box and then harness the energy of that fire……..thousands of times per minute. It is the ultimate form of fire taming. I’m sure that we made Prometheus proud by achieving so much with the gift he gave us. Internal combustion engines are also one of the greatest living testaments to human perseverance. After we made the concept a reality, we decided to take our inherently complex and imperfect invention and strive for perfection with it. We gave it our all to make it better in every way possible. More reliable. Longer lasting. More resilient. More efficient. More powerful. Cleaner. And our efforts were rewarded generously. Internal combustion engines made our world smaller. They made it possible to move goods all around the world. To reshape and part continents. To reliably venture to the ends of the earth. To conquer land, sea and air. To travel faster than ever before. And to be where we want to be when we want or need to be. But at some point internal combustion engines became so much more than just a utility. They became passion. A part of us and a reflection of ourselves. A canvas upon which we can express our creativity and desire for power, beauty and perfection. So much more than the sum of their parts. Boxes of metal became living entities with a spirit and character of their own. Engines bonded families. Forged friendships. Built communities. We shaped them and they shaped us back. They thought us about the strength needed to get up after a failure and about the importance of believing in our dreams and finding the resolve keep going. They also thought us about the joy and reward of building something with your own two hands and then using that something to propel yourself to wherever you want to go. A bunch of metal parts and some liquefied dinosaurs were also the tool that allowed some of the greatest athletes of all time to demonstrate their skills and amaze the world as well as inspire many generations of future athletes to give it their all and reach for the stars. And I’m sure the liquefied dinosaurs are happy too. Wouldn’t you want your remains to serve a greater purpose millions of years after you’re dead. Imagine your fossil becoming the fuel which allows a racing machine to breathe fire and win races. Isn’t that greater than just rotting under the earth’s crust for all eternity? We were able to do so much on the wings of internal combustion. Experience incredible highs and incredible joy. But after more than a century of friendship it seems that the beginning of the end for our faithful companion is here. The world is changing and facing great challenges and it seems that the sunset of internal combustion has begun and the time to say goodbye is here. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #ice

I have given it my all to try an pack as much information as humanly possible and present them in a simple, coherent and understandable manner with the goal of creating what is the only video anyone needs to watch to learn how a four stroke and a two stroke engine work. The video also covers the differences, benefits and drawbacks of 2 stroke and 4 stroke engines and also answers the question of why the four stroke ultimately prevailed over the two stroke in most applications despite being larger, heavier, more expensive and more complex. Let's start with the four stroke. Why is it called a four stroke? It's because the four stroke engine needs four strokes to complete one combustion cycle. Every time the piston moves from top to bottom............. or vice versa............... that's one stroke. One stroke of the piston equals 180 degrees of crankshaft rotation. Now the four strokes are: intake... compression..... combustion..... and exhaust During the intake stroke the piston travels from top to bottom, which are also known as top dead center and bottom dead center. As the piston does this it creates an empty space or vacuum inside the cylinder. This newly created void is essentially a brief absensce of air, and because we have an abscence of air we also have an abscence of air pressure. In other words we have low air pressure inside the cylinder and atmospheric air pressure outside the cylinder. This air pressure difference cannot continue to exist and air naturally seeks to equalize pressure everywhere, and so air together with fuel from the outside rushes into the cylinder and fills it with a fresh air-fuel mixture. Although cobmustion inside an engine is often described as a bang or explosion, that isn't what's actually happening. An explosion is detonation, which is a rapid uncontrolled process. In contrast to thist, combustion is deflagration, which is a much slower, more even and controlled process. Combustion spreads out evently outward from the spark plug though heat transfer. The small portion of air fuel mixture initially ingited by the spark plug heats up and ignites the next layer of the air fuel mixture until all of the air fuel mixture is burned. As the combustion flame front spreads it rapidly raises the tempreature and pressure inside the cylinder. Because the cylinder is sealed this pressure has nowhere else to go so it ends up pushing the piston down the cylinder with great strength....... This is our combustion stroke and of the four strokes this is the only one that actually generates power and it does so by converting the energy released by combustion into motion of the piston which then turns the crankshaft and ultimately the wheels. By the time the piston reaches bottom dead center again all the air fuel mixture has been burned and we now have ehxuast gas, or the remains of combustion inside the cylinder. Now in the case of the two stroke we have a cylinder head together with the valve cover whereas in the four stroke we really have just a cylinder cover or cap. There are zero moving parts in the 2 stroke head. No valves, no chains, no cams, no springs and therefore less weight, less complexity, less cost and less potential for failure. Each time the 2 stroke piston is at top dead center a combustion event occurs. This also explains the name „two stroke“. The engine only needs two piston strokes to complete its combustion cycle. In other words each 360 degrees or one full engine revolution results in a combustion event. Whereas in a four stroke combustion occurs only every other time the piston reaches top dead center, combustion occurs only every 720 degrees of engine rotation. This means that the two stroke produces twice as many combustion events or power pulses for the same rpm, which means that, at least in theory, the two stroke engine can make twice as much power from the same displacement compared to a four stroke. The other important thing we can note is that the strokes are very clearly defined and separated in a four stroke. Each completed stroke of the piston marks the beggining of one and the end of another stroke of the combustion cycle. But the two stroke sort of lumps the strokes together, they overlap and occur simultanously. The two stroke is actually multi-tasking which enables it to squeeze more action into the same time-frame. But as with everything, there is a price to be paid. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #2stroke #4stroke 00:00 4 stroke combustion cycle 08:02 2 stroke combustion cycle 13:24 Reed valve 15:02 Lubrication 21:12 Compression ratio 23:41 VVT & Power valves 27:18 Direct Injection

Secondary balance: https://youtu.be/TQlyS2rw-sk The inline three is the new inline four. In the last few years we have seen this humble engine configuration become ever more widespread. A 1.0 liter inline three together with a turbocharger has replaced 1.6 or even 2.0 liter inline fours on many cars. An inline three has less cylinders therefore less friction and more efficiency. It’s also of course cheaper to manufacture and easier to package due to the reduced overall length. But when it comes to motorcycles an inline three of course isn’t considered downsizing, seeing that motorcycles on average have less cylinders than cars. Instead inline threes are a mix of luxury and oddity in the motorcycle word, and while there have been some very impressive and iconic motorcycles over the years, the configuration remains uncommon. Now, one of the companies that has definitely done their part when it comes to contributing to increasing the percentage of inline threes is Triumph and in today’s video we will see how their T-plane inline 3 engine (Triumph Tiger 900 and Tiger 1200) abandons decades of established design logic to try and create an engine with a split personality, and we will also see how the T-plane compares to other inline three engines including Yamaha's “crossplane” inline three (aka CP3) engine (MT-09, Tracer, XSR900) If we take a circle which is 360 degrees and divide it by three we will of course get 120. And this the crankshaft configuration that pretty much all inline three cylinder engines employ. We have the crank pins 120 degrees apart from each other which means that we have a piston reaching top dead center every 120 degrees of engine rotation. The result is of course an even firing interval. Now in a four stroke engine we need 720 degrees to complete a full combustion cycle. 180 for intake, 180 for compression, 180 for combustion and 180 for exhaust. To get the firing interval we simply divide 720 by the number of cylinders. The result is 240 and this tells us that the inline three engine fires every 240 degrees of engine rotation. When we sum everything up the traditional inline three is a humble engine but it’s a good deal. It’s overall less smooth than an inline four thanks to a gap between power pulses and worse primary balance but it makes up for it by being more cost effective, more compact and more efficient. But despite this Triumph rejected the traditional good deal offered by the inline three and chose to up-end the logic of this engine. Instead of having of all the crank pins evenly spaced out and separated by 120 degrees they separated them by 90 degrees creating a configuration which looks like the letter T when viewed from the nose of the crankshaft – hence the name T-plane crankshaft. Of course having the crank pins 90 degrees apart means that our even firing interval goes out the window. Instead of firing every 240 degrees of engine rotation the t-plane has an uneven firing interval where we fire cylinder 1 rotate 180 degrees and then fire cylinder 3 after which we rotate 270 degrees to fire cylinder 2 and then again 270 degrees to fire cylinder 1 again. So our firing interval is 180 270 270 and our firing order is 1 – 3 – 2. So why would Triumph chose to take an engine that is barely smooth enough and make it less smooth by employing an uneven firing interval? Well, there are two main reasons behind this. The first one is that an uneven firing interval creates a very distinguished sound character which sets the motorcycle apart from competitors. A specific sound gives the engine a unique character and definitely helps sales. It definitely worked for Yamaha and their crossplane inline four which sounds completely different from any other mass produced inline four. In fact the marketing worked so well for Yamaha that they tried to forcefully trickle down the word crossplane into their engine offerings with fewer cylinders, which is why their inline two and inline three cylinders are called CP2 and CP3….the cp being crossplane. Now I completely understand the need for marketing, brand identity and so on but Yamaha’s CP3 engine is just a conventional inline 3 cylinder engine and it has the same crankshaft configuration as any other inline three. 120 degrees apart for the crank pins and an even firing interval. Calling an inline four crossplane definitely makes sense because all the other inline fours are flatplane. All the crank pins lie in one single plane. But the inline three configuration is naturally crossplane, that’s at the core of the engine’s design. All the other inline 3 on the market are crossplane just like the CP3. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #triumph #tplane 00:00 Conventional i3 firing interval 03:15 i3 Primary balance 07:13 i3 Secondary balance 09:09 T-plane interval and sound 17:26 T-plane primary and secondary

Brake the bank: https://amzn.to/3TLiqnj Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Support d4a: https://driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com/ Never boil: https://amzn.to/3skjG58 Here's an interesting little piece of information. The amount of heat released by an average car during a single braking instance from a speed of 90 km/h is enough to boil two liters of water in just three seconds. All stock systems on all cars today are capable of doing this at least 4-5 times before brake fade starts occurring. This means that you can accelerate from 0 to 90 panic brake to a stop then accelerate to 90 again panic brake again and repeat this cycle at least 4 times before the slightest amount of brake fade can be measured. And even once brake fade starts it will be small and gradual and getting your stock brakes to fade to a point where they can't lock up the wheels and trigger ABS is next to impossible. This means that driving on the street cannot overpower the stock braking system. In fact if you ever need multiple panic brakes in a row while driving on public roads than there's something very wrong with your driving. A lack of braking force does not exist on vehicles. Issue number two is that increasing braking force further cannot reduce your stopping distance. And this is because your tires are the only thing on your car touching the ground...they are the only point of contact between your vehicle and the road surface. Once your overpower the grip that your tires provide there is nothing else left to overpower. Once the tire locks up and starts sliding increasing the brake force further will achieve nothing. Increasing the brake force via increased leverage or increased clamping force cannot increase the grip of the tires. Increasing braking force further cannot reduce your stopping distance. And this is because we already have more than enough braking force to lock up the wheels. The comments on my previous video is make it obvious that many people associate brakes primarily with friction and torque....but a much better approach would be to perceive brakes as heat sinks. This is what they do. They convert the motion of the car or kinetic energy into heat and then dissipate this heat into the surrounding air. Now we're going to compare three different cars to illustrate the extent to which modern cars really don't have an issue with braking. The first one is the Mclaren Senna which is an 800 horsepower hypercar with absolutely amazing brakes state of the art carbon brakes. It has 390mm discs and 6 piston fixed calipers in the front. It gets from 0 to 100km/h in 2.6 seconds. The second car is the Mazda MX-5 ND has 280mm disc brakes and single piston floating calipers in the front. The 2.0 liter model gets from 0 – 100 km/h in just under 7 seconds. The third car is my very own 2009 Toyota Aygo has 247mm discs and single piston floating calipers in the front. It gets from 0-100 km/h in 14.2 seconds. So as you can see we have staggering differences in brake systems and acceleration times. But not so much when it comes to braking distances. The Senna manages to come to a stop from a speed of 100kmh in 30 meters. The ND MX-5 manages 33.8 meters. I did a little test with the Aygo and did 10 panic brakes from 100 km/h and I managed an average of 35 meters. So the McLaren Senna has 57% larger brake discs than the Aygo and has six times the number of caliper pistons. It is also 446% faster from 0 to 60 than the Aygo but it is only 16 % faster from 60 to 0. So why is this the case? Why doesn't a million dollar hyper car dramatically outbreak a cheap little city car? The reason is that technology has long since reached the sensible limit of braking force. Getting to a stop from 100 km/h in 35 meters takes less than 3 seconds and this in turn exposes you to forces of nearly 1G. Which is the limit of what the average driver can sustain on their body and still retain full control of their car. Engineers are more than capable of making vehicles with ridiculous stopping distances. For example the F2004 which is Ferrari's formula 1 car from the 2004 season can come to a stop from 100km/h in just 16 meters. That's more than 2Gs of force. Formula 1 drivers are highly trained athletes capable of taking this load easily. On the other hand 2Gs would make many average drivers loose control of their vehicle. In fact F1 cars can generate as high as 5Gs of force when braking hard from high speeds. That's the sort of deceleration that can make some people pass out. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #bbk #brakes

Brake the bank: https://amzn.to/3TLiqnj Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Support d4a: https://driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com/ Never boil: https://amzn.to/3skjG58 If you have ever considered upgrading your brakes to larger ones and did a bit of research online you have probably found out that, contrary to intuition, bigger brakes won't reduce your braking distance. On the other hand we all know that upgrading to wider tires can improve both your cornering and braking. So the underlying question we're answering today is why does surface area matter with tires but not with brakes. If this is your first time hearing it than you might be surprised to learn that upgrading from stock brakes and calipers to larger brakes and calipers will not reduce your braking distance. This is surprising because intuition tells us that if we increase the surface area of both the brake and caliper than we increase the amount of friction which should improve braking and stop the car faster. But, physics disagrees with intuition and physics says this: F = μN Yes, it's a formula but don't get scared it's the simplest formula there is. And it tells us that F, which is frictional force equals the coefficient of friction which mu or mew different people pronounce it differently, it's a Greek letter times the normal force. So let's explain this a bit. Frictional force is obviously the amount of friction. The higher the frictional force the more friction we need to overcome and the harder it will be to move a certain object. The coefficient of friction is a constant and it depends on the nature of the material and surface roughness. For example sandpaper has a much higher coefficient of friction than glass. Basically the coefficient of friction tells us how friction-y a particular material is. Our normal force is the force acting on the object and pressing it down. In case of a stationary object that force will be the weight of the object pressing it against the surface. As you can see there's no surface area in the formula. Physics doesn't care if the object is on it's side or on it's face. Even if the difference in surface area is extreme the frictional force is the same because the weight of the object is the same and the material is the same no matter how we place the object. Although we increase the number of hills facing each other when we increase the surface area we are also distributing the same force over a larger surface area which means that the hills interlock less, they touch each other less. This is why stabbing yourself with a needle is far more painful than doing the same thing with let's say a bottle. You may apply the exact same force in both scenarios but in the case of the needle all the force is concentrated on an extremely small surface area leading to a much higher pressure. In case of the bottle the force gets distributed over a larger area leading to reduced pressure. The same thing happens with our plank. Friction stays the same because we're offsetting the increased number of peaks with reduced pressure on the peaks since we're distributing the same force over a greater surface area. Ok but then but why do all the fancy sports cars have giant brakes which are obviously so much larger than the brakes on most other cars? The answer is heat or more accurately the prevention of brake overheating. If you observe brakes more closely you will see that almost everything has to do with heat management. For example brakes on cars are tucked in inside the wheels and the body of the car which means that they receive far less airflow than brakes on motorcycles which are sitting directly in the air stream. This is why car brakes are ventilated and motorcycle brakes are not. Ventilation works to try and flush out as much heat out of the brake system as possible. Why is heat such a problem with brakes? Because it leads to brake fade. When brakes overheat a thin layer of gas forms on the surface and this leads to reduced friction and braking performance otherwise known as brake fade. So this formula applies to brakes but it does not apply to tires. Many tests have been done over the years and have proven that wider and larger tires improve braking and cornering performance. The answer is surprisingly obvious. Brakes are solid and rigid.....tires are elastic. They're made from rubber after all. Brakes are not designed to deform or change shape under normal operation. Tires deform and change shape all the time. The loads applied on brake pads and rotors are simple – the brake pad only moves in one direction. The loads applied on tires are very complex and ever-changing A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Pepe Brian Alvarez Peter Della Flora Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Cole Philips #d4a #bigbrakes #tires

In today's video we're doing a very in-depth exploration and comparison of the inline 4, the v4 and the boxer 4 engine. We're exploring and comparing everything from primary and secondary engine balance to firing intervals and rocking couples. We will also see how a boxer 4 is different from a flat non-boxer engine in terms of anatomy and balance. But our deep dive is structured and gradual instead of overwhelming so that you can enjoy the video regardless of your background or prior knowledge. There's also skip points included so that viewers familiar with my engine balance series don't have to watch things that have already been explained in previous videos. As you might already know, primary engine balance has to do with the mass and thus the inertia of the piston when it changes direction. Now to have an engine with good primary balance we have to balance out the forces associated with the piston's inertia. The inline four achieves a perfect primary balance by balancing it out piston inertial forces using the inertial forces of other pistons. So when two pistons go up, two pistons go down. This means we have two forces pointing up and two forces pointing down and so they cancel each other out leading to an elimination of primary vibrations. The boxer 4 also achieves perfect primary balance by using piston masses to balance out other piston masses, it just does it a bit differently compared to the inline four. Instead of having all the pistons in one line, the boxer four splits them into two different banks which are directly opposed to each other which means that the pistons are also opposed to each other The v4 has perfect primary balance too, but it doesn't rely on piston masses to cancel out other piston masses. Instead it uses the crankshaft counterweight to cancel out the mass of a piston. The reason why a V4 engine can do this is precisely because it's a V engine. If it weren't a V engine than the crank counterweight couldn't be used for this purpose. The V4 is a lot more „modular“ compared to inline four and boxer four engines. In fact you could say that inline four and boxer four engines are in a way all the same in terms of their basic anatomy. It's modular in the sense that it's essentially two V-twin engines stuck together. This allows you to have any angle between the two crank pins. The angle can be zero like in the Honda RC30, or 180 degrees like in the Honda VFR800, or 70 degrees like in the Ducati Panigale V4. You can also play around with the degree between the cylinder banks. You can go 90 degrees like Ducati, or 70 degrees like the Yamaha Vmax or 65 degrees like the Aprilia RSV4. But no matter what you do, because of the V configuration anatomy, you can't have two pistons be at top dead center at the same time if you put two connecting rods on one crank pin. This means that you're always going to have an uneven firing interval. Now in the case of the inline four 4 the firing interval is regular or even....but the downside to this is that it can't be anything else. In the case of the v4 the firing interval may always be uneven, but the upside is that we can play with it and create different firing intervals resulting in different engine character, sound and power delivery which can be tailored to match different applications. When it comes to secondary balance the inline four obviously has the most problems because all the forces point upwards all the time leading to noticeable secondary vibrations. But there's good news and there's bad news when it comes to secondary balance. The good news is that the magnitude is only about one quarter that of primary balance but the bad news is that secondary vibrations occur twice per engine revolution compared to only once for primary vibrations. The v4 and the boxer 4 have better secondary balance than the inline four but it's still not perfect. In the v4 the pistons don't oppose each other so the secondary forces can't cancel out, but they also can't stack up like in the inline four. The separation between the two bank angles means that the secondary forces from each piston merge into a single resultant force. The magnitude is about 1.4 times that of a single cylinder, and then playing with the offset between the crank pins the v4 essentially "dilutes" secondary vibrations which means that it doesn't need a balance shaft. Now the boxer 4 seems like it might have a perfect secondary balance because we have forces of equal magnitude but opposite direction. But due to the offset between cylinders the boxer four has a secondary rocking couple. But at least it's better than a flat 4 engine which has a massive primary rocking couple. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Nelson 00:00 Primary balance 04:53 Firing interval 10:59 Secondary balance 15:02 Rocking couples 20:20 Which is best? #d4a #enginebalance

AEM boost controllers: http://bit.ly/D4AtruboostX AEM ECU: http://bit.ly/D4Ainfinity5 AEM digital racing dash display: http://bit.ly/D4Acddash Support d4a: http://driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com/ In today's episode we're talking about twin turbo setups and we will be doing a detailed explanation and comparison of three different setups. Parallel, sequential and compound twin turbo setups. No, sequential and compound turbo are not the same thing and I will explain how the two differ. But first, the basics. Why would you ever use two turbos over one? After all a single turbo does the job just fine. It hooks up to the exhaust manifold where it relies on the heat energy of the engine's exhaust to spin up the turbine wheel which is directly connect to the compressor wheel which suck in air compresses it and sends it into the engine to be burned together with the fuel. But as with most things in life, there's a compromise and that's the turbo size choice. Naturally you would assume that a larger turbo makes more power than a smaller turbo, all other things being equal, and you would be correct. But a larger turbo also needs more heat energy to be spooled up to generate it's maximum boost. Although it may sound weird a parallel twin turbo setup is in reality very similar to a single turbo setup, just with twice the turbos. You will find parallel turbo setups most often on v6 and v8 engines. A classic and well known example is the twin turbo V6 engine on the Nissan GTR R35. A parallel turbo features two turbocharger of equal size operating completely independently. This means that each is hooked up to a separate exhaust manifold and each has it's own waste-gate. Exhaust gasses are not diverted from one turbo to the other in any scenario. Each turbo also has it's own intake piping. The intake piping from the two turbos may join before or after the intercooler or it may not join at all, instead each turbo may be feeding a separate intake manifold. Now when it comes to V6 and V8 engines a parallel setup has many benefits. The first benefit is that dramatically simplified and reduced exhaust piping. So then why are all the 2jz, RB, LS and other engines which are often used for making big power all running big single turbos and not twin turbos? Well the main reason behind this is that OEMs have incredible R&D capabilities at their disposal and prioritize driveability whereas car enthusiasts do not. What I'm trying to say is that the big single is the easiest setup to get right when chasing big power. However, twin turbo setups still face the same compromise of the single turbo. While they ease packaging costs and help preserve responsiveness and efficiency by allowing shorter and simpler piping they ultimately can't escape the turbo size choice compromise, they're just splitting it in half. But a sequential twin turbo setup promises to achieve both, a very low boost threshold and great low rpm performance together with power at the top. Originally invented for the Porsche 959 to get rid of the sudden onslaught of boost present in previous Porsche Turbo models the sequential system gets rid of the compromise by spooling up the turbos in sequence, so one after the other instead of both at the same time. A common misconception is that a sequential turbo system consists of one small and one large turbo. This doesn't have to be the case and a sequential turbo system can feature two turbos of the same size. What makes a system sequential is not the size of the turbos, but rather the fact that they are spooled and after the other and not at the same time as in the parallel system. Now this is where all the confusion begins because the terms compound and sequential are often used interchangeably and they're really not interchangeable because not every sequential system is compound but every compound system is sequential. The way to differentiate between the two is this. In a system that is only sequential we have one turbo spooled before the other but both turbos feed into the intake manifold of the engine. In a sequential compound system one turbo is spooled before the other but one turbo also feeds into the other turbo, and one turbo is always larger than the other. Proper compounding cannot be achieved with two turbos of the same size. So how does the system work? Well we have two turbos, one small and one large different people will call different turbos primary and secondary so you can largely ignore that distinction. What you have to remember is that the smaller turbo is always the high pressure turbo and the large turbo is always the low pressure turbo and the large turbo always feeds into the smaller turbo. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Nelson #d4a #boostschool #twinturbo 00:00 The problem with singles 03:06 Parallel 09:39 Sequential 15:00 Compound

Get Surfshark VPN at https://Surfshark.deals/DRIVING4ANSWERS and enter promo code DRIVING4ANSWERS for 83% off and 3 extra months for FREE + Antivirus for the whole 27 months! Which shape is the best shape for sealing something? And it doesn't matter what you're sealing; water, air, combustion, coolant, oil. The answer is: a circle. Why? Because it's the simplest and most uniform shape of all. Wherever sealing is important chances are very high that you will find a circular shape. So here's another question for you: if I know that a circle is best for sealing than Honda's engineers certainly know it too. So why did Honda invest an absolutely incredible amount of time, money and human resources into trying to reinvent the wheel by developing an oval piston engine? To properly answer that question we need to process a cocktail of history, mechanics and human persistence. The year is 1960 and Honda has started a very ambitious campaign to dominate the world of motorcycle racing. They soon started winning races left and right with their motorcycles equipped with four stroke engines. But by the mid-sixties most manufacturers and racing teams jumped on the band-wagon of switching to two stroke engines for their racing efforts. But despite the two stroke trend Honda remained faithful to four stroke engines. Founder Soichiro Honda is famous for disliking two strokes engines, a sentiment he spread throughout the company. But Honda did more than remained faithful to four strokes, they kept trailblazing and pushing forward in the field and by 1966 they did what no other manufacturer managed to do before, and that is to score podiums in every of the five different classes. The RC166 perhaps best exemplifies how far Honda managed to push the four stroke. Inline six, four cams, 24 valves all miniaturized to 250cc in an age before CAD and CNC. So in 1966 Honda proved their point. Their four stroke engines featured clockwork precision, they were amazing and perhaps most importantly, they could outperform two stroke engines. So with nothing left to prove in 1967 Honda decided to retire from motorcycle grand prix racing and instead focus on the development of mass-produced cars. Instead of chasing power and speed Honda started chasing economy and environmental responsibility. In 1973 Honda introduced the CVCC-equipped Civic model, becoming the first carmaker to offer a model in full compliance with the U.S. Clean Air Act passed by the U.S. Congress. But soon Honda would see that without racing there is no drive to create new and competitive technology to beat the competition. Without racing there is no suitable environment where you can test and prove these new technologies. By 1977 Honda had realized they would end up lagging behind other manufacturers in terms of technology and innovation, so they announced their return to the World Motorcycle Grand Prix. But during Honda's absence, things had changed . Two stroke engines were now the norm in grand prix racing. Four strokes simply couldn't keep up anymore. Despite obvious advantages of the two stroke Honda decided to once again remain faithful to their four strokes and try to beat the competition on an uneven playing field right after coming out of a decade long hibernation. So they quickly started putting together a large team of staff which was to work on the NR project. NR being „new racing“. The team figured out that beating a two stroke with a four stroke of equal displacement meant that the four stroke needed to rev twice as high. Now to rev to ridiculous rpm you need to make it possible for the engine to take in and push out massive amounts of air very very quickly. But fortunately for Honda the world motorcycle grand prix rule book only said 500cc and 4 cylinders without explicitly defining what they meant by „cylinder“. But Honda was crazy enough to pursue a non-cylindrical cylinder. So they came up with this: if the cylinder was oval instead of round than you could fit more valves into it and sustain the airflow needed to generate 23.000 rpm. Of course an oval piston with an oval cylinder was something no one ever attempted before and thus Honda found itself in completely uncharted territory. Chasing the dream of a V4 with 4 oval pistons and 32 valves all packed into only 500cc. "When I look back at it, I'm not sure if we were experimenting with cutting-edge technologies or obsessed with foolish ideas," are the words Toshimitsu Yoshimura, an engineer involved in the development of the NR500 oval piston engine. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Nelson #d4a #ovalpiston #nr750 00:00 Why reinvent the wheel? 02:53 Pushing the four stroke further 08:55 Making the impossible possible 13:11 The limit of persistence 15:53 Failure is not the opposite of success

Dial indicator with stand: https://amzn.to/3QEktIo Degree wheel: https://amzn.to/3pjdc5e Crankshaft adapter: https://amzn.to/3bTYvCw Complete degreeing kit: https://amzn.to/3dt3Yk6 This video is a detailed, beginner friendly step by step guide on how to degree your camshafts on a double overhead cam engine. The process of degreeing involves measuring various camshaft specs such as duration, lift, intake valve opening and intake valve closing, and then adjusting the camshaft to to its optimal position in relation to the crankshaft based on those specs with the goal of extracting maximum performance Camshafts should be degreed if you have decked the head or the block as this can distort camshaft timing and reduce performance. Camshafts must be degreed if you have purchased aftermarket performance cams. Camshaft degreeing can help prevent assembly error and piston to valve contact We will be doing the degreeing process on a Toyota 4AGE 16v engine. But the process is virtually identical on any other double overhead cam engine As you can see our engine is pretty much bare and we have also removed the crankshaft pulley as well as the intake and exhaust. We will be rotating the engine a lot during the degreeing process so it’s mandatory that we remove the spark plugs first. In order to degree the camshaft we of course need to access the camshaft, and to do that we need to remove the cam cover. I will be demonstrating the degreeing process on the intake cam only but the procedure is identical for both the intake and exhaust. In order to properly perform the degreeing we will need a few special tools. The first one is a degree wheel. The second one is a dial indicator with an extension. As you can see my indicator is equipped with a DIY extension. Although ready-made extensions of different lengths for dial indicators can be purchased in stores or online they are almost always useless for degreeing cams on DOHC engines. An important note when it comes to dial indicators. Make sure to get a dial indicator that has enough measuring range. A dial indicator with 10mm of range will be suitable for most camshafts as most have between 7 and 10mm of lift. The first thing we are going to do is attach the degree wheel. I’m fortunate enough that the hole in my degree wheel is smaller than my crankshaft but larger than my crankshaft pulley bolt as I can simply bolt the degree wheel directly onto my crankshaft. If this weren’t possible I would have to either purchase or make some sort of adapter. Once the degree wheel is on we are going to find true top dead center, or the highest point of the piston’s travel. Although most engines have markings to indicate when the piston of cylinder 1 is at top dead center, these markings aren’t necessarily 100% accurate and they’re usually below the accuracy and resolution level needed for camshaft degreeing. Now we’re going to be turning the engine while closely watching the dial indicator. When the needle starts moving it means that the piston has made contact with the tip of the extension. We’re looking for the point when the needle stops and changes direction. Correctly placing the measuring tip onto the valve shim is by far the trickiest part of the cam degreeing procedure. This usually isn’t straightforward and a bit of trial and error is needed until the proper placement is achieved. The extension tip must not slide across the shim and it must not make contact with the camshaft lobe or the camshaft stem. If any of this occurs the readings will be inaccurate. In order to achieve accurate readings the angle of the extension must be the same or at least close to the angle of the valve and the shim upon which it rests. Unfortunately this is impossible with a straight attachment because it results in contact between the attachment and the camshaft stem. And this is where the welding stick DIY extension comes in. You can easily bend it a bit to achieve correct placement on the shim without contacting the camshaft stem. Once we have achieved the correct placement we can proceed to measuring the cam specs. We will first measure camshaft lift which determines how much the camshaft opens the valve and then we will measure camshaft duration in order to find out how long the camshaft keeps the valve open, or off its seat. Even if you know these values from your cam card it’s a good idea to verify them. It’s definitely a good idea to measure lift and duration and degree the cams in case you purchased an engine with unknown cam specs. By measuring lift and duration you can verify whether the cams are stock or aftermarket and see exactly how aggressive or mild the cams are and whether they are well matched to the rest of the engine. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Nelson #d4a #camshaft #degreeing d4a is part of the amazon associates program

Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Support d4a: https://driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com/ In this video we're talking about the hidden meaning and the amazing stories behind the logos of famous car maker brands. We're covering a total of 26 logos in alphabetical order. As this is a long video I split the logos into chapters so you can either pick the ones you're interested or easily pick up from where you left off if you don't have the time to watch the video in one go: 00:00 Alfa Romeo 02:53 Alpina 03:39 Audi 04:29 BMW 05:06 Buick 05:49 Cadillac 06:16 Citroen 07:22 De Tomaso 08:07 Ferrari 09:35 Hyundai 10:03 Koenigsegg 10:43 Maserati 11:06 Mazda 13:14 Mercedes 14:26 Mitsubishi 15:15 Nissan 16:31 Peugeot 17:13 Porsche 18:01 Rolls-Royce 19:57 Rover 20:49 Skoda 21:22 Subaru 22:28 Tesla 22:52 Toyota 23:38 Vauxhall + Opel 24:35 Volvo I'm sure you know the stories behind some of these famous car maker logos but I bet you don't know them all and if you watch the video you'll learn why Alfa Romeo has an arab eating snake on it, why BMW's logo isn't a propeller despite their aircraft making past, what Ferrar has to do with Francesco Baracca, Italy's greatest fighter pilot. You'll also learn about Ahura Mazda, Mercedes Jellinek, NIhon SANgyo, Peugeot saws and coffee grinders and about all Dr Engineer honoris cause Ferdinand Porsche. You'll learn about the secret love affair behind Rolls-Royce's Spirit of Ecstacy and the Native American hidden in the Skoda logo. And did you know that Tesla's logo is a cat nose? That Toyota's logo hides a few genious details? That Volvo's logo is rolling iron and that Vauxhall come's from Falkes' hall? A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Nelson

Tools for your bike: https://amzn.to/3J7kIcz Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Support d4a: https://driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com/ In today's video I'll be showing you how to replace motorcycle steering head bearings. These are the bearings that sit under your triple clamps and on your steering stem and connect your steering head to the steering tube in the frame of your motorcycle. Over time and after thousands of miles or kilometers steering stem bearings can get worn and/or rusty and this will negatively impact your handling, if the bearings have deteriorated enough they can become a safety hazard. I'll be showing you how to replace these bearings without the use of special tools. I'm doing it because where I live special tools needed for this job can't be rented. They can only be special ordered and their total cost can only be justified by professionals. Before you decide to try and replace the steering head bearings make sure to verify that they are indeed faulty. Elevate your motorcycle and make sure it's stable. Steer your motorcycle slowly and gently. If your steering head bearings need replacing you will notice a particular spot where the steering head sort of „catches“ or snags a bit. This is the are where the bearing has worn grooves and the balls inside the bearing want to stay in this grooves. In order to access the bearings we will need to remove the front forks. First we are going to unbolt and remove the front calipers and move them aside so they're not in the way. Next we're disconnecting the speedometer cable. After that we're going to unbolt the handlebar. Before you actually do this it's a good idea to make markings on the handlebar towers and the bar itself so that you can return the handlebar to the same position. Once this is done we are going to unbolt the forks from the triple clamps. Access to the lower triple clamp bolts is often poor if your motorcycle has fairings and rounding out these bolts can be very bad news. So it's often best to be safe and remove the fairings so that you can get proper access to the bolts and use a more suitable tool. Since the forks are out you can use this opportunity in case you want to install something like rubber shock covers / fork covers. After that we can remove the large triple clamp nut on the upper clamp. Once the nut is off you can remove the top clamp. Underneath you will find the preload adjusting nut. If you don't have the special wrench you easily remove this using a hammer and screwdriver. Once the adjusting nut is off you can remove the dust seal and the top bearing, and pull out the lower triple clamp together with the steering stem. We'll be replacing the bearings with tapered roller bearings. Rollers are what can be found on most modern bikes and they are usually a better and more durable choice because the larger surface area of the rollers is better at absorbing and distributing loads. First we will remove the old bearing seats from the steering tube on the frame. Slowly and evenly knock them out from the opposite end using a long rod or similar tool. Once the old seat is out, clean the area and install a new seat by slowly hammering it in using a socket that is just slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the new bearing seat. Repeat the same procedure on the lower bearing race. Next we need to remove the bearing from the steering stem. This is often the trickiest part of the procedure when you don't have the special tools. Start with a sharp chisel and slowly hammer it into the gap between the triple clamp and the bearing. This should lift up the bearing slightly and allow you to deform it. In some cases you will be able to knock the bearing away and be done but sometimes this isn't possible and you will have to resort to an angle grinder to cut the bearing. Obviously be careful not to damage the steering stem. Now we can install the new bearing. First install the new dust shield and make sure it's properly centered. Then install the bearing by gently hammering it down using a screwdriver to contact the inner race of the bearing. Never hammer the outer race in anyway, this will damage the bearing and you will have to get a new one. Once the bearing is installed we can install install the lower clamp and stem from below. The upper bearing goes next. Don't forget to use the provided grease to grease the bearing. Once the bearing is in finish things off with the upper dust shield and adjusting nut. Final adjustments to the preload are best made once you first test ride the bike. At this stage just hand tighten the nut to the point where turning moving the lower triple clamp doesn't immediately loosen the nut. Test to see how everything feels. The steering should move freely with the slightest of input. If it feels too tight, loosen then preload nut. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Nelson #d4a

Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Support d4a: https://driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com/ Official patent: https://patents.google.com/patent/US6745730B2/en RC211V model: https://amzn.to/3PSE9Yv In 2002 Honda introduced the RC211V motorcycle to MotoGP, the highest level of motorcycle racing in the world. The bike was a response to the chaning rules of Moto GP and replaced Honda's previous contender, the iconic two stroke NSR500. Now the big deal about the new bike is that it's engine was something that no one had ever seen before, a V5. I mean over the decades we have been conditioned into thinking that a V engine must have an even number of cylinders, V2, V4, V6, V8, V10, V12. And Logically it makas sense....we have two banks of cylinders and both banks have the same number of cylinders which means that neither bank is generating more force than the other bank leading to a well balanced engine. The general public was so puzzled by the V5 engine, which has 3 cylinders in one bank and 2 cylinders in the other that soon rumors spread claiming that the bank with two cylinders had larger bores and larger pistons to restore balance. This of course wasn't the case, all pistons and bores are of the same size. But even to this day, many people believe that a V5 engine is impossible and would self-destruct in operation. However Honda proved this wasn't the case, not only did the engine NOT self-destruct, it revved continuously and reliably to 14.000 rpm, and it did it it's job so well that it helped Honda win three rider and four constructor world championships. In fact the bike won 48 out of 82 races, it won more than half of all the races it entered, which is an extremely impressive statistic for MotoGP and even more impressive for an engine that should self-destruct according to layman logic. How do you make a V5 work? Well the answer is pretty simple....you make it work by building an unbalanced V4 and then using the extra piston to balance things out. So how do you unbalance a V4? Well that's easy, you loose the 90 degree angle between the banks that allows the counterweights to keep things balanced. This why Honda gave their V5 an angle of 75.5 degrees between the two banks. The added bonus of this is that it makes the engine even more compact and allows the wheelbase of the motorcycle to be shorter which improves handling response. But why exactly 75.5 degrees? Why not 80 or 70 or whatever else. Well the answer to that is that 75.5 is the point at which the piston of an internal combustion engine is at or near it's maximum velocity. And why is this important? Well to understand that we have to observe the V5 engine in action. As you can see Honda's V5 is essentially a V4 with zero degrees offset between the two common crank pins, and an unpaired piston on a single crank pin between the two piston pairs. As we know the angle between the two banks is 75.5 degrees and the crank pin of the unpaired piston is offset by 104.5 degrees from the center-line of bank 1 when the engine is in this position. These angles result in the forces created by the engine canceling each other out. See video for actual detailed explanation with graphics. One more final side-point just in case someone is wondering. No, the engine called V5 by Volkswagen does not work like the one we just discussed. As far as I know the V5 in Honda's RC211V is the only one of it's kind and it was never mass produced, it was made only to compete in Moto GP. What Volkswagen calls V5 isn't really a V5, a much more appropriate name for it would be VR5, in the same fashion as their VR6 engine. Honda's V5 is a true V engine with two cylinder heads and two sets of camshafts, cam gears, etc. Volkswagen V5 is just like a VR6 but with one cylinder less, meaning that we have only I believe only 15 degrees between the banks, one cylinder head, one set of cams etc. And just like the VR6 has balance very similar to an inline 6, so too does VW's „V5“ have very similar balance to an inline 5 A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Nelson 00:00 MotoGP champion 02:43 The role of the counterweight 04:37 The magic of a 90 degree V 07:00 Velocity and acceleration 10:42 Balancing using imbalances 15:20 Volkswagen "V5" #d4a #v5 #enginebalance

Just a little clumsy and unpolished video that I put together where I wanted to sum up some of thoughts and feelings that formed over a few little adventures I took during the last couple of months. Overall riding my second first bike, my little dual sport/ small adventure bike the Honda NX250 (Dominator) has been incredibly entertaining and eye opening. It turned out to be some much more than just learning to ride, instead it turned into a journey that's teaching me not just about the world around me, but about myself as well. Thanks for watching. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Nelson #d4a #adventureriding

Get Surfshark VPN at https://Surfshark.deals/DRIVING4ANSWERS and enter promo code DRIVING4ANSWERS for 83% off and 3 extra months for FREE + Antivirus for the whole 27 months! I like reading the comments to my videos. I spend a minimum of one hour each day reading comments because I see them as a very valuable qualitative insight into what people think about my content, what they like or dislike and what they would like to see in the future. The comments section is also often a great source of video ideas. But recently I am being driven out of the comments section because its getting frustrating to read the same type of comment over and over. So today I'm doing this video which is a collective response to all these comments and a very simple and objective explanation of why EVs are not around the corner and why internal combustion is not dead and won't be dead any time soon. Now before we begin I feel that it's very important that I say something first and that is that I am in no way against electric vehicles and that I do not believe that internal combustion is a permanent and future-proof solution to human mobility. What I do believe is that the challenges present in humanities future are substantial and extremely complex, however believing that an aggressive push for the electrification of mobility will resolve these challenges is incredibly short-sighted. Refueling a combustion car to 100% takes between 2-7 minutes and gives you an average range of around 500km (310.6 miles). If the vehicle is a diesel the range is usually around 700km or more. At the extreme end of the scale we of course have combustion vehicles whose ranges easily exceed 1200km. Now according to the USA Federal Highway Administration - Department of Transportation the average american drives 14,263 miles or 22.954 kilometers. The average EU citizen drives 7021 miles or 11.300 km every year. Now if we take the average between USA and EU to be the global average this gives us 10642.224 miles or 17.127 km per year. Now let's forget our optimistic 2 minute gas station stop. Let's say that we spend 7 minutes at the gas station every time. The end result is that the average citizen of planet earth spends 239.8 minutes or 3.99 hours every year refueling the average combustion car. Now the average current electric car adds around 3.5 miles or 5.6km of range for 1 minute of charging. But let's forget the average. Let's take this. A Porsche Taycan turbo. It costs around 150.000 $ or 160.000 EUR and while it definitely doesn't have an actual turbo it can add 14 miles or 22km of range for 1 minute of charging if you can find a level 3 charger. This means that if you're an owner of a Taycan turbo that only charges on level three chargers you will spend 12.9 hours each year charging your Porsche. This means that if all of our cars somehow magically turned into Taycans and all of our gas stations magically turned into level three chargers we would still spend more than three times as much time recharging as refueling leading to large waiting lines on all the charging stations. Which means that we need more than three times as many level three charging stations as we currently have gas stations. So charging stations won't work. Well there's an easy fix for that let's all charge at home. Well that's why we're here. Can you imagine every car here having a charging station for itself? Because that's what you need to guarantee that everyone can go to work tomorrow. And all of them have to work. All the time. Again imagine the amount of cables, labor and maintenance needed to make that happen for just this one single residential area alone. And there's millions of residential areas like this around the world. Getting them all equipped with charging stations is an even more massive undertaking than building three times more level three charging stations than gas stations. Now I know what you're saying, charging times and ranges are improving all the time so all of these statistics don't matter. Yes, battery technology is advancing, but it's not doubling in capacity or charging times every year. It's improving a little at a time. And remember, we're basing our whole scenario on a very expensive luxury car . It will take some time for the taycan's specs to become the industry average. It took us almost a century to increase the average horsepower output of a car from 26hp in 1930 to 128hp in 2018. It also took us a century to build the infrastructure to support combustion cars. The roads, the workshops, the gas stations. Even something that's relatively simple in comparison such as increasing a usb stick's capacity from 8MBs to 256 GB took a decade. Big changes take time. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Nelson #d4a #bev #ice 00:00 The comments 02:22 The logistics 10:59 The statistics 18:23 The pessimistic

So what is the octane rating of fuel? The octane rating of fuel is actually an indicator of just one single thing and that is the fuel’s ability to resist detonation or knock. That’s it. The octane number has nothing to do with the energy content of fuel nor it’s impact on the power output of the engine. The octane rating is also only relevant for gasoline engines because gasoline engines compress air and fuel together and then ignite the compressed mixture using a spark plug. When we compress air we we bring the air molecules closer together causing them to bump against each other more which then increases the temperature of air. And if we compress it enough to raise the temperature enough this can then lead to the spontaneous ignition of the air fuel mixture which is independent of the action of the spark plug. This spontaneous ignition of the air fuel mixture is also known as detonation or knock. It’s an uncontrolled event which can damage the engine if it’s strong enough or persists long enough and hence must be avoided. So if your engine requires let’s say regular 87 octane fuel and you put in premium 94 octane in it simply means that you’ve increased the knock resistance of the fuel inside your engine. but this does nothing because your engine is designed for 87 octane and wasn’t knocking in the first place. In other words you’re increasing protection against a non-existant risk. The only time when a higher octane might have helped is if there was something actually wrong with your engine which was causing it to knock. Your ecu detects the knock through the knock sensor and then retards ignition timing to stop the knocking which reduces engine performance. You then pour in the premium fuel which prevents the knocking and your ECU restores normal timing. In this case the higher octane fuel didn’t give you any additional performance but only restored original performance by acting as a band-aid fix for the fault inside your engine. In fact on most modern engines this scenario is impossible because knocking would trigger a check engine light or even limp-mode and engine performance could not be restored without resetting the codes regardless of the fuel you put into the engine. The reality of things is that putting in high octane fuel in a normally operating engine that doesn’t need high octane fuel actually reduces the performance of that engine. And this is because a higher octane number doesn’t just increase knock resistance, it also usually leads to a lower flame speed of the combustion and this can lead to reduced performance. Now diesel engines don’t have spark plugs and they only compress air which means that the octane rating is irrelevant for diesels. Diesel engines introduce fuel into the combustion chamber only when the air has been compressed sufficiently to be hot enough to ignite the fuel. This is why the tendency to self-ignite under heat and pressure is actually desirable for diesel fuels and the reason why they use a completely different rating called the Cetane number which measures this. So how is the octane number of fuel even measured? Well it’s measured using a special machine which is essentially a little single cylinder four stroke engine, as you can see here’s the cylinder and here we have the valve springs, but what makes it different from real engines is that it has a variable compression ratio. The compression ratio of the engine is the ratio between the largest and the smallest volume of the cylinder, in order words it’s the ratio between the total cylinder volume when the piston is at bottom dead center and when it is at top dead center. The compression ratio of an engine is fixed and can’t be changed when the engine is running. To change it you have to take the engine apart and make mechanical changes to it’s internals to change the compression ratio. For example installing a piston with a large dome is going to decrease both the smallest and the largest cylinder volume leading to an increased compression ratio. The higher the compression ratio the more we compress and heat up the air fuel mixture leading to higher chances of knock. This is why high compression ratio gasoline engines need higher octane fuels. Another important factor is the presence of forced induction. A turbo or supercharger also compresses the air and pushes it into the engine which means that forced induction also contributes to increased air temperatures and increased chances for knock. So the compression ratio of a real engine is fixed but it’s not fixed for our octane rating test engine. Older versions of these machines featured a manual handle which raises or lowers the height of the cylinder head thus changing the compression ratio of the engine while it’s in operation. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini Nelson #d4a #octane #gasoline

Let’s say that you want a car part that’s strong. Something that needs to consistently and reliably survive massive forces. How massive, well, let’s say around 100.000 newtons. But how much is a 100.000 newtons…..well to put into perspective an average person like myself can throw a punch with a force of about 1000 newtons. An average sledgehammer blow is around 5.000. So 100.000 newtons is 20 times stronger than a sledgehammer blow. And that's roughly the force to which engine internals are subjected thousands of times per minute when the engine is revving and under load. To ensure that connecting rods can survive the violent loads inside the engine we usually make them from steel. But sometimes we also make them from aluminum. Now steel is strong. A high grade alloy like 4340 steel can survive a load or stress that is equivalent to nearly 75.000 newtons exerted on every square centimeter of the part before breaking apart. Aluminum isn’t as strong and even high grade alloys like 6061 or 7075 can only manage a maximum of 55.000 newtons per square centimeter. Now carbon fiber is completely is in a league of it’s own….it can survive 250.000 newtons per square centimeter before breaking. Now here’s the interesting thing we actually put rods from the weakest material here, aluminum, into the most extreme engines out there which generate the highest loads and have the highest chances of destroying their internals. Why? Well that’s because aluminum is lighter than steel. But aluminum plays a price for it’s low weight and the price is longevity. So with metals we have to compromise, we can either have low weight OR long life, we can’t have both. Now let’s look at carbon fiber again. Just like it blows steel out of the water in terms of strength it blows aluminum out of the water in terms of weight. So carbon fiber is the absolute champ? It’s super strong, it’s super light and it has no real fatigue life issues. So if it’s the best material out there why are there zero mass produced engines with carbon fiber internals and zero aftermarket carbon fiber rods you can purchase today? I mean we make wheels, car chassis, spoilers and so many other things from it. Why not engine internals if they offer so many benefits? Here’s the first issue. Carbon fiber does not exhibit isotropic properties. When a material is isotropic it exhibits pretty much the same mechanical and thermal properties in all its parts. For example this block made from steel is equally strong everywhere. Applying the load here or here will have the same results in terms of the amount of force required to deform or break the block. But carbon isn’t like this. Carbon fiber isn’t isotropic, it’s orthotropic in other words it’s a bit like a wood. Parts made from carbon fiber can’t be one solid chunk as is the case with metals. Another major problem is the manufacturing process. If you wish to make strong carbon fiber parts you really have only two options. Using dry carbon fiber layers and then bonding them manually together by brushing or rolling resin onto them or by using prepreg. Advanced manufacturing process than involve an autoclave which exposes the part to both high pressure and high temperatures during the curing process to ensure the best possible part uniformity and surface finish. And as you can see this process of manual stacking of layers, long curing times and the high cost of the raw material itself explains why carbon fiber parts are so expensive. Another issue is that this type of manufacturing process can be very difficult to apply on parts with complex and intricate shapes. But in 2010 at the Paris Motor Show Lamborghini unveiled something called the Sesto Elemento, a striking limited production run race car. It’s name means “the sixth element”, which is the atomic number of carbon and indeed the car’s chassis, body, drive shaft and suspension components are all made from carbon fiber, but it wasn’t the first to have so many parts made from carbon fiber, instead it was the first to feature something called Forged composites. A brand new unique "forged "carbon fiber manufacturing process which was employed in the tub and suspension arms of the car. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini #d4a #carbonfiber 00:00 Carbon fiber vs steel vs aluminum 10:29 "Forged" carbon fiber 16:46 I contacted Lamborghini and other pioneers

Three days - three bikes. A Yamaha TZR 125 R, a Ducati 900ss and Honda NX250 Dominator. Each one an eye opener for a beginner rider. My first bike, the TZR, is considered the wrong first bike by many and today I'd like to explain why I think there's really no such thing as a "right" first bike and that making mistakes is a good thing. Also in this video I'm talking about the premature demise of the engine on the tzr125, the humbling experience of riding a brutal air-cooled Ducati and the first ride on my new bike. The all-rounder dual sport/mini adventure bike from the 90s that came before its time but is a real gem. I also take that bike on my first ever attempt at off-roading (with -on road tires). We also fry some sausages and do other stuff. Let's hang out. Phone mount: https://amzn.to/3y18zlT Backpack: https://amzn.to/3krtiaz Best selling helmets: https://amzn.to/3s30edu Best selling jackets: https://amzn.to/3LDTMl1 A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini #d4a #newbieriderdiaries #nx250 Driving 4 answers is part of amazon associates

What is up engine heads, it’s time for another episode of iconic engines. It’s been a while hasn’t it. Well today we’re back with a European giant. And no, it’s not a giant engine, at only 1.8 liters and 4 cylinders it’s one the smaller end of the scale, but it’s a giant in the sense of the incredibly important role it has played and continues to play in the European, Brazilian, UK and a few other non-US tuning and aftermarket modification scenes. The VAG 1.8t 20V may have graced the engine bay of what many consider to be the most disappointing Volkswagen Golf GTI ever, but it’s accessibility, ease of tuning and power potential meant that it quickly became the best sleeper GTI ever Now Volkswagen is an interesting brand. And if you’re coming over from a Japanese or American manufacturer you’re used to clearly defined lines. In a sense most automakers employ what’s similar to a caste system for their engine families. In other words there’s no mixing between the families. Compared to this the Volkswagen group four cylinder world is one big orgy and drawing clearly defined lines between the engines is difficult and inevitably ends up being subjective. The reason is that the grandfather of all vw water cooled inline fours is actually a Mercedes engine called the M118 which was Mercedes' attempt to take Auto Union into a new direction, away from DKW's two stroke smokiness. Of course all of this was happening back when Mercedes owned Auto Union (today Audi) and sent over a man called Ludwig Kraus to build a future for Audi. But before any of it actually bore fruit Mercedes sold Audi to Volkswagen who saw it as a great opportunity to pick up much needed expertise in a time of declining sales for the air-colled VW Beetle that finally started showing it's age. But when Audi went to VW, Ludwig Kraus didn't, Mercedes' prominent engineer stayed over at VW and started working into redesigning the M118 into something new. The new engine was called the EA111 and saw the light of day in 1974, first in the Audi 50 and then in the first ever Volkswagen Polo. Now our engine of interest the 1.8 turbo 20 valve bears both the EA827 and EA113 code because it's production spawned both generations. The 1.8t 20v engine saw the light of day in 1993 on the Audi A4 and it received a very lukewarm reception, largely due to it's 150hp output. Soon after it would grace the engine bay of the Golf MK4 GTI, again with only 150hp, representing what many saw as a shame to the GTI name. In the years that followed VAG would install the 1.8t 20v into virtually everything it had on offer with four valves. A total of 16 cars got this engine and this list includes everything, from the tiny Polo and Ibiza to the Leon, Octavia and even the hefty Audi A6 and Skoda Superb. Power outputs soon started growing to and the ubiquitous 1.8 eventually covered a range from 150 to 240 horsepower. But by far it's most significant achievement has been achieved after its warranty....in the tuning scene. The incredibly widespread nature of this engine meant that for many the 1.8t as their first turbo car. The tuning scene would soon change forever and Volkswagen's initially disappointing little four cylinder would almost single-handed breed an entire generation of power addicts. Now the 1.8t engine may pale in comparison to more exotic powerplants but it's blessed with simple, robust and proven hardware which is often the most reliable path towards pragmatic, real life fun and enjoyment. We have a bore of 81mm and a stroke of 86.4mm, giving us a pretty undersquare design, which by it's nature results in good amounts of torque low in the rev range. Most engines feature an aluminum intake manifold and cast log type exhaust manifolds. There are three different KKK turbochargers fitted to the engines and they are K03, K03S and K04. Most engines feature the basic K03, while the K03s can be found on the following engines and the K04 being reserved for the most powerful versions. K03S turbos are on: BBU, BE, BJX, BVP, ARY, AUQ, AWV, ARX, AUM, AWP, BEX K04 turbos are on: BFV, APY, APX, AMK, BAM Everything else like the AEB, AGU and others is K03 turbo. The tuning success comes from the fact that the VW 1.8t 20v ticks all the right boxes. It's plentiful and readily available and not too expensive which means replacement and upgrade parts can easily be sourced. The engine is already turbocharged from the factory, the internals aren't weak and the ECU isn't restrictive or impossible to remap. So you can easily score +40hp on the 150 engines with zero hardware changes and zero getting dirty. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini #d4a #iconicengines #1.8t 00:00 Intro 00:54 History 15:04 Specs 20:29 Tuning

Phone mount: https://amzn.to/3y18zlT Backpack: https://amzn.to/3krtiaz Best selling helmets: https://amzn.to/3s30edu Best selling jackets: https://amzn.to/3LDTMl1 And this is my first ever motorcycle. It's a yamaha... I'll tell you more about it later. I did xx km with it so far, and these km account for my entire riding experience on an actual motorcycle. But the interesting thing here is that I'm probably one of the more ill suited persons to take up motorcycle riding, because I'm not your average 34 year old. How come? Well for one I learned how to ride a bicycle at 29, I was thought by my wife. And ever since then I have ridden very little which means that all the 2 wheeled related skills and subconscious stuff that should have become embedded in my brain over the decades simply isn't there. And now I'm at an age where acquiring new skills is much harder than back when I was 4 or 5. When it comes to learning how to ride I have to say that it feels like an extremely steep learning curve and I feel like I progressed from absolute zero to lane filtering within minutes. And I have to say that I'm really surprised by this. I consider myself a clumsy person and I always had trouble turning verbal instructions into bodily motion. Before I started riding I tried to imagine and visualize how to do it and I always ended up feeling like I would fall because a motorcycle looks and feels unstable. When it comes to leaning a motorcycle I was 100% certain that I would immediately fall. I completely understand the physics of what keeps a motorcycle moving and why it doesn't fall that easily, but my instincs were overpowring my logic and convincing me that it will be very hard to master even the most basic stuff. Now you're probably wondering „what is this guy talking about“? Didn't he get a license before riding? I definitely have a license see, I got it five years ago when I realized that I will definitely want to try riding some day. But you see I got it on Vespa px125...a scooter. And in my opinion you don't really ride a scooter. You sit on it. In the same way you sit in a restaurant or on the toilette. I was convinced that an actual motorcycle that you have to throw your leg over and where you shift your gears with your leg is somehow different and I couldn't visualize how to do it. So I started small...the first task was just taking off and covering a very short distance in first gear, the next time I tried shifting, after that I joined traffic and took a little trip of around 8 kilometers. All of this happened in the span of a single day. I immediately realized that a scooter and a sports bike are pretty similar. Twisting the throttle gets the thing going and keeps it stable. Just as physics said it would. But I was still surprised by my rapid progress and wondered where it came from. And then I realized....I'm not really clumsy. I'm probably an average person, the only difference is that this time I did things my way and I because I'm 34 I now feel like I have nothing to prove. I proudly duck walk whenever I feel it's necessary. I got on the bike, started riding and I calmly listened to my body. I know this may sound strange but I decided not to watch any videos on how to ride a motorcycle or do any research. As I said, I'm not very good at interpreting verbal instructions on how to perform a physical action. But more than that I feel that a lot of really popular topics online have created certain dogmas and the validy of these dogmas is increased through endless repetition and regurgitation despite them not being suitable for everyone. So I decided to forego being told what to do and instead I just listened to my body. After 15 minutes of riding my wrists started to hurt..so I realized I was trying to do everything with my hands. I felt that in order to take pain away from my wrists I had to take weight away from them....so I used my thighs to hug the gas tank more tightly and it worked like magic. I still have to remind myself not to do everything with my hands but I'm getting better at it. And by hugging the gas tank I also realized that the bike is controlled more with your legs than with your hands. The hands are sort of a secondary set of controls and the initial inputs seem to be coming from the legs. When you're very young this comes naturally because you're unable to overthink things. But when you're older you can do things naturally only if when know yourself well....and that doesn't happen in your teens, or your early 20s....it usually happens after you lived with yourself a bit longer. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini #d4a #newbieriderdiaries #firstbike Driving 4 answers is part of amazon associates

Head to https://squarespace.com/d4a to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code d4a Today we're talking about engine cooling and we will be comparing the benefits and drawbacks of air cooled, oil cooled and water cooled engines. Why do engines even need to be cooled? To answer that question all you have to do is put your palms together and run them quickly. Feeling the heat? Well that heat is a result of friction and there's plenty of friction happening inside an engine, but by far the major source of friction, often accounting to around 40% of the total friction is the sliding of the piston rings against the cylinder bore. So how do we control the heat? Well the simplest and earliest answer is to use the air already available everywhere around the engine. This means that air cooled engines don't need any additional liquids, liquid containers, hoses or anything. It is simply by being in contact with the surrounding air that these engines transfer their heat away onto it and cool themselves. You can easily recognize air cooled engines by the increased number of fins on their cylinder heads. And that's really all there is to air cooling and this makes air cooled engines dead simple and pretty which also makes them lightweight and very easy to maintain and makes their production very cost effective. But there is a price to be paid for this simplicity. The first is uneven cooling. If we imagine an air cooled engine in the stream of air we can see that the front part of the engine exposed to the air does indeed get cooled, but the back part of the engine obviously isn't in the air stream which means that it won't be cooled as well. Air cooled engines rely on running richer than liquid cooled engines to ensure that they don't overheat even when outside temperatures are high and the vehicle is stationary. But running richer than required not only reduces power potential but it can also dramatically increase hydrocarbon emissions. Now the line between oil cooled and air cooled engines can be blurry. The first reason is that all oil cooled engines are also air cooled and you will find that oil cooled engines feature the same cooling fins on their heads and cylinders as can be found on air cooled engines. The other issue is that many air cooled engines such as the Volkswagen and Porsche air cooled flat fours and flat sixes feature an oil cooler so some people actually refer to them as oil cooled rather than air cooled. But a clear distinction can be made and an engine can be qualified as oil cooled not simply by the presence of an oil cooler but by the fact that a part of the oil is circulated through dedicated channels with the clear purpose of cooling the engine rather than lubricating it. A telltale sign of an oil cooled engine will be increased oil capacity. One of the most widely known representatives of oil cooled engines are engines made by Suzuki featuring their SACS or Suzuki Advanced cooling system. The system was used extensively on GSXR model bikes from 1985 through 1992 and was also featured on the Bandit, GSF as well as DR650 bikes. So the oil cooling system has the advantage of being able to circulate the entire circumference of the combustion chamber which means that it takes heat away right from the source and allows even cooling of all parts of the engine. The drawback is the increased complexity due to the presence of the radiator and additional oil channels and hoses as well as the increased servicing cost due to the increased oil capacity. But there's another drawback to oil cooling, and it's the heat capacity of oil which is inferior to the heat capacity of water. Engine oil typically has a heat capacity of around 2 kilo joules per kelvin. This means that it can absorb 2 kilo joules of energy in the form of heat before it's temperature increases by 1 kelvin. Water is far superior in this regard and it has a heat capacity of 4.18 kilo joules per kelvin. This means that water is capable of absorbing twice the heat of oil before it's temperature increases. A mixture of water and antifreeze or coolant flows through dedicated coolant channels throughout the engine block and cylinder head and absorbs heat away from the engine. To ensure proper circulation water cooling also requires a water pump. The pump is usually driven by the engine via a belt although the water pump can also be electronic in more recent vehicles which reduces the parasitic load on the engine. Coolant is passed through a radiator which dissipates the heat absorbed from the engine into the surrounding air. Another key component of the system is the thermostat, it prevents the coolant from circulating through the radiator until the engine reaches operating temperature. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini 00:00 Intro 01:11 Air cooling 07:31 Oil cooling 10:58 Water cooling #d4a #aircooled #cooling

Head to https://squarespace.com/d4a to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code d4a So yeah, gas prices...crzazy all around the world. So in response to that today I'm doing a very detailed guide on how to save fuel. 00:00 Contents Chapter 1 – Maintenance 00:46 Check engine light Don't ignore them. Check them yourself with a $5 OBD bluetooth dongle and a free phone app. If it's something like an oxygen sensor causing your engine to run too rich then every minute you delay this repair is wasting you money. 02:54 Dirty air filter A dirty air filter negatively impacts fuel economy by making it more difficult for the engine to breathe. The dirtier your air filter the less permeable it is and the less permeable it is the more engine work will be wasted on trying to ingest air through a dirty filter 03:48 Thinner oils Thinner engine oils such as 5w30 are more viscous than thicker oils like 10w40 for example. A thinner oil makes it easier for the engine to spin which reduces the amount of engine work wasted on overcoming the high resistance to flow of thick oils. Improved fuel economy is one of the key reasons why many new cars run ultra thin oils like 0w-20 and 0w-30. 04:36 Tires and tire pressure Every single psi of tire pressure missing reduces fuel efficiency by 0.1 percent. On top of this every psi of pressure missing increases tire wear by 10%. 05:18 The right fuel Low grade and poor quality makes the engine more susceptible to misfires or engine knocking which will immediately trip engine sensors causing a check engine light and can also accelerate the rate of wear and failure of oxygen sensors and catalytic converters. Chapter 2 - Driving techniques 06:11 Coasting with engine off Never shut off your engine while the vehicle is still in motion. By shutting your engine off your are taking away your ability to react properly and on time to the changing road conditions. You're likely not even saving fuel. Because when you turn the engine on again the injectors will inject extra fuel to ensure the engine starts more easily. 10:00 Drafting Drafting is also unsafe because it reduces your braking distance and obscures your line of sight. It also doesn't improve fuel economy because you have to be on your toes all the time and will end up using the throttle and brake more often to adapt to the speed of the vehicle in front of you. 11:37 Coasting in neutral The engine consumes more fuel when idling then when coasting downhill in gear at much higher rpm. This because by connecting the engine to the drive-train you allow the wheels to do the work of spinning your engine. Coasting in neutral isn't a good idea also because it turns the handling dynamics of your car into that of a soapbox car. 12:38 Throttle techniques The more throttle you apply the more fuel you use. Hard and aggressive throttle operation only wastes fuel. Apply the throttle gently and gradually while adapting to the speed of the traffic around you. 13:56 Braking Aggressive throttle techniques call for bad braking. By trying to outrun traffic you will be turning the valuable momentum generated by acceleration into brake dust and heat. 14:43 Shifting Shifting too early can result in the engine starting to struggle which will force you to apply more throttle causing excessive fuel consumption and possibly engine lugging. Don't forget to downshift when you need to accelerate hard. Trying to achieve the desired speed in too high off a gear will result in a big lag in acceleration and wasted fuel. Chapter 3 – Accessories, features and products 16:18 Aerodynamics The simpler and more fluid shape of your car the better. Remove roof racks and bike racks when not using them. Use tonneau covers on pickup trucks. Avoid car bras, bug shields, fake vents and aftermarket spoilers. 18:27 Start/stop If your car has auto start stop don't disable it. If it doesn't have don't try to manually replicate it. You're just straining the battery, starter motor and engine and being a hindrance in traffic. You're also not saving fuel because the engine injects extra fuel when starting. 19:08 AC and windows Windows below 40mph, AC above that. 19:55 Shedding weight Get rid of everything you don't use. Messy trunks waste fuel. Keep the tank half full and replace your spare tire with an inflation kit if you don't go offloading and into inaccessible areas. 20:40 Additives, magnets, ionizers None of these magical fuel saving devices work. Use the money for gas. 22:33 The wrong car Giant SUV-s and anything with a big engine can't be saved by any fuel saving technique. You need a small, lightweight car with a small engine. EVs still fit very few lifestyles and hybrid cars are realistically the most sensible option anywhere in the world. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini #d4a #hypermiling #fueleconomy

AEM high flow fuel pumps: http://bit.ly/2D4Ahighflowfp AEM fuel pressure regulator: https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/fuel-delivery/adjustable-fuel-pressure-regulators/universal-adjustable-fuel-pressure-regulator Support d4a: http://driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com/ D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a A turbocharger or supercharger increases power output by compressing air, in other words it stuffs in more air in the same volume ultimately increasing air pressure and air mass inside the engine beyond what the engine could achieve relying on atmospheric pressure alone. However for the engine to operate properly it must operate at the correct air fuel ratio. This means that when adding forced induction and increasing the amount of air going into the engine we must also increase the amount of fuel coming into the engine. In my example I'm turbocharging a Toyota 4AFE engine which is naturally aspirated in stock form and makes 110 horsepower. My goal is to try and increase the output to 300 horsepower by adding a turbocharger. In stock form my engine is equipped with 200 cubic centimetres per minute fuel injectors And my car is equipped with a fuel pump that flows 80 liters of fuel per hour. So our fuel pump is capable of flowing more fuel than the engine will realistically ever need. This done to ensure that the fuel pump lasts a long time and isn't strained to maximum capability and it also ensures that correct fuel pressure can be maintained even as the fuel pump ages and wears. Now let's talk about upgrades. Since I'm planning to almost triple my horsepower output I will also be pretty much tripling the amount of air coming into the engine which means that I will also need to triple the amount of fuel delivered to the engine. So a rough estimate tells us that for 300 horsepower I would need injectors that can flow around 600 cc of fuel per minute. Now if we multiply our injector flow rate by 4 which is the number of injectors we get a result of 2400cc per minute. This is the maximum amount of fuel my injectors can flow and also the maximum amount of fuel they require. If we convert cc per minute to liters per hour we will see that this is 144 liters per hour which is well beyond the maximum amount of fuel my stock fuel pump can supply, which means that the fuel pump must also be replaced. I have chosen to replace my stock fuel pump with an AEM High Flow In-Tank Fuel Pump. I chose this pump because it's very compact and has the same inlet and outlet orientation as my stock pump so it will fit inside the same enclosure and bracket without modification. It's also compatible with ethanol and methanol based fuels in case I decide to run these in the future. This fuel pump flows 340 liters per hour which is more than twice what my injectors will ever need so you might think this pump is overkill? Well not as much as you'd think and that's because this is a forced induction application. I'm trying to push a 1.6 liter 4 cylinder engine to 300 horsepower and to achieve that I will realistically need at least 20psi of boost. This means that when the fuel injector opens and tries to spray fuel out into the intake port it will be facing 20 psi of boost pressure fighting against it. So if our fuel pressure is let's say 40 psi then the injector will essentially „waste“ 20 psi of fuel pressure just to overcome boost pressure and the result is that the injector actually discharges fuel with only 20psi behind it. So how do we fix this? With a boost referenced adjustable fuel pressure regulator. A hose from your intake is connected to the fuel pressure regulator which then „senses“ boost pressure. The regulator has a 1:1 Boost dependent rising fuel pressure rate meaning that it will increase the fuel pressure by the amount of boost pressure it senses. So if it senses 20 psi of boost pressure it will also increase fuel pressure by 20 psi. By doing this we prevent boost pressure from reducing the discharge pressure at the injectors and distorting our air fuel ratio. But this also means that when our turbo generates 20 psi of boost pressure, our fuel pressure will ramp up from 40 to 60 psi. And the higher the fuel pressure the more difficult it becomes for the fuel pump to maintain the same flow rate. The fuel pump itself does not produce pressure, it produces flow and the pressure level is a consequence of what your fuel pressure regulator does as well as the diameter of your fuel lines, fuel filter and other secondary factors that contribute to fuel pressure. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini #d4a #projectunderdog #boostschool 00:00 More air needs more fuel 02:30 Injector sizing formula 05:03 Boost referenced fuel pressure regulation 07:57 How to replace injectors 09:11 How to replace the fuel pump

Head to https://squarespace.com/d4a to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code d4a. In 1986 a company called Alfa Romeo introduced the first ever twin spark engine. Instead of having one spark plug in each cylinder Alfa Romeo decided to double things up and install two spark plugs in each cylinder. This resulted in improved combustion inside the engine which lead to increased power and efficiency and to this day twin spark engines are the absolute pinnacle of internal combustion design, often imitated but never duplicated…. Did you buy all this? Well some of it is actually true...but the rest is absolute nonsense. Do you know which part is true and which is not? 1986 ..nope that's a big lie. The first functional dual ignition engine was introduced in 1914 on this car. Was it an Alfa....yes it was! This right here is the 1914 ALFA 40/60 Grand Prix. The car was a creation of Giuseppe Merosi who not only had an incredible mustache but also created an engine that was light-years ahead of it's time. It was a 4.5 liters inline with double overhead cams, four valves per cylinder, 90 degree valve angle and twin spark ignition. In 1914. Although the overall engine architecture was inspired by the Peugeot engines from 1912 and 1913 whose design is claimed by Swiss engineer Ernest Henry, the twin sparks were definitely an Alfa original creation. Once initiated the combustion flame front travels from the spark plug outward until it covers the combustion chamber and obviously this takes time. The time required to complete a combustion depends on the flame speed of the combustion which depends on the type of fuel, octane rating, compression ratio, how well air and fuel are mixed together and what is the ratio of the air to fuel. But in general as the rpms increase the speed of the piston will outrun the speed of the combustion. This means that we must rely on ignition advance to fire the spark plug before the piston reaches top dead center in order to give the combustion enough time to spread and build up maximum combustion pressure by the time the piston reaches just a bit past top dead center so that maximum pressure is exerted onto the piston at the correct time leading to maximum power and efficiency. But there's a limit to ignition advance. Too much ignition advance eventually results in the spark plug being fired too early and creating combustion as the piston still moves upward which is essentially pre-ignition and can damage the engine because it forces the piston to work against the combustion exposing it to massive heat and mechanical stress. So if we run out of ignition advance and still want to rev the engine to high rpm our only other choice is the increase the speed of the combustion and we can do this by initiating combustion at two different points. If we install two spark plugs and fire them at the same time the travel path for the flame front becomes much shorter. By installing two spark plugs we're not increasing the flame speed, we're simply reducing the travel path of the flame front which obviously decreases combustion time making it possible to fully cover the combustion chamber even at high rpm. So if twin spark plugs offer the benefits of better combustion which leads to more power potential, improved economy and reduced emissions this must make them very desirable and one would expect to see dual ignition on all car engines on the road today. In reality the opposite is true and as many of you know twin spark plugs are a pretty rare occurrence on car engines. Dual ignition did pop on the engines of various manufacturers through the years. Nissan had it in 1978 on their NAPS-Z and NAPS-X cars. Ford also had it in the 80s and early 90s on their four cylinder Ford Rangers and Mustangs m. Honda also had intelligent and dual sequential ignition on their I-DSI engines found in their smaller cars in the early 2000s. But today there's virtually zero mass produced cars that have twin sparks per cylinder. In fact starting with around 2010 or so twin spark plugs are virtually extinct on car engines. CHRYSLER HEMI ENGINE So why do Hemi engines have dual sparks? Well first of all the hemi engine isn't a true hemi anymore, the combustion chambers aren't really hemispherical, instead they have a more complex oval shape. But more importantly than this the modern hemi is still a bit of a 2 valve dinosaur. Some versions do have cam phasing but that's pretty much it. There's no direct or dual injection, no variable intakes, no variable valve lift meaning that the Hemi needs all the help it can get meet recent emissions and economy standards. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini #d4a #twinspark 00:00 Intro 02:43 Combustion speed 06:35 2 and 4 valves 11:37 Bikes and planes

