This video also covers the way WS2812B single wire addressable LEDs work, and why they are horribly demanding of processor time unless it has a dedicated serial driver built in. It's notable that the high speed data requirement means that this unit has two microcontrollers. One for time and infrared functions, and one to bang out the 800Kb/sec data to the LED string. I also tested it with standard WS2812B LEDs and the bare module could be used to run other strings. I'm guessing the controller may scale back the intensity to keep the current manageable, as the LEDs are capable of passing 60mA each on full intensity white. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A faulty LED neon-style ornament with a very common problem caused by the way the internal LED tape is manufactured. There were three ways this could be fixed. Replacement of that entire section of strip, adding a feed to the other end or actually repairing the tape at the point of the failure. Obviously I chose the trickiest, since it is often the only choice in similar fault scenarios. The 5m rolls of LEDs tape you can buy are usually made of 10 x 0.5m sections joined with solder bridges. The stresses of the flexible tape can result in the solder bridges breaking, as they are quite soft. I don't recommend carrying out this type of mid-run repair on 120/240V tape or stuff exposed to weather, as it breaks the insulation of the run with a risk of water ingress causing tracking issues. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

These UVC germicidal lights will hurt you. If you expose your skin or eyes to 254nm UVC it will cause temporary damage, which can result in waking up in the middle of the night feeling like you've got sand in your eyes. It does pass though. It's very similar to what welders experience when they get incidental eye exposure to a welding arc nearby. The science suggest that while UVC may cause temporary irritation, it poses less long term risk that the longer UVB and UVA wavelengths that penetrate deeper into the skin and can potentially cause localised DNA damage. This light is intended for aquariums. Not the bit with the fish in it, as it can harm them with direct exposure, but the separate area of the tank (or external area) that has the filtering in it. The purpose of the light is to destroy waterborne nasties that could adversely affect the health of the fish. It has many other uses though, and could be used for keeping a tank of low throughput sitting water sterile. Like a rainwater tank. But for higher flow applications like a well water supply, a stronger unit is needed, which usually passes the flowing water across the surface of a longer UVC tube. The lamp could potentially be used for air sanitation and limited area bacterial, viral and mite control. The power supply is the simplest option possible for these common GTL3 bulbs. It's just basically a series capacitor that limits the AC current to the correct level. It's a common approach. The bulb itself is very novel. It operates at about 10.5V AC at around 300mA and has a filament in it with a thermally emissive coating at the ends. Initially the filament heats up red hot and when the emissive coating is hot enough it establishes a glow discharge through the mercury vapour and carrier gas. Some current still flows through the heating filament though. UVC output power is around 0.16W (160mW) which is still a lot. The quoted lifespan of 10,000 hours is too generous. While the bulb may still be lighting up at 10,000 hours it will be much less effective. These bulbs are normally rated for 2000 hours of UVC output before needing replaced. I'm not sure if the use of a capacitive current limiter is good for them, as it can cause electrode sputtering in other similar applications. These bulbs have a very long history way back to the thermionic valve/tube era. The pandemic caused a new demand for these bulbs, and as usual, greedy people price gouged them. They are not expensive. This whole unit came from AliExpress and cost just $5 plus tax. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007286558169.html I recommend using PayPal as a security layer when buying from AliX, as that way you don't send your card details to them. There are many sellers of these competing with each other, and also higher power units that don't cost much more. I like the known simplicity of the 3W unit though. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I bought this from AliExpress purely to marvel at the idea of using such a low power heater for heating an aquarium. It would have to be pretty small and have a low heating requirement. The device does potentially have other uses though, like maintaining fermentation temperature in an insulated container. The control module seems quite useful, as it's got a MOSFET rated for 2A and circuitry that could make it easy to adapt to a higher voltage like 12V. (Just change the incoming supply electrolytic capacitor.) The circuitry was more complex than expected. Especially the voltage divider used for monitoring the 10K thermistor. So if you need a low power controlled heater that can run on a low voltage supply, this might fit the bill. Here's the listing I bought it from, but there will be others too:- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005087340254.html I recommend using PayPal as a security layer with AliX, as they keep your card data (including the security number) on record. And if they have a data breach they are unlikely to confess to it. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Another of eBay's slightly exaggerated listings. This time for a 9.9 million lumen light capable of illuminating an area 300 square meters. I mean it will... But low moonlight levels at best. The solar panel is pretty big, but it's the type with silicon wafers laid into a plastic tray and coated with resin. I prefer the fibreglass panel backed ones, as I think this risks too much physical stress on the cells in direct sunlight. There is a holder for two parallel 18650 cells, populated with one of indescribably low capacity. But an upgrade could be adding one or two salvaged 18650's of a more useful capacity. You might also add a TP4056 charging and protection module for an extra layer of protection. The circuitry is what seems to be the classic type used in these units. Absolutely minimal. On a plus note, the case, LEDs and circuitry could be a good base for a project to make a better light or house other electronics. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A classic arcade style joystick that has many other applications for position control. This one brazenly states that it's a Sanwa copy. It is available with a wide range of knob colours and a couple of shapes too. The knob itself is 35mm diameter with an M6 threaded insert, so may be useful for adding a touch of colour to existing machinery. The PCB has four standard microswitches and can be mounted in four different directions. The clear plastic retainer plate that is available in other movement restricting options, also has pins that do support the microswitches when it's clipped on, reducing the stresses on the solder connections. The circlip was very tricky to remove due to the lack of space around it. With very flat tip long nose pliers and by pulling down the plunger, it may be possible to grip the back. But otherwise you would need to push it off, which is tricky with a spring loaded rotating shaft. Not that you should ever need to remove it. Here's a typical AliExpress listing:- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006881757851.html Noting that other listings will appear on the page too for more colour and shape options. So you can have a grab hold of a big pink knob if you wish. The cost is pleasingly low, because these are mass produced items for the arcade industry, for use in video games and cranes. If buying from AliExpress, I recommend using PayPal as a security buffer - because otherwise they keep all your card details on record for making instant purchases, and based on how bad their website is, I wouldn't trust them with that data. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