Participation rules: 1. Follow Midship Garage on Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/midshipgarage/?hl=en 2. Subscribe to Midship Garage on YouTube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCheIawlKXGc59pmGTnxOyvQ 3. Comment on this video All participants must be 18 or older. Prize is 360mm Nardi Steering Wheel and $50 gas card or equivalent Visa gift card (in case winner is outside US). Prize estimated list value: 407$. The giveaway is not in affiliation with Nardi or Shell. Only one entry per person is allowed. No purchase necessary / free to enter. Any potential customs or import fees are responsibility of award recipient. Giveaway ends Monday 03/21/2022 at 07:00 PM US PST (Pacific Standard Time). Winner will be announced Tuesday 03/22/2022 at 07:00 AM US PST Good luck everyone :) A word of support for Midship Garage: Recently Midship Garage has come under attack in the form of hacking, attempts at business disruption, defamation and racial hatred. Unfortunately the internet allows people to hide behind a vpn and a keyboard and basically commit hate crimes and go unpunished. The attacks have been reported to authorities and hopefully will be resolved soon. In case you run into any of these posts online that are attempting to defame or slander Midship Garage rest assured that they are lies and nonsense. I have worked with Midship Garage on numerous occasions, both as a regular customer and as a channel. Dozens upon dozens of my friends in the Celica and MR2 communities have purchased stuff from Midship Garage and we have always received what we paid for. If someone didn't receive something they were refunded immediately. This is a 100% legitimate and professional business and I would just like to try and put the word out there to try and minimize the negative effects of illegal actions against a business that is a valuable part of the MR2 and the car community in general. I am personally disgusted by these and all similar actions and types of hate crimes and fully support all business, especially small ones in the car community that are doing honest and legitimate work. #d4a #midshipgarage #giveaway A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini

Head to https://squarespace.com/d4a to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code d4a. Let's say you're idling at 600 rpm. You put the car in gear and you floor it, you open the throttle completely. It takes a fraction of a second for the butterfly valve in your throttle body to open fully and allow large amounts of air into the engine. The air takes even less time to actually get into the engine and it takes the injectors another absolute miniscule amount of time to deliver the fuel needed to match this air. So everything the engine needs to be build maximum power and torque is delieved in a split second. Maximum air is allowed into the engine and we can deliver maximum fuel pretty much instantly. So why doesn't the engine deliver maximum power and torque instantly? Why does it need to rev higher to make maximum power? Why can't it deliver that same power right after idle if we're giving it everything it needs to do so? Why can't internal combustion engines generate instant torque like electric vehicles such as a tesla can? Why is power and torque a curve and not just a flat line? Well the answer is piston speed! Why piston speed? Because the speed of the piston determines how much air can actually get into the engine. A fully open throttle body may ALLOW a lot of air to potentially get into the combustion chamber. But how much of that air actually gets in is determined by the piston. But aren't intake valves what determines how much air gets into the chamber. Zero air gets into the chamber when the intake valve is closed. the timing of the intake valve opening and the duration of how long the intake valve stays open actually determines how much air gets into the chamber. Well yes, technically this is correct. But the valves too are just like the throttle body. A fully open intake valve creates potential for maximum air to enter into the engine, but whether maximum air actually gets into the chamber is determined by the piston. How does the piston do this? Well it's actually pretty simple. When the piston moves down the bore it creates a void, or vacuum, an senescence of air. When this absence appears air of course moves to fill it. This vacuum which is constantly being created by the piston is the true source of the engine's appettite for air. Now the higher the engine rpm the faster the crankshaft spins and the faster the piston travels. Now the faster the piston moves down the bore the faster it creates more vacuum and the faster the air rushes into the engine. And this is why power and torque are curves. At 700 rpm the piston simply doesn't travel fast enough to create enough vaccum to ingest maximum air. But when the engine builds up 5000 rpm the piston travels fast enough to ingest the maximum possible air and then you match that with fuel and you get the maximum possible combustion intensity which generates the maximum possible combustion pressure which pushes the piston down with maximum force then using the connecting rod and crankshaft pin as leverage the piston causes the crankshaft to rotate at maximum torque. But forced induction engines don't care about the vacuum generated by the piston because they can use a turbo or supercharger to stuff in more air than a silly little vaccum could ever hope to create? True, forced induction increases power but again no amount of forced induction can create a flat power and torque curve. A turbo needs a sufficient amount of exhaust energy to be driven at sufficient speed to generate maximum boost, and the engine can only generate this maximum exhaust energy at certain rpm. Same goes for the supercharger which is driven by the crankshaft usually via a belt so it's rotation speed is actually synced to the rpm of the engine. And to achieve maximum boost the supercharger also needs to achieve a certain rpm. And although some very modern turbocharged engines can generate maximum torque starting from as little as 1500rpm and keep it flat for most of the rpm range thanks to modern ultra low resistance and ultra smart aerodynamics turbos and continuously variable valve timing and valve lift.....maximum power is still always generated at a much higher rpm. So here's the next level question for you: How can maximum torque be generated at much lower rpm than horsepower. Aren't the two linked together because horsepower is essentially torque x rpm. So why doesn't the horsepower curve simply follow the torque curve? Why don't they look the same? The reason behind this is that horsepower is essentially torque x rpm. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini #d4a #horsepower #torque 00:00 Why are they not flat 02:29 Gates and piston speed 05:10 Forced induction and vacuum 06:41 Why peak torque before peak power 09:04 Why do they fall off

Live streams: https://superpeer.com/driving4answers 4AGE cad files and channel support: https://driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com/ https://midshipgarage.com/ https://www.weldspeed.com.au/ Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a So in this video we're doing a big recap on the bike carb 4age and bidding farewell to it. We're also doing an update on the Turbo 4afe as it has also seen some progreess. The head is on, clutch, flywheel, transmission - it's basically ready to be installed into the MR2. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini #d4a #projectunderdog #bikecarb4age 00:00 Live streams, CAD files, etc. 03:35 Engine drop 04:26 Bike carb CONS 14:19 Bike carb PROS 20:25 Turbo 4AFE progress

d4a live: https://superpeer.com/driving4answers Infinity 506: http://bit.ly/D4Ainfinity5 In today's video we're talking about ECUs and comparing stock OEM ECUs vs aftermarket. We will see the pros and cons of both and we will see what can be achieved with reflashed oem ecus vs standalone ecus and which approach best suits which type of end-user. What is an ECU? Well ECU stands for ENGINE CONTROL UNIT and it's the key component of every electronically fuel injected vehicle. Sometimes you will also hear the terms ECM or PCM which stand for engine control module or power control module all of these mean the same thing. An ECU is basically a computer that receives inputs from various sensors on the engine which basically tell it how much air is coming into the engine and then based on these inputs the ECU will control the injectors to inject the correct amount of fuel and instruct the ignition coils to fire the spark plug at the correct time with the goal of extracting the maximum efficiency and/or power from the engine. This controlling of injection and ignition is done using what is known as maps. The most important of these are fuel maps and ignition maps. An OEM ECU is technically not designed to be tampered with. If evidence of tampering with it is found this will obviously void your warranty if you have one and tampering with the OEM ECU obviously risks engine damage. But tampering with anything engine related obviously carries a certain level of engine damage risk, however these risks of tampering with things have never successfully deterred humans from tampering with them...so we tamper. So how do we even tamper with an OEM ECU? Well, the first step towards this is actually reading what's inside the ECU. Manufacturers are not keen on giving anyone with a laptop easy access to what's inside the ECU, which is why the data in the maps and other features of an OEM ECUs isn't really straightforward to read. But people have encrypted anything and everything and OEM ECUs are no exception. Once the contents of the ECU are encrypted an interface that reads and displays them in a meaningful manner on a pc is created. There are countless different interfaces out there. A few examples are: HP tuners, hondata, ecutek, k-tag, versatuner, etc. Some are open source and free, others must be purchased. All of these interfaces or software packages cover different makes and models and many overlap with each other. Obviously popular vehicle platforms will be better off here and will always have access to more community, aftermarket and software support, whether it be paid or free. The final step will be acquiring a special USB cable which will connect your vehicle's OBD port to your laptop's USB port and then you will be able to see and modify the MAPS stored inside your ECU. So this sounds great right? What more could you ask for? What is the purpose of a standalone ECU if re-flashing already let's you modify your stock one? Well, reflashing, just like anything else has it's limits and depending on your vehicle platform, goal and desires these limitations may make a standalone a ECU much more sensible option. The reason behind this is that your stock ECU is designed for your specific engine. In contrast to this a standalone ECU is infinitely more flexible. For example the AEM infinity 506 that I'm holding in my hand can run any engine with up to 6 cylinders. It doesn't even care if the engine is two stroke or four stroke, the injectors can be either high impedance or low impedance, the engine can be turbocharged or naturally aspirated, the throttle can be dirve by wire or cable, it can control nitrous, compensate for flex fuel or the amount of ethanol in your fuel, it can control boost based on rpm, vehicle, speed, gear, ethanol content, it can even perform traction control and launch control, it can protect your engine based on coolant temperature, oil pressure, oil temperature, knock, intake air temperature, fuel pressure, air fuel ratios, it can even control stepper motors and log data for your. But there is a catch. A standalone ECU may be almost infinitely flexible...but as such it is also a blank canvas. When you read the data from your OEM ECU you will have a starting point, a setup that is known to work. A standalone will have no values in its maps unless you type something in. This lack of a starting point and large amount of features and settings my make a standalone ECU seem more intimidating than it really is. So to better see the pros and cons of both setups let's go through a bunch of typical user scenarios to see which setup shines where and which category of user do you see yourself fitting the best. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda Toma Marini 00:00 What is an ECU 00:59 Map basics 02:12 Features 06:13 Just the tip 10:31 Getting hooked 12:15 Totally addicted 16:00 Racing #d4a #ecu #reflash #aem #standalone

Ok so today we're talking about a cheat....well no....technically this wasn't a cheat it was a very very creative interpretation of the rules of the world rally championship. So the year is 2003 the car is the Ford Focus RS WRC 03 and the motor-sport discipline is the World Rally Championship. Now in 2002 Ford introduced newly designed version of the Focus for the WRC. Most of the important stuff was redesigned from the ground up, the body shell was made lighter and aerodynamic enhancements were introduced. But one of the most noticeably changes was the replacement of the front and rear bumpers with US spec bumpers which was a bit weird as the car was based on the European Focus. But fitting different bumpers isn't against the rules and most initially suspected that the US bumpers offered some sort of aerodynamic advantage or something. Now the real reason for the US bumpers is that US safety regulations demand larger and more prominent bumpers. A regulation that's notorious for uglifying many cars. But this time a larger bumper had a completely different agenda because inside the bumper the Ford World Rally team concealed a 45 liter tank made from 2mm thick titanium sheets. So what was the titanium tank used for? It was used to store boost. I know it may sound ridiculous but this was it's actual purpose. The tank was connected to the engine via 4 meters of 30mm diameter piping. When the car was off throttle and the turbo was generating boost that the engine wasn't ingesting this excess boost was fed into the tank. When the car got back on throttle a special valve would open and release all of the stored boost back into the engine for increased power. So here we have an engine and here we have a turbocharger. Combustion happens inside the cylinder and creates hot exhaust gasses. These hot gasses then exit through the exhaust manifold and drive the turbine wheel. The turbine wheel inside the exhaust side of the turbocharger is connected to the compressor wheel via a common shaft. The compressor wheel inside the intake side of the turbo sucks in air, compresses it and then sends it through the intercooler into the engine. So logic tells us that the faster the turbo spins the more air it can suck in. The more air it sucks in the more air it can compress generating higher boost pressure and more power. The higher the boost pressure or the pressure of the intake air the more we are stuffing into the same volume. The more air we stuff the more fuel we can add and the more powerful the combustion becomes. The more powerful the combustion the more power the engine makes and the faster the car can go. Now when you open the throttle fully you're letting in more air into the engine so the ECU adds more fuel to compensate and we create more powerful combustions inside the engine. This also create more exhaust gasses and more heat which is then used to drive the turbocharger faster. So the turbo starts spinning faster and faster sucking in and compressing more and more air. As it does so it starts increasing the air pressure inside the intake manifold until we reach the peak pressure our turbocharger can generate. Let's imagine that in our case that's 2 bar, which is approximately 30psi. So the turbo is stuffing air at the peak pressure it can generate which leads to the engine generating it's peak power as well. Now let's imagine we're approaching a sharp corner and we suddenly release throttle. At this moment we have pressurized air that has nowhere to go because entry into the engine has suddenly been blocked by the throttle plate. This is excess boost. Pressurized air inside the intake manifold that can not go into the engine. So here's Ford's valve, here's the tank and here's the engine. When the driver releases the throttle and anti lag kick in the valve opens. Increased boost pressure fills up the intake manifold and any excess beyond that goes into the tank. When you get back on throttle and if pressure inside the intake manifold is higher than inside the tank the throttle remains closed to prevent boost pressure being wasted on filling the tank and reducing power output. Driver let's go off the throttle again, anti lag kicks in excess boost pressure goes into the tank until eventually the pressure in the intake manifold becomes the same as in the tank. The valve now closes because tank pressure can not be increased further. The next time you get back on full throttle the pressure inside the tank is higher than inside the intake manifold. The valve now opens and extra air pressure rushes into the intake manifold generating higher pressure in the intake manifold than would normally be possible thus increasing the power output. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda #d4a #ford 00:00 Ford in the WRC 02:28 Hidden boost tank 05:46 Boost pressure basics 09:19 What is excess boost? 13:29 Anti lag fills the tank

Here we have two engines. Both have the same bore and the same stroke. As you can see the only difference is the length of their connecting rods. At the same engine speed so at the same speed of rotation, the same rpm. Which engine has a faster accelerating piston? As you can see the question I asked you was a trick question because the piston in the short rod engine accelerates faster from top dead center going down while the long rod piston accelerates faster from bottom dead center going up. So why does this happen if both engines have the same bore, same stroke and are obviously spinning at the same rpm. Well the culprit behind is obvious. It's the connecting rods, as they're the only thing different between the two engines. And this video I promise to strain your mind to the redline by explaining how something as simple as different connecting rod lengths create different piston acceleration and then using real life engine examples we will see how this impacts everything from power and torque to engine longevity, responsiveness, vibrations and even things like coolant temperatures. So these two engines have different rod lengths, this means that they have different rod ratios. The full name is actually rod to stroke ratio. And it's the ratio of the center to center length of your connecting rod to the length of your engine's stroke which is determined by your crankshaft. A connecting rod is essentially a fixed length line. It's absolute length obviously never changes. But the relative length of the connecting rod is constantly changing when the engine is running. In other words the connect rod length changes in relation to the piston and the crankshaft as the engine is running. At top dead center and as you can see the connecting rod is fully upright. In this state it's at its maximum length in relation to the piston and crankshaft. Now as the engine rotates towards 90 degrees the connecting rod assumes it's fully angled position. In this position it is obviously at it's shortest in relation to the piston and the crankshaft. As we said an angled line has a shorter relative length than that same line when fully vertical. So as the engine rotates from 0 to 90 degrees the connecting rod is becoming shorter in relation to the piston and the crankshaft. As it does so it pulls down the piston an additional distance. The piston is already traveling downward so adding distance in the same direction forces the piston to accelerate more to cover that added distance. In fact we can observe this con-rod added distance in practice on every single piston engine ever made. Simply take any engine and rotate it to 90 degrees, or to half the stroke. Obviously at half the stroke the piston should also cover half the stroke distance? But it never does, at 90 degrees of rotation the piston of every engine will have traveled beyond half the stroke. This additional distance is the distance added by the connecting rod as it's relative length shortens. So why does the piston in the short rod engine accelerate more? The reason is simple and it's that a shorter rod length in relation to the same stroke results in the connecting rod assuming a steeper angle against the piston and crankshaft centerline. The steeper the angle the shorter the rod becomes in relation to the piston and crankshaft. So now we understand why the short rod piston accelerates faster away from TDC and we can use the same principles of relative rod length to understand what happens throughout the entire engine revolution. Now let's look at the rod ratios of some real life engine examples to see how these differences in acceleration actually impact the engine. Our first engine is the 1.6 liter Hyundai Gamma engine as found in numerous different Hyundai and Kia vehicles. As you can see this your typical daily driver engine with a modest redline, decent power and a pretty low rod ratio. Next up we have the 2 liter Honda K20 engine. We're looking at the performance version of this engine and as you can see it makes quite a bit more power than the Hyundai engine and it also has a noticeably higher redline and also a higher rod ratio. Our final engine is the one from the 2013 to 2018 Kawasaki ZX6R. As you can see it makes impressive power for it's very small displacement and has a redline that's almost twice that of the Honda K20. It also has by far the highest rod ratio. Somewhere around 2.2 or 2.3 is the highest realistic rod ratio for mass produced engines. Some of the highest rod ratios were found in Formula 1 cars at about 2.8 Awesome video proving rod ratio effects on a dyno by Garage 4age: https://youtu.be/uQLiWQAS35E A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda 00:00 Piston acceleration in detail 09:40 Rod ratios of real engines #d4a #rodratio

This is a detailed comparison of three different kinds of fuel injection. Port injection (or PFI), direct fuel injection (GDI or gasoline direct injection) and dual injection, which is a combination of port and direct fuel injection. We will see how each setup works, how they differ from each other and we will of course examine the benefits and drawbacks of each setup, so, let's get started. So both port and direct injection essentially do the same thing – they inject fuel into the engine to create a combustible air/fuel mixture which when combusted creates combustion pressures which drives the piston downward causing the crankshaft to spin which then ultimately turns the wheels of the car. As the name implies, port injection, injects fuel into the intake port of the engine, before the intake valve, whereas direct injection injects fuel directly into the combustion chamber, after the intake valves. This means that in the case of port injection you will usually find the fuel injectors somewhere on the intake manifold while in the case of direct injection the injectors will often be either on the valve cover or right underneath the intake manifold bolted to the cylinder head. Both systems consist of essentially the same parts: a fuel tank, a fuel pump, fuel lines and injectors. However because direct injection injects into the combustion chamber it has to inject against the compression pressures of the engine which means that it must operate at much higher fuel pressures. Direct fuel injection often operates at pressures above 2000 psi or 140 bar. Of course to achieve such high pressures the direct fuel injection system must be more complex. It contains both a low pressure in-tank fuel pump and a high pressure cam-shaft driven fuel pump. The injectors themselves are also much more advanced and expensive because they must be capable of opening and closing extremely quickly against very high fuel pressure. They also need to be capable of surviving the harsh conditions created by combustion since their tips are exposed to it. Direct injection has the advantage of enabling higher compression ratios because it supplies fresh cool fuel directly into the chamber and it injects it later which means that it spends less time inside the engine which means that it picks up less heat than it would in the case of 'port injection. Less heat means less chances of knock which gives direct injection engines more room to increase the compression ratio which can improve both performance and efficiency. Another reason direct injection can improve performance and reduce emissions and fuel consumption is its location. Because the injector is inside the chamber it means that the amount of fuel injected is the same as the amount of fuel that gets into its chamber. Port fuel injection injects outside the chamber which means that the amount of fuel released isn't necessarily the amount of fuel that ends up in the chamber. Some of it may stick onto the walls of the intake, some may not make it into the chamber before the valve closes. This reduces injection accuracy and control which can negatively impact emissions and efficiency. But port injection has the benefit of having the intake valves constantly exposed to fuel, a great solvent. Direct fuel injection never injects onto the back of the valves which over time leads to accumulation of carbon deposits and other gunk from the pcv system. This reduces performance and leads to rough running. Results of prevention methods such as oil catch cans and fuel system additives or valve cleaners are mixed and the need to eventually mechanically clean the valves is inevitable. This of course leads to increased maintenance costs for direct injection engines. Another potential issue that can occur in direct injection engines is LSPI or low speed pre-ignition. This occurs at low rpm and high load (wide open throttle situations). At low rpm piston speeds are low which leads to poor fuel vaporization in direct injection engines. At the same time the high load means that the ECU instructs the injectors to inject more fuel into the cylinder. The other factor that needs to happen is a particle from the back of the valves or an oil droplet that makes it into the chamber and mixes with the poorly vaporized fuel. The mixture then gets exposed to the very high compression inside gdi engines and boom pre-ignition happens, often leading to catastrophic damage if allowed to persist. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Daniel Morgan Pepe Brian Alvarez Jack H Dave Westwood Joe C Zwoa Meda Beda #d4a #gdi #fuelinjection 00:00 Injection location 02:06 Injecting against compression 04:35 Timing 06:02 Compression ratio 07:48 Knock 10:13 Fuel injected vs Fuel combusted 11:09 Vaporization 13:09 Enough fuel for high rpms? 15:18 Intake valve deposits 17:22 LSPI 19:19 Stack the benefits loose the drawbacks

On a stock engine with a stock exhaust manifold the exhaust manifold clears the oil filter without issues. But let's see what happens if we decide to modify this engine. Let's imagine we want to fit a different exhaust manifold with the goal of turbocharging the engine. In many cases clearance becomes a problem and the manifold is hits the oil filter. Even a shorter oil filter often doesn't help much and installing a turbo charger is simply impossible. The only solution in a scenario like this one to relocate our filter. In other words we remove our stock oil filter and mounting plate and replace with an oil filter relocation kit that allows us to put our filter pretty much anywhere we want to. An oil filter relocation kit consists of two main parts. One part goes onto your stock oil filter location. And the other part houses your oil filter on it's new location and then the two parts get connected to each other. Your stock mounting plate and oil filter are connected to the engine using a long union bolt. Obviously this bolt is too long for the relocation plate so the kit has a shorter version of this union bolt. The kit also comes with two adapters to suit a wide variety of engines. The adapter is fastened into the mounting bracket and then the hollow bolt is installed into the adapter. After that you can screw the entire assembly into the block as you would your oil filter. The oil filter itself is of course installed into the other part of the kit and then you can you use the provided mounting brackets and holes to install the oil filter and housing at your desired location. The kit that I'm using in this video is made by Manon Racing Performance in New Zealand which specialized in Toyota 4AGE performance parts. This kit is a high quality billet item with impeccable finish machining to ensure perfect fitment and maximum flow. It's designed to operate reliably under high temperatures and in harsh racing conditions. Thanks to it's extensive range of adapters it also suits a wide variety of engines. It's also designed to fit -10AN or army navy fittings for a leak free easily removable connection. -10an is a large cross-section fitting which ensures optimum flow and is the recommended size for most applications. However there is a problem with this kit, the fittings point outward at a right angle from the engine block wall and the AN fittings add to the profile of the filter which again results in potential clearance problems. Fortunately this can easily be resolved simply by removing the provided fittings and replacing them with banjo bolt style fittings. These then point the connection downward and dramatically reduce the profile of the relocation plate leaving more than enough room for the turbo. An oil filter relocation kit also gives us the opportunity to install an oil cooler to reduce oil temperatures which can be something very beneficial in racing or other situations where we have high engine loads for prolonged periods of time. When it comes to plumbing the oil cooler you have two options. Option 1 is to have the oil flow from the engine to the cooler then to the filter and finally back into the engine. Option two is to have the oil run to the filter first and then to the engine. Both options are acceptable in most scenario and each has its small benefits. Having the oil cooler before the filter means that the oil filter can catch any residual solder and other debris that can break loose from inside the cooler but it can also mean that you're sending cooler more viscous oil into the filter. If the oil is too cool and too viscous it will trigger the bypass valve inside the oil filter and reduce the amount of oil actually being filtered. But fortunately there is a solution to this problem as well. If your oil cooler ends up cooling the oil too much you can install this which is a thermostatic sandwich plate. You can install it both under the oil filter or under the mounting bracket on the engine. Inside it the thermostatic plate has a proprtioning valve which sends more oil to the cooler the hotter it gets. The end result is an engine that gets to operating temperature faster but also doesn't overcool it's oil. In general an oil cooler is not a good idea just because it cools your oil but also because it together with the hoses needed for the system increases the oil capacity of your engine which is almost never a bad thing. Having more oil to circulate though the engine helps ensure proper temperature control. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez Dave Westwood Joe C #d4a #mrp

The people that made this video possible and my time in the mountains memorable: https://www.instagram.com/our_piratelife/ https://www.instagram.com/ficacrew/ Happy holidays everyone. All the best to you and yours. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez Dave Westwood Joe C Support d4a: http://driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com/ Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #aw11 #snowdrift

Buy here: https://bit.ly/3hiNU3F​ Get 10% Off Coupon Code: enginediy Check out www.enginediy.com for more When it comes to the packaging of the engine everything looks good and the engine is protected really well. The only thing that might be at risk from rough handling are the exhaust tubes which are placed into the bubble wrap next to the box The engine itself is well protected and comes inside this neat little unbranded black box. When it comes to the exterior appearance of the engine I have to say that everything looks absolutely perfect and well made. The machining is without fault and I really can't find anything obvious to complain about when it comes to the fit and finish of this little thing. Inside the box we can also find some o-rings of un-known purpose. Some electrical connectors.....and this shaft which is used for starting the engine. Inside is also our CDI box which provides the ignition for the engine. At the back of the box lid you can find the instructions. Unfortunately the instructions are almost useless and don't explain any of the basics so you have to figure out pretty much everything yourself. Once the engine was mounted it was time to provide a source of electrical energy for the ignition. I did this with a set of 6 double A batteries which I connected to the little connector that comes in the kt. Once the ignition is verified to work the last thing we need to do is to provide fuel. The instructions actually call for zippo fuel mixed together with 2 stroke oil at a ratio of 25:1. The fuel connection is at the bottom of the carburetor unfortunately the position and orientation of the fitting makes it very difficult to install a hose and I think an L-shaped fitting or something else would have been a much better idea here. I got the engine started within 15 minutes from taking it out of the box so I have to say that it's extremely impressive how easily it started. It required virtually zero troubleshooting. Overall the feel, sound and vibrations coming form the engine are extremely impressive. It sounds incredibly similar to an actual motorcylce engine and hearing in person is a really special sensation. So I have to say that they nailed that part and this is without a doubt a truly impressive gift for someone into engines or motorcycles, especially harleys or cruiser bikes in general PROS Exceptional looks fit and finish Amazing sound Very easy to start CONS poor instructions attention to detail (no thread in some of the mounting holes, weird fuel connection location, wrong bolt/ thread depth for the ground location) Now let's talk about the angle of our v-twin engine. As you can see our miniature engine is clearly trying to mimic the harley davidson panhead engine, and like almost all harley davidson engines since 1909 it has a 45 degree angle between the two cylinders. So which angle between the cylinders is best? 45, 90, 60? or something in between? In reality there is no such thing as the best or perfect angle for a v-twin engine, we only have different compromises for different applications. For example a 90 degre v-twin like those we see in Ducati motorcycles make it possible to achieve perect primary balance with the use of a crankshaft counterweight. A crankshaft counterweight can't balance out the mass of the piston in a single cylinder engine. When the piston is at top dead center the crankshaft counterweight can indeed balance it out. But when the engine rotates to 90 degrees the piston and the counterweight point in different directions and thus can't balance each other out. But in a 90 degree v twin the crankshaft counterweight can balance out both pistons. When piston of cylinder 1 is at tdc it's balanced out by the crankshaft counterweight. When the engine roates 90 degrees the crankshaft counterweight can now balance out the other piston and connecting rod assembly. The result is dramatically reduced vibrations and a smooth running engine. Now if we observe the 45 degree v-twin engine we can see that the crankshaft counterweight can not fully balance out the mass of the pistons like it can in the 90 degree-v twin. Due to the more narrow angle the counterweight can only partially balance out the masses of the pistons and the conrods leading to an imperfect primary balance. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez Dave Westwood Joe C Support d4a: http://driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com/ Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #vtwin #miniengine

In today's video we're talking about your engine's compression ratio. First we'll explain the theory behind the compression ratio, so what it is and how it influences the performance and efficiency of your engines. After that we will dive into the practical side of things and we will see how to calculate and modify your compression ratio and finally we'll talk about choosing the best compression ratio for your application. So, let's get started. Now when we say compression ratio we're actually referring to the static compression ratio of the engine, and that is the ratio between the largest and smallest volume of your cylinder. In other words it's the ratio between the cylinder volume when the piston is at bottom dead center and the cylinder volume when the piston is at top dead center. Your compression ratio, as the name implies, determines how much the air and fuel mixture inside your cylinder gets squeezed and compressed. The higher your compression ratio the closer the air and fuel molecules are brought together which means that we allow combustion to occur more effectively and more rapidly which ensures that the air fuel mixture is burned more thoroughly. Iin general a higher combustion ratio is achieved either by reducing the size of the combustion chamber or by bringing the piston closer to the combustion chamber. By doing this we of course bring the piston closer to the heart of the cobmsution or the source of energy which allows more of this energy to be transfered onto the piston and turned into piston movement or mechanical energy. In other words a higher combustion ratio can improve both power and efficiency. So the more the better right? Well as with all things there's a sensible limit and you can actually have too much of a good thing. Because a higher compression ratio contributes to a more thorough burn of the air fuel mixture it also increases combustion temperatures. The more compressed the mixture the better it burns and the better it burns the hotter it burns. The upside of this is of course more power potential and more efficiency but the downside is that the engine will run hotter and will have increased nitrogen oxide emissions. Higher combustion temperatures lead to more nitrogen oxide emissions which is one of the main reasons why more modern diesel engines that have a EURO 6 emissions standard run on average lower compression than their predecessors from a decade or two ago. But one of the main limiting factors when it comes to compression in spark ignition engines is of course knock. When you compresses gasses they heat up, air is of course a gas and if you compress it too much it can get hot enough to ignite gasoline fuel before it's actually reached by the expanding flame front created by the spark plug. This is called knock. Obviously a higher compression ratio increases the chances of knock and thus limits the ratio of compression a gasoline engine can have. This is especially true for forced induction engines which send already compressed air into the engine. Okay, so that's the basic theory now let's move onto the practical side of things. So what determines your engine's compression ratio? It's actually seven things: 1. Your bore 2. Your stroke 3. The thickness of your compressed head gasket 4. The bore of your head gasket 5. The distance between your piston top and your block deck 6. The volume of your piston dish or dome 7. And your combustion chamber volume So how do you calculate it? Well there are formulas but the advent of the internet allows us to be lazy and just plug everything into readily available free to use online compression ratio calculators. When it comes to changing our compression ratio here's a basic run-down. Increased bore - increased compression ratio Increased stroke - increased compression ratio Thicker head gasket - reduces compression ratio Thinner head gasket - increases compression ratio Decking the block - increases compression ratio Cutting the head - increases compression ratio Removing material from the combustion chamber - reduces compression ratio Domed pistons - increase compression ratio Dished pistons - reduce compression ratio A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez Dave Westwood Joe C Support d4a: http://driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com/ Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #boostschool #compressionratio 00:00 What is compression ratio and how it works 04:20 How to calculate compression ratio 06:42 How to change it 09:37 Choosing the optimal one for your application

What is up engine heads it's time for iconic engines and today we're talking about one of the most iconic engines ever made. The way it was born and the things that it has achieved have forever cemented it's iconic status in the hall of fame of internal combustion. The engine I'm talking about is Nissan's RB26 engine. A collection of two letters and two numbers known by virtually every petrol-head on planet earth. Now in today's video we will as always cover the history, specifications and tuning of our engine of choice but in this video we will also be doing something we don't usually do in iconic engines and that is comparing two different engines throughout the video. Of course you can probably guess what we will be comparing the RB26 with.....yes of course the 2jz from Toyota. Now I haven't read up on the rb26 engine in a pretty long time so when I googled it before making this video to refresh my knowledge on a few things I was very surprised to see that the internet nowadays seems to think that the 2JZ is the better engine and the reason for this seems to be all the 1000hp builds and the 2jzs ability to better cope with obscene power. Now I understand that quarter mile racing is the most popular form of motorsport in United states and probably also in Australia and I understand that these two countries sort of dominate the English speaking internet so I it seems that which matters most in quarter mile racing has somehow trickled down into the shared pool of petrolhead opinions and tainted our minds. Now I love drag racing as much as the next guy and definitely do not intend to diminish the achievements of the 2jz. But there is SO MUCH MORE to an engine than it's ability to not fall apart under ridiculous amounts of boost. Saying engine A is better than engine B because it can survive 1000hp longer is like saying CAR A is better than CAR B because it doesn't overheat as fast when idling at 5000 rpm in the middle of the desert. So today I'm going to try and enlighten you and explain why as a man of culture you should prefer the RB over the 2JZ. So the official full engine code of our engine is RB26DETT. 26 is obviously the displacement. 2.6 liters. D is DOHC or dual overhead camshaft, E is electronic fuel injection and the two Ts represent the twin turbos fitted to the engine. So what does RB stand for? Some will tell you it's response and balance or even rhythm and balance. In reality it stands for nothing. It's just two letters designating an engine series like SR, VG, JZ or anything else. But despite this I like to think that RB stands for race bred – because it would really be fitting. To learn where the RB26 comes from we have to look back at the Japanese Touring Car Championship or JTCC. Now throughout its life the Japanese touring car championship would be held under numerous different regulations, including FIA's Group A regulation and would be known under various different names, but it was always Japan's premiere touring car championship, the cream of the crop for touring car racing in Japan, a place where manufacturers could demonstrate the capabilities of their cars and earn the reputation needed to boost sales. Basically the JTCC, later JGTC and finally Super GT was to Japan and much of Asia what DTM was to Germany and Europe. Now the 1987 and 1988 seasons of the JTCC were both won by a Ford Sierra RS500 Cosworth and even though Nissan succeeded in winning the 1989 season with the Skyline GTS-R they had realized well before that their car is becoming less and less competitive. It had roughly the same weight but was down on power compared to the Sierra. So well before 1989 Nissan started to work on a car that had one goal: To obliterate the competition in the Japanese touring car championship. Naganori Ito was appointed as the Chief engineer and Kozo Watanabe as the chief experiment engineer for this project. Now the R32 project was a bit of a personal vendetta for chief engineer Ito. The previous generation of the Skyline, the R31, was seen as a failure from long-time skyline owners, enthusiasts and car critics in Japan and Ito bore the brunt of this criticism. Interestingly enough Ito only had to put his name on the R31 project because he was suddenly assigned to it and asked to finish it due to the fact that the original chief engineer Shinichiro Sakurai had fallen ill. So to clear his name he insisted to be allowed to lead the R32 project from the very beginning. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez Dave Westwood Joe C Support d4a: http://driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com/ Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #iconicengines #rb26 00:00 Men of culture 01:53 History 10:34 Specs 15:07 Tuning 23:11 Cringe

So the story about this little project. I actually picked this bike up as a little side project for myself and to share on Patreon. The bike is a Yamaha TZR 125R from 1994. It's a pretty rare bike that wasn't actually made by Yamaha but by Belgarda, which was Yamaha's distributor in Italy back in the 90s. The VIN of the bike doesn't actually say Yamaha, it says Belgarda. As far as I know these were never officially exported outside Europe. The 125cc market was a big deal back in the 90s and there's a whole history chapter there. These bikes together with the Honda NSRs, Suzuki RG125, Aprilia RS125 and a few other bikes were the most desirable thing a learner could want. They were the stuff of teenage dreams. Pretty expensive though so all the kids wanted them but only the rich kids actually had them. Despite the minuscule displacement this bike allegedly churns out 32 horsepower, probably at like 200 rpm before it's 11.000 rpm redline. The bike code is 4DL and the 4DL engines are very sought after because they were manually modified by Belgarda before install. The engine is actually a Minarelli unit with very obvious signs of hand porting on parts of the cylinder. This video is made of up of bits and pieces of 4 separate videos I made on Patreon over the past months. I actually bought the bike without properly testing it or anything. Rented a car with a tow hook and a trailer and drove around 300 km to pick it up. I got to the location in the middle of the night in the pouring rain so I really couldn't properly inspect anything. So I just bought it. I expected a runner but it wasn't. After a lot of troubleshooting trying to start the bike I realized that it actually had very low compression and that likely something was wrong with the engine so I decided to get the engine out which is an absolute joy to do. Takes about 30 minutes. Once it was opened up we found that inside it was an absolute horror job. Someone attempted to rebuild the engine but had no idea what they were doing. The piston was installed in the wrong direction (even though there's very obvious notches to show you where it's supposed to go) and because of this the little pins that hold the rings in place where in the wrong place so they eventually got knocked off and made a massive gouge line in the cylinder which ruined the compression and the engine. The crankshaft width was also set incorrectly and the crankshaft nose was bent by someone who didn't know how to remove the magneto from it properly. So we fixed all of that. The cylinder couldn't be saved but fortunately I managed to get a new one, got a brand new over-sized piston, had the new cylinder re-bored (fortunately the 4DL engines aren't Nikasil), got all new gaskets, a new starter and put it all back together. Some of you might be wondering what happened with my Kawasaki GPZ 900R project. Sadly I had to sold that bike. Reason number one is that it was far too much bike for someone with next to zero riding experience. Reason number two is that I discovered that the frame was bent so I sold it for parts. I think this bike will be less dangerous and should allow me to experience the joys of motorcycling in a manner more suitable to my skill. I think the bike is pretty cool as it echoes a really cool era and I kinda always wanted a two stroke. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez Dave Westwood Joe C Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #2stroke #twostroke

Today we'll be taking a deep dive into the engine balance of three different kinds of V8 engines: 1. The cross-plane V8 as found in the previous generation of the corvette c7 z06 and in pretty much all other corvettes of the past and almost every single american muscle car ever made. 2. The flat-plane v8 as found in the brand new c8 z06 corvette and in exotics like Ferrari or the Porsche 918 Spyder And finally we're talking about an oddball flatplane v8 in the form of the Ford Voodoo engine that graces the engine bay of the Mustang Shelby GT350. The first thing we need to do is obviously to explain what crossplane and flatplane V8 actually means. Now I'm sure most of you already know this so I'll be very quick about it. In a cross-plane v8 the crankshaft pins where the conrods attach are arranged in two planes which are perpendicular two each other. Hence the name, cross-plane, two planes crossing each other. On a flat-plane the first and fourth pin have 180 degrees of separation between the second and third pins resulting in all the pins resting together in a single plane. This difference in the distribution of crankshaft pins changes the engine's behavior and character influencing almost all the other elements of the engine's design. Now the easiest way to understand the V8 engine is to observe it as two inline four engines, because that's what it essentially is. two inline fours at 90 degrees to each other. Now the flat-plane V8 consists of two flat-plane inline fours and the cross-plane v8 consists of two cross-plane inline fours. In fact the v8 crankshafts look the same the inline four crankshafts, only stretched out so that they can accommodate two connecting rods on each pin. Both the Corvette C8 Z06 and the Shelby GT350 alternate between banks for each firing. Their firing order is different and they number their cylinders differently but neither of these engines fire two cylinders on one bank in succession. This is good not just for engine balance but also for performance because it gives the exhaust pulses in one bank enough time to clear the exhaust manifold before another pulse arrives. Now the crossplane inline four does not have an even firing interval. This unevenness also gets replicated on the cross-plane so the cross-plane does not alternate between the banks in the same way as a flat plane. In the cross-plane both banks experience times when they have two firings in quick succession. By having two cylinders on the same bank fire one after the other we're sending two exhaust pulses in very quick succession down the exhaust manifold. This of course means they can easily stack up which increases back-pressure, reduces performance and complicates the design of the exhaust system on cross-plane v8 engines. So here we can see the flat-plane inline four and here we can see the cross-plane inline four their engine balance forces. The flat-plane has perfect primary and poor secondary balance while the cross-plane has perfect secondary and poor primary balance. But there's good news for the cross plane and that's that the 90 degree V engine configuration is unique in that it can use crankshaft counterweights to balance out pistons. So by adding mass to the crankshaft the crossplane v8 can restore perfect primary balance. The result is incredible smoothness but the price is high weight. The heavy crankshaft is the reason why cross plane v8 engines can never rev nearly as high as flat plane v8 ones. The LT4 engine inside the corvette C7 Z06 manages "only" 6500 rpm, while the C8 Z06 corvette reaches a stratospheric 8600 rpm. The unusual voodoo engine inside the Mustang Shelby GT3500 comes in a close second with 8200 rpm. Speaking of the voodoo the weirdness comes from the fact that this engine uses an up down up down crankshaft configurattion instead of a typical flat plane v8 up down down up configuration. This means that the voodoo engine essentially sacrifices perfect primary balance in the interest of... nothing. The voodoo engine gains a primary rocking couple thanks to its peculiar configuration. But the reason behind it is the incredible soundtrack of the Mustang GT350. The voodoo engine is essentially a flat plane v8 that sounds like a cross plane v8 that lost its mind and went berserk. This was achieved by combining the weird crankshaft arrangement together with a crossplane type intake manifold and unorthodox exhaust headers. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez Dave Westwood Joe C Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #v8 #enginebalance 00:00 Two planes vs One 02:06 Firing orders 04:23 The sound 06:00 Primary and secondary balance 09:12 Crankshaft counterweights and redlines 12:17 How crossplanes make more Torque 14:11 Tolerating secondary imbalance 15:20 Do the voodoo that you do

https://www.weldspeed.com.au/ Billet intake: https://www.weldspeed.com.au/product-page/4age-intake-manifold-big-small-port For fabricators: https://www.weldspeed.com.au/product-page/copy-of-321-stainless-straight-tube In today's video we will be talking about exhaust manifolds or headers. First we will explain what exhaust manifolds do and then we will compare OEM short cast manifolds and equal length tubular welded aftermarket ones, like my awesome turbo manifold from Weldspeed right here, to see how different designs and materials influence the performance of your engine. So as the name very obviously suggests the exhaust manifold has the very simple task of providing a pathway for exhaust gasses. They connect your cylinder head to the rest of your vehicle's exhaust system. An exhaust manifold is always bolted directly to the cylinder head of your engine and when the exhaust gasses exist from the exhaust port the exhaust manifold is the first thing they see. So obviously the exhaust manifold doesn't actually DO anything, it's a passive part, or a collection of pathways through which exhaust gasses flow, but despite it's passive nature, the design of the exhaust manifold can play a very important part in the p Now exhaust manifolds will be very different on naturally aspirated and turbocharged engines. This is obviously due to the fact that a turbocharged engine will have a turbo bolted to the exhaust manifold and then the rest of the exhaust system will be bolted to the turbine housing of the turbocharger. On a naturally aspirated engine the exhaust manifold will be connected directly to the rest of the exhaust system, without a turbocharger in between. Now the design of the exhaust manifold mainly influences 2 things: Scavenging and exhaust back pressure and these two things then influence the power, torque, responsiveness and efficiency of the engine. So what is exhaust Scavenging? In the simplest possible terms exhaust Scavenging is using the exiting of the exhaust gasses to ease the entry of the intake air into the engine to improve performance. But scavenging can not occur the entire time the engine is running. It's heavily dependent on the camshaft specs of your engine but most of all it is determined by your exhaust manifold. Now the scavenging effect is obviously very important for naturally aspirated engines because they depend on the pressure of the atmosphere to get air into the chambers. On a well tuned engine the negative pressure wave can decrease the chamber pressure by as much as 7 psi at a relatively narrow rpm band. On the other hand turbocharged engines don't really depend on the scavenging effect because they can add one or two atmospheres of additional pressure to the intake air over a broad rpm range which greatly improves cylinder filling as soon as the intake valve starts to open resulting in dramatic power increase. Another factor is valve overlap. Although valve overlap isn't necessarily all bad for turbocharged engines having too much of it is counter-productive because you're essentially wasting the work of the turbocharger. By having the intake and exhaust valve open at the same time for too long you're actually sending valuable pressurized intake air into the exhaust which means that you're wasting boost. Now let's look at our cast and our tubular turbo manifold to see exactly how this play out in practice. Probably the first thing you will notice is the difference in length of the runners. The cast manifold has much shorter runners and in addition to this the runners are of unequal length which increases back pressure. To understand how runner length influences back pressure we must understand that pressure inside the manifold spikes every time an exhaust valve opens. By making the runner longer we are enabling a more free flowing form of the runner and by making all the runners of equal length we ensure that each exhaust pulse takes an equal amount of time to reach the turbocharger. The final difference between the two manifolds is the material itself. OEM cast manifolds are usually cast using nodular iron and most will have trouble resisting temperatures beyond 850 degrees Celsius for prolonged periods of time. Tubular aftermarket manifolds usually employ stainless steel. 304 stainless steel is a good and common choice while 321 stainless steel is an even better choice. Stainless steel welded manifolds also have much smoother internal surface compared to the rough surface of cast iron. This of course helps increase gas speed and reduce back pressure. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez Dave Westwood Joe C D4A merch: d4a-store.creator-spring.com... Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #boostschool #exhaustmanifold

All the parts: Stock 2nd 4AFE 7 rib engine block Teardown video: https://youtu.be/QOxfzaX4QCY OEM 4AGE late bigport and 20v Toyota crankshaft. Part no: 13401 - 16020 MRP reinforcement caps: https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/4age-main-reinforcement-caps/ OEM 4AGZE low compression 8:1 semi forged pistons. 0.5 oversize https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/4agze-oem-piston-set/ Part no: 13103 - 16100 Related video: https://youtu.be/GDMiKFrJmY4 MaXpeedingRods connecting rods: https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/product/Toyota-Corolla-E80-E90-1.6L-4A-GE-122mm-Connecting-Rod-High-Performance-4340-EN24-H-Beam-Conrod.html?tracking=D4A Related video: https://youtu.be/-E0H2voOC2M Coupon code: D4A--get 15% discount for all orders King racing rod bearings: https://amzn.to/3EayxDd King racing main bearings: https://shop.battlegarage-rs.com/products/king-toyota-4age-4agze-16v-1-6l-size-std-performance-main-bearing-set ARP 203-5403 main studs https://amzn.to/3EcjIjK A strong engine block is the foundation of every powerful and long lived turbocharged engine and today I'm going to show you in detail the process of building the engine block that I will be using in my turbocharged engine. Addtionally we'll be addiing up the costs of all the elements in the build to see exactly how much a strong, fully machined engine block with all new parts costs. Also links to all the parts you will see in this video are in the description. The engine I'm building is a modest 1.6 liter Toyota 4AFE whose power output I'm planning to triple by turbocharging it. The planned application is street and track driving which means that this an enthusiast level build and has such a budget. As I didn't want to remove the existing engine from my car in the interest of keeping it on the road for as much as possible I decided to buy a junkyard engine and build it. Obviously the first step towards building a block is to completely dissemble the engine and the engine block and remove all the internals from the engine block. As you can see we are working with a pretty old school closed deck cast iron engine block. Although cast iron blocks are heavier than their aluminum counterparts they are a good choice for turbo builds due to their increased strength and rigidity which requires no or minimal reinforcement to cope with high amounts of boost. Once the block is dissembled the next step I have taken is to do all the necessary machining. And this includes boring and honing the cylinders for 0.5mm oversize pistons and decking the block to achieve a perfectly flat surface for the head gasket. Another type of machining that is often done is align honing which looks like this. This ensures that all the main bearing tunnels are of equal size and in perfect alignment with each other . Although many machine shops in my are offer this service I decided against doing it because all of my main bearing tunnels were within spec. align honing is good practice but it requires a lot of operator skill and all the tools to be equally worn. I have seen some negative experiences from align honing that unfortunately did more harm than good so after taking into account my current measurements and the difficulty of finding Toyota 4A blocks I decided to not take chances and leave things as they are. I also machined the block to allow the fitment of oil squirters. This not something that is typically done and it did create some minor damage on the block which needed to be welded up but more on this later. After all the machining is complete I decided to remove all the loose surface rust on the block to prepare it for painting later on. But what's much more important than rust on the outside is cleanliness on the inside. The block will be full of metal shavings and dust after machining as well as grime and other debris from previous engine operation. This is why cleaning the engine block as thoroughly as possible is incredibly important for any engine build. Any metal shavings or other foreign matter left inside the block can cause engine damage and ruin your investment. I cleaned the block by spraying gasoline under pressure into every nook and cranny. Gasoline is a good solvent and helps remove old oil gunk and grime and it also flushes out metal particles. It is especially important to clean every engine oil passageway. These can be found at the oil filter location, at all the main bearings, as well as inside the block going to the cylinder head. Another extremely important area to clean is the main oil gallery. In my case it's even more important because I have drilled holes and cut threads into the main oil gallery resulting in a massive amount of metal shavings inside it. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez Dave Westwood Joe C D4A merch: d4a-store.creator-spring.com... Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #projectunderdog #engineblock

00:00 Intro 00:35 Motorcycle and car applications and firing intervals 05:00 Acceleration, Velocity and Force 07:58 Primary balance and vibrations explained 12:22 180° and 360° twins primary balance and rocking couple 16:10 270° primary balance 16:49 Secondary balance and vibrations explained 20:07 180° and 360° twins secondary balance 21:34 270° secondary balance and rocking couple 22:40 Balance summary and reasons why the 270° twin is so popular nowadays 25:25 Pumping losses What is up engine heads, today we’ll be taking a very detailed look at the engine balance of parallel twin engines and we will compare the three different widely used parallel twin configurations that can be seen on motorcycles and even in some cars, the 360, 180 and 270 degree inline twin or parallel twin engines. Although this will be a very detailed and long explanation I promise that it will be organic and easy to understand for everyone and I guarantee that if you pay attention, by the end of this video you will have the satisfaction of a newfound appreciation for the reciprocating piston engine. So let’s start from the basics. An inline twin or parallel twin cylinder engine is any engine where the there are two cylinders right next to each other in the same line using the same cylinder head. An inline twin can also be called a straight twin or a parallel twin engine because the two cylinders are in parallel. The only other two cylinder configurations are the V-twin and the flat twin. Unlike the inline twin both the v and the flat need two cylinder heads as the two cylinders are physically separated from each other. Now when it comes to the inline twin cylinder engine there are three widely used configurations. 360 degrees (most British bikes from the 1930s and onward such as the Norton Commando, BSA A65, Matchless, Triumph Bonneville, BMW F800GS, Kawasaki W800 and the Fiat Twin air engine ), 180 degrees(Most two cylinder Japanese bikes from the 60s including the Honda CB450, Suzuki GS400, Yamaha XS500, with modern examples being the Ninja 650 and the Yamaha R3 ) and finally 270 degrees (Honda Africa twin, Honda NC750, New Honda Rebel, Aprilia RS660, Tuono and Tuareg, BMW F900XR, All Triumph twins after 2016 like the street twin, street scrambler, bonneville, bonneville bobber, yamaha mt-07, yamaha r7, yamaha tenere, Royal Enfield continental GT and interceptor ). The degrees refer to the firing interval of the engine in crankshaft degrees. First up we have the 360 degree twin. In the case of this configuration the pistons move up and down together. So a cylinder fires, the engine rotates 360 degrees and then the other cylinder fires, again we rotate 360 degrees fire the first cylinder and so on. In other words the engine has an even fire interval and fires once every revolution. Next up we have the 180 degree twin. In this case we have 180 degrees of separation between the two crank pins. This of course means that when one piston is at TDC or top dead center the other piston will be at BDC or bottom dead center. And as the engine runs it looks like this. A cylinder fires, the engine rotates 180 degrees and then the other cylinder fires. Obviously because we’re talking about four stroke engines here when the second cylinder fires the first one is still the other is on the exhaust stroke which means that the first cylinder must complete exhaust and also do intake and compression before it can fire again. Each stroke is 180 degrees which means that the engine must rotate another 540 degrees before it can fire again. The result is that the firing interval is uneven and goes 180 540 180 540. Finally we have the 270 degree parallel twin. In this case there is 270 degrees or 90 degrees separation between the two crank pins, depending on how you look at it. The result is that one piston always trails the other by half a stroke or by 90 degrees or crankshaft rotation. When it comes to the firing interval of the 270 degree twin we have the following scenario: A cylinder fires, the engine rotates 270 degrees and then the other cylinder fires. When the second cylinder fires the first one will have completes half of its exhaust stroke which means that it has to complete the remaining half of the exhaust stroke and then do intake and compression which is 90 + 180 + 180 which equals 450 degrees. Meaning that the engine has to rotate another 450 degrees again before it can fire the first cylinder again. The end result is again an uneven firing interval of 270 450 270 450 270 450. This is the same as a v-twin which results in the 270 degree parallel twin having a similar soundtrack and character to a v twin. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez Dave Westwood Joe C D4A merch: d4a-store.creator-spring.com... Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #paralleltwin #enginebalance

00:00 Intro 00:39 From logs to wheels 05:22 Greeks, Egyptians and Celts 07:14 Dunlop, Michelin and Goodyear 11:22 Wire wheels 14:15 Alloy wheels 16:08 Carbon fiber wheels 18:14 The future of wheels Today we're exploring the history and the evolution of the wheel. Wheels played a very large role in shaping and building our world and today we will pay tribute to this simple but genius invention. So when was the wheel invented? Well if you think a rolling log is a wheel then wheels can be traced back to the second half of the neolithic where they played a key role in the in the construction of megalithic buildings. But ancient humans sought way to escape the unpredictability and difficulty of rolling logs and thus moved onto a combination of sledges pulled over logs fixed into the ground. As the sledges rolled across the logs over and over they wore grooves into them creating something similar to a wheel and axle combo. Interestingly enough the first actual wheels weren't used for transport, instead they were potter's wheels and the oldest ones have been discovered in Mesopotamia in the area roughly corresponding to today's Iraq. These ancient potter's wheels have been dated to 3500 BCE while the first wheels used for transportation appear roughly around 3200 BCE. Early wheels were solid wooden discs which were cumbersome and inefficient. Ancient Greeks made them lighter by inventing the H-type wheel, but it was the Egyptians who really shaved weight from the wheel by inventing the spoke around 2000 BCE. The Celts attached iron bands (rims) around the outside of the wheel thus dramatically improving their durability around 1000 BCE. The first major improvement to comfort came in the form of pneumatic (air inflatable) tires with Rober William Thomson's patent for pneumatic tires in 1847. Although he was granted a patent his idea never saw the light of day. Instead the first functional air inflated tire was made in 1888 in Belfast by John Boyd Dunlop. Dunlop's tire quickly spread across the wheels of bicycles but didn't yet hit cars as car's weren't widespread. Credit for being the first to put pneumatic tires on cars goes to brothers André and Edouard Michelin. They further perfected the pneumatic tire by patenting a removable one that could be installed and removed without the usage of glue. Both both Dunlop's and Michelin's invention stands on the shoulders of Charles Goodyear who patented the process for tire vulcanization in 1844. Another key evolution for the wheel happened with the advent of the wire wheel. Patents for it were granted as early as 1802 but wire wheels became truly widespread on cars following the birth of the tangential wire wheel which was stronger than the radial kind, but only after 1907 when the Rudge Whitworth company patented the detachable wire wheel (Borrani wheels bought their license and thus share the logo). The next big step for wheels was aluminum/ aluminium casting. The first to successfully cast aluminum wheels was Ettore Bugatti in 1924 after which he used them on the legendary Type 35 racer. Harry A. Miller did patent the concept for casting the wheels even before in 1920 but ever actually made any. Aluminum wheels offered many benefits such as better heat conduction and a more open design, both of which help with brake cooling. On top of this they enabled endless design possibilities which can also help aerodynamics and the aesthetic aspect of vehicles. They are also stiffer and cope better with high speeds. This is also one of the reason why wire wheels are still used on enduro, adventure and trial bikes, as their increased flexibility is better at resisting deformation when ridden over rough terrain. The final step in the strength and weight equation came in the form of carbon fiber wheels. The first ones come all the way from 1971 when Michelin made them for Citroen's SM rally car and later for road going SMs. America's first CF wheel was on the Dodge-Shelby CSX-VNT and the first single piece carbon fiber wheels came from Koenigsegg in 2013. Porsche offered the first braided carbon fiber wheels in 2017. Other than Porsche and Koenigsegg all other cars with CF wheels had them supplied by a company called Carbon Revolution. What about the future? Well thanks to the compactness and their nearly endless design posiblites the wheels of the future may become the motors of the future, and already are in many markets in the form hub motors. But if hub motors aren't futuristic enough for you don't worry because hubless motors might become a thing too. Tires may be de-evolving back into their airless selves and increased competition may bring down the price of carbon wheels. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez Dave Westwood D4A merch: d4a-store.creator-spring.com... Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #history #wheels

00:00 How chamber volume affects the compression ratio 04:32 How to equalize chamber volumes 10:00 Benefits of polishing What is up engine heads, today I'll show you how and why to equalize the volume of your combustion chambers. As you may know your engine's compression ratio is the relationship between the largest and smallest volume of your cylinder. The largest volume is achieved when your piston is at bottom dead center while the smallest volume is achieved when the piston is at top dead center. This obviously means that your smallest volume practically equals the volume of your combustion chamber, which means that your compression ratio is strongly influenced by your combustion chamber volume. When it comes to my build I have actually significantly modified my combustion chambers. My cylinder head is a 4AFE Toyota economy cylinder head which I'm planning to turbocharge. The valves were heavily shrouded so I had to remove a lot of material to enable better airflow. This meant that I increased the volume of my chambers significantly. Of course I was doing all of this modification by hand which dramatically increased the chances of the chambers having large volume inequalities. . The first step is obviously to finalize the shape of your combustion chambers. The next step is getting a piece of thin transparent Plexiglas that is longer and wider than your cylinder head. Next we're going to install a set of dummy spark plugs and then we're going to overlay the Plexiglas over our chambers and mark the position right above the spark plug. Now we're going to drill out the four holes that we marked. Now we're going to install all of our valves. We're going to smear the sealing surface on the back of each valve with vaseline or petroleum jelly. We're doing this because we need the valves to actually seal and not let water past them because we'll be later using water to measure the chamber volume. Next we will need two syringes. A large and a small one. The large one must be larger than the volume of your combustion chamber. The small syringe must be able to measure 0.1 or one tenth of a millilitre. Now we're going to smear a thin layer of vaseline around the outside of the combustion chamber. A little bit goes a long way. Wipe away any excess as there must not be any vaseline inside the chamber. We'll first fill the chambers completely to see approximately how much volume they have. We will do this using only the large syringe as accuracy isn't paramount during this initial volume estimate. Once we have done the initial estimate we will remove the plexiglass and restart the process. Because each chamber is around 35cc I will fill each chamber with exactly 34cc of water. This time around accuracy becomes paramount and your measurement will only be as good as your accuracy with the large syringe. Getting the exact amount of water into the syringe consistently requires a bit of patience but if you do it properly this process will have a pretty decent degree of accuracy. Once you have the correct amount of water inside the syringe inject all of it evenly and carefully into the chamber. Now we're going to use the small syringe to fill the remaining volume of the chamber. As you can see here my last two chambers are the same but the first and second are not. This means that I must remove a bit more material from the first and second chamber to equalize them to my last two chambers. We will lift the plexiglass and evacuate the water from the chambers and get our air die grinder again. Once all the chambers are equal you can finish things off by polishing the chambers. Obviously polishing removes an absolutely minimal amount of material that doesn't really affect the volume. Doing this before equalizing the volumes doesn't work because you'll ruin the polish each time you grind away material. The logic behind the polishing is that it minimizes the chances of a hotspots but it also makes it harder for carbon to build up on the chamber surface. Less carbon buildup is always good because it ensures consistent performance and compression ratio and it also reduces the chances of a piece of carbon buildup falling off and acting as a hot spot for pre-ignition. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez Dave Westwood D4A merch: d4a-store.creator-spring.com... Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #combustionchamber #projectunderdog

00:00 Behind the scenes 01:44 Weldspeed exhaust manifold 03:37 The story behind the manifold 08:13 Manifold length and flanges 10:39 Stealthy hose clamps 11:20 Rotating assembly 18:45 Oil pump, studs, bearings 22:10 Head gasket 28:28 Gaskets 31:21 GFB BOV 32:22 Transmission and MRP clutch kit 34:58 Flywheel 37:11 Ignition coils 39:52 Analog to CAN 41:11 Fuel pressure reg 41:59 MAP, IAT, switchable maps 45:54 AEM Inifnity 5 ECU 48:21 Educational value 50:55 Fuel pump 52:04 Boost control 52:46 Other sensors 55:24 Digital dash 59:36 Time frame and other mods --- BUILD SPECS --- - ENGINE BLOCK - Stock 2nd 4AFE 7 rib engine block OEM 4AGE late bigport and 20v Toyota crankshaft. Part no: 13401 - 16020 OEM 4AGZE low compression 8:1 semi forged pistons. 0.5 oversize Part no: 13103 - 16100 Related video: https://youtu.be/GDMiKFrJmY4 MaXpeedingRods connecting rods: https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/product/Toyota-Corolla-E80-E90-1.6L-4A-GE-122mm-Connecting-Rod-High-Performance-4340-EN24-H-Beam-Conrod.html?tracking=D4A Related video: https://youtu.be/-E0H2voOC2M Coupon code: D4A--get 15% discount for all orders King racing main and rod bearings ARP main cap studs - CYLINDER HEAD - Stock 4AFE cylinder head with stock cams. Lightly ported 4AGE valve springs Head porting video: https://youtu.be/m0pCJC0B3Hk 4AGE vs 4AFE head: https://youtu.be/Ea5G0Jnvum0 Midship Garage supplied custom 1.4mm/ .056" 4AFE MLS head gasket https://midshipgarage.com/ ARP head studs - INTAKE AND EXHAUST - Stock intake manifold - to be upgraded during the second or third stage of the build Weldspeed 321 equal length stainless steel exhaust manifold. T25 flange https://www.weldspeed.com.au/ MaXpeedingRods billet wheel GT2871 turbo: https://bit.ly/3lUQuzO Coupon code: D4A--get 15% discount for all orders. - FUEL - AEM fuel pressure regulator: https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/fuel-delivery/adjustable-fuel-pressure-regulators/universal-adjustable-fuel-pressure-regulator AEM fuel pump: https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/fuel-delivery/high-flow-fuel-pumps/340lph-e85-compatible-high-flow-tank-fuel-pump-65mm-offset-inlet - ECU, IGNITION AND SENSORS - AEM infinity 5 series: https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/programmable-engine-management-systems/infinity-ecu/infinity-series-5 AEM MAP: https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/sensors-connectors-accessories/map-pressure-sensors/stainless-steel-map-psia-sensors video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ytHbFVkWOJg&t=270s AEM smart coil: https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/ignition-components/high-performance-coils/high-output-igbt-inductive-smart-coil video: https://youtu.be/L_hx8I6GzyU AEM IAT: https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/sensors-connectors-accessories/temperature-sensors/air-inlet-temperature-ait-sensor AEM CD-7: digital dash https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/cd-digital-dash-displays-adapter-harnesses/cd-7-super-bright-sunlight-readable-full-color-dash-displays AEM 3 Port boost controller: https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/boost-controllers/boost-control-solenoid video: https://youtu.be/hYIL_XvlYTE AEM fluid temperature sensors: https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/sensors-connectors-accessories/temperature-sensors/water-temperature-sensors - TRANSMISSION, CLUTCH, FLYWHEEL - Rebuilt E51 transmission with Quaife ATB differential MRP clutch kit: https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/4agze-16v-20v-heavy-duty-clutch/?v=5fc810cf6260 Related video: https://youtu.be/Sih-YRIeNWI 4AGE 20v OEM blacktop flywheel. Part no: 13405 - 16110 - GOALS, BOOST, COMPRESSION - 300 hp available maps switchable on the fly 1 - 1.3 bar of boost 9:1 static compression ratio Educational value A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez Dave Westwood D4A merch: https://d4a-store.creator-spring.com/... Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Here's an easter egg for scrolling all the way here: https://youtu.be/GhviGzAkAVc #d4a #projectunderdog

Step by step secondary balance explanation: https://youtu.be/8alrpieveDg (start at 01:08) Audiovisual demonstrations of different engines: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5W4P8cYkNV6pFqZVkjuXLg 00:00 Inline four is everywhere 01:52 What's a crossplane crankshaft 03:47 Crossplane and flat plane engine balance 12:37 Crossplane firing interval 14:50 Flat plane vs crossplane sound 18:06 Big bang engines in MotoGP and their benefits 24:22 Why no other bike went crossplane The inline four cylinder engine is likely the most plentiful engine configuration in the world. It outnumbers other engine configurations because it offers an optimal blend of physical size, efficiency and power potential for most applications. And you can find an inline four engine in thousands upon thousands of different cars, bikes, boats, trucks, you name it – it’s everywhere. Walk through a city street almost anywhere in the world and chances are very slim that there isn't an inline four somewhere very near you. And if you would take any of those countless inline four engines and opened it up inside you would find a crankshaft that looks like this. In fact at the heart of every single inline four you can find on the roads of the world lies pretty much the same crankshaft. There may be slight variations, different materials and manufacturing processes, a different number of counterweights. But all of them have essentially the same crankshaft. Well all of them except one…….. This is the crankshaft in the Yamaha R1 and as you can see it’s different from all the others. So why is the Yamaha R1 inline four engine different from all the other inline fours out there and to what end? Well today I’m going to try and answer that question as thoroughly as possible with this detailed video. We will explain what the crossplane crankshaft is, how it differs from the flat plane, how this influences engine balance and what advantages and drawbacks it brings to the table and then with this information in mind we will talk about the history of big bang engines in MotoGP to see why they came into existence and what benefits they offer in the real world. We will end the video by answering the question of why other brands never adopted the crossplane crankshaft in their production bikes and why it never made it into another Yamaha fan favorite, the R6. So let’s get started. Now, as you can see all the crankshafts inside every production inline four out there have 1 key feature in common and that is that two of the crank pins point up and the other two crank pins point down. The result is of course that pistons move in pairs. When two go up two must come down. This type of crankshaft is called a flat plane crankshaft because all the crank pins are located in a single plane. But starting with the 2009 model year Yamaha’s flagship 1 liter sportbike the R1 made a radical step away from this convention. As you can see its crankshaft doesn’t have two crank pins pointed up and the other two 180 degrees away. Instead each crank pin is pointing in its own direction. If we set our crankshaft so that the first crank pin points up then the second crank pin will be rotated 90 degrees from it. The third crank pin will be 180 degrees from the second and the fourth 90 degrees from the third. In more simple terms one points up, one left, one right, one down. So why are 99.99% of inline four crankshafts out there flat plane instead of crossplane. The answer to that is that if one takes a rational objective approach towards designing an inline four engine the flat plane design offers more benefits and less drawbacks then a cross plane one. To understand why 99.99% of inline fours are flat plane we must understand how the primary and secondary engine balance of flat plane and crossplane inline fours differ from each other. In flat plane inline four the pistons move in pairs. When two go up the other two go down. In other words piston one balances out piston two and piston three balances out piston 4. A crossplane inline four also has an even number of pistons so we should have no problems with primary balance right? The inner two pistons are separated by 180 degrees so they balance each other out. The outer two pistons are also separated by 180 degrees so they also balance each other out. It’s the same thing as a flat plane but only with different pistons. So this means that the crossplane should have perfect primary balance just like the flat plane right? Wrong. Yes the number of pistons is even but the problem is their distance from and relationship with the engine’s center of mass which results in the crossplane engine having something called a rocking couple. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez D4A merch: https://d4a-store.creator-spring.com/... Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #crossplane #enginebalance #yamahar1

Billet wheel turbo: https://bit.ly/3lUQuzO Super affordable turbo: https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/product/gt28-gt25-gt2871-gt2860-t25-t28-sr20-ca18det-upgrade-400hp-turbo-turbocharger.html?tracking=D4A Coupon code: D4A--get 15% discount for all orders. JK Fab video: https://youtu.be/0BJrmBvsdq8 So here we have two MaXpeedingRods turbo chargers. At first glance they look pretty much identical right? They're both "GT28" turbos with nearly identical specs but one costs almost four times as much as the other? Why? Because one is a lot stronger than the other and today we're going to use these two turbochargers as an example to learn what makes a turbo strong and better capable of handling higher boost, more abuse and more racing use. These two turbine housings may look similar but they're made of completely different materials. The low cost turbine housing is made from nodular iron while our other turbo has a stainless steel turbine housing. Now stainless steel is definitely the superior choice for a turbine housing due to two main reasons. Reason one is that it has a higher temperature resistance and reason two is that it offers better resistance to oxidation. Now we're moving onto the compressor housing. Now both of these compressor housings are made from the same material ZL104 aluminum. The compressor housing together with the compressor wheel comprises the cold side of the turbo and obviously it never sees temperatures anywhere near of what the turbine housing sees which is why temperature resistance is much less of a factor on the cold side. The zl104 is the alloy name according to the Chinese GBT standard and the ISO equivalent is AlSi10Mg. This is a pretty nice aluminum alloy traditionally used for casting. As aluminum alloys go It's a pretty tough alloy with good hardness and good strength. Because of it's good casting properties it's ideal for cast parts with thin walls and/or a complex geometry – of which compressor housings are a clear example. Both of these compressor wheels are aluminum, but this one is cast and this one is MFS, or machined from solid. In other words this is a billet compressor wheel. So why is this one better? It's better because of the same reason anything billet or forged is better than anything cast when it comes to automotive applications and it all comes down to the internal grain structure of the part. The grains structure refers to the size and orientation of the little microscopic individual grains that make up a chunk of something. This size and orientation of these grains depends on the type of the material but also on the way a material is made and parts grain structure ultimately plays a key part in it's strength. The more uniform it is the better. Although casting has come a long way it is still impossible to prevent a relatively random grain structure with cast parts and it's also difficult to guarantee there will be no internal porosity with casting, especially with low-tech methods. On the other hand the billet process is completely different. It starts out with a solid chunk of metal that has been previously forged or extruded giving it a good grain structure and then you simply machine away whatever you don't need from that chunk giving you a finished part of the desired shape with the preserved grains structure of the initial billet. Now both of these turbos are pretty identical inside and are full floating journal bearing turbos. Now I do plan to make a detailed comparison video between ball bearing turbos and journal bearing turbos in the future so for now I will say that although many people prefer ball bearings and they do offer faster spool and are ultimately a superior choice in many aspects there are still significant benefits to be had from journal bearings. Journal bearings need more oil which means that they ultimately help the cooling of the core and when everything is running properly journal bearings can last infinitely as they are a no contact bearing, they ride on a film of oil which also means they can be very effective at absorbing abuse and vibrations making them pretty handy in racing scenarios. So what are the the lessons we can learn from this? Well it's actually pretty simple. The more extreme your application and the more boost you want the more heat resistance and mechanical strength you will need. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez D4A merch: https://d4a-store.creator-spring.com/... Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a​ #d4a #boostschool

AEM SS MAP sensors: https://bit.ly/d4a-map-sensors AEM wideband: http://bit.ly/D4Axserieswb AEM IAT: https://bit.ly/D4A-iat-sensors AEM FLUID TEMP: https://bit.ly/D4A-fluid-temp-sensors AEM EGT: https://bit.ly/D4A-egt-sensors 00:00 Intro 00:57 Crankshaft position sensor 02:54 Camshaft position sensor 03:58 Throttle position sensor TPS 05:44 Mass air flow sensor MAF 07:39 Vane air flow meter AFM 08:44 Manifold absolute pressure sensor MAP 10:27 Oil pressure sensor 11:55 Fuel pressure sensor 12:34 Intake air temperature sensor IAT 14:09 Coolant temperature sensor 15:22 Fuel temperature sensor 16:16 Oil temperature sensor 17:24 Oxygen 02 sensor 20:18 Exhaust gas temperature sensor EGT 22:05 Nitrogen oxide sensor NOx 23:01 Knock sensor 24:07 Quick recap of key sensors 25:53 Outro In this video we're explaining every single car engine sensor. For each sensor we'll be explaining what it does, how does it do it, where is the sensor location and what happens if the sensor goes bad. There's also OBD2 error codes for all the sensors. Stuff like P0335, P0118, P0131, P0340, P0300, P0102, P0113. So the next time you have a problem with one of your sensors you will know what's happening, why is it happening, where is the sensor and what will happen if you don't fix it. To make the video as simple and as logical I have grouped the sensor into 5 categories. 1. Position sensors (crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, throttle position sensor) 2. Air flow sensors (mass air flow sensor MAF, vane air flow meter) 3. Pressure sensors (MAP or manifold absolute pressure sensor, oil pressure sensor, fuel pressure sensor) 4. Temperature sensors (IAT or intake air temperature sensor, coolant temperature sensor, fuel temperature sensor, oil temperature sensor) 5. Air fuel ratios, emissions and others (oxygen 02 sensor both wide band and narrow band, egt or exhaust gas temperature sensor, nitrogen oxide or nox sensor for SCR selective catalyst reduction and the knock sensor) We'll see how each sensor communicated with the ECU and how each sensor is a piece of the puzzle. When they all work together correctly the ECU gets to see the big picture and accurately and efficiently manage the operation of the engine. For example the crankshaft position sensor tells the ECU where the piston is so the ECU knows WHEN to inject the fuel. Air flow sensors like the Mass air flow sensor or the map sensor tell the ECU how much air is coming into the engine so the ECU knows HOW MUCH fuel to inject. The throttle position sensor and the intake air temperature sensor tell the ECU the load placed on the engine and the intake air temp which further improves the accuracy of the injection. The final stream of information necessary for injection accuracy comes from the fuel pressure sensor which lets the ECU calculate exactly how long it needs to keep the injectors open in order to deliver the precise quantity of fuel needed. In case something does go wrong we have the life saver sensors like the knock or oil pressure sensors. The knock sensor listens for knock or abnormal combustion and if it detects it it warns the ECU and the ECU in a matter of milliseconds retards ignition timing and/or adds fuel to prevent knock from occurring again. The oil pressure and oil temperature sensors make sure that the engine oil, the lifeblood of the engine, is within functional parameters. As soon as it even briefly drifts out of expected values the ECU can protect the engine and warn the driver. All in all modern cars are a moving world of information where a large number of sensors rapidly provides endless amounts of data that gets interpreted at lightning speeds by the ECU where it triggers a sea of different actions that keep you moving smoothly and safely along the road all while preserving efficiency and minimizing emissions. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez D4A merch: https://d4a-store.creator-spring.com/... Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a​ #d4a #enginebootcamp