These bulbs literally consume less than a tenth of the power of the tungsten version, and the circuitry is very simple, with a significant amount of the power dissipated across the LEDs and the series resistors used well within their rating. The low current also means that the LED chips should last a good length of time. Especially as they seem to have a strong similarity to the ones found in high power lights, but run at a fraction of the current (2.7mA) I'd expect the 120V version to be even more efficient, as less power will be dropped across the resistors. These lights do not have smoothing, but have very low visual shimmer. I stripped the wire back and did a flame test, and I think the wire is copper coated aluminium. That doesn't seem a great idea for an IDC (Insulation Displacement) connection. Fortunately the contact current is just a few milliamps. But a lamp holder short circuit could pose issues. I got these from this AliExpress listing:- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006258542092.html They are available in either mixed colour sets, or a single colour. There is usually a choice of 120V or 220-240V. The cost is about $10 plus local taxes for a box of 25. Searching for keywords like 25pcs C7 E12 Christmas light will find many similar listings, including in white. If buying from AliExpress, I strongly recommend against giving them card details. Instead use PayPal as an extra layer of security. Let me know if you have had issues with these small holders tracking and shorting out due to water ingress. They're not normally used outdoors in the UK, but their abundance on the ecommerce sites means they are appearing a lot more. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I found this on eBay and couldn't resist bidding for it. Unsurprisingly, I was the only bidder, and the shipping was much more than the cost of the unit. It's an industrial grade ozone sanitising unit, which I think is designed to maintain sterility in food processing factories or storage areas. The unit has a heavy stainless steel case with a time switch for setting the operational times. While trying to find this exact model online, I found a picture of a wall mounted version in a large coldroom. But this variant has a handle and stout rubber feet for portable use. Unlike the common Chinese units I've looked at, this unit does not use a high frequency power supply. Instead it uses a boiler ignition transformer for the high voltage, and as a result the ozone output is much lower due to the low operating frequency of 50 or 60Hz. That also means there's less to go wrong, making it more reliable for heavy industrial use. Being a specialist product, it is well built, but still has a handmade feel to it. I have a smaller, but very similar unit that I bought many decades ago, that has a similar construction. I thought I'd made a video about it, but although it is featured on a page on my old website, I haven't made a video about it (yet!). For those people who will instantly go to the comments as soon as I say the word "ozone" to lecture me on how dangerous it is (according to an article they read in a fashion magazine), I have to state that ozone IS dangerous to breath at high levels, but an important part of natural air at low levels. This machine would be sized to achieve a slightly elevated level in a room of known size when there was low or no occupancy. Using equipment like this can increase the shelf life of food and potentially limit the presence of bad bacteria in processing areas. I think this is the company that made this unit:- https://www.biozone.co.za/ And they seem to have evolved the design over time, with smaller versions now using UVC tubes for a simpler and more compact unit. Despite being huge, this unit will be joining my collection of interesting ozone equipment. Note that my house does not smell of ozone! If I use any device like that it is usually a small trace level generator, well within safe limits. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

An unusual style of a classic device used in countries plagued by mosquitos. When in use it releases a tiny amount of pyrethrin in an oil carrier, that isn't enough to kill insects, but will cause them to go out of biting mode. That's an important thing when mosquitos cause an estimated 700,000 deaths a year globally. The origin of pyrethrins is fascinating and has a very long history. It was first noticed that a particular plant was good for keeping insects away from other plants in the vicinity. It's a variant of the chrysanthemum family of plants, and initially a pesticide was made by drying the flowers and crushing them to make a powder, but later evolved to creating an oil/resin that could be emulsified with water or mixed with oil. Once the chemistry was understood, a number of synthetic versions were made to allow easier production. This unit uses a small (0.6%) amount of cypermethrin dissolved in a refined oil carrier like isoparaffin or kerosene. It evaporates so slowly that each 45ml bottle is quoted as lasting up to 300 hours - or a month of nightly use. Unlike aerosol insect sprays that put out a concentrated burst with the intent of deactivating insects completely (fly spray), this style of unit puts out only enough to trigger a defence response in biting insects that stops them biting. Mosquitos can detect a quantity of as little as a few parts per million in air, and that is enough to deter them and make them try to leave the area. Although the pure liquid does pose a risk of toxic effects to larger mammals like pets or humans, the small amount of vapour poses virtually no risk. However, the units should not be used in very small enclosed areas with poor airflow. The plugs used to vaporise the oil are usually rated 2 or 3 watts as that is all that is needed to give a controlled amount of vapour. The low power means that many now use a USB power source, which makes the units smaller, lighter and safer. An interesting note about the Indian (Good Knight) version is that the added floral aroma did give confirmation that the vapour was diffusing throughout the room. If actually travelling somewhere that mosquitos are a genuine risk, then I recommend only buying a reputable brand of liquid or one-night tabs from a trusted source. Unfortunately that rules out the usual online suspects. Also keep in mind that the ultrasonic units are worthless and the "UV" insect traps do not attract mosquitoes, as they are following your scent and the carbon dioxide in your breath. The QR code on the Chinese bottle linked to this data page:- http://zsewm.com/21701501000000000000000123456944 If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Almost all these little countertop ice makers look virtually identical inside. It makes me wonder if they originate from the same factory, or if it's just copied by many different factories. These units are an extremely good example of a well-evolved and efficient design with minimum component count. They also inevitably have the same technical issues, and fortunately it's rare that the refrigeration system or control PCB are the problem. That makes them fairly easy to repair yourself, once you've worked out how the cover comes off. Sometimes it's from the base and sometimes from the top like this one. As always, ensure you don't finger the insides while power is applied, or leave it running with the cover off when other people may be present. Also keep in mind that the 12V supply may not be SELV (separated/safety extra low voltage) but may be FELV (functional extra low voltage) if the circuitry references it to the mains supply for economy or to directly drive things like mains voltage components. The main faults that occur with these units are:- The scoop motor jamming up due to moisture causing corrosion on its main bearing. The scoop's end of travel limit switches corroding and jamming. The water sensor getting scaled up and not detecting water flow. The water pump jamming due to ingress of dirt or hair. The condenser fan failing and causing poor ice making performance. The infrared emitter/sensor failing due to water ingress - usually the clear emitter. A dirty condenser coil due to pet hair or excessive dust resulting in poor ice making. Condensation or corrosion in the control button panel resulting in unresponsive switches. All these things are generally fixable by either cleaning or replacing components. Quick summary of how refrigeration works. Imagine a compressor with a loop of pipe going from its output to its input, and a restriction in the middle of that pipe that limits liquid flow. The compressor compresses the gaseous refrigerant, and it condenses into vapour under pressure, giving off heat in the process. That vapour condenses into liquid in the pipe and then squeezes its way through the mid-pipe restriction to the vacuum side of the compressor. As it enters the side of the pipe with a vacuum it changes from liquid to gas, and absorbs heat in the process. Then the cycle repeats. The hot gas defrost that rapidly drops the ice cubes, bypasses the condenser and its long thin capillary tube (the mid-pipe restriction) and diverts the hot vapour directly through the ice forming evaporator prongs briefly. The styrofoam insulation in the ice trough does a surprisingly good job of keeping the ice from melting too fast. There's still ice in the trough after 8 hours when the unit is not running. Any ice that does melt goes straight back into the water reservoir for reuse. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