Go Fast Bits: https://gfb.com.au/ GFB TMS Respons: https://gfb.com.au/products/blow-off-and-diverter-valves/respons-tms/ The BOV from this video: https://gfb.com.au/products/blow-off-and-diverter-valves/respons-tms/respons-tms-t9033-adjustable-bias-venting-diverter-valve-bov-detail/ Let's imagine a concrete scenario. You have your foot on the throttle and you're flooring it. The throttle plate is wide open and the engine is trying to make the most powerful combustions it can and as such it's also producing a lot of exhaust gasses very rapidly. These exhaust gasses drive the turbine wheel which then spins the compressor wheel as they're connected together with a common shaft. The more exhaust gasses are being sent into the turbo the faster the compressor wheel spins and the more it compresses the air. So when the throttle plate is fully open we have both high airflow and high air pressure. We have high air flow because the throttle plate is fully open and there is no restriction to airflow. We have high air pressure because the turbo is working hard to compress the air and stuff more of it into the same space. So what happens when we release the throttle? What happens is that we transition from a situation of high airflow and high pressure into a situation of low air flow and even higher pressure. The rapidly flowing pressurized air coming from the turbo suddenly hits a dead end and has nowhere to go. At the same time the turbo is still rapidly spinning and trying to keep stuffing the air into the engine which it can't do because the throttle plate is closed and this blockage further increases the pressure in the piping. Now the blades of the compressor wheel are designed to „grab“ the air and push it onto the engine. In a situation where we have enough air pressure and enough airflow followed by a sudden closing of the throttle plate the dramatic drop in airflow and subsequent pressure spike can actually overpower the aerodynamic capabilities of the compressor wheel blades which results in them no longer being able to „grab“ onto the air causing compressor surge aka turbo flutter. If you look at a compressor map of any turbocharger the left-most line is your surge line. Everything left of that line is the surge zone. In the simplest of terms when compressor surge or turbo flutter occurs it means that there is too much air pressure and too little air flow for the compressor wheel to do it's job. When this happens the air has nowhere left to go and it carries so much pressure that it can actually force its way back through the turbo, past the compressor blades and out the intake. This wrong way out actually becomes the only exit path for the high pressure air. Compressor surge in a car engine is almost never powerful enough to stop a turbo from spinning and it can never cause a turbo to start spinning in reverse. But what it can definitely do is slow the turbo down and shorten the lifespan off the turbo as it exposes it to increased stress. The sound of compressor surge or turbo flutter and is often voiced as stutututu or chu chu chu chu.....in fact each of those stu or chu is a small chunk of air separating from the blades and escaping past the compressor wheel out the intake. The first stu is going to be the loudest because it has the most pressure behind it and each subsequent stu will be less loud until all the excess air pressure is gone. So how do we get rid of compressor surge or turbo flutter that occurs when we release the throttle? The answer is simple – instead of relieving pressure back out past the compressor wheel we relieve the pressure somewhere else. And that's exactly what a BOV or a blow-off valve does. It gets rid of the excess air pressure in the piping when you suddenly release the throttle. By getting rid of the excess air pressure at a different location we do not subject the turbocharger o the increased stresses associated with turbo flutter. A blow-off valve has a piston inside it. When the throttle is wide open both the top and the bottom of the piston see the same air pressure because the top of the blow-off valve piston references pressure from inside the intake manifold. But when the throttle plate closes the top of the BOV sees vacuum and the bottom boost pressure. This means that the boost pressure can easily overpower the spring on top of the piston and open a path for the pressurized air either to be vented to atmosphere (blow-off) or recirculated in front of the turbo inlet (re-circulation or diverter valve) A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez D4A merch: https://d4a-store.creator-spring.com/... Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a​ #d4a #boostschool #stutututu 00:00 What is turbo flutter (compressor surge)? 08:40 How a BOV prevents flutter 12:07 How a BOV works 13:55 Where to install a BOV 14:30 When a BOV can't help

Raybrig headlights: https://amzn.to/2VSwLWA Full story of the Raybrig NSX: https://japanesenostalgiccar.com/motorsport-honda-nsx-jgtc-supergt-raybrig-blue-livery-last-race/ So today we're doing something we haven't done in a long time and that's to work on the mr2. And what we're doing is installing and reviewing these Raybrig headlights. These are an upgrade from the stock glass lights and are supposed to offer better lighting performance as well as a more modern look. As you can see they fit a very wide variety of vehicles that have pop-up headlights or use the standard rectangular 5x7 headlights. Obviously to install the new headlights we need to remove the old ones, but before we do that I'll take a little drive in the darkness to record the performance of the old headlights for reference and comparison. To remove the old headlights we need to remove both the top metal cover and the black plastic enclosure. On each side of the headlight you will find four bolts. The top two bolts hold the top cover and these two bolts hold the black plastic enclosure. Now we have access to the four bolts which hold the metal surround and the headlight in place. We're only interested in the top two and bottom two bolts. We're not touching the bolts on the sides as these are only for beam angle adjustment. Unfortunately the bolts that hold the headlight are Philips head bolts that have rusted into oblivion and removing them with a screwdriver is impossible. What I usually do in situations like these is to simply get an angle grinder and cut slots into the heads of the bolts. Of course you want to be extra careful with the angle grinder here to prevent damage to any other parts of the car or the headlight surround. Once you have the slots cut you can use a flat screwdriver and remove the bolts. I have only removed the top two bolts as there isn't enough room for the angle grinder to access the bottom two bolts. I then disconeccted the headlight connection and very gently bent the metal surroung to remove the headlight Raybrig is well known Japanese brand in the lighting industry and they are part of the Stanley Electric groUp. However since March of 2021 Stanley electric has discontinued the Raybrig brand name and these lights are no longer manufactured with the Raybrig branding on them. In the future these will be manufactured with the same high quality specs but with Stanley branding instead. I personally really like the look of the raybrig lights as they are an upgrade without looking tacky or too modern. My set is the clear type but you can also get these with a light blue tint which is also looks really nice. I decided to transfer my old bulbs into the new headlights to make the comparison as fair as possible. Once the bulbs are in the install is simply the reverse process of removal. But now for the real test with footage on the same road and on the same night, using the same bulbs, just an hour apart. Top is stock, bottom is raybrig. As you can probably tell there is a lot of difference between the two. At first the raybrigs felt a bit weird to me because they cast a lot of light on the sides and very adjacent to the car, it's hard to describe, but it was something I wasn't used to. I believe this is a consequence of the raised side profile of the light. It But after a few minutes you get used to this effect and it isn't something bad. When it comes to low-beam performance the raybrigs are definitely better. They light up more of the road and they light it up better. You can also see more stuff on the side of the road, so at night these are definitely safer and a better choice than stock. When it comes to high beams I honestly always thought the stock lights were good. So although raybrig might be marginally better here too it's not something very noticeable. Overall the only advantage of the stock lights is that they're made from thick glass so they're virtually indestructible under normal use but other than that they rabyrigs are a really nice upgrade. They improve safety and at least in my opinion look a lot better too. And there you have it I hope you find this little video helpful if you decide to change the headlights on your car too. As always thanks a lot for watching and I'll be seeing you soon with more fun and useful stuff on the d4a channel. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez D4A merch: https://d4a-store.creator-spring.com/... Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a​

Lego motors: https://amzn.to/2QPF2Z3​ Motors in action: https://amzn.to/2QRZWa6 Lego motors with remote: https://amzn.to/3eb6TMp​ More action: https://amzn.to/2RoqTBY Serious action: https://amzn.to/2PPojVq Medium Lego motor: https://amzn.to/3uc3K4f​ Large Lego motor: https://amzn.to/3e6Si4w​ XL Lego motor: https://amzn.to/3vtLxiQ​ Battery box: https://amzn.to/3ucf0O2​ Don't like motors? https://amzn.to/2SqQ73m Today's video is a follow up from our previous video where we used LEGO and lego motors to explain the concepts of horsepower and torque. In today's episode we're going to add gears into the equation to see how they can be used to manipulate torque and speed. So here again we have our two motors. The large motor generates 0.14 newton meters of torque and the smaller motor generates 0.03 newton meters of torque. Last time we have seen that the small motor couldn't generate the torque needed to move this heavy arm. Now we're going to use gears to enable the small motor to move the heavy arm. Instead of trying to move the heavy arm directly with the small motor, we're going to connect a gear to the motor's shaft and we're going to attach another gear to the heavy arm. We're going to call the gear on our motor the driver gear. Because this is the gear where the force input is and this the gear that does the work. This gear has 8 teeth We'll call the gear on the heavy arm the driven gear, this gear receives the force input and has work done on it. This gear has 40 teeth. How do we obtain the ratio between the two gears? We simply divide the number of teeth on the driven gear by the number of teeth of the driver gear. And the result is 5, this is our gear ratio. So what does the gear ratio tell us? It tells us how much we have increased the torque using this gear arrangement. Our initial torque on the small motor was 0.03 Nm. To figure out the new torque output value at the large gear we simply multiply the initial torque with our gear ratio. So 0.03 Nm x 5 gives us 0.15 Nm. This means that with the help of gears the small motor is now outputting more torque than the large motor. So why does this gear arrangement increase the torque coming from the motor? The answer is pretty simple...it's because the large gear is larger than the small gear. To fit a larger number of teeth onto a gear you must increase it's radius. By increasing the radius you're increasing the physical distance between the force input and the force output. In other words by increasing the radious you're increasing the leverage provided by the gear. The gear acts like a lever, and as you probably know or have experienced yourself the larger the lever the larger the force output. The torque increase coming from larger gears comes at a price and the price is rotation speed. Our small lego motor has an initial torque of 0.03 Nm that we have increased to 0.15 Nm using a gear ratio of 5. But our gear ratio of 5 also reduces speed. Our small lego motor is capable of doing 275 full rotation in one minute. It spins at 275 rpm. It's significantly faster than our large lego motor which does 146 rpm. But as you can see after we install our gears to increase the torque the small lego motor actually becomes slower than the large motor. How much slower? We can again easily calculate that using our gear ratio. We simply divide the inital speed with the gear ratio to get our new output speed. So 275 divided by 5 is 55 rpm. This means that to have more torque than the larger motor the small motor had to it's speed. By becoming five times stronger it also became 5 times slower. So why does this kind of gear ratio decrease speed? The answer is again simple and again it's the gear size. To fit a larger number of gears we need a larger gear radius. A larger gear radius also means a larger circumference, or the total length along the edge of the gear. The larger the circumference the more distance needs to be covered to make the larger gear achieve one full rotation. Our gear ratio can aslo be expressed as 5:1. It tells us that for every 5 rotations of the driver gear the driven gear makes only one rotation. All of this explains why gear ratios of a typical car transmission usually look something like this. The lower gears reduce speed and increase torque. This because we need the most torque to get the vehicle going from a standstill in first gear and we also need torque to help increase acceleration to get the vehicle up to speed. But once we're up to speed the vehicle has a lot of inertia and we don't need as much torque to push it along, what we need is increased rotational speed or an increased number of wheel rotations per minute to allow the vehicle to achieve even higher speeds. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez D4A merch: https://d4a-store.creator-spring.com/... Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a​ #d4a #lego #gearratio

https://midshipgarage.com/ Quaife ATB diff - https://midshipgarage.com/products/quaife-toyota-mr2-turbo-sw20-89-99-a-t-b-helical-lsd-differential-for-e153-transmission?_pos=1&_sid=9f421405d&_ss=r&variant=28536254693481 OEM Viscous - https://midshipgarage.com/products/genuine-oem-toyota-e153-non-lsd-axle-stubs?_pos=1&_sid=3e19dfbb0&_ss=r&variant=32312543510633 Novus Center Console: https://midshipgarage.com/products/midship-garage-toyota-mr2-spyder-mr-s-zzw30-novus-center-console?variant=39310517796969 Parts diagrams Gears: https://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1989_TOYOTA_MR2_AW11-WJMQR_3305.html Shift forks: https://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1989_TOYOTA_MR2_AW11-WJMQR_3307.html Oil feed: https://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1989_TOYOTA_MR2_AW11-WJMQR_3308.html Other: https://www.toyodiy.com/parts/g_J_1989_TOYOTA_MR2_AW11-WJMQR_2.html In today’s video I’ll be showing you how to install a limited slip differential, more specifically a quife ATB differential into a manual gearbox. This will be a detailed step by step video covering the entire process and since we’re opening up the transmission we’ll also be rebuilding the transmission along the way so I’ll be showing you that as well. I’ll be showing you the LSD install and transmission overhaul on a Toyota E51 transmission but the process is very similar for all other front wheel drive or mid-engined manual transmissions. Obviously to install an LSD into this type of transmission you will need to get the gearbox out of the car. In case of my mr2 the easiest way to get the gearbox out is to get it out together with the engine. This means that the optimal time for doing LSD installs is when you’re doing transmission and/or engine rebuilds as you’ll be killing two birds with one stone like this. Once the transmission is out the first thing I usually do is to clean it. Transmissions often have years of drit, grease and other contaminants on them and you want them cleaned away before doing any work on the transmission because if you don’t clean them you will get everything else dirty and just spread the dirt around. Once cleaned it’s time to get the transmission onto a working surface and drain any oil from it. We’re going to start by popping out the axle stubs. Next we remove the clutch fork and start taking the transmission apart. First we remove the three bolts inside the bell-housing. After that we remove the gear selector levers, and then the gear selector shaft itself To proceed with the transmission rebuild we must unbolt and remove the transmission top cover. Then we remove the snap ring on top of the input shaft and after that the shift fork together with the fifth gear sleeve. Next we need to remove the hub that sits on top of the fifth gear synchro on the input shaft. Fortunately the fifth gear on the output shaft has a nice big lip on it so after a bit of heat a regular claw type gear puller gets it off with relative ease. After we remove the shaft retainer plate it's time to remove the three snap rings that hold the shift fork shafts in place. After that we’ll unbolt the middle casing and lift it off from the rest of the gearbox. Now the output shaft, the differential and the shift forks together with the input shaft can easily come out. Once everything is clean inside the transmission we start by removing the old output shaft bearing. Here you can see how the old bearing has lost its shine. The non-shiny parts have lost their surface hardness and such a bearing is no longer usable. We then install the new plastic oil squirter and then the new bearing shell gets gently hammered it. Next it’s time to install the Quaife limited slip differential. Here you can see the Quaife LSD side by side with the stock open differential. We’re going to transfer both of the differential bearings and the ring gear from the stock differential to the Quaife. First we remove both of the differential bearings, and then we unbolt the ring gear, and finally gently hammer it off the stock differential. Next the ring bear bolts get thoroughly cleaned in gasoline, the differential bearings get pressed on to the LSD, the ring gear gets gently hammered on, the ring gear bolts get a dab of Loctite and then get bolted down using the weakest setting on the impact wrench. The final step is to torque them down. Next it’s time to replace the synchro. I’ll only be replacing the fourth gear synchro as it seems that someone replaced the first, second and third gear synchros together with the differential bearings during the last rebuild. Obviously to get to the synchro we need to remove some bearings and gears from the shaft. Once we replace the synchro we install everything in the reverse order of removal. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez D4A merch: https://d4a-store.creator-spring.com/... Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a​ #d4a #lsd #projectunderdog

This video was entirely conceived, directed, shot and edited by my friends Nermin and Iva of @our pirate life (IG: https://www.instagram.com/our_piratelife/?hl=en YT: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFf9Q-F7HujoGV9bX5Fvfmg) All I did was show up and pretend to be cool. In the past I tried shooting a video like this myself but the results were usually underwhelming. When we shot this video I learned why I failed before. I failed because shooting videos like this is incredibly hard. You have to think of the lights, the time of day, the shadows, camera angels, people and cars passing by and ruining shots, and you need an incredible amount of gear and organisation and the ability to adapt quickly to changing circumstances. Shooting these 55 seconds of video took an entire day at a remote location (Blidinje Nature Park) and tons of footage of which obviously only a fraction was used. I finally understand why the credits of full length and feature films have an army of people in them. But I'm happy we shot this little film and immortalized my humble Toyota MR2 in it's current bike carb itb guise. There will be many changes to the AW11 in the future so I'm glad I'll always be able to remember it in this form. Although it does look a lot better in the video than it is in reality :) But memories are there to be idealized anyway. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez D4A merch: https://d4a-store.creator-spring.com/... Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a​ #d4a #mr2 #aw11

AEM ECU: http://bit.ly/D4Ainfinity5​ AEM water-meth: https://bit.ly/2zrOkSp?utm_source=D4A...​ AEM boost controllers: http://bit.ly/D4AtruboostX​ AEM wideband AFR gauge: http://bit.ly/D4Axserieswb​ Today we're talking about the number 1 killer of boosted engines. Knock. We are going to understand what it is, how ti differs from pre-ignition, how it correlates with other things in your engine and of course how to avoid it and how to control it. So what is knock? The simplest explanation of knock is that it's abnormal combustion, but to truly understand it we must dive deeper than that and to understand what is knock we must have a good understanding of what's actually happening inside the engine. So let's imagine our cylinder is on the compression stroke. Both the intake and exhaust valves are closed and the piston is traveling upward and compressing the air fuel mixture inside the cylinder. Now the spark plug will actually fire before the cylinder reaches it's top most position of travel or top dead center. The spark plug must fire before the piston reaches TOP DEAD CENTER because the goal is to ensure that maximum combustion pressure builds up by the time the piston starts traveling downward. So how do we ensure that maximum pressure builds up when the piston is right past TDC? By firing the spark plug before the piston reaches top dead center. This is called ignition advance. Firing the spark plug earlier accounts for the piston speed and gives enough time to the combustion to build maximum pressure right on time. So in the beggining of the video we said that knock is abnormal combustion. Now normal combustion inside a gasoline or petrol engine occurs like this: air and fuel is compressed inside the cylinder. The spark plug fires and initiates the combustion. Combustion spreads out evenly from the spark plug until all or most of the air and fuel is burned off. Knock occurs like this: Air and fuel is compressed inside the cylinder. Spark plug fires and initiates the combustion. Now as the combustion spreads it exerts pressure onto the still uncombusted air and fuel. At this point one or more pockets of uncombusted air and fuel spontaneously ignites before it's reached by the flame front traveling from the spark plug. Now knocking is also called detonation. Detonation is a combustion process characterized by a super-sonic flame front. Meaning that it travels faster than the speed of sound which is 343 meters per second. Detonation creates destructive shock-waves that have the potential to damage everything around them. When a pocket of air and fuel self-ignites it actually detonates and it's these shock waves the cause a brief but intense spike in cylinder pressures and create the characteristic knocking sound. If knocking is strong enough or persists long enough it will damage or destroy engine components. In contrast to this normal combustion is not detonation. Normal combustion is something called deflagration. Deflagration is characterized by a sub-sonic flame front meaning that it travels below the speed of sound. Deflagration increases pressures inside the cylinder in a gradual and controllable manner without unpredictable pressure spikes. Ok so that's knock. What's pre-ignition? Knock and pre-ignition differ from each other in their timing. As we have seen knock occurs AFTER the spark plug fires, but pre-ignition occurs BEFORE the spark plugs fires. Pre-ignition happens while the piston is still moving upward on the compression stroke. The air fuel-mixture ignites spontaneously before the spark plug fires. In most cases pre-ignition can be more destructive because it happens on the compression stroke. So why do knock and preignition occur? The simplest and most common answer is because temperatures inside the cylinder get too high. Why is that a problem? It's problem inside a gasoline engine because a gasoline engine compresses both air and fuel. If temperatures gets high enough it can lead to spontaneous ignition of the air fuel mix and we get detonation. The actual ignition source for pre-ignition is in many cases some sort of a hot spot which can form at a carbon deposit, spark plug tip or a sharp and protruding edge in the combustion chamber. The overly high temperatures can heat the hot spot until it glows red hot and this can lead to pre-ignition or knock. Back in the day the safeguard against knock was to run a low compression ratio and leave a big safety margin. The reason behind this is that there wasn't any active knock control. If knock occurred the engine had no way of responding to it. But today things are very different. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez D4A merch: https://d4a-store.creator-spring.com/... Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a​ #d4a #boostschool #knock

https://www.startengine.com/alfadan 00:00 Intro 00:51 Question 1 How did you come with the ALFADAN inline four? Is there a story behind it? 06:09 Question 2 A lot of people pasted Patent US10378578B1 into the comments section. I remember that when we spoke on the phone you told me this isn't what's inside your engine so can you tell us a bit more about that? 09:36 Question 3 A few people asked for you to publicly reveal the Mahle reports. Any comments on that? 12:41 Question 4 A lot of people also commented that the internal combustion engine is dead and making investments in it is pointless. Electricity is the future. What do you think about this? 15:45 Question 5 Why boats? Why not cars, motorcycles or planes? 19:55 Question 6 You've been mentioning MAHLE a lot. Can you tell us more about their role in the project and what they bring to the table? 24:04 Question 7 Can you tell us more about ALFADAN prototypes 35:06 Question 8 What's the time-frame? When can we expect to actually see the ALFADAN engine? A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez D4A merch: https://d4a-store.creator-spring.com/... Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a​ #d4a #alfadan #inlinefour

Check out Atlas VPN: https://atlasv.pn/Driving4Answers “They don’t make them like they used to!” I’m sure you heard someone say this when talking about cars, or maybe it’s something you think too. But is it really true? Are older cars more reliable, easier to maintain and capable of longer lifespans? Are car manufacturers using planned obsolescence to make sure their cars don’t last much past the warranty period so we’re forced into buying new ones? Today we’re going to answer all of these questions Let’s start from the basics. What do car manufacturers do? Obviously they make cars. Why do they make cars? So they could sell them for a profit. Car manufacture is a manufacturing business like any other. Making pots and pans, computers, shoes, etc. You manufacture things and sell them for a profit. If there’s no profit you go bankrupt and the company ceases to exist. So profit for car companies is like air for humans, without it we die. To ensure their cars sell well car manufacturers have to meet the needs and expectations of the consumers and at the same time they also have to abide by various government regulations. Both the expectations of the consumers and the standards of government regulations are constantly on the rise. Consumers want ever better, faster, safer, and more attractive cars while governments want the cars to have ever lower emissions and environmental impact. Obviously to meet all of these demands car manufacturers must make the cars more complex. The more complex they are the more parts they have, the more parts there are the higher the chances of failure right? On top all of this cars must be competitively priced so car manufacturers must somehow cut costs while at the same time increasing the number of parts. So this explains the plastic thermostat housing? It was made from plastic not because car manufacturers are evil but because they had to cut cost somewhere to keep the car competitively priced while meeting government regulations and consumer expectations. It’s the rapidly changing world that forced them to make plastic thermostat housings as well as plastic valve covers, water pumps, intake manifolds and more. Well yes, cars have become a lot more complex over the years and as such they obviously require a lot more engineering and more parts and this does to an extent increase the possibility of failure. But there’s also an illusion that many of us have when it comes to the reliability of old cars. Many modern cars can easily do 150.000 miles without any major servicing or overhauls. In fact there’s a number of them that manage to do 500.000 miles and more. Back in the 60s and 70s a car that did more than 100.000 miles was considered “over the hill”, I mean they had 5 digit odometers that would roll over to zero when the car hit 100.000 miles. But by the 80s and throughout the 90s technology and quality control had become so good that factories gave birth to some truly memorable machines that seem to refuse to die. Even today, 30-40 years later there’s a high number of these cars still going strong on the road and racking up miles. But we also mustn’t forget that many of these cars are on the road because they’re exceptionally well taken care of and constantly maintained. Whether it is vehicle value, rarity, emotional attachment or something else, owners are willing to go to great lengths to keep certain old cars alive. For example the amount of money I had to spend to make and keep my 1987 Toyota MR2 roadworthy would be more than unacceptable for a newer car. But here’s the elephant in the room, the Government regulations that only concern themselves with emissions and safety while the car is on the road. There are absolutely no laws and rules that tell manufacturers how long a car’s lifespan should be or how repairable or easy to maintain a vehicle should be. This means that manufacturers are completely free to make things like alternators and other components that cost a small fortune but aren’t serviceable. Or they can make components that are comprised of multiple parts fused into one. Of course when only a small part fails you have to replace the entire thing. Often the cost of these components can be as high as a third or even half the value of a 5 year old car. Of course all of this can easily be justified because it contributes to a 0.5% reduction in emissions and that’s all government regulations at this point care about. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Brian Alvarez D4A merch: https://d4a-store.creator-spring.com/listing/d4a-merch? Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a​ #d4a #oldcars #plannedobsolescence

https://www.startengine.com/alfadan What is up engine heads, today I have something really interesting for you, a brand new inline four cylinder engine that has the potential to completely change the game. Why? Because it claims that it has overcome the single greatest limiting factor of any inline four cylinder engine – and that is its displacement. A few days ago I was researching and fact checking for one of my future videos and then I stumbled onto this page. This is the startup investor page for AlfaDan inc. Never heard of them? Neither have I. As you can see they’re looking for investors for their brand new marine outboard engine and have already raised more than a million dollars. But that’s not what’s interesting. What’s interesting is that this is an inline four engine that aims to outdo V6 and V8 engines at everything. Now I’m not really familiar with the outboard powered boat industry but apparently the big deal is that these boats have grown over the years and by doing so they also need more power to push them through water. So the solution has simply been to add more outboard engines. Obviously this isn’t an optimal solution as it increases weight and fuel consumption. And here’s where things get really crazy. ALFADAN claims that their revolutionary inline four engine offers 50% more horsepower, 50% less weight and 50% less moving parts compared to all current outboard engines. In other words 3 Alfadan inline fours can make the same power as 6 competitor engines at half the weight. I was like yeah right…..I’ve heard plenty of too good to be true claims over the years and that’s exactly what they usually are…too good to be true. So I decided to read on to see how exactly they claim to have achieved this. And here as you can see they talk about the inherent secondary imbalance we just spoke off, but more importantly they claim to have solved this design problem with a patented re-design of the i4 drive train, allowing ALFADAN to produce the very first high displacement inline four-cylinder engine. So I kept scrolling down and things got pretty serious. This isn’t just empty claims, a proof of concept and feasibility study has already been completed. And not just by anyone, the feasibility study has been done my Mahle powertrain. As you may know Mahle is one of the most reputable names in the industry of engines and engine parts. The pistons inside the Bugatti Veyron are Mahle for example. I believe that says enough. Mahle has been at the forefront of engine downsizing, turbocharging and improvement efficiency. But that’s not all. Alfadan has another big name behind them. Freevalve. You probably heard of them too. The sister company of Koenigsegg Automotive that has been making news headlines by developing a camless engine. That’s right. No camshafts which means no cam gears which means no timing chains or timing belts. The end result? A dramatically downsized engine with dramatically reduced friction and dramatically increased power potential. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Andrew Ruud Brian Alvarez Holset90 D4A merch: https://d4a-store.creator-spring.com/listing/d4a-merch? Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a​ #d4a #inline4 #alfadan 00:00 Why are all inline fours limited in displacement 10:56 Alfadan i4

A good read: https://amzn.to/3bvW71h Best sounding car ever? https://amzn.to/3w8HqJt Dress the part: https://amzn.to/3w48sS8 Keep it clean: https://amzn.to/3tVbxCG Keep it tidy: https://amzn.to/3huzJsY What is up engine heads. Today it's time for our first engine from Italy in iconic engines and it’s the famous and sonorous Alfa Romeo V6, aka the Busso. Why is it called busso? It’s called Busso because the man who designed it is called Giusseppe Busso. So Mr Giuseppe Busso was born in 1913 in Torino or Turin. He graduated from the Polytechnic University of Turin and after completing military service he snagged his first job in 1937 which was working as a calculator aka human computer for Fiat’s aeronautical engine department and experimental railway office. But Mr Busso wasn’t calculating for long. In 1939 he was recruited by mr Wilfredo Ricart, a Spaniard heading Alfao Rome’s Servizio Studi Speziali or special projects office. Here Mr Busso worked on racing engines and also researched and tested various advanced engineering theories. In 1946 he became Ferrari's first ever technical director. In 1948 he traded places with Gioachino Colombo who went to work for Ferrari and Busso returned to Alfa romeo. This was the beginning of the Busso years for Alfa Romeo during which the brand transformed from a low volume sports and luxury car maker into a mass production power house. In the years to come Busso’s engineering mind would be instrumental in developing many of Alfa’s most memorable classics such as the Giulietta, the Giulia, the 1750, the 2000 and the Alfetta GT and GTV6. The Busso V6 started life in 1979 as a 2.5 liter single overhead cam 12 valve engine under the bonnet of the newly released Alfa 6. At this time many upmarket cars from German, French, Japanese and even American manufacturers were already sporting some form of electronic fuel injection, but the first Busso V6s rolled out of the factory with 6 Dell’ Orto FRPA 40 carburetors. To this day many are of the opinion that the Busso V6 is the best sounding V6 engine ever made. Inspired by the positive feedback for the engine in the years to come Alfa Romeo decided to play a game called „let's stuff a Busso into everything“ and so in 1983 the face-lifted Alfa 6 received the fuel injected Busso, in 1984 it was the Alfa Romeo 90, in 1985 it was the Alfa Romeo 75. 1986 was the last year of Alfa Romeo as an independent manufacturer. In this year Alfa was taken over by Fiat and ironically merged with it's traditional rival Lancia into Fiat's company called Alfa Lancia Industriale S.p.A. Under Fiat's guidance and to the dismay of many enthusiasts Alfa Romeo would tart moving away from rear wheel drive platforms to front wheel drive platforms. The first of such models was introduced already in 1987. It was the front wheel drive 164 and under it's hood was of course a Busso engine. Fiat may have killed front wheel drive, but they couldn't kill the Busso. The Busso grew from 2.5 to 3.0 liters. It also received the most memorable visual feature of the Busso V6, the beautiful shiny intake tubes. By the end of the 80s the whole 12 valve single overhead cam thing was very passe. Everybody was on the DOHC train. But the 12v Busso V6 received a very special swan song. It's most powerful version would grace the engine bay of the special Alfa Romeo SZ. But the 12v version would continue living all the way until 2000, albeit in a diminutive size and with un-natural aspiration. Yes, it had a turbo! The turbocharged 2.0 liter v6 turbo was introduced in 1991 on the 164 to allow Italians to avoid the heavy tax of all cars with engines larger than 2 liters. But sadly the 90s were the beginning of the end for Alfa Romeos famed and historic Arese plant. But it wasn't over yet. The Busso V6 would not go out without one last throaty roar. In 2001 Alfa romeo released the 156 GTA - Gran Turismo Alleggerita and in it's engine bay was the final version of the Busso V6. A big thank you to my friends Alfa owner 159 (https://www.youtube.com/user/TheAlfaowner) and Stephen Bello for their valuable contributions to this video. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Andrew Ruud Brian Alvarez Holset90 D4A merch: https://d4a-store.creator-spring.com/listing/d4a-merch? Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a​ #d4a #iconicengines #busso d4a is part of amazon affiliates cringe lyrics Sono il miglior motore del maestro busso Il mio suono per le tue orecchie e un vero lusso Faccio i giri più liscio della pasta genovese di tua nona se corro e non sono distrutto è una fortuna buona sono il v6 che non dimenticherai mai volermi guidare di nuovo è l'unica cosa a cui penserai 00:00 Ciao 02:15 History 15:56 Specs 20:31 Tuning

Last Sunday I published a video where I tried to make a very down to earth and visual explanation of Horsepower and Torque to help anyone confused by the two concepts wrap their head around them. And apparently it worked for a lot of people as I received a lot of positive comments and feedback. This made me extremely happy and I am very grateful for all the comments and feedback. But I also received a very high number of comments containing this phrase: "Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you". I decided to make this follow up video in hopes of clearing away the misconceptions around this and similar explanations of horsepower and torque that are very frequently used in the car community. I believe that reinforcing these explanations as facts isn't a very good idea as they are ultimately misleading and will serve as a poor knowledge foundation for someone who doesn't understand the concepts. NOTE: In the video I said that we will come back to the first part of the definition "horsepower is how fast you hit the wall" but I didn't actually come back to it. I apologize for that. This video was completely unscripted and made ad-hoc as I was getting overwhelmed with the sea of identical comments. What I wanted to say was this: If our two cars from the same example have everything identical except the amount of horsepower, then yes, the one with more horsepower will be capable of hitting the wall faster. But if everything else is identical (max rpm) than the car with more horsepower also must have more torque. This means that you could just as well say that Torque is how fast you hit the wall. The gist of the video is that horsepower is not how fast you hit the wall. That's speed. And horsepower is only one factor influencing speed. There are also aerodynamics, gear ratios and much more. Torque is definitely not how far you take the wall. That's momentum. If we imagine two cars, one with 1000 Nm of Torque and the other with 100 Nm of Torque, with everything else on the cars being absolutely the same, these two cars will carry the wall the absolutely same distance if they both have the same mass and hit the wall at the same velocity. This is because momentum is only influenced by mass and velocity. Basically the main problem with all the quasi definitions of horsepower and torque are that they're trying to correlate horsepower and torque to acceleration and speed. This doesn't work because acceleration and speed are complex concepts influenced by multiple factors so these "definitions" need like 5 disclaimers to have an even remove chance of working, and a definition that needs disclaimers isn't very good at doing it's job. The only definition that really doesn't need a disclaimer is that torque is a rotational force and horsepower is the rate of that force. This definition underlines another key problem of the other "definitions" and that's their separation of torque and horsepower. Trying to draw distinction between the two concepts only creates confusion because horsepower and torque are in fact inherently connected. Horsepower is torque times rpm. Horsepower is very much dependent on torque. The more torque you have the higher the chances that you'll also have more horsepower. If you must have a car and a wall here's a better use of a car and a wall. Torque determines whether you can move the wall from a standstill. Horsepower determines how fast you can keep pushing the wall. This is still far from perfect and refutable but it's a better definition as it isolates torque and horsepower a bit better and takes acceleration and velocity and vehicle mass out of the equation. Original artwork characters in the thumbnail are from POWeeeeeRRRRRRRRRRrrrrRRRRRRRR by Sadyna https://www.deviantart.com/sadyna/art/POWeeeeeRRRRRRRRRRrrrrRRRRRRRR-202444167 A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Andrew Ruud Brian Alvarez Holset90 D4A merch: teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch​ Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a​ #d4a #horsepower #torque d4a is part of amazon affiliates

How to increase torque with gears: https://youtu.be/txQs3x-UN34 Lego motors: https://amzn.to/2QPF2Z3​ Motors in action: https://amzn.to/2QRZWa6 Lego motors with remote: https://amzn.to/3eb6TMp​ More action: https://amzn.to/2RoqTBY Serious action: https://amzn.to/2PPojVq Medium Lego motor: https://amzn.to/3uc3K4f​ Large Lego motor: https://amzn.to/3e6Si4w​ XL Lego motor: https://amzn.to/3vtLxiQ​ Battery box: https://amzn.to/3ucf0O2​ Don't like motors? https://amzn.to/2SqQ73m In today's video I'll be using Legos to give you the most visual explanation and demonstration of horsepower and torque. If you have ever been confused by horsepower and torque I guarantee that after watching this video these two concepts will never confuse you again. So let's get started, and we're starting with Torque. Now this LARGE Lego motor outputs 0.14 Nm and this smaller LEGO motor outputs 0.03 Newton meters. What's a newton meter? Well a newton meter is a MEASURE of torque. It measures HOW MUCH torque is being generated. What is torque? The simplest explanation of torque is that it's a ROTATIONAL FORCE. It's the ROTATIONAL equivalent of LINEAR FORCE. When you take this bolt and push it you're applying linear force to it. But when you decide to bolt it down you're applying torque to it. In both cases a certain amount of force is present but what's different is the direction of that force. So our LEGO motors are outputting a certain amount of torque that we have expressed in Newton Meters. 1 newton meter of torque simply equals the force of 1 Newton applied at the end of an arm that is one meter long. So for example if we take this bolt and use this wrench which is one meter long and apply a force of 1 newton at it's end the resulting torque present at the bolt will be ONE NEWTON-METER. Newton meters confuse you? No problem, because torque can also easily be expressed in foot pounds. 1 foot pound of torque is equal to the force of 1 pound being applied at the end of an arm that is 1 foot long. So in this scenario I'm using the stored energy in my muscles to generate torque at the bolt. Our Lego motors are doing the same thing, they're using the electrical energy stored in these batteries to generate torque or rotational force, and as we have seen our large Lego motor is outputting more torque than our small motor. This difference in torque can EASILY BE FELT. If we install a small shaft into our motor we can feel the difference in rotational force coming from these motors. The difference in torque output is very obvious and the large motor feels much stronger and it's very difficult to stop it. Just like our LEGO motors THE MOTORS in modern electric cars use the stored energy in their battery packs to generate torque. On the other hand internal combustion engines rely on the energy stored in fossil fuels to generate torque. The key word in the word horsepower is POWER. What is power? Power is the rate at which work is done, in more simple terms power measures how often a certain force is applied over a given period of time. You could even call power = activity. It measures how many times you can repeat the same action over a given period of time. This means that torque is influenced by only one factor – the amount of rotational force But horsepower is influenced by two factors – the amount of force and how many times that force can be exerted over a given period of time. Now we're going to attach these blocks onto the shafts of our Lego motors so that we can more easily observe how fast each of them rotates. As you can see the small motor actually rotates faster that the large motor. In fact over the period of one minute the small motor makes 275 rotations while the large motor makes only 146 rotations. This means that although it can't generate as much torque as the large motor, the small motor applies it's torque at a greater rate over the same period of time. This means that while torque can be both felt and observed horsepower cannot be felt in the same sense. If we put our fingers against the shaft we're feeling the torque, we're feeling the force against our fingers. When we're sitting inside a car and the car accelerates we're again feeling the force pushing us against the seat. We can only feel the amount of force, and because torque is only a force we can feel it. But horsepower isn't only a force, it's a measure of the rate of force. In the case of engines and motors it is the amount of rotational force or torque multiplied by rotations per minute or rpm. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Andrew Ruud Brian Alvarez Holset90 D4A merch: teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch​ Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a​ #d4a #horsepower #lego d4a is part of amazon affiliates

MaXpeedingRods Conrods: https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/category/h-beam-connecting-rods.html?tracking=D4A Coupon code: D4A—get 15% discount for all orders Tools for measuring: 0-150MM 0.01mm/0.0004 Inch Outside Micrometer set https://ban.ggood.vip/WVod​ 50mm-160mm 0.01mm Dial Bore Gauge http://bit.ly/36jYWQI​ 35mm-50mm Dial Bore Gauge kit https://ban.ggood.vip/WVoz​ How to zero micrometers and dial bore gauges: https://youtu.be/1vejKSxzGC8 The music: https://youtu.be/qtlHWvHV4BE In today's video we're doing a precision measurement of the tolerances in the rod bore of the MaXpeedingRods connecting rods. We're doing the measurement to see whether the rods abide by generally accepted machining standards and tolerances before installing them into my turbo 4afe engine build. On their website MaXpeedingRods claim that the rods are honed to a 0.0001mm tolerance, unfortunately this is likely a typo as these types of tolerances are pretty much impossible to achieve on a mass produced aftermarket or OEM connecting rod. Instead I'll be using a dial bore gauge to check the rods at multiple point to see whether they have out of round and taper outside of the generally accepted 0.0005 inch or 0.013mm of tolerance. After measuring all of the MaXpeedingRods connecting rods the verdict is that they pass inspection and are within 0.010 of tolerance which is pretty good considering their price point and the fact that they undercut comparable rods in price yet performed no worse when it comes to tolerances (from my experience measuring and seeing a few dozen enthusiast rod options for different engines measured by professional machinists at least). A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Andrew Ruud Brian Alvarez Holset90 D4A merch: teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch​ Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a 00:00 Methodology 03:28 Measurement 10:04 Results #d4a #projectunderdog

CD-7: https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/cd-digital-dash-displays-adapter-harnesses/cd-7-super-bright-sunlight-readable-full-color-dash-displays CD7 flat panel: http://bit.ly/D4Acddash CD-5: https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/cd-digital-dash-displays-adapter-harnesses/CD-5-Carbon-Digital-Racing-Dash-Displays CD-5 flat panel: https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/cd-digital-dash-displays-adapter-harnesses/cd-5-carbon-flat-panel-dash-displays Vechicle dynamics module: https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/vehicle-dynamics-and-gps-modules/vdm Behold the AEM CD-7 digital dash display a valuable future addition to the mr2 and a super powerful educational tool. In this video we do some ASMR, have fun with Nagatoro and we also do some sensible stuff too. We design a completely custom CD-7 screen from scratch so that we can see just how quickly and how much the AEM digital dash can be customized. We also talk about some of its advanced features such as warnings, alarm screens, map switching on the fly, track mapping, analog signals and much much more. I also explain the role this amazing thing will play in the Project Underdog build, my turbo 4AFE Toyota MR2 mk1 A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Andrew Ruud Brian Alvarez Holset90 D4A merch: teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch​ Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a 00:00 ASMR 01:19 custom screen from scratch 07:59 maps and screens 10:40 GPS power 16:45 The plan #d4a #projectunderdog

https://midshipgarage.com/ Quaife ATB diff - https://midshipgarage.com/products/quaife-toyota-mr2-turbo-sw20-89-99-a-t-b-helical-lsd-differential-for-e153-transmission?_pos=1&_sid=9f421405d&_ss=r&variant=28536254693481 OEM Viscous - https://midshipgarage.com/products/genuine-oem-toyota-e153-non-lsd-axle-stubs?_pos=1&_sid=3e19dfbb0&_ss=r&variant=32312543510633 Novus Center Console Pre-Sale: https://midshipgarage.com/products/midship-garage-toyota-mr2-spyder-mr-s-zzw30-novus-center-console?variant=39310517796969 The LEGO LSD design I used: https://youtu.be/2NLjbwt1C70 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is version 2 of this video. The previous version was deleted as it had some misleading things in it. I also regret being a bit stubborn when defending the merits of my previous explanation, and although it did have some merit it was ultimately misleading and some parts were outright incorrect. I would like to thank all the commenters for pointing out the mistakes. Although some were rude and aggressive a great number of people was very constructive, mature and polite when pointing out the mistakes in the previous video, and to these people I offer my sincere gratitude. I don't shy away from admitting my mistakes, I see them as an opportunity for growth and work hard to correct them. The mistakes in the previous video were: 1. Open diff sends more torque to slipping wheel. 2. Welded diff splits torque 50/50 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So let's start with the open differential. This is something you can find in the vast majority of cars on the road today. Especially in non-performance or „normal“ cars. The differential has one purpose. It allows you to take a corner. In other words a differential enables two wheels on the same axle to rotate at different speeds. So what would happen if we didn't have a differential? Because the two wheels are now physically joined together they are unable to rotate at different speeds. Because of this the wheels have to make up for the difference in speed by skipping, hopping or sliding. You can experience this if you take a real car with a welded differential and try to negotiate it around a parking lot. Of course this isn't a desirable scenario as it not only wears out your tires faster but it puts a lot of strain on your axles and other drive-train components. On top of this it can make a lot of noise and draw unwanted attention. Obviously none of these issues will be present with a normal open differential. To better understand the limited slip differential we have to go back to the open differential. If there's one thing you have to remember about the open differential is that torque being sent to the wheels through an open differential will always look for the path of least resistance. So if one wheel is easier to turn or slip that wheel will limit the amount of torque available to the other wheel. If one wheel is on ice and the other is on asphalt and it takes only 15 Nm to break traction on the ice wheel than the open differential will prevent the wheel on asphalt to receive more than 15 Nm as well. Now let's replace the open differential with our limited slip differential. As you can see the wheel with low traction doesn't spin at all and the vehicle takes of immediately. The answer to how the LSD achieves this is in the name itself. Limited slip differential. It limits wheel slip. So in the same scenario with one wheel on ice the limited slip differential will not allow the slipping wheel to waste the torque potential of the engine. It will not allow the slipping wheel to prevent the wheel with traction from receiveing more torque. So if it takes 15 Nm to break traction on the ice wheel the other wheel will not be limited to 15Nm as well, instead the limited slip differential will bias torrque to that wheel and that wheel will receive more torque. A torque biasing differential can have a biasing ratio as high as 4:1. This means that if it takes 15Nm to break traction on the ice wheel the LSD can bias as much as 60Nm to the wheel on asphalt which is more than enough to get the vehicle moving quickly and without slipping. The welded differential effectively turns the rear axle into a solid common axle and the entire rear axle behaves as a single unit, which means that the low friction on one wheel becomes irrelevant because 100% of the engine's torque is available to both wheels all of the time. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Andrew Ruud Brian Alvarez Holset90 D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #LSD #weldeddiff 00:00​ Intro-ish 02:43​ Getting unstuck 11:39 FF vs FR vs MR

0-150MM 0.01mm/0.0004 Inch Outside Micrometer set https://ban.ggood.vip/WVod​ 50mm-160mm 0.01mm Dial Bore Gauge http://bit.ly/36jYWQI​ Dial Bore Gauge kit smaller diameters https://ban.ggood.vip/WVoz​ How to zero micrometers and dial bore gauges: https://youtu.be/1vejKSxzGC8 What is up engine heads! Today we-re talking about bearing clearances, we will explain what they are, why they're important and how to measure them. When we speak about bearing clearance on an engine we're usually referring to the clearance between the crankshaft rod journal and the rod bearing as well as the clearance between the crankshaft main journal and the main bearing. You probably know that the key parts of your rotating assembly are never supposed to make contact with each other. Instead there's a film of oil between your crankshaft journals and your rod and main bearings. The bearing clearance determines the thickness of the oil film and thus plays a key part in your oil pressure and oil temperatures. If the clearance is too tight, metal to metal contact can occur under loads and during crankshaft flexing which in most cases results in damage and engine failure. Clearances that are too loose will make it difficult for your oil pump to maintain desired oil pressure and will also result in too much oil coming out from the sides of the bearings which will increase crankcase windage. The right clearance depends a lot on the type of engine and its modifications and there is no one size fits all formula. However, There is a rule of thumb and it's this – 0.001 times journal diameter, doesn't matter if it's inches or millimetres. Our engine right here is a second generation Toyota 4AFE 16 valve engine with 48mm main journals and 40 milimeter rod journals. This means that our main bearing clearance is 48 x 0.001 which equals 0.048mm And our rod bearing clearance is 40 x 0.001 which equals 0.040mm. Now let's proceed to measure our bearing clearance. But before we do that we will do quick visual inspection of our crankshaft journals and bearing surfaces. Here we have two used Toyota 4A crankshafts, one which is in good condition and another which is in horrible condition. You can probably tell which is which. Obviously this crankshaft fails visual inspection, it actually spun two rod bearings and as you can see it has very noticeable deep scoring on the rod journals. The same logic applies to the bearing surfaces. Smooth and shiny like this passes visual inspection. Deep scratches and embedded particles fail visual inspection. No we can start our measuring. To do this we will need two tools – a micrometer and a dial bore gauge. In order to measure things accurately we need to zero our tools. To make measuring easier we can set the crank on four main caps and apply a bit of oil to make turning the crankshaft easier. We are going to start by measuring our rod journals. We do this by gently moving the micrometer across the journal while we tighten down the small knob at the same time. The small knob or ratchet ensures that consistent and equal pressure is applied which results in consistent, accurate and repeatable measurements. The goal is simply to make contact with the journal. The micrometer should still be able to slide on and off the journal with a bit of effort. You will feel a bit of resistance but it will be low. When it comes to the main journals we will do the same thing as with the rod journals. Measure at both journal halves and then perpendicular to these two locations. Now that we have our journal dimensions we can go ahead and measure our main and rod bearing bores. Once we have zeroed our gauge we will measure at six different locations. We measure by moving the bore gauge gently back and forth and observing the furthest point reached by the needle. The first and most important location is a vertical measurement perpendicular to the bearing parting line. Now we can proceed to measure our rod bearing bore. Of course we do this with the rod caps torqued down to spec and we measure at the same spots as with the main bearings. Just like with the main bearings we don't measure at or near the parting lines or at or near oiling holes. Instead we measure perpendicular to the parting lines and at around 45 degrees from the vertical axis. To get our bearing clearance we will deduct our vertical axis bearing bore measurement from our largest journal measurement. The result represents our rod and main bearing clearance. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Andrew Ruud Brian Alvarez Holset90 D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #enginebootcamp

Step by step explanation of primary and secondary engine balance: https://youtu.be/82rxavW0A3c Today we're hitting on all sixes as we explore the engine balance as well as the strengths and weaknesses of the four most popular six cylinder engine configurations, the inline six, the v6, the vr6 and the flat six. Let's start with the inline six cylinder engine. We already covered it twice in our videos and many of you by now know that the inline six is a beautifully simple and beautifully balanced engine configuration. It's beautifully simple because it needs only 1 cylinder head and only 1 or two cams. It also needs only 1 exhaust manifold. It's only real downside is that it's long so fitting it transversely is extremely difficult and it needs a relatively long engine bay to fit in longitudinally. But other than the length it's very hard to fault the inline six. When it comes engine balance the inline six is essentially two inline three engine's mirroring each other. You may remember that the inline three cylinder engine has a primary imbalance in relation to it's center of gravity due to it's odd number of pistons. This imbalance is especially apparent every time the first or last cylinder fires. When cylinder one fires the force pushing the piston down in this direction creates a reaction at the other end of the engine and tries to yank the engine upward, in the opposite direction. The third piston can't cancel this force out because when 1 is at TDC, 3 isn't at bottom dead center, it isn't doing the „opposite thing“ in order to be able to cancel out what cylinder 1 is doing – the final result is that the inline three rocks in relation to it's center of gravity. But the inline six doesn't. It doesn't because the inline six is two inline three engine's mirroring each other so the primary imbalances of each individual inline three cancel each other out. When it comes to secondary imbalance the inline three doesn't have problems there because different pistons are at different parts of their stroke which means the there are no significant secondary imbalances in the inline three. The inline six of course inherits this characteristic as it consists of two inline three engines. Now the V6 engine. Last time we learned that separating an inline engine into two banks of cylinders meant that we had to select an appropriate angle between the two banks. The correct bank angle for a V engine that wants to use shared crank pins always equals the firing interval. Because we have six cylinders that's 120 degrees. Unfortunately a 120 degree V6 is impractical for packaging. It's almost as wide a flat six while also being a lot taller. This is why we have to settle for a narrower bank angle which is usually 90 or 60 degrees for most V6 engines. But when we do this we can't have both shared crank pins and an even firing interval. To have an even firing interval a 90 or 60 degree V6 must employ split crank pins. Opposing piston rods are offset by what's called a splay angle. The splay angle makes up for whatever is missing from the bank angle and ensures an even firing interval just like in an inline six. Now the VR6. The best way to explain the VR6 is to imagine it as the child of an inline six father and a V6 mother. A child whose goal was to inherit the good and drop the bad genes of each parent. VW developed the VR6 with the goal of making it compact, like a v6, but without the double cylinder heads, cams, exhaust manifolds and other components all while preserving the inherent balanced nature of the inline six. So how did they do it? Well they did it by creating what's a essentially V6 but with an extremely narrow angle between the banks. Instead of 60 or 90 degrees, a vr6 ENGINE HAS only 10.6 or 15 degrees between the banks, bringing them so close to each other that you can cover all the cylinders with a single, slightly wider, cylinder head. Yes you need slanted pistons to make it happen, but it works. Our final configuration is the flat 6, or more accurately a boxer six. Not every flat engine is a boxer engine but all relevant modern mass produced flat six engines, like those made by Porsche or Subaru, are boxer sixes. In order to be a boxer, a flat engine must have the pistons moving in and out in unison. In order for the boxer thing to happen each piston has its own crank pin and the crankshaft looks like this. A flat engine can't be a boxer engine if the pistons share a crank pin. An example of a flat engine that isn't a boxer is the Flat 12 in the Ferrari Testarossa. Anyhow, you're often going to hear how the boxer six engine is perfectly balanced, and it is, although there is a bit of a catch. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Andrew Ruud Brian Alvarez Holset90 D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #enginebalance #enginebootcamp

Piston ring filer: https://amzn.to/3v3tz7J AEM ECU: http://bit.ly/D4Ainfinity5​ AEM water-meth: https://bit.ly/2zrOkSp?utm_source=D4A...​ AEM boost controllers: http://bit.ly/D4AtruboostX​ AEM wideband AFR gauge: http://bit.ly/D4Axserieswb​ As you know the piston rings play an absolutely key part in your engine they hold combustion pressures in the combustion chamber. In other words they ensure that combustion pushes the piston downward instead of going past the piston. But the very construction of a piston ring is a compromise. Because we can't use rubber bands for piston rings, all piston rings must have a slit or gap in them so that they can be installed and removed from pistons. Of course this gap shouldn't be too large, because then it will let combustion pressures escape through the gap and reduce powder and efficiency. But being too small is an even worse scenario when it comes to piston ring gaps. Other than holding combustion pressure in, piston rings have another key task, and that's to transfer heat from the piston to the cylinder, and then the cylinder transfers heat away to the coolant passing around it. As you know metal, like most things, expands under heat. This means that piston rings also expand under heat. If the ring gap is too small the ring will expand within the limited space of the cylinder, and the rings will eventually run into each other. When this happens the ring will have nowhere left to go and as more heat is introduced the pressure exerted by the ring on the cylinder will increase. This means that more friction will occur between the ring and the cylinder and this will produce even more heat. Eventually the amount of heat will become too high for the ring to transfer it away to the cylinder and coolant. Eventually the piston too will start overheating and by doing so it will start loosing it's structural integrity. This combined to added resistance between the ring and piston means that catastrophic failure is just a matter of time. The most common scenario is broken ring lands and loss of compression together with possible cylinder damage. In any case the engine needs to come out for inspection and likely a rebuild. So what this tell you? Well it tells you that more heat means more ring expansion. If we're rebuilding our engine in it's stock form without significant modifications we don't need to touch the ring gap. But if we modify our engine to introduce more heat into the combustion chamber we need to increase the ring gap to account for this added expansion. Increasing the compression ratio of your engine increases the heat in the combustion chamber because the air and fuel mixture are compressed to a greater extent. The more you compress a gas the closer it's molecules come to each other, the closer they are the more they will contact each other and thus generate friction and heat. We can also add additional heat by significantly increasing the redline of our engine and spending prolonged periods of time at that redline. More engine revolutions means more friction between the rings and the cylinder over the same period of time and thus more heat. But by far the greatest addition of heat into the engine is adding turbocharging or supercharging to a previously naturally aspirated engine or significantly increasing the boost levels in an already turbocharged or supercharged engine. Forced induction stuffs far more air molecules into the same space compared to natural aspiration, which means that it significantly increases the number of molecules in that same space which means that it increases the heat during compression and combustion and thus increases the amount of heat to which the piston rings will be exposed. To account for this, adding forced induction or significantly increasing boost often calls for an adjustment of the piston ring gap. In this video you will find a detailed piston ring gap chart or piston ring gap calculator if you will as well as detailed and simple instructions on how to use a readily available piston ring filing tool. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Andrew Ruud Brian Alvarez Holset90 D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #boostschool

All MRP clutch kits: https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product-category/clutch-kits/ MRP Twin plates: https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product-category/twinplate-clutch-kits/ My kit in this video: https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/4agze-16v-20v-heavy-duty-clutch/ Organic clutches are the OEM standard. As the name suggests their base is of organic origin, usually a phenolic resin or compounded rubber together with cellulose as an organic friction material. When they're well made organic clutches offer many advantages, which explains why they have been the OEM clutch disk material of choice for many decades. They offer very smooth and gradual engagement which means they are easy to operate and comfortable for daily use and stop and go traffic. They generate adequate friction over a a broad range of temperatures and have a minimal or no break in period. So let's step things up by borrowing something from bulletproof vests and integrating it into our clutch. Kevlar! When in tensions, Kevlar is 5 times stronger than most steel alloys. This is how it stops bullets. But it can also make your clutch extremely durable and dramatically increase its lifespan. Kevlar clutch discs can withstand higher temps than most organics and will take a lot of hard usage, for example hard driving on the race track, but they absolutely hate stop and go traffic. Kevlar has good burst strength and great wear resistance if used correctly but it also has a low coefficient of friction, which means it doesn't actually grab very hard. The upside to this is that it usually enables very smooth engagement, just like an organic, the downside is that it needs a very strong pressure plate with lots of clamping force to grab the flywheel without slipping. The final downside of Kevlar discs is that they must be carefully broken in before they can be used hard. Depending on the disc the break in period can be relatively long and ranges from 100 to 500 miles. A metal clutch disc is also often called a ceramic clutch. Ironically, ceramic clutches actually contain very little ceramic in them, many don't have any ceramic in them at all. Instead the base material is usually copper or bronze or a mixture of both and then iron, steel, silicon, graphite, ceramic or any mix thereof added into in to further increase friction. Copper and many other metals are excellent heat conductors which means that all metal clutch discs can tolerate extreme heats. It takes some very very extreme abuse to be able to fry a sintered metal clutch, which means you can let loose on the track with them. Unlike Kevlar, metal discs have a very high coefficient of friction, which means they can hold massive power even without a very strong pressure plate, but the downside is that you can forget smooth engagement. High friction means that sintered metal clutch discs grab strongly and abruptly, often with chattering and shuddering sounds and sensations accompanying engagement and disengagement. But what if even a ceramic clutch isn't enough for you? Let's say you need to transfer something like 1000 hp and god knows how much torque onto your transmission. In that case you need sintered Iron! The easiest way to understand sintered iron clutch discs is to think of them as ceramic clutches on steroids. They are extremely abrasive which means they will destroy most conventional freewheels. They can hold incredible amounts of power without slipping but their engagement is so sudden they're like a switch. On and off. This means it's next to impossible to use them on the street. On the upside they can take incredible amounts of abuse and it's nearly impossible to fry a sintered iron clutch. When it comes to twin plate and multi plate clutch kits, they can do something single plate clutches can't and that is to increase the total surface area of the clutch disc. Multi plate clutch kits can do this by using more than one disc. By increasing the surface area multi plate clutches can retain a relatively low clamping force and abrasiveness, which means they can hold more power and torque while retaining OEM like driveability. Another important distinction is sprung and unsprung clutches and clutches with and without a marcel spring. In general a sprung clutch with a marcel will be tolerable for street driving regardless of material, while a fully rigid clutch will be much better suited for racing only applications. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Andrew Ruud Brian Alvarez Holset90 D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch​ Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a​ #d4a​ #clutch #enginebootcamp 00:00 Intro 00:47 The Basics 04:17 The Materials 14:55 Multi plate 19:02 Sprung vs Unsprung

0-150MM 0.01mm/0.0004 Inch Outside Micrometer set https://ban.ggood.vip/WVod 50mm-160mm 0.01mm Digital Dial Bore Gauge Engine Cylinder Measure Gauge Measuring Tool Kit http://bit.ly/36jYWQI Today we're going to do an easy, step by step DIY guide that's going to show you how to inspect and measure your cylinder bores to see if they are out of round, or maybe tapered and to know for certain if they need reboring or not. We're also going to be working on our pistons to see how much to rebore an engine depending on piston size. Now the first thing we'll be doing before measuring stuff is to clean and visually inspect our bores. During our visual inspection we're looking for two things: an absence of damage in the form of deep scratches and scoring and a presence of a cross-hatch hone pattern on our bores. If there's an absence of damage and a presence of honing marks your engine has passed visual inspection. If there's an obvious presence of damage your bores have failed visual inspection and they will need boring. Cylinder 1 of our block doesn't have serious rust and there's even some honing marks present. However there is increased wear on the thrust axis of the bore. Now increased wear on the thrust axis is normal and expected. During engine operation combustion forces act on the piston crown and because of the piston's position in relation to the conrod and crankshaft this part of the bore receives most of the load and therefore the most wear. This is also why pistons have more skirt material along their thrust axis. More skirt along the thrust axis helps better support the piston in the bore and helps distribute loads. So cylinder 1 has an absence of serious damage and even some presence of honing marks which means that it passes visual inspection. But it does raise some concerns over increased wear. In order to measure bores we're going to need two different measuring devices. A dial bore gauge and an outside micrometer. To measure bores we need to set our micrometer and bore gauge to the proper dimensions. The first thing we'll do is to zero our micrometer. To do this we need to set it in a vice. It's a good idea to use a soft jaw vice and/or some wood, and definitely don't tighten too hard as it's easy to distort the shape of the micrometer.If you distort a micrometer it's no longer usable for taking measurements. Next we're going to consult our factory service manual or any other suitable source to see what kind of bore dimensions we should be seeing. This is a Toyota 4AGE engine block and the factory service manual tells us that our STD bore dimensions are between 81 and 81.3 mm. So we'll set our micrometer to 81mm exactly and lock it again. Now we're going to zero our dial bore gauge to 81mm. This is probably the trickiest part of this whole process and it requires a bit of patience sometimes. We're going to assemble our dial bore gauge by using an attachment of suitable length, and then we're going to insert the measuring end of the bore gauge into the micrometer. We will gently and slowly move the bore gauge inside the micrometer as we watch the needle. Once you've zeroed the bore gauge we can proceed to the measuring. And we will be measuring at six different spots to get an accurate assessment of the condition of the bore. We will be measuring at the top, middle and bottom of both the thrust and the non-thrust axis of the bore. We're looking for two things – and out of round condition and a tapered condition of the bores. An out of round condition will reveal itself as a difference between dimensions of the thrust and non-thrust axis, and a tapered condition will be be present if there's a difference between dimensions at different bore depths. Our factory service manual tells us that the maximum allowable bore diameter is 81.23 How much should we rebore an engine? To learn that we need to measure our oversized pistons. When you rebore an engine, you need to get oversized pistons. To maintain a proper piston to wall clearance an increased bore dimater also calls for an increased piston diameter. If we check our factory service manual we'll see that the piston is measured on the thrust side 42mm from the skirt bottom, which turns out to be just a few mm away from the oil ring groove. Our factory service manual gives us a formula for determining the amount to rebore. Its' the piston diameter + piston to wall clearance – allowance for honing. In our case that's 81.38 + 0.13 (since these are supercharged 4AGZE pistons we're using) - 0.02 mm. The result is: 81.49, which is the new bore size that your engine would need to be bored out to. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Andrew Ruud Brian Alvarez Holset90 D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch​ Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a​ #d4a​ #enginebootcamp

Secondary engine balance step by step explanation: https://youtu.be/82rxavW0A3c It's time for another video on engine balance and in this one we're doing a detailed comparison of the inline six with different versions of the V6 engine. The odd firing v6, the 90 degree v6 and the 60 degree v6. To see why the inline six is well balanced we're going to start by figuring out it's firing interval. We do this with a very simple formula. 720 divided by 6. The result is 120, this tells us that the inline six has an even firing interval of 120 degrees. If we deduct 120 from 180 (one stroke) we get -60, which tells us that there's 60 degrees of power stroke overlap in an inline six engine. The inline six has an even number of cylinders which means every pistons is canceled out by another piston, so perfect primary balance. It also has no rocking moment front to back like inline three and inline five cylinders. What about secondary balance. In an inline six cylinder engine the pistons move in pairs, and no two pairs are ever in the same part of the stroke. Which means that the forces associated with different piston speeds at different parts of the stroke cancel each other out. But there's a problem with the inline six. It's very long making it very difficult to package under the hood. So what do you do? Of course you split the inline six in two and separate the pairs of three cylinders into two banks and then you angle the banks in a V shape and voila the V6 is born. But because we separated the cylinders into two banks a question arises – what's the best angle between the two banks of the V? To figure that out we need to again employ our useful little formula for figuring out the firing interval, and because we again have six cylinders, we have the same formula and the same result. 120 degrees. The firing interval is also the perfect angle between the banks for a V-shaped engine. But there's a problem here. 120 degrees V6 engines are useless. Instead of being compact they are bulky! The whole reason a V6 was conceived is to make it more compact but you neuter all this compactness with 120 degrees between cylinder banks. This is why 120 degree V6 engines don't really exist in mass production, and can only be found in LeMans or F1. Although back in 2020 Aston Martin showed pics of it's new TM01 V6 engine, and although I couldn't find verifiable info from the photos it seems like it has a pretty wide angle between the banks, although it doesn't seem to be quite as a wide as a 120? Ok so a 120 degree V6 is impractical. What do we do then? Of course we reduce the angle between the banks. How about 90 degrees like in a V8? You could even make it on the same production line as a v8, just chop off a bit of block and you got a v6? Well, that's exactly what buick did in 1961 for the very first generation of their Fireball V6. They derived it from their 215 cu in (3.5 L) V8 so it had the same 90 degree bank angle the only difference was the crankshaft. It Had shared crankpins just like a v8, but because it had only three, they were 120 degrees apart instead of 90 like in the v8. The result? A very rough engine with an odd firing interval. So why did it have an odd firing interval? Because it's bank angle is different from the natural even firing interval of the v6 and the crank pin separation angle the engine must adopt an odd firing interval. And they were able to do create an even firing v6 while still keeping the 90 degree? How you ask? Well, let's think about it, what other part of the engine can you use to make up for the „incorrect“ bank angle? The crank pin of course. Split the pin in half and offset the pins from each other. This is called a splay angle, and your splay angle is going to equal whatever your bank angle is missing. But wait! Can we make a 60 degree V6 now? Sure you can. Just adapt the splay angle. 60 degree banks means you need 60 more to „fake“ 120, so you just make a 60 degree splay angle crankshaft. Done! But doesn't this small cross section make the crankshaft weak? Not necessarily, you can do what the Alfa Romeo Busso V6 did, and put flying arms between the offset pins. What about primary and secondary balance of a V6 engine? Well a V6 is two inline threes in opposing banks and as such it has the same engine balance DNA, an imperfect primary and a perfect secondary engine balance. What about block rigidity and torsion or twisting forces of the crank? Well the v6 should be more rigid because it's more compact but we have plenty of modern proof (2jz, barra, s54, rb26, etc.) that with the right engineering block flexing or crank twisting really isn't an issue on inline six engines. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Andrew Ruud Brian Alvarez Holset90 D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #enginebalance #enginebootcamp

AEM ECU: http://bit.ly/D4Ainfinity5​ AEM water-meth: https://bit.ly/2zrOkSp?utm_source=D4A...​ AEM boost controllers: http://bit.ly/D4AtruboostX​ AEM wideband AFR gauge: http://bit.ly/D4Axserieswb​ AEM digital racing dash display: http://bit.ly/D4Acddash​ What is up engine heads, welcome to another episode of boost school. The forced induction A while ago we made a boost school episode covering the history of the turbo! But as you know turbos aren’t the only way of force feeding extra air into your engine. But today we’ll be giving the historical treatment to the king of whine - the Supercharger! The beginnings of the supercharger date all the way back to 1860, when brothers Philander and Francis Marion Roots patented the "rotary air blower". In 1878, just two years after the world saw the first functional four stroke engine, Scottish engineer Dugald Clerk unveiled the very first working two stroke engine, and it had a “supercharger”. Some credit Gottlieb Daimler as being the first to install a and experiment with a roots type air blower on a four stroke engine in 1900. But Gottlieb's eldest son, Paul Daimler was instrumental in creating the first series production supercharged cars. They were unveiled at the 1921 Berlin Automobile Exhibition as the Mercedes 6/20 hp and the Mercedes 10/35 hp. At this time all other supercharged cars were racing cars: Fiat 805-405, Miller 122, Alfa Romeo P2, Sunbeam, Delage 2LCV, and the 1926 Bugatti Type 35C. The idea for a screw type compressor or “supercharger” comes from one Heinrich Krigar. He realized that new blast furnace designs needed more air so he improved the original roots design. 50 years later, a Swedish steam turbine manufacturer called Ljungstroms Angturbin AB appointed a new Chief Engineer, Alf Lysholm. Lysholm developed the profile of the screw compressor and tested various configurations and rotor lobe combinations. He also patented the method for machining the rotors in 1935. Credit for the centrifugal supercharger goes to Louis Renault. As in 1902 he applied for a patent which consisted of a centrifugal fan placed in front of the intake manifold of the engine with the goal of increasing the induction pressure of the gas charge. A few years later, Lee Chadwick in America put this idea into practice and further refined the centrifugal supercharger design by creating a three stage centrifugal supercharger. The supercharger was installed on racing cars manufactured by his company Chadwick Engineering Works. Chadwick cars were the first supercharged racing cars in America and some of the first cars in the world to go over 100 mph. In 1908 a supercharged Chadwick, the “Great Chadwick 6-cylinder” won the Great Despair Hillclimb, and in the same year Chadwicks competed in the Vanderbilt Cup and the American Great Prize. By the mid 30s the benefits of superchargers were more than obvious and everyone wanted the extra power provided by them. A man by the name Robert Paxton McCulloch decided to capitalize on this and so he started McCulloch Engineering Company and began manufacturing superchargers as the first large American commercial supercharger manufacturer. Then came World War II in 1939 and superchargers made a name for themselves. Perhaps the most iconic airplane from this time is the Iconic Spitfire with it’s equally iconic supercharged Rolls Royce Merlin engine. It was to ww2 aircraft what the blower Bentley was to cars. After the war, supercharged cars dominated the newly established Formula 1. Perhaps the most memorable and most successful car from the early days of Formula 1 was the Alfa Romeo 158/159. It featured a 1.5 liter straight 8 supercharged engine. In the field of mass produced cars the addition of a supercharger spawned some truly breath taking machines. From the small and nimble to the large and luxurious. The supercharger has been a staple of top tier beasts in the American market for as long as anyone can remember and it’s the magical ingredient in the hellish formula the Dodge Demon. A quarter mile destroyer, equipped with a 2.7 liter supercharger which makes the demon the hardest launching production car and the only production car ever capable of performing a wheelie. Although in terms of sheer quantity supercharger are, due their lower efficiency, loosing the battle to turbos. But superchargers definitely still have their place and enjoy the favor of companies like Jaguar, Volvo or Range rover which add them to their engines to spice up their flagship models What about the future? Well in 2017 Audi gave us a bit of a preview when they strappad the world’s first production electric supercharger to their V8 turbo diesel engine in their SQ7 TDI. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Andrew Ruud Brian Alvarez Holset90 D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #boostschool