A universal charger that seems to be aimed at small drones and other devices with swappable lithium cells. It appears to have six identical charging circuits set at 300-350mA output, keeping it within the range of a 2.1A USB power supply. The circuitry is unusual in that there are extra components to make it more stable when no cells are plugged in. But it still seems sensitive to external grounded surfaces when a typical mains powered charger is being used. I'm wondering if the 10K resistor across the LED is possibly to shunt the slight leakage through the 100K resistor, to stop the LED glowing from lithium cell backfeed when the USB power is disconnected. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is the first time I've come across LED filaments that have all the circuitry on board, and can literally be powered directly from 120V or 240V supplies. (different voltage versions) This means that the manufacturers of the classic tungsten globe strings can use the existing machines to make the new LED filament bulbs with virtually no changes. The use of a high number of LEDs also means that the bulbs are super-efficient and run at extremely low current (about 3mA) on 240V. The bulbs use a tenth of the power of traditional tungsten bulbs, just 0.7W of power for a bright sparkly appearance. They are G40 style with an E12 base. You can also get full strings of these lights with cable and bulb holders, but I'm not convinced they are suitable for outdoor use with 240V due to the risk of water ingress and tracking in the sockets. The power factor of these lights is a surprising 0.9, which is excellent. The very simple circuitry also makes them robust enough for flashing and chasing effects if used in signage. I've got some different types on their way with the same E12 base. The X-ray machine was courtesy of AvE:- https://www.youtube.com/@arduinoversusevil2025 Here's a link to the listing I bought the lights from. There are other sellers of the same lights. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007172874748.html I recommend using PayPal as a security layer when buying from AliExpress, as they keep too much card information to allow instant purchases. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A neat little button that can be used to clone an existing fixed-code RF remote control of the same frequency. This one is for 433MHz. Note that it cannot be used to clone vehicle fobs, as they usually use a code that changes continuously for security. I missed the crystal/resonator from the schematic. It goes between the RF transmitter chip and the zero volt power rail. (ground) The receiver in the video can actually be used with several different remotes, each with their own code. But the purpose of this video is to demonstrate cloning an existing remote, so the receiver does not need to be accessed. When I first got this I thought I'd been sent a plain fixed code unit, as there were no instructions for programming it. I did the usual long press, multi-press things and then stumbled on the proper programming method accidentally. Here's how it's done. Click the button four times, holding it on continuously on the fourth click. After a delay it will start flashing and then go static and can be released at that point. Hold the original remote to be copied next to the unit and press both their buttons at once. The button's LED will blink twice, and then it will flicker and go static when it has received a valid code. The button will now replay that code when pressed. A couple of interesting things in this circuit. Firstly the use of a microcontroller that seems to be a PIC clone. And secondly the RF receiving circuitry, which is very minimal, but has a bizarre two transistor circuit just to switch it on. Possibly from a universal schematic for using a wider range of supply voltages. I bought this button from an AliExpress seller. Try the keywords 433MHZ cloning button. Note that RF remote control frequency standards differ between countries, so you should get a matching set for a locally allowed frequency. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