AEM EV control VCU200: http://bit.ly/D4A-vcu200 AEM EV control VCU300: http://bit.ly/D4A-vcu300 AEM EV power distribution PDU-8: http://bit.ly/D4A-pdu8 CD Carbon Dashes EV: http://bit.ly/D4A-evdashes In this video we're doing something we haven't done on the d4a channel before, and that is to talk about battery electric vehicles, and we're starting this topic BIG, with a giant 30+ minute video that goes deep into the differences between ICE (internal combustion engine) cars and EV (Electric Vehicles) aka BEV (Battery electric vehicles). We're going to talk about performance, torque, weight, transmissions, maintenance, running costs as well as the future aspects for car enthusiasts. We're even saying a few words about the prejudice that seems to exist in the two opposed camps behind EVs and ICE cars. But before we can get EVs and ICE vehicles clashing head to head we first must get a bit more familiar with EVs. Interestingly enough, to do that we can rely on the familiar concepts behind components in ICE vehicles, namely the battery and the starter motor, which is an electric motor we'll be using to better understand the electric motor driving EVs. If we contrast the starter motor to the EV motor we can see that the EV motor is a three phase induction motor (or permanent magnet or IPM synRM motor in newer Tesla cars, or the Porsche Taycan, or even some entry-level EVs) which needs three phase alternating current AC to run. In contrast to this the starter motor is a DC motor with brushes and commutators that must make direct physical contact to operate. The AC motor in EVs doesn't need any direct physical contact. It relies on a rotating magnetic field generated by three phase AC in the motor's stator to drive the rotor. This means no brushes or commutators and it also means the AC motor is a lot more rugged, reliable, maintenance free and has a longer life expectancy compared to DC motors. But most importantly for the sake of our comparison AC motors have rotation in their core. The engine on the other hand needs to convert reciprocation into rotation. This is the arduous task of the connecting rods and crankshaft and where a lot of the weight, complexity, vibration and losses of the ICE come from. That being said, modern engine really do vibrate very little and configurations like the inline 6 or the v12 are essentially vibration free. A common misconception that occurs here is that ICE is heavier when compared to EVs. Yes, an ICE electric motor by itself weighs less than a fully assembled engine, but to run the engine only needs fuel, fuel tank and transmission (100-250kg), compared to this an electric motor need batteries (500kg on the Tesla model S for example). On top of this batteries make DC power which isn't suitable of an AC motor, so EVs also need an inverter to convert DC into AC and to vary the speed of motor. This is why on average EVs are as a whole heavier than ICE vehicles. For example, the 2018 and newer BMW M5 weighs 1990 kg compared to the 2200 kg of the Tesla model S. Another interesting aspect that must be explored are the torque curves. The reason why electric cars can operate with just 1 gear in their transmission. The Tesla model S P100D for example has a max motor RPM of 18.000 rpm and makes usable torque for most of that rpm range. The BMW M5 does make 750 Nm of torque starting from only 1800 rpm, but it redlines at 7000 rpm which is why it needs multiple gears. With just 1 gear it would be redlining at 60mph. But the 1 gear thing is a compromise, you must choose between acceleration and top speed. This explains why Tesla cars are so fast from 0 - 100mph, but are outrun by equivalent ICE cars from 100 to 150 mph. Tesla chose to favor acceleration with their gear ratio. This is also why the Porsche Taycan is currently the only EV with a two speed transmission. To avoid the compromise between top speed and acceleration it has a second gear into which it automatically shifts at 60mph. The reason why it outruns the Tesla even if it has less power and is a bit heavier. What about running costs? Surely owning EVs is cheaper as there is less maintenance? Well EVs still have brakes, coolant pumps, transmission oil pumps, radiators and much more. They are definitely not maintenance free. The running costs vary across the globe and depend on electricity prices as well as the local taxation, registration and EV incentive policies in the country. So are battery electric vehicles the future? Your guess is as good as mine. Are they amazing? Definitely. Do they have ways to go? Yes, but that's a good thing. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Andrew Ruud Brian Alvarez Holset90 D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #enginebootcamp 00:00 A Bet 02:43 AC vs DC 09:01 Engine vs Motor 14:40 Gears and Torque 22:53 Costs 26:24 Future and enthusiasm

In this episode of Project Underdog we are talking about torque plates. What they are, why you might want one and how to make the most of them. We also take a look at my DIY torque plate made from a junk cylinder head that I believe is not only more cost effective but also better than a traditional torque plate. Torque plates come into play when you need to bore and hone your cylinder block. When you want to rebuild your engine and install oversized pistons you need to overbore your block. In most cases a block is bored as a bare block, with nothing attached to it, and this leads to our issue. Ideally you would want to bore and hone the block with the cylinder head attached to it. Why? Because when you install and torque down a cylinder head your bores get distorted. They get distorted because they are hollow cylindrical shapes that get exposed to very significant clamping and other forces generated when you torque down the head. You want to bore the block in this distorted shape because this is the shape in which it will be running. This is why boring the block in the distorted shape results in better ring seal and thus better compression, more power and possibly even less oil consumption due to reduced blow-by. Of course boring and honing the block with the head attached is impossible because the boring and honing machine would no longer have access to the bore. This is where a torque plate comes in. A torque plate is essentially a thick piece of metal, usually aluminum, that mimics your cylinder head. It has large holes that match the size and spacing of your bores and it has holes that match your cylinder head bolt holes on your block. You bolt it down and torque it down just like you would an actual head and then you bore and hone your engine block. The result is that you're boring and honing in the distorted shape as is optimal. But torque plates are expensive and if the machine shop that's doing your build doesn't have the right torque plate for your engine your options are to either buy one or have one custom made. Both options are usually very pricey, the custom route usually more so. When facing this same scenario in my engine build I asked myself: "why not mimic a cylinder head with an actual cylinder head?" And in the end that's exactly what I ended up doing. I took my old junk 4AGE cylinder head which head irreparable damage (totally busted cam journals) and turned it into a torque plate. I took it to a machine shop and asked the shop to drill holes straight through the head. The center of the hole is the center of the spark plug hole, because that's also the center of the combustion chamber and thus the bore. I asked them to drill holes with 83.5 mm of diameter. I went larger than my 81.5 mm of final bore diameter to leave some room for error in case the center of the spark plug hole isn't the perfect center of the bore. The end result is what you can see in the video. It's cheaper because old junk heads are usually 50-100$. Chances are you or a fellow enthusiast probably has some laying around that are just begging to be turned into torque plates so you might get one free too. The only other cost is the cost of machining which will of course vary depending on where you live and what kind of head you bore through. But it likely won't be over 150$ for an inline four which means you're getting a torque plate at a fraction of the price of a ready made one. The other benefit is that this torque plate is better because it not only uses the same alloy as the actual head it also better mimics the shape of a cylinder head because it used to be an actual cylinder head. This means that the distortion created should be even more accurate than that of a conventional torque plate. A few other important notes for using torque plates in general. Always use them together with head gaskets of the same brand and kind that you will be using in your final assembly and together with the head bolts or head studs you will actually be using. This is because the head gaskets and bolts are an important factor in the overall distortion generated. MLS head gaskets can be reused as long as you don't heat cycle them. Also bore and hone with main caps or any main cap girdles installed as well. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Andrew Ruud Brian Alvarez Holset90 D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #projectunderdog #enginebootcamp

Get the engine model: http://bit.ly/2JqyTPm Other models: http://bit.ly/3fnkwHk 10% off code: driving I have a pretty nasty cold and my voice is gone so no narration in this video, sorry. But I still think we can make some educational and entertaining content without the use of my accent infused voice. We'll start of with the review of this teching dm13-1 all metal engine model kit. I have to say that I'm extremely impressed with the visual impact of this thing. It really looks and feels a lot like a real engine in miniature form. All the individual pieces are really well made and there's zero cheapness. Even the box and the instructions are almost free of "engrish" and are very usable. The engine is very heavy and the engine block and cylinder head feel extremely solid and have a very impressive weight to them. This thing is a definitive conversation starter. I think it would absolutely shine on the desk of an executive of a business that works with cars and/or engines. It really looks the part. Even more so when you run it and you can observe all the moving parts. As an educational tool it's absolutely incredible. There's no need for vague or abstract explanations and weird hand gestures, this thing is the ultimate teaching aid. Now for the things I didn't like. The allen keys are too short and hard to use and reduce the satisfaction a bit. A few additional tools would be nice in the kit. I think the fact that you can't install spark plugs like on a real engine is a bit unrealistic. The head bolts are also unrealistic and should be longer. QUIZ ANSWERS Q1 – fully counterweighted flat plane inline four crank – 2 points Q2 – I beam – 2 points Q3 – dished pistons lower the compression ratio - 2 points Q4 – piston pins that are held in by circlips are fully floating, as opposed to pressed in piston pins that don't need circlips and are held in by the press fit – 3 points Q5 – They are missing piston rings – 1 point Q6 – The main saddles (main bearings go here) on a real engine almost never have a reduced surface area. A reduced surface area reduces friction and you can often see this on the camshaft bearing area, but because the main bearings must bear much greater loads so they never have a reduced surface area. On top of this the main saddles almost always have oil delivery holes in them too – 3 points Q7 – There's no thrust washers – 3 points Q8 – through the top – 1 point Q9 – the valve retainer, bucket and shim are all contained in one part. This means that adjusting valve lash would be very impractical. Increased wear and noise would also likely be present – 3 points Q10 – A – 1 point Q11 – DOHC – Dual Over Head Cam – 1 point Q12 – No variable valve lift no variable valve timing (cam phasing) – 3 points Q13 – A Head Gasket – 2 points Q14 – They're way to small and short – 2 points Q15 – oil pump – 2 points Q16 – Rear main seal (housing) – 2 points Q17 – Flywheel – 1 point Q18 – Starter, or in the case of this engine the electric motor – 2 points Q19 – Alternator or generator - 1 point Q20 – Water pump – 2 points Q21 – It's the belt tensioner pulley, therefore it provides tension to the belt – 2 points Q22 – It provides tension to the chain – 2 points Q23 – Single roller – 2 points Q24 – Four cylinder car engines almost never have 8 exhaust headers. The two ports from each exhaust valve merge into a single port to which a header is connected – 3 points Q25 – They're the same in both shape, size and length. In reality the different fluid dynamics of the intake and the exhaust ports dictate a different shape and size – 3 points Q26 – the timing of the exhaust valves is off, they should open as the piston moves up, to let exhaust gasses be pushed out by the piston – 3 points SCORE CHART: 5 points or less - Tesla Fanboy - You think ICE is frozen water don't you? 6 - 15 pts - Greta - Know thy enemy! 16 - 20 pts - Dad - Good job dad! 21 - 25 pts - Autozone employee - Year make and model please.. 26 - 30 pts - Ricer - No, fast and furious isn't a great source for learning about cars 31 - 35 pts - Connoisseur - No, your girlfriend isn't impressed with your gulf racing livery socks 36 - 45 pts - Real Petrolhead - One of us! One of us! One of us! 46 - 47 pts - Engine Jedi - The force is strong in you. Bless you. 48 pts - Petrolheads Anonymous - You have a problem, but I love you. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Andrew Ruud Brian Alvarez Holset90 D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #enginebootcamp

Weldspeed GR Yaris Intake Manifold: https://www.weldspeed.com.au/product-page/gr-yaris-intake-manifold In today's video we're doing an in-depth overview of the G16E-GTS engine from the new Yaris GR. If you research the new Yaris GR you will see that the info on the new engine is rather scarce, but today I aim to fix that and make possibly the most comprehensive video currently available on the G16E-GTS engine. Reverse engineered from WRC and the first recent truly Toyota sports car, the Yaris GR is a big deal! But before we start we need to get the thumbnail out of the way. As you can see the thumbnail has the words "world's most powerful inline 3 engine" on it. And on this day, the 20th of December 2020, this is the YARIS GR G16E-GTS is the most powerful production inline three cylinder engine. It beat the previous record holder the, 231 hp 1.5 liter inline three from the BMW i8. Before you jump the gun and say that the engine in the Koengisegg Gemera (2.0 liter twin turbo inline three with 600 hp) is the most powerful, I need to you remind you that this engine has not entered production, it's still just a prototype. But even when it does the Gemera costs millions and will only be made in 300 examples, so calling it "production" might be a stretch. Also with 167 hp/liter the YARIS GR G16E-GTS engine is Toyota's new highest hp/liter or highest specific output engine. The record was previously held since 2004 by an MPV. The Caldina GT-Four with the 2.0 liter inline four turbo 3SGTE engine with 256 hp. Now, let's see where the 268 hp of the Yaris GR engine comes from, and to find out we will start with the engine block the core of the engine. The engine block of the G16E-GTS is an open deck cast aluminum engine block with cast iron sleeves. The cast iron sleeves are fused into the block by having the block cast around them. Again, as with many modern engines and all engines in Toyota's new Dynamic Force Architecture the the crankshaft is offset from the cylinder center line. The result is a more direct transfer of force through the major thrust axis of the piston and therefore less friction between the piston rings and the cylinder which of course helps both efficiency and power. The pistons of the G16E-GTS are aluminum t-shaped with thin inner walls. Unfortunately I couldn't find any definitive info on whether they are cast or forged. But I'm guessing that they're most likely cast hyperuetectic pistons for minimum clearance and minimum cold start blowby. This is a EURO 6 engine, and passing EURO six emissions requirements for this vehicle class with forged pistons is very difficult. Another very interesting feature inside the engine block is the piston oil squirters or oil nozzles. And the GR yaris has 9 of them. Yes, that's three squirters per piston. You can sometimes read or hear people say, ah piston squirters are bad for your engine, they reduce your oil pressure, you should remove them, all the drag racing guys delete the piston oil squirters. And although many people have graduated past this sort of thinking, you can still occasionally hear it, and it's usually said for engines with 1 piston oil squirter per piston. The G16E-GTS is a turbocharged engine with a 10.5:1 compression ratio. This a compression ratio that a decade or so ago was considered relatively high for a naturally aspirated engine. And this compression ratio reveals why the underside of this engine block looks like a garden irrigation system. To prevent knock and have good ignition advance with an engine that has a turbo and a 10.5 compression ratio you need to keep the pistons as cool as possible and a great way to do that is by spraying a tsunami of engine oil to their underside. The G16E-GTS valvetrain dynamics work together with the d-4st fuel injection system which comprises of both port and direct injection. At low and mid engine loads both port and direct injection is used to maximize homogenization and reduce emissions and fuel consumption. At high loads the engine relies only on direct injection for maximum injection accuracy and knock prevention. I have to say that I like this system because it gives you the benefits of both direct and port injection. This means the accuracy of direct injection but without the carbon buildup. The downside is of course this complex system means potentially increased maintenance and servicing costs. Another interesting feature of the Toyota Yaris GR engine is the engine mounts, it has a total of three. But the right hand one is hydraulic to ensure none of those inline three vibrations and noises get into the cabin. Thanks to https://toyota-club.net/ for hosting some very useful info on this engine! A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Caldwell Pepe Brian Durning Andrew Ruud Brian Alvarez Holset90 A big thank you to Thomas Gires for the idea for this vid! #d4a #yarisgr #toyota

The engine block that you see has a stroke of 77mm, which means that the piston covers 77mm of travel during the full length of it's up and down motion. By this logic, rotating the crankshaft 90 degrees from top dead center should set the piston at half the stroke, in our example the piston should cover exactly 38.5 mm. Yet, as you can clearly is here it doesn't'. During the first 90 degrees of the crankshafts travel the piston covers more than half the stroke. So why is this happening? It's happening because the piston is connected to the crankshaft by a connecting rod and the connecting rod doesn't just go up and down in a simple reciprocating motion. Instead the connecting rod steps out from a linear path of travel both left and right. What is primary engine balance? The source of primary balance or imbalance is simply the mass of the reciprocating parts of your enigine, which means that your pistons are the greatest potential source of a primary engine imbalance. An engine with an odd number of pistons can have a primary imbalance if the reciprocating mass of the odd piston isn't properly canceled out by the other pistons. We're starting with one that has the least number of cylinders the inline three engine. When it comes to inline three engines most of them have their crank throws 120 degrees angled away from each other. Such an angle distributes the crank throws evenly across the crankshaft which then enables an even distribution of cylinder firings. The inline three engine has good primary balance due to the even spacing of it's crank throws. If you look at the crank from the front this becomes even more apparent. What about the secondary balance? Wel l that's actually pretty good too, because the three pistons are always in different parts of the upper and lower half of the cranks rotation and no two pistons move together. This sort of disperses the negative effects of the unequal piston speeds in the different halves of the cranks rotation. But if your gut feeling is telling you there has to be a problem with an odd number of cylinders, you were right. And the issue is discovered by drawing a line across the middle of the inline three cylinder. Notice anything weird? The force on this side is obviously unequal to the force on this side. the engine's center of gravity is at the middle of cylinder two and the unequal forces at different sides of the center of gravity mean that the engine rocks back and forth or end to end. So how do we fix the unbalance? Well the solution to fixing an unbalance in any kind of reciprocating piston engine can come in the form of a balancing shaft. In the case of the inline three we need a single balance shaft with weights which moves in the direction opposite to the piston travel to balance out the the end to end rocking of the inline three. But this doesn't mean that all inline three engines have a balancing shaft. A balancing shaft adds cost, weight and friction which is why most manufacturers will try to avoid it whenever possible. Ford's 1.0 liter three cylinder ecoboost engine is an example of a pretty smooth inline three cylinder that has no balancing shaft. Instead the engine uses an unbalanced flywheel and crank pulley and highly engineered engine mounts to cancel out most of the front to back rocking. Now let's add one more cylinder to the mix and talk about the inline four cylinder engine. The inline four also has perfect primary balance as you can see each upward motion of a piston is canceled out by the downward motion of another piston. When two go up, two pistons go down. As you can see when two piston are at the top two pistons are at the bottom this means that the secondary balance forces associated with unequal speeds at the top and bottom part of the cranks rotation aren't just present in the inline four they are in fact augmented by the fact that the pistons move in pairs. The easiest way to understand the balance associated with the inline 5 engine is to think of it as the inline three's big brother. They share the same balance genetics, with the inline 5 being the larger more powerful version. What about he inline six? Well, it's an inline three standing in front of a mirror. It's that simple. Unlike any of our previous configurations the inline six has a perfect primary and secondary balance. We have an even number of pistons and no two pistons occupy the same position of the stroke at one time. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Pepe Brian Durning Andrew Ruud D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a 00:00 Secondary balance 03:00 Primary balance 04:19 Inline 3 10:08 Inline 4 13:49 Inline 5 16:26 Inline 6 #d4a #enginebootcamp #enginebalance

So today we're porting the F out of our 4AFE cylinder head. But the letter F in the title of this video doesn't mean what you think it does. It's not the naughty F word. It's the F in the 4AFE and today we'll try to get rid of the F as much as possible. As you probably know F in Toyota's engine codes stands for an economy head, while G stands for a performance oriented cylinder head. As you can see I'm starting by working on the combustion chambers. This is the only area of the cylinder head that I will be slightly reshaping, while everything else will mostly be removal of casting flash and smoothing out rough surfaces and angles that are a consequence of the mass production process. When it comes to porting and polishing the greatest gains are achieved at this early stage of removing mass production imperfections, everything beyond that brings about dramatically reduced gains and mostly serves to push the power band into higher rpms. Some people think that the more your port, the more you enlarge the cross section of the ports, the more hp you gain. In reality, extreme port jobs only benefit all out racing and Motorsport engines that spend most of their life at full throttle and close to the redline. When it comes to all other applications too much porting does more harm than good. As you can see I'm porting with a carbide burr. If you're completely new to porting I recommend using only cartridge rolls like this. They remove material much slower than carbide burrs but are much safer and less likely to damage something on your head. Carbide burrs are great because they remove material very quickly but they can sometimes hop away or bounce off from the head and can damage your valve seats or other critical areas. This is why I prefer to use carbide burrs with smaller die grinders that are easier to control and hold in your hand. I use two die grinders so I can quickly switch between cartridge rolls and carbide burrs. I do the rough shaping with carbide burrs and finalize with cartridge rolls. When it comes to the combustion chamber I will be devoting most of the attention to the area around the intake valves and my goal here is to deshroud the intake valves to a reasonable degree to improve flow. I'm building a turbo engine and my goal is to make 300hp from 1.6 liters . In stock form the intake valves are set deep into the head and are shrouded by the combustion chamber, and although this does improve tumbling of the air fuel mixture and efficiency as well as air velocity and low rpm behavior, it doesn't help with making power at higher rpm. if you look at a typical pentroof combustion chamber in a performance cylinder head you will notice that the intake valves are almost never shrouded like this and are given as much room to breathe as possible. Now we're going to be focusing on the intake ports. As I said there will be no extreme porting here but I will definitely be gasket matching because as you can see there is some pretty massive mismatch between the intake gasket and port. This hurts performance and matching in a case like this can even help a bone stock engine, as this a relatively significant obstacle in the path of the incoming air. As before the carbide burr ports away the excess metal and the cartridge rolls smooth and blend the surfaces into one. The 4AFE head also has significant casting flash throughout the entire intake port and removing this is an absolute must for any porting job. Compared to the 4AGE heads the 4AFE heads have significantly more casting flash in almost all areas. The 4AFE intake ports are pretty long and narrow so you will need a long grinder attachment. I also like to wrap the attachment in a few layers of masking tape because the attachment itself, when rotating at high speed can do a lot of damage if it hits the gasket sealing area of the port. I'm working with an 80 grit roll here but I finish things off by hand in 150 grit to provide a more uniform finish throughout the port. Here's some before and after of the intake ports. Our next area of focus is going to be the intake valve bowls. Compared to the port, which is a low risk area the bowl is a high risk area. The seats on this head are good and I want to save them but can't use old valves to protect the seats obviously so maximum care and concentration is needed when working the bowl. One hit to the valve seat usually means that you must replace the seat and that is an added unnecessary cost as well as risk, because not all machine shops can properly execute a valve seat replacement. On top of this most aftermarket valve seats are inferior to OEM ones and I'm not sure OEM ones are still available for this head. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Pepe Brian Durning Andrew Ruud D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #projectunderdog #porting

AEM SS MAP sensors: https://bit.ly/d4a-map-sensors AEM SS Pressure (Gauge) sensors: https://bit.ly/d4a-pressure-sensors AEM boost controllers: http://bit.ly/D4AtruboostX AEM ECU: http://bit.ly/D4Ainfinity5 AEM wideband AFR gauge: http://bit.ly/D4Axserieswb Let's start with the basics. Air pressure or more specifically atmospheric air pressure. As we know, earth's atmosphere is filled with air. We are born and we die in this atmosphere, it's our natural environment, and this is why we don't really notice or feel the weight or the mass of air. But air most definitely has a weight and a mass. All that air, the entire atmosphere, weighs about 5 million billion tons! So how come we don't get crushed by it? We don’t get crushed because all that weight is distributed evenly over the entire surface of the Earth. The average pressure you feel on your body is about 14.7 psi or 1 bar. But because you can't escape this pressure, and unless you've been to outer space, you never actually spent even a moment of your time without this pressure, you don't really feel it as you can't reference how it would feel without this pressure. So what do you think, what's the place where you can feel the least amount of atmospheric pressure without leaving the earth? That's the top of Mount Everest of course, the highest point on earth. The highest point has the lowest pressure because it has the least amount of atmosphere above it, the least amount of air weight above it. The highest atmospheric pressure you can experience on earth if at sea level and the lowest is at the peak of mount Everest. But you can also experience very low atmospheric pressure if you contract a virus like Covid 19 and they put you into an isolation room. Many isolation rooms are actually negative pressure rooms. Inside a negative pressure room, the air pressure is artificially maintained at a pressure lower than outside the room, a pressure lower than atmospheric pressure. This is usually done with exhaust system that suck out the air of the room. Because the pressure inside the negative air pressure room is lower than outside it, the contaminated air doesn't come out of the room when you open the door. Instead, clean air from the outside comes into it because air, like all fluids, always flows from a higher pressure area towards a lower pressure area. Do you know what else works on the same principle as an isolation room inside a hospital? The cylinder inside your engine! When the piston moves down inside your cylinder it creates a vacuum, or an absence of pressure. The cylinder moves down the bore at extremely high speeds and as it moves down it rapidly creates this void, or empty space, that for an extremely brief moment, has no air it, and as such is at a lower pressure than atmospheric pressure. But a turbo or a supercharger is capable of generating significant additional air pressure, and the air pressure inside the intake manifold of a forced induction engine can be double or triple that of atmospheric air pressure. When you're looking at a boost gauge mounted inside a vehicle you're looking ONLY at the boost pressure generated by the turbo or supercharger. This means that a boost gauge isn't showing the actual pressure inside the intake manifold. It's showing the pressure inside the intake manifold - minus the atmospheric pressure. When you expose a boost gauge to atmospheric pressure it's going to show a value of zero. This is because a boost gauge and it's sensor are referenced to atmospheric pressure. The reason behind this is that you're only interested in what additional pressure your turbo or supercharger is generating, the pressure it ADDS on top of the atmospheric pressure, because that's what boost is, you're boosting your engine's power by adding more pressure than could be generated by natural aspiration i.e. the pressure of the atmosphere. But things are different from the perspective of your engine's ECU. The ECU is interested in ALL of the pressure, both from the atmosphere and the pressure added by forced induction. It's needs to know all the pressure because it's trying to match all of the air mass with the correct amount of fuel. So the MAP sensor that reads pressure inside the intake manifold and feeds data to the ECU is referenced to absolute zero pressure. If you were to expose this sensor to the atmosphere it would read around 14.7 psi at sea level. So boost pressure equals manifold absolute pressure - atmospheric pressure. and manifold absolute pressure is: boost pressure + atmospheric pressure. 00:00 Atmospheric pressure 05:00 NA, Forced induction and Elevation 07:56 Boost pressure vs MAP 10:34 Stainless steel vs brass 12:22 MAP vs MAF in tuned boosted engines A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Pepe Brian Durning D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #boostschool #underpressure

Carly Connected Car: https://www.mycarly.com/?ref=d4a&utm_source=AffiliateRoW&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_campaign=d4a Use 'Driving4answers' coupon code for a 10% off adapter purchase until the end of the year. Carly offers a free lite version of the app to go with their adapter. The lite version offers access to certain features and is a good way to test what Carly can do with your car. To unlock additional features, such as coding, you can upgrade to the yearly subscription, either for one specific brand or all car brands." Today we'll be exploring in detail the three different types of devices that measure the air coming into the engine and relay this important data to the ECU so that the ECU can inject the appropriate amount of fuel in order to obtain a desired air fuel ratio. So let's start things off with the oldest type of air flow measuring component the air flow meter. The vane air flow meter gets it's name because inside it you can find a moving vane, and the vane air flow meter measures incoming air by relying on the drag force generated by the air. The air pushes against the vane and opens it. The more air pushes against it the more the vane will open. The vane is connected to a variable resistor or a potentiometer. In essence the poentiometer allows voltage to "enter" it and exit only at the terminal that is proportional to the angle of the vane, telling the engine's ECU how much the vane is open based on which the ECU determines the amount of fuel to be injected. Now let's look at another relatively old method of measuring airflow, but one that doesn't noticeably restrict airflow. This one is known as the Karman Vortex Air Flow Meter. And it relies on the property of all fluids, air included of course, to generate vortices when they encounter an obstacle of a specific shape,usually a triangular rod, which is called a "vortex generator" in this case. The frequency or the number of the vortices within a certain time-frame is proportional to the intake air velocity. Compared to the vane air flow meter the karman vortex generator is much less common on cars. It can be found mostly on cars from the 90s, most notably the DSM trio, as well as some Lexus, BMW and a bunch of Mitsubishi vehicles among others. We have two main types of mass air flow sensors, the hot wire type and the hot film maf sensor. A mass air flow sensor or MAF has a wire that sits in the incoming air stream. Because the mass air flow sensor directly measures air mass it also responds it won't get confused by an increase in air density due to altitute changes or changes in temperature. Denser air will contain more air molecules which will cool the wire more and the MAF will always respond accurately to temperature or altitude changes. This is why a MAF doesn't need an additional temperature sensor to be accurate. Despite this many MAF sensors do in fact contain a temperature sensor which is required by some engine management systems and can also be used a secondary check to verify the the operation of the mass air flow sensor. A hot film sensor takes things further than the hot wire because it's able to measure not just the actual air mass but also the direction and the pulsation or reversion of incoming air mass. The hot film MAF senses direction by having two air mass sensing elements next to each other. They work the same way as the single hot wire but because there's two of them the integrated electrical circuit can see which element experiences changes in resistance first, which it means it can tell the direction of the incoming air stream. When it comes to the location of all of our air flow measuring devices so far they're almost always found right after your air filter, but our next device is differet. and this tiny little thing here is a MAP or a manifold absolute pressure sensor. And it's name already tells us where it is and what it does. It's located on the intake MANIFOLD and it senses air pressure in the intake manifold. Most MAP sensors measure pressure by relying on piezoelectricity, which is electrical charge that accumulates in certain materials when they are exposed to mechanical stress. Most modern MAP sensors actually use micro-machined silicon pressure sensors a.k.a. silicon chips. The changing air pressure inside the manifold will flex the silicon chip to different extent creating measurable changes in the current that accurately correspond to the changes in the air pressure. 00:00 Vane Air Flow Meter 06:06 Karman Vortex Air Flow Meter 08:11 MAF sensor 14:00 MAP sensor A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Pepe Brian Durning Also, a big thanks to Stephen Bello for his valuable contribution to this video D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #enginebootcamp #maf

In this video we are doing a detailed comparison of two different cylinder heads, a performance cylinder head represented by the high revving Toyota 4AGE and an economy cylinder head represented by its more modest cousin, the 4AFE engine. Both of the engines from which this heads come from share an equal displacement and an almost identical cylinder block design, which means that the key differences between the engines lies in the heads, making this a great example to demonstrate how cylinder head design influences engine character, power, torque, efficiency and more. Although both our heads are DOHC and have the same number of valves, they differ in the way their camshafts are driven. In our economy head only the exhaust camshaft is directly driven by the belt, but in our performance head both camshafts have their own cam gears and are directly driven by the belt. In stock form this doesn't play a big part but the performance head has a key advantage when it comes to tuning. It gives you the opportunity to install adjustable cam gears on both cams and retard or advance cam timing independently for intake and exhaust. Both heads feature a shim over bucket valvetrain. A staple of many Toyota engine designs the shim over bucket is easy to maintain, compact, lightweight and low friction but it's limited in the amount of cam lift and duration you can run with it. Too much lift and duration can pop shims off buckets and high rpms. Which explains why Toyota employed a roller rocket based valvetrain on its more modern 2ZZ-GE engine which features very high lift and duration on the aggressive cam lobes of its variable valve timing system. Honda's K20 is similar example. But our 4AGE and 4AFE are pretty old engine designs. Neither feature any sort of variable valve timing so their camshafts must strike a compromise between high and low rpm operation. When it comes to valve sizes it's interesting to note that the economy cylinder head doesn't fall behind the performance head, largely due to the fact that it's a more modern design. The performance head has thicker and stiffer valve springs to prevent valve float at the higher rpms that it's capable of reaching. A key difference that defines the character of the two heads is the valve included angle. The included valve angle is the angle of the intake and exhaust valves against the cylinder head's center-line. Our performance head features a wide valve included angle, while our economy head features a more narrow valve included angle. If you look at other more modern engine designs you will notice that many of them incorporate a more narrow valve included angle. A narrower valve included angle also has the benefit of improving combustion efficiency, because the air comes into the chamber at a steeper angle it tumbles more which promotes better mixing or homogenization of the air fuel mixture improving combustion and helping the engine squeeze more energy out of the air and fuel mixture. Most modern engines are also able to maintain a good scavenging effect despite the narrow valve included because many have variable valve timing and cam phasing. The combustion chamber is in our performance cylinder head is a typical pent-roof combustion chamber design. It's a staple the design of the vast majority of performance oriented dual overhead cam engines and it is a good design. As you can see when the valve opens the area around the valve is for the most part free and unrestricted allowing the air freely flow, this promotes good airflow and cylinder filling which enables the engine to breath better and perform better, especially at high rpm. The combustion chamber in our 4AFE cylinder is obviously very different. As you can see almost as much as 50% of the valve area is actually shrouded and the valves are set deep in the combustion chamber. It seems that the goal here again was to tumble the air against the walls of the chamber as much as possible with the same goal of maximizing homogenization for better combustion efficiency. The 4afe engine doesn't rev very high at all which is why high airflow that would be need at high rpms was sacrificed in favor of combustion efficiency or economy. 00:00 Intro and specs 01:04 Basic anatomy 02:57 Shims and buckets 04:17 Variable valve timing 06:55 Valve sizes 09:09 Valve included angle 14:59 Combustion chambers 16:16 Intake ports 18:32 Exhaust ports A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Pepe Brian Durning D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #cylinderhead #enginebootcamp

Get in touch with RageRacing and ask about the drop links: https://www.instagram.com/rageracing/?hl=en After quite some time it's time for an AW11 centered video and in this one we're reviewing, installing and testing out drop links for the AW11 made by fellow mr2 mk1 enthusiast and an awesome car guy Rage Racing. Did you notice that there's more names for drop links than for almost any other car part. Sway bar links, anti-roll bar links, stabilizer links... what do you call them? As many of you know, the AW11 aftermarket kinda sucks. It's a cool car but it's not a very common and popular platform so finding genuinely good stuff to modify your suspension with is kinda hard. Especially if you live in the Balkans like me or some other part of the world that isn't the USA. An example of a weak Toyota MR2 mk1 aftermarket are the drop links. That are very few options available and most of the ones out there aren't very good really. Yes, you can still buy brand new OEM drop links for the AW11 directly from Toyota, but they cost an ridiculous amount of money for being completely non-adjustable and pretty thin which ultimately makes them unsuited to modified suspensions. Because you can't adjust their length they won't work for lowered cars or cars with aftermarket sway bars (anti roll bars). When I was rebuilding my suspension I decided not to fork out the ridiculous amount of money for the OEM drop links and I also couldn't justify paying a lot of shipping fees and customs to import something. So I decided to build my own. I imagine that as an AW11 enthusiast Rage Racing faced a similar conundrum, but unlike me he didn't build hideous DIY junk, but an incredibly serious and strong drop link that outdoes pretty much anything on the aftermarket. In this video we're reviewing, installing and testing out the drop links. 00:00 - AW11 aftermarket 02:15 - My DIY drop links 04:58 - New drop links overview 08:13 - Install 09:11 - Test drive A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Pepe Brian Durning D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #aw11 #droplinks

AEM smart coils: http://bit.ly/d4ahocoils AEM boost controllers: http://bit.ly/D4AtruboostX AEM ECU: http://bit.ly/D4Ainfinity5 AEM high flow fuel pumps: http://bit.ly/2D4Ahighflowfp AEM wideband AFR gauge: http://bit.ly/D4Axserieswb Important: Some AEM products may be used solely on the race track and never on public roads or highways. It is the responsibility of the user of any Race-Only products to ensure that they are used in compliance with all applicable laws and regulations. Please check your local laws and regulations before purchasing or installing AEM Performance Electronics Race-Only products for your vehicle. In today's video we are comparing four different kinds of ignition systems for car engines. A distributor based single coil ignition system, a wasted spark ignition system, a coil on plug or direct ignition system and an aftermarket racing coil near plug system. We're starting with the oldest and therefore most primitive setup of the bunch, the distributor. Unlike any of the other ignition systems shown today the distributor controls ignition timing by relying on a mechanical connection to the engine. The distributor is connected to and rotated by engine internals (most often the camshaft) and the speed of the movement of the rotor inside it is synced to the speed of the rotation of the engine. Although it's a system that performs it's duty fine it's obsolete by today's standards and has bay disadvantages over all other ignition systems. The distributor is a source of friction because it adds moving parts to the engine. It's a source of potential oil leaks because the lower part of it's shaft is immersed in engine oil and thus needs to seal it away. On top of this it employs long spark plug wires that generate (extremely small but still present) voltage drops and voltage differences between cylinders. Spark plug wires also need to be replaced as they erode over time, along with the distributor cap that is also a service item. But all of these downsides can be tolerated, the biggest one, that is difficult to tolerate is that the distributor system has limited potential when it comes to delivering spark at high rpms. The single ignition coil which drives the distributor must fire twice during a single revolution of the crankshaft in a four cylinder engine (four times in a v8), which means that in a four cylinder engine spinning at 6000 rpm there's only 5 milliseconds between spark events. This extremely short time frame can result in the ignition coil being forced to fire the plugs before it's fully charged and create a weaker spark or a reduced chance of the spark even happening, which means that the distributor based single coil ignition system can be prone to misfires at higher rpms and is a strong limiting factor if you want the raise the redline of your engine. Compared to this the coil pack based wasted spark ignition setup is a much better ignition system. It doesn't have any moving parts or gears and no oil seals either. The system relies on a crankshaft position sensor that relays the engine position of the ECU which then tells the coil pack when to fire the spark plug. This results in much greater accuracy of the ignition timing. Another key benefit is that inside a coil pack there are multiple ignition coils, and a single ignition coil always handles only two cylinders. This means that, unlike the distributor, the wasted spark coil pack must fire only once every single rotation of the crankshaft, regardless of the number of cylinders of the engine. This means more voltage and better operation at high rpm. A coil on plug system takes things even further. It completely removes spark plug wires as a service item and gives every cylinder it's own ignition coil. This means that a coil on plug, or direct ignition system must fire only once every two revolutions of the crankshaft, meaning even more voltage and even better operation at high rpm and greater power potential and a higher redline. Also because the cop (coil on plug) system gives each cylinder it's individual ignition control it enables the ECU to adjust ignition timing individually for every cylinder resulting in more power, less emissions, better mileage and a smoother idle. The modern coil on plug system is truly powerful and versatile but it too runs out of talent when it comes to highly modified and racing applications. In that scenario you need to step things up to the AEM IGBT (insulated gate bipolar transistor) coil near plug smart coils. These consistently deliver 40.000 volts in all conditions and can handle any amount of rpms or boost you throw at your engine. 00:00 - Distributor 05:41 - Wasted spark 09:47 - Coil on Plug 12:23 - Monster Coil near Plug - AEM High Output IGBT smart coil A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Pepe Brian Durning D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #enginebootcamp

In this video we're doing a detailed comparison of petrol, or spark ignition and diesel, or compression ignition engines. The video covers pretty much all the key points, starting with the differences in the way combustion occurs as well as explaining the diesel combustion process in detail. After this we're explaining why diesel engines don't rev as high and after that the topics are compression ratios, power and torque, efficiency, emissions and fun factor. In essence diesel and petrol engines share a very similar anatomy, and that makes sense because they're both internal combustion engines, meaning they do their combustion internally. What's different is HOW they do their combustion. Petrol engines rely on a spark to ignite the air fuel mixture, while diesels completely forgo spark plugs, ignition coils and the like in favor an ignition started simply be the heat of the compressed air inside the engine. And this results in one of the few differences in anatomy between petrol and diesel engines. Most modern diesel engines actually don't have a combustion chamber, instead the smallest volume of their cylinder is achieved by void in the piston. Therefore, diesel engines have a smaller smallest volume of the cylinder achieving a higher compression ratio. A higher compression ratio means more power and more efficiency. Because the air fuel mixture combusts in a smaller area more energy is transferred onto the piston resulting in the harnessing of more of the energy stored in the fuel. But there's a price to be paid for the higher efficiency generated by compression ignition, and that's cylinder pressure spikes generated during the diesel's combustion process. As you may know, most diesel engines rev to anywhere between 4500 to 5500 rpm. On the other hand petrol engines usually rev to anywhere between 6000 to 9000 rpm. Now there's a couple of reasons for this. The first one is that the cylinder pressure spikes require heavy internals. The other one is that most diesels are under-square by design, but the final reason is key, and that is that diesels don't have a wide range of ignition timing control. They can't control ignition timing to compensate for increased piston speeds, because they can start combustion only when the air is hot enough, and the air is always hottest when the piston is near top dead center. On the other hand a petrol engine with an ECU, a spark plug and an ignition coil or coil on plug can fire the spark almost at any point in the engine's compression stroke. We all know that diesels are also more efficient engines. Again, the reason is a higher compression ratio and the ability to squeeze more power from the fuel. The other reason is that diesels simply use less fuel. They have a stratified or heterogeneous air fuel mixture, meaning that only one part of the air is mixing with the fuel, allowing diesels to run extremely lean. On the other hand petrol engines compress a homogeneous air fuel mixture meaning that they have to worry about knock occurring which limits their compression ratio. Diesels introduce fuel much later into the cylinder, at the end of the compression stroke, before that they compress only air, meaning that knock isn't an issue. Diesel fuel itself is also more energy dense. Because it's composed of hydrocarbons with longer chains it contains approximately 15% energy for the same volume. When it comes to emissions and pollution, diesel and petrol emissions have been traditionally presented as a trade off between environment harming C02 and health harming nitrogen oxides and soot particles. But the picture isn't really black and white and many independent road tests have demonstrated that the CO2 gap between modern petrol and diesel engines is extremely low. On top of this EURO 6 or equivalent standard diesel engines are very clean, and rely on diesel particulate filters and diesel exhaust fluid injection (selective catalytic reduction) to trap close to 99% of the soot particles and nitrogen oxides. Problems arise when diesel cars hit the used car markets. Because of their more expensive emissions equipment maintenance becomes a problem for used car owners often resulting in more overall pollution from the diesels. Fun is a subjective thing and fact is that both diesel and petrol engines can be extremely fun. Petrol engines have a wide power band and often a better soundtrack leading to more smiles per gallon on a twisty road. But diesel give you incredible torque sensations and these can be extremely addictive. 00:00 spark vs compression 03:14 fuel timing 04:05 Diesel combustion process 06:00 Why don't diesels rev high 10:09 Compression 12:46 Knock 14:59 Power & Torque 16:28 Efficiency 18:42 Power modulation 20:54 Economy 24:51 Fun factor A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Pepe Brian Durning D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #enginebootcamp

If you ever tried to roll a piston across the floor you have probably noticed that it's impossible to roll them in a straight line. No it's not your floor, you can try it on the most level surface on earth and piston will never roll in a straight line. It will always deviate from a straight line and roll in the direction of the crown. If you had enough space you would notice that the piston rolls in a giant arc. So what does this tell you? It tells you that the piston sides are not straight, it's not a perfect cylindrical shape and you can easily confirm this by putting the piston on a level surface and having a light source behind it. If you rock the piston from side to side you will notice that the sides are actually tapered. From top to bottom the piston incorporates a taper, with the top being smallest and the taper increasing towards the bottom. So why do pistons have a taper? Why don't they have straight sides just like the cylinder they are supposed to fit in? The reason for the taper is the very nature of the internal combustion engine and the heat that it generates. And pistons being made from aluminum do expand under heat, but all parts of the piston are not exposed to the same amount of heat. The crown being closest to the combustion expands the most, and the skirt expands less. This is why most room for expansion must left at the crown to account for this. If the piston had straight sides we would have one of two negative scenarios. We would either have good ring seal at the top at the expense of loose piston skirt and piston slap at the bottom, or we could achieve a properly fitting piston skirt at the expense of a ring pack that is too tight and has potential to seize or bind in the bore. What happens when we look at the piston from the top? Surely it must be perfectly round in this case because it's supposed to fit into a perfectly round cylinder. Well, the answer is both a yes and a no. The ring pack is indeed perfectly round because it's trying to achieve the best possible ring seal with the cylinder, but everything from below the bottom ringland isn't round. It's actually egg shaped or oval, and to see why we have to remember what happens to the piston during combustion. As combustion occurs, combustion pressure forces the piston down the bore, at that point the sides of the piston, which are at 90 degrees to the piston pin, experience the most load. The sides of the piston are the major and minor thrust side. In clockwise rotating engines, which account for the vast majority of engines, the major thrust side of the piston is always the left side of the piston when looking at the engine from the front. On counter clockwise rotating engines the major thrust side is the right side of the piston when looking at it from the front of the engine. The side opposite to the major thrust side is the minor thrust side. The piston skirt along the major and minor thrust sides must follow a perfectly round contour because these are the load bearing sides of the piston and they need maximum stabilization in the bore. The axis of the piston along which you can find the major and minor thrust sides is of course called the thrust axis. But what about the other axis of the piston, the one along the piston pin? The situation is different here and the skirt along the pin axis does not need to follow a perfectly round contour because the piston pin stabilizes the piston in the bore, and the skirt along the pin axis isn't load bearing. This is why many pistons don't even have any skirt along the bore, and when they do have it they incorporate an egg shaped contour to reduce friction. If the piston skirt had a perfectly round contour along the pin axis it would generate additional friction without any strength or stability benefits. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Pepe Brian Durning D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #enginebootcamp

2020 turned out to be a bit weird. But if there's one good thing I'll remember it by is that I finally got to drive my MR2 close to how much I planned. I planned a big road trip and going across borders, but covid killed that plan fast. So I racked up quite a bit of miles on the local mountain roads. I got to know the aw11 chassis a bit better and understand it better, which proved to be a much bigger eye-opener than I expected. I also spent many hours listening to the bike carb 4age screaming behind my head and that's always time well spent. The conclusions? The aw11 is a genuinely good chassis. It's not as balanced as an mx5 but once you get to know it and spend more time near its limits you will see where it shines. Brake early, and get on the power early and the aw11 mr2 can go flat out through corners through which the vast majority of cars can not. If you've spent most of your time driving FF cars the mid-engined setup will be a bit weird. But once you break the ice and stay on throttle through a corner where you otherwise wouldn't do so, you will want more and you will start pushing that threshold and keep surprising yourself how far the chassis can actually go. I have also come to realize the extent to which peak horsepower is irrelevant on a tight twisty road. We all know this, but seeing it and feeling it over and over in practice is another dimension. Many a modern car will make the mr2 look kinda slow on the highway, but on a tight road more modern cars need a lot of suspension and a lot of driving talent to even have a chance of standing toe to toe with this absolutely ancient wedge. This alone is a bit mind boggling as most information outlets try to convince us that newer is better. In many things, sure, but definitely not in all. Another thing I learned is that to enjoy this car it really needs to be driven hard. For me, this became the only way to experience it in its true form and actually enjoy it. Babying it and cruising in it too much somehow blurs the connection I have with it and I start questioning what's the point of it? It's not comfy, it's loud, it's not practical, it's not frugal, I don't enjoy detailing or washing it so why do I own it? The answer to this question can't be expressed in words, but only through driving it the way it's supposed to be driven. Follow @ficacrew on IG - he's the man that made this video possible. He also took an absolutely ancient Zastava 750 (Fiat 500) to Tunisia, Island, Turkey and beyond and really has amazing stories to tell. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Pepe D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #aw11 #4age

What is up engine heads! Today it's time for a true modern icon. A combination of a number and two letters known by pretty much every petrolhead out there. Of course, I'm talking about the Toyota 2JZ engine and in today's video we will dive deep into it's anatomy to discover what makes the 2JZ so great. In 1978 Toyota wanted a car that would complete with Nissan's very successful Z car, without making a whole new platform. So it took it existing Celica, widened and lengthened it a bit and stuffed the inline six M engine under the hood, creating a bond between the word supra and an inline six, a bond that exists to this day. The new super Celica was called Celica Supra. The Celica Supra lives until 1986, until the word Celica and Supra came apart, and turned into two seprate models. The Supra was no longer mechanically related to the Celica, but was based on the Toyota Soarer platform, a larger and more upmarket platform that gave the Supra room to grow. The new mk3 Supra also received the latest and final version of Toyota's M engine, the 7M-GE and 7M-GTE, which made some pretty serious power for the 80s and gave the supra true grand touring credentials. In Japan the mk3 Supra was also the first one to get some JZ lovin' because in Japan it could be found with the 1JZ engine, signaling the way of the future for Toyota's sports flagship. In 1993 we would see just how great the future was, because in 1993 Toyota revealed the mk4 Supra, and this time Toyota went all out. The mk4 Supra continued on the path set by it's predecessor it offered more of everything. More power, more equipment, better handling and less weight. But a rising yen and a weakening sports car market ended its career pretty quickly, and the world had to wait two decades for a successor. But these two decades are when the 2JZ legend was forged. In 2001 the Fast and the Furious movie came out and the whole world fell in love with the Supra. And tuners soon started pushing the output of the 2JZ, trying to find its limits. But there was an issue, it seemed the word "limit" wasn't in the 2JZ's vocabulary. In 2019 Toyota released the mk5 Supra and sigh of disappointment from the fan-base echoed across the world. Fans expected a 2JZ successor but received a BMW sourced B58 engine instead. And although the new car is objectively good, the new engine too, fans soon started demanding a 20+ year old engine be swapped into the new car. An inline six is a beautifully balanced engine, because in essence it consists of two inline 3 engines which are mirror images of each other. This means that in practice both the primary and secondary forces are balanced out in an inline 6. The engine block is, as we know a cast iron closed deck unit. But there's more to it, the 2jz block is one of the most heavily reinforced blocks out there. It has 11 oil return holes that also act as massive reinforcement ribs. On top of this it incorporates thick curved surfaces for even more rigidity. And to go the extra mile it has a girdle which ties together the bottom of the block making it even sturdier. Watch the video for a bit of comparison of the 2JZ, the RB30, S54, and Ford Barra. The internals are, as expected massive and beefy. The crankshaft is forged steel with very wide and large 52mm rod and 62mm main journals. Rods are also forged steel and are meaty on all 2JZ except on the late model 2JZ-GE with VVTi. The pistons are high pressure cast hypereutectic pistons with an internal oil gallery that combines with the piston oil squirters in the turbo 2JZ block to directly cool the crown underside and reduce chances of knock. The 2JZ turbo has a 8.5:1 compression ratio, which is pretty low by modern standards but it does make cranking up the boost safer. The CR is 10:1 on the non vvti naturally aspirated 2jz and 10.5 on the late model vvti ones. We have 33.5mm intake and 29mm exhaust valves, along with a 45 degree valve included angle. The 2JZ head flows pretty well, but it isn't the best and some engines from the same era will outflow it, which means some porting is a good idea if your power appetites are very big. When it comes to 2JZ tuning you know the drill. Upgrade the fuel pump and injectors, ditch the side mount intercooler in favor of a front mount intercooler, upgrade the cams and valve springs, switch to a big single turbo, get a standalone ECU and you're looking at 700-800 horsepower. If you want to go beyond this you'll need to open up the engine and get forged pistons and 4340 forged aftermarket rods. The crankshaft can stay unless you're going beyond 1200-1500 hp (depending on application). You need a billet block only if you're interested in power figures near 2000 hp. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Pepe 00:00 - Intro 01:27 - History 10:48 - Specs 28:34 - Tuning 34:17 - Cringe D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #iconicengines #2jz

https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/ https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/4agze-oem-piston-set/ What is up engine heads! Today we're talking about semi-forged piston and we will try to clear away some of the miscronceptions surrounding semi-forged pistons, and even other semi-forged stuff like semi-forged wheels. To understand what semi forged pistons are we first have to understand how they're made. So how are they made? Well...they aren't. There's no such thing as semi-forged pistons. It is physically impossible to semi-forge something. It's impossible to forge things half-way. A piston, just like pretty much anything else, is either forged or cast. In many cases when people speak about semi-forged pistons they actually speak about hypereutectic cast pistons. The term semi forged is common in the Subaru community and many people also like to call the 2JZ-GTE oem stock pistons semi forged. In reality they're cast hypereutectic pistons. Hypereutectic pistons are usually a step up from the more common gravity cast eutectic pistons because they do have a higher silicon content (more than 12.5%) which gives them better wear resistance, enables a tighter piston to bore fit and reduces emissions and blow-by). Although hypereutectic pistons need high pressure casting to be made properly, there is still zero forging going on during their manufacturing process. A molten aluminum alloy is fed under pressure into a mold. So the term semi-forged, although used often is definitely unjustified in the case of high pressure cast hypereutectic pistons. So what about semi-forged wheels? Well, in their case the semi forged term is sort of justified. A semi forged wheel starts as a cast wheel with a thinner than specified rim. After it's cast it's set into a special machine that rolls the rim section into the final width of the wheel. This gives the rim section forged-like properties, however the segment of the wheel where the spokes are remains fully cast with cast mechanical properties. What about pistons where the semi forged term is sort of justified? Well, the OEM 4AGZE Toyota pistons are one such case. These pistons aren't made using conventional low or high pressure casting methods. Instead, they are made using semi-solid casting. Semi solid casting relies on thixotropy, a property of certain fluids to be more viscous when agitated and less viscous when at rest. Aluminum is also thixotropic at certain temperatures and the semi solid casting process relies on this property to create parts of very high quality, great surface finish and excellent mechanical properties. Because aluminum is forced into the mould when semi solid there is no slushing or slurring of the liquid which results in zero porosity for the final product. On top of this semi solid parts have an excellent grain flow and a very fine micro structure, similar to that of forged pistons. The process also creates parts with a very smooth finish that don't shrink as they cool. This is why the undersides of semi solid cast pistons look very similar to that of forged pistons, without any parting lines or crosshatches. This makes semi solid cast pistons excellent all-rounders giving them properties of both cast and forged pistons. They are usually made from a hypereutectic alloy with around 17% silicon in it, so they have low thermal expansion, but are strong thanks to their excellent micro-structure. Of course. a fully forged piston made from the 2618 alloy will still take more abuse and be stronger and more ductile, but semi solid cast pistons are much better all rounders. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Pepe D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #semiforged #enginebootcamp

The carbs: https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/product/48idf-48-idf-carburetor-carb-fits-bug-beetle-vw-fiat-porsche-carburettor.html?tracking=d4a Discount code: D4A--get 8% OFF for all orders on maxpeedingrods.com What is up engine heads! Today we're announcing a new build that we will be following on the D4A channel. It's a brand new build unrelated to my MR2 and it's an Alfa Romeo V6 Busso build that will feature triple 48 IDF carburetors peering through the hood of an Alfa Romeo GTV6. So the definition of old school cool. The build has already reached some significant milestones and in the near future we will be featuring the Busso V6 engine assembly, install, first start, first drive and more important events for this engine. The carburetors that will be used on the engine are 48 IDF downdraft carburetors made my MaXpeedingRods. These are very affordable yet very well made carbs that will ensure an incredible soundtrack and throttle response for the V6 lump. Thanks a lot for watching and stay tuned for more updates from this really cool build. As you know, I love carburetors and I'm really excited to be part of this. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Pepe D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #alfaromeo #busso #v6

What is up engine heads! Today we're checking piston to valve clearance on Toyota 1.6 4AFE engine. I am checking piston to valve clearance because I want to use different pistons for my build. I want o use the pistons from the 1.6 4AGZE supercharged engine. But 4AG and 4AF engines have different valve included angles, resulting in different valve cutouts on the pistons, meaning that 4AGE pistons might not properly work with 4AFE valves. Your piston to valve clearance is an extremely important measurement and should be checked and verified every time you modify something on your engine that can affect your piston to valve clearance. So stuff like getting higher lift and higher duration cams, shaving your cylinder head, decking your engine block, using different pistons, increasing the size of your valves. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard Pepe D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #projectunderdog #pistontovalveclearance chill. by sakura Hz https://soundcloud.com/sakurahertz Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported — CC BY 3.0 Free Download / Stream: http://bit.ly/chill-sakuraHz Music promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/pF2tXC1pXNo

AEM boost controllers: http://bit.ly/D4AtruboostX AEM ECU: http://bit.ly/D4Ainfinity5 AEM high flow fuel pumps: http://bit.ly/2D4Ahighflowfp AEM wideband AFR gauge: http://bit.ly/D4Axserieswb AEM digital racing dash display: http://bit.ly/D4Acddash Welcome back to Boost School! Today we're talking about something that is as important as boost itself, and that something is control and we will cover all the boost control setups, starting with the most basic level 1 setup and proceeding to the most complex and performance oriented level. LEVEL 1 BOOST CONTROL - wastegate + wastegate actuator The most basic setup consists of nothing but your wastegate and your wastegate actuator. This simple setup works by having a boost reference line connected to a boost source. Boost pressure is exerted onto the spring and diaphragm inside the wastegate actuator. Once boost pressure gets high enough it compresses the spring and opens the wastegate. Having quick turbo spool up with this setup is next to impossible as the spring inside the actuator is exposed to boost pressure all the time. Your wastegate will be fully opened when you hit the boost the spring is rated for, but your wastegate will actually start to open way sooner than target boost. LEVEL 2 BOOST CONTROL - manual boost controller A manual boost controller will alloy you to make boost than your spring would allow by delaying the boost going through the reference line. Inside a manual boost controller is a spring and a ball. Adjusting a knob or turning the controller itself will change the spring pressure on the ball. Lifting the ball up from it's seat will require more boost pressure than compressing the wastegate spring so your turbocharger generates more boost. Although the manual boost controller is very simple to install and increases boost pressure it doesn't do anything else. It's dumb just like the level 1 setup and references nothing other than boost. It has no idea about your throttle opening, intake air temperature etc. which can result in full boost at half throttle or a setting that needs readjustment for different weather or or altitude. LEVEL 3 BOOST CONTROL - 2 port boost control solenoid The simplest electronic setup involves a 2 port boost control solenoid. The 2 port solenoid is connected into the boost reference line with a T fitting and it bleeds boost pressure from the line between the turbo and wastegate actuator. Essentially the 2 port boost solenoid is lying to the spring in the wastegate actuator by making it "think" there's less boost being made than actually is. The great advantage between a 2 port boost solenoid and any manual boost controller is that the solenoid is connected to the ECU and the ECU can manipulate the solenoid's duty cycle based on throttle opening, air temperature, coolant temperature, etc. so you'll never get full boost at half throttle again. The downside is that with the 2 port solenoid and the t-fitting the spring still sees boost pressure all the time so the 2 port solenoid still can't prevent it from being slightly opened before it needs to be. LEVEL 4 BOOST CONTROL - 3 port boost control solenoid Unlike the 2 port solenoid which is installed with a t-fitting, the 3 port boost control solenoid is installed directly into the boost reference line and it interrupts the boost pressure going from the turbo to the wategate actuator. Because it has one more port the 3 port boost solenoid can control boost more accurately and with less duty cycle compared to a 2 port solenoid resulting in better turbo responsiveness, quicker spool up and more power, as well as more headroom to increase boost later on. LEVEL 5 BOOST CONTROL - 3 port boost control solenoid + external wastegate When hooked up to an external wastegate a three port solenoid can be used to direct boost pressure to the top port of a two port wastegate helping reinforce the spring and keeping it closed. This is a superior setup to "lying to the spring" and it results in even better turbo responsiveness and more aggressive spool up. LEVEL 6 BOOST CONTROL - 4 port boost control solenoid / 2 X 3 port solenoids The 4 port boost control solenoid can do something a 3 port cant'. It can control the top and bottom of a 2 port external wastegate at the same time. A 3 port solenoid can make twice the boost pressure of your base spring, but a 4 port solenoid can make 5-6 times that which means it's capable of generating some extreme boost. The only real downside is poor resolution. Changing a 4 port solenoid duty cycle by just 1-2% can result in 3-8 psi of boost pressure change. To correct a bumpy boost curve generated by a 4 port solenoid you can use two 3 port solenoids, but this will require a very capable ECU and some pretty complex tuning. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #boostschool#boostsolenoid

It's time for a new episode of Project Underdog. Today we tear into the 4AFE engine to see what's it like inside and to prepare it for machining. The future of this humble 1.6 liter from the 90s looks interesting as it will be turbocharged to 300 hp and then installed into my Toyota MR2 mk1. This engine teardown is more than that, because we will also be analyzing some design aspects of the 4AFE, inevitably comparing it a bit to the more famous 4AGE engine and we will also do a bit of engine forensics to see what kind of life the engine has lead so far. I tried to keep this video relaxing and even a bit ASMR -ish, don't know it worked - let me know if it did :) We start the engine disassembly by removing the intake manifold and opening it up to see inside. This is followed up by the removal of the exhaust manifold. The valve covers come off next, followed by the distributor and camshafts. Next comes off the cylinder head and we finish things off by removing the pistons, connecting rods and the crankshaft. Along the way we see if this engine was take care of and we also discover some peculiarities. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #projectunderdog #turbo chill. by sakura Hz https://soundcloud.com/sakurahertz Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported — CC BY 3.0 Free Download / Stream: http://bit.ly/chill-sakuraHz Music promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/pF2tXC1pXNo

What is up engine heads, today we will be taking a detailed look at timing belts and timing chains. We will compare one with the other and dive deep into the benefits and drawbacks of both of these critical engine components all while presenting objective facts on both of these. So what does a timing belt or a timing chain actually do? Well the key word here is "timing" and timing in this case refers to the relationship between your pistons and your camshafts and valves. For an engine to run properly this relationship must be constant and maintained at all times. Chains are more resistant to wear because of course metal resists wear better than rubber. But there's a catch. Metal resists wear well only when it's lubricated and this brings us to our first big difference between timing chains and belts. Belts run dry but chains are splash lubricated by the oil in your engine. This means that chains must be sealed away from the environment to prevent oil leaks. The easiest way to tell if your engine has a belt or chain is to look at the engine. If it has plastic covers on the front, it's likely running a timing belt, if it has a sealed metal cover than it's likely running a chain. Because they are more durable timing chains have much longer service intervals than belts, some chains don't even have service intervals. They last the life of the engine. Even if you don't use the engine at all, a belt should be replaced after 6-10 years, depending on the engine. This is because rubber naturally deteriorates and degrades with time. Timing belts are sensitive to oil and coolant spills, which can significantly shorten their life. High temperatures also contribute to increased rubber wear. A typical modern timing belt needs to be replaced every 60.000 - 100.000 miles. When timing chains do have service intervals, they are need to be replaced every 80.000 - 120.000 miles. While timing belts are generally the same and don't differ much in terms of their design, timing chains come in two main different types - the silent chain and the roller chain. Silent chains minimize the amount of noise created by chain and sprocket assembly. Silent chains are very common in engines and are loved by manufacturers because they are simple and cheap to manufacture. They are constructed from multiple links connected together by pins. The profile of the links fits the profile of the teeth of the sprocket and voila the chain turns the sprockets. On the other hand roller chains incorporate rollers instead of links. The sprocket teeth fits in between the rollers and the rollers roll on the teeth as the chain rotates the sprocket. This both reduces friction and helps spread loads more evenly which also reduces localized wear. Roller chains can be of a dual or single type and as you're probably guessing dual rollers are more durable but due the increased surface area they also create more friction. The drawback of roller chains is that they are noisier when compared to silent chains and that they are also more sensitive to debris and contaminants in engine oil. The first ever engine with a rubber toothed belt was racing car built by Bill Devin in the early 50s. It was a Frankenstein engine that used two Norton Manx cylinders on a Panhard crankcase and an overhead cam layout. The first ever mass produced car to feature a timing belt engine was the West German 1962 Glas 1004. In 1966 Fiat also introduced the first twin cam engine driven by a rubber toothed belt and in the same year the United States got their first belt driven engine in the form of Pontiac's overhead straight six engine. So does this mean that belts are the better choice and that you should choose and engine with a belt instead? No, it simply means that the demands put on today's engines have equalized belt and chain statistics and that some of the good reputation chains had doesn't apply anymore. The reality is that both engine drive systems are equally good provided you maintain your engine and replace components with quality ones when needed. What's more important than belt or chain is maintenance as well as research. Before buying a car with a certain engine, make sure to do your research well and get acquainted with the engine's weak spots so you know what too look out for inspecting the vehicle and can accurately predict realistic maintenance cost that best suit your budget, needs and preferences. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William Richard D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a royalty free Music by Giorgio Di Campo for FreeSound Music http://freesoundmusic.eu https://www.facebook.com/freemusicfor... https://youtube.com/freesoundmusic original video: https://youtu.be/Bd5Of76Ylg4 download link mp3: https://link-to.net/49870/OnBourbonSt... #d4a #enginebootcamp

What is up engine heads! Today we are going to be taking a look at a real milestone for engines. A set of 3d printed pistons that recently passed a pretty demanding endurance test in a very serious Porsche engine. Watch Mahle's original video: https://youtu.be/ztWsivHGL54 Many people still think that 3D printing is years away from industrial use. But Porsche begs to differ and decided to demonstrate the industrial future of 3d printed automotive parts. Porsche has been 3d printing some stuff for a while now, but it's been stuff like parts of your seat. A piston has to survive extremely high combustion pressures and temperatures all while going up and down thousands of times per minute and rapidly changing direction as it reaches the top and bottom of it's stroke. This why 3d printed seat parts are cute, but 3d printed pistons are an entirely different ball game. So Porsche gathered the cream of German engineering seriousness. Big names like Mahle, Trumpf and Carl Zeiss. Together with Porsche they tackled the challenge of designing, manufacturing and testing a set of 3d printed pistons for the fastest 911, the GT2 RS. When it comes to Porsche it doesn't get much better and much faster than this car. So if a set of 3d printed pistons can survive in it's engine, it can likely survive pretty much everywhere else The pistons underwent an endurance test which included 135 hours under full engine load and this is no small feat when you remember that the engine in the GT2 RS is a 3.8 liter twin turbo flat six whose full load produces 700 metric horsepower at 7000 rpm with the help of 1.55 bar of boost. (22psi) Porsche claims that the pistons passed the test with flying colors and although they are not production ready yet and you likely won't seem them in large scale production Porsche cars just yet, the technology is here to stay and the test is proof that 3d printing has a very promising future in engine internals. 3d printing technology allows the pistons to have material only in areas which are subject to high forces and stresses which means the pistons can be made ligther. These pistons managed to get 30 additional horsepower out of an already very high strung engine. A very nice feature they have is an integrated oil cooling channel passing right underneath the piston crown. This is something that is simply impossible to make on a forged piston. And because the piston runs 20 degrees cooler thanks to this duct you also reduce the chance of knock which means you can further advance ignition timing. This coupled with lighter pistons also means you can rev the engine higher and voila, 30 more horsepower. The pistons are created in a high-precision Trumpf TruPrint 5000 (I said 3000 and displayed 3000 machine footage in the video - this is a mistake) laser 3D printer that basically builds the parts 0.02 to 0.1 millimetre layer at a time by fusing a fine metal powder with lasers. The material used for the pistons is a proprietary alloy called M1174+ this an alloy developed and provided by Mahle. Before chucking these things into an engine Porsche really wanted to make sure they are absolutely up to spec so they got Carl Zeiss to to test and measure the pistons with light microscope inspection, electron microscope scanning, X-ray microscope and 3D scanning. I honestly don't know what's the difference between all of these technologies, but it's pretty obvious they really wanted to make sure that the pistons don't fail. So we know that these pistons are 10% lighter and they have a nice oil cooling duct that helps them run 20 degrees cooler. But what about strength? Porsche doesn't give us any data here, they just say that they are "extremely strong" and " comparable to those of cast materials for production pistons". So this likely means that when it comes to things tensile strength and ductility, these printed pistons are likely weaker than a set of forged pistons, but that actually only matters when knock occurs. These pistons are likely more brittle than a set of forged ones, and would likely crack when exposed to knock sooner than a set of forged pistons. But that doesn't matter if knock never happens. The GT2 RS isn't running DIY mega-squirt, it's running state of the art engine management that makes sure knock doesn't actually happen. It might seem contradictory but new technologies will allow us to squeeze out even more potential from the ancient engines we still love and tune today. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan William D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Green screen horses: https://youtu.be/wnHFxfA0WdI 3D printed wind turbine video: https://youtu.be/P2gZN9v6jlk #d4a #porsche #3dprinting

AEM high flow fuel pumps: http://bit.ly/2D4Ahighflowfp AEM adjustable fuel pressure regulator:https://bit.ly/2XoP97w?utm_source=D4A&utm_medium=link&utm_campaign=afpr&utm_term=fuel-pressure-regs AEM wideband AFR gauge: http://bit.ly/D4Axserieswb AEM boost controllers: http://bit.ly/D4AtruboostX Get the turbo from this video: https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/product/gt28-gt25-gt2871-gt2860-t25-t28-sr20-ca18det-upgrade-400hp-turbo-turbocharger.html?tracking=D4A Coupon: D4A--get 8% OFF for all orders on maxpeedingrods.com The most basic observation we can make about a turbocharger is that it can be split into the hot and cold side. The hot side houses the turbine wheel and the cold side houses the compressor wheel. All turbos are connected to the engine on their hot side. So as your engine is running it creates exhaust gasses. These exhaust gasses would otherwise be wasted, but on turbocharged engine these hot and fast moving gasses are used to drive the turbine wheel. On the other side, the cold side, we have the compressor wheel. The compressor wheel has a fixed connection to the turbine wheel via a common shaft. So when you spin the turbine wheel, you also spin the compressor wheel. The compressor wheel shape is designed to suck in air into the turbo charger. It's called the compressor wheel because other than sucking the air in, the compressor wheel plays an important part in compressing the air, after which it send the air through the compressor housing into your engine intake manifold and your combustion chamber. This compression of air is what helps turbocharged engines make more power. So the turbo compresses the air, it stuff more air molecules into a given space and by doing so it increases the pressure of the air which leads to the natural question of how do we control the amount of pressure that a turbo generates. Enter the waste gate. This is what controls the pressure created by the turbo. The waste-gate system consists of the actual waste gate and a wastegate actuator. So this part of the turbo housing and this plate of the cartridge play a key part in pressuring the air. When these two parts come together they create the diffuser. The diffuser turns the turbulent and fast moving low pressure air coming from the compressor wheel into slow moving high pressure air. To understand how it does this we have to take a loot at the ideal gas law which states that gas pressure and volume are inversely proportional. This means that as volume decreases pressure increases and vice versa. And as you can see the shape of the diffuser incorporates a dramatic decrease in volume. The compressor wheel flings and stuff the air into the narrow space, this both slows it down and pressurizes it. The air then travels through the volute and into the engine. As we said pressure and volume are inversely proportional, as one decreases the other increases. But pressure and temperature on the other hand are directly proportional. As pressure increases so too does temperature. And this makes sense, as you compress the molecules closer together they start making more contact, generating more friction and thus more heat. This is why turbos not only pressurize the air, they also heat it up. And this is why turbocharged setups very often include an inter-cooler. The intercooler cools the air back down to prevent the air fuel mixture in the combustion chamber from pre-igniting from being too hot. Now let's take a look at the turbo core. As you can see it consists of the turbine and compressor wheels and the center section which houses the shaft and some holes. This particular turbo is oil and water cooled. It has inlets and outlets for both engine oil and coolant. The compressor wheel on almost all automotive turbochargers is radial. This means that it sucks in the air straight in, but it compresses it in another direction, in most cases 90 degrees offset from the direction of the air entry. Inside the turbo core we can also find some bearings. A turbocharger has two types of bearings. Ones that control theradial movement of the shaft and others that control the axial movement of the shaft. The bearings that control radial movement can either be journal bearings or ball bearings. Ball bearings can be beneficial in the sense that they can offer lower friction and faster turbo spool up time, however journal bearings are also adequate for a very wide range of applications. The bearings that control the axial movement of the shaft are called thrust bearings. T This video was basically turbo 101 and in our future videos we will keep diving deeper into the turbo with more detailed analysis of all of ti's components including different compressor wheel designs, wastegate types, bearings and much much more. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #boostschool #turbo

Turbo Link: https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/product/gt28-gt25-gt2871-gt2860-t25-t28-sr20-ca18det-upgrade-400hp-turbo-turbocharger.html?tracking=D4A Coupon: D4A--get 8% OFF for all orders on maxpeedingrods.com There are no affiliate sales going on here. I don't make any money if you buy anything from the MaXpeedingRods website. JK Fab video: https://youtu.be/0BJrmBvsdq8 Super useful video if you want to see the internals of these turbos and see how the balance checks out. What is up engine heads! So in today's video we will be unboxing a GT28 turbo from MaXpeedingRods. This is a turbo that I will be using on my upcoming Project Underdog build, where I plan to boost a Toyota 4AFE engine to 300hp. The engine will be going into my Toyota MR2 mk1 AW11. The MaXpeedingRods GT28 turbo is meant to replicate the Garret GT2871r, but for a fraction of the cost, and in today's video we will take a detailed look at this turbo, examine it's pros and cons and see how it compares to the Garret, and also how it fits into the plans for Project Underdog. I'll also be relying on a video from a channel called JK Fab, whose video greatly helped me decide on getting this turbo and offers great value and insight when it comes to all the info on the MaXpeedingRods GT28 turbo. The MaXpeedingRods GT28 turbo is a rather large turbo for a 1.6 liter engine, but it will give me the opportunity to see how this turbo sizes behaves on my engine, in real world conditions, without actually risking a large sum of money. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #projectunderdog #MaXpeedingRods

Today for the first time ever I'm showing you another side of d4a as we take a little look at some failed footage I randomly dug up. As many of you know I'm not a native English speaker. This combined with the facts that I can't pronounce my Ls properly and aim to cram as much information as possible into my sentences sometimes results in repeated failures to say something the way I want to say it. I work with very loose scripts (often bullet points) and every Sunday is a deadline, which means that recording needs to be finished in time so that I have enough time to edit my video. So, as the number of failures racks up frustration builds and eventually leads to some pretty weird stuff, some of which you can see in the video. I have a pretty short fuse too and things often quickly escalate from mild to wtf. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Much love, D4A

What is up engineheads! Today we are going to look at the differences between steel, aluminum (or aluminium if you will) and titanium connecting rods, and we are going to see which one of these is best for your engine build. Let's start with good old common steel. Steel is a great material, it's strong and it's plentiful and has been the material of choice for connecting rods for many many decades. Steel rods can be cast, forged or billet. Cast ones are ok for stock applications, but are usually a bad idea if you're interested in significantly increasing the power and torque output of your engine. Forged rods offer a superior grain structure within the metal, which becomes far more coherent thanks to the large pressures exerted on the rod during the forging process. Billet steel rods start out by having their rough shape cut out from a plate of forged steel and then finish machined on a CNC machine. Billet rods don't have the surface degradation that occurs during forging, which means a fully machined billet rod has the same kind of material with the same carbon content and quality both in it's core and on its surface, making billet rods better at resisting the formation of cracks. The majority of steel connecting rods found in OEM applications use steels from the 51XX series, so stuff like 5130 or 5140. When it comes to aftermarket forged connecting rods you will typically see the 4340 alloy, which in addition to having a high carbon content also has other elements (nickel and molybdenum) which make it a superior connecting rod material. Steel has a tensile strength of approximately 200.000 psi and excellent fatigue life, the material doesn't get tired unless you push it to it's yielding point. Now let's take a detailed look at aluminum connecting rods. We know that aluminum is a much weaker material than steel. While high carbon steel typically has a tensile strength of around 200.00 psi, aluminum only manages around 95.000 psi. So why in heaven's name would you put something that's twice as weak inside an engine and expose it to all the extreme loads of engine operation? Because aluminum is a lot lighter than steel! And when it comes to performance engines light is right! The lighter the rotating assembly of your engine - the better! Aluminum rods also have the ability to act as shock absorbers. Because they sort of give in a bit to the peak loads present in an engine, they help absorb these loads and transfer less of the stress onto your bearings and crankshaft. But there's a price to be paid for all the benefits. Aluminum has a much shorter fatigue life compared to steel and engines with aluminum rods must be warmed slowly and fully before you can beat on them, and once you beat on them you have to let them cool of a bit. Something else you need to consider when installing aluminum rods into your engine is clearance. Sometimes they don't clear stuff in your crankcase, like girdles or the bases of the cylinders, and you need to adapt these to suit the rods. And now for exotic guy in the bunch! Titanium. Many describe titanium as an incredibly strong material, often stating that it is stronger than steel. This is a bit misleading. The reality is that titanium is impressively strong compared to it's density. Titanium is significantly less dense than steel while maintaining comparable strength which means it's lighter than steel but with pretty similar strength. This is why titanium rods don't need to be thick like aluminum rods. In fact titanium rods will usually look similar to steel rods. Aluminum rods are typically machined out from billets of high quality aluminum alloys and are rarely forged. When it comes to titanium the opposite is true because the forging process greatly benefits titanium and helps increase it's strength. Titanium is less dense and it also has smaller grains compared to steel, so the forging process does a lot to help improve the grain flow and increase the strength of titanium. The downside is that titanium rods are prohibitively expensive and that's not jut because the alloy itself is expensive but because titanium is very difficult to machine. Titanium is also very susceptible to galling, or friction welding but the galling issue has been largely solved with coatings such as chromium nitride or titanium nitride which is why you can find titanium rods in mass production vehicles like the Honda (Acura) NSX or the Corvette Z06 with the LS7 engine. By the way, the first ever application of titanium rods in a production vehicle was Honda's amazing RC30 motorcycle. Titanium is also very notch sensitive so you have to be careful not to scratch titanium rods when handling them. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora Daniel Morgan D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #enginebootcamp #rods

In today's episode of Engine Boot Camp we take a look at the differences between H beam and I beam connecting rods. H-beam Rods Link: https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/Toyota-Corolla-E80-E90-1.6L-4A-GE-122mm-Connecting-Rod-High-Performance-4340-EN24-H-Beam-Conrod.html?tracking=D4A Coupon: D4A -- get 8% OFF for all orders on maxpeedingrods.com. Unboxing video: https://youtu.be/-E0H2voOC2M Now, I'll need you to ignore the difference in size between these rods. One is for a Toyota 4AGE 1.6 16v engine and the other is for a Fiat Twin cam Turbo 2.0 engine going into a Lancia Delta Integrale (a.k.a. Lampredi engine). Their difference in size aside, these connecting rods are great for this video because they are typical examples of the H beam and I beam connecting rod designs. Now people often ask which design is better, which one should I put into my engine? Well before we answer that we first have to understand where the name I beam and H beam comes from. To understand why they are called H and I beam conrods you have to look at their cross-section. You have to look at the rod from above, as if you were looking at it from the top of the cylinder bore. You then cut of the top half of the rod and you get the cross section. The cross section of the H beam is a capital letter H, while the cross section of I beam is a capital letter I. Now that we know why they're called I beam and H beam let's see which one is better. Which one should you chuck into your precious engine? Well, I'll be honest with you. I-beam vs H-beam is a very controversial topic. You could read 6 articles on H beam vs I beam and chances are high 3 articles will tell you one thing and the other three articles will tell you completely different things. There was a popular opinion for some time that the H beam design is stronger and that the I beam design is lighter. Based on this the H beam design was supposedly better suited to the high combustion pressures associated with forced induction and the I beam was better suited for high revving naturally aspirated engines since it is lighter. This is a rule of thumb, at best. Honestly, it's not even a rule of thumb because today we have so many exceptions to this rule that it simply doesn't hold water anymore at all. You also might hear that the I beam is better at handling normal, while the H beam is better at handling abnormal forces. If we grossly oversimplify this it means that the I beam is better at resisting being bent from the side while the H beam is better at resisting being bent at the face. Again, this a rule of thumb and provisions in the design are key to making the rod handle both normal and abnormal forces within an engine. If the rod is made from the right material and if the design incorporates that material in the right places both and I beam and H beam can be made to handle abnormal and normal forces equally well. So which should you choose? If you're a car enthusiast building an engine for the street, some track days or maybe some amateur racing. It doesn't really matter at all. Either design will work well and you really shouldn't focus that much on whether the rod is an H beam or an I beam, instead you should focus on the material the rod is made from and how it's made. This is the reason why I chose the MaxPeedingRods connecting rods for my engine build. They are a budget rod, very affordable, but despite of that they are made from the right material using the right manufacturing process. They are made from 4340 steel and after being forged they are multi-stage head treated, surface treated as well as x-rayed and magnafluxed. And this is something that will play a much more important role for the ultimate performance of your rod rather than the H-beam or I-beam design. Something else that is absolutely key and that could make or break your rods is your install, more specifically the tolerances upon install. Do this wrong and the rod will fail, no matter how good it is. Now let's look at some things that you want to avoid on both H and I beam rod designs. 1 - Sharp edges and angles. You do not want these anywhere on the rod. You want smooth edges, radiuses, fillets and tapers. These will spread the load and ensure your rod copes with the stresses in an engine. 2 - You want a shot peened surface. Almost all rods have that today. 3 - You want the maximum possible connection between the big end and the shaft. This is a very common area of failure and the largest possible connection here is key for strength and durability. 4 - Also you have to think about your application. If you want high rpms you need to look for the lightest possible rod that will still provide the needed strength. If you're looking for massive hp and lots of psi of boost then weight takes a backseat to strength. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #enginebootcamp #rods

What is up engine heads! Today it's time for the first ever boxer engine on Iconic engines! And of course we're starting out with Subaru's mainstay engine, the EJ20 and EJ25 engines. Although the Impreza made the EJ20 famous, the Legacy was the first car to have it. In 1989 Subaru introduced the first generation of the Legacy and with it the EJ20 engine, which was designed to replace the EA engine. Now the EA engine wasn't bad, but by 1989 it had become a bit ancient. The EA engine was introduced way back in 1966 to power the first ever front wheel drive Subaru car, the Subaru 1000, and from that point onward it powered more Subaru vehicles, most notably the Leone, the Brat and the 80s-tastic XT. Unlike many manufacturers that first introduce low performance version of an engine and then upgrade it later in the production run the EJ20 was available in three versions from day 1 in the Legacy. A SOHC, a DOHC and a turbocharged DOHC engine, with pretty impressive hp numbers right from the start. But in 1992 magic happened. Three letters combined to create something beautiful. WRX. World Rally Experimental. In November of 1992 the first generation of the Subaru Impreza WRX debuted and with its turbo boxer, stiffened up suspension and symmetrical all wheel drive it brought rally inspired technology to the masses. In 1994 letter soup magic struck again. STI, Subaru tecnica international which further enhanced the WRX recipe with even more rally awesomeness. The EJ20 engines in the STI Imprezas churned an impressive 250 horsepower from the 2.0 blueprinted engines. Each of these engines received special attention and dedicated tuning which is why only one hundred of these were made per month back in 1994. Just 1 year later Subaru proved that it had a winning recipe because in 1995 the EJ20 engines in the rally prepped Imprezas took both the Driver's and manufacturer's championship titles in the Wolrd Rally Championship, bringing these cars international fame. Subaru would take the both titles two more times, cementing it's dominance in World Rally before withdrawing from WRC in 2008. In 1994 the larger 2.5 liter EJ25 enters the scene in Japan and by 1996 it was on the US market. Designed to respond to the instant torque needs of the American consumer the larger EJ25 started life in the Legacy and the Outback but spread quickly to power the majority of Subaru's vehicles including the Impreza, the Forester and the Baja. Starting with 2004 the larger EJ took over as the engine of choice for both the WRX and STI imprezzas (not in Japan) as well as the high performance versions of the Legacy, Forester and the Outback. But did you know that an EJ engine also powered a SAAB? Yup, in 2005 the Saab 9-2x was introduced to the US market and as you can see it's not really a SAAB but a rebadged version of the Imprezza. Here's something else you might not know, and that's that the EJ20 engine existed in twin turbo form. From 1994 to 2005 Subaru installed twin turbo ej20s into Japanese Legacys and Australian Liberties. All EJ engines can be divided into two phases. Phase I: EJ15E, EJ15J, EJ16E, EJ18E, EJ20D, EJ20E, EJ20G, EJ20H, EJ20J, EJ20R, EJ20K, EJ22E, EJ221, EJ25D Phase II: EJ151, EJ161, EJ181, EJ201, EJ202, EJ203, EJ204, EJ205, EJ206, EJ207, EJ208, EJ222, EJ251, EJ252, EJ253, EJ254, EJ255, EJ257 Phase 1 covers fron 89 to 98 and Phase 2 from 99 and onward. When it comes to the engine block all ej engines feature aluminum blocks with cast iron liners and aluminum heads. The EJ engines are an extremely rare example of an engine that can be found with a closed deck, and open deck and a semi open deck block. Early turbocharged ej20g engines produced until mid 1994 featured a closed deck with oil squirters for the underside of the piston. These are pretty rare nowadays. Starting with 1995 open deck block engines appeared and stayed in use for some naturally aspirated and ej205 equipped WRX, but starting with 2001 the vast majority of turbo ej engines feature semi-closed decks. Compression Ratio: 9.5:1 - 10:1 (9.5:1 - 10.7:1 JDM) Naturally Aspirated Compression Ratio: 8.0:1 - 9.5:1 Turbo The block castings for EJ20 and 25 engines are virtually the same despite their different displacement. The EJ25 achieves greater stroke by using a different crankshaft and bored out blocks but uses the same length connecting rods as the EJ20 engines. This results in a different rod ratio between EJ20 AND 25 engines. The tuning aspect of the EJ engines is unfortunately filled with misconceptions that refuse to go away and resulted in a reputation of weakness. Fact is that the vast majority of EJ engine failures isn't due to design, but due to the wrong tuning or the wrong parts. People with actual know-how build these engines to well over 1000hp today. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #ej25 #ej20 #iconicengines

After publishing a video every Sunday for 30+ this Sunday I decided to do something super simple and take it easy for a day or two. So I retarded my ignition a bit and squeezed a few pops from my exhaust and decided to explain a bit of the theory of making pops and bangs / exhaust popcorn/ pop and crackle, or whatever else people call it. It's a super simple and straightforward guide that will get your exhaust popping in no time :) A few additional notes when it comes to exhaust pops and carburetors: - In my case the Nodiz doesn't allow negative ignition advance values (below zero), and in many cases you want negative values for bigger and louder pops and bangs from the exhaust. This is part of the reason why the pops you can hear in the intro to the video are pretty mild. - Also for louder pops and bags with carbs you will often want pilot jets that are a bit larger than is recommended for good idle air fuel ratios, this means that your mpg may be suffering in the interest of pops and bangs. This is the other part of the reason for my mild pops and bangs as I didn't touch any of the jets on the carbs to get the little pops. - For maximum pops and bangs you also want the engine as warm as possible, the pops and bangs will often be loudest during hard driving when the exhaust manifold gets very very hot. Cast iron manifolds usually produce inferior pops and bangs compared to welded steel manifolds. Thanks for watching and much love to you all! A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a

What is up engine heads! This is the first episode of Boost School, the series that will cover EVERYTHING on engines and forced induction. AEM water-meth: https://bit.ly/2zrOkSp?utm_source=D4A&utm_medium=link&utm_campaign=wmi_Kits&utm_term=watermethanolinjection AEM boost controllers: http://bit.ly/D4AtruboostX AEM wideband AFR gauge: http://bit.ly/D4Axserieswb AEM digital racing dash display: http://bit.ly/D4Acddash AEM ECU: http://bit.ly/D4Ainfinity5 The turbocharger started out in 1905 with a patent by Alfred Buchi. He called the patent exhaust driven pre-compression. Nope, it wasn't called a turbo straight away but that's exactly what it was. An exhaust driven turbine with a compressor wheel on a common shaft. But the prototype Alfred Buchi built based on his patent wasn't a success, it was massively unreliable and it would take another 15 years before Alfred Buchi's idea was proven in practice. In 1920 an airplane called the Packard Le-Pere Lusac 11 did something that was considered impossible for a very long time. It climbed to an altitude greater than 10.000 m or 33.000 ft and it did this by relying on turbo power. It ran a V12 Liberty engine which was turbocharged by a giant turbo built by the General Electric company in their turbine research department headed by Sanford Moss. The turbocharger that brought the Lusac 11 beyond 10.000 metres and proved Alfred Buchi's idea was a good one was one of the first properly working turbochargers ever made. It still wasn't called a turbo, funnily enough GE called it a turbo supercharger. World War 2 was a great time for turbos as General Electric and Ford together made more than 300.000 units and strapped them to legendary airplanes such as the B-17 Flying Fortress, the B-24 Liberator, the P-38 Lightining and the P47 Thunderbolt. A German plane called the Focke-Wulf FW 190 also ran a turbo which helped it outrun many other war birds. In the 50s car and truck manufacturers started experimenting with turbos on their vehicles but without much success, that is until 1962 when GM introduced the Oldsmobile Jetfire and the Chevrolet Corvair Monza Spyder, the first ever turbocharger passenger cars. The Jetfire seems to have been names by 6 year old transformers fans, as the engine was called the Turbo Rocket and you needed to top it up with Turbo Rocket Fluid to get the promised performance out of it. Turbo Rocket Fluid was actually a 1/1 mixture of water meth and it was necessary to prevent the Jetfire from experiencing massive detonation. Unfortunately the Jetfire and the Corvair proved to be unreliable and they had to be removed from the market after just one year. Although they weren't a success in terms of sales these cars were important boost pioneers that demonstrated the potential of turbos on passenger cars. In 1973 BMW introduced the next big step in the history of boost, the BMW 2002 Turbo. BMW managed to squeeze out 170 hp from the 2002 2.0 liter engine and make it a real pocket rocket of the 70s. Although the car was fun and fast it also had massive turbo lag, largely due to it's very low 6.9:1 compression ratio that was needed to prevent knock due to yet undeveloped turbo technology and the lack of a inter-cooler. But it was a step forward, the 2002 didn't need any water-meth to prevent self-destruction. 1975 perhaps the greatest breakthrough in the history of the turbo was made when Porsche introduced the first 911 Turbo. This car was a major milestone for the turbocharger as it managed to change perceptions. With it's giant rear wheel arches and whale tail spoiler the 911 screamed speed and power. When it was released the single turbo flat six of the 911 made it the fastest production car in the world. Thanks to this car the public no longer associated turbos with something unreliable, quirky and cause for horrible mpg, now they associated turbos with power and speed. In 1978 Mercedes introduced the first ever passenger turbo diesel car the, the Mercedes 300 SD and proved that diesels and turbos are a match made in heaved. The 80s started out with a bang as Maserati introduced the first ever twin turbo passenger car in 1981. It was called the Biturbo. The 80s was a massively important time for the turbo as the technology started evolving and many flagship vehicles from many manufactures around the world were turbocharged. Today the turbo is an absolutely critical player in the trend of downsizing. What does the future bring? Well, with the ever rising number of Hybrid drive-trains many see the the future of the turbo in the form of the e-turbo. It will consume electricity to totally eliminate turbo lag, but it will also generate electricity during it's operation. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #boostschool #turbo

Do you know who invented the V8 engine? Which country does it come from? It's got to be America right? It's the home of the v8 and the v8 is the heart of the muscle car, I mean it's common knowledge that the first ever V8 was brought down from heavens by a great bald eagle. Well actually no. The first ever V8 comes from the country that could be called the national polar opposite of America: Le France! The first ever V8 engine was designed, patented and made functional by a Frenchman called Leon Levavaseur. D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Mr. Leon levasseaur was a genius engineer and inventor. Born in 1863, Levavaseur initially studied fine arts, but later realized that he's a true engine head and switched to studying engineering. And this was a decision with great timing, because by the time Levavasseur beame 37 and a well versed engineer something big started happening in the world. The dawn of the 20th century was also the dawn of powered flight. The first years of 1900s saw many different Pioneers of powered flight experimenting with countless different airplane designs, but for flight to be powered, you need, well, power and if you want serious power that's gonna keep you in the air for longer than a few seconds, then you need an engine. And while many pioneers tried to make their engines as small as possible by sacrificing displacement and the number of cylinders with the goal ofreducing weight, Levasaseur had a different idea. He believed an airplane engine didn't have to be miserable and look like a toaster in order to be lightweight, Levassaeur was confident that he could build an engine that could do both, big power and light weight. But to make that happen he of course needed money. So in 1902 he approached industrialist and money equipped person by the name of Jules Gastambide and presented his engineering vision. Unlike some of the slightly pathetic engines in pioneer airplanes Levavasseur's idea was much more ambitious. Instead of using 1, 2 or three cylinders, Levavasseur envisioned a configuration of 8 cylinders split into two banks placed 90 degrees from each other. An immortal design that is still popular today, more than a century after it's inception. Needles to say Jules Gastambide was impressed with the idea and decided to finance the project. In a show of gratitude towards Gastambide, Levavasseur names the engine after his daughter Antoinette. In the same year in 1902 Levavasseur filed for a secret patent and immediately established a workshop to start working on the engine. The next year his first v8 engine was already a functional prototype. But if you think he stopped at v8, you're wrong. Just like memory card sizes nonchalantly doubled up from 8 to 16 GB, so too did the Antoinette engines, and our good friend Leon built V16 engines too. But even that wasn't enough, Levavasseur also built giant V24 engines for marine applications. some even say he built a v32 engine, while other sources disagree and claim the v32 never really made it past the design phase. But what's more incredible than the number of cylinders is how ahead of their time these engines were. The engines Leon Levavasseur built weren't just the first v8 or first v16 engines, they were also the first ever engines produced in quantity to feature fuel injection. On top of that they were even liquid cooled. All of that in the first decade of the 1900s. One of the most impressive Antoinette engines was the one developed for flight Pioneer Alberto Santos Dumont. It was a very small and very light engine whose power to weight ratio wouldn't be surpassed for a long time. Using this engine Dumont completed the first ever European powered flight longer than 25 meters and became the first person ever to be filmed in an airplane in flight. Another first powered by this engine was the first ever recorded flight in the UK, carried out by American Samuel Cody, flying a distance of 420m in October 1908 But Antoinette wasn't just a company that was ahead of it's time with engines. It was also the company the developed what could be called the first ever flight simulator. No it didn't have screen or any electronics, it was just a person sitting in a half barrel on a universal joint and "flight instructors" shaking him from the outside. But the pilot trainee in the barrel did have some rudimentary controls that he could use to counter the external forces applied to the barrel. So it might not have been high-tech but it was a design in the right direction. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora #d4a #v8 #antoinette

Rods Link: https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/Toyota-Corolla-E80-E90-1.6L-4A-GE-122mm-Connecting-Rod-High-Performance-4340-EN24-H-Beam-Conrod.html?tracking=D4A Coupon: D4A--8% OFF for all orders over ＄200 on maxpeedingrods.com What is up engine heads! Today we're unboxing some aftermarket forged connecting rods that will become an integral part of my turbo Toyota 4afe engine build that I'm calling project underdog. Although these are budget rods by a company called MaXpeedingRods and have a price that seems to good to be true, I think these are actually good rods, perfectly adequate for high horsepower forced induction builds. They're made from 4340 steel and feature ARP 2000 bolts. They're drop forged at high temps, cnc machined and then multi-stage heat treated, x-rayed, sonic tested, magnafluxed and shot peened. Watch the video to see the unboxing as well as other features of the rods. A special thank you to my patrons: Daniel Peter Della Flora #d4a #forgedrods #MaxPeedingRods

The ugly irrelevant economy oriented sibling is here and it has big plans! This is the beginning of a big brand new chapter for the d4a channel. We're building a serious heavily modified turbo engine whose goal is to make 300 horsepower, and oddly enough it will be based on the economy oriented Toyota 4AFE engine. I'm calling it Project Underdog. D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a A special thank you to my patron: Daniel #d4a #projectunderdog

What is up engine heads! It's finally time for the one and only GM LS engine! D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a In 1676 Sir Isaac Newton wrote this in one of his letters „If I have seen further it is by standing on the shoulders of giants“. If there was ever an engine that this quote applied to, it's got to be the LS engine. Because the GM LS is the direct descendant and the modernized and improved version of one of the most Iconic engine designs ever made the Small block Chevrolet engine. The timeless original small block design was on the market for almost half a century and during that time it managed to set itself apart by being a class leader in many aspects. But by the 90s the small block Chevy finally started to show it's age. It was time for a successor. So GM introduced the Generation II of small block engines, but unfortunately without much success. The Generation II was largely based on the original small block, and just like the small block it started to struggle with the strict emissions, mpg and weight regulations of the 90s. So by the mid 90s GM decided that it was time for a clean sheet design. A brand new V8 engine. But the generation III and IV of the GM small block could have turned out very differently, because in the 90s everyone was talking about DOCH, V6 that, inline 4 this and even within GM there was this feeling present that the pushrod is a dinosaur with no future. But GM wasn't quite ready to give up their push-rod so to decide the future of the engine GM carried out some blind testing using their own executives which ended with the conclusion that the entire GM leadership preferred the pushrod engine. After driving two otherwise identical C4 corvettes, one with a pushrod LT4 and the other with the Lotus designed DOCH LT5 engine the management decided that the pushrod was staying. But the other important thing done by GM after the blind testing is that they appointed the right person for the job. They didn't import engineers, but relied on one of their own veterans, Ed Koerner. A veteran of engine design but also a true car enthusiast, a drag racer and record holder himself. If you want an engine that will be loved by petrolheads, you better get a petrol-head to design it. The GM LS engine premiered in the form of the LS1 engine in 1997 in the engine bay of the C5 Corvette. It made impact right after it's launch and won Ward's engine of the year award in the same year. In the following years the LS family would spawn several truck engines such as the LM, LR, LY, LQ, some of which make great starting points for projects. The generation IV of the small block started in 2005 with the LS2 and improved many aspects of the engine including the intake and exhaust and brought new technologies such as displacement on demand and variable valve timing. 2006 brought the Z06 C6 corvette and the 7 liter behemoth LS7 engine, which was soon up followed up by the LS3, perhaps the most popular LS swap engine. After this the horsepower monsters, the supercharged LS9 and LSA powered the Cadillac CTS-V, the ZL1 Camaro and the ZR1 Corvette and came as the final hurrah of the LS which would finally end it's production in 2017. Something that was heralded already in 2014 by the C7 corvette and it's LT1 engine. When it comes to the specs all LS engines have 90 degrees opposed cylinder banks and a deep skirted Y shaped engine block which is a massive improvement in strength over the original small block chevy block design. The deep skirted block also enabled engineers to design 6 bolt cross bolted main bearings caps. The block also accommodates some very long held bolts for minimized bore distortion. All LS engines have forged powdered metal connecting rods with fracture split caps. An exception to this are the LS7 and LS9 engines which feature some very fancy titanium connecting rods. The heads feature hydraulic valve lifters and some very nice lifter guides that make it possible to swap cams on the LS engine without removing the heads. When it comes to tuning, the LS engine family is a true champion because it has a lot of things going for it, it's readily available, reliable and has an amazing aftermarket. The block is strong and can take a lot of boost. If you want massive power the only thing your really have to get rid of are the stock cast pistons and powdered metal rods, after which the LS engine can take you to the stratosphere. The stock crankshaft, even though it's cast nodular iron, is very strong and can take 1000 hp like a champ. When it comes to the camshafts, many stock LS camshafts are pretty well suited for boost, except when aiming for obscene power. NA tuning the LS on the other hand starts with cams, intake and exhaust and some remaps. A very special thank you to my Patron: Daniel driving 4 answers is part of the Amazon Associates program. #d4a #iconicengines #lsallthethings

What is up engine heads! Today we're doing a bit of time travel! Why? Because I want to tell you a really interesting story about Maserati, and their incredible 6 valve engine from the 80s. D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Our Journey starts in 1975. Why in 1975? Because that's when Argentinian entrepreneur Alejandro De Tomaso, yes, that De Tomaso, the one that founded the DeTomaso car company that would eventually make the Detomaso Pantera, the Detomaso Mangusta and other seriously cool cars. In 1975 Alejandro de Tomaso was living in Italy instead of his home country of Argentina, because in 1955 he forced to flee his country after being implicated in a plot to overthrow Argentinian president Juan Peron. After arriving in Italy Alejandro De Tomasso became Alessandro de Tomaso, he worked as a mechanic, then a race car driver, and then using money from his wife's wealthy relatives he went on a shopping spree and bought out coach builders Ghia and Vignale, motorcycle makers Moto Guzzi and Benelli and car and scooter maker Innocenti. But his most famous purchase happened in 1975, when he managed to convince the Italian government to help him rescue Maserati from bankruptcy. In 1975 Maserati was owned by Citroen, who were also undergoing financial struggles at the time, so with support and funds from the Italian government De Tomaso bought Maserati from Ctiroen in 1975 and immediately set out to transform the company. De Tomaso's plan was to bring Italian luxury to the masses, and make make cars that were more affordable and produced in larger volume than the cars Maserati was making under Citroen, such as the Maserati Bora or the Maserati Khamsin. And in 1982 his plan was materialized with the launch of the Maserati Biturbo. The first mass produced twin turbo-charged car in the world. A car that cost half as much as previous Maserati models and aimed to compete with BMW and Mercedes coupes and sport sedans. And although some may not like the styling of the Biturbo it featured a very clever engine for the time. And it had to be clever, because at that time Italy heavily taxed any cars with engines larger than 2.0 liters. So Maserati had to make a 2 liter or smaller engine but still make the power expected from a luxury sports car. So what they came up with was a pretty revolutionary engine for the time. It was an all aluminum 2.0L SOHC V-6, with Nikasil coated wet-sleeves and twin oil cooled IHI turbos. BTW IHI stands for Ishikawajima-Harima Heavy Industries, and it's a Japanese company that in addition to turbos also makes suspension bridges and ships. The turbos were installed one on each bank of cylinders and were pretty small. Small turbos were chosen so they could spool up quickly and prevent the dreaded massive turbo lag that plagued many turbo cars from the 80s. But despite this, the engine made 180 hp from just 2.0 liters and propelled the BiTurbo to 100 km/h in just 6.5 seconds. Pretty impressive for 1982. And while time would show that the initial carbureted Maserati Biturbo cars would be plagued by many reliability problems, the car was a business and sales success. With almost 40.000 Biturbos sold throughout the years, generating the much needed profit to save Maserati from bankruptcy. DeTomaso succeeded in his plan, but he wasn't satisfied yet. The newly acquired profits meant Maserati could go invest into some R&D and show off to the world what they're capable off by further developing the tiny little v6 engine. The 2.0 liter Biturbo engine had three valves per cylinder. 2 intake and 1 exhaust, and this wasn't enough. If you wanted to be on top of the performance game in the 80s you needed 4 valves per cylinder. But DeTomaso wasn't a man of small appetites, he wasn't just going to increase his valve count by 1, so he decided to skip a few engine evolution stages and instructed engineers to start working on something truly incredible. A six valve cylinder head. He even one upped Yamaha's craziness of their 5 valve FZ750 super-bike that they introduced in 1984. So 1985 a late 1985 press release titled "Hi-Tech News," the Maserati 6.36 engine was a 2.0-liter 36-valve V6 set to hit the road in a two-seat sports car in just a few years time. The press release got everyone excited but after some time passed....nothing. Silence. Nobody ever heard anything about the 6 valve from Maserati again. Why? What happened, why did they never make this truly incredible engine? Well, for that answer you'll have to watch the video :) A very special thank you to my Patron: Daniel and http://maserati-alfieri.co.uk/ for maintaining an incredible website full of amazing information on the 6.36 and everything else Maserati driving 4 answers is part of the Amazon Associates program. #d4a #maserati #6.36

what is up engine heads, for today's episode of engine boot camp we're in the the garage because I want to talk about differences between advertised and real camshaft duration. D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a As you probably know, the two key attributes of every camshaft are camshaft lift and camshaft duration. Camshaft Lift determines how much a valve is open, and is expressed as the maximum distance of the away from the seat reached by the valve during engine operation On the other hand camshaft duration determines how long the valve is off the seat, that is how long the valve remains open, and this is expressed in degrees of crankshaft rotation. There's nothing deceiving when it comes to lift values. The valve opens this many mm and that's your valve lift, and that's pretty much it. It's always just one simple number and it is impossible to misrepresent anything when it comes to camshaft lift. On the other hand camshaft duration values can be pretty tricky or even deceiving and to understand why this is the case we first have to understand how is camshaft duration measured. The starting point for the measuring of the duration is when the valve gets off the seat, and the end point for measuring duration is when the valve returns to the seat. Now camshaft duration is actually expressed in degrees of crankshaft rotation. Our example intake camshaft has a duration of 240 degrees, so what does this mean? It simply means that the intake valves of any particular cylinder in this engine are open for 240 degrees out of the 360 degrees of the crankshaft's full single rotation. Simple right? Well not really, because this raises an important new question: at what exact amount of valve lift do we actually start measuring duration. Is it when the valve is 1 mm of it's seat? Or maybe 0.5mm off the seat? Or maybe we should measure in inches and talk about 0.05 inches or 0.006 inches from the valve seat? Does it even matter? Well, it definitely matters, because the starting valve lift has great impact on the final camshaft duration value. It may seem that the difference between 0.1 mm, 0.5 mm and 1 mm of valve lift is negligible for duration, but it's really not and has a very significant impact. For example this particular camshaft, which is an OEM Toyota 4AGE 16v bigport camshaft, has 240 degrees of duration when you start measuring duration at 0.1mm or 0.003 inches of valve lift, on the other hand it only has 204 degrees of rotation when you start measuring at 1.2mm lift off the seat or 0.05 inches. That's a difference of 34 degrees, which is very significant when it comes to camshaft duration. Often duration numbers are thrown around the internet and forums are stated simply in degrees of duration, without the valve lift point at which duration was measured. And this can make it very difficult or even impossible in some cases to compare different camshafts when looking for an upgrade for your engine. If all you have is the advertised duration it's almost like having nothing, because you have no idea where that duration value comes from, and what might seem like comparing two camshafts, one with higher and one with lower duration might in fact be completely misleading, the long duration cam, could very well be the one with shorter duration. So what's the key takeaway here? Well it's very simple, you need to know at which lift point duration is measured so you can actually compare different camshafts, otherwise you're a bit in the dark as advertised duration can be misleading so the next time some dude on the forums or a Facebook group tries to sell you an aggressive long duration camshaft make sure to ask him about that lift point. A very special thank you to my Patron: Daniel driving 4 answers is part of the Amazon Associates program. #d4a #enginebootcamp #camshaft

What is up engine heads, in today's episode we're talking about the differences between open deck engines, closed deck engines and semi-open (semi-closed) deck engines. After watching this video you'll be able to identify the different engine block deck designs but you'll also know how they differ from each other in terms of strength, cooling, their performance potential and more. D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a The key difference between open, closed and semi closed engine block decks is the structural reinforcement in the coolant passage area at the top of the cylinders, that is the engine deck area. Open deck engines will have the entire coolant passage are around the top of the cylinders free and open. Semi-closed decks will also be mostly open, but will have structural reinforcements in the form of little "stems" or "pillars" between the cylinders and engine block walls. The name of the closed deck engine is somewhat misleading because the area around the top of the cylinders isn't really fully closed of course, but there are opening left for the coolant to pass through. Subaru is an interesting brand here because they made virtually the same blocks in all three versions of the deck design. Now if you look up the differences between open deck vs closed deck vs semi closed deck engine blocks online you will likely run into an over-generalization of how closed deck blocks are the strongest because they have the most structural reinforcement and how open deck engines are the weakest because they lack structural reinforcements, but how they have the best cooling because of the largest cooling passages. You'll also likely read how if you're interested in a performance forced induction build you should stick to a closed deck block or reinforce an open or semi open deck block. This information does make sense but it's really outdated and comes from the early days of turboing engines. Closed deck engines are stronger than open and semi open deck ones, but it's not that simple and open decks are not as weak as the internet might try to convince you. Here's an example. The BMW N54 is BMW's first turbo engine in a pretty long time. Some call the N54 the modern day RB26 or the modern day 2JZ. Just like the 2JZ, the N54 is an inline six cylinder, 3.0 liter twin turbo engine, but unlike the 2jz, which is a cast iron closed deck engine, the N54 has an open deck aluminum block, so it stands at the opposite end of the perceived block strength scale. That means it should be weak right? It should fall apart when boost is increased? But today capable tuners and enthusiasts take the bone stock N54 block to beyond 700 whp. And the N54 is just one example there are plenty more modern open deck designs (k20c, ford ecoboost, volvo t5 and many others) where you can increase the boost without the blocks or the cylinder sleeves complaining at all. So how come, why are open deck designs so popular today, and why aren't they falling apart under increased boost. They're popular because they're cheaper and easier to manufacture compared to closed deck designs. Open deck engines can be made using high pressure die casting (hpdc) which is cheaper and simpler compared to methods needed for closed deck engine blocks. But the other side of the coin is that casting technology has come a long way, and is far better and more accurate then decades ago, which enables manufacturers to make much stronger and better open deck blocks. On top of that manufactures have access to sophisticated CAD and simulation software that enables a better and more complex block and deck design. But there's something else that plays an important part as well, and that is tuning technology. ECUs and sensors are much better, much more sensitive and capable than they were decades ago. They are able to sense knock better and react faster to prevent it. The open deck design of the Honda B16 was blamed for the cylinders cracking under boost of these engines in the late 90s. Today we know that the B16 block is good and can sustain well over 400hp on the stock block. What happened in the 90s is that knock happened but the sensors and ECUs did not sense it and react fast enough to preven it. In most cases knock cracks cylinder sleeves, not boost. Just look at the Honda K20 today, capable tuners are taking it well beyond twice it's power level on the stock block. Something that was impossible a few decades ago without significantly shortening the lifespan of the engine. So the key takeaway is that the open deck and semi open deck engines aren't weaker, they actually have a smaller margin of error for knock, but good tuning and modern electrinics are capable of keeping the engine safe, even within a smaller margin for error. A very special thank you to my Patron: Daniel driving 4 answers is part of the Amazon Associates program. #d4a #enginebootcamp #engine

So here's a tiny bit of anti cabin-fever treatment. Decided to try out my 15$ Supersprint muffler I picked up for 15eur by chance on a junkyard Stay safe everyone. There will be a nice pure drive video coming soon A very special thank you to my Patron: Daniel

What is up engine heads, welcome to another episode of engine boot camp, and today we're talking about the backbone of every engine, the engine block! D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a First let's start with the basics. As you probably know the engine block is the backbone of every engine...if the engine were a human, the engine block would be the skeleton. And just like a human would be nothing but a blob of meat and skin without it's skeleton, so too would an engine just be a mess of parts on the floor without it's block. The engine block is the largest and most intricate single piece of metal of every engine. Everything on the engine, the crankshaft, the cylinder head, the exhaust, the intake, and even the transmission, gets bolted onto the engine block. And as you're probably already the engine block is as old as the internal combustion engine itself, it was there from day one and it will be there until the end. Although the first ever airplane engine to fly, the one in the Wright flyer of 1903 had an aluminum engine block for weight saving purposes, aluminum blocks were rare throughout much of the internal combustion engine's history, where cast iron blocks held a dominance for a very long time. Aluminum engine blocks started could be found in mass production passenger cars as early as the 60s, but they were far less common than cast iron blocks. Throughout the 60's and 70's aluminum engine blocks accounted for less than 2% of newly manufactured engine blocks. But this percentage would keep increasing through the decades, with aluminum engine blocks reaching almost one third of all new engine blocks in the late 90's. Beyond this point Ever tighter emissions and fuel consumption regulations pushed manufactures to find ways of building ever lighter cars and vehicles and ever more efficient engines, this tipped the scales in favor of aluminum and by 2005 aluminum engine blocks caught up with iron ones and shared an equal 50/50 percentage in newly manufactured engine blocks. Today, aluminum engine blocks account for more than 2 two thirds of all newly manufactured blocks, a percentage that will likely keep increasing. But newly manufactured engines aside, you will still find many tuners, enthusiasts and race engine builders preferring and sticking to cast iron engine blocks by re-machining and rebuilding these blocks into very serious and capable engines. Before we proceed there's something we first have to make clear. The term aluminum or aluminum and iron is a bit misleading , because within the term aluminum there are hundreds of different aluminum alloys and there are dozens of different grades and classes of gray cast iron. So to be more accurate, let's first make it clear what kind of aluminum and what kind of iron are engine blocks actually made from. As I said iron engine blocks are usually made from gray iron, one of the most common types of iron used for casting. Now cast grey iron is divided into classes or grades . Engine blocks are typically made from class 20 or 25 grey iron and have a tensile strength in the range of 20.000-25.000 psi. OEM Aluminum engine blocks are most often made from the one of three alloys: 319, A356 or A357, Now there's another aluminum alloy that billet aluminum engine blocks are made from, and that alloy is 6061 alloy which is significantly stronger at 60-70.000 psi, however billet engine blocks are an extremely expensive aftermarket only thing reserved only for the most extreme of racing applications Now Aluminum cylinder blocks aren't just lighter than cast ones, they also run cooler because they are better heat conductors, so they're able to transfer more of their heat onto the coolant and pull more heat away from the combustion chambers. This enables engineers to specify higher compression ratios by keeping combustion chamber temps lower and preventing hot spots and detonation. Higher compression is good for both power and efficiency. This is why the 4g63 was replaced by the 4b11, the rb26 (rb25dett) was replaced by the vr38 (vr38dett) and the 2jz (2jz-gte) was replaced by the BMW B58 I guess. But there's a price to be paid for better heat conductivity, and in case of aluminum engine blocks it's a higher chance of warping if the engine overheats. To sum it up: Aluminum engine blocks are lighter, their cracks are easier to repair, and they're capable of having higher maximum compression ratios and are more thermally efficient. On the other hand cast iron blocks can take more boost, are cheaper and easier to rebuild, and are better at absorbing noise and vibrations. So who's the winner? Well it really depends on the application, both have significant benefits and the better choice really depends on what you want to do with the engine A very special thank you to my Patron: Daniel driving 4 answers is part of the Amazon Associates program. #d4a #enginebootcamp #engineblock

Welcome to the dark side. We have airflow, an amazing intake port design, an incredible aftermarket. Coming soon, to a swap near you - the Honda K20 and K24 D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a So first, a bit of history. The K20 first appeared in 2001, very soon after Honda's F20C engine that heralded many of the amazing technologies we would see in the K20. The first cars to get the K20 engine in 2001 were the JDM EP3 Civic Type R and the Integra Type R. Europe got the K20 in the same year in their version of the Civic Type R. Australia and New Zealand got their K20 in 2002 in their Honda Integra Type R. USA got it's first K20 engines in 2002 as well, in the Acura RSX and the Civic Si. The first K24 engines also appeared in 2002 in the Honda CR-V and the JDM Accord Type S. Very soon after this the K20 and K24 engines spread like wildfire throughout the Honda model range, powering much of it's vehicles (anything from the Honda Odyssey to the Honda FR-V and many cars in between) Today, 19 years after it's introduction the Honda K20 and K24 engines are still as popular as ever, surrounded by an incredible aftermarket, enthusiasts, tuners and racers all around the world seem to be creating ever more impressive builds. This is likely the greatest testament to the brilliance of this engine's design. But not all K20 and K24 engines are the same. They differ between each other substantially and can be divided into performance and economy versions on the K20 and K24. The performance and economy versions are different from the very core. Inside a k20a3 engine for example you will find a forged steel crankshaft, while inside a k20a2 or a k20z1 or k20z3 engine you will find a forged steel crankshaft that is also fully counterweighted, something that's important if you want so spend a lot of time in high rev range. The connecting rods and pistons are different too. Performance k20 and k24 conrods are beefier with a higher tensile strength. Pistons are cast and have molybdenum coated skirts in all k engines, but they feature noticeably larger domes for higher compression in performance k20 and k24 Honda engines. But perhaps the biggest different is in the v-tec system of these engines. Both performance and economy honda k20 and k24 engines feature i-vtec, which adds intelligence to v-tec. In reality it adds camshaft phasing, the ability to advance or retard camshaft timing based on various inputs given to the engine's ECU. Now performance i-vtec features has three two different camshaft profiles, a mild one for low rpms and an aggressive one with higher camshaft duration and lift for higher rpms. In addition to this it has VTC, which is the variable camshaft timing we already explained and described. In contrast to this economy ivtec functions in a different way. At low rpms in opens just one intake valve fully and the other only slightly to prevent fuel from pooling behind the valve, this saves fuel and improves emissions. At higher rpms both valves are opened, but lift and duration remains unchanged. Also, economy i-vtec doesn't have VTC and has nothing variable on the exhaust valves. Another important feature of the Honda k20 and k24 is a narrower valve included angle, compared to older Honda performance engines such as the B16 or B18. This enabled engineers to design an optimal intake port shape and maximize airflow. Stock K20 heads are capable of flowing 290-300 cfm, which is more than impressive. The other reason why k20 and k24 heads flow so well is the size of their intake and exhaust valves. k20 engines come with 35 mm intake and 30 mm exhaust valves, while in some k24 you will find 35 mm diameter intake and 31 mm diameter exhaust valves on some k24 engines. The potential of the k20 and k24 means that k-swaps are everywhere now, and people have ventured well beyond the usual k20 / k24 into ek, ef, eg, civic or da integra. Nowadays k20 are often making into rwd chassis cars too. When it comes to naturally aspirated tuning, the k20 and k24 engines are one of the few engines capable of reaching 300hp with relative ease (it's not easy) and can generate as much as 500 NA hp if you're crazy enough. But of course everyone's into forced induction nowadays and turbo k20 and k24 as well as supercharged ones abound. Bolt on kits are everywhere and you can build pretty much anything, the only limits are the thickness of your wallet and the sky. "Safe" turbo power for a stock k20 or k24 block is around 300 hp, but many people have gone beyond that, whether it's on borrowed time or not, really depends mostly on your tuning. If you're willing to spend on forged pistons and maybe even reinforce the block with some block guards, upgraded fasteners and ductile sleeves the k20 / k24 is ready to take you beyond 1000 hp. A very special thank you to my Patron: Daniel driving 4 answers is part of the Amazon Associates program. #d4a #iconicengines #k20 #k24

AFM air flow meters: https://tinyurl.com/qkuep74 D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Boy oh boy do I got something special for you today. It's an engine that hasn't officially seen the light of day yet, but it's there, it's coming and it will completely change the game! Now I was very fortunate to have been given some top secret information from a source who has been working on this engine during the past 5 years, and while the information is limited, we still have a more than enough of it to know this will be a truly amazing engine well worth an iconic engines episode. Now as this is an engine that hasn't officially hit the market yet, there isn't a lot of actual "history" but there's still a lot of really amazing stuff surrounding the story behind the 3jz project. Now as I already said in the intro all my info on this engine comes from a person who has been working on the 3jz project for the past 5 years as part of the engineering team. The incredible thing is that he's a fan of the iconic engines series and got in touch with me saying that the people must know about this engine, the upcoming 3jz. Fearing for his job at toyota, he of course asked to remain anonymous, which is something I will definitely respect, as I'm extremely grateful to Mr. Hayai Kurumahito for sharing all this information with me. So the 3jz engine has actually been conceived in 2002, as a successor to the amazing 2jz-gte engine in the A80 Supra and other Toyota models, and while Toyota had planned many innovative technologies for the 3jz engine, ever increasing emission regulations and the financial crisis of 2008 almost completely killed off the 3JZ engine. So all of the plans were put on hold until 2012. This when Toyota had recovered from the financial crisis and had enough funds generated by hybrid vehicle sales to be able to resume the 3jz project. Toyota put together a small team of extremely talented engineers and re-started the 3jz under code name "game changer". Because the mission given to the engineers was to create an internal combustion engine that would change the game in every sense of the word. It will be like the 2JZ but a million times better. The Toyota Supra will be glorious yet again. Work resumed on project 3jz but the new engine was so packed full revolutionary technologies that engineers struggled to make it reliable. And this is when Mr Kurumahito steps into the scene, the was invited to join the project in 2015 after it had started struggling to make actual progress. But after Mr Kurumahito got on board thing finally started moving along, but the engine was still too complex and things weren't moving as fast as toyota wanted. and this is why toyota made a deal with bmw, they decided to put the b58 engine into the new supra to fool everyone and to buy time until the 3jz was ready. so let's start with the engine block, which is a closed deck aluminum engine block, so nothing revolutionary there, but here's the revolutionary part. it is a 7 cylinder engine. We have an almost square engine design with 87.4 mm of bore and 87.3mm of stroke, giving us a displacement of 3.6 liters, or 3666 cc to be exact. The crankshaft is as you would expect a fully counter weighted forged crank, and it's an extremely beefy design. Both the pistons and connecting rods are forged from the factory to insure maximum strength and boost handling capabilities. Now while the 2JZ engine has a twin turbo that many people like to turn into a big single turbo 2JZ, the 3JZ engine will completely change the game, because more is better and it will have seven turbos. So you will no longer be looking for a 2JZ engine for sale or checking our a 2JZ engine price, because the 3JZ will be where it's at. It will also drastically lower the A80 Supra price. DISCLIMER: This is an April Fool's video. Everything in this video is for humor purposes only and is entirely fictional. This is satire. This video does not represent any official information or views/opinions of Toyota or any other companies, nor my own. I have no access to any insider information from Toyota. All persons depicted, along with their names and other data are fictional and their resemblance to any real persons, whether alive or dead, is entire coincidental. Again, this video is a joke. AFM doesn't exist, Kurumahito doesn't exist, the 3JZ will sadly not happen anytime soon or ever probably. A very special thank you to my Patron: Daniel driving 4 answers is part of the Amazon Associates program. #aprilfools #d4a #iconicengines

Welcome to crankshaft 101. Once you're done watching this video you will know all the basics you need to know about crankshafts and more! We will cover the many different types of crankshafts and their advantages and disadvantages, all the terminology related to crankshafts like crank throw, crank radius, cross plane and flat plane, we're also going to talk about how crankshafts are made, the heat and surface treatments, lubrication and much much more. https://www.patreon.com/d4a D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch How it works? All internal combustion engine crankshafts have main journals and rod journals. Here are the main journals, these are what the crankshaft itself rotates on and are held in the engine block by the main bearing caps. Rod journals, a.k.a. crank pins or big end journals are where the big ends of the conrods are connected to. Rod journals are connected to main journals via crankshaft webs. Now, the distance between the main journal center-line, and the rod journal centerline is called the crank throw, a.k.a. crankshaft radius. And this measure determines the stroke of the engine. The stroke of an engine will be 2 times the crank throw. At the end of the crankshaft we are going to find a flywheel flange, this is where the flywheel is bolted onto. The flywheel with it's heavy round mass smooths out the pulsation of the combustion inside the engine occurring at different times. On the other end f the crankshaft is the nose. This is where the crankshaft pulley is attached. These are the counterweights. The operation of an internal combustion engine generates strong rotational forces, and the mass of the piston, piston pin and rings and the connecting rod moving up and down at high speeds generates a very significant force that is exerted onto the crankshaft. The counterweights have the task of balancing out these forces. We will talk about counterweights in more detail later in the video. The holes you can find in the rod and main journals are oiling holes. Oil coming thorough the engine block into the crankshaft and out these. Another very important design element of the crankshaft is the radius fillet. Engineers take great care when designing this, because a proper radius fillet is key to a crankshaft not breaking apart. The radius fillet is key because it spreads the load and relieves the stress in what would otherwise be an extremely common point of stress fracture on any crankshaft. Crankshaft manufacturing process There three main manufacturing processes for crankshafts are Casting, forging and CNC machining. Casting is the most cost effective processes and in general results in the weakest art. Cast parts are often more brittle, that is to say they have a lower tensile strength and lower ductility compared to forged and machined billet parts. Forged crankshafts - the forging process of a crankshaft involves a large crankshaft sized billet being heated up to about 2.500 -2.700 degrees Fahrenheit and then put into giant presses with dies in them that apply anywhere from 150 to 250 tonnes of pressure to shape the heated up billet into a rough forging. The rough forging is then machined and heat treated to create the finished crankshaft. You can tell a crankshaft has been forged by looking for wide parting lines and signs of grinding on those lines. The main difference when it comes to forged crankshaft vs cast is that the forging process compresses the grain structure of the metal into a much more confirm one compared to a cast part which results in greater strength and ductility. Billet crankshafts - when it comes to billet crankshafts there's no casting, or forging or anything. You take a big billet and machine away material until you're left with a crankshaft, that's it. This takes a lot of time, and a lot of machining is needed to make a billet crankshaft which is why billet crankshafts are often very expensive and often reserved for racing and other extreme applications. The great thing when it comes to billet crankshafts vs forged is that there are infinite design possibilities for billet! Crankshafts also often undergo heat and surface treatments such as induction hardening, tufftriding (tuftriding). When it comes to lubrication we have two different types. Cross drilled crankshafts and straight shot oiling crankshafts. To combat drag created by crankcase windage, crankshaft counterweights are sometimes knife-edged Here's a summary of crossplane vs flatplane crankshafts: Crossplane cranks are usually larger and heavier so they have a lower max rpm, but they make the engine run smoother, generate more torque and sound different. Flatplane crankshafts engines are more prone to vibration, but are also more compact and capable of higher max rpms. A very special thank you to my Patron: Daniel driving 4 answers is part of the Amazon Associates program.#d4a #crankshaft #enginebootcamp

These is NOT an official or useful guide or advice on how to deal with anything. Please refer to the CDC, WHO, and other official authorized institutions. I'm not a health expert and am not authorized to hand out any advice or instructions. This is just a little positive spin on all this mess. That being said, driving on back roads works as a great alternative to social distancing, just make sure to take all the necessary precautions when stopping for fuel :) Please, if you're sick or have absolutely any symptoms don't go around driving on backroads. Seek medical help. https://www.patreon.com/d4a D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch A very special thank you to my Patron: Daniel Stay safe out there everybody and let's hope things normalize soon. Much love, D4A

AEM wideband AFR gauge: http://bit.ly/D4Axserieswb AEM digital racing dash display: http://bit.ly/D4Acddash AEM high flow fuel pumps: http://bit.ly/2D4Ahighflowfp AEM boost controllers: http://bit.ly/D4AtruboostX AEM ECU: http://bit.ly/D4Ainfinity5 https://www.patreon.com/d4a D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch AEM wideband install: https://youtu.be/K-nWZcjfaos AEM wideband unboxing: https://youtu.be/6_PWA4DhFkk The name Wankel engine comes from the surname of the dude who invented it, a genius German by the name of Felix Wankel. Mazda's president in the 60s Tsuneji Matsuda, believed that Mazda had to develop a unique technology that would set it apart from other Japanese manufacturers and bring global attention to Mazda. To develop and commercialize the rotary engine Mazda set up a team of 47 young engineers led by Kanichi Yamamoto. Yamamoto compared the mission of the 47 engineers to that of the 47 Ronin, leaderless Samurai who demonstrated incredible perseverance, bravery and persistence in avenging the unjust death of their feudal lord. But commercializing the rotary engine proved to be a lot tougher than avenging a feudal lord. Chatter mars, a.k.a. the devil's nail marks on the housings of the early rotary engines that occurred due to the apex seals vibrating at a resonance frequency, almost drove the 47 engineers mad. Finally, in 1963 a breakthrough was made, hollow apex seals changed the resonance frequency and an aluminum-carbon composite for their material made the engines more reliable. They finally became practical and fit for mass production. All thanks to the incredible persistence of the 47 Samurai of Mazda. Thanks to them, Mazda did something that other much larger and greater manufacturers couldn't. GM, Mercedes, Alfa Romeo, Toyota, Rolls Royce, Porsche, and all others quit the rotary soon after they came face to face with its problems. Another big breakthrough for Mazda's rotary came with the 12A engines. They were available on many different cars, the FB RX-7, RX-3, Mazda Luce, Cosmo and many other models. They introduced a sheet metal insert process that greatly improved the reliability of the Mazda rotary. It made the housing so strong that Mazda could go back to using cast iron apex seals. It also introduced 6PI, a variable six port intake and was the first Mazda rotary to be fuel injected and turbo charged. But the high-point of the Mazda rotary came with the engine code we all know and love. The 13B rotary engine. It was the highest volume rotary ever produced and stayed on the market for an incredible 39 years. The 13B-REW is the highest power output mass produced rotary engine. It's sequential twin turbo setup and two rotors managed to output 280 horsepower in the final version of the Mazda RX-7 FD. The 13b-msp engine found in the Mazda RX-8 abandoned turbos but retained a very high power output while also managing to have the best mpg and emissions when it comes to mass produced rotaries. A 4 rotor racing version of the 13B, called the r26b found in the Mazda 787b won the 24 hours of Le Mans in 1991. It was the first Japanese car to ever win the Le Mans and the only ever to win with anything other than a piston engine. Another notable Mazda rotary is the three rotor 20b engine, found in the Eunos Cosmo. It's pretty rare but it's the only mass produced three rotor engine. With twin turbos it manged to put out 300 horsepower. 13b engine specs: When it comes to the specs of the 13b engine, it's interesting to note that all major Mazda rotary engines share an identical geometry, 105 mm of rotor radius and 15 mm of eccentric shaft offset. The increase of displacement from 10a, to 12a, to 13b was done by making the rotors thicker. The 10a rotary engine has 60 mm thick rotors, the 12a has 70 mm thick rotors and the 13b has 80 mm thick rotors. 13b engine tuning: For the early carbureted 13b engines you can switch to weber carbs, get a performance oriented header and exhaust and see modest power gains. The more modern 13b-rew can make about 350 hp with stock turbos, but will require hybrid turbos to get 400-500 hp or a big single turbo to go above 500 hp. Porting is key for the 13b, and can really change the nature and power curve of the rotary engine. From the mild street port, to the more aggressive bridgeport and finally the outright insane peripheral port, you have plenty of choices when it comes to porting the 13b, each one suited to different power levels and applications. A very special thank you to my Patron: Daniel Rap lyrics translation: My name is 13b and inside me there's a dorito. The sound that I make is very very nice What I do to your wallet is horrible But with me great power is possible You're gonna need to buy a lot of gas for me But you'll never find a more entertaining engine (it rhymes in Spanish) driving 4 answers is part of the Amazon Associates program. #d4a #iconicengines #13b #rotary #wankel #mazdarotary

These carburetors come from a Kawasaki GPZ 900R (the first Ninja) and today they're getting a thorough rebuild and restoration. If you're interested in some carburetor educational and instructional content I have plenty of that too: How to replace float valves on carburetors https://youtu.be/9xUFz8W5xC0 How to disassemble and clean carburetors: https://youtu.be/cavq5MapgWA How to install a carburetor jet kit: https://youtu.be/QwbZ6_46oC8 How CV carburetors work: https://youtu.be/MA3h7qNVQFo https://www.patreon.com/d4a https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch The goal of this video is to be an ASMR-ish relaxing video. I don't really do ASMR videos so I don't have the microphones and other gear for it to be a true full-fledged ASMR video (also I'm not a cute girl willing to flaunt her cleavage which seems to be an ASMR requirement too). But I think it will definitely be relaxing for someone who's into mechanical things, rebuilding them and the like. I mean I did this and I found it relaxing to watch the video afterwards. There's no talking. There's no music. Just a guy rebuilding carburetors. A few important notes to consider. This video does not show the full process of what I did. I didn't show the removal of the jet needle collars and I didn't show me soda blasting the carburetors. To remove some of the stubborn dirt and grime that was stuck in hard to reach places I had to soda blast them. Unfortunately I couldn't show that process as it happens in a box and it's impossible to film it. All you see are clouds of soda smoke. I didn't show a bunch of other small boring sequences. These are Keihin CVK 34 mm carburetors. These are simple and well made very reliable carburetors. You can find them on several dozen different bikes including the Kawasaki KLE250, KLX, KLR, GPZ 500, BJ250, even on some Arctic Cat snowmobiles, and hundreds of other motorcycles and ATVs. The process in the video involves disassembling and inspecting the carburetors and throttle plates. If everything checks out. All the jets are removed and cleaned with carburetor cleaner and compressed air. Every possible hole and orifice of the carburetors is also cleaned with carburetor cleaner and compressed air. If you want, at this point you can paint the carburetors and any brackets. After this gaskets are replaced and sprayed with silicone spray and jets, float valves, float bowls and top covers are installed. Don't forget get to check the float height. I also went a step further and decided to replace all the Philips head screws with allen bolts. I highly recommend this as Philips head bolts are always found on carburetors from the factory, but they get stripped really easily and honestly don't belong on anything other than cheap alarm clocks. A very special thank you to my Patron: Daniel driving 4 answers is part of the Amazon Associates program.

D4A merch: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Today we're picking up a new old engine for my GPZ 750R. After researching I decided that my rusted up engine in my 750R isn't a good starting point for this rebuild/restoration/rescue. Luckily I managed to find a used GPZ 900R engine locally and today we're going to pick it up. Along the way I will show you a bit of Bosnian roads and scenery and tell you about the history of the GPZ 900R. The GPZ 900 R was first unveiled to the public in December of 1983. It laid the ground for modern sportbikes and changed the meaning of the word "sport bike" forever. Kawasaki needed a successor for it's Legendary Z1 motorcycle and after trying many different options and setups they settled for an inline four cylinder engine, but not just any inline four, it was the world's first liquid cooled dual overhead camshaft inline four cylinder engine mounted to a motorcycle. The revolutionary engine was mounted very low in the frame thanks to the fact that it was a stressed member. This enabled the complete removal of the down-tubes (under engine sub-frame) the made the GPZ 900 R narrower, lighter and gave it a low center of gravity. This coupled with the fact that the engine output 115 hp (big power for the time) meant that the Kawasaki GPZ 900R was the first bike ever to break the 150 mph top speed barrier. Only 6 months after the GPZ 900R was unveiled, Kawasaki entered three of the bikes in the Isle of Man Production TT race. They managed to take first and second place. When it comes to the frame and suspension of the GPZ 900R things are less revolutionary than in the engine department. In the front we have a telescopic fork with Kawasaki's anti-dive (AVDS) system. It works and it's ok but it's pretty absolute compared to modern suspensions. In the rear we have Kawasaki's single damper Uni-Trak and the frame is a conventional steel frame. The Kawasaki GPZ 900R is also fairly heavy with a dry weight of 228 kg. The braking is also obsolete compared to modern bikes so this definitely isn't a beginner friendly bike. And I'm definitely a beginner. What am I doing here? Oh well, I'll be careful. As you probably know the GPZ 900R is also a pop culture icon thanks to the movie top-gun. Tom Cruise playing Maverick rides a GPZ 900R is several memorable scenes of the movie. A GPZ 900R was also owned and very much loved by alternative rock legend Lou Reed who even immortalized it in the lyrics of the song "New Sensations" from his album "Legendary hearts" A very special thank you to my Patron: Daniel https://www.patreon.com/d4a

AEM digital racing dash display: http://bit.ly/D4Acddash AEM wideband AFR gauge: http://bit.ly/D4Axserieswb AEM high flow fuel pumps: http://bit.ly/2D4Ahighflowfp AEM boost controllers: http://bit.ly/D4AtruboostX AEM ECU: http://bit.ly/D4Ainfinity5 https://www.patreon.com/d4a Get the shirt: https://teespring.com/en-GB/d4a-merch The SR20DET engine started it's life with an engine orientation many would call uncharacteristic. The first car that had an SR20DET in its engine bay was the 1989 Nissan Bluebird 2000 SSS. Here the SR20 turbo was placed transversely. Next year, more transverse engine placements followed with the Pulsar GTI-R and the Sunny GTI-R. These were special homologation versions with AWD and ITBs on the SR20 from the factory. Truly awesome little cars, but they were produced in pretty limited numbers. It wasn't until 1991 that the SR20 came in the engine placement and setup that we all know and love. In 1991 it appeared longitudinally mounted in the now legendary Nissan 180SX and the S13 Silvia. It stayed with the S-chassis through it's subsequent generations in the S14 Silvia and the European market 200SX, all until the sad end of the S-chassis in 2002. The year when Nissan was left without an entry level sports car, something that all enthusiasts believe Nissan needs again. Bring back the S-chassis Nissan, it was awesome. The SR20DET appeared in other less famous, but still pretty fun Nissan cars like the Avenir, the Liberty and the R'nessa. None of which were global models unfortunately. So what makes the SR20DET engine iconic? Is it the tech? The reliability? The power output? Well it's all of that and none of that. Nissan made a good engine with the SR20DET, but just how good it is was revealed only by the car enthusiast community. To understand this, we have have to understand something very basic and that's that at its core drifting is abuse. Yes, it's a beautiful motor sport today, that requires immense skills, craftsmanship and talent, but from a purely mechanical perspective it's abuse. An engine in a drifting car gets exposed to a tremendous amount of abuse. It's basically bounced off the rev limiter continuously at relatively low speeds that don't allow the engine to cool off. An engine that can put up with drifting and not complain is amazing any way you look at it. The SR20DET put up with drifting and drifters for decades! And even today, a Nissan S-chassis with and SR20DET in it is still the easiest way to enter the world of drifting. This was especially true in the early days, when the 180SX and Silvia S13 had from the factory something that the AE86 didn't. Power and turbo torque. You didn't need to extensively modify an 180SX to drift with it. It was pretty much ready to go from the factory. When it comes to the specs the SR20DET is a square design with 86 mm of bore and 86 mm stroke. It's an all aluminum design with a closed deck aluminum alloy block and DOHC cylinder heads. Stock SR20DET pistons are cast, but feature a thermal coating on the top. The cylinder head has pent roof combustion chambers with both cam gears driven by a single roller timing chain. The intake valve diameter is pretty nice at 34.15 mm. The exhaust valve diameter of the SR20DET is 30.15 mm. Earlier engines that did not have variable cam timing on the intake had high angle intake ports cast into the cylinder head. These have some pretty good flow characteristics. Later engines with VTC have a more conventional intake port design. Valves are actuated via y-shaped low friction rocker arms and feature hydraulic maintenance-free hydraulic lifters. Simple stage 1 budget friendly tuning of the SR20DET usually consists of upgrading the downpipe, the exhaust, maybe a cold air intake and increasing the boost a bit. Most stock SR20DET run at 7 psi of boost. You can increase this to 12 psi until you reach the limits of a mostly stock setup. "Safe" power levels of the SR20DET with stock internals are at around 400 hp. This assumes a good tune and knock monitoring. To get to 400 hp you will need to invest into more serious items like a front mount inter-cooler, upgrade the fuel pump and the injectors and likely upgrade the turbo. The Garret 2871R is a common and pretty good choice. If you want to go well above 400 hp you will need to reinforce the SR20DET internals with some forged pistons and rods. Re-sleeving the block might also be a good idea because it enables you to increase the bore to as much as 90 mm, bringing the the SR20DET very close to 2.2 liters, or even more if you invest in a stroker kit. With these upgrades, SR20DET builds of well over 1000 horse power become a reality. driving 4 answers is part of the Amazon Associates program. #d4a #iconicengines #sr20 #sr20det

AEM digital racing dash display: http://bit.ly/D4Acddash AEM wideband AFR gauge: http://bit.ly/D4Axserieswb AEM high flow fuel pumps: http://bit.ly/2D4Ahighflowfp AEM boost controllers: http://bit.ly/D4AtruboostX AEM ECU: http://bit.ly/D4Ainfinity5 It's time for our first V8 engine in the Iconic Engines series and we are starting with some all aluminum, quad-cam Toyota muscle - the 1uz-fe engine! The 1uz Toyota engine made it's debut in 1989 in the engine bay of the Lexus LS400. But to compact it's emergence on the market into this single sentence is a massive insult to the relentless pursuit of perfection made by Toyota engineers and designers that were part of Project F1. Project F1 was secret, and no it had nothing to do with Formula 1. F1 stood for Flagship No.1 and the goal was to make a luxury sedan that would rival and outdo American and European flagship vehicles. Toyota went all in to make this happen and had a small town worth of people working on project F1. 450 engine prototypes and 900 engine prototypes were made. 1 of those 900 that came on top was the 1uzfe engine. After project f1 was finished and the receipts tallied up Toyota had spent over 1 billion dollars to give birth to the Lexus LS 400 and the 1UZ-FE V8 engine. But it was all worth it, when the LS 400 with the 1uz engine hit the market it was quieter, faster, smoother and more fuel efficient than it's rivals. To top it all off it was also cheaper. But the 1uz engine was ambitious and wanted to do more. It wanted to fly, swim, save lives and race. And it did all of that, well it didn't really fly but it's one of the few automotive engines given production certification and permission to be used in airplanes by the US Federal Aviation Administration. It came from the factory in a few different Toyota boats, and is very loved by boating enthusiasts. Saving lives? It was the engine of choice for the Toyota HiAce HiMedic ambulance van. Racing? It raced in twin turbo form in the Le Mans in the engine bay of the SARD MC-8R. The 1uzfe can be proud of completing it's bucket list. The 1uz has a pretty impressive specs sheet. Inside all aluminum engine block we have a forged steel crankshaft with 8 counterweights (six is the usual number for mass produced v8 engines) and 6 bolt cross bolted main bearing caps. The 1uzfe cylinder head is a bit less impressive, and while it has pent-roof combustion chambers and dual overhead cams, the 1uz cylinder head has a pretty narrow valve angle and port designs that are more oriented towards economy than outright performance. The 1uz camshaft profiles are also pretty conservative and mild. The 1uzfe engine is very compact and lightweight for a v8 engine so it makes a great swap engine when you realize that Toyota 2jz, Nissan RB and other large swap engines have skyrocketed in price. the 1uz is still a relatively affordable swap that gets you into v8 land for less than you might expect. Tuning the 1uzfe engine in naturally aspirated form is best started by getting rid of the factory ecu. It has a pretty conservative tune and since Toyota ecu units can't be chipped or modified your only option is a standalone ecu. When it comes to swaps it's best to find a 1997 and later 1uzfe engine, these came with vvti and had the highest stock power output for a 1uzfe engine at 290hp (300 hp for the Lexus GS 400). Because of it's smooth and linear power delivery and pretty good torque the 1uz makes a lot of sense in drift cars too. The power delivery makes maintaining those long, smooth beautiful drifts a real joy with a 1uz engine. This is probably part of the reason why we keep seeing more and more 1uz swapped 240sx Nissans and other popular drift platforms with 1uz-fe engines in them. After you have a standalone ecu you can focus on increasing the power of your 1uz by replacing the headers, intake, cams and more. Porting and polishing the 1uz cylinder heads also helps as do other mods like two sets individual throttle bodies form a 20v 4age. The 1uz has also proven itself at coping well with boost. Turbo, twin turbo, supercharger or nitrous builds that make tremendous amounts of horsepower are getting more and more common. The best candidates are early 1uz engines made in 1994 and before, these have stronger internals. But finding these early 1uz fe engines for sale is getting harder and harder which is why many people settle for the later engines and upgrading the pistons and rods. The 1uzfe stock block is "safe" at around 450 boosted hp, with the early 1uzfe engine often pushed beyond 500hp. With forged low compression pistons the sky becomes the limit for 1uzfe power. -----rap translation----- I am 1uzfe You're a joke, Mercedes I have a strong block and I can fit anywhere Turbo, supercharger or nitro I'm a better neighbor, Totoro. #d4a #iconicengines #1uz #1uzfe driving 4 answers is part of the amazon associates program.

https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/gauges/digital-gauges/x-series/pressure-100psi-gauge It's time for another unboxing video, it's been a while. This time we're unboxing the AEM X series 30-0301 Oil Pressure gauge (0-100 psi). You're probably wondering why I got an oil pressure gauge when the Mr2 mk1 has an oil pressure gauge in it's stock form. Well that thing is inaccurate and doesn't really give you any kind of numbers. I want numbers. Oil pressure is probably one of the most important indicators of an engine's health, and with the AEM X series I will have real time insight into my engine's ehalth. This can mean the difference between minor servicing or a toasted engine. When it comes to the contents of the box we have a very thing gauge, that is sleek looking and can be easily installed virtually anywhere. The wiring harness is extra long so it will reach from any engine block to any dashboard. Depending on your wiring harness the gauge comes ready for data logging and is compatible with many ECUs including, of course, the AEM infinity ECU line. #d4a #oilpressure

In this video we are going to dive deep into the differences between forged pistons, cast pistons and hypereutectic pistons. We are going to look at the facts, see how forged and cast pistons are made, what makes them different, what are their advantages and disadvantages and then we are going to make an informed decision on which ones are best for your engine. To really understand how forged and cast pistons differ from each other we will first look at how they are made. When it comes to cast pistons their name tells you how they're made - by casting. The manufacturing process of cast pistons starts with a molten alloy which is composed mostly of aluminum and a few other metals. Once the alloy is completely melted and liquid it is poured into a mold (mould). It then cures and solidifies. After this the mold which is usually composed of three parts retracts and the basic piston shape is complete. After this the cast piston requires very little machining and it's ready to be installed into an engine block. How are forged pistons made? Their manufacturing process is very different from cast pistons and there is no melting of anything. A long aluminum alloy rod is cut up into billets. These billets are then heated up and put in a forging press that applies approximately 2000 tons of pressure onto the billet shaping it into a basic piston shape. After this the forged piston shape needs a lot more machining compared to the cast pistons. Forged piston production requires a lot more time which explains why forged pistons are more expensive than cast ones. But the manufacturing process doesn't just play a key part in the forged piston price it also shapes something called grain flow. What is grain flow you ask? Grain flow is the directional orientation and distribution of metallic grains within the piston. For maximum strength you want your metallic grains to be coherent, uniform and rounded off. If you look at the grain flow of cast and forged pistons you will see that they are very different. Cast piston grain flow is random and can even have pockets of trapped air in the casting. This is because there is absolutely no pressure applied to the material during the casting process. On the other hand the grain flow of forged pistons is very uniform and coherent. This is because the forging press applies tremendous pressure onto the forged piston removing any traces of porosity and forcing the grains together into a tight uniform shape. This is why forged pistons are much more ductile than cast pistons. But increased ductility comes at a price, the price is greater thermal expansion. Forged pistons expand more than cast pistons when hot, which means they need more piston to cylinder wall clearance to account for this expansion. This increased clearance can cause piston slap when the forged piston is still cold and this can cause increased wear. Cast pistons expand less, which means there is no piston slap and ultimately a cast piston engine will survive more cold starts and last longer than a forged piston engine. What about hypereutectic pistons? They are also cast, so are ultimately less ductile then forged pistons but are a step up from typical cast pistons. Hypereutectic used to be a biz buzzword in the 80s and 90s but what it really has to do with is the silicon content of the piston. Any piston with more than 12.5% of silicon in it is going to be called hypereutectic. Silicon is important because it improves the wear characteristics of pistons, it makes them harder and thus lighter but most importantly hypereutectic pistons expand even less than typical cast pistons which have on average 8-10% of silicon in them. This means that engine designers can specify extremely tight engine clearances when hypereutectic pistons are used, this in turn improves performance, efficiency, fuel economy and reduces emissions, which is something that every modern engine designer wants. What about silicon in forged pistons? 4032 forged pistons have around 11% silicon in them while 2618 forged pistons have 1-2% silicon in them (some as low as 0.2%). This means that 2618 are the best alloy for extreme racing applications while 4032 pistons are forged pistons that aim for a compromise, trying to give you the benefits of forged pistons while also trying not to expand as much. How often will you drive your car and what are your power goals are the two main questions you should ask yourself before deciding between forged, cast and hypereutectic pistons. In essence your are trading engine longevity for power potential. The more power potential the less longevity you have. It is important to note that both cast and forged pistons have come a long way. Cast pistons are not as weak as the internet wants to convince you, while modern skirt designs and coatings are helping forged pistons reduce wear. MED race technologies: https://youtu.be/Jr6qk5wCPEQ driving 4 answers is part of the Amazon Associates program #d4a #forged #cast

https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/ https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/trigger-wheel-setup/ Today I'm unboxing a really nice and useful product from Manon Racing Products for my 4AGE engine. If you know my 4AGE engine build in my Toyota MR2 mk1 you already know what I have a trigger wheel kit in my car which is based around my Techno Toy Tuning solid crankshaft pulley. My current setup is working well but I want to do something end the debate between solid crankshaft pulleys vs harmonic dampeners. And this is where the MRP 4age trigger wheel kit comes into play. #d4a #mrp #4age