So cheap, but yet actually quite an interesting and functional design. This is an emergency light designed to be connected to the mains supply, and light automatically when the power fails. The design is all on a single sided circuit board, and actually quite clever. Especially the way they've integrated the control and charging circuitry in amongst the grid of parallel LEDs. The unit uses a lithium cell, and the most interesting discrete component charging circuitry I've seen, that still manages to cap the charge voltage at 4.17V with just a transistor, resistor and zener diode. This is another design that suggests that the person who designed it knew their stuff and probably had fun cramming it all onto a cheap single sided PCB. If you live in a 230V country, then changing the red 680nF dropper capacitor to a lower value will take some of the stress off the main zener diode, and give even lower power consumption. Here's a listing link for those who were requesting it:- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005684168396.html The current draw at 4.2V, 3.6V and 3V are as follows:- 4.2V = HI-170mA LO-106mA 3.6V = HI-120mA LO-73mA 3.0V = HI-84mA LO-51mA The capacity of the lithium cell tested as 400mAh. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The classic glowing thumbs trick has been around a very long time. It's very commonly sold in magic shops, but this version is the new turbo remix that uses a rechargeable lithium cell to absolutely blast current through an LED for short bursts of time. The module has no PCB. It's literally hand-made on a thin sliver of plastic with hot melt glue holding everything together, and the connections are hard wired with thin wire that then has more glue on it. The entire assembly is then covered in heat shrink sleeve, with holes cut for the LED, charge port and button, and the other end of the sleeve closed with pliers while still hot, before being cropped flush. The 400909 lithium cell has no protection, partly to save space and because it might trip with the spikes of LED current. The primary use of the cell appears to be in bluetooth earbuds. It's quite hard to test the actual LED current, since the meter leads and internal current shunt may limit the current. You can find these on AliExpress if you search for keywords like magic thumb. I'm not sure how the massive current spikes will affect the lithium cell. They will probably shorten its lifespan at least, but then, it's only used for brief bursts of light. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Your car's braking system uses hydraulic pressure to activate the pistons that push the brake pads against the rotors. It's important that the fluid is routinely checked for progressive moisture absorption, as the fluid is usually glycol based and very hygroscopic. Water contamination of the glycol can result in a lower boiling point and liberation of bubbles of gas in use. That gas is more compressible than liquid, so it can make the brakes less effective. This tester can be dipped into the brake fluid reservoir to give an instant indication of the fluid's condition, by measuring its electrical conductivity. This unit used very different circuitry than I was expecting. It took a surprising amount of time to reverse engineer it. The unit claims to be suitable for DOT3, 4 and 5 brake fluid, although DOT 5 is actually oil based. I wonder if they mean DOT5.1 which is glycol based. On closer examination, the markings on the side are a measurement scale in mm. Maybe to indicate depth in the liquid. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Although intended for power tools, this module will also be useful for equipment with 5-cell lithium battery packs, commonly referred to as 18V batteries or sometimes 21V batteries. The circuitry is very basic, with just four LEDs with resistors and zener diodes in series with them so they light at vague thresholds, and a small MOSFET with simple timer circuit to hold the display lit for a few seconds after the button is released. For a specialist application you could swap the zener diodes for custom thresholds. As supplied, the LEDs light up at the following thresholds:- 1 = 2.5V and above. It just has a resistor in series with the LED. 2 = 17.5V and above. That equates to an individual cell voltage of 3.5V. (10-20% charge) 3 = 18V and above. That equates to an individual cell voltage of 3.6V (30-40% charge) 4 = 19.3V and above. That equates to an individual cell voltage of 3.9V. (75% and above) Because the voltage across the zener and LED will vary with current, there is a slight ramp of intensity with voltage at each threshold. These modules are compatible with some generic Chinese power tool batteries, but in some cases the blanking plate where they go is actually moulded into the plastic. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is quite a handy little panel. It would be perfect for adding a splash of light in the back of equipment where a spare USB connection was available, or with a spare charger as a power source. Even the biggest panel has a fairly low power rating of 2.5W. But that still provides a useful level of light. The LEDs are also being used well within the current rating, and the resistors are not being stressed either. The style of the PCB also means it could be retrofitted into an outdoor floodlight casing for off-grid applications where a low level floodlight is needed. If you choose to solder wires directly to the panel, it will need preheated first to make soldering easier, as it is an aluminium core PCB. I got this from AliExpress for about $1. It was part of their "choice" range that gives free shipping when the goods total is above $10. Here's the listing I got it from, but note that you can usually find other sellers if this one hikes the price up. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006401939984.html Note that when they say "8 pcs" they mean the number of LEDs and not the number of complete PCBs you will receive. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A fairly attractive variant on the chemical air aromatizers often called air fresheners. More suited to masking bad odours than getting rid of the base problem. This one has a very futuristic design and pleasingly minimal control PCB. The best bit of the listing was when it said the unit could be used to "impress your friends and make them smell very good when they visit." As with the high profile Air Wick units, this one also has an oil based excipient (carrier) for the aroma chemicals. The base for these seems to be related to low odour kerosene. The method of dispersion is ultrasonic atomisation via a lithium cell powered drive circuit and piezo atomising disk. The unit can be recharged with a micro USB cable, and has a few modes with different time delays between each burst of aroma, or the ill advised continuous mode. This is exactly what I was talking about when I said that the Chinese manufacturers would make their version of the Air Wick Mist with an absolutely minimalist design. I doubt you could get more minimalist than this. When it arrived the aroma bottle had a cap and foil seal, but the wick was supplied separately. The neck of the bottle did not fit into the unit at all until it had been filed down in size to fit. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is not a sponsored video. I feel it's important that people should know about this evolving technology, and Naomi is working on making it affordable. During the pandemic YouTuber Naomi Wu presented plans for traditional mercury vapour based UVC sterilising lights with a special housing, to sterilise air in a room without exposing the occupants to the 254nm UVC light. With the evolution and availability of the new era 222nm excimer lamps, Naomi has gone on to design a full product designed to be easy and convenient to deploy in populated areas like medical practices, waiting rooms, retail environments, food preparation areas and live events. The special feature of the 222nm wavelength is that it is long enough to deactivate viral and bacterial air contaminants, but short enough not to pass through the outer layer of dead skin or the tear-layer of humans. That means that it is currently considered safe to use in occupied areas. The filter on the front of the light seems to specifically pass 222nm. Without it there is a very slight hump in the spectral output at around 237nm. The filter attenuates that completely. Excimer is an abbreviation of Excited-Dimer, where a dimer is the joining of two molecules. In the case of the excimer lamps the molecules are encouraged to bond temporarily in a plasma discharge, and when they revert back to their non-excited state they emit a photon of light at a specific wavelength determined by the chemistry. In this case it's molecules of Krypton and Chlorine that form brief molecules of Krypton-Chloride (KrCl), before reverting back and emitting 222nm photons in the process. The process of creating the plasma is very similar to dielectric barrier ozone generators. By coupling to the gasses capacitively the lamp also avoids contaminating the gasses with the electrode materials. Note that the unit uses 500mA at 12V (6W) but has a generously rated 12W power supply that runs cool. This technology looks like it may be valuable in medical, care, travel or social environments to limit the spread of pathogens. Here's a link to Naomi's pleasingly-named online shop:- https://cybernightmarket.com/products/nukit-lantern-far-uvc-light

There's probably a legitimate use for these things. But I'm not sure what it is yet. You plug it into a suitably rated (2A) USB power supply, load standard PLA filament and can then doodle with a stream of molten plastic. The circuitry is VERY cost optimised with the buttons and LEDs most likely being multiplexed on the same pins as the LCD display. But other than that it contains what you'd expect. An H-bridge motor driver, MOSFET for the heater and a voltage regulator for the microcontroller. I started doing a full reverse engineering on this, but after my sharp meter probe had slipped off a microscopic resistor connection for the 50th time I stopped. This thing is surprisingly well made for the cost. It has a custom ceramic heater tip and a robust metal filament drive system. Sorry for the lack of schematic. This video came too close to another that had taken three evenings to reverse engineer, and I just wasn't in the mood for a cryptic multiplexing system with LEDs, LCD display, buttons and analogue sensing all multiplexed onto a low pin-count microcontroller. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

It's 11 years since I first looked at a very expensive Calex branded version of this bulb. At that time they were using a capacitive dropper and had all the LEDs in series. I was expecting it to be the same, or maybe a linear regulator. But it's not. And the LED wiring arrangement is different too. Probably to make manufacturing simpler, allow a wider voltage range and also allow for the same LED structure to be adapted to different sized bulbs. These bulbs are now available at a much lower cost online, and in a wide range of colours including warm, cold and golden white, blue, ice blue, green, yellow, red, pink and purple. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