AEM digital racing dash display: http://bit.ly/D4Acddash AEM wideband AFR gauge: http://bit.ly/D4Axserieswb AEM high flow fuel pumps: http://bit.ly/2D4Ahighflowfp AEM boost controllers: http://bit.ly/D4AtruboostX AEM ECU: http://bit.ly/D4Ainfinity5 Today on Iconic engines it's time for our first Honda engine, and it's only right to start with an engine that holds a very special place in Honda's lineage. The engine that brought vtec to the game, the engine that did for import tuning what the Chevy small block did for muscle cars. Today it time to see what makes the legendary b16 engine great. The b16 hit the market in 1989 in the form of the first generation b16a, and the first car that had a b16 in it's engine bay was the Japanese market Honda Integra XSi. Very soon after the B16 found its way into the engine bays of many other Hondas, including the Honda CRX, the Civic, the Civic Del Sol and more Integras. When it came out the B16a engine had a power output of 160 hp. Having a displacement of 1.6 liters this meant that the b16 hit he magical figure of 100 hp per liter of engine displacement. At that time the competition wasn't even close to this power output. How did the b16 engine manage such a power output? The answer VTEC! As you probably know VTEC stands for variable valve timing and lift electronic control. And what it essentially does is provide an engine with two camshaft profiles instead of one. In the case of an dual overhead camshaft engine like the b16 it provides the engine with four camshaft profile instead of two, two for the intake, and two for the exhaust. Honda's VTEC managed to eliminate one of the major constraints of engine design. Engineers were forced to compromise for decades and choose a camshaft that has good idle, torque and fuel efficiency in the low and mid-range and decent performance in the high rpm range. VTEC changed the game by allowing large camshaft lift and duration in the high rpm range and good idle and driveability in the low rpm range. Honda's VTEC technology actually started with a motorcycle. The first mass produced variable valve timing from Honda was called REV and was found on the 1983 Honda CBR 400. It operated two valves below 9000 rpm and four valves above 9000 rpm. It proved that variable valve timing could be mass produced and that it had actual benefits for economy and performance. When you look at the specs list of the b16 engine and remember that it hit the market in 1989 things become really impressive. It also reveals another fact, the fact that Honda was kicking ass in Formula 1 in the late 80s, and many of those racing spec technologies trickled down to the b16. Great attention to detail was given to everything by the man behind VTEC in cars and his team of engineers. This man was Ikuo Kajitani, and he recalls that developing a 100 hp per liter engine at the time seemed like a dream. The dream was eventually made possible with incredible dedication and hard work that gave birth to the b16 engine, a legendary small displacement high performance engine that not only had 100 hp per liter, but was reliable and became legendary for the abuse it could handle. The wild cam on the b16a has 10.7 mm of lift on the intake. The wild cam on the b16b has 11.5 mm on the intake. This was a race only spec at the time. Even the BMW S14 which was a homologation engine has only 10 mm of lift on the intake cam. The b16a also had dual valve springs, a special alloy and surface and heat treatment of the camshafts, a very high compression of 10.2-10.2 (10.8 on the b16b) and much much more. By the way, the different version of the b16a, the b16a2, b16a3, b16a5, and b16a6 are pretty much the same engine. The differences are minor and are down to camshaft profiles, ecu tunes, compression and the different markets where they were exported to. When it comes to tuning, the b16 is one of the most tuned engines in history. Countless builds have been done, turbo, twin turbo, supercharging, twin charging, nitrous, all motor, everything has been done. Every b16 tuning guide imaginable has been written. The b16 aftermarket is still very much alive and these engines are still being built today, despite being 30 years old. If that is not a testament to the greatness of the b16 engine design, than nothing is. By far the most popular thing to do nowadays is to turbo the b16. Despite it having an open deck aluminum block the b16's weakest link is the b16 owner. Many people crank up the bosst of the b16, rely on a weak tune and hope for big power. The result is most often a blown engine and a loud angry owner trying to convince everyone how weak the b16 is and how it shouldn't be boosted without block guards, sleeves and every possible overkill mod. Of course this is wrong. People have pushed the stock b16 block with nothing but forged pistons and a turbo to 450-500 hp. driving 4 answers is part of the amazon associates program #d4a #iconicengines #b16 #honda

AEM digital racing dash display: http://bit.ly/D4Acddash AEM wideband AFR gauge: http://bit.ly/D4Axserieswb AEM high flow fuel pumps: http://bit.ly/2D4Ahighflowfp AEM boost controllers: http://bit.ly/D4AtruboostX AEM ECU: http://bit.ly/D4Ainfinity5 It's time for our first ever non-Japanese engine on Iconic engines, and we are starting with something pretty special, the engine that is likely BMW's best ever 4 cylinder. The legendary S14 four cylinder engine that powered the BMW E30 M3. The BMW S14 engine is actually a Frankenstein engine, this being the case not because BMW was cutting costs, but because one of the greatest engine designers of all time, Mr. Paul Rosche had already designed so many great engines for BMW that there was no reason to work from scratch. The goal of the S14 was to turn the BMW E30 into a DTM champion. Initial plants to shove a straight six into an E30 M3 were abandoned in favor of a lighter four cylinder that could rev higher. A lighter engine meant lower weight and better weight distribution and balance which can be a lot more important than outright power in racing and motor sport. So the BMW s14 engine got an M10 engine block, an M88 cylinder head (with two combustion chambers amputated) and some sexy ITBs. The S14 and BMW e30 M3 combo were so good that the BMW e30 m3 became the most successful touring car of all time. When it comes to touring car championships and Group A racing the BMW e30 m3 won pretty much everything. When it comes to the specs the S14 engine has 93.4 mm of bore and 84 mm of stroke. This gives us an over-square engine design which makes sense because the BMW S14 was designed to spend most of it's time in the high rev range. However, the basic 2.3 liter version, S14B23 wasn't the only available displacement for the S14. Italian and Portuguese markets got a 2.0 liter version which was created by reducing the stroke, while Europe got the 2.5 liter EVO 3 engine at the end of the BMW e30 m3 production run. On top of the cast iron M10 engine block we can find a aluminum alloy cylinder head with dual over head camshafts (DOHC) and a bucket and shim on top of a bucket pushing onto the valves. The camshafts are chain driven and the chain is a good dual row design which doesn't cause any issues. The same can't be said about the S14 chain tensioners, BMW used several different versions and some caused problems with chain stretch and wear. This is why many S14 owners choose to upgrade to the S50 or S52 chain tensioner. The camshafts have 240 degrees of duration and a very impressive 10 mm of lift on both the intake and the exhaust. The power output of the BMW s14 ranged from 189 hp to 235hp for the EVO 3 engine. The US market received only the 192 2.3 liter S14 engine which made 192 hp and had a catalytic converter. When it comes to tuning the bmw s14 engine really is a racing engine adapted to use in normal traffic. As such it's incredibly fun to drive hard even if you don't tune it. You have to understand that this engine needs to be driven hard to be enjoyed, it makes all of it's performance in the top 1000 - 2000 rpms, so if you think it's slow or doesn't have any torque you really are missing the point. How to get more power? For mild tuning you won't be touching the intake or the exhaust manifold because you really won't gain anything there. Some mild camshafts will can get some gains, most will be gained by replacing the stock Bosch motronic ecu with a modern standalone ecu, if you know what you're doing with the fuel and ignition maps you can get some horses and also an aftermarket ecu will allow you to get rid of the stock flap style air flow meter which hampers performance. What about big NA power on the S14? Sure, just do what BMW did in the DTM. This will make you broke but you will have a road illegal engine that's massive fun. Wild cams, throttle slides instead of plates, crazy 4 into 1 headers, porting the intakes, increased displacement, increased compression, dry sump, and you can expect 350 hp. What about a turbo s14? Sure it can be done but be ready that the car will loose massive value. An alternative is to swap something into your e30 m3, get big power out of your system, conserve the s14 and then swap it back when you get bored of the s50 or whatever else you swapped in there. Supercharged S14? Yeah you can do that too, but good luck finding the parts. Rap translation: I have an awesome cylinder head What are you waiting for, press the start button I'm the fastest engine on the Hockenheim I'm so fast there Nobody can overtake me My name is the BMW S14 and I'm the greatest engine you will ever see. It all rhymes in German....I swear. #d4a #iconicengines #e30m3 #e30 #m3 #s14 driving 4 answers is part of the amazon associated program

Time go back into the garage and get dirty again! In the Retro Kawasaki Restoration we take apart the engine of the Kawasaki GPZ 750R (GPZ 900R) to see why the engine won't turn over. What I found isn't pretty, but it won't stop us. I also got some questions for you in this episode. Let's see if we can get over 500 views for this one :) https://www.patreon.com/d4a #d4a #gpz900r #retrokawarescue

Here's a pretty famous cheating story that you might have heard about. But even if you have we are going into the depths of the famous 1995 World Rally Championship Toyota turbo cheat. This happened in 1995, and the cheat was discovered by the FIA in the Rally Catalunya race in Spain. The cheat was committed by Toyota Team Europe, which was then Toyota's racing division in the World Rally Championship. Toyota Team Europe was racing the newly introduced Celica ST205 (successor to the very succesfull st185 and st165) What was the cheat? Well the cheat involved FIA mandated air restrictors that were installed onto the intake side of the turbos on WRC cars at this time (they are still in use today btw). FIA decided to introduce air restrictors to the WRC in order avoid the same accidents that shut down the coolest thing in rally history just a decade earlier. Yes, Group B, was shut down in 1986 pretty much because the cars were getting too fast and the crowds too crazy. The goal of the air restrictors was to tame down the cars and keep the crowds safe. But it is with the air restrictor that Toyota Team Europe saw the opprunity to execute it's brilliant cheat. In an example of engineering and mechanical brilliance a system that would push the restrictor out 5mm was devised. This let 25% more air into the turbo and ultimately into the engine which resulted in a power output of 30 - 50 hp. The brilliant part of the cheat was that the restrictor was in the legal position when removed from the car and in the illegal position when installed back. It was so well made that it managed to impress the people that are there to stop cheating and enforce the rules. Max Mosley who was then president of the FIA couldn't hide his enthusiasm for the cheat: "“It’s the most ingenious thing I have seen in 30 years of motorsport.” said Mosley. He was also very impressed with the craftsmanship: “Inside it was beautifully made. The springs inside the hose had been polished and machined so not to impede the air which passed through. To force the springs open without the special tool would require substantial force. It is the most sophisticated and ingenious device either I or the FIA’s technical experts have seen for a long-time. It was so well made that there was no gap apparent to suggest there was any means of opening it.” However, Mosley did what any FIA president would do, in the interest of motorsport he punished Toyota Team Europe and stripped them of all of their 1995 season points and banned them from racing in 1996. #d4a #toyota #wrc

AEM digital racing dash display: http://bit.ly/D4Acddash AEM wideband AFR gauge: http://bit.ly/D4Axserieswb AEM high flow fuel pumps: http://bit.ly/2D4Ahighflowfp AEM boost controllers: http://bit.ly/D4AtruboostX AEM ECU: http://bit.ly/D4Ainfinity5 Weldspeed intake: https://www.weldspeed.com.au/product-page/3sge-beams-intake-manifold https://www.patreon.com/d4a The Toyota 3SGE and 3SGTE have finally hit Iconic Engines. The 3SGE and 3SGTE are probably the engines that I got most requests to do. So here they are, as the fifth episode of Iconic engines. I think that the 3SGE and 3SGTE engines may be Toyota's best four cylinder, perhaps even best engine altogether. Now before ya'll 2jz people flame me, watch the video and see what makes these engines so great. The 3sge and 3sgte started in 1984. It was a different time back then, a different economy. Toyota had set it's sights on showing the world what it can do by over-engineering everything it could. Toyota also needed a new large flagship four cylinder engine (the 2.0 liter 18R-G was very much outdated by 1984). The 3sgte and 3sge engines were born lucky. It was the right time, Toyota had the right vision, needed a new 2.0 liter four cylinder flagship and the Japan 80s bubble was in full swing. Both the naturally aspirated and turbo version of the 3s engines as found in the MR2 mk2 sw20 and Celica GT-four gt4, among other cars, gave automotive enthusiasts access to lightweight compact power-plants that made good power, could be tuned to make even more and were reliable. Although the 3sgte and 3sge did something amazing for car fans and drivers, they did something far more amazing for Toyota when it comes to motor sport. The 3sgte is by far Toyota's most successful racing engine and here's the evidence to prove it. 1. Tom's Castrol Supra They removed a 2jz so they could fit a 3sgte into a Supra. That Supra with an inline four than beats inline six RB powered Nissan Skyline GTR cars in the All Japan Grant Touring Car Championship (JGTCC, today known as Super GT) Enough said. 2. WRC ST185 Celica GT Four The ST185 Celica GT4 is Toyota's most successful rally car ever. But that's not important. What's important is that it was the first AWD Turbo Japanese car that won titles and trophies in the WRC and disrupted the dominance of European brands. By the time Subaru and Mitsubishi came to kick ass in the WRC, "Celica wuz here" was written on the track. 3. Eagle MKIII The Eagle MKIII was Dan Gurney's All American Racers race car. It was powered by a 800 hp heavily tuned 3SGTE. The block was off the shelf OEM block. The Eagle MKIII won 21 out of 27 races and was so good that the racing class it was created for had to be abolished because of it. 4. Still not convinced. What about Rod Millen's "Celica"? (Not a real Celica, just a tubular chassis monster). But it was powered by another crazily tuned 3sgte, with 888hp in a car that weighed 880 kg. Rod Millen, this car, and its 3sgte will remain as the eternal champions of the all dirt version of Pikes Peak (the REAL Pikes Peak), because Rod Millen's 10:04:06 from 1994 was only beaten 13 years later, when 46% of Pikes Peak had already been paved. When it comes to the specs the 3SGE and 3SGTE use a simple proven design for engine performance and reliability. These square engines employ a cast iron block with a forged steel fully counter-weighted crankshaft that spins on five main bearings. The rods and pistons are cast but a very good design. We have a DOHC alloy cylinder head with both cam gears spun by a rubber timing belt. We have 16 valves and a pent roof combustion chamber design with good squish areas. The 3sge and 3sgte engines were on the market for 23 years and during that time they significantly evolved. The 3sge started with a modest 135 horsepower but ended with a very respectable 210 horsepower in the gen 5 3sge blacktop beams. The 3sgte started with 185 horsepower and ended up with 260 horsepower in the gen 4 and gen 4 3sgte Toyota Caldina. When it comes to tuning, the motor-sport heritage of the 3s engines shows you that they have amazing potential. However 3sge stage 1 stuff like intake, headers and cams won't yield desired results until a standalone ECU is thrown into the mix. Big naturally aspirated power will come at a cost and will require custom internals, crazy cams and serious tuning experience. But fear not, there's a super quick path to crazy fun by swapping a redtop or blacktop beams into an older Toyota chassis (ae86, aw11, ke70, kp61, ta22). When it comes to the Turbo 3SGTE bigger power is naturally achieved more easily. The stock 3sgte internals are usually tuned to around 400 horsepower relatively safely and reliable. Big turbo 3sgte power will require forged rods and pistons, giant turbos and similar upgrades, but the 3sgte stock block and crank have seen beyond 1000 hp without much issues. #d4a #iconicengines #3sgte #3sge #beams

AEM digital racing dash display: http://bit.ly/D4Acddash AEM wideband AFR gauge: http://bit.ly/D4Axserieswb AEM high flow fuel pumps: http://bit.ly/2D4Ahighflowfp AEM boost controllers: http://bit.ly/D4AtruboostX AEM ECU: http://bit.ly/D4Ainfinity5 https://www.patreon.com/d4a A correction: I said "cast iron pistons" in the video. My tongue slipped as I mentioned the cast iron block earlier. I meant to say cast aluminum instead. Today on iconic engines it's time for some real old school cool! It's time to step back in past! it's time for some 70s grooves! it's time for the beautifully simple, obscenely reliable Nissan L24, 26, 28 inline six engine! To be able to fully understand and appreciate where the Nissan L24 L26 and L28 engine comes from we have to go back in time to the early to mid-60s. Back in the early 60s Datsun was selling the 410 sedan in the United States, and while they did get Pininfarina to design it to make it look more European and distinguished the car had one major problem that was hurting Datsun sales in the states. It was slow. The 410 was equipped with a pretty miserable inline 4 cylinder pushrod engine and Mr. K could see his 410 cars struggling to keep up with Traffic on the US freeway. Merging onto the Freeway in the 410 was a nightmare. So when it was time to introduce the successor to the 410 which was the Datsun 510 Mr. K saw an opportunity to make things right. He went to Japan to convince the big shots in the Nissan HQ to give the Datsun 510 a brand new engine, since the original plan was for the 510 to have the same pushrod misery engine as the 410. Eventually Mr. K managed to convince HQ to give the Datsun 510 a brand new overhead cam 1.6 liter that made 96hp and was called the L16. It would later serve as the basis for its bigger brother, the L24. Unlike the 411, the 510 no longer was slow and no longer had problems keeping up with freeway traffic. On top of that it had a great four wheel independent suspension and was actually really fun to drive, and still is today. The roots of the Nissan L engines can be followed way back to a licensed overhead valve design made by Mercedes that was being manufactured by Prince Motor Co in the early 60s. The first inline six in the L series was called the L20. It sucked. But Nissan engineers quickly fixed this. For L series inline six attempt two they decided to use the new L16 design as a starting point to develop the next generation of inline six in the L series. It was called the L20A and it didn't suck. Right around the time the inline six L series was being developed Mr K. was putting his master plan into action. Ever since coming to the States to build the Datsun dealer network he wanted to bring an exciting Datsun car to the market. Something that everyone would want to own. The 510 was great, but Mr. K wanted more, he wanted something that would compete with the likes of Jaguar. He wanted a sports car with a sports car engine. And he got it! After more lobbying with the Nissan HQ in Japan and being very involved in the entire design process Mr. K got the Fairlady Z. The car was everything Mr. K envisioned, except the name which he changes to 240z in the states. And to make it go, it a 2.4 liter inline six engine, called the L24, built on the base created by the L16 and l20a! It all came together in a package that was not only fast, but beautiful and sexy, and desirable, and fun to drive and to top it all off. It was affordable. So what about the L26 and L28 Nissan engines? Well they came out later with the 260z and 280z and were for a large part an attempt to keep up US emission controls that forced reductions in ignition timing and compression ratios. When it comes to the specs the Nissan L24 engine is beautifully simple and because of this its incredibly reliable. The L24 L26 L28 Nissan engines are all a cast iron engine block and an alloy reverse flow cylinder head. The head is a SOHC design with only two valves per cylinder. When it comes to tuning the L24 L26 L28 Datsun Nissan engines they are a bit different than modern engines and ultimately limited in maximum power potential, largely because of the outdated cylinder head design. But they score incredibly high when it comes to engine sound, style and charm. Triple Webers on a l24 l26 l28, or triple Mikuni carbs for that matter, will sound absolutely incredible and be extremely fun to drive. Remember the S30 chassis, the 240z, 260z, 280z are all very lightweight old-school analogue cars and even with the stock 150hp they are incredibly fun to drive. Squeezing an extra 50 hp out of the l24 l26 l28 engines is actually a lot easier than from modern engines that are already tuned from the factory, so more fun is on tap. If you want obscene power from a 240z, 260z, or 280z you will need to swap out l24 l26 l28. #d4a #L28 #iconicengines #L24 #L26

D4A Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a It's time for an ICONIC ENGINES episode on Toyota's rev-happy 2ZZ-GE engine. The 2zz engine started it's life in 1999, building on the base created by the 1zz-fe engine just two years before. But the engines share very little with each other. The 2zz engine is the performance variant of Toyota's zz engine series, which was made as a replacement for Toyota's very popular and successful A series of engines. The A series spawned the legendary 4age engine among others, and the 2zz can be seen as the spiritual successor to the 4age. But if we compare the 2zz-ge engine to Toyota's older performance four cylinders (2tg, 18rg, 3sge, 4age), we will see that the 2zzge is different from all of them in that it has an all aluminum engine block, compared to cast iron blocks found in the older engines. Cast iron blocks are great and almost never go wrong, and Toyota as a car manufacturer usually prefers simple, beefy, high-mileage resistant engineering solutions that are very unlikely to develop faults. Cast iron blocks are one such piece of engineering and this explain why Toyota was slower to abandon them in its four cylinders compared to many other manufacturers. But times were changing, and Toyota had to make a more modern, lighter engine, and so the zz series of engines got an all aluminum engine block. The 2zz came during an interesting time for Toyota, but one that can be described as somewhat sad for car enthusiasts. The mr2 mk2 (sw20) had turned from a turbo powered monster into a, perhaps better handling, but much tamer naturally aspirated car that was the mr2 spyder (zzw30), the legendary supra was also almost finished with it's production. The Prius hit the market in 1997 and over the next decade on so Toyota would be focused on developing the hybrid system and making it's cars cleaner and more fuel efficient. But Toyota wasn't ready to give up the sports car just yet and the 2zz engine really reflects the spirit of the times. It was fuel efficient and clean but also really sporty, fun and rev-happy. So what about the specs? When looking at the specs of the 2zz engine it's very useful to look at it side by side with the 1zz engine. The differences between the 2zz and the 1zz reveal why the 2zz performs better, makes more power and revs higher. Although, upon first glance, the engines look very similar they are in fact very different, down to their bore and stroke. The 2zz has more bore and less stroke. This means it's better at revving higher, and also has more space for bigger valves so it breathes better and makes more power. This also means key parts between the 2zz and the 1zz are not interchangeable. You definitely can't take a 2zz head and put it on a 1zz block. The differences continue in the rest of the engine. The 2zz has very light internals, forged connecting rods and light cast pistons with a special low-friction coating. The variable valve timing between the 2zz and the 1zz is also different. The 1zz engine gets a more modest version that, in essence, only affects cam phasing. The 2zzge vvtl-i system is much more advanced and affects both cam light and cam duration on both the intake and the exhaust cam. Incidentally, the 2zz was Toyota's first engine to receive the vvtl-i version of Toyota's variable valve timing technology. All of the differences between the 1zz and 2zz add up and the 2zz makes on average 50hp more than the 1zz depending on the particular engine, vehicle, market and tune. The 2zz-ge highest factory power output amounts to 190hp, while the 1zz highest stock power output is 130hp. So the 2zz makes more power than the 1zz, it also makes more torque but only marginally more, with the difference in torque being less than 10 Nm. This is of course due to the fact that the 1zz has more stroke than the 2zz engine. So what are your options when tuning a 2zz-ge engines? Well there's a bit of sad news on that one as the 2zz-ge doesn't really have a stage one. The 2zz is sort of already "tuned" from the factory and your typical bolt on mods won't really do anything, and will often result in a power loss rather than a power gain. That being said, the 2zz is a great swap into older, lighter, more analogue Toyotas. The Toyota Celica, Matrix and the Corolla were already getting heavy by the end of the 90s. A 2zz in an aw11, ae82, ae92 or even an ae86 makes sense. It's lighter yet more powerful than the older engines so the results are usually very fun! the 2zz is also a super popular swap into the mr2 spyder. But how do you get more power from the 2zz? Do what lotus did and bolt a supercharger onto it. Supercharger kits are still available for the 2zz. What about a 2zz turbo? You can do that too, but you will need new internals or a brand new engine as step one, and turboing some of the older Toyota engines is actually a bit easier. #d4a #2zzge #iconicengines

D4A Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Check out Jafromobile: https://www.youtube.com/user/Jafromobile He has a lot of really useful/detailed/specific 4G63 content! Ok people it's time for an ICONIC ENGINES video of Mitsubishi's glorious 4G63! The 4G63 is such a great design that people didn't get sick of it was the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution for 9 generations. When the Lancer X got a brand new, more modern engine, everybody was totally dissapointed. They still wanted the 4G63. They didn't get sick of it after 9 generations. But if your think that the 4G63 started it's life with the Lancer EVO you are wrong! The first car that had a 4G63 in it was a Mitsubishi Lancer, but it wasn't an evo. The first car that had a genuine 2 liter turbo 4G63 in it was the Mitsubishi Lancer EX 2000 turbo from 1981. This thing was SOHC but still a genuine 4G63 that kicked ass even back in the early 80s. It made more power than it's competitors (lancer ex 2000 turbo - 170hp, bmw 323i - 143hp) and already had a lot of the evo recipe in it. It wasn't AWD but it was a boring looking four door sedan that would kick sports car butt. Later on the 4G63 both in turbo and naturally aspirated form would appear in a real laundry list of different cars and it's still being manufactured today. So, how much HP does a 4g63 have? Well, as you can see this thing has been in production for more almost 39 years (yet it's still being installed in some Chinese vesicles today, although these are of questionable design) so there have been many different versions and revision of the 4g63. The 4g63 in factory form it makes anywhere from 170 to 400+ horsepower hp. The 400+ hp figure belongs to the Ralliart FQ400 special edition Lancer evos. But 250-300 hp is the usual factory figure for a modern 4G63. So what about the specs? The specs are what makes any engine great and the 4g63 has all the right ones for making power. A cast iron block with closed deck design ensures the 4g63 can take all the boost you can come up with. Beefy internals? Check! Forged steel fully counterweight crankshaft? Check! Good cylinder head design? Check! The 4g63 has it all. Another interesting feature of the 4g63 is that Mitsubishi didn't just want to impress people with the power, it wanted to the impress people with how smooth and quiet the 4g63 is at idle and how it doesn't transmit the noise vibration and harshness that a typical 4 cylinder does. So inside the block of the 4g63 we can find some balancing shafts and in the cylinder head some hydraulic valve lifters. Both of these are ok for street applications but for high horsepower builds both will likely need to go away. The 4g63 engine has been around for a very long time so many amazing builds have appeared over the years. Since its plentiful and popular it also means that the 4G63 has an amazing aftermarket and you can build an amazing engine. 4g63 stock internals are safe and reliable up to about 400 hp and a bit more if you do your tuning right. People even build up the stock internals and turbo to 500hp but I'm pretty sure reliability and driveability starts falling off right around 500 hp. Beyond 500 hp on a 4g63 you are likely looking at forged rods and pistons, camshafts, cam gears, turbo manifolds, forged internals, and a lot more. The stock crank can stay even at 700-800hp. Another useful thing Mitsubishi owners or anyone building a 4g63 (swap perhaps?) can make use of is the 4G64 engine. It's basically a 2.4 version of the 4g6 family of engines. The 4g64 is super plentiful and widely available and is an easy and cheap way to get more torque and increase the displacement of your 4g63/ 4g64 build. All in all the 4g63 is definitely deserving of the ICONIC engine status! It's well made, reliable, well-designed, has a rich racing history, it's capable, has amazing torque and on top of that it has a great aftermarket and astounding power potential! 1g vs 2g 4g63 differences: https://my.prostreetonline.com/2014/09/30/differences-1g-2g-dsm/ #d4a #4g63 #iconicengines

Weldspeed Billet 4AGE intake: https://www.weldspeed.com.au/product-page/4age-intake-manifold-big-small-port A MASSIVE THANK YOU to Bill Sherwood (Billzilla) for maintaining his 4age website that's a true wealth of information on the 4AGE engine. Check out MRP for awesome 4AGE performance parts and builds: https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/ D4A Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a The 4AGE started it's life in 1983 and was produced until 1998. What does 4AGE even stand for? 4AGE is the 4th revision of the A block. G is a performance cylinder head and E is electronic fuel injection. When it comes to the 4A family, the first members were far less impressive and performance oriented than the 4age, the first engine being the 4ac, which was a single overhead cam 8v carbureted engine outputing around 70hp. The next evolution of the 4A family was the 4AFE which introduced double overhead cams and fuel injection. After this came the 4AGE, which was the performance option for the Corolla, Celica, MR2 and other mid-sized Toyota vechicles of the time. Interestingly enough you can also find the 4age in the GEO Prizm and Chevrolet Nova, which are basically rebadged versions of the Corolla AE92. When it comes to the power output the 4age started with 112hp in it's first generation and ended with 165 hp in it's last generation. The engine the 4age shares a lot with is the Cosworth BDA. BDA being belt drive a type. It was one of the first racing and production engines to have both cam gears driven by a rubber toothed belt. The 4age was also toyota's first engine to have both cam gears driven by a rubber toothed belt. This was a racing engine designed in 1969 by Mike Hall for homologation purposes for the Ford Escort RS1600. The original BDA spawned numerous different variants which were very succesfull in many different fields of motorsport. The 4age has a bore of 81mm and a stroke of 77mm. The bda has an identical bore and stroke. From this we can see that the 4age is a very oversquare design which means it's an engine capable of handling high rpms pretty well. A large bore allows for some nice large valves and in stock form the 16v 4age comes with some healthy 29.5mm intake & 25.5mm exhaust valves. These are also of an identical size on the Cosworth bda. So the 4age is basically a mass produced version of the cosworth bda. What about tuning? The 4age has been around for more than 30 years so everything posible that you can imagine being done to it, has been done. Everything from Crazy high revving formula atlantic builds to turbos, to twin charging to carburetor conversions to whatever else you can think of..Somebody likely already tried it. The 4age is a good enggine, and while there are engines from the same era that may have an edge over it when it comes to engineering and performance, the 4age is capable, has undenieable charm, and is perhaps one of the best sounding 4 cylinder engines ever made. The 4age engine has a total of 5 generations and you can sort of tell them apart by the valve covers. But that is honestly very unreliable and you can't really tell what's inside a 4age until you actually take it apart. Remember how we said the A series engine had more generations after the 4a? An important one is the 7afe engine. It was a 1.8 liter with the same bore as the 4age but a larger 85.5mm stroke, and good way of getting more torque from the 4age, both in NA and forced induction modes is to take the 7afe a block and 4agehead and build something called a 7age. However there is also something called a 9age. This is a total frankenstein of an engine that boosts the 4ages displacement to 1.9 liters and is capable of serious power, especially if you go for the 20v valve cylinder head, which has a narrover intake angle compared to the 16v. 9age you need parts from 4age (16v/20v), 7afe block, 1zz/2zz crank, 2zz connecting rods (con-rods) and custom pistons. For this guide I'm going to assume you all ready have a stock 4age 16v and we will start building from there. If you're interested in this engine, a company called MRP in New Zealand is basically a sort of a 4age mecca and they can build one for you. It will not be cheap but it will be insane. MRP can also build basically any kind of 4age for any kind of application you need. So to sum it up, the 4age is a good, small reliable and capable engine. It's short and it's a great swap into older toyotas and any other light cars! It is outdated and squeezing very large power figures from the 4age will take a lot more effort and money than getting those same power figures from more modern iconic engines such as the 2zz or Honda's K series for example. That being said it's novice frienldy engine that is still relatively plentiful and it's fun and easy to tune and work with. The sound it makes is the icing on the cake. D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program #d4a #4age #iconicengines

D4A Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a After five years I can finally call my toyota mr2 project car finished. So I decided to make this video and share all the valuable lessons I learned along the way during my project car build. The lesson is really simple and this video doesn't pretend to rationalize project cars. Project cars are something you do with your heart, and not your brain. It's really not about the plan, the budget, the time frame, the tools or the skills. It's all about willpower. My toyota mr2 mk1 build details 1987 Toyota MR2 mk1 1.6 16v 4age engine converted to run on motorcycle carburetors (CBR 600 37mm carbs) Catcams mild cam /hks valve springs/ t3 cam gears/ smallport pistons/ head ported by me /mrp cambelt stabiliser, t3 lightweight pulleys /Nodiz pro standalone ignition Engine assembly video: https://youtu.be/daqmPnEYMfk dyno video: https://youtu.be/uRZUJJwNQvA Koni yellow shocks /Eibach pro kit springs/ Prothane total kit/ techno toy tuning rear toe links Fully rebuild stock brakes/ goodridge steel brake lines AEM wideband gauge If you're interested in the toyota mr2 as a project car I have to say that it makes a great first project car. It's a great project car for begginners or even teenagers (drive safely) because its analogue and simple to work on. It's a relatively cheap project car too and can fit in the category of project cars under 5k, if you're willing to shop around. It's not as popular as classics like the mazda mx-5 (miata) or the honda civic. But aftermarket parts support is relatively decent, especially for the 4age engine and it makes one of the best project car builds out there. #d4a #projectcars #projectcar driving 4 answers is part of the amazon associated program

Here's a short simple tutorial showing you the steps needed to remove a motorcycle engine from the frame. The procedure shown in the video is on a 1985 Kawasaki GPZ 750R/ 900R. But this procedure is largely the same for almost any bike and differs in that it is slightly simpler for air-cooled and single-cylinder motorcycles. The difference is also that v-twin engines usually have to come out the side of the frame while four cylinders usually drop straight down. The steps are: 1. Remove fairings (if any), tank, seat and battery 2. Disconnect coolant hoses and drain the coolant (skip this step if removing the engine from an air cooled motorcycle, obviously). 3. Disconnect and remove the radiator. Be careful of possible ground connections on the radiator, so you don't rip the wires apart. 4. Drain the oil from the engine and the oil cooler 5. Disconnect oil cooler hoses and remove the oil cooler as well as any sub-frames used to house the oil cooler and radiator 6. Unbolt and remove the headers and exhaust(s) 7. Depending on the motorcycle you may need to remove the footrests as well 8. Remove the carburetors (throttle bodies and injectors) and the airbox. Carefully disconnect choke and throttle cable ferrules. 9. Remove alternator, starter, ground and any other electrical connections to the engine 10. Disconnect the clutch hose 11. Remove the chain (belt) cover and front sprocket cover 12. Unstake the nut and remove the front sprocket (if possible) 13. If removing the front sprocket doesn't work, remove the rear axle and wheel and remove the chain. 14. Locate all bolts that hold the engine to the frame 15. Support the engine from below using car jacks or similar 16. Wiggle the engine around and get it out of the frame 17. Pat yourself on the back As you can see removing a motorcycle engine from the frame is a relatively simple DIY job. It can be time-consuming and tedious, but it requires no specialized tools and can be done by almost any willing motorcycle DIY enthusiast. #d4a #motorcycle #diy

D4A Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a The driving season is over and it's time to kick things of with a brand new series on the d4a channel - Retro kawasaki restoration! This is the very first episode, and it the engine of the Kawasaki GPZ 750r (GPZ 900r) come out! Let me know what you think about it in the comments! #d4a #gpz900r #gpz750r

Here's one to end the driving season. It's a compilation of all the drive-by shots of the bike carb 4age I made over the course of 2019. Let's listen to the 4age itbs scream. Looking back at 2019, I can call this year a success. Finally a year that didn't with "I'll get to drive my toyota mr2 mk1 next year". This year I actually got to drive it and enjoy my aw11 to the fullest. I usee absolutely every opportunity I could to drive it and even managed to make a few decent videos out of it. The bike carb 4age rebuild was a success. And even though many warned me against carburetors, I went my gut feeling, and it paid off. The engine is pure joy! The intake noise the itbs make when you start pushing the aw11 are one of the greatest soundtracks a petrolhead could ask for. This time around the suspension and the brakes were overhauled too, so driving was a complete experience. Having experienced the car on all types of roads I finally felt qualified to make the ultimate review of the toyota mr2 mk1 aw11, being a five year owner and all :) If you're interested in the exhaust specs, they're a joke, but the 4age sound is so nice I think it would sound good with any exhaust setup. The exhaust manifold is stock and the muffler is a chambered vw that goes on caddys and golfs from the 90s. #d4a #4age #itbs driving 4 answers is part of the amazon associated program

D4A Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Toyota Mr2 mk1 short buying guide. -Thing number 1 is rust. The rocker panels and wheel arches are the first to go. Rust loves to hide under the side skirts right here too. But it can be in the front trunk, in the engine bay and in numerous other places. Look hard. -If the engine is completely stock does it idle well when the engine is completely cold and when it warms up. The stock idle air control valve system is stupid and is dead on almost all cars. -Does it maintain a stable idle. Bleeding the coolant properly on these can be tricky and when done incorrectly will result in a bouncy idle. -Leaks from the radiator and coolant piping aren't uncommon. Oil leaks also aren't uncommon but are mostly easy to fix. -Does it keep going straight when you let go of the steering wheel? Is the steering feel vague? -Most of the transmissions have worn out synchros. Check if shifting in and out of all gears is smooth. -The early ones had fifth gear pop out. Go out on the highway. Accelerate in fifth gear. Does the transmission stay in fifth gear? -Does the engine pull hard and accelerate normally? Today we're doing the ultimate review of a toyota mr2 mk1 (AW11 chassis code). So let's start with first impressions. The exterior, because that's the first thing you'll see and likely the thing you fell in love with if you actually like the mr2. I personally love the exterior of this car. It's unique in a good sense and it's probably the most 80s design ever. This is what they imagined the future would look like back in the 80s, but they couldn't wait for the future, so they made it right away. It kind of looks like the result of unprotected sex between a jet fighter and a car. Of course it has pop up headlights too. The absolute quintessential feature of every wedge car. So if you're into 80s retro stuff and small sporty compact two seaters this thing will hit bull's-eye like nothing else for you. However, if we step inside the mr2 aw11 there is a pleasant surprise to be had. I'm 6 foot 2 and somehow i never feel even a tiny bit cramped in this car. my usual driving position even leaves room for the seat to be pushed back a bit more. I've sat in the mx-5 NA and my usual driving position ends up being a lot closer to the very end of the seat's adjustment range. What's the Toyota MR2 m1 like to drive? You probably already knew this, but the MR2 is mid-engined. This means the engine isn't in front of you like in almost every other car, but it's behind you for even more jet fighter points. I'm not gonna explain in this video why the engine behind you thing is superior for driving dynamics, but the fact that almost all of the greatest supercars ever have the engine behind the driver should provide enough of an argument to that statement. So what's it like to drive? The mr2 mk1 is likely one of the most rewarding drives you will have. When it comes to pure driving joy it can stand toe to toe with practically any car. Is the Toyota MR2 mk1 fast? Well yes and no. 90% of the mr2s out there were delivered with a naturally aspirated 1.6 16 valve 4age engine with 116 or 124 hp. It gets destroyed by modern hot hatches on the straights. In the corners where power plays a less important road the mr2 is very difficult to embarrass and is a fast car. A supercharged mr2 mk1 with 145 hp and is noticeably quicker. If you want more power you have several options. You can try tuning the stock 4age 16v in it's naturally aspirated form. This is fun, but making more than 170-180 horsepower is very hard and expensive. If you want bigger power you can turbo your 4age or you can do a swap. The most common swap is a 2.0 3SGTE engine from a Toyota MR2 mk2 S2W20 turbo. This turns the Toyota MR2 mk1 into an mk1.5 and a very capable and fast car. Make sure your suspension and brakes can keep up with the new power. If you want to race the mr2 mk1 you should know that in the right hands it has great potential, but in the amateur racing world it is almost often outdone by cars like the NA mx5 or even a properly prepped Honda civic or CRX. Mostly, because these cars are easier to drive. Is the Toyota MR2 mk1 aw11 reliable? Well it's a Toyota so it's got to be reliable right? Well yes, it's a simple over engineered Toyota from the 80s which means it's much more reliable than a modern car. At least it was 10 or 20 years ago. Right now it's 30 years old and it will need love, care and money to run right. Ok, so that's reliability done. But is the Toyota MR2 practical? Well, that's something that's super easy to answer. It's not. Pappots garage: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpYAsizR_ubNZ2nigSURL_Q Other videos you might be interested in Snap oversteer: https://youtu.be/k1wxCIqW7KI My entire build in 10min: https://youtu.be/4lFE4eh2dKY 5 min bie carbs guide: https://youtu.be/YPbtXHqyh8g Fix a loose steering on the aw11: https://youtu.be/yM_Z4Vh6BHk

50k! 50k!!!! 50k guys!!! Just wanted to say THANK YOU to you all and a very special extra massive thank you to some very special people that have stood out over the years! None of this would have ever been possible without the support and motivation this channel's community has given me. Wouldn't trade it for any other community in the world. Let's go to a 100k! Here's the walkaround video in case you're interested: https://youtu.be/Y6sINUdaJTM Things to do the mr2 over winter the list: - Hydraulic hood prop (no more wood!) - Crate an intake plenum for the carbs (either something from fiberglass or carbon fiber) - Make something to divert cold air into said intake plenum - Fix parking brake - Shifter surround (rubber shifter boot or gated shifter) - Custom floor mats - Replace rear speakers - Some fun personalized stickers - Original mr2 and twin cam 16v valve stickers for the rear - Get or make a better shifter cable bushing solution - Keep ignoring that tiny leak from the radiator - Proper white tire lettering (either try again or buy something ready made) - Remove tinting from tail lights and everywhere else where it was applied - Carbon fiber eyelashes (the little things under the headlights...maybe) - Paint road rash on the sides (don't try too hard) - There was more but I can't remember #d4a #50k

Dash cover: https://www.dashdesigns.com/i-31417225-1987-toyota-mr2-dash-cover.html?ref=category:1337840 RELATED VIDEOS: Engine rebuild: https://youtu.be/daqmPnEYMfk AEM install: https://youtu.be/K-nWZcjfaos Pool ball shifter knob: https://youtu.be/i-x_Pr57GCE The Wheels: https://youtu.be/3o4HjeWUOMY The entire rebuild in 5 minutes: https://youtu.be/4lFE4eh2dKY Pure sound driving: https://youtu.be/iAbcBSl-4DM 5 minute bike carbs guide: https://youtu.be/YPbtXHqyh8g Strut rebuild: https://youtu.be/NIrSU4wPiL4 Brake caliper rebuild: https://youtu.be/wTCdVuBFBIE Muffler straight through vs chambered: https://youtu.be/FUcLwrhSE10 So here's a super detailed in-depth full walkaround and overview of my 1987 bike carb converted 4age 16v Toyota MR2 mk1 aw11. It's a honest walkaround with absolutely zero prep. I took the car out to show it to you the way it truly is and the way I use it and drive it. You get to see it all, the good and the bad. driving 4 answers is part of the amazon associates program #d4a #mr2 #4age

D4A Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a This is a pretty special video as it condenses the entire 5 year car restoration project of my Toyota MR2 into 10 minutes. It starts all the way back from when I bought my AW11 MR2 more than 5 years ago, through all the rebuilds, restoration, the highs and the lows up until today when I am finally enjoying my MR2 the way I have always imagined. All the big moments are in this car build project time lapse video, from the very first engine rebuild, to my transmission rebuild, the suspension rebuild, the brakes rebuild, the second engine rebuild with the bike carb conversion and many other key moments that defined my MR2, and me as well, and it all happens in just a bit over 10 minutes. It's a car transformation but a personal transformation going on behind the scenes as well. Why did rod knock happen the first time around? Well I sandblasted my engine block to make it look like new again and to apply an engine enamel paint onto it. I religiously washed my block afterwards, but washing an engine block after blasting is actually impossible as the blast media gets embedded in the metal and it lets go only when the engine reaches operating temperature for the first time. This is what killed my engine the first time around. Lesson learned: Do NOT sandblast your engine block. #d4a #mr2mk1 #4age #aw11 #sw20 #zzw30 #jdm #trd #ae86 #ae92 #toyota #bikecarbsoncars #touge #bikecarbconversion #cartransformation Music: Nightstop - Harrison Ford https://youtu.be/Iij7U6eE5lo Timbral - Speed of Time https://youtu.be/rUPF8FrkTWQ driving 4 answers is part of the amazon associates program

Here's a video of me enjoying my Toyota MR2 the way it's meant to be enjoyed. Driving briskly on a twisty mountain road. This is a pure sound video, without any music or any talking. Nothing but the sounds of the itbs from the bike carb 4age echoing through the mountain. D4A Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a A little explanation when it comes to the driving here. This was my first time on this mountain road, I chose it because of the scenery and I wasn't trying anything other than to have fun. The truck overtake was 100% safe, I don't have a death wish and never overtake unless I'm certain it's clear. The hairpin turn was a failure, but I put it in the video because it happened the way it did and I don't do fake content. What actually happened is that I was on throttle trying to maintain that little drift, but the wet patch at the exit of the hairpin (you can see it in the video too) caught me off guard and one wheel started spinning like crazy all of a sudden dragging me quickly into the other lane. #d4a #4age #mr2 #drive #povdrive #touge #itb #itbs #bikecarb4age #mr2mk1 #toyota #aw11 #corolla #initiald #ae86 #ae92 #ae111 #sw20 #zzw30 #fx16 #4age16v #4age20v #puresound D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

So in my last post I asked you guys where you wanted to go for our next road trip, and "amazing twisty road" won by a landslide. Boy I love democracy, especially when it turns out they way you hoped it would. The people have spoken and so amazing twisty road is where we are taking the bike carb aw11 (toyota mr2 mk1) in this video. But we're turning this whole think into a little mini series that I'm going to call road hunting! And it's basically going to be about road trips with the MR2 and random fun and entertaining stuff we decide to do along the way to finding a new awesome road for driving the mr2. In this first ever episode I'm going to introduce you guys to Bosnian Coffee. Enjoy :) #d4a #bosnia #mr2mk1 #roadtrip #aw11 #sw20 #zzw30 #4age #jdm #trd #ae86 #ae92 #toyota #bikecarbsoncars #touge #bikecarbconversion #bosniancoffee #coffee D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

Timecodes: 0:26 - why oil leaks happen? 3:50 - how to find an oil leak Common oil leak sources 7:47 - Rear main seal 9:28 - Valve cover gasket 10:30 - Oil pan gasket 12:03 - Oil leak after oil change 13:09 - Timing cover gasket 14:26 - Can I drive with an oil leak 16:59 - What happened to my engine So my engine developed a sudden oil leak and I decided that it's a great opportunity to make a little car novice oriented video that covers everything about how to find and fix an oil leak on your car. We're also going to cover the most common oil leak sources on a car (rear main seal, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, oil leak after oil change, timing cover gasket, etc.) and we are going to talk about whether it's safe to drive with an oil leak? So first thing's first, why do oil leaks even happen? Well, your engine is made of many different parts and it needs oil run. Otherwise it would fail. To keep the oil inside the engine all those different parts have seals and gaskets between them. These gaskets and seals, eventually fail, just like anything else, and oil leaks past them onto the road surface below your engine. In order to stop the engine leak you need to replace the faulty seal or gasket. If you are tempted to use one of those "magic" oil stop leak things that come in a bottle, please don't. That's not a proper way to fix an oil leak. They can harm your engine and cause leaks in other places and are only a temporary fix. How do you find an oil leak? Well there's a little trick that I like to use to make sure that an engine is actually leaking oil and not just burning oil. The trick is to get a big piece of cardboard and put it under your engine and let your engine run. You then look for oil drops on the cardboard. This can not only confirm whether you have an oil leak or not but it can also help you determine the location of an oil leak on your engine. Once you have a suspected oil leak area, clean that area well, use a good light source and pinpoint the location of the oil leak. This is half of the job done already, the other half is to replace the offending gasket and stop the oil leak. Depending on the kind of car you have and the location of the oil leak this can be an easy diy job or it can be something that will need professional attention. Common oil leak sources 1. Rear main seal Your rear main seal is located between your engine and transmission and seals the end of your crankshaft preventing oil from escaping the crankcase. The rear main oil seal is not expensive itself (5-50$) but the labor involved in replacing it is usually much more expensive because the entire transmission or the transmission and engine combo need to be removed in order to replace the rear main oil seal. Oil leaks from the rear main oil seal are usually small and are more common on high mileage engines. 2. Valve cover gasket The valve cover gasket is another common oil leak location but this one is usually easy to fix (unless you have a boxer engine). The valve covers sit on top of your engine and are usually easily accessible and replaceable on most engines. 3. Oil pan gasket Leaks from the oil pan are also relatively common and the leak usually occurs at the oil pan gasket which is sandwiched between the oil pan and the engine block. Replacing the oil pan gasket can be an easy diy job or a very complicated and time consuming job depending on the make and model of the car. In front wheel drive cars with large displacement transversely mounted engines, replacing the oil pan can be very difficult and can even require removing the entire front sub-frame. 4. Oil leak after oil change This one happens more often than you think and people regularly report seeing oil leaks after regular maintenance/ service / oil and oil filter change. If this is your case than you can only really suspect the three things that get touched during a regular oil and oil filter change and service and those are the oil pan (oil sump) bolt, the oil filter itself and the oil filler cap. Usually the culprit is the oil drain bolt on the oil pan that sometimes doesn't get tightened properly at a workshop or gets the wrong kind of washer on it causing an oil leak. 5. Timing cover gasket An oil leak from a timing cover gasket is possible only on engines with a timing chain and not on engines with a timing belt. Depending on the placement of your engine (transverse or longitudinal) this can be an easy or a difficult task. Is it safe to drive with an oil leak? If it's a small oil and your engine has enough oil in it than it's safe to keep driving until you reach somewhere when you can properly fix the oil leak. If the oil leak is big and your engine is loosing oil quickly than it's best to stop and get your car towed. #d4a #oilleak #diy #mechanic #oilleakfix #gasket #rearmainseal #valvecover #mr2 #4age #aw11 driving 4 answers is part of the amazon associates program

This is barely relevant but a reference nonetheless. I managed a 0-100 km/h of about 8.7 to 8.8 which is pretty much the same as stock. Considering the facts that I have 15 inch 195 tires, the pop ups were up, my start was horrible and that this stretch of the road isn't perfectly flat, it's pretty good and I think with the pop ups down and a better start and a perfectly flat road I could do low 8s or even high 7s. This stretch of highway is the best I could find because my country is all hills and the entire highway is full of curves and goes up and down all the time. Up to about 160 km/h (100mph) it actually goes a tiny bit uphill and then goes a bit downhill from 160 km/h to 200 km/h (125mph). So I think the car is actually a bit faster to 160 and a bit slower from 160 to 200 than you can see in the video. But at least I can get here again easily so it's repeatable and I can test future changes safely. #d4a #zerotosixty #bikecarb4age mr2mk1 #4age #jdm #trd #ae86 #ae92 #toyota #bikecarbsoncars #touge #bikecarbconversion #aw11 #zerotoahundred D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

D4A Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Snap oversteer. It's probably one of the first thing that comes to mind for many when they think Toyota MR2 or even any mid-engined car (corvette c8, ferrari, lotus, etc.). But how bad is it really? Are you gonna die after two seconds like the memes want you to think? Well, today we're going to test it out in the real world, on a big empty parking lot to see just how bad is the snap oversteer in an mr2, when, why and how it happens and what can you do to fix it and recover from it. Before that we are going to talk a bit about the theory behind snap oversteer. So why does snap oversteer even happen? It happens because of something called weight transfer. Mid-engined cars are great at straight line acceleration and exiting corners fast because weight is transfered towards the rear of the car in those situation. The engine and transmission are the single largest fixed point of concentrated weight in a car, and in a mid-engined car they are located in the middle of the car. When a mid-engined car such as the Toyota mr2 accelerates the weight distribution towards the rear helps provide additional traction to the rear driven wheels. The engine's weight further amplifies that effect. However, when an inexperienced driver enters a corner too fast in a mid-engined car and suddenly releases the throttle in an attempt to decelerate, snap oversteer happens. It is also called lift off oversteer because it occurs in a sudden throttle lift off scenario. As a mid-engined car decelerates weight is transferred away from the rear wheels, they loose traction and the rear of the car wants to break loose. As it does so it "snaps" and the car makes a sudden uncontrolled full spin. This happens because the mass is concentrated in the middle in a mid-engined car. A good analogy here is a hammer with the hammer head in the middle of the shaft, it will be much more prone to spinning than a hammer with the head at either of its ends. So how to fix it and recover from snap oversteer? The first part of the equation is the mechanical condition of a mid-engined car. Is the suspension old, in poor condition and unserviced? Are the tires worn out? Has an alignment been done? These can greatly contribute to increased chances for snap oversteer. The other part of the equation is driver experience. As you can see in the video it is fairly easy to recover from snap oversteer in a mechanically sound car if the driver has a bit of experience and does not panic or freeze up. You recover from snap oversteer like you would from any kind of oversteer, and that is by steering in the other direction. Do not attempt to brake to stop the oversteer. It is also very important not to over-correct. If speeds aren't excessive you can fix snap oversteer by simply letting go of the throttle and the car will restore direction of travel on its own. The key is not to panic or freeze up and try to forcefully hold the steering wheel in place. It is of course important to react quickly because the time frame is short, if you react too late you will likely be unable to continue smoothly in the desired direction of travel, but you can still prevent the car from spinning around completely and minimize the chances of accident and/or injury. So to sum it up. Make sure your mid engined car is in a sound mechanical condition, have good tires and don't panic. The best way to prevent snap oversteer is to experience it in a safe environment. Take your mid-engined car and experiment on a large empty space (parking lot etc.) Try to intentionally create snap oversteer by releasing throttle during cornering. This will prepare you for it and after a bit of practice it will become second nature for you to react on time and recover from snap oversteer. Once you master that you can even try drifting your toyota mr2, it can do that too. Now stop reading this and go watch the damn video :) D4A shop: https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ Credits: STUPID BACKGROUND MUSIC IN THE BEGINNING OF THE VIDEO: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fCe-ARWmdxs SW20 DRAG https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOsT2ldEQt0 Golf and civic racing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCXD0ZSskUw #d4a #snapoversteer #mr2 #aw11 #c8 #sw20 #zzw30 #bikecarb4age #oversteer #toyota #s2000 #drift D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

It's time for the bike carb aw11's first spirited drive on a twisty mountain road! Aw11 suspension specs: - Koni yellow shock inserts at max soft rebound on all 4 corners - Eibach pro kit springs - Prothane total kit polyurethane bushings - Techno Toy Tuning rear toe links - Rebuilt / restored to spec on everything else - Fully rebuilt stock brakes - New Toyo t1r tires 195 55 15 - Stock alignment - 15" Intra Gutmann wheels Impressions of the BMW e46 320 With some 300kg and only 20 horsepower more than the aw11 the e46 is at a disadvantage when it comes to the hp to weight ratio. That being said the aw11 is faster on the straights but not dramatically so, likely due to the massive torque of the turbo diesel. The difference was much more pronounced in the corners where the aw11 really shined. The e46 has a much more modern suspension design with a multi link setup in the rear, but it didn't seem to do much against the light weight and very nimble nature of the aw11. It's also important to mention that the bmw was weaker in the tire department with some relatively worn out rubber. The traction control was also coming on a lot and possibly hampering optimal cornering. Impressions of the bike carb aw11 I have to say that the mr2 really delivered in the handling department and I was more than impressed and very proud of myself. Contrary to most modern cars I drove, driving it hard in the corners felt really organic and safe and I was confident to push the car reasonably hard. The mid-rpm punch of the engine has proven immensely useful on a road with many tight corners, reducing the need to down shift and making corner exit a pure joy. Snap oversteer? Honestly there was none, there were a few instances of oversteer, but they were extremely gradual and easy to catch and correct early on. I noticed very little, if any, understeer. I can't say at this point whether I would feel confident pushing the car hard on long fast curves, but we will try that soon as well. I'm just getting started with this awesome little car. Thanks for watching! DISCLAIMER: I do not support reckless driving or street racing or any other sort of disobedience of traffic laws and regulations. This entire video was filmed on a private road without ever breaking the speed limit and also the entire video is CGI and advanced green screen effects. Stay safe and obey traffic laws. #d4a #povdrive #mr2 #mr2mk1 #4age #jdm #bikecarb4age #trd #ae86 #ae92 #toyota #bikecarbsoncars #touge #e46 #bmw #bikecarbconversion #320d #aw11 D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

People asked for this so here it is. I run this ignition map on 98 Octane (RON) fuel. Please do not blindly copy and paste this ignition map. If you do, please retard the ignition timing across the board and go from there. Any sort of tuning you do to your engine you do so at your own responsibility. That all being said, a few words about my bike carb 4age ignition map. It's actually divided into three zones based on throttle input. Bottom loads are for fuel economy, the middle part has the goal of providing instant torque and the top 30% of throttle opening has the obvious task of providing performance. This is a version 1.0 of my ignition map and I have made it through a lot of testing both on the street, on a real dyno and with a dyno app called perfexpert. It has been developed over time and might receive updates in the future. I highly suggest that you also develop your ignition map for your particular engine step by step until you are satisfied with it. How to setup and use Perfexpert: https://youtu.be/AHacDcIQDCs Perfexpert vs. Real dyno: https://youtu.be/Lx5238pqJak Perfexpert for android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.perfexpert&hl=en Perfexpert for IOS: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/perfexpert/id549390700 #d4a #ignitionmap #bikecarb4age #bikecarbconversion #throttlecable #bikecarbsoncars #throttle #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

D4A Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Here's a question I get asked at least once or twice a day recently, most often in my Instagram messages. It usually goes like this: "Hi, I like your videos (man/dude/bruuuh)!. I wanna do a bike carb conversion on my _____insert ancient obsolete engine here_______, but I'm confused when it comes to ________insert something simple and obvious that has been explained in the videos______________." So I try to point people to my videos, because all the info is in there, it really is, that's why I made them. But who wants to watch a 20 minute comprehensive, detailed, informative video? Many people seem to want bite sized instant simple answers to complicated questions. So when someone asks me that question above it somehow always turns into a lengthy back and forth chat with me explaining things to people individually. And while I am okay with that, and you who have been watching this channel for a while know that I make a serious effort to answer every single question I am asked, this has now reached a stage where it's simply unsustainable for me to answer all of the questions individually. So I decided to make this super simplified 5 min bike carb conversion guide / tutorial / crash course/ on installing bike carbs on your car engine. The next time someone asks me the simple question above, you're just getting a link to this video. P A R T S L I S T S S C E N A R I O 1 - STARTING WITH AN ENGINE THAT IS CARBURETED FROM THE FACTORY (SU, Weber, Solex, Dellorto, etc.) AND HAS A VACUUM ADVANCE DISTRIBUTOR. - Bike carbs (with or without TPS) - custom intake manifold for bike carbs - gasket for intake manifold - silicone couplers for carbs/manifold - hose clamps for silicone couplers - intake manifold tapped with an outlet for connection to vacuum advance distributor - intake manifold tapped for brake booster connection (if any) - vacuum hoses for connecting intake manifold to vacuum advance distributor - longer trumpets for carbs (optional for better torque) - air filter for carbs (optional, highly recommended) - adapter plate for air filter (optional, highly recommended) - throttle cable modification or new throttle cable end (ferrule) / custom throttle cable bracket (this is highly dependent on the car and carbs used). S C E N A R I O 2 - STARTING WITH AN ENGINE THAT HAS ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION FROM THE FACTORY AND USING A MAP SENSOR FOR LOAD - Bike carbs (with or without TPS) - custom intake manifold for bike carbs - gasket for intake manifold - silicone couplers for carbs/manifold - hose clamps for silicone couplers - vacuum tank (vacuum balancing bar) for balancing vacuum for a stable MAP sensor signal - intake manifold runners tapped (1 tap each runner) with four connections to a vacuum tank (vacuum balancing bar) - hoses for connecting runners to vacuum tank and vacuum tank to MAP sensor - intake manifold tapped for brake booster connection - longer trumpets for carbs (optional for better torque) - air filter for carbs (optional, highly recommended) - adapter plate for air filter (optional, highly recommended) - throttle cable modification or new throttle cable end (ferrule) / custom throttle cable bracket (this is highly dependent on the car and carbs used). S C E N A R I O 3 - STARTING WITH AN ENGINE THAT HAS ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION FROM THE FACTORY AND RUNNING A STANDALONE IGNITION ECU - Bike carbs (WITH TPS) - custom intake manifold for bike carbs - gasket for intake manifold - silicone couplers for carbs/manifold - hose clamps for silicone couplers - intake manifold tapped for brake booster connection - longer trumpets for carbs (optional for better torque) - air filter for carbs (optional, highly recommended) - adapter plate for air filter (optional, highly recommended) - throttle cable modification or new throttle cable end (ferrule) / custom throttle cable bracket (this is highly dependent on the car and carbs used). - Standalone ignition ECU (such as NODIZ pro or Megajolt or similar). You will additionally need an EDIS module if you run megajolt. - Crankshaft sensor (needed only if your car does not come with this from the factory) - Crankshaft sensor bracket (needed only if your car does not come with this from the factory) - Trigger wheel / crankshaft pulley (needed only if your car does not come with this from the factory) #d4a #bikecarbconversion #guide #tutorial #bikecarb4age #bikecarbsoncars #throttle #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

D4A Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a How to setup and use Perfexpert: https://youtu.be/AHacDcIQDCs Perfexpert for android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.perfexpert&hl=en Perfexpert for IOS: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/perfexpert/id549390700 In this video we are testing a smartphone dyno app called Perfexpert vs. a Real dyno to see whether it can produce numbers that are as accurate and consistent to a real dyno. We are also making changes on our ignition map and seeing whether Perfexpert can detect the changes in horsepower and torque and prove itself as a useful dyno tuning instrument. The dyno test with a real dyno and Perfexpert have been done on the same day under very similar weather, pressure and humidity conditions. I have done three runs with perfexpert upon sucessful calibration just like with the real dyno. After this I made changes on my ignition map which know result in a horsepower loss of exactly 8 hp and test to see whether Perfexpert can detect the same hp loss. #d4a #perfexpert #dyno #bikecarbconversion #throttlecable #bikecarb4age #bikecarbsoncars #throttle #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

So today we are going to find out the bike carb Toyota MR2 aw11 4age mpg! In other words we are going to find out exactly how much the MPG worsens when you do a bike carb conversion on a car engine! So how do we do it? We remember that road trip I took just 2 days ago? That was just the opprtunity needed to collect some valuable data on the MPG of the bike carb 4AGE. When I started out that road trip I filled up my gas tank all the way to it's maximum capacity and recorded the number on my odometer. I then went on the road trip, and drove the mr2 until I depleted about half of the gas tank. I then went to a gas station again and filled up the gas tank all the way to the top again. I recorded the number on my odometer again and I recorded the number of liters of fuel I managed to fit into my gas tank. This gave me the distance I traveled and the exact amount of fuel the engine consumed during that distance. This enabled me to calculate my fuel consumption in liters / 100 km, which I can easily turn into MPG. And here's something even better. I actually drove this same route with my stock 4age rebuild 2 years ago and recorded the MPG back then as well so we can compare the bike carb mpg vs the stock 4age mpg. Hip hip..... #d4a #bikecarb4age #mpg #bikecarbsoncars #bikecarbconversion #mr2 #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 #ignitionmap #fuel #camshaft #tuning

Time for something a little bit different! We're going on a road trip with the bike carb AW11 and we are visiting an abandoned communist air base hidden inside a rock near the beautiful city of Mostar. Also there's a lot of singing and you can win a t-shirt! Check out the fellow old school Toyota enthusiast I met on the road trip - @narisdrift Road trip from 2 years ago: https://youtu.be/tqu9_Ae2Cm8 #d4a #roadtrip #yugoslavia #bikecarbconversion #blagaj #mostar #bosnia #travel #communist #abandoned #bikecarb4age #bikecarbsoncars #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Here's the second dyno run of the bike carb 4age. This time we made non-embarrassing results. Power was decent, torque is fabulous (I could tell the whole time, didn't need a dyno for that). Unfortunately, the numbers between the individual dyno tests were a bit inconsistent so I'm taking these results with a nice salty grain of salt! For now. There is another dyno, but it's hundreds of miles away. Also, I don't care about numbers anymore honestly, the car feels great and it's a true joy to drive. #d4a #bikecarb4age #dyno #buttdyno #mr2 #bikecarbsoncars #bikecarbconversion #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 #ignitionmap #fuel #camshaft #tuning

The bike carb aw11 mr2 hits the streets to make the roars of the 4age echo through the night. Check out the man who did all the filming in this video. https://www.instagram.com/nermin_riba/ Music: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUPF8FrkTWQ #d4a #bikecarb4age #drive #nightdrive #mr2 #bikecarbsoncars #bikecarbconversion #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 #ignitionmap #fuel #camshaft #tuning #d4a #bikecarb4age #mr2 #aw1

Let's dig together through the box of memories. Italy full video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLCseb0Mm3M Greece full video (too long): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1XgTVCLeEnU

So why did the bike carb mr2 aw11 4age and other keywords made only 110hp on the dyno? Well there are a few reasons and we cover them all in the video! Also, in the coming days I will be helping around the race prep of a 700+ hp hill climb monster Lancia Delta Integrale HF. Exciting, no? There will of course be some content on that too. https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ #d4a #bikecarb4age #lanciadeltahf #bikecarbaw11 #carwash #polish #wax #cleaning #dirty #cardetailing #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

After almost 5 years of ownership it's time finally detail the AW11 and loose the barn find look! This is one of those massively long videos full of completely unedited nonsense with tiny bits of useful information scattered around randomly. So what are we doing in this vid? We start of by filling up with gas, washing an oily bucket, and then actually washing the aw11, we then we watch some YouTube, and then clay bar, then we polish and wax and we also sing and dance! You have been warned. https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ #d4a #claybar #detailing #bikecarb4age #bikecarbaw11 #carwash #polish #wax #cleaning #dirty #cardetailing #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Buy a Seicane here: https://www.seicane.com?acc=812b4ba287f5ee0bc9d43bbf5bbe87fb Discount code: D4A My head unit: https://www.seicane.com/android-hd-touchscreen-2006-2012-suzuki-sx4-with-radio-obd2-wifi-bluetooth-music-dvr-aux-obd2-steering-wheel-control-mirror-link-dvr-backup-camera-s04142?acc=812b4ba287f5ee0bc9d43bbf5bbe87fb Install and review video: https://youtu.be/ufstKA0Dd00 Video time codes: Intro: 00:00 Bluetooth: 02:15 Navigation: 05:03 Dust: 07:43 Resale value: 09:46 Passing the time: 12:05 Max potential: 14:00 Conclusion: 16:41 Ok guys so in this video it's finally time to see if the Seicane android head unit is still working after more than one year of daily usage. The short answer? Yes it's still working and there are no major bugs. The long answer is in the video and we're doing a detailed and in-depth one year update and review of how the Seicane android head unit was performing over the past year and two months. We're gonna talk about what I like and don't like, what works well and what doesn't and much more. D4A shop: http://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ #d4a #seicane #android #headunit #androidheadunit #carstereo #howto #diy #install #connect #stereo

The long awaited bike carb 4age dyno. Hold back the tears. This was just to get our bearings. #d4a #bikecarb4age #dyno #buttdyno #mr2 #bikecarbsoncars #bikecarbconversion #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 #ignitionmap #fuel #camshaft #tuning

00:00 - Intro / Real dyno vs butt dyno 04:11 - My engine / setup (what we are working with) 08:31 - Cam timing 15:56 - Fuel 23:36 - Ignition maps Here is the long awaited butt dyno tuning video. I know it's a long one but promise it's full of super useful information and great for both beginners and newbies wanting to give their engine a road tune. Road tuning or butt dynoing should definitely not be overlooked and seen as simply inferior to a real dyno. A road tune can help you save tons of money by minimizing dyno time and for street driven cars it can be just as good and sometimes even better than a dyno tune. It's also the only option if you live somewhere without an access to a dyno. The added bonus is that road tuning will teach you a lot and enable you get to know your engine better and get a real feel for all the different setups and possibilities. So in this video we are going to cover everything, from my engine setup and mods all the way to cam timing, ignition timing and fuel tuning. This will be a step by step tutorial with clear and simple instructions on how to advance or retard your cams, do pulls on the street, adjust for different air fuel ratios and build and tune your ignition map. DISCLAIMER / IMPORTANT NOTICE: This is purely an instructional videos and any and all road tuning procedures that you employ you are doing so at your own responsibility. Road tuning is SAFE as long as it's done with the proper precautions and while being completely aware and respecting traffic and road conditions and traffic laws and regulations. Be safe, respect the laws, look at your gauges and laptop only when it's 100% safe to do so and take your time to do it right. You are responsible for your and the safety of others on the road when driving. Cam timing / adjustable cam gears video: https://youtu.be/Yv4Ao7WMmS8 AEM X-series wideband: https://youtu.be/6_PWA4DhFkk AEM X-series wideband install: https://youtu.be/K-nWZcjfaos Nodiz Pro ECU: https://youtu.be/x-xNvndQi3k How to install the Nodiz Pro: https://youtu.be/FyRz7ZbyJ6o More info about my engine: https://youtu.be/8jQJsxU6Dng https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ #d4a #bikecarb4age #tuning #dyno #buttdyno #mr2 #bikecarbsoncars #bikecarbconversion #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 #ignitionmap #fuel #camshaft

This is a sound comparison (sound test) video that shows what a straight through muffler (a.k.a. glasspack muffler) versus a chambered muffler sounds on the same car. All footage was shot on the same day with the exact same cameras and microphones and at the same distance from the car as humanly possible. The sound was recorded with the engine idling and revving at a standstill, when driving by at WOT, and from inside the cabin at WOT and cruising. The car is my 1987 Toyota MR2 mk1 (aw11) with a 1.6 liter 4AGE engine converted to run on bike carbs from a Honda CBR600 F4. Not fully tuned. I have also used a decibel meter app on my phone to offer some insight into the loudness and noise difference. Being an app it's of course not 100% accurate, but it's still a reasonable reference point for loudness quantification. Some conclusions: - The difference is not dramatic, but it is noticeable - Chambered removes a lot of the nasty resonances and boominess that were really unpleasant on long drives - At WOT the loudness is the same, but the chambered sound is nicer and cleaner, more crisp. - Straight through is more aggresive of course and sounds nicer to bystanders hearing the car from a bit of distance - The chambered is much nicer and more enjoyable for driver/passenger, you get to hear more of the engine and less of the resonance and droning #d4a #exhaustsound #muffler #straightthrough #chambered #glasspack #bikecarbconversion #bikecarbsoncars #enginesound #idle #revving #4age #4age16v #mr2 #aw11 #mr2mk1 #toyota #ae86 #trueno #levin #celica #fx16 #oldschooltoyota #toyota

Buy the bracket here: https://www.driving4answers.com/product/bike-carb-conversion-throttle-cable-bracket/ So I know I promised there will be in depth bike carb tuning next but that can't be done until this car is made safe, and that's precisely what we are doing in this video. We're also eating hazelnut spread, making exhaust flames and more. Stop reading this and watch the video. #d4a #bikecarbconversion #throttlecable #bikecarb4age #bikecarbsoncars #throttle #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Progress! In this one the bike carb aw11 mr2 mk1 gets it's first wash in almost 2 years. We also do another important item on the checklist and that is to get a proper alignment so the car doesn't feel like a death trap. We also do a bunch of other random fun stuff! Enjoy https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ #d4a #bikecarb4age #alignment #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

In this video I will show you a detailed step by step process of how to replace a car radiator. Of course we will be doing it on my 1987 Toyota MR2 mk1 and we're covering everything from draining the coolant, to removing the fans and fan shroud, removing sensors, radiator hoses and installing the new radiator and refilling the system with new coolant. So if you have a leaky or otherwise faulty radiator this is the video for you. As a bonus the video also contains some instructions on how to bleed the coolant on a Toyota MR2 mk1 https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ #d4a #radiator #replace #fix #coolant #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 #flush

The bike carb 4age aw11 is finally on the road! It's still far from perfect but the bike carb 4age sings its first real notes! Before the driving there is a pretty big intro where I bring you guys up to speed on what has been going on with the aw11 recently and why it wasn't driven sooner. All the details are in the video, but to keep it short the main problem was a fauly ignition coil pack that had me running around in circles and troubleshooting the carbs and everything else instead of it (as it was brand new). The other problem was a newly discovered leaky radiator. I tried to get a guy to weld me up a new radiator locally, but that failed miserably. Somehow I managed to find and order a brand new radiator from the Netherlands, and it will arrive in week. But here's the problem I went ahead and finished the paperwork for the temporary plates so the car would be ready as soon as the newly locally welded up aluminum radiator was done. The temporary plates are the only reasonable way to get the car on the road and onto a technical inspection after which it received the regular plates and becomes road legal. My plates are valid for 2 more days, I have a leaky radiator and I have to go to have the car inspected, because once the temp plates expire you have to pay a tow truck and that costs way too much money. So the only way out is to install the leaky radiator and hope the staff doing the technical inspection don't notice it. So that's exactly what we will doing in this video. We also don't have an alignment, no front sway bar, the carbs aren't tuned but none of that will stop us. We are going all or nothing! Watch the video to see how it went. https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ #d4a #bikecarb4age #mr2 #bikecarbsoncars #bikecarbconversion #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Float valves I used (please double check fitment for your carbs): https://amzn.to/2BgaxAi Have a rough idle? Carbs running rich? You suspect the float valves? Here's a quick little how to diy video showing you how to replace the float valves on a set of motorcycle cv carburetors. The first thing we need to do before changing or replacing anything on the carbs is to drain the fuel from the float bowls. This is super easy to do and all you have to do is undo the fuel drain screws at the bottom of the float bowls and let all the fuel out. Once that is done we can flip the carburetors over so that we have good access to the float bowls. Undo the screws holding the float bowls and remove the float bowls. This will give you access to the float and the float valve. Before going any further you can inspect the operation of the float and float valves by tapping the floats a bit. The floats have to move completely freely and have to be a bit bouncy towards the end of their travel. To replace the float valves we need to remove the floats. The floats are held in place by pins. The pins need to be pulled out and then the carburetor floats can be removed. However, often there won't be enough of the pin sticking out so that you can pull it out. In this case the pin needs to be pushed out from the other side. I did this with a little screwdriver with a tip that I ground away to make it thinner and narrower so that it can fit into the pin hole. Once the pin is out simply lift the floats up. The float valve will remain in the float in it's little groove, and you can simply slide it out of the float. This is a great opportunity to inspect the float valves and sets. The part of the float valve that needs to be looked at is the float needle which is the black rubber cone at the top of the float valve and it seals against the float seat. If you see any sort of ring worn into the float needle, even a very slight one, it's time to replace the float valves. When it comes to the float seats they need to be shinny, smooth and without any damage or scoring. Once everything has been inspected the install is the exact opposite of the removal. https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ #d4a #floatvalves #bikecarbs #diy #howto #replace #change #fix #carbs #carburetors #carburetors

Need sway bar links? Why not make your own? It's easy and cheap! I decided to do this because I couldn't find replacement sway bar links readily available for my 1987 Toyota MR2. I had two options. One was to buy aftermarket adjustable sway bar links which are honestly overkill and waste of money for a car that will be driven mostly on the street. The other option was to get them from the dealership. Weirdly enough Toyota still stocks these but I was quoted an obscene price of 450 EUR (480$) for two pairs of sway bar links. So I decided to make my own. Making them is super simple and here are the steps. Step 1: Find the length of sway bar links you need. Look it up online, measure your existing ones if you have them or lift your car up and measure the distance between your sway bar and strut or wherever else they are mounted on your car. Step 2: Buy sway bar links. You can buy the cheapest links you can find, but they have to be longer than you need and the studs have to fit through your sway bar hole and your strut mounting hole. Step 3: Get an angle grinder and cut down to size. Measure twice cut once. Step 4: Thread the rod ends using a threading die. This is the trickiest part of this diy project as human hands aren't accurate and if you're not careful you can end with a uneven thread. I suggest putting the threading die in a table vise which will give you more control and better results. Step 5: Assemble the sway bar link using two nylock safety nuts and one extended nut Step 6: Install the sway bar links Step 7: You can adjust sway bar preload by making the links longer or shorter And that's pretty much all there is to it. A simple solution for having sway bar links on cars where replacements are hard or impossible to find. Before you say that this is a horrible, cheap, ghetto fix I would like to say that the forces sway bar links are exposed to are never going to be enough for this to be any sort of a safety issue or concern. I have seen amateur drift cars with these installed and they are sitting there for ages without any issues at all. That being said, these are great for street driven cars but I don't see them as a permanent solution for heavy duty applications like track, drift, autocross and so on. For heavy duty stuff it's best to invest into heavy duty equipment. https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ #d4a #swaybar #swaybarlinks #diy #howto #suspension #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

3:47 - Brief history of the Kawasaki GPZ 900r and 750r 7:25 - My story with two wheeled stuff 14:19 - How I bought the bike 24:37 - The condition of the bike and my plan with it So here it is, my first ever motorcycle, a 1985 Kawasaki GPZ 750r. First of all, don't worry the aw11 mr2 is still going to be the star of the show and the gpz will be a sort of a sidekick, or actually my entry into the world of motorcycles. And of course I'm entering it in something that is as 80s as it gets, just like the mr2 :) The gpz 750r is right now in poor condition. It's been scraped, has bent brake levers, is missing front calipers, has a shifter fixed with a hose clamp and so on. But it's a beautiful thing of the 80s and I'm gonna be cool like Tom Cruise when I ride it! The plan is to fix this thing, bring it into sound mechanical condition and make it rideable. My experience with bikes is basically zero and the only bike I ever rode is a PX125 Vespa on which I got my licence. This thing is way bigger and way faster than I can cope with but we are going to take it safe and slow and we are going to document the whole journey. From fixing it up to riding it. So this isn't going to be another motovlog, this isn't going to be another cafe racer thing, this is going to be a real life story of someone with zero experience with motorcycles getting into motorcycles, that anyone in a similar position will be able to relate to and join the adventure. #d4a #gpz750r #kawasaki #gpz900r

There's an infomercial at the end of the video.... It may or may not be useful

I'm no longer making or selling any 4AGE brackets. I am willing to sell the design for an extremely reasonable price if someone wants to continue making them. The new D4A crankshaft position sensor bracket for 4AGE and 4AGZE engines is here and it's awesome. This time around it's a universal solution that works with all 4age 16v and 4age 20v engines as well as 4agze supercharged ones. It also works for all trigger wheel placements, both in front or on the back of your crankshaft pulley. Unlike the previous version it also works with AC. Another improvement is that this time it's a ready to install package that contains all the washers, spacers, nuts and bolts. No need to source anything yourself. I have made the new version available for two different types of crankshaft position sensors. Ford style crankshaft position sensors and Honeywell GT101 type sensors. Simply select the appropriate type of bracket when buying. The install is super easy and the bracket works with all type of 4A oil pumps and oil pans. It also works when you are using an MRP oil pan spacer on your 7age conversion. It does not work with 7A oil pumps and pans. It's made by yours truly on my very own CNC and is the first ever in house designed, prototyped and manufactured part. Made by a automotive enthusiast for automotive enthusiasts around the world. #d4a #cnc #crankshaftsensor #bracket #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 #bikecarb4age #bikecarbconversion #bikecarbsoncars #triggerwheel

Speedhut gauges: https://www.speedhut.com/ Jeff's site: http://mr2.run/repairs/electrical-dash-and-running-lights-not-working/ and instagram: https://www.instagram.com/alchemist_digital/ D4A shop: https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ #d4a #speedhut #tachometer #speedhutgauges #custom #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 #bikecarb4age #bikecarbsoncars #bikecarbconversion #gauge So I gave up on getting my stock tachometer to work with my aftermarket ECU and decided to get a tachometer that works out of the box with stock ignition coils, coil on plug setups, coil packs, and even aftermarket ECUs. While looking for my new tachometer I decided to use the opportunity and find something cool and custom that will spruce up my MR2 AW11's interior. While browsing online I found Speedhut gauge and had my mind blown by the endless gauge customization options offered on their website. So I made myself a nice cup of coffee and set down experimenting with different gauge options and looks until I was happy with it. I ended up with a simple purist „racecar look“ with red numbers and a red dial on a white background. To make it truly mine a slapped a big ol' D4A logo right in the middle of it. A few weeks later the Speedhut gauge arrived at my door and boy was it awesome! It's a truly high end product that looks and feels amazing. It's a really solid well made gauge with a metal bezel. All that was left was to install it. The install is easy and requires you to source just 4 wires in your car. A power, a ground a dash lighting and a tachometer output wire. Simply solder those to the provided wiring harshness of the gauge and fire it up. The gauge works really well, the dial movement is beautifully accurate and smooth and it lights up at night in an awesome red color. Thanks for watching

Finally progress on the suspension along with probably the worst footage ever published on the d4a channel. https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ #d4a #suspension #pov #aw11 #ae86 #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Important note: It says to lube up various parts in the video with "lithium grease". The proper full term is "lithium soap based glycol grease". This is not multi-purpose grease (which can harm rubber), and you should use only grease that is specifically designed for lubing up brake components and seals. Use something like this: https://amzn.to/32OZmuq Or this: https://amzn.to/2MPoonA Here's detailed step by step guide on how to rebuild the front and rear brake calipers on a Toyota MR2 aw11. This process is largely the same for almost all brakes and can serve as a universal guide. In the video you will see how to install sliding bushings, rubber boots, cylinder seals, cylinder boots, as well as the entire parking brake mechanism on the rear brake calipers. I hope this video is helpful to anyone wanting to do a DIY brake rebuild. Rebuilding the brake calipers honestly isn't too hard and can be done with some pretty basic tools. It will restore proper brake performance, safety and also save you quite a bit of money in the process. A brake rebuild kit is a lot cheaper than remanufactured or new brake calipers. D4A shop: https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ #d4a #brakes #brakecalipers #howto #diy #rebuild #fix #brakediscs #toyota #aw11 #mr2 #mr2mk1 #ae86 #corolla #celica #fx16 #ke70

Buy them here: https://www.driving4answers.com/product-category/steering-wheels/ Cousin's garage vintage car part supply: https://www.instagram.com/cousins_garage/ This time on the D4A channel we are having some fun with steering wheels and decide which one to put in my Toyota MR2. The video is all about some really cool vintage steering wheels that are actual time capsule material and come straight from the 80s. These are true new old stock and have never been installed or used, and come courtesy of my cousin who has a knack for hunting down vintage car parts. He often finds cool vintage car parts but this batch of steering wheels was so cool that I had to share it with you guys and try to help him sell them. The steering wheels are made by Victor, a Italian steering wheel manufacturer and are pure awesomeness as they represent everything that was cool about the crazy cocaine fueled 80s car tuning era! The red steering wheels are a collection or sub-brand of Victor called Fantaluxe. There are a total of three different red ones available for sale, the smallest one called Fantaluxe Targa and the other two being thicker and of a larger diameter. Watch the video to see which one I like the most and am considering installing in my MR2. There are two more vintage steering wheels for sale and they are a Momo M38 Ghibli and a Raid Dino. Both are pre-owned but in absolutely excellent condition. #d4a #steeringwheel #80s

This time we're watching paint dry........or are we? https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/

Check out the D4A shop: https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ So today, while were waiting for my damn brake parts to arrive back from the galvanization plant we are going to answer whet are the benefits, advantages and drawbacks and we are going to answer whether a bike carb conversion is right for you. And we are going to do it with a self-assessment quiz that you can all take together with me. But before we do the quiz let's get something out of the day. Let's just very quickly talk bike carbs vs car carbs such as twin Weber or Solex carburetors. There are of course many different types of car carburetors, but in general, modern motorcycle carburetors such as my cbr600 f4 carburetors are a lot cheaper to purchase, simpler to tune as they have less jets and less adjustments, they also generally cope better with height difference and cold starts, have better mpg and are cheaper and easier to service as they have less parts and components. Question 1: Is the car you want to bike carb convert your daily driver? If it is, doing a bike carb conversion is most likely going to end up costing you too much money in the long run. Modern bike carbs might be capable of decent mpg, but it will never be as good as computer controlled fuel injection. Mr. Venturi may have a cool surname but his effect is no match for fancy pants computer circuitry. Question 2: Is your fuel injection system functioning without faults or any issues? This was a really big factor for me. Yes my car came with fuel injection from the factory, but it's a 30 year old system that I could NEVER get to run right. My stupid flap style air flow meter was often acting up and my cold start system never ran right and was unfixable. Also because my car is 30 years old and went through several previous owners, some which were cheap and kind of stupid, I had the wrong kind of distributor and the wrong throttle body for my intake manifold and a bunch of other parts takes from different 4ages that I could not get to work properly. I troubleshot the engine a million times and read the factory service manual hundreds of times and asked dozens of questions of forums...but I always had some sort of issue. The performance was weird, the idle erratic, there was always a vacuum leak or two. And this is the problem with fuel injection......when it goes wrong...it could be a lot of things. Is your throttle position sensor good? Or maybe it's the air flow meter? Or maybe it's the temperature sensor? Or maybe it's the EGR? Or maybe it's the injectors? Or maybe it's the idle air control valve? Or maybe the ECU is losing it? And then you got to test all of them because they all have similar symptoms and then you got to take apart half of your engine bay and then you replace a sensor and it's still the same. Question 3: Are you all about horsepower gains and dyno charts? If you are then the charms of carburation will be wasted on you. Bike carbs noticeably change the character of an engine...but it's unlikely that they will add any horsepower to a modern multi point injection system. They might like 5 or 10 horsepower to a 30 year old multi point fuel injection system, but you will not gain any power if you do a bike carb conversion on something built in 2007 or so. They WILL add power to engines that had single point injection or engines that used some lame old fashioned carbs. Question 4: Do you like eargasms and responsive engines? Carburetors sound better than fuel injection. You can object but I won't listen. Yes itbs come close but it's still not quite the same. Maybe it's the imperfect combustion of carbs maybe it's something else, but if you ask me they are marvelous little throaty baritones that can sing the sweetest songs of internal combustion. Question 5: Do you like fiddling with things, want to develop a 6th sense, hate laptops and enjoy time travel? Carbs are friends of gearheads. They require almost zero special tools to be maintained and tuned. They speak to the visceral side of the gearhead and will help you develop a sort of a sixth sense that will tell you when carbs are running right and when they are not. When you tune them right you will simply be able to tell and it will be a true joy. If you can relate to this experience and want it for yourself carbs can take you on an amazing journey that will put you into the shoes of laptop free generations of hotrodders and racers of old that had more fun with a screwdriver than you can imagine. Check out the video for the answer sheet and add up to see how many points you scored and whether you should do a bike carb conversion? Clocl stock footage credit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1FdjBWP_eb0&list=PLF__f6bVRtYdY1B1nDLCUkfC3LKwhYDpD #d4a #bikecarbconversion #bikecarbsoncars #bikecarb4age #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

So here comes one of the longest d4a videos ever and in it we are doing something very new and different for this channel. We are riding a bicycle through my city streets and I tell you a little bit about Sarajevo and Bosnia and Herzegovina. We are also talking about my AW11 MR2 of course and I will tell you why isn't it being driven yet and what is going on with its brake rebuild! #d4a #bih https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/

Prothane polyurethane total kit for the MR2 AW11: https://amzn.to/2OVB0eh D4A Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a In this video you can see how install a prothane polyurethane bushing total kit into my Toyota MR2 aw11 suspension. I am going to show you how to lube up the bushings, and how to install the torque arm bushings as well as the control arm bushings. We are also going to be talking about the difficulties of removing suspension components and how to remove the stock rubber bushings from your suspension. As you will see installing the polyurethane bushings is pretty easy and doesn't really require any special tools. The prothane polyurethane bushings come in two parts and are supplied with the needed super grease to lube up the bushings. The install can even be done with your bare hands but is made super easy when using a table vice. Check out the D4A shop: https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ #d4a #suspension #bushings #howto #diy #polyurethane #polyurethanebushings #prothane #aw11 #ae86 #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 #install #handling #cornering D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

Carburetor balancing tool I used in the video: https://amzn.to/31oDK6L 4age DanST engineering bike carb kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-1600-4AGE-Bike-Carburettor-Starter-Kit-AE86-Corolla-MR2-/231517105300 Ever wondered how to balance a set of bike carbs on a car engine? Today we answer that question. Balancing or synchronizing bike carbs on a car engine can have some unique challenges. First one is access and the second one is the tool you use. The most common way to balance motorcycle carburetors is to use a set of vacuum gauges or a special motorcycle carburetor balancing tool like the carbtune pro. These work great on a motorcycle, but when you convert a car engine to run on bike carbs you usually won't have anywhere to connect the hoses of those tools. I faced the same problem and found an awesome alternative. A simple little old school tool called the uni-syn. It completely eliminates engine bay access from the equation and makes balancing bike carbs on a car engine a breeze. Simply put it against the trumpet of an individual carb, watch the position of the red bobber and adjust the carburetor accordingly. Easy! Check out the D4A shop: https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ #d4a #bikecarbs #unisyn #balance #diy #howto #carburetor #carburetors #bikecarb4age #bikecarbconversion #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 #solex #weber #dellorto D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

Buy the NODIZ: https://motorsport-electronics.co.uk/products/ignition-only-systems/nodiz-pro/ NODIZ manual: https://docs.google.com/document/d/14l3k4U368bCV6dxTqGyyvnHLICMUeVkpKw04FV4KVQQ/edit Buy the 4age crankshaft position sensor bracket: https://www.driving4answers.com/product/4age-crankshaft-angle-sensor/ In this video I show you in detail how to install the NODIZ pro standalone ignition ecu. To run the NODIZ pro needs a minimum of a crankshaft position sensor, a coil pack and a trigger wheel. To have a true 3d ignition setup you will also need to provide the NODIZ with a load reference, which I have decided to do with a throttle position sensor fitted to my CBR600 bike carbs. So in the video you will see how to install the NODIZ itself, install the crankshaft position sensor, trigger wheel, coil pack, and throttle position sensor, and connect everything to each other. You will also see how to adjust the position of the trigger wheel, adjust base offset angle and calibrate the tps The NODIZ Pro™ is a state of the art microprocessor controlled digital stand-alone, fully mappable ignition controller for four, six or eight cylinder spark ignition engines. It can be used either to replace older distributor based ignition systems for more modern coil packs, or even to allow the running of carburettors on more modern engines which do not feature a distributor drive. It features in-built coil drivers, so no need for EDIS or any external modules. #d4a #nodiz #bikecarbconversion #bikecarb4age #bikecarbsoncars #nodizpro #howto #install #diy #ecu #ignitionecu #motorsportelectronics #mr2 #mr2mk1 #4age #4age16v #4agebigport #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

https://technotoytuning.com/ https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/aw11/toe-links-aw11-mr2 Check out the D4A shop too: https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ So it's finally time to dig back into the suspension of my Toyota MR2 mk1 aw11! We're starting off with a set of rear toe links made by techno toy tuning. The stock rear toe links in my aw11 have been frozen solid and are completely useless when it comes to adjusting the toe on my rear wheels. The techno toy tuning toe links are much beefier and super stiff which means they can handle racing, rallying, drifting or anything else you can throw at them. They have no rubber and have all steel precision rod ends which are also Teflon lined for a self lubricating effect and reduced noise. They will probably outlast most MR2s out there. They are also right and left threaded which means you don't have to unbolt them from the chassis and rear wheel knuckle in order to adjust the toe. The rear wheel knuckle does need to be drilled to fit these, but they come with the needed drill bit which is convenient. The t3 toe links also feature tapered stainless steel spacers for greater deflection. I don't know what deflection on toe links really is but I bet it's something good. Stay tuned for an install video of these and more content once I start driving my mr2 and tuning the suspension. #d4a #technotoytuning #toelinks #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 #suspension

Buy the t-shirt - https://www.driving4answers.com/product/d4a-t-shirt/

How to participate: 1. Watch the video and pick the items you want. A single person can ask for a maximum of 2 items. 2. Send an email to [email protected] 3. In the email there has to be the following: - A picture of your project car/ engine, etc. with a piece of paper that has "give me parts d4a" hand written on it - One sentence minimum explaining why you need the parts - Your full address - You can be creative and send anything else you want as I will make a winner announcement video. 4. I will respond back with the shipping amount you need to pay for the parts you want (if shipping isn't free). 5. If you agree to the shipping amount and pay the shipping (if it's not free) I will send you the parts! 6. By sending an email and participating you acknowledge that I can share the picture and text you sent in in my winner announcement video on the 26th of July (Thursday) (No private info like name, address, email will be shared just the interesting stuff.) Giveaway closes at 11:00 a.m. GMT - 26th of July 2018

I forgot to put it in the video. Sorry. Big giveaway is next Sunday at 4:00 p.m. GMT time. Let's not die from carbon monoxide in the garage! D4A shop: https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/

Throttle cable adapter drawing: https://www.driving4answers.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/4age-bike-carb-throttle-cable-adapter.png D4A shop: https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ Today's video is for all my bike car converters out there and its aim is to make it easier to adapt your car+s stock throttle cable to work with your bike carbs. Intro music: Kiss by Escape #d4a #bikecarb4age #bikecarbconversion

For a bit of a change of pace today we won't be talking about bike carbs, today we will be talking about wheels! The video is long but I promise there is some fun stuff scattered around the 25 minutes. Also, look out for the huge giveaway coming up soon! #d4a #wheels #oldschool #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 Also also, let me know what you think about the less editing and the wheel center cap debate. Stay cool, Yours truly, D4A Check out the D4A shop: https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/

Honda CBR600 f4 carburetor bolt upgrade kit: https://www.driving4answers.com/product/honda-cbr600-f4-carburetor-bolt-upgrade-kit/ D4A shop: https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ To properly clean our carburetors we need to remove - Our trumpets / velocity stacks - Throttle slide, needle and diaphragm assembly - Our main jets, needle jet holders (emulsion tubes) and pilot jets - Our pilot screws - Air cut off valves - Choke valves To remove all this we are going to need to separate the carburetors Before we start removing things we need to freest drain the fuel using the little fuel drain screws at the bottom of the float bowls. Attach a hose to the drain and drain away the fuel. This will make the removal easier and avoid any fuel spilling around. The first thing I usually remove are the top covers. Underneath them are the throttle slides, needles springs and diaphragms.After that you can remove the float bowl covers. These are also held in by three bolts each and are easy to remove. Next up we are going to remove the velocity stacks. Also, easy. just a bunch of bolts to be unscrwed. After that we remove all our choke valves. We have a total of 4 on the CBR600 carbs and the bracket which activates them is held in by two bolts. Once the bracket and return springs are off its time to remove the choke valves themselves. You can easily do this with a simple wrench. Now we are going to start to separate the carbs. To do this we need to remove the nuts which are at the ends of the two long rods that hold the carbs together. Once the nuts are off you can slide out the rods and separate the carbs. The carbs often won't come apart that easily and might need a bit of help. Be gentle here. Once you have separated the carbs, mark which one is which so you don't mix them up. After this we are going to remove our pilot screws, main jets, our pilot jets and our needle jet holders (emulsion tubes). Now that the carbs have been separated we also have access and can remove all four of the air cut off valves. Clogged pilot jets are the number one reason for a no start condition on a carbureted engine. In the video you can see a clogged pilot jet and a clean one. As well as a side by side video of one that's a about to get clogged and a clean one. Clogged pilot jets mean that not enough fuel will be getting into the combustion chamber and the engine won't start, or will run poorly in case the internal diameter of the jet has been reduced by contaminants. After you have removed everything and taken it apart you can clean the carbs. I like to spray everything and every orifice with carb cleaner and then blow it all out with a lot of compressed air. If needed soak all the bits in carb cleaner overnight. Also inspect everything for damage or unusual wear and replace as needed. Inspect all the gaskets and replace as needed. I like to give all the rubber gaskets and o rings some silicone spray to refresh them and make sure the rubber stays nice and flexible. After that put everything back in its place and reinstall. After a cleaning procedure that is this detailed you will need to readjust your pilot screws and balance the carburetors. #d4a #clean #carburetors #howto #diy #cbr600f4 #cbr600 #cvcarbs #bikecarbs

Distributor rebuild kit: http://www.kbox.ca/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=34 Don't want to rebuild it? Here's a brand new one: https://amzn.to/2prglUY Please double check fitment with your 4AGE powered car first :) Got rid of the distributor in your 4age engine? Seal up the hole with the D4A distributor delete: https://www.driving4answers.com/product/4age-4agze-distributor-hole-plug-distributor-delete/ To rebuild a distributor we are going to need a distributor, obviously, a distributor rebuild kit and some tools. The first thing we are going to do is to remove the little gear at the end of the distributor shaft. It's held in by a pin which is flared at its ends. The easiest way to remove the pin is to place the distributor in a vice, punch a little pilot hole and then basically drill away the flared part of the pin. After this you can punch out the pin. The pin has been in there for a long time so it might need some persuasion to be punched out. Heating it up a bit and spraying penetrant helped in my case Before you remove the gear make sure to make some marks so you know which you to re-install it. The gear is easily removed with a gear puller. Once the gear is removed, remove the distributor cap, heat shield, if you have one, and the rotor. You will then have access to the two tabs which hold down the distributor shaft. The tabs are held in place with Philips head screws. Unscrew the bolts and retrieve the tabs by using some needle nose pliers. Once the tabs have been removed you can get the shaft out. Once the shaft is out you can replace the old inner seal with a new one from your rebuild kit. Remove the old seal using needle nose pliers and clean up the area where the seal sits. Oil up the new seal and install it using a socket that is just slightly smaller than the seal. After this you can replace the bearing on the distributor shaft. The first thing you need to do is measure the exact distance between the bearing and the trigger. Write down the measurement. This will ensure the new bearing is reinstalled in the exact same position as the old one. Before removing the bearing I like to sand the shaft with some very fine grit sandpaper. To remove the bearing, place the shaft in a vice and remove the bearing using a gear puller. You can also use the opportunity to remove the rust from the trigger and the rest of the shaft. You can reinstall the new bearing by using the gear puller once again. Its also a good idea to use a washer to protect the new bearing when installing it. Once installed don't forget to confirm that the new bearing is in the same position as the old one. After this you can reinstall the shaft into the distributor hole. Lube up your shaft and simply slide it into the hole. Next up reinstall the gear by using a new pin from the kit. The pin in the kit in the link above does not need to be flared and simply needs to be hammered in. The hammering action mushrooms the top and makes it secure. After this all that's left to do is to replace the other two o-rings on the distributor and reinstall the rotor, cap and heat shield. Thanks for watching Intro song: Kiss by Escape #d4a #distributor #rebuild #diy #howto #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 #fix #repair D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

The 4age distributor hole plug/ distributor delete is back. Buy it here: https://www.driving4answers.com/product/4age-4agze-distributor-hole-plug-distributor-delete/ Or on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/263757658564 Buy the crankshaft sensor bracket here: https://www.driving4answers.com/product/4age-crankshaft-angle-sensor/ Or on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/263748581371?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 The D4A 4AGE distributor delete an affordable, simple and effective solution for plugging up your distributor hole when upgrading to distributorless ignition on your Toyota 4AGE engine Fits 4AGE bigport, 4age smallport and 4agze cylinder heads Precise interference fit guarantees no oil leaks Super simple install - hammer into the distributor hole with a small rubber mallet to prevent cosmetical damage to item. Chamfered edges make the install foolproof Available with the old school Toyota ("TEQ") logo, the D4A logo or plain Made out of a single piece of aluminum on a CNC machine Free international shipping The D4A store has been upgraded to https, so you shopping is now 100% secure!

When converting from fuel injection to bike carbs you are basically making big changes to two things. Once is the size and shape of your intake and the other is the way you deliver fuel to your engine. You have to make changes to the fuel system because unlike fuel injection, carburetors require a much lower fuel pressure to run properly. EFI fuel pressure is around 70-80 psi at the pump and 35-40 psi at the fuel rail, while carburetors just need 3-5 psi to run properly. To get that kind of fuel pressure you have two options. Make your stock efi fuel pump do its job and pump fuel and then reduce the pressure somewhere down the line by using a fuel pressure regulators. To do this properly you also need a fuel pressure gauge and a return line to the tank. This ends up being kinda complicated and makes the engine bay kinda messy. Also, good fuel pressure regulators, like those made by malpassi, are relatively expensive and cost anywhere from 80 to 100 USD. The good thing about this setup is that you retain your stock fuel pump and can easily switch back to EFI. Now option number two, which is what I did, will also enable you to keep your stock efi fuel pump and costs a lot less. Option number 2 is to use an actual fuel pump from a motorcycle. These are cheap, readily available, super easy to install and don't need a fuel pressure regulator or a fuel pressure gauge or a return line to the tank. There is a bit of a catch tho, and that's that you have to somehow give them access to the fuel in your fuel thank without using the fuel lines used by your efi fuel pump. There is a way to do this without removing the tank, and that's by using the fuel drain plug at the bottom of the fuel tank of the mr2 mk1. Once removed simply modify the fuel drain plug by drilling and welding in an outlet. The install of the pump is inline, all you need is a hose going from the tank to the pump and from the pump to the carbs. I added a fuel filter between the tank and pump for good measure. These motorcycle fuel pumps need to be installed horizontally and as low in the car as possible. When it comes to the electrical connection the fuel pump just needs two wires. One is switched 12v power and the other is ground. D4A shop: http://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ Intro music: Kiss by Escape #d4a #bikecarb4age #bikecarbconversion #bikecarbsoncars #fuel #fuelpump #install #diy #howto #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Ran out of space in the garage. Couldn't keep working on the car. Decided to wall off my basement and store away some of the stuff to regain space. Laying bricks turned out to be incredibly boring so I decided to make things caliente and shoot this video. Next video will have car content in it. I promise. Bloopers in the end. Song is: Miho Fujiwara - Heartbeat (1986). To the owner of this song (if you exist): Please do not submit any sort of copyright claim against this video. I will gladly transfer any sort of revenue this video produces to you. Be aware that this will amount to a grand total of around $2.

I'm no longer making or selling any 4AGE brackets. I am willing to sell the design for an extremely reasonable price if someone wants to continue making them. Made out of solid aluminum on a CNC machine Simple, inexpensive and elegant solution for adding a crankshaft position sensor to your Toyota 4age engine Is installed into the stock bolt holes on the oil pump (as shown in pictures). No modification of any sort is required for the install. Simply get some longer bolt holes for the desired height of the bracket. Optimal location and install to ensure stability and accurate sensor signal. Fits with inexpensive and readily available Ford crankshaft position sensors, which are compatible with almost all aftermarket ECUs. Part numbers: 6740816, 7517121, 6859705, etc. Sensor protrusion and bracket height is easily adjustable with washers. Can be used with dual row or single row crankshaft pulleys, aftermarket or stock. Can be used with any trigger wheel. Fitment with 4AGE engines using an AC is untested. Contact me if you have a 4age with AC and can test fitment and provide detailed images of the testing. I will send you a unit for free, just pay for the shipping. Sensor, oil pump, trigger wheel, bolting hardware, washers, and crankshaft pulley are NOT INCLUDED. Free worldwide shipping I use the bracket with my: Techno toy Tuning crankshaft pulley: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/4ag-crank-pulley-0 Techno Toy Tuning trigger wheel: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/4ag-trigger-wheel #d4a #crankshaftsensor #bracket #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 #triggerwheel

https://www.seicane.com?acc=812b4ba287f5ee0bc9d43bbf5bbe87fb Use discount code: D4A Watch full install and review video: https://youtu.be/ufstKA0Dd00 This one is just a little vloggy video where I talk a bit about my daily driven Suzuki Sx-4, install the android head unit and some other stuff. In the full video see the unboxing, how to install the unit in more detail as well as an in-depth look at all the features. That video covers the USB input, bluetooth connectivity, screen mirroring, obd2 dials and gauges on the head unit using the torque app and more. D4A shop: http://www.driving4answers.com/shop/

https://www.seicane.com?acc=812b4ba287f5ee0bc9d43bbf5bbe87fb Use discount code: D4A My head unit: https://www.seicane.com/android-hd-touchscreen-2006-2012-suzuki-sx4-with-radio-obd2-wifi-bluetooth-music-dvr-aux-obd2-steering-wheel-control-mirror-link-dvr-backup-camera-s04142?acc=812b4ba287f5ee0bc9d43bbf5bbe87fb So here's a detailed install and review video of my Seicane Android head unit for my daily driven Suzuki SX-4. In the video you can see how to install the unit as well as an in-depth look at all the features. The video covers the USB input, bluetooth connectivity, screen mirroring, obd2 dials and gauges on the head unit using the torque app and more. D4A shop: http://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ #d4a #seicane #android #headunit #androidheadunit #carstereo #howto #diy #install #connect #stereo

Koni shocks front for the MR2 AW11: https://amzn.to/2nTztdP Koni shocks rear for the MR2 AW11: https://amzn.to/2VQmtC0 Koni shocks front for the MR2 SW20: https://amzn.to/2IY0Qui Koni complete shock kit for the MR2 ZZW30 Spyder: https://amzn.to/2Mn7Umn Here's a quick little comparison video of a brand new Koni yellow sport shock vs. a used one with 60.000 miles on it, but with no leaks or faults. I compared the koni yellows on both the softest and firmest settings. While the used shock doesn't have any faults, there are obvious differences especially on both. On the softest rebound dampening setting the new shock rises a lot faster than the old one. On the firmest rebound setting the the new shock is a lot harder to pull up. On both of the settings the new shock is a lot harder to push in. D4A shop - http://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ #d4a #shocks #koni #shockabsorber #struts #suspension #koniyellows #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 #newvsused #test #review D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

The sounds of the 4AGE screaming at 11.000 rpm are from an awesome Starlet built by VHT racing. Check them out: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsV8-oWt0aN4YtTirHDzNLA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-jMcZEHkse0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_udH67C6pKs https://www.facebook.com/VHTRacing/ Behold! The 1.0 3 cylinder 65 hp car that I took on a 1100 km road trip to Budapest and back, just to pick up my Koni yellow sport shocks for my 1987 Toyota MR2 aw11 with my bike carb converted 4age engine. The ultimate un sports car almost got to me and turned me into a car hater. In all honesty, it's not a bad car at all. Took me to Budapest and back, hassle free and with 50+ mpg along the entire way. D4A shop - http://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ #d4a #roadtrip #koni #koniyellows #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 #aygo

The Bimmer is back and it's the star of the first ever D4A drive and review! We take the BMW 318ti on a drive on some amazing mountain roads to see what it can do. My review skills get put to the test as I take a detailed look into the BMW's engine, handling performance, looks and sheer germanness . Yes, it's a word. D4A shop - http://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ Intro music: Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a #bmw #318ti #review #drive

AEM X-series wideband gauge: https://amzn.to/2IWVlML Unboxing video: https://youtu.be/6_PWA4DhFkk X-series gauge: http://www.aemelectronics.com/?q=products/gauges/wideband-uego-air-fuel-gauges/x-series-wideband-uego-afr-sensor-controller-gauge International buyers can use the find a dealer function on the site: http://www.aemelectronics.com/find-a-dealer Here's a video on how to install the AEM X-series wideband air fuel ratio gauge and sensor. It's dead simple and anybody can do it. For the simplest install, which will enable you to monitor your air fuel ratio in real time all you need to do is to connect the power and ground to the AEM wideband gauge, install the BOSCH LSU 4.9 sensor in the exhaust manifold and connect the provided sensor harness to the gauge. I decided to connect my wideband gauge to my cigarette lighter wiring, due to its super convenient location. Simply use your multi-meter to check for continuity between the wires and battery terminals to find the power and ground wires for the gauge. Once that is done you will need to get your wideband sensor harness through the firewall. You can use an existing access point or drill out a little hole in the firewall like I did. Don't forget to use a rubber grommet. Once you are sure everything works, install the gauge into a pod and enjoy! D4A shop - http://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ Intro music: Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a #AEM #wideband #aemelectronics #howto #diy #install #widebando2 #lambda #o2sensor #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

D4A store: http://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ Open for business 24/7. Spend your hard earned money on engine parts and D4A apparel and support the D4A cause! In the store right now we have: 4AGE crankshaft position sensor bracket /mount 4AGE distributor plug D4A vinyl cut stickers D4A t-shirts More fun stuff to come! Intro song is "Kiss" by Escape #d4a #shop

What can I say, she's finally alive. Super happy and super stoked. Everyone thanks again for all your support! Here's the stuff that's making this engine tick: Techno toy tuning cam gears: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/adjustable-cam-gears-16v-4ag Techno toy tuning water pump pulley: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/4ag-water-pump-pulley Techno toy tuning alternator pulley:https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/4ag-alternator-pulley Techno toy tuning crank pulley: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/4ag-crank-pulley-0 Techno toy tuning injector plugs: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/injector-plugs-4age MRP n2 style cambelt stabiliser: https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/n2-cam-belt-stabiliser/ DanST engineering bike carb conversion kit:https://danstengineering.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1099&search=4age AEM x-series: http://www.aemelectronics.com/?q=products/gauges/wideband-uego-air-fuel-gauges/x-series-wideband-uego-afr-sensor-controller-gauge NODIZ PRO: https://motorsport-electronics.co.uk/products/ignition-only-systems/nodiz-pro/ Catcams camshafts: http://www.catcams.com/engines/camshaft-setup.aspx# #d4a #bikecarb4age #bikecarbconversion #bikecarbsoncars #firststart #engine #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

There is absolutely nothing left to check, if it doesn't start I'm droping the engine on my head. Livestream times: Tuesday 17th of April - 4:30 p.m. GMT That's: 09:30 a.m. Los Angeles, Vancouver, Phoenix 11:30 a.m. Chicago, Mexico City, 12:30 p.m. New York, Montreal, Detroit 01:30 p.m. Buenos Aires, Halifax 5:30 p.m. London, Dublin 6:30 p.m. Madrid, Berlin, Prague, Zagreb, Sarajevo, Belgrade, 7:30 p.m. Moscow, Riyadh, Nairobi, 12:30 a.m. (16th of April) - Singapore, Hong Kong, Manila, Perth 01:30 a.m. (16th of April) - Tokyo, Seoul 02:30 a.m. (16th of April) - Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane

I suck

Livestream: Sunday 15th of April - 4:30 p.m. GMT That's: 09:30 a.m. Los Angeles, Vancouver, Phoenix 11:30 a.m. Chicago, Mexico City, 12:30 p.m. New York, Montreal, Detroit 01:30 p.m. Buenos Aires, Halifax 5:30 p.m. London, Dublin 6:30 p.m. Madrid, Berlin, Prague, Zagreb, Sarajevo, Belgrade, 7:30 p.m. Moscow, Riyadh, Nairobi, 12:30 a.m. (16th of April) - Singapore, Hong Kong, Manila, Perth 01:30 a.m. (16th of April) - Tokyo, Seoul 02:30 a.m. (16th of April) - Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane We are almost there. Stay tuned for full detailed videos of the Nodiz install, AEM wideband install, of the PCV and fuel supply systems. Music: Intro Music: "Kiss" by Escape Main theme: Sthlm Sunset by Ehrling: https://soundcloud.com/ehrling Music promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/5ptXIfhUrTA #d4a #bikecarb4age #bikecarbconversion #bikecarbsoncars #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

3 videos in one week! Wooot! So this one is a bit silly and it's all about eliminating no longer necessary wires, connectors and other stuff from my engine bay wiring harness. I decided to do a silly trial for all the connections in the harness that are no longer needed. They all met a messy demise :) Because my fuel supply will be handled by my bike carbs and my ignition by my NODIZ ignition ECU I decided that I have an opportunity to make a really clean, simple and pretty looking engine bay by removing all the stuff I no longer need from my wiring harness. Which included all the connections for the various fuel injection sensors, all the ecu connections, distributor connection, ignition coil connections, and many more. After that I went ahead and added some relays, some connections for my bike carb fuel pump, NODZ and few others and then wrapped the wiring harness up nicely. The end result was a really simple and streamlined harness that should basically be plug and play and also look a lot nicer than my old one. Intro music: "Kiss" by Escape Blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ #d4a #mindlost

Full video with part numbers: https://youtu.be/CgqYV_d9UsM So here's something a little bit different. This is a video of many firsts. An engine bay that isn't the mr2's stars in this video, and I work on a BMW for the first time. The car is my cousin's 1997 BMW 318ti. In the video we are replacing the valve cover and spark plug hole gaskets and battle to get access to the valve cover, for which we needed to remove some drains, coil pack, brackets, the battery and a bunch of other things. The conclusion? It's easier to work on a mid-engined old school Toyota than on a late 90's bimmer. Intro music: "Kiss" by Escape Blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ #d4a #bmw #318ti

https://www.6sigmajetkit.com/ https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CBR600F4-CBR-600-F4-PC35-1999-00-Custom-Carburetor-Carb-Stage-1-3-Jet-Kit/232205651408?fits=Make%3AHonda&hash=item3610890dd0:g:g4AAAOxyldpSBFMZ&vxp=mtr As promised here is the install video of my six sigma jet kit. In the video we cover how to install our pilot jets, our main jets as well as how to raise the height of the jet needle using the adjusting shims and spacers. I also talk briefly about the slide spring modification and the drilling of an additional hole in the throttle slide. Intro music: "Kiss" by Escape Blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ #d4a #jetkit #howto #install #sixsigmaracing #diy #carburetor #carbs #motorcycle #bikearb4age #bikecarbconversion

https://www.6sigmajetkit.com/ https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CBR600F4-CBR-600-F4-PC35-1999-00-Custom-Carburetor-Carb-Stage-1-3-Jet-Kit/232205651408?fits=Make%3AHonda&hash=item3610890dd0:g:g4AAAOxyldpSBFMZ&vxp=mtr Here's the unboxing video of my six sigma racing jet kit. The kit containts Pilot jets main jets slide drill jet needle shims and spacers d screw remover a lot instructions The kit is for my cbr600 f4 bike carbs that will be installed on my bike carb converted 4age engine in my 1987 Toyota MR2 aw11 Since my 4age engine is almost three times as large as the 600cc engine on the Honda CBR600 it will of course be pulling in a lot more air. To compensate for this the jet kit comes with larger jets that will allow the carbs to pull in more fuel which should in the end hopefully result in a perfect air fuel mixture. Stay tuned for the upcoming bike carb jet kit install video. Intro music: "Kiss" by Escape Blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ #d4a #jetkit #sixsigma #unboxing

I realized that during my recent bike carb conversion videos of my 4age engine I have been saying the words carburetor, carbs and bike carbs without ever explaining how they work. In this video we fix that, while also paying homage to the Royal Carburettor Society of London. We are going to cover the general principles of how carburetors work, as well as a take a look at the more advanced constant velocity or cv carburetors, which is what my Honda cbr 600 carbs that are going on my 4age engine actually are. We are also going to talk about the Bernoulli principle, the venturi, main jets, pilot jets, jet needles, slides, butterflies, diaphragms, the float bowl and the float among other things. Intro song is "Kiss" by Escape Check out my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ #d4a #carburetor #howitworks #explained #tutorial

Eibach pro kit for the MR2 AW11: https://amzn.to/2MNdqOm Koni shocks front for the MR2 AW11: https://amzn.to/2nTztdP Koni shocks rear for the MR2 AW11: https://amzn.to/2VQmtC0 How to rebuild your struts (shocks). These are definitely struts, and not shocks, but a lot of people call them shocks, so I put it in the title. The video covers the full process including showing you all the parts (strut housings, strut inserts (also called strut cartridges) which are actually simply shock absorbers, springs, dust seals, spring seats, the gland nut, top mounts, top mount bearings, and other small bits and pieces. I decided to replace my shocks with some Koni yellow sport shocks and my springs with some Eibach pro kit springs. I think this combo will be a world of difference compared to my previous setup and should offer a great balance between comfort, aggressive looks and handling performance. The video also covers to full assembly of the strut and shows you in detail how to install the strut cartridge, compress the spring and how to install everything else. Stay tuned for more videos on the suspension as we will be covering the install of the struts, the different suspension adjustments and other interesting content. Intro song: "Kiss" by Escape Check out my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ #d4a #struts #shocks #strutrebuild #howto #diy #aw11 #mr2 #koni #eibach #koniyellw #mr2mk1 #suspension #shockabsorbers D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

Today is the day I install my bike carb 4age into my aw11 MR2! One more milestone reached on the road to finally driving this baby. So in this video we remove the engine from the engine stand, install the new rear main seal and gasket. We then install the oil strainer, baffle plate and oil pan. After that the transmission is installed. In the meantime the the crankshaft position sensor bracket gets finished and arrives back from the machine shop. I then lower the engine and push it under the mr2 in the most idiotic fashion. The reason? My furniture dolly idea for moving the engine around fails miserably. After that the chain hoist does the rest and the engine is. Also, some cobwebs get removed. Why are you even reading this? It's all in the video. Check out my blog. It sucks. http://www.driving4answers.com/ Intro music is. "Kiss" by Escape. #d4a #bikecarb4age #bikecarbconversion #bikecarbsoncars #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Links for the stuff I mentioned in the video: 6 sigma jet kit: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/232205651408?ul_noapp=true MRP n2 style cambelt stabiliser: https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/n2-cam-belt-stabiliser/ DanST engineering bike carb conversion kit:https://danstengineering.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1099&search=4age AEM x-series: http://www.aemelectronics.com/?q=products/gauges/wideband-uego-air-fuel-gauges/x-series-wideband-uego-afr-sensor-controller-gauge NODIZ PRO: https://motorsport-electronics.co.uk/products/ignition-only-systems/nodiz-pro/ Catcams camshafts: http://www.catcams.com/engines/camshaft-setup.aspx# Techno toy tuning cam gears: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/adjustable-cam-gears-16v-4ag Techno toy tuning water pump pulley: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/4ag-water-pump-pulley Techno toy tuning alternator pulley:https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/4ag-alternator-pulley Techno toy tuning crank pulley: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/4ag-crank-pulley-0 Techno toy tuning injector plugs: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/injector-plugs-4age So here's a little video I decided to make to give you guys some overview of all the specs of my bike carb 4age since I got a lot of questions after posting my funkiest ever engine rebuild video. So the video will cover everything you need to know about the carbs, jetting, velocity stacks, camshafts, pistons, compression, the head gasket, the block, the valve springs, and a lot of other aspects of the engine. Check out my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ #d4a #bikecarb4age #bikecarbconversion #bikecarbsoncars #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Manon racing products cambelt stabilser: https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/n2-cam-belt-stabiliser/ Manon racing products: https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/ As promised during the unboxing video of the Manon racing products N2 cam belt stabiliser here is the video on how to install the cam belt stabiliser while keeping your 4age cam gear back plate and timing belt cover. To keep the timing belt cover and the back plate you will need to modify them a bit. The modification of the cam gear back plate pretty much consists of removing the edge of the back plate that prevents the fitment of the MRP cam belt stabiliser. The first step is to simply align the MRP cam belt stabiliser with the bolt holes and mark the areas of the back plate that will need to be cut off. To cut it off I decided to use a dremel tool and a cutting disc attachment. This is definitely not as fast as something like an angle grinder but it is far more accurate and it will minimize the risk of mutilating your back plate. Once I cut off the marked piece and tested the fitment I smoothed out the edges using a little sanding drum attachment. I then had the back plate powder coated to get a clean and pleasing look Once you install the back plate, and the MRP cam belt stabiliser it’s time to modify the middle part of the timing belt cover. The process is almost the same as with the back plate, the difference being that you are dealing with plastic instead of metal which means extra care needs to be taken. I again started with the cutting disc attachment to remove a big chunk of the timing cover. Once I tested fitted I proceed with a carbide burr, this may not seem like the right tool but it removed material at just the right speed to be manageable. Once I got the shape right I did the same thing as with the metal back plate and smoothed out the edges using a sanding drum attachment. After this all that’s left to do is install the timing belt cover and admire your handiwork and the clean look of your 4age engine. Check out my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Intro music: Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a #mrp #manonracingproducts #cambelt #timingbelt #stabiliser #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

https://motorsport-electronics.co.uk/products/ignition-only-systems/nodiz-pro/ Here is the promised unboxing video of my Nodiz pro standalone ignition ECU from Motorsport electronics that will make my bike carb converted 4age sing! So this is a quick unboxing video were you can see the NODIZ pro unit, some of it's features, the wiring harness, and the ford style ignition coil, crankshaft position sensor and throttle position sensor and trigger wheel you will need to run the NODIZ. Watch the video to see how to connect the Nodiz via the factory made wiring harness I decided to get along with the NODIZ. I decided to get the pre-made wiring harness from Motorsport electronics in order to save time and frustration making my own harness and to have a proper professionally made and really nice looking wiring harness. All you need for a working system is basically 4 connections and a power and ground connection to the Nodiz and you are good to go. Simply plug in the wiring harness to the Nodiz, then into the ignition coil, crankshaft position sensor and throttle position sensor for a fully customizable 3d ignition map. Or if you just want 2d maps simply omit the throttle position sensor. If you want more you can also set up launch control, connect an aftermarket tachometer, intake air and coolant temperature sensors and even set up a shift light with the Nodiz! So stay tuned for upcoming videos where I will show you in detail how to connect the Nodiz and after that there will be a detailed video about ignition map tuning in the built-in Nodiz ez-tune software. Check out my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ #d4a #nodiz #bikecarbconversion #motorsportelectronics #bikecarbsoncars #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

D4A Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a The funktastic parts from the video: Techno toy tuning cam gears: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/adjustable-cam-gears-16v-4ag Techno toy tuning water pump pulley: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/4ag-water-pump-pulley Techno toy tuning alternator pulley:https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/4ag-alternator-pulley Techno toy tuning crank pulley: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/4ag-crank-pulley-0 Techno toy tuning injector plugs: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/injector-plugs-4age MRP n2 style cambelt stabiliser: https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/n2-cam-belt-stabiliser/ DanST engineering bike carb conversion kit:https://danstengineering.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1099&search=4age AEM x-series: http://www.aemelectronics.com/?q=products/gauges/wideband-uego-air-fuel-gauges/x-series-wideband-uego-afr-sensor-controller-gauge NODIZ PRO: https://motorsport-electronics.co.uk/products/ignition-only-systems/nodiz-pro/ Catcams camshafts: http://www.catcams.com/engines/camshaft-setup.aspx# 4AGE valve cover gasket set: https://amzn.to/2OUJ7be 4AGE complete gasket kit: https://amzn.to/2qm3xQ8 4AGE main bearings: https://amzn.to/2MlAdBK 4AGE piston rings: https://amzn.to/2oFzX7R 4AGE water pump and timing belt kit: https://amzn.to/33vScv8 4AGE intake trumpets for 20v ITBS: https://amzn.to/35HVDAM 4AGE/ Toyota oil an stud kit: https://amzn.to/2OUTvzD 4AGE spark plug leads: https://amzn.to/31libnt I've finally put it together! Rejoice! Behold the glory of the bike carb converted 4age! Enjoy the video: Check out my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Music: Persephone - Retro Funky #d4a #bikecarb4age #4age #bikecarbsoncars #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

Decided to spruce my engine to make sure it's ready to receive my bike carb conversion 4age engine! I also got to clean up my engine bay by removing the ignition coil and resistor box. Both of which have become irrelevant. The resistor box is needed for low impedance injectors in the 4age. I won't have any sort of injectors since I'm going with bike carbs. The ignition coil has been made redundant with the arrival of my Nodiz pro standalone ignition, which I will be unboxing and reviewing soon. I started of course by masking everything and then cleaned up the engine bay using an angle grinder and a wire wheel attachment, followed by a lot of paint thinner to degrease the surface. I then laid down a few layers of primer. After the primer dried I finished off using the same stone chip protection paint I used for my wheel well restoration. Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Music: A GON - Recollection • A GON https://soundcloud.com/dj-a-gon https://twitter.com/alangonzaelz https://facebook.com/agonmusic https://instagram.com/agonmusic Download Recollection by A GON for free, and use it in your monetized YouTube videos without receiving a copyright claim. READ HOW: https://support.heroboard.es. Intro music: Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a #enginebay #shavedbay #spruceup #restore #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Manon racing products cambelt stabilser: https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/n2-cam-belt-stabiliser/ Manon racing products: https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/ Here's the latest addition to the aftermarket parts that will be installed on my bike carb conversion 4age. This video is all about the unboxing and review of the n2 style cambelt (timing belt) stabiliser made my manon racing products. It's a really useful addition to any modified 4age engine, because it prevents the timing belt from flapping around when you release the throttle suddenly (down-rev), which in some cases can even cause the timing belt to skip a tooth. The n2 style cambelt stabiliser from manon racing products makes it possible to run the timing belt at it's stock tension, which prolongs belt and engine life. Countering timing belt flap by overtensioning the belt increases belt wear and negatively effects the number 1 main bearing and crankshaft journal. A very useful high quality product that has perfect finish and looks amazing. It will also make my 4age a bike carb (itb) converted n2 wannabe engine. Check out my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Intro music: Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4 #mrp #manonracingproducts #cambelt #timingbelt #cambeltstabiliser #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Here's a quick video showing you how to clean, remove rust and re-coat your wheel wells to get them looking like new. Also, here's a seriously good product to coat your wheel wells with: https://amzn.to/2JtfSsk To restore the wheel wells we need to take the following three steps.First we clean, then we repair any rust, and lasty we re-coat the wheel wells Cleaning the wheel wells is by far the most tedious task becaue there will be a lot of dirt and grime there. To clean the wheel wells I use a heavy duty degreaser, some stiff and tough brushes and a washer and canister attachment on my compressor. If you have a pressure washer that will probably work even better. I also use a big tub to catch the water to avoid creating a flood in my garage. The first thing I do is apply the degreaser per the instructions on the can. Usually you have to let it sit for 10-15 min so it can do it's thing. I then wash it down with a mixture of car washing shampoo and water. Then it's time to shake the dirt and grime with a brush. And then repeat the procedure until you have removed all the dirt. It will probably be impossible to remove ALL of it, but you need to get the wheel wells reasonably clean. Once you have cleaned up the wheel wells you might notice that there is some rust present and this is the stage when it needs to be addressed. Once you have washed your wheel wells it is very important to remove the plastic covers and check that area for rust. The aw11 mr2 is famous for getting rusty on the edges of its side skirts, because water and dirt, and rotting leaves often accumulate there and create rust. So it's definitely a good idea to check this part here once or twice per year. According to the previous owner my mr2 has been repainted 4 years ago, and there is already some pretty significant rust in the notorious area. The procedure for removing rust is well known. Grind away and paint with a nice high quality primer. Once the primer is dry and everything clean it's time to recoat the wheel wells. There's a lot of different products out there for this purpose but I found the one I use in the video (Nigrin - stone chip protection) to work really well. It creates a rubber like, long lasting flexible coating that resists stone chips, water and pretty much all other road conditions. The great thing about it is that it bonds to the surface really well even when it's not perfectly clean. Apply the coating as per the instructions on the can. This one calls for 3 layers. Once the coating has dried and you have reinstalled your plastic covers you can behold your results. Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a #wheelwells #clean #restore #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Technotyotuning water pump pulley: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/4ag-water-pump-pulley Technotyotuning alternator pulley: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/4ag-alternator-pulley Technotyotuning trigger wheel: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/4ag-trigger-wheel Technotyotuning crankshaft pulley: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/4ag-crank-pulley-0 Technotyotuning trigger wheel front mount adapter: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/4ag-trigger-wheel-front-mount-adapter After I saw the technotoytuning firsthand crankshaft pulley I could not resist getting the other two 4age lightweight aluminum pulleys that t3 makes, and those are the lightweight water pump pulley and the lightweight alternator pulley. As you can see in the video they are also in a very fancy anodized blue and look awesome. In this video I also do a detailed weight comparison of lightweight pulley vs. stock, where, together with the crankshaft pulley my new technotoytuning water pump and alternator pulleys will make it possible for me to shave almost a kilo (973) grams from my engine's rotational mass, which is definitely a significant amount. Almost as much weight reduction as with a blacktop 20v 4age lightweight flywheel. If you opt not to go with bike carbs then you do not need a trigger wheel and you can save just under 1.4 kg which is just as much as with a 4age 20v blacktop flywheel. Which is amazing when you take into account that we are just talking about a bunch of pulleys here. In this video I also talk about the possibility of lightweight aluminum crankshaft pulleys to damage your engine. As you can hear in more details in the video, the 4age crankshaft pulley is not a harmonics balancer, but a harmonics damper. It dampens harmonics with a 30 year old piece of rubber. The dampening effect is of course pretty much gone after 30 years, so a high quality balanced lightweight pulley is a much better bet, which is why many people claim their engines run smoother after installing a high quality lightweight crankshaft pulley. Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a #technotoytuning #lightweightpulleys #crankshaftpulley #billet

Here's the adhesive you are going to need to perform this fix: https://amzn.to/2qo3gw7 Here's how to fix a loose, sloppy or steering wheel with excessive play in case that the cause of the problem is in your steering shaft. In my last video I have shown you how to rebuild your steering rack and get rid of steering play in case the rack is the cause. Here's that video: https://youtu.be/4SrwZ73QZSM This time we are looking at the steering shaft. The steering shaft actually has rubber sandwiched between two of its parts. The task of this rubber is to absorb vibrations picked up by your wheels and transferred through your rack to your steering wheel. Unfortunately as your car ages this rubber deteriorates and causes steering wheel play. The problem is that there is not replacement part for the rubber and you need to buy the entire steering shaft. This of course is not sensible. Many car owners resort to welding the two parts of the shaft together, but this results in a lot of vibrations in your steering wheel. The solution I have used is to remove the lower part of the steering shaft, clean it up with a wire wheel and then add some new rubber to the shaft. I have used windshield adhesive which is very durable and stiff so its and ideal replacement for the rubber in the steering wheel shaft. Many people use 3M window weld, but any windshield adhesive will work fine. Once the windshield adhesive cures completely your steering wheel will be play free and good as new. D4A Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a #steeringplay #fix #diy #howto #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

MR2 rack bushing kit: https://amzn.to/2IXMbzu Angle grinder wire cup to get rid of rust: https://amzn.to/2nSDrmR Steering rack rubber boots (please double check fit): https://amzn.to/2BlUrF6 Have a sloppy steering wheel? Fix that annoying steering wheel play and get back your awesome steering wheel feel by rebuilding your steering rack yourself. It's easy and you can do it with some very basic tools. Watch the video to see how it's done and how to replace the steering rack rubber boots, how to unstake and stake claw washers, how to replace the steering rack bushings with polyurethane ones and how to install new inner tie rod ends and outer tie rod ends. I also show you how to remove the steering rack from your car and how to restore it by removing the rust with a wire wheel and repainting the steering rack. Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ Raven & Kreyn - So Happy https://youtu.be/cmVdgWL5548 [Raven & Kreyn] • http://soundcloud.com/ravenkreyn • http://facebook.com/ravenkreyn • http://instagram.com/ravenkreyn #d4a #steeringrack #rebuild #howto #diy #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

Here's episode 6 of my Toyota mr2 suspension overhaul series. In this episode I show you how to remove struts from your car. We also disassemble the struts, which means remove the coil springs and shock absorbers that are inside. In the video you can see the safe way to remove your coil springs by using spring compressors. We also have some good news since inside my struts I find Koni yellow adjustable sport shock absorbers. My blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Intro song: Escape - Kiss https://youtu.be/Wx4XFHGOqPI ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a #struts #diy #howto #remove #suspension #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Gear puller I used: https://amzn.to/2oRocLn Here's a quick little video showing you how to remove old rubber suspension bushings without a press or without burning them out using flames. This is a job you will need to do when you decide to upgrade your suspension with polyurethane bushings for improved handling (and a stiffer ride). The concept is simple and straightforward and uses a gear puller to push bushings out of suspension components such as control arms, leaf springs, torque arms etc. In case you run into super stubborn old bushings, there's a solution for that as well. Just submerge them in gasoline for a few days. This will disintegrate the rubber and make it super easy to remove using the gear puller. How to install polyurethane suspension bushings: https://youtu.be/xK42vzdwQUo My blog and shop: https://www.driving4answers.com/shop/ Intro song: Escape - Kiss https://youtu.be/Wx4XFHGOqPI ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a #remove #suspensionbushings #suspension #howto #diy #press #rubberbushings #polyurethanebushings #controlarm #leafspring #torquearm #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

Here's part 2 of the bike carb conversion. In this part the engine block finally gets fully assembled and brought back to the garage. With the connecting rods resized the pistons, piston rings and connecting rods got installed in the engine block. Everything was wrapped, loaded into the trunk and driven back to my garage. Stay tuned for the upcoming full bike carbs 4a-ge assembly as I have some special and cool things planned for that video. Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Music used in the video: Vinsand - Soul https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGOHwwsifI4&list=PLbsU-PVaYMW0lRGAeQPEseMXjskJH7IOD&index=42 Download https://www.heroboard.es/v2/?id=cGOHw... • Vinsand https://soundcloud.com/vinsandmusic Intro song: Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a #bikecarb4age #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

I made a mistake in the video and said that rear tie rods adjust camber. That's false. Rear tie rods adjust toe. I have no idea why I mix the two up. Here's episode 4 and everything is finally removed from the car. The worst is over and now I can proceed to make all of the suspension components pretty by sandblasting, powder coating and installing my Prothane polyurethane suspension bushings. In this video I also lay down the entire suspension and give you a nice educational overview of the entire MR2 McPherson strut suspension. My blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Intro song: Escape - Kiss https://youtu.be/Wx4XFHGOqPI ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a #rust #suspension #aw11 #mr2 #mr2mk1

Here's a video explaining the important differences between 4age oil pump designs. During its life the 4age had three different oil pump gear designs. The first one was the worst with squared gear teeth that resulted in premature pump failure. The first revision of the 4age oil pump introduced rounded gears which were less prone to breakage and lasted longer. The final revision made the oil pump gear thicker which made it even less prone to breaking and enabled it to push about 20% more volume of oil. In this video you can see the three different oil pump gears design up close and see the differences between each of them. Here's where you can buy 4age oil pumps with the latest and bes gear design: http://www.matrixgarage.com/products/aisin-oil-pump-fits-all-largeport-smallport-and-silvertop http://www.sq-engineering.com/replacement-parts/engine/4age-16v/16v-4age-oil-pump-upgrade-with-custom-options.html Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Intro music: Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a #4age #oilpump #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Nodiz pro: http://www.nodiz.co.uk/nodizpro-features.html https://motorsport-electronics.co.uk/ So there's been a change of plans when it comes to my bike carb conversion. The change is that I have decided to go with standalone ignition control right away instead of the originally planed stock ECU. I have decided to this after thinking things through and talking to fellow mr2 owners and people who did carb conversions to their engines. My original plan was to delay the standalone ignition control and use a stock map sensor ecu and suitable stock wiring harness to save money. But after putting the cost of a used map ecu and wiring harness vs a brand new standalone ignition controler and the necessary accessories, the savings weren't that impressive at all. Approximately a 100 dollars and some change. I also realized told that installing a trigger wheel and crank sensor needed for the standalone ignition is a lot easier while the engine is still out of the car, than when it's already in. So my 100 usd and change looked a lot less attractive after I took this into consideration. I already have my texhnotoytuninf crank pulley that is trigger wheel ready so it really doesn't make any sense to work hard and make the stock ecu setup and than do all that work again in a month or two to setup the standalone ignition. My decision to go with standalone ignition right from the starr was made final after researching the actual benefits of standalone ignition, something which i didn't know enough about. Standalone ignition opens the doors to actual tuning and can take my carb conversion from great to really amazing. Standalone ignition is the ticket to real horsepower gains and razor sharp throttle response. This is something im of course very keen on having because it will make the car even more fun. Plus it will be a really fun learning experience when i start to play with the different ignition maps Now once i have decided that i will be going with Standalone ignition the question was which brand and model to go with because there's quite a few options out there. A very common choice when it comes to standalone ignition is of course MSD ignition. You have probably seen this red box many times. I dismissed msd as a potential choice because its very pricey new and i didn't find wiring it into a Japanese car that was fuel injected before to be straightforward. I'm not very skilled when it comes to wiring and at this time I'm not really interested in troubleshooting electrical problems and delaying my build because of that. Another go to choice for standalone ignition is megajolt. Now, megajolt is a lot more affordable than msd, while offering pretty much all the same functionality. For a while I thought i was getting megajolt but than i found something that got the megajolt beat on all fronts while being just a bit more expensive. Its called nodiz pro, which i guess mins no dizzy, ie no distributor and just like megajolt its a fully 3D mappable digital wasted spark standalone ignition system, but with a bunch of really interesting extras. I'll just list some of the most important benefits in this video and then we'll go into the details when i get it and do the unboxing. So here's a quick run down. Megajolt needs to be routed into the cabin, nodiz pro can be safely fitted in the engine bay. Megajolt can be tuned only via cable, while nodiz has built in Bluetooth connectivity which of course is a lot more convenient than a cable. Megajolt needs a Ford EDIS module to run, and you need to source this yourself either from a junkyard or online. Nodiz pro has the coil drivers built in and doesn't need an edis module. This makes the wiring and install simpler and more elegant. And lastly you need to wire megajolt yourself. You get the connections but its up to you to make it work. You can opt to have Nodiz pre loomed which makes the install a real breeze. This is huge for me because it will make sure its done right and save me a lot of time and possible hassle. Now don't get me wrong i still think that msd and megajolt are great products, and everything is always relative. For Someone who is more experienced in wiring and maybe has an edis module laying around megajolt might be a much better choice, but for me and the way i have set my priorities nodiz is a no brainer. So I guess that's it for today's announcement. Super excited to be going with standalone ignition, I think it will definitely be a lot of fun and it will open a lot of new doors for my build. Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a #nodiz #bikecarb4age #motorsportelectronics #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 #nodizpro #ignitionecu

Suspenion overhaul episode 3 is here and it's pathetic. Almost the same as episode 2 sorry. I thought I would have everything removed in this episode but all I managed was the control arm, tie rod and radius rod from the driver rear side. The radius rod on the driver side was even worse than the radius rod on the passenger side and I had to resort to cutting the bolt using my angle grinder. My blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Music used in video: Darkforce - Ardennes https://youtu.be/Rra95pzjRHI • Support Darkforce: https://soundcloud.com/darkforce-1 https://www.facebook.com/DarkforceMusic/ https://www.youtube.com/user/Darkforc... Intro song: Escape - Kiss https://youtu.be/Wx4XFHGOqPI ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a #aw11 #suspension #mr2 #mr2mk1 #rust #seizedbolt #howto #diy

Here's part 1 of the bike carb conversion. All the unboxing is finally done and it's time to take some concrete steps. Of course I'm starting with the engine assembly. In the first part we take a little trip to the machine shop and check clearances and start the engine assembly of my 4age. Enjoy the video and stay tuned. Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ Raven & Kreyn - So Happy https://youtu.be/cmVdgWL5548 [Raven & Kreyn] • http://soundcloud.com/ravenkreyn • http://facebook.com/ravenkreyn • http://instagram.com/ravenkreyn #d4a #bikecarb4age #bikecarbconversion #bikecarbsoncars #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Injector plugs: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/aw11/injector-plugs-4age Here's a quick little unboxing video of my techno toy tuning injector plugs. Great little things for my bike carb conversion that will resolve the problem of plugging up my injector holes after I remove my injector for my bike carb conversion. Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Music: Syn Cole - Feel Good https://youtu.be/q1ULJ92aldE Syn Cole • https://soundcloud.com/syncole • https://www.facebook.com/SynCole • https://twitter.com/SynColeOfficial • https://www.instagram.com/SynCole/ Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a #technotoytuning #injectorplugs #bikecarbconversion #bikecarbsoncars #bikecarb4age #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

AEM X-series wideband gauge: https://amzn.to/2IWVlML Here's a link to the official product website: http://www.aemelectronics.com/?q=products/gauges/wideband-uego-air-fuel-gauges/x-series-wideband-uego-afr-sensor-controller-gauge International buyers can use the find a dealer function on the site: http://www.aemelectronics.com/find-a-dealer Of course the gauge can also be found on eBay, Amazon, etc. Here's the unboxing video of my AEM X-series UEGO air fuel ratio gauge. I decided to buy this one for my bike carb conversion of my 4age engine in my MR2 mk1 aw11. Decided to go with AEM since they are a reputable company, that has been on the market for quite some time and has invested a lot in their research and development. Also the gauge is very reasonably priced, it responds faster than anything else in the price range and it's used by a lot of successful racing teams, so it's more than good enough for my street driven bike carb conversion. A no brainer really. In the video I also talk about the reasons why buying and air fuel ratio (afr) gauge is a good idea and how it can help you prevent engine knock and extract the maximum possible horsepower out of your engine setup. Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Music: Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a #aem #wideband #widebando2 #aemelectronics #aemxseries #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

The parts: danST engineering 4a-ge bike carb starter kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-1600-4AGE-Complete-Bike-Carb-Conversion-Kit-ZX6R-danST-STARTER-PACK-/231517105300 danST engineering Toyota 4AGE Inlet Manifold for ZX6R, ZX9R & CBR600 Carburettors: https://danstengineering.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=160&search=4age&page=2 danST engineering bike fuel pump: https://danstengineering.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_113&product_id=122 danST engineering Silicone Hose 40mm Fitting Kit for Bike Carbs or Throttle bodies: Pipercross air filter: https://danstengineering.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=98&search=px500 The main parts for my bike carb conversion from DanST engineering are finally here. In this video I unbox the Honda CBR600 bike carbs, the custom made tig welded aluminum intake manifold for the bike carbs, the bike fuel pump, and the Pipercross PX500 air filter and custom base plate. Definitely super excited to have all the parts in my hands and can't wait to have it all on my 4age engine asap. The MR2 will be so cool with this! I have just a few more parts to receive and unbox and then I will have everything I need to put my bike carb conversion in motion. Thanks for watching and don't forget to share, comment, like and subscribe. Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Music: Syn Cole - Feel Good https://youtu.be/q1ULJ92aldE Syn Cole • https://soundcloud.com/syncole • https://www.facebook.com/SynCole • https://twitter.com/SynColeOfficial • https://www.instagram.com/SynCole/ Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XFHGOqPI ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a #bikecarbconversion #danstengineering #4age #bikecarb4age #bikecarbsoncars #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Went to a 2 week vacation to Thailand. Saw a 4age 16v engine powering a long-tail boat. Had a blast. See the full Thailand video here: https://youtu.be/Z3Cnhkkk1D4 Music: Escape - Kiss https://youtu.be/Wx4XFHGOqPI ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ Eventide - Captions https://youtu.be/lqB6KUX7MyM • Eventide https://open.spotify.com/artist/2LXD6... https://twitter.com/eventide_music https://instagram.com/eventide_music https://facebook.com/TheEventideMusic Check out my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ #d4a #4age #thailand

I finally managed to find some time and work on my suspension again. In episode 2 of the suspension overhaul I am removing all of the suspension parts that will get their bushings replaced with brand new polyurethane bushings. I will also be replacing the ball joints and tie rods. For episode 2 of the suspension overhaul I had hoped to have all the suspension components removed, but all I managed to remove was bits from the rear passenger side of the car. Rust is the enemy and all the suspension bolts are seized. This makes the job super hard and slow. I even bought an impact wrench, and then another better more expensive impact wrench. I was naive enough to think it will be enough to make the job super easy. It didn't, but it did make it possible. In the episodes to come I will remove the rest of the suspension components, do a bit of restoration work and install the polyurethane bushings. I will also make short, informative useful, tutorial type how to videos for you guys out there that plan to do this yourself. My blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Music provided by Frequency. Track: Lumian - Fly Link: https://youtu.be/gW4Ug2fLr9o → Lumian: https://soundcloud.com/lumian https://twitter.com/LumianOfficial https://www.youtube.com/user/lumianmusic https://www.facebook.com/LumianMusic Intro song: Escape - Kiss https://youtu.be/Wx4XFHGOqPI ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a #mr2 #suspension #torquearm #tierod #controlarm #aw11 #mr2mk1

Techno toy tuning lightweight crankshaft pulley: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/4ag-crank-pulley-0 So the first parts for the bike conversion have arrived. The first arrival is the sexy looking lightweight crankshaft pulley from techno toy tuning. This thing looks really amazing and is unbelievable light. Weighs only 398 grams compared to the 1564 grams of the stock heavy weight crank pulley. It's also anodized so it won't rust and techno toy tuning claims that it's perfectly balanced up to 11.000 rpms. What's also cool about it is that you can quickly turn it into a crankshaft position sensor by buying the techno toy tuning trigger wheel, which will be super convenient for me later on when I decide to go with a standalone ignition controller. Another thing that should be mentioned is that the keyway boss on the techno toy tuning crankshaft pulley is a lot thicker and stronger than on the stock pulley, which is extra insurance against it breaking off on high revving heavily modified 4a-ge engines. The only drawback of this being that you have trim your plastic timing cover a bit to fit this thing. So that's pretty much it, super excited to finally have this thing in my hands, feels like a feather compared to the stock crankshaft pulley, which I will keep around for weight lifting purposes. My blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Intro song: Escape - Kiss https://youtu.be/Wx4XFHGOqPI ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a #technotoytuning #crankshaftpulley #billet #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

The parts: danST engineering 4a-ge bike carb starter kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-1600-4AGE-Complete-Bike-Carb-Conversion-Kit-ZX6R-danST-STARTER-PACK-/231517105300 danST engineering Toyota 4AGE Inlet Manifold for ZX6R, ZX9R & CBR600 Carburettors: https://danstengineering.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=160&search=4age&page=2 danST engineering bike fuel pump: https://danstengineering.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_113&product_id=122 danST engineering Silicone Hose 40mm Fitting Kit for Bike Carbs or Throttle bodies: Pipercross air filter: https://danstengineering.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=98&search=px500 Techno toy tuning crankshaft pulley: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/4ag-crank-pulley-0 Techno toy tuning injector plugs: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/injector-plugs-4age AEM X-Series Wideband UEGO AFR Sensor Controller Gauge: http://www.aemelectronics.com/?q=products/gauges/wideband-uego-air-fuel-gauges/x-series-wideband-uego-afr-sensor-controller-gauge To purchase the X-Series Wideband UEGO AFR Sensor Controller Gauge use the find a dealer option: http://www.aemelectronics.com/find-a-dealer So here it is, the 4age bike conversion plan all laid out. The video is really really long I know, but even though I tried to keep it as short as possible it needed to be this long for me to include all the relevant information about the bike carb conversion. I'm really excited about this and can't wait for all these parts to start coming in. I will be unboxing and reviewing all the parts as they arrive. Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Music: Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XFHGOqPI ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ Jeris - Get Lost https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCqcqfzspfY ➤Jeris https://soundcloud.com/jerisofficial https://twitter.com/MC_GLUTEN_FREE https://facebook.com/JerisOfficial #d4a #bikecarbconversion #bikecarb4age #4age #bikecarbsoncars #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

I usually don't do this kind of videos, but a lot of people have been asking about some follow up information about the rod knock and why it happened. So here's it is: Sandblasting my engine block with coal slag killed my engine. I washed my engine block after sandblasting like a million times, but it wasn't enough. Machine shop also says sandblasting an engine block is a stupid idea in general since washing it is next to impossible. They suggested sodablasting if a pretty engine block is really a must. So there you have it. I will do another update on the rod knock as soon as I get the oil pump in my hands and see how it all looks. Check out my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Music used in the video: Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ Music provided by Frequency. Track: Lumian - Fly Link: https://youtu.be/gW4Ug2fLr9o → Lumian: https://soundcloud.com/lumian https://twitter.com/LumianOfficial https://www.youtube.com/user/lumianmusic https://www.facebook.com/LumianMusic #d4a #rodknock #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

The title says it all. First one to guess the engine build in the comments section wins the first ever D4A shirt and stickers! 1 attempt each please :). Thank you.