Having looked inside an odd analogue trackball, I decided it would be interesting to take my optical trackball apart and see what it looked like inside. I have always preferred using a trackball instead of a mouse, as it stays in one position on the bench and is perfect for designing PCBs and other CAD applications. This unit is quite old. I'd guess that modern ones will have the amazing mass produced single chip sensor and processor arrangement inside, and probably a different style of ball, as this one looks quite complex with its pattern of embedded dots that don't wear off. The biggest surprise in this unit was that the sensing chip did not look directly at the ball surface. The lens was coupled to a prism arrangement that deflected the image 90 degrees. I wonder if that was to facilitate easier mounting of the infrared LEDs, or maybe just repurposing an existing optical assembly from a mouse, where the sensor was mounted vertically on a PCB. Once I had cleaned and reassembled this unit it worked absolutely fine as it had before. There are quite a few different trackball devices available online, mostly quite expensive compared to a mouse input device. It appears that you can buy replacement balls for prominent models on AliExpress. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

It literally took me three evenings to reverse engineer this unit. The circuitry is very complex, but also very well designed. Unlike the previous horrifically dangerous unit I looked at, this one has the outputs isolated from the incoming mains supply. It's still 300V though, so can still give an odd DC zap if you get complacent with it. The soft start is very simple, but very neat. The regulator chip that limits the current through the LEDs is very impressive in that it can handle a short circuit as standard. There were two extra features I was unaware of. A low voltage mode for finding polarity of LEDs without risking damage to them, and a higher current mode that steps up from the standard 20mA current to 50mA after about 10 seconds when you are testing higher voltage LED arrays. There are lots of clever quirks in the circuitry that were quite enjoyable to decipher. Especially the way the main power supply chip is actually an LED driver being used with an opto-isolated feedback hack on its overvoltage protection pin, normally used for detecting an open circuit load. I did test the other unit, and it too has the 18V feature selected in the same way. But it doesn't have the higher current mode. To toggle between the 300V and 18V modes you hold the leads together until the display flashes bars. Very clever design. Both frustrating and a treat to reverse engineer. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

When I bought this I knew the remote control light puck was going to be small. It seems to be a common thing with these devices. But the ball itself can accommodate a custom light and power supply, so it can be made better. Perhaps even modified to have a remote solar panel. The circuitry did throw up a couple of surprises though. Notably the LED that was completely upside down. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Not completely what I was expecting. I thought there might be a traditional electronic ballast for the tube, and while there is, it is somewhat simpler than I thought it would be. The zappy bit lacks the zest normally found in the eBay versions, and the manual is basically just warnings not to open the unit or let children play with it, so they may have tamed it down for that reason. Interesting ballast though, and while the zapper section took longer than expected to reverse engineer, it is fairly conventional. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I added these to an order from AliExpress to check out how they looked and what the circuitry was like. The circuitry isn't too bad, with an unusual control chip. My only real issue is that they have done the common thing of pushing the intensity to the max, when this type of bulb seems more suited to low level decorative use. The LED filament in the simpler shape bulb did have quite a strong band of blue light from the LED chips under the phosphor. Here's the listing I ordered the bulbs from, but note that I also ordered a star which had a section of LEDs out in it, so the quality isn't guaranteed. The listing may act as a springboard to other similar sellers. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003357188330.html If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Aside from the very odd translation in the listing for this light, it appears that the extra cost-cut version has been stripped back to such a bare minimum that it has stability issues. That's a big issue, since they have skimped to the point of removing the on/off switch, so the unit is active from the point it's assembled at the factory. When this one arrived its battery had been seriously over-discharged due to it turning on and off repeatedly while in its box. Theoretically the box should block the PIR sensor from seeing movement completely, but I think it has created a situation where the sensor chips gain goes so high that it starts being affected by low level ambient electrical noise. It's not helped by the fact that there is no current limiting resistor for the LEDs, so the controller chip may be having thermal issues too, and the way its power is routed via the high current LED path also adds instability because the voltage will spike upwards when the LEDs turn off. I tried the following things to try and solve the oversensitivity problem. I added a 5.6 ohm resistor in series with the LEDs. Still false triggered. I added a 22uF capacitor in parallel with the existing decoupling cap. Still false triggered. I broke the positive track shared with the LED circuit and ran a direct link. Still false triggered. The one thing that did seem to solve the problem was to put the unit on charge while in the box, suggesting that the battery voltage fluctuation and recovery when the LEDs turn off may have been an issue. That suggests that the cell impedance might be high because of the low capacity. The charger was able to provide a more stable voltage under load. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

They may just be kids (or adults) toys, but some of the bubble blowing machines are very clever. It makes me think that there might be someone whose full time job is designing mechanisms for these things. This one is very neat. It has a motor with the fan on one end and the other end geared to turn a peristaltic pump and also a wiper arm. The pump uses rotating rollers to squeeze liquid through a tube to a port in the bubble producing section, and the arm then wipes that around the perimeter to create a film that the air then blows into bubbles. Because the feed and drain tubes are sealed into the bubble fluid reservoir, and because some of the fluid is being blown out as bubbles, there is a net difference that results in the drain tube pulling the excess liquid back down into the reservoir. The bubble fluid is mainly water with a small percentage of surfactant and a tiny amount of a thickening agent to make the bubbles stronger. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

We've had a few of these "farting ninja" toys positioned around the job. They detect changes in ambient light levels and make one of several farting noises. I got this one just to blow up for our amusement. It took two goes (I'd left the power switch off the first time.) The farting noises before and after internal detonation are coming from the purple one next to the pink one. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A look at the remnants of the insides of a farting ninja after it has been connected to 240V. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A trackball is like an inverted mouse. You scroll about on your screen by rolling the ball about with your hand. The best types have a patterned ball that is free to spin in front of an optical movement sensor. (I use a Kensington trackball.) This one is very different from the normal type with optical encoders, because it was designed to work with an existing analogue gaming input to what I would guess was a PC's 15 pin game/MIDI port. It was probably intended for games like Missile Command by Atari (which used an optical system in the arcade machines.) I got this one many decades ago as surplus stock, and I get the feeling it had not proven a success in the area it was aimed at, which I think was gaming. The meshing tolerance of the cogwheels is probably a big factor here. Too tight and they could cause the ball to slip on the rollers, too loose and they wouldn't mesh properly. Unfortunately it looks like they may have gone a bit too loose on the tolerance. Keep in mind that this was an era where they didn't have the same precision 3D modelling CAD we have now. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Sorry for the autofocus hunting, I had been recording "on the go" previously and forgot it was enabled. This is the long range antenna I used to take with me while travelling with work. It was rare to find accommodation with included Internet access at that time, and a mobile connection was absolutely not viable in that era. So I used to scan the neighbourhood for Internet cafes and sneak onto their network at night. I did also go to the same cafes during the day - partly to get the password, but also to give them business with coffee and cake to make me feel better about using their connection at night. It was just used for collecting email, minimal browsing and collecting the latest posts from newsgroups and mailing lists with Demon's Turnpike software. (That's how long ago it was.) Huge shout out to Demon Internet for making Internet access viable in the early days. Demon were the victim of a professional troll and the greedy legal system trying to find a way to make cash from this new fangled Internet thing. The troll routinely provoked reactions on mailing lists and then demanded that Demon take down all the messages he didn't like. He then sued them when they refused, and won a significant settlement. These days that would be recognised as a serious misuse of the legal system and a very poor decision by the naive judge and jury on that case, who clearly had no understanding of the Internet. It was probably a major factor in Demon's downfall. Another example of how the profit-motivated legal system has become a massive burden on society and technological progress. In my opinion Demon Internet were one of the most important things that happened in UK Internet history. Thankfully, these days work accommodation and the work sites themselves have high speed connections as standard, and mobile connectivity is also very viable. The antenna itself? That's RF voodoo. At the frequencies involved (2.4GHz) all usual electrical rules go out the window. The design of antennas like this is a specialist area of the electronic industry. I'll make a wild guess that it's a form of dipole antenna optimised to one wavelength or a division thereof. I'm expecting the RF experts to weigh in on the comment section and talk RF rocket science. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I initially thought the clever bottle locking feature was to prevent people from refilling it. But I've now found out that they do a different version with a bottle of prallethrin based insecticide, and the design is effectively a childproof lock on the bottle to stop kids drinking the contents. They do actually tell you to push the bottle in hard to unscrew it, as I showed. Interestingly, the bottle style is very similar to Indian mosquito plugs that I've looked at before. These units use a lemongrass and eucalyptus oil to act as a deterrent to flying insects. I'm not sure how effective that is versus a transfluthrin vaporiser. The use of the phrase "holistic remedy" is a bit suspicious. It implies it is intended to be used alongside other products, but may not be effective on its own. The design of the fixed output heater block is quite neat. It's odd to see a custom ceramic heater like that. Let me know if you've used one of these, and how effective it was. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I bought a cheap air fryer from ASDA to take apart for our entertainment. And also to see if it had any interesting components inside that could find other uses. It's actually full of useful parts for specific projects. The construction and airflow was different to what I was expecting. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Quite a simple, but interesting device. This is a ball-themed puck that slides across the ground on a bed of air like a hovercraft. The circuitry isn't complex, but the physical construction is quite interesting. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I think this is the first time I've been near a UK chain called Home Bargains. They had some very interesting garden lighting stuff. I was expecting this to have the very common circuitry found in eBay and amazon products, but it turns out to have much better circuitry inside. Not sure why I was looking for the dusk sensor when it was almost certainly going to be the solar panel. The unit seems to have just an on-state and off-state. When on it lights at a low level at dusk, but brightens when it senses movement. It's also notable that they recommend bringing the light in and storing it in a warm dry place in winter to avoid the liability of lithium cells being charged at sub-zero temperatures. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A ride and spin in the built in lift/elevator on our crane. Quite a height and slightly disconcerting when the single wire rope lift clunks over each of the telescoping sections of its track.