Here's a link to my adjustable cam gears (cam pulleys): https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/16v4age/adjustable-cam-gears-16v-4ag Here's a video on how to use adjustable cam gears. If you install aggressive camshafts on your engine, adjustable cam gears become a must, otherwise the stock cam gears will be limiting the potential of your aggressive cams. Adjusting adjustable cam gears or pulleys is super easy. Unlike stock cam gears which require the removal od a timing belt and valve cover to be "adjusted", all you need to to do adjust aftermarket cam gears is to loosen a few bolts and rotate the engine. Cam timing is the position of your camshaft lobes in relation to your piston's position. Advancing cam timing on the intake cam means the intake valves will open earlier. Retarding cam timing on the intake cam makes it retarded *crickets sound*. Retarding cam timing on the intake cam actually makes the intake valve open later. However, since the 4a-ge engine is a dohc (double over head cam) design we can also play with the lobe separation angle. You adjust the lobe separation angle by moving the cam lobes away from each other or towards each other. Moving cam away from each other, i.e. increasing LSA results in: Broader power band Lower max HP torque moved lower in the rpm range maximum torque decreased engine idles better less chance of engine knock piston to valve clearance increased Moving cam towards each other, i.e. decreasing LSA results in: Narrow power band Higher max HP torque moved higher in the rpm range maximum torque increased engine idles worse more chance of engine knock piston to valve clearance decreased It might also be important to add that playing with the LSA has almost the opposite effects on a turbo vs. an naturally aspirated engine. Check out my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Intro song: Escape - Kiss https://youtu.be/Wx4XFHGOqPI ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ Music provided by Frequency Track: Mabeha & Ulchero - Taste Of The Sun Link: https://youtu.be/oh6G2rdB1Oc → Mabeha: https://soundcloud.com/mabeha https://twitter.com/mabeha_music https://www.facebook.com/mabehaofficial → Ulchero: https://soundcloud.com/ulchero https://www.facebook.com/ulcheromusic #d4a #camgears #technotoytuning #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Got rod knock? Want to do a swap? Need to pull / remove / drop the engine? No engine hoist or car lift? Here's a video showing you a step by step procedure. Here's a quick check list of things you need to do drop the engine from an AW11 (and pretty much any other car). - Drain oil - Drain coolant from engine - Drain coolant from radiator - Disconnect oil cooler lines - Disconnect and remove battery - Remove air flow meter - Remove coolant overflow tank - Remove throttle body - Remove brake booster hose - Remove coolant filler neck - Remove v-belt and alternator - Disconnect all engine bay wiring harness electrical connections - Remove clutch hose - Disconnect all coolant hoses from thermostat housing and cylinder head - Disconnect fuel lines - Disconnect shift cables - Remove drive shafts - Unbolt engine mounts - Hoist engine so the chain hoist holds up all the weight - Drop engine My blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Music provided by Frequency. Track: Lumian - Fly Link: https://youtu.be/gW4Ug2fLr9o → Lumian: https://soundcloud.com/lumian https://twitter.com/LumianOfficial https://www.youtube.com/user/lumianmusic https://www.facebook.com/LumianMusic Intro song: Escape - Kiss https://youtu.be/Wx4XFHGOqPI ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a #4age #mr2 #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

D4A Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Finally its time for a teardown of the junkyard 4a-ge engine I bought a few days ago. In this video I also cover some of the 4age engine family basics, and how the engines are different and categorized. I talk about bigports, smallports, redtop, bluetop, 16v and 20v and all the other 4age realted stuff. Unfortunately the junkyard 4age engine turns out to be a total piece of junk. Came from the junkyard. I should have known. Its rod bearings are ruined beyond belief. In the videos to come I will be dropping the engine from my MR2 and actually work on fixing that one. The junkyard 4age still wasn't such a failure because I did get a working distributor, wiring harness, cylinder head, ECU and some other bits with it. Stay tuned for more fun stuff to come. Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Music provided by Frequency. Track: Lumian - Fly Link: https://youtu.be/gW4Ug2fLr9o → Frequency: https://twitter.com/thisisfrequency https://soundcloud.com/thisisfrequency https://www.facebook.com/wearefrequency https://www.instagram.com/thisisfrequ... https://www.snapchat.com/add/wearefre... → Lumian: https://soundcloud.com/lumian https://twitter.com/LumianOfficial https://www.youtube.com/user/lumianmusic https://www.facebook.com/LumianMusic Intro song: Escape - Kiss https://youtu.be/Wx4XFHGOqPI ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

4AGE road bearings: https://amzn.to/2nRJ9p2 4AGE main bearings: https://amzn.to/32oJsqw 4AGE complete kit - rod bearings + main bearings + thrust washer: https://amzn.to/2IXS1Rq D4A Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a Hear something knocking in your engine? Afraid it might be rod knock? Here's how to check it out. Whether it's a knocking noise inside your engine or a clicking one or whatever else, the only truly foolproof way of checking for rod knock is taking a direct look at your rods and rod bearings. To do that you need to remove your oil pan. Removing the oil pan is easy. In the case of my MR2 mk1 all you need to do is get the exhaust out of the way and unbolt the oil pan. After that remove the oil strainer and you can take a look at your rods and rod bearings. Shake the rods a bit. If they feel loose that is very bad and everything needs to come out. In my case the rods were rock solid but once I removed my bearings I noticed some very alarming things and confirmed that my engine unfortunately did develop rod knock. I just got caught it pretty early. Rod 1 looked best, rod 4 worst, to me it seems like it's an oiling issue, although my oil pressure was good the needle on the manual oil pressure gauge was pretty bouncy. So what now? Another rebuild. I'll drop this engine soon and get it fixed using a junkyard 4age engine I just got. Time to get dirty again. Check out my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Music used in the video: Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a rodknock #diy #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

Oil pressure tester: https://amzn.to/33vZhvI Here's a quick litttle video showing you how to check the oil pressure on your engine Oil pressure is one of the most important things when it comes to your engine's health. My 4age 16v engine on my toyota mr2 mk1 aw11 has recently developed some strange engine noise and I am doing a series of tests to determine what's wrong. Oil pressure is extremely important because without adequate oil pressure the metal compotenetns inside your engines like your crankshaft journals and connecting rods would make contact and your engine would suffer catastrphic failure. Checking your oil pressure is super easy. All you need is an oil pressure tester and some pliers. YOu can get an oil pressure tester super cheap from eBay, which is where I got mine for like 20 bucks. After you have done that you will need to disconnect your oil pressure sender and attach the oil pressure tester in its place. Be sure to research whether your oil pressure sender uses NPT, BSPT or BSPP fittings. Once you have connected your oil pressure tester fire up the engine and keep an eye out for the pressure and the leaks. Make sure you test the pressure when the engine is hot, and also when it is hot. And also at idle and at 3000 rpm. My oil pressure was thankfully within spec but my oil pressure needle was kinda bouncy which worries me a bit so I will be dropping my oil pan in the videos to come and checking for rod knock by looking directly at my bearings. Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Music used in the video: Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ #d4a #diy #oilpressure #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

Here's my long awaited sequel to my How to DIY polyurethane engine mounts video I made almost a year ago. That video got a lot a of views but it also raised two very important questions: 1. How have my DIY polyurethane engine mounts held up? 2. How do my DIY polyurethane engine mounts compare to stock ones? In this video I answer both of those questions. 1. Over the course of around 10 months and 1000 miles my polyurethane engine mounts have held up really well. They have not developed any cracks and are without faults. You can see a shot of them off the car towards the end of the video. Yay diy! 2. To compare my polyurethane engine mounts to the stock mounts I recorded vibration, noise and engine movement with the polyurethane engine mounts on the car and took a test drive. I then removed the polyurethane engine mounts, installed my stock engine mounts and then recorded vibration, noise, engine movement and took another test drive. You can see all the details in the video. Conclusion: Polyurethane engine mounts are great for cars that see a lot of track days, but for something that you are going to daily drive I honestly think that they are a bit too annoying. If your car will spend most of its life on public roads, I would advise against polyurethane engine mounts, since you will be experiencing their negatives most of the time and harnessing their benefits rarely. On the other hand if you have a weekend warrior or a track toy than polyurethane engine mounts are a great idea, because the noise and the vibration will be an unimportant side-effect and you will harness the benefits of a more agile car and a more responsive driving feeling. Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Music used in the video: Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XFHGOqPI ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ Jeris - Get Lost https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCqcqfzspfY ➤Jeris https://soundcloud.com/jerisofficial https://twitter.com/MC_GLUTEN_FREE https://facebook.com/JerisOfficial #d4a #polyurethane #enginemounts #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Compression testing tool: https://amzn.to/2MlNUkg Time for the first ever compression test of my freshly rebuilt engine! Fingers crossed. Doing a compression test is really easy and its something that every car guy should be to do himself. You can buy a compression tester for cheap and be able to do a compression test whenever and wherever you want. How to do a compression test? The first thing you need to do is warm up your engine to operating temperature. After that shut off your engine and remove your spark plugs. The disconnect your ignition coil and disconnect all of your injectors. After that you are ready to screw in your compression tester into your spark plug hole and crank the engine. We crank the engine 4-5 times until the compression on the gauge builds up. Don't forget to hold the throttle wide open while cranking the engine. Fortunately my engine turned out to be ok. Which means my rebuild was not a failure and I can keep bragging how I rebuilt and engine by myself. When doing a compression test what you are looking for is staying withing the factory specified specs, but also whats even more important is consistency between each individual cylinder. If one cylinder gives a reading that is significantly different than the others, than you are most likely looking at expensive repairs due to failed piston rings, or sticking valves. In the videos to come I will be inspecting my engine for rod-knock and testing my engine's oil pressure. Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Music used in the video: Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ This video or any of the products within it are in no way sponsored or endorsed by anyone. #d4a #diy #enginecompression #compressiontest #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

D4A - cheap eBay stuff reviews episode 1 In this first ever episode of D4A cheap eBay stuff reviews we are reviewing the 8 dollar endoscope camera to see if it is useful for working around cars and if it gets the D4A cheap eBay stuff seal of approval. Watch the video to see the camera dive into my engine and record my cylinders and pistons. I also check to see if it can retrieve bolts from tight spaces, inspect exhaust manifolds for crack and look for leaks in tight spaces. There's also a review of the camera itself and a short tutorial on how to set up the endoscope camera to work with your android smartphone. Songs used in this video: Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ Jeris - Get Lost https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCqcq... ➤Jeris https://soundcloud.com/jerisofficial https://twitter.com/MC_GLUTEN_FREE https://facebook.com/JerisOfficial Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ This video is in no way sponsored or endorsed by eBay or anyone else. #d4a #endoscope #engine

Feeler gauge/ leaf gauge you will ned to check valve clearance: https://amzn.to/2oPFOHE Want to check and adjust your valve clearance? Here's how. So, the other day I heard a weird noise coming from my engine. Shut it off, contemplated suicide, but then pulled my sh*t together and decided to investigate. Is it rod knock? piston slap? valve clatter? or something else entirely? Well, I won't know until I rule them out one by one. I decided with to start with the simple and least expensive possible cause which is valve noise due to valve clearance (valve lash) being out of adjustment. I had a machine shop set up my valve clearance according to the numbers I gave them, but I never checked them. So I took off my cam covers, got my feeler gauge and measured my valve clearances. All were within spec, which is kinda sad as it means I will probably have to dig deeper to uncover the culprit behind my engine noise. Stay tuned for more videos. Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ Aests - FIGHT! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBXTR... ➤Aests: https://soundcloud.com/seiunmusic https://m.facebook.com/SeiunMusic https://mobile.twitter.com/seiunmusic https://youtube.com/channel/UCwT4jH1v... https://seiun.bandcamp.com/releases #d4a #valveclearance #diy #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

Here's part 1 of my suspension overhaul master plan. It consists of new front and rear ball joints, new inner tie rods, new outer tie rods and the prothane polyurethane suspension bushings total kit. (part number 18-2008) Part one is simple enough, I unbox and show you all the parts and there's some first impression and stories behind the parts. The second part will be the installation of these parts, along with a detailed tutorial on how to install all the parts. In this video I would also like to get your opinion and feedback as I decide whether to get coilovers, koni yellows and lowering springs or be crazy and go back to stock. Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Songs used in the video: Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XFHGOqPI ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ Jeris - Get Lost https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCqcqfzspfY ➤Jeris https://soundcloud.com/jerisofficial https://twitter.com/MC_GLUTEN_FREE https://facebook.com/JerisOfficial #d4a #prothane #suspension #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Here's something I loved and you're going to as well. Dyno your car using nothing but your smartphone. You don't even need GPS, and it actually works. I'll admit I was extremely skeptical when I first heard about it from a guy on a forum. He posted dyno charts that he got using absolutely nothing but a $9 smartphone app. So I decided to spend $9 and download the app which is called Perfexpert by the way. I am in no way sponsored, endorsed etc. by the makers of the app. I paid for it with my own money and I was not paid to make this video. Had the app sucked I would have told you so. The surprise is that the app actually worked. I tested it out on my 100% stock Suzuki sx4 to be sure the data it got was correct. And it was really close to factory specs, showing only that the peak torque and horsepower are developed at slightly higher rpm than stated by the factory, which is definitely not implausible. I couldn't use my MR2 for this because I don't know the power it makes, but now that I know the app works I can't wait to dyno my mr2 with this. Conclusions: I definitely recommend this, it actually works. I included a step by step tutorial on how to set up the app so it gets accurate data. It needs a lot of data and parameters on your car otherwise its completely useless. Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ #d4a #phonedyno #perfexpert

Have a nasty old shifter boot? Don't have one at all? Why not make a nice unique one yourself? Warning: sewing skills needed. Check out my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Need mr2 mk1 (aw11) and 4a-ge parts? Contact: [email protected] or check out: http://www.mk1mr2.webs.com Great service, international shipping, reasonable prices for parts that are becoming hard to find for the mr2 mk1!.

5 reasons why I think every car guy should buy, restore, rebuild a car with his/her own two hands! Check out my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ #d4a #enginerebuild #diy #carguy

Just wanted to immortalize this moment, that's all. Blog: www.driving4answers.com Need mr2 mk1 (aw11) and 4a-ge parts? Contact: [email protected] or check out: www.mk1mr2.webs.com Great service, international shipping, reasonable prices for parts that are becoming hard to find for the mr2 mk1!.

So you have spent your hard earned money into buying a new engine, or maybe rebuilding your existing one and you are about to start the break in process. You of course want best for your engine right? You have done the research and figured out there's basically 2 options when it comes to break in: hard break-in and easy break in. Easy break is what you can read in the owners manual and hard break in is telling you the opposite. Go full throttle to create sufficient pressure so your rings can get seated properly. Which break-in method should you go for? I asked my self the same question before deciding this and I realized the best to make the right choice is by talking to engine builders and people who own dynos, who see the performance of a lot of new engines in real life. Dyno owners have actually told me a really interesting thing. Of all the engines they have seen fail on the dyno, none of them failed because of machining imperfections. The reason behind the failure was always human error in the form of improper bearing tolerances that caused spun bearings or rod knoc . The other most common reason for failure was oil starvation. Engine builders have also all told me the same thing, an engine that fails because it was driven full throttle was going to fail anyway. By driving it like a grandma you simply postpone the failure, but you can not make it inevitable. No amount of hard break in can make "machining imperfections" and issue and no amount of easy break in can make a big issue go away. Good engine break in starts before you turn the key, it starts during the engine assembly with assembly lube. You apply assembly lube to all rotating parts where lubrication is critical, especially during the first few seconds before engine oil reaches them. After you have put together your engine its time to fill it up with oil. Most engine builders recommend mineral instead of synthetic so I recommend sticking with that. Another thing that is a good idea is getting a magnetic sump bolt. This thing will help pick up the tiny metal particles that end up in the oil as a result of the break in. A magnetic sump bolt will help you to monitor how well your engine is doing and to see if there is anything to be concerned about. Firing up your engine for the first time is a two person job. One person should look for leaks and other problems while the other person keeps the revs between 2000 and 3000 for about 15 minutes. This is necessary for bedding in of new cams because it make sure everything gets to operating temperature and keeping the revs between 2000 and 3000 makes sure there's enough oil pressure for everything to get oiled up properly. Right after this drain the oil, refill and use the opportunity to see how your engine is doing by checking out the magnetic sump bolt. There will likely be some fuzz on your magnetic sumo bolt, but don't let that concern you before you actually read the fuzz. Reading the fuzz is easy, all you have to do is smear it between your fingers, if you can't feel any hard particles you are good. It should feel like a sort of cream or grease between your fingers. Another great way of seeing how your freshly rebuilt engine is doing is to take a look at your oil filter. Drain all the oil from your oil filter and cut it open. Then take a nice look between the oil filter pleats. You are looking for metallic particles which can be seen with the naked eye. If you can't see any you are good. Once you have refilled your engine it's time to take that controversial first drive. Make sure your engine is fully warmed up, get on a nice road where you can develop reasonable speeds. Now don't think hard break means trashing the engine and driving it like a maniac. That is not true. Hard break in is a reasonable systematic approach. What you will do is gradually increase the throttle until you reach full throttle. Once you reach high rpms or the limits of speed the road allows you will let go of the throttle completely and decisively without changing gear. Repeat this in second, third and fourth gear, 4-5 times in each gear. Make sure to drive safely while doing this. Change the oil and inspect it again after this and keep changing the oil and filter every 120 miles or so until you reach 700 miles or so. Check out my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Music: Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XFHGOqPI ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ Jeris - Get Lost https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCqcqfzspfY ➤Jeris https://soundcloud.com/jerisofficial https://twitter.com/MC_GLUTEN_FREE https://facebook.com/JerisOfficial #d4a #enginebreakin #engine #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Here are 5 super useful tools for car guys. When I started out working on my car I was really stupid. Lost a lot of time figuring a lot of basic things out. The goal of this video is to save you that time by introducing you to 5 really great tools that will offer a lot of bang for your buck when it comes to servicing and fixing your car. Here's the list: 1. Magnetic trays. I just love these little things. Whenever you work on your car there's a high chance you will remove a bolt. There is also a high chance you will put that bolt somewhere stupid and waste time trying to find it. Not anymore. Spend a couple of bucks on a magnetic tray and your bolt troubles will be over. They want damage your car's paint and you can put them anywhere. 2. Head mounted lighting You need both of your hands when you're working around your car. So why not put that light source on your head and make sure the light is always directed wherever you need it. 3. Multi-meter Ever wondered if your air flow meter, or your MAF sensor, or your temperature sensor or any other sensor on your car is faulty? Don't waste money buying new parts just to test them out or going to the mechanic. Get your factory service manual, get your multimeter and solve that mystery. Your multi-meter can test almost any sensor on your car and tell you if it needs replacing or not. 4. Vice This is an obvious one, but you will realize how a big vice is useful only once you buy it and find yourself using it more often than you imagined. Don't be cheap and buy a small one. Small ones are useless. Get a big vice they cost more but they are worth it. 5. Air compressor This is a big ticket item, but you won't regret it. If you get a sufficiently large air compressor with enough horsepower, cfm and a big enough reservoir you will be able to sand blast, sodablast, spray paint, wash parts, clean parts, port and polish heads, bolt and unbolt things, inflate tires and many other things. An air compressor is an extremely versatile tool you will love. Give me money without spending any money: https://www.gawkbox.com/profile/D4A Check out my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Follow me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/driving4answers/?hl=en Songs used in the video: Need mr2 mk1 (aw11) and 4a-ge parts? Contact: [email protected] or check out: www.mk1mr2.webs.com Great service, international shipping, reasonable prices for parts that are becoming hard to find for the mr2 mk1!. Music used in vid: Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ Jeris - Get Lost https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCqcq... ➤Jeris https://soundcloud.com/jerisofficial https://twitter.com/MC_GLUTEN_FREE https://facebook.com/JerisOfficial #d4a #diy #tools

Want that stolen car look? Why not make a screwdriver key that's gonna make everyone think you're driving a stolen car? I noticed these things by accident while wasting time online. I wanted to actually order one of these things but soon realized they aren't made anymore and no one sells them. So I thought, "hey this is easy enough why don't I make my own version?" And so I did and here's this little simple DIY video to show you how to make your own screwdriver key and get yourself in trouble. I saw a few other people try and make these online but I think they went for it the hard way and welded keys to screwdrivers which is too much work for something as trivial as this. All I did was buy a screwdriver with a removable shaft, got rid of the shaft, made a copy of my car key, grinded away the key handle part and hammered what was left of the key into the handle, and voila! police pulls you over. Check out my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Need mr2 mk1 (aw11) and 4a-ge parts? Contact: [email protected] or check out: www.mk1mr2.webs.com Great service, international shipping, reasonable prices for parts that are becoming hard to find for the mr2 mk1!. Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ Jeris - Get Lost https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCqcq... ➤Jeris https://soundcloud.com/jerisofficial https://twitter.com/MC_GLUTEN_FREE https://facebook.com/JerisOfficial

Spark plug gap tool I used: https://amzn.to/35KDLFh Alternative tool: https://amzn.to/33Eycqg Yet another tool option: https://amzn.to/32pHRAz Gapping your spark plugs to the correct factory specified gap is essential to help your engine achieve proper combustion. An incorrect spark plug gap can lead to a loss of power, engine hesitation when under power, rough idle and misfiring. Adjusting your spark plug gap is super easy and you can do it yourself with just a single tool and a set of spark plugs. There are essentially three different types of spark plug gapping tools, the coin style gap tool, the wire or wire gauge style gap tool and the feeler gauge style gap tool. Of these three using the coin style gap tool is not recommended because it can easily damage electrodes and break the tips of fine wire spark plugs. A few notes before adjusting your spark plug gap. First of all do not attempt to adjust the gap on used spark plugs, only adjust new spark plug. The other thing is that modified engines where compression has been increased or a turbo or supercharger has been added the spark plug gap needs to be reduced. As a general rule of thumb reduce the gap by 0.004 inches or 0.1mm for every 50 horsepower you add to the engine. Adjusting the gap is super easy. You use the gauges to measure your gap and bend the electrode to increase the gaps using the ends of the wire gauge gap tool. Reducing the spark plug gap is even easier, you simply press the spark plug onto a hard flat surface, or the tool itself, gently and easily to reduce the gap. In case your spark plug gap factory specifications are not listed on the gauges of your gap tool you can use a feeler gauge to correctly measure and adjust the gap. Check out my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Like my facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/driving4answers/?ref=aymt_homepage_panel Add me as friend: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100009307877408 Follow me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/driving4answers/?hl=en Need mr2 mk1 (aw11) and 4a-ge parts? Contact: [email protected] or check out: www.mk1mr2.webs.com Great service, international shipping, reasonable prices for parts that are becoming hard to find for the mr2 mk1!. #d4a #sparkplug #gap #howto #diy #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

I like to work around my car, but 3 smartphones became collateral damage to my hobby so far. After braking the last one I got sick of it and after doing some research I went for it and bought the CAT S30. The CAT S30 is a rugged entry level smartphone, the CAT S60 's cheaper cousin. I was actually were reluctant to buy it because of its mediocre resolution, processor and internal memory specs, but I decided to go for it and have a phone that can allegedly handle anything. The CAT S30 actually has some incredible claims, not only is it resistant to being dropped on concrete from 1.8 meters, but it's supposed to be resistant to grease and oil too. I decided to put that to the test and make a video of it, as well as some other cool features of the phone. I killed my last three phones within a few months. Had this one for almost a year now and love it to bits. I had to constantly worry where I put my other smartphones and remind myself to keep them out of my pocket and somewhere safe when I'm crouching and getting under the car. Broke my last one just by having it in my back pocket and crouching. I am not sponsored in any way by cat and just wanted to share this with fellow car guys. Anyone who often works around their car should honestly get this, it was genuinely liberating for me. Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ #d4a #cats30

Here's a quick little tutorial how to video showing you how to replace a broken car stereo speaker. I just bought and connected a new car stereo to my 1987 Toyota MR2 but to my disappointment the sound that came from the speakers was horrible. The speakers were almost 30 years old and beyond repair, so there was no other solution but to replace them. This is a very easy and simple job that you can DIY easily and save yourself time and money. Removing and disconnecting your old car stereo speaker is super easy, and reconnecting a new one is the reverse of removal. I even had a broken electrical connection that I show you how to repair easily with some crimp connectors. Check out my blog for more: www.driving4answers.com/ Songs used in the video: Escape - Kiss (video intro) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XF... ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ Jeris - Get Lost (ending) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCqcq... ➤Jeris https://soundcloud.com/jerisofficial https://twitter.com/MC_GLUTEN_FREE https://facebook.com/JerisOfficial #d4a #carspeaker #carstereo #diy

Video POI 6:10 -4age engine screaming through tunnels 08:50 - hill climb 1 12:06 - Mostar tour 15:53 - hill climb 2 19:02 - 4age engine MPG 20:46 - bloopers It was finally time to take a road trip in my 1987 Toyota MR2. After troubleshooting a skipped timing belt tooth and finally getting my timing right I felt confident enough to drive somewhere more remote. The destination was the city of Mostar, some 120 km away. I decided to make the most of the trip by recording the 4age sound through some long highway tunnels and calculating the MPG of my slightly upgraded 4age engine. Here's what I have on the engine: Cams: Catcams 8.0 lift, 244 duration Smallport pistons and 10.4 compression Cam pulleys: techno toy tuning Valve springs: HKS Flywheel: oem blacktop Clutch: Aisin All new gaskets: OEM Since I haven''t really touched my brakes or suspension yet I didn't go 100% in terms of driving but I still did some nice hill climbs and had great fun on the road. The car felt pretty great. I did discover my steering rack is a bit loose, especially at higher speeds and I definitely have to do something about the exhaust, which is too loud and somewhat annoying. Engine-wise I was really happy and my 4AGE bigport seems to make great power, especially at higher revs where it really shines. All in all the trip was really enjoyable and fun. I will be tackling the suspension, brakes and steering in the near future and will then be making an even more ambitious and remote road trip. Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Songs used in the video: Escape - Kiss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx4XFHGOqPI ➤ Escape https://soundcloud.com/escapethis https://twitter.com/escapethis__ https://www.facebook.com/escapethisff/ https://escapethis.bandcamp.com/ Aests - FIGHT! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBXTRtm07RA ➤Aests: https://soundcloud.com/seiunmusic https://m.facebook.com/SeiunMusic https://mobile.twitter.com/seiunmusic https://youtube.com/channel/UCwT4jH1v... https://seiun.bandcamp.com/releases Jeris - Get Lost https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCqcqfzspfY ➤Jeris https://soundcloud.com/jerisofficial https://twitter.com/MC_GLUTEN_FREE https://facebook.com/JerisOfficial Mostar old bridge jumping footage: Bridge jump - MOSTAR (Go Pro Hero2) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iy4H-HQzgmc Cliff Diving Highlights from Mostar - Red Bull Cliff Diving 2015 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSfWHzQtLN4 Aussie jumping from Mostar's old bridge https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nw3WIFDvGwg Disclaimer: Under Section 107 of the Copyright Act 1976, allowance is made for "fair use" for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing." The materials are used for illustrative and exemplification reasons, also quoting in order to recombine elements to make a new work. The original works were altered quantitatively or qualitatively and the video does not compete with the market for the original works. There were used small portions of the materials in a new context and expression for illustrative reasons only. #d4a #roadtrip #mr2 #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Here is the link you need that I keep mentioning in the video: http://www.driving4answers.com/troubleshooting-my-engine/ Engines often don't run, especially after a tear down and rebuild. After I rebuilt my engine I couldn't get it to run right. There was misfiring and low power. This called for some step by step engine troubleshooting to find out what is wrong with my engine. I realized this might be useful for a lot of people, especially with older engines, when they decided to troubleshoot their engine on their own. So here are some of the first things to look at when trying to figure out what's wrong with your engine: Spark plugs Spark plugs are great bang-for-back item in terms of diagnosis. They are super easy to remove and can tell you a lot about what might be wrong with your internal combustion bundle of joy. In the link above there's little chart that can help you diagnose your spark plugs in case they don't look normal. Fuel pressure Fuel pressure can go out of spec because of any of the following: leaky injector o-rings, faulty injectors, dying fuel pump. Fuel pressure is also relatively easy to check. Fuel pressure for a 4age 16v should be 38 to 44 psi (265-304 kPa). In the link above there are detailed instruction on how to check your fuel pressure on a Toyota 4AGE 16v Air Flow meter If everything checks out fuel wise I would take a look at the Airflow meter next. Checking it out is super simple, just rip out a multi-meter and measure the resistances. Make sure you are measuring using the correct resistance setting and also make sure you're multimeter is zeroed in case it's an analog one. Zero it in by touching the probes together and turning the knob until the dial hits zero. Zero in for the resistance setting you will be using. In the link above are workshop manual pages with detailed airflow meter specs to look for when measuring on your Toyota 4age 16v. Throttle body position sensor (TPS) Same deal as the Air flow meter. Get out the multimeter and test. You need a thickness gauge for this part too. This can be done on the car but its a lot easier if you actually take the throttle body off. In the link above are workshop manual pages with detailed TPS specs to look for when measuring on your Toyota 4age 16v. Ignition timing Correct ignition timing is critical for making power and running right. ignition timing determines when spark occurs in relation to the position of the piston. In case its wrong you can have incomplete combustion, knocking and other stuff you don't want. Ignition timing is checked with a timing light. In case of the 4a-ge the procedure is as follows: Make sure engine is at operating temperature Attach timing light (watch video below to see how) Connect diagnostic plugs E1 and T Fire up engine Point timing light at timing marks. Timing needs to be 10 degrees before top dead center (BDTC) i.e. advanced for the 4A-GE 16v Cam timing Cam timing is not to be confused with igniton timing. Cam timing determines the position of your camshafts in relation to the position of your pistons. How do you check cam timing? Easy. Camshaft pulleys and crankshaft pulleys all have TDC marks on them that need to align with TDC marks on things right behind them. Cam pulleys align against the backing plate, crankshaft pulley aligns with the bottom timing cover (corolla 4age) or with the pointer needle (MR2 4age) and the timing belt sprocket aligns with a mark on the oil pump (you need to remove crank pulley and timing cover to see this). Lift up your car, remove the passanger side-rear wheel, remove the top timing cover, rotate engine by hand until crank pulley is at tdc. In case any of your cam timing pulleys is not at tdc your cam timing is off and that will make your engine run like poop. What was wrong in my case? MY timing belt skipped a tooth. How did I find out? By looking at my cam timing. When I put my crank pulley at TDC neither off my cam pulleys was at TDC. This clearly told me something was off here. What failed? A 30 year old tensioner pulley spring couldn't do its job. I could not tighten the tensioner pulley sufficiently and my belt would skipped a tooth. I tried it twice and twice it skipped. Solution? Got rid of it, pushed tensioner pulley in manually and tightened it down. Worked like a charm. A whole nother car now. Yay! Some sort of road trip needs to happen soon. Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe. #d4a #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

The other day I took a stetoschope to my car and I was amazed by the things you can hear with just a stetoscope. Put it against the cam cover and you can hear a whole plethora of weird mechanical sounds. Put it against the injectors and you can hear them firing loud and clear. Put it against the distributor and you can hear the rotor spinning at a crazy pase hitting the contacts in the distri butor cap. More fun can be hear if you put the stetoschope against the oil pan where you can hear the crankshaft spinning. Usually all of these engine sounds are compltely inadubile, obscured by the sounds of combustion. But a simple cheap stetoschope lets anyone hear them all. How I did it? Its a low-tech solution and the simplest cheapest one I could find. The audio quality is not perfect but it is good enough for the purpose. I took apart a stetoschope and stuck a lavalier mic in the plastic tube and taped them together. Simple as that. So if you got a car and an engine don't rob yourself of a really fun experience and stick that stetoschope against that big v8 in your muscle car or maybe an even exotic engine in a super car? Don't worry 4 cylinders are just as fun, no dyscrimination here. The engine in the video is my fully rebuild Toyota 4a-ge bigport sitting in my 1987 Toyota MR2 mk1 (aw11). For more automotive, DIY, how to and other fun stuff check out my blog: www.driving4answers.com #d4a #engine #sound #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Timing light: Timing light: https://amzn.to/2MocYa9 Setting up your ignition timing correctly is extremely important in order to have your car running properly. If your ignition timing is not set right your car will not be making the power or the mpg it should. If you have an older engine that uses a distributor the only way to accurately set ignition timing is with a timing light / timing gun. Timing lights can be bought anywhere and are fairly inexpensive, ranging from 15$ to 100$ for high-end professional timing lights. However, the average car guy /car enthusiast will be able to make do with even a very basic unit. Hooking up a timing light is easy. Every timing light consists of the same basic components. Two clamps which connect to the positive and negative sides of your battery. A timing light also has an inductive clamp which is clamped onto the number one spark plug wire on your engine. After this you are ready to fire up your engine and aim your timing light at your timing marks. Setting your ignition timing is also easy and you do this by loosening any bolt(s) that hold down the distributor, and as you are looking at the timing marks on your engine you rotate the distributor until you reach the ignition timing specified by the manufacturer. Specific timing procedure the 4A-GE 16V Toyota engine This same general procedure for setting ignition timing is the same for a Toyota 4age engine, but there are few preconditions to be met before setting the timing on the 4age. First of all your engine needs to be at its operating temperature before you start to set your ignition timing. The second pre-condition is bridging the E1 and T terminals in your diagnostic plug. After this you can proceed to set the ignition timing on your 4age engine by hooking up the timing light as described above. The 4age needs to run at 10 degrees advanced, i.e. before top dead center, with the above pre-conditions met. There are three ways that you can set the timing on your 4age engine depending on which car your engine is / comes from. In the video I show you three different methods to set the ignition timing on a 4age. First is by looking at the single notch on the crank pulley and aligning it against the timing marks on the plastic timing belt cover. This is the case in the Corolla, Fx16, Celica and other 4age powered Toyota cars where the engine sits in the front. You set the timing by looking at the needle pointer and three timing notches on the crank pulley in case of the MR2 aw11, where the engine is in the back. There is an alternative method to set the ignition timing on the 4age in case none of your timing marks is visible and that is by looking at the cam pulleys. Watch the video to see how. Check out my blog for more: www.driving4answers.com #d4a #timing #timinglight #ignitiontiming #howto #diy #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

Help me make even better content by giving me money without spending any money: https://www.gawkbox.com/profile/D4A Thank you for your support! How to drop the engine in a Toyota MR2 mk1, with specs for the wood you see in the video: http://www.driving4answers.com/how-to-remove-the-engine-mr2-mk1/ Back when I decided to rebuild my engine on my Toyota MR2 myself the first obstacle I ran into was actually lifting my car high enough in my garage to be able to start working on the underside, disconnect stuff, and eventually drop the engine. Since the engine in mid-engined cars isn't lifted out, its actually dropped the rear of the car needs to be raised quite high for the engine to clear the car. Lifting a car high enough for this without a professional post lift is a real challenge. Most jack stands don't lift the car enough, the same goes for car ramps. So after quite a bit of research I found and unlikely solution: wood. Wood is actually plenty strong as long is unprocessed raw natural wood. What I used are small wooden planks (approx 3 cm thick, 30cm long and 5 cm wide) that I stacked into wooden towers to act as wooden jacked stands. It is a lot slower than a professional car post lift, or scissor lift, but when done right it is just as safe and costs 10 times less. My car (Toyota Mr2) spent more than 2 years on these DIY wooden jack stands without absolutely any deterioration of the wood. Another very important note is that screws or nails must not be used on the wooden planks, as this can start cracks and splits in the wood and kill you. You are responsible for your safety when working around the car. Check everything before going underneath the car and make sure its 100% safe. Don't rush things and don't cut corners. #d4a #diy #wood #carlift #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

A few days ago I noticed my car had a weird vibration at speeds above 40 mph. I thought I had a bad wheel or maybe steering rack problems or something else entirely. But my mechanic took a look at my wheel s and said, "you're missing hub centric rings on your wheel hubs, that's why you have a vibration at these speeds". What are hub centric rings and why do you need them? Hub centric rings are used only when the center (hub) bore on your wheel is larger than your wheel hub. This never happens with stock rims/wheels, so they are only needed when you are using aftermarket wheels. Aftermarket wheel manufacturers make the hub bores on their wheel larger so they can fit as many different wheel hubs as possible. Since call car wheel hubs are not the same diameter it often happens that the wheel hub bore is larger than your wheel hub. This is when you need hub centric rings. Wheel bolts / lug nuts are not designed to take the weight of the wheel, that is the purpose of the wheel hub. The weight of the wheel rests on the wheel hub. The bolts (lug nuts and lugs) simply attach the wheel, they do not hold the weight of the wheel /car. Without a hub centric ring and with a gap between the wheel and wheel hub vibration occurs when wheel rotations is fast enough. Vibration occurs because the wheel is not resting on the wheel hub and it moves up and down as it rotates. Once rotation is fast enough this causes vibration. As soon as I installed my hub centric rings my vibration was gone. Driving too long without hub centric rings can actually damage your lug and bolt threads and cause them to loosen which can result in the wheel falling off while driving. So, take a look at your wheels and see if you have that gap, if you do its a good idea to get some wheel centric rings. Thanks for watching don't forget to subscribe. Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/i-actuallly-did-it/ #d4a #hubcentricrings #wheels #stance #suspension #hubs #hubcentric #aftermarketwheels #rims #safety

After making engine assembly, transmission rebuild, wire harness restoration and many more overhaul videos, I think its finally time I make a video of me actually driving my 1987 Toyota MR2 mk1 AW11. I actually managed to get it started a few days ago and it was unreal. I managed to take out an engine out of a car, get it machined, assemble it myself and put it back in. And the car actually drives. Unreal. There was some troubleshooting in the begging because I had stabbed the distributor a tooth off, but after that was resolved the car started just fine. I took it for a few short drives, changed the oil twice already, but this video is me driving the car on a nice open road for the first time, and its the longest drive I had with so far definitely. My now stock-ish 4age bigport engine seems really healthy, but I think I can squeeze a few more hp and improve the power curve by playing with the adjustable cam pulleys and maybe even ignition timing some more. What I will definitely be changing in the very near future is the obnoxiously loud exhaust that got on my nerves after 20 minutes of driving. It doesn't sound bad but its far too loud to be enjoyable. Other than that my MR2 feels really great. Its not overheating, it goes, it stops, it accelerates which is beyond amazing for me. 2.5 years ago I didn't even know how to change the oil and now I'm driving a car I built myself. I am probably repeating myself here but I just have to. So overall the car feels really nice. Its a proper driving experience without any electronic aids. My MR2 is fully analog and that makes it beautiful. Mid-engined, no power steering, no ABS, no ESP. The car and driver connection can really be felt. So, after all the hard work and rebuilding its time to start another chapter in my journey, one where I actually get to drive My MR2 and rev that 4AGE engine instead of just looking at it in the garage all the time. Subscribe and join the journey. Check out my blog for more: http://www.driving4answers.com/i-actuallly-did-it/ Music: ミカヅキBIGWAVE - Pure Heart 幻シンデレラ - FOLLOW HIM AT: ミカヅキBIGWAVE - ✖ SoundCloud https//:soundcloud.com/mikazukibigwave ✖ SoundCloud: https://soundcloud.com/tsunderebigwave ✖ Bandcamp: https://mikazukibigwave.bandcamp.com ✖ Twitter: https://twitter.com/mikazukibigwave ✖ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/mikazukibig... ✖ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/mikazukibigw... #d4a #firstdriveoftheoldengine #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Here's a quick and simple little video on how to bleed your clutch and brakes. Not the best video I made but it will do for what its goal is. In my rebuild I came to a point where I had to bleed the clutch and the two person method failed for me. I think there is air in either the slave or master cyilinders that is very difficult to get out just by pumping the pedal. So I researched a bit on how to do this by yourself and make it foolproof. I realized that the pressure bleeding method is the solution. So I googled around to buy a product, but gave up when I saw the prices. 50-60 $ for a plastic bucket and some hose. No, thanks. I decided to build my own pressure clutch and brake bleeding device for less than 10 $. Check out the video to see how to do it. Visit my blog: www.driving4answers.com #d4a #brakebleed #diy #clutchbleed #cheap #easy #onemanbleeding #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

4AGE valve cover gasket set: https://amzn.to/2OUJ7be 4AGE complete gasket kit: https://amzn.to/2qm3xQ8 4AGE main bearings: https://amzn.to/2MlAdBK 4AGE piston rings: https://amzn.to/2oFzX7R 4AGE water pump and timing belt kit: https://amzn.to/33vScv8 4AGE intake trumpets for 20v ITBS: https://amzn.to/35HVDAM 4AGE/ Toyota oil an stud kit: https://amzn.to/2OUTvzD 4AGE spark plug leads: https://amzn.to/31libnt Here's a stop motion time lapse video of a full assembly of the Toyota 4AGE 16v engine, as found in the ae86 trueno levin corolla, toyota mr2 aw11, as well as other toyota vechicles like the corona, sprinter, carina, and even the Chevrolet Nova and Geo Prizm. This video and engine is a product of two years of collecting parts, learning things I previously knew nothing about, saving money and then finally putting it all together. The 4age is a sporty 1600cc 124hp (116 with cat) 4 cylinder engine with a 7600 rpm redline and is one of the best sounding 4 cylinders out there. It's a simple and reliable yet entertaining and exciting engine that loves to be revved and driven hard. By today's standards its under-powered and outdated but it still has a faithful following due to its great character. It is also what Initial D protagonist Takumi Fujiwawa has in his famous ae86. The particular engine assembled in this video is a 4age 16v bigport from my 1987 MR2 mk1. The engine has been lightly modded with some technotoytuning adjustable cam pulleys, HKS valve springs, mild catcams camshafts (2x 7105136 exhaust cams, with 8.0mm of lift and 244 degress of duration). It also has domed 4age smallport pistons and a very mild head and block cut, leading to a final compression ratio of about 10.4:1. The block has been bored 0.5mm and oversized cast pistons and rings fitted. This is a street build and goal was to give the engine a small increase in power and make the engine more lively and exciting, but also keep it as reliable as possible. This is why the engine has remained non-interference. The crankshaft, flywheel, clutch pressure plate, pistons and conrods have all been balanced to ensure the engine revs as smooth as possible and copes well with high-rpm. Here's the more important stuff listed: Crank bearings: OEM conrod bearings: OEM conrod bolts: ARP Head bolts: OEM Main cap bolts: OEM Head gasket: OEM Cams: Catcams 8.0 lift, 244 duration Cam pulleys: techno toy tuning Valve springs: HKS Flywheel: oem blacktop Clutch: Aisin All gaskets: OEM All of the parts received one or more combinations of the following: cleaning, blasting, galvanisation, painting. A more detailed video of the assembly with torque specs, part numbers and instructions is coming soon. Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe. Also check out my blog for more entertaining content: www.driving4answers.com Music: Tendencies - Plastic https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cc1Vqt3wWo Tendencies https://soundcloud.com/tendencies https://twitter.com/tendencies_____ https://tendencies.bandcamp.com/ https://www.facebook.com/tendenciesof... https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwq1... https://itunes.apple.com/ca/artist/te... #d4a #enginerebuild #timelapse #stopmotion #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

This is the liquid polyurethane I used: https://amzn.to/2VPPayY Here's a detailed video showing you how to make polyurethane engine and transmission mounts from liquid polyurethane. The advantages of doing this as opposed to buying ready made aftermarket polyurethane engine mounts are that this method is much cheaper (25 USD for 4 mounts vs. 160 USD for 2 mounts in the case of my car). The advantages of polyurethane engine (especially torque mounts) are improved responsiveness, no need to replace the mounts ever again, reduced wheel hop and preventing horsepower lost on moving the engine back and forth. The video shows a detailed procedure, from removing the old mount inserts, burning out the rubber, and pouring in new liquid polyurethane. The product I used is reoflex 60 from smooth-on. There are many others out there however, this is just what was available to me and in the right shore hardness. The additional benefit of DIY mounts is the fact that you can customize the shore hardness of the mounts to make it best suited to your particular application. I have selected 60A shore hardness which is a nice compromise between the 80A shore hardness stuff which is more suited to track day cars and the 40A shore hardness stock rubber. The important thing is to ensure the pins inside the mounts are fitted in the same position as stock and they must be positioned to stand flat for the liquid polyurethane to cure properly. Think in advance about where the polyurethane will be drying as this is where the engine mounts will be sitting for anywhere between 16-48 hours depending on the tempereture and liquid polyurethane product/brand. Check out my blog for more MR2 mk1, 4AGE, DIY and more fun car stuff: http://www.driving4answers.com/ #d4a #diy #polyurethane #enginemounts #engine #polyurethanemounts #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

Here's a tutorial video showing you how to clean and whiten (remove the yellow color) from your coolant expansion (overflow tank). My coolant overflow tank was sitting in my car for far too long and it was simply horrible. With a ton of 30 year old sludge, dirt, discoloration and anything else you can imagine. Good quality replacement coolant tanks for my car (1987 MR2 mk1 AW11) don't exist, and used ones are usually in similar condition. So I did some research to see how best to clean it and get it looking like new again. Cleaning the inside was fairly easy with some common household items. Some rice, some bleach and a dish washing tab and a lot of shaking gave results that are were even better then I hoped. The outside was scrubbed with a dish washing pad and a bleach and water mixture. Again the results were very decent and 30 years worth of dirt was gone in mere minutes. What was annoying me most of all and where it was the hardest to get the results was the yellowness of the coolant tank. Scrubbing is dead useless here, since the yellowness you can see on coolant tanks is the result of a chemical reaction. The only solution is to whiten/ bleach out the ugly yellow color out of the coolant expansion tank. However this is a lot easier said than done. My initial research led me to a solution called Retrobright which was developed to get the yellowness out of old pcs like ataris and commodores. I made it and tried it, but the results were extremely poor. However I learned from Retrobright about the key ingredient to get my coolant expansion tank white again, and the magic ingredient is called hydrogen peroxide. The product with the highest concentration of hydrogen peroxide I could find was in hair-care products for bleaching your hair. On the same isle I found another product which promised to add an extra kick of aggressiveness into my bleaching formula, it was called bleaching powder and when mixed with the hydrogen cream it promised extra bleaching power. I stocked up and got to work. Results finally started to appear. After several bleaching sessions with the inside and outside of the coolant tank covered in the bleaching solution I managed to get most of the yellow color out. Mind you I couldn't get every last shade out of it, but I did manage to get it looking A LOT better than it was when I started. Check out my blog for more car DIY and MR2 and 4AGE stuff: http://www.driving4answers.com/ #d4a #restoration #yellowedplastic #whiten #coolant #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

Here's a quick and simple how to video on how to install an injector rebuild kit, or an injector service kit as they are sometimes called. Fuel injectors are an important part of your car, but after several years of service the amount of fuel and spray patterns get compromised. Luckily injector rebuild kits are readily available, are inexpensive and you can install them yourself easily. I got mine for $ 17 and it contained everything I needed for the 4 fuel injectors from my 4AGE 16V engine in my 1987 Toyota MR2 mk1 (aw11). Here's what comes in the kit: 4x pintle caps 4x upper rail spacers 4x lower grommets (also called insulators, or dampers) 4x high-flow micro filters The o-rings, rail spacers and dampers are easily replaced by hand. The pintle caps need a bit of heating up and the micro filters are replaced by putting a screw into a vice. All in all a 15 minute job that will make your fuel injectors firing like new. Conventional injectors, unlike modern versions found in direct injection gasoline and diesel engines, very rarely fail. So don't replace them unless you are 100% sure they need to be replaced. A rebuild kit and/or professional cleaning will get them working like new in no time at all. Subscribe - comment - share - like Check out my blog for more DIY car stuff and 4AGE 16v MR2 mk1 AW11 content http://www.driving4answers.com http://www.driving4answers.com/install-injector-rebuild-kit// #d4a #injector #rebuild #injectors #howto #diy #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16

If you don't feel like rebuilding it you can always get a new one: https://amzn.to/2Nih0QD Here's a short video on how to rebuild your clutch slave cylinder. The video shows how to rebuild your clutch slave cylinder using a Toyota OEM kit that contains a replacement piston with new o-rings, a new spring and a new rubber boot. This particular clutch slave cylinder fits onto my 1987 Toyota MR2 with the 4AGE engine and C50 transmission, but it also fits on a dozen other Toyota vehicles. Here's the rebuild kit part number if you need it: 04313-22020. Scroll down to the bottom of the description for a full list of cars that are compatible with this clutch slave cylinder rebuild kit. The clutch slave cylinder is easily rebuilt, but you will need an air compressor to pop the little piston out of the cylinder. After that the assembly and rebuild is simple and consists of attaching the new spring and piston to each other, cleaning the inside of the cylinder, lubricating the rubber o-rings of the piston and popping it all the back in and putting the rubber boot and rod back on top. Take note that not all clutch slave cylinders can be rebuilt. Newer models of cars are starting to get clutch slave cylinders that have a plastic housing. These can not be rebuild and are replaced as a whole. The cost for an OEM unit is usually around $100, while an OEM rebuild kit usually costs in the neighbourhood of $20-30. Check out my blog for more MR AW11, 4AGE, and other car stuff: http://www.driving4answers.com/ List of vehicles compatible with the clutch slave cylinder as shown in the video: Date range Model Frames/Options 10/1984-11/1989 TOYOTA STARLET - EP7*,NP70 05/1983-06/1988 TOYOTA COROLLA - EE80,AE8*,CE80 05/1987-04/1992 TOYOTA COROLLA - EE9*,AE9*,CE90 05/1987-10/1992 TOYOTA COROLLA - EE90,AE92,CE90 05/1983-06/1987 TOYOTA COROLLA - AE86 08/1979-06/1987 TOYOTA COROLLA - KE70,AE71,TE7*,CE70 11/1984-11/1989 TOYOTA MR2 - AW11 08/1977-06/1981 TOYOTA CARINA - TA4*(A) 08/1981-08/1983 TOYOTA CARINA - TA6*,CA60 08/1977-06/1981 TOYOTA CELICA - TA40B,RA40B 08/1981-11/1985 TOYOTA CELICA - AA63,TA60,SA63,RA6*,MA61 08/1985-07/1987 TOYOTA CELICA - AT160,ST162 08/1987-07/1989 TOYOTA CELICA - AT160,ST16* 09/1978-12/1982 TOYOTA CORONA - TT13*,RT13*,XT130 01/1982-06/1999 TOYOTA CORONA FR CT14*,RT14*,ST141,TT14*,YT140 10/1983-10/1987 TOYOTA CARINA 2, CORONA AT151,ST15*,CT150 12/1987-02/1992 TOYOTA CARINA 2 AT17*,ST171,CT171 10/1982-09/1986 TOYOTA CAMRY SV1*,CV1* 10/1986-07/1988 TOYOTA CAMRY SV2*,CV20,VZV21 08/1988-05/1991 TOYOTA CAMRY SV2*,CV20,VZV21 01/1986-07/1988 TOYOTA SUPRA MA70 08/1988-04/1993 TOYOTA SUPRA MA70 09/1980-03/1985 TOYOTA CRESSIDA TX62,RX6*,MX6*,LX60 08/1984-07/1988 TOYOTA CRESSIDA YX70,RX7*,GX71,MX7*,LX7* 09/1979-06/1983 TOYOTA CROWN RS110,MS11*,LS110 08/1983-07/1987 TOYOTA CROWN YS120,MS12*,LS120 10/1979-07/1985 TOYOTA LITEACE KM20,YM2*,CM20 10/1985-07/1988 TOYOTA LITEACE KM3*,CM35 08/1988-12/1991 TOYOTA LITEACE KM3*,CM3* 11/1982-07/1988 TOYOTA MODEL-F YR2*,31,CR21 08/1978-02/1984 TOYOTA HILUX RN3*,4*,LN3*,4* 08/1983-06/1998 TOYOTA HILUX LN5*,6*,YN5*,6*,RN5*,6* 03/1979-01/2000 TOYOTA STOUT RK110,YK110 08/1985-07/1987 TOYOTA DYNA 100 YH8*,LH80 08/1987-04/1995 TOYOTA DYNA 100 YH81,LH80 12/1982-06/1988 TOYOTA HIACE YH5*,6*,7*,LH5*,6*,7* 08/1989-01/2006 TOYOTA HIACE LH1**,RZH10*,11*,125,135,15* 08/1987-07/1989 TOYOTA HIACE YH5*,6*,LH5*,6* 08/1989-07/1995 TOYOTA HIACE LH10*,11*,RZH10*,11* 08/1985-07/1987 TOYOTA DYNA 150 YY5*,6*,LY60 08/1987-04/1995 TOYOTA DYNA 150 YY61,LY6* 09/1984-07/1987 TOYOTA DYNA BU6*,7*,8* 08/1987-07/1988 TOYOTA DYNA BU6*,7*,8*,9* 09/1984-07/1987 TOYOTA DYNA RU75,85,YU6*,7*,8*,WU9* 11/1984-12/1989 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER RJ7*,LJ7*,BJ7* 01/1990-07/2001 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER BJ73,LJ7*,RJ7*,HZJ7*,PZJ7*,KZJ7* 05/1982-12/1992 TOYOTA COASTER RB2*,BB2*,3*,HB3*,FB30,HDB30,HZB30 #d4a #clutch #toyota #clutchslavecylinder #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #rebuild #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 #diy #how

Porting and polishing rolls: https://amzn.to/2BjZ82n Long reach porting mandrel: https://amzn.to/35JHAui Air die grinder: https://amzn.to/33D4LVp Air die grinder (cheaper option): https://amzn.to/2MMvurX Electrical die grinder if you don't have a compressor: https://amzn.to/2MHLNGc D4A Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/d4a In the video I say "Most of the power comes from properly shaping the short radius" - what is more true is that most power comes from "properly aligning the seats and bowls". The short radius is still very important, so don't overlook anything. The video above is a simple, condensed how to guide on cylinder head porting and polishing. It is meant for novice and inexperienced porters who want to know what is porting and polishing and how to do it with their own cylinder head. Its sort of a porting a polishing guide for dummies if you will. But it is also detailed and specific and guides the average DIY enthusiast in exactly what, where and how to do what needs to be done in order to increase the airflow and thereby the performance of your cylinder head. The head in this video is 4age 16v bigport head from the 4age engine from my 1987 Toyota MR2 AW11. Every cylinder head is different and there are variations in what should be done during a porting and polishing job. The specifics and details of this particular cylinder head porting and polishing job apply best to the 4age bigport head, but the general principles, tools and methods are pretty much the same for any other stage 1 mild porting job and watching this video will give you a better idea of what needs to be done and how much time is needed to successfully perform a porting and polishing job. Check out my blog for more MR2, 4AGE, DIY, and other content. http://www.driving4answers.com/ Here's a nice quote from the jafromobile channel: „There are MANY, and when I say many, I mean thousands of flame war mongering pirates floating around on rough seas with a hair trigger cannon finger itching to fire if you port a head any differently than what the herd mentality says to do while porting a cylinder head„ There is no better way to say it than this. There is no SINGLE RIGHT WAY of porting and polishing a head. Even when it comes to two identical heads (and no two really are). So before posting a hateful comment and telling me I just „ruined my head“ or started the next apocalypse, please have in mind that there are hundreds of different cylinder head applications and dozens of different approaches to porting. The porting and polishing work depends on the particular application of that head. This is a simple, mild stage 1 porting job for a mild 4age 16v bigport engine build. The goal was to improve airflow without drastically changing the shape of the ports. What can not be argued against is that improving airflow improves horsepower, torque and mpg. Porting and polishing improves airflow. This can not be argued against. Removing rough and sharp edges in the combustion chamber helps prevent knocking when engine compression is increased. This also can not be argued against. Everything else is the subject of debate so saying that the way someone ported and polished their head is horrible because it varies from what YOU think is right and best is wrong unless that someone used a hammer and chisel to port their head. Please do the research first and if that research objectively proves that something is wrong you are welcome to comment, and even then constructive criticism is far more helpful than insults. What I have done has not been based on my own theories or knowledge, but on the advice and material from people who have ported dozens of 4age heads and have proven benefits of their work. This video would not have been possible without the input, advice and help from people who have proven experience of porting 4age and other heads. So here's a special thanks to OST, without whose advice and help I could not have ported the 4AGE 16v bigport head you see in this video. Check out his porting services: http://club4ag.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=300 http://s79.photobucket.com/user/oldeskewltoy/library/MOmo?sort=3&page=1 Music Beaster - Awakening - Free Background Music No Copyright Music https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRJGlq7Ov2U Beaster ► Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/BeasterMusic ► YouTube - www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdKhdbCWPyw ► SoundCloud - https://soundcloud.com/beastermusic ► Twitter - https://twitter.com/BeasterMusic ► Mixcloud - http://www.mixcloud.com/beastermusic/ #d4a #diy #porting #portingpolishing #howto #cylinderhead #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16 D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

The gear oil I recommend for the Toyota C50 and C52 transmissions as well as any other manual transmission that requires 75W90 gear oil: https://amzn.to/2VWth1i Here's a video of a full overhaul and assembly of a Toyota C50 (virtually identical to C52) 5 speed manual transmission. The video shows the full step by step procedure from start to finish. The video is not perfect, but its a great reference for anyone wanting to overhaul and assemble their manual transmission.I suggest have parts diagrams from the Toyota BGB (big green book, i.e. workshop manual) or sites like toyodiy or toyotapartscatalog.com handy while watching this video. Here's a link to the parts diagram of this transmission: http://toyotapartscatalog.com/toyota/... Here's a list of everything replaced: All synchros, 5th spee gear, 5th gear coupling sleeve, 5th gear selector fork, all synchro springs, 1 missing synchro key, rear bearing retainer plate, input and output shafts front and rear bearings, differential tapered roller bearings, all seals, clutch thrust bearing Problems addressed with the rebuild - 5th gear pop-out and hard shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. Check out my blog for more Toyota MR2, 4age, and how to diy stuff: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Music: Novila - Autumn Check out my blog for more content: www.driving4answers.com #d4a #transmission #rebuild #howto #diy #toyota #c50 #c52 #aw11 #mr2 #mr2mk1 #corolla #celica #assemble #disassemble D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

Wiring harness tape that I used: https://amzn.to/2BmcgUO But connectors: https://amzn.to/2IXKNgg More butt connectors: https://amzn.to/2nXjQlC Crimping pliers: https://amzn.to/2oFDe7a Why not solder instead? : https://amzn.to/32qoW94 Here's how to fix up, improve the looks, freshen up, restore, re-tape and do a lot of other things to your old and tired looking car wiring harness. Video includes: -Removing of old insulation -Fixing up dodgy wiring with wire striping, crimping and butt connectors, -Replacing old broken connectors -Re-taping the wiring harness with wiring harness wrapping tape Check out this video if you are just interested in the bit about the electrical connectors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShCtT15zo4w Check out my blog for more how to and diy car stuff, especially MR2 AW11 and 4AGE relate content: http://driving4answers.com/ Song: Wivvern - Panther https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iauEst8L078 #d4a #wiringharness #diy #howto #restore #restoration #wiring #diywiring #elelctrical D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

Here's how to replace a broken car (automotive) electric connector. In this case I am replacing my injector connector, which was broken and would come off sometimes when driving over potholes or bad roads. Replacing a connector is easy. All you need are some basic inexpensive tools and this video. Save yourself a trip to the mechanic/ electrician and fix it yourself. Here's also a link so you can check which type of injector connector you have so you can know which kind you need when ordering a replacement. http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorconnect1.php Music: Wivvern - Panther Check out my blog for more DIY and car stuff, especialy Toyota MR2 and 4AGE. http://driving4answers.com/ #d4a #car #connector #automotive #electric

Here's a short video showing you 5 easy and somewhat surprising and creative ways to prevent rust. #d4a #rust #removerust #diy #howto

The gear oil I recommend for the Toyota C50 and C52 transmissions as well as any other manual transmission that requires 75W90 gear oil: https://amzn.to/2VWth1i Part 4 of my Toyota C50 transmission rebuild and restoration series. In this part the transmission gets disassembled by a pro while I just film. We discover some additional things that need be changed other than the fifth gear and synchros. This is a step by a step video that should give you a very good idea on how to take apart a Toyota C50 transmission and many other 5 speed manual transmissions. Watch part 1 here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqfRrFfuwEs Watch part 2 here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=waVh8iE0DgA Watch part 3 here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_TOk0ClosQ Check out my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Thanks for watching. Subscribe if you want more DIY, 4AGE and MR2 Song: Vigilancer - Can See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxThpPhr0w8 #d4a #transmission #rebuild #howto #diy #toyota #c50 #c52 #aw11 #mr2 #mr2mk1 #corolla #celica #assemble #disassemble D4A (driving 4 answers) is part of the amazon associates program

Part 3 of my Toyota C50 transmission rebuild and restoration series. In this part I sodablast the bellhousing and sandblast the rest of the transmission case. Since I took it out I decided I couldn't put the transmission back with all the dirt, grime and rust on it. Watch part 1 here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqfRrFfuwEs Watch part 2 here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=waVh8iE0DgA Check out my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Thanks for watching. Subscribe if you want more DIY, 4AGE and MR2 Music: Eric Florez - Time https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VafHnHxmyhM #d4a #transmission #rebuild #howto #diy #toyota #c50 #c52 #aw11 #mr2 #mr2mk1 #corolla #celica #assemble #disassemble

Step by step video showing you how to replace spark plugs on your Mini Cooper S R56 or Peugeot 207 GT THP (these two cars have the same engine). Procedure is similar for many other cars. Save some money and do this simple job yourself. Watch in 1080p #d4a #minicooper #r56 #sparkplugs #diy #peugeot207

Soda blasting gun I use: https://amzn.to/2BlI6kw Soda blasting my 4age engine head. Watch in 1080p. From dirty to clean in just one hour of easy work with my diy soda blasting setup. 8x video speed. See how my sodablaster setup worrks: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PM9gKJjVV2w Check out my blog here: http://www.driving4answers.com/ #d4a #sodablasting #diy

Soda blasting gun I use: https://amzn.to/2BlI6kw In the video you can see all the parts of my setup, ther specs and watch them in action. Watch in 1080p. I was attracted to soda blasting because of its many benefits. Unfortunately you always get what you pay for and an air blower gun and a piece of hose will only get you so far. In order to get the real benefits of soda blasting you need something more serious. After a lot of trial and error I found out that this setup is the best combination of investment and result. #d4a #sodablasting #diy D4A is part of the amazon associates program

So, here's the reason why I haven't been able to work on the MR2 recently and haven't made any new videos. We sold our daily driver - our good ol' Nissan Micra. Without a car I was unable to get to the garage where the MR2 is and work on it. The garage is actually quite far away from where I live. Talk about dedication. To honor the departure of our good friend the Micra I decided to make a little video from the scraps of footage I had on the PC. It's not much but its from the heart :) In the 4 years we had the car, it never broke down and never gave absolutely any trouble. The most reliable car I have seen. It was slow, leaned in the corners like a van but it was ridiculously practical, reliable, cheap to maintain and was a real charmer. A new daily driver is coming soon so I will be able to get back to working on the MR2 and finally put it back on the road. Thanks for all the support and a thank you to all my subscribers (All 88 of them :)! #d4a #micra #nissan #micrak12

Don't want to spend a fortune on a DSLR car mount? Make your own for less than half the price of stuff offered in stores. Sorry for the brief departure from the MR2 content. I have been a little busy and couldn't spend time in the garage, so I used my free time at home to make this suction cup DSLR car holder. I figured I was going to need something like this once my Toyota MR2 is ready for driving. I checked out the prices online and I didn't like them. After looking at some pictures I realized I could make this myself. Supplies - Glass pane suction holder / suction dent puller - Threader kit - Cheap car camera holder (metal body) Watch the video to see how to make it. Spend $30 insted of $90 Music: Stoned Troopers - Dolphin

Part 2 of my Toyota C50 transmission rebuild and restoration series. In this video I show you how to remove auxiliary parts from my Toyota C50 transmission such as the transmission mounts, the shifter lever, the clutch slave cylinder assembly, etc. I also take a peek inside the transmission to asses the damage to the fifth gear and sleeve. Watch part 1 here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqfRrFfuwEs Watch part 3 here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_TOk0ClosQ Check out my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Thanks for watching. Subscribe if you want more DIY, 4AGE and MR2 Music: Franks P - Universe #d4a #transmission #rebuild #howto #diy #toyota #c50 #c52 #aw11 #mr2 #mr2mk1 #corolla #celica #assemble #disassemble

Part 1 of my Toyota C50 transmission rebuild and restoration series. In this video I show you the differences between the C50 and C52 Toyota transmissions and all the parts and part numbers that I will be using for my full Toyota C50 transmission rebuild. Watch part 2 here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=waVh8iE0DgA Watch part 3 here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_TOk0ClosQ You can watch all my videos in HD 1080p Check out my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Thanks for watching. Subscribe if you want more DIY, 4AGE and MR2 Music: Klave - Eurodancer #d4a #transmission #rebuild #howto #diy #toyota #c50 #c52 #aw11 #mr2 #mr2mk1 #corolla #celica #assemble #disassemble

A step-by-step video tutorial showing you how to balance your pistons yourself. Done on a set of cast Toyota 4age smallport pistons. The same procedure can be applied to many other pistons. A balanced engine runs smoother, produces less vibration, is capable of higher max rpms and copes better with higher power outputs and high rpms. Balancing is especially important for high revving naturally aspirated petrol engines such as the Toyota 4AGE. They may be a thing of the past, but nothing beats a well-built, smooth, high revving naturally aspirated petrol engine in terms of responsiveness and sheer driving pleasure. The crankshaft, flywheel, clutch pressure plate and crankshaft pulley are dynamically balanced - i.e. require special machinery. Pistons and connecting rods are statically balanced - i.e. it can be done at home with some simple tools. So why not give it a try and learn and save money in the process. More MR2 and 4age stuff: http://www.driving4answers.com/ An article on crankshaft, flywheel, clutch pressure plate and crankshaft pulley balancing: http://www.driving4answers.com/crankshaft-crank-pulley-flywheel-and-clutch-pressure-plate-balancing/ #d4a #pistonbalancing #diy #pistons #4age #mr2 #ae86 #jdm #4age16v #aw11 #driving4answers #mr2mk1

Watch in HD. A step by step video showing you how to paint your valve covers with a wrinkle finish. I used VHT wrinkle plus paint in red. Watch the video to see how its done. Check out my site for more 4AGE and MR2: http://www.driving4answers.com/ #d4a #valveovers #vht #diy #paint #wrinklepaint #4age #mr2 #ae86 #jdm #4age16v #aw11 #driving4answers #mr2mk1

Resurfacing process of my 4AGE 20v blacktop flywheel, which I plan to install on my bigport 4age. Check out my website for more MR2 and 4AGE content and fun: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Like my FB page: https://www.facebook.com/driving4answers #d4a #flywheel #resurfacing #4age #mr2 #mr2mk1 #ae86 #jdm #4age16v #aw11 #driving4answers

A step by step video about the rust removal, restoration and painting of my 4AGE 16v bigport EGR (exhaust gas re-circulation) assembly. 05:18 - step 1 - mechanical rust removal 08:29 - step 2 - chemical rust removal 09:59 - step 3 - painting underbody black 12:17 - step 4 - painting valve housing and pipes silver 14:53 - step 5 - baking the high temp paint 15:48 - step 6 - admiring the results Check out my site for more 4AGE and MR2 content: http://www.driving4answers.com/ Link to the diy cardboard box and aluminum foil paint baking oven: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21AsnM71YM0 Like my FB page: https://www.facebook.com/driving4answers

A step by step video showing you how to restore your old rusted 4age spark plug valley cover. Step 1: Paint removal with heat gun - 02:25 Step 2: Rust removal with wire brush attachment - 04:36 Step 3: Degreasing and painting with high temp spray paint - 05:39 Step 4: Paint baking - 08:43 Cardboard box and aluminum foil diy oven for paint baking paint: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21AsnM71YM0 My blog (MR2 mk1 aw11 and 4AGE fun and info: http://www.driving4answers.com/

Some old footage I dug up today. This was before I took the engine out and decided to do a full rebuild, which is what I am doing at the moment. Everything is stock except the intake air filter. The engine wasn't in such a bad shape but it was sub-par. Shims need adjusting, oil leaking a bit and the throttle body needs servicing. In the last part of the video notice how the shifting from 1st to 2nd is poor and makes a nasty grinding noise. I am doing a full rebuild of the transmission as well. I uploaded this for reference to be able to compare once I rebuild and put everything back together. Even in this condition the 4AGE is still a gem and sounds beautiful. Check out my blog to watch my restoration journey with my MR2. Lots of other useful and interesting stuff: http://www.driving4answers.com/

VHT and other high temperature paints require baking in order to attain their properties. If you need to bake high temperature paint onto metal this is the simplest and cheapest way to do it without making your home and kitchen oven smell bad and contaminate the food you prepare in it. Make a simple oven from a cardboard box, aluminum foil and a heat gun. Works like a charm.

A step by step video of my restoration and painting of the distributor heat shield from my 4AGE MR2 mk1. I cleaned, removed all the rust, painted it with high temperature paint and baked the paint on. The steps: Step 1: Cleaning and rust removal - 3:14 Step 2: Prepping for paint, degreasing - 11:14 Step 3: Painting - 11:26 Step 4: Baking the paint - 19:36 A video of my DIY aluminum foil, cardboard box and heat gun oven for baking high temperature paint on parts: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21AsnM71YM0 Check out my blog for more mr2 and 4age tips and fun: http://www.driving4answers.com/

A short video showing how to separate a piston from a connecting rod. Demonstrated on a 4age 16v bigport piston and connecting rod. This is a task that may seem simple at first, but often the wrist pin doesnt come out of the piston so easily. In order to get it out some boiling is in order. Check out my blog for more 4AGE and mr2 fun: http://www.driving4answers.com/

In this video I show you that third generation Honda Prelude rings are a perfect fit for the 4AGE 16v smallport pistons The Honda engine is a 2.0 liter and the 4AGE a 1.6 liter. Both engines have the same bore which makes this work. Piston ring specifications are also the same. 1st compression ring - 1.2mm 2nd compression ring 1.5mm oil ring - 2.8mm Honda prelude rings are much easier to find than smallport rings. You can get them at reasonable prices from well known brands. For more 4AGE and MR2 fun visit my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/ and dont forget to subscribe

In this video I show you the differences between the 4AGE 16V bigport and smallport pistons. The most obvious difference of course being the piston dome and cutouts for the oil cooler jets that can be found on the smallport pistons. There are also differences in the ring grooves and some other minor stuff. bigport compression ratio - 9.4:1 smallport compression ratio - 10.3:1 For more 4AGE and MR2 mk1 fun check out my blog: http://www.driving4answers.com/

Check out my blog for more MR2, 4AGE and other automotive fun! http://www.driving4answers.com/ In this video I show you a simple, easy, cheap and fast DIY method to measure your combustion chamber volume. You need to know your combustion chamber volume in order to be able to know your compression ratio. Compression ratio is important for engine performance and power output as well as efficiency. Full article on compression ratio and how to measure the compression ratio for the 4age 16v bigport (and other engines): http://www.driving4answers.com/compression-ratio-calculate/ p.s. please ignore my slipper boots

Check out my blog for more MR2 mk1 and 4AGE content. http://www.driving4answers.com/ A video showing how to disassemble the the engine block from a Toyota 4age engine. Dropped out of my MR2 mk1 aw11. Also found in the AE86 levin and trueno corollas. I show you to remove the oil pan, oil baffle plate, oil strainer, connecting rods and pistons, main oil seal, oil pump, main bearing caps and the crankshaft.

A short video on how to remove the head from a 4AGE 16v bigport engine, as found in my MR2 mk1 (aw11). Tools you will need: Socket wrenches various sizes 12 point socket or wrench for the timing belt tensioner bolt and the head bolts - 10mm size Gear puller for crank pulley - crank pulley is 13.5 cm BGB (mr2 mk1 workshop manual/ a.k.a. big green book pages to consult): 70-76 Sorry for the nasty light changes from photo to photo :)

How to remove and restore the shifter and shifter plate on a Toyota MR2 mk1 aw11. Check out my blog for more MR2 mk1 fun and DIY videos and articles: http://www.driving4answers.com/

This is a problem I am having on my mr2 mk1. Many 4A-GE cars are bugged by one or more versions of idle problems. Either high idle, rough idle, engine cutting off. etc. In my case: when the car idles for a while the rpms start going down and the engine starts misfiring. After a few more minutes of idling the misfiring gets so bad that the engine cuts off.