This is a good example of a product being optimised for mass production to keep the price low. It works fine as a light, but you can't change the "bulbs" so when one of the many LEDs inside fails, the whole thing will go to landfill. At least this light has a plug and socket so you don't have to physically wire in a new fixture when it fails. I'm sure there is a datasheet for the chip, but a quick search found nothing but false promises on datasheet websites. I did find one fuzzy low resolution schematic that did help though. My eco warrior comment is aimed at the companies using "eco" marketing to sell unserviceable short lived landfill that generates lots of profit. Like LED street lights for instance. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Another gift for our teardown pleasure from Vince the crew-chief, which he picked up while on his regular international travels. This time it's an in-car incense burner which he bought while working in Qatar. Quite why you would want this level of incense smoke inside a car is debatable, but nonetheless it works and has a very interesting flat heater. The initial smoke from the unit before incense had been added, was probably the heat burning off the mica binder. The heater is quite interesting, with a square of mica with the heating wire wound around it, and sandwiched between two slightly larger mica squares with rivets to hold all three layers together. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This interesting device came from a store called Home Bargains, near to where I'm currently working. They actually have quite an interesting range of garden lighting and technical devices. I think the main feature of this is that it's a beer trap which lures bugs in with a sweet yeasty smell. The blue solar powered LED may have some functionality, but it seems more of a gimmick. Especially with such a high inductor value in the boost circuit, which means it will not be bright. I'd guess the main insects attracted by this trap will be wasps and flies. But I'm not sure if it'll be effective against biting insects that tend to home in on the warm moist carbon dioxide exhaled by humans and other mammals. The design is fairly nice, and with a bit of extra waterproofing, the solar circuitry should last for a while. It's very hard to remove from the lid though, with very tight clips. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A new variant on the Air Wick mist diffuser, that glows brightly as it mists out aroma. The aroma is based on a very refined low-toxicity oil based carrier (isoparaffin) with highly concentrated aroma chemicals that are either synthesised or refined from natural plant oils. The oil travels up a wick and is atomised into a fine mist by an ultrasonic disk. The mist imparts a strong aroma into the air despite using only a tiny amount of the oil. While experimenting, I diluted a blend of essential oils with low odour white spirit, and had good aroma results. This was purely experimental, and is not recommended. Even though the quantity atomised is very small, it is still a fine haze of oil in the air. The circuitry is very similar to the previous version, with a crystal controlled microcontroller or dedicated chip. It allows the setting of various aroma strengths by determining the run time on each aroma time cycle. When turned on it runs for 8 hours and then sleeps for 16 hours to save liquid. The circuitry uses a boost circuit to create 12V for the atomiser circuit, and interestingly, the control chip is initially powered from the battery directly, but gets powered from the boost circuit while it is active. Possibly to avoid instability due to the battery voltage dropping under load. The LED placement, reflector and ribbed diffuser gives a strong visual effect. Note that the oil bottles have a child proof cap on them. To remove the cap you have to press down on it hard while rotating it. Those with a delicate grip strength may need to ask for the assistance of a fried with a harder grip to assist in the initial opening. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I bought this device locally. It's a tall cone with a spinning holographic blade on top that seems to deter flies with its movement and colours. Aside from the case being perfect for an ioniser or other projects, the unit contains a small circuit board with a very simple and intriguing bit of circuitry. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Most of these lights are fairly complicated, and have multiple PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) dimming modes. But this one has gone for a very basic approach with just a single intensity and on/off functionality - despite using a microcontroller. That does mean there's no annoying PWM flicker though. The most interesting feature is that the microcontroller is monitoring the lithium cell voltage independently, and can shut off the 4056-based charging circuit. That means it has double protection against overcharging of the lithium cell, but can also theoretically shut the charge off before 4.2V. I've not been able to test the charge termination voltage yet, as long work hours mean that it's tricky to do a supervised test of the full charge and discharge cycles. The easiest hack to do on this light is to snap some of the resistors off the LED panel. I experimentally chopped two of four off and the intensity is still very useful, but the battery run time will be doubled and the LEDs will be running much cooler, which is good for efficiency and lifespan. It's actually quite a nice little light. It seems to be genuinely weather resilient due to a decent front seal and a rubber cover for the USB C charge port. It may be viable to add another parallel 18650 cell, but I've not tested that. Although the cell inside is labelled as being 2200mAh, I've run several charge discharge cycles and the input charge is only around 1000mAh. That suggests that a good upgrade might be to use a better cell. It seems odd that the cell is seemingly lower capacity than stated. Especially for a LIDL product. I'll be taking it back to my lab soon for a proper capacity test. With suitable preheating equipment you could swap the LEDs for other colours if desired for garden lighting. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A look at the surge suppression module inside a Pifco extension. Pifco is a classic British electrical brand that used to make things like vibratory massage devices and Christmas lights. I'm not sure who owns the brand now. The design of the module in this is good. It has signs that the person who designed it was aiming for good electrical separation, and it does use a gas discharge tube for extra isolation on the earth/ground connection, and has decent MOVs (Metal Oxide Varistors) or VDRs (Voltage Dependent Resistors.) It also has a sensible power/protection indicator that should last a long time. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Vince the crew chief routinely travels around the world working on events. While in Cambodia he bought this rechargeable flashlight for us to take apart. The circuitry is very minimalist but still allows a rechargeable battery to be charged directly from the mains via slide out plug prongs. The use of a miniature lead acid battery (the acid is usually soaked into a fibre in these), means that charging can be implemented as a basic trickle charger, with the battery venting the electrolyte slowly as gas at the end of the charge cycle. For this reason they recommend charging the flashlight for less than 15 hours. If left charging continuously, the lead acid cell would gradually lose all its electrolyte as gas and go high impedance, with the simple charging circuit putting out a higher and higher voltage. Sealed lead acid batteries are also very prone to damage through electrode sulphation when over-discharged, so they recommend charging the unit as soon as possible if the LEDs go dim, and topping the charge up every two months when not in use. The instructions also warn against using the flashlight while charging as "Otherwise it would burn the electric stuff and elements." The very simple charge circuit means that this unit will also charge on 120V, albeit at a lower current. They claim a run time of 48 hours when fully charged, but in reality the light will start bright and rapidly get much dimmer. After 48 hours of use it will be a very dull glow at best. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The circuitry in dimmable LED bulbs is much more complex than non dimmable ones, because they have to interpret the chopped up sinewave as an intensity. The modern bulbs like this one do it by using a current regulator to charge the main capacitor, so that the duty cycle of the sinewave affects the voltage the capacitor charges to. In this case, an extra auto adjusting component has been added that then scales the LED current down to match the reduced charging of the main capacitor by detecting excessive ripple current. I'm not sure what the chip in this circuit actually is. It has a code that suggests it is batch marked for a bulb manufacturer. My apologies for the sound and filming background. I'm trying to make content in different work-accommodation that has no good "studio" area. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

One of the best bits about this product is the large diffused globe with matching base. Aside from customising the colour and intensity, it could be adapted to make a simple USB powered night light, or even a glowing pendant light with an alternative power source. I've included an openscad script at the bottom of this description. It can be used to create a base for this light to allow it to sit on a windowsill or table. The script has variables that can be adjusted to make it suitable for many other things too. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. //Poundland big solar globe base //You can adjust the following four sizes basedia=75; //Diameter of base base=2; //Thickness of base pildia=21; //Diameter of pillar height=50; //Total height //do not adjust anything below here $fn=100; difference(){ union(){ //base cylinder(h=base,d=basedia); //globe stem cylinder(h=height,d=pildia); //strengthening taper translate([0,0,base]) cylinder(h=2,d1=pildia+4,d2=pildia); } //hollow centre //for closed base, change -1 to base translate([0,0,-1]) cylinder(h=height+2,d=pildia-2.4); }

A very interesting and stylish variant on the classic air ioniser. These units are designed to impart an electrostatic charge into the ambient air to encourage microscopic dust, pollen, spores, viruses and bacteria to precipitate out to surrounding surfaces. This unit has a generous multiplier and unusual aspects to its design. It's a real ionizer - not an ozone generator, although very tiny amounts of ozone and other short lived active air molecules will be generated in use. Well below the level that occurs in natural outdoor air. It can be improved greatly by plugging one or more carbon fibre tufts onto the emitter needles so they stick up above the case. It looks like they were hedging their bets with the design, as there is a space in the base for a resin potted ionizer module. Maybe for use in 120V countries where the multiplier is less practical. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

When I originally made a video about these units I was warned that they tended to go pop and fail after several uses. I was hoping one of them would, so we could find what was failing. This is probably why they were being sold off cheaply, but it seems strange that they spent so much time and effort designing the product without having a failure during testing. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Some cheap LED indicator modules for use inside industrial panels. The circuitry is simple, and as usual it pushes some components to their limits. If I used these in a panel at 220V upwards I'd probably add another sleeved 100K resistor externally to make them last longer. Especially if they were being used continuously. They should work fine on 120V, albeit at a lower intensity. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Although seemingly used in many Chinese factories, this unit is not compliant with electrical standards in "safer" countries. It's described as an explosion proof tester - but that doesn't mean it can be used in high risk explosive environments. It just means it has a series load option that prevents faulty devices exploding, by limiting the current through them. As with all these Chinese factory test boxes, they take a rather slack attitude to electrical safety, and the lack of polarity, exposed bulb threads and misuse of speaker connectors for 220V (China's supply voltage) means that the unit poses a shock risk to the unwary. Still better than the two nails in a bench I've seen being used to test bulbs in some factory videos. I suppose that one of the screw-in ceramic vivarium heaters could be used as a safety load too if the tungsten bulb it's designed for is hard to get. These units are sold on AliExpress as LED bulb testers. But I really can't recommend them for safety reasons. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

An experiment to see how many LEDs in series a standard solar garden light can drive with its boost circuit. In the past I've hacked existing lights with two LEDs to give more colour options, but I've never tested the maximum number of LEDs that will work. There's an advantage to using at least two in series, in that the classic gallium nitride LEDs often fail with a shunt resistance. So using two in series gives redundancy to still get light and allow the NiMH cell to charge up. I'm not sure if the chip has a deliberate shunt circuit to protect it from high open circuit voltage, or if the transistor itself starts shunting at higher voltages. The cap voltage is high enough that the circuit could be used to drive 5V microcontroller circuitry. That would require the addition of a 1N4147 diode and a small capacitor (100nF) to provide smooth DC though. I also added a socket to allow the LEDs to be swapped, but past experience has shown that the contacts need well greased to avoid moisture causing surface corrosion. The grease (or lacquer) can also be applied to the PCB to protect it from moisture, and as always the switch should be bridged with a blob of solder one the light is in use, as they often fail open circuit. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Poundland is a prominent UK dollar store. This light is one of a range of very colourful solar garden lights that are kinda begging to be retrofitted with the matching colour of LED. It's fairly straightforward to swap an LED in these lights. While doing the hack I also recommend waterproofing the PCB with grease or lacquer to make it last longer, and if possible, also seal over or around the solar panel to avoid water wicking down the sides and causing its early failure through corrosion. It's also a good idea to bridge the switch contacts with a blob of solder, as the switches are a common failure point. After a full days sunlight the light was still pretty dim looking, which is typical for UK solar lights due to our low levels of sunlight. They use a tiny NiMH cell and a high value inductor to get decent run time at low intensity from our meagre amount of daily sunlight. These lights are a cheap source of a PCB to fix other favourite lights that have suffered water damage. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A look inside a Panasonic Nanoe air purifier. Every big Japanese manufacturer has their own version of this technology, but they are ultimately all based on the classic ionisers - but with lots of top secret marketing hype. The approach Panasonic have taken is quite novel though. Especially the lack of a traditional spike electrode - although it's hard to say if there's maybe a spiky texture on the round end of this electrode, without using an ultra high magnification microscope. They also gone a different direction from the usual high negative voltage emitter behind a grounded ring, by swapping that to a high positive voltage ring with a grounded emitter. The corona discharge it creates is surprisingly wide. Possibly as a result of the domed ring around it. The unit's circuitry is classic Japanese engineering with three well stuffed PCBs. The Nanoe emitter works well when connected to a cheap AliExpress ioniser module. I used that to power it for the corona photo. The air path is surprisingly complex, with the main fan creating a low venturi flow through the corona unit, followed by what appears to be sachets of carbon granules, presumably to tame the oxidising elements in the same way that classic photocopiers tamed their ozone output. This may result in more hyrdroxyl radical output versus other active air molecules. Quite a treat to disassemble and explore. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I wondered why these prominent brand switches were being sold so cheaply at Poundland. Given that Poundland do generally comply with electrical safety regulations, they were unlikely to be dangerous. As I took the switch out of its packaging I spotted an obvious problem immediately - an incorrect wiring diagram. There may also be an issue with the striping on one of the wires in the diagram potentially causing confusion with the striped earth wire. Other than that, the switch seems to have no other obvious issues, so they were probably just clearing out stock to a less fussy customer base. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This video was a catalogue of disasters. I even said right at the beginning not to trust the red/black polarity marking in generic Chinese products. They literally use whatever colour of wire is available. That said, this is a great way of saving the ongoing cost and inconvenience of using standard or rechargeable batteries. It lets you choose either the batteries or a USB power source. You also have the option to change the LED strip to a colour of your choice, as it is widely available online. This strip is a 3V version. You also get direct 5V versions with a resistor per LED, and a 12V version too for handy off-grid illuminated ornaments. The diode I used was a 1N4007, which is a very standard 1A 1000V diode. It's a component I think should be in everyone's universal component kit. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I've seen this issue arise with tactile switches a few times now. Unlike the normal failure mode of progressively failing open circuit due to oxide formation, this issue creates a gradually decreasing resistance across the contacts with molecular level tin whisker growth. This issue seems to have originated from the time that lead was banned from solder, and the manufacturers ended up using pure tin to plate their contacts for solder compatibility of the terminal legs of the contacts. It manifests as a very slow growth of micrometre diameter strands. With the super-low current of a tactile switch, it can progressively create a lowering resistance between the contacts that will start causing intermittent false operation of the switch that gradually gets worse over time. The best fix is to replace the switch. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

They promised more meat, but did they deliver? (Clue - I ate the whole thing.) In a previous video I bought one, but discovered that the accountants had visited and reduced the meat content to a box ticking slurry. It appears they have addressed this issue. These tinned pies have been a British tradition since I was a kid. It was a family treat to share one of these alongside a selection of vegetables. The tins also often ended up in workshops filled with random screws, washers, and springs. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

To dooby a bulb is when you reduce the power rating of an LED bulb to make it more efficient, cooler running and longer lasting. It's named after the infamous Dubai bulbs made by Philips for the Ruler of Dubai, who wanted the most efficient and longest lasting bulbs possible. With modern linear regulator bulbs, all the main circuitry is usually on the LED PCB, making a slight modification easier. This bulb was notable for not using much glue in its construction. The PCB was screwed in and the front lens was secured by a small dab of silicone at one side. With some bulbs there's just a single resistor that makes them harder to hack than the ones with two in parallel, as the aluminium core PCBs are notoriously hard to solder on due to their fast heat dissipation. The easiest dooby is to check that two resistors are in parallel (they use two to allow finer tuning of the current), and then simply break one off completely, or crack the black top layer off. In this case the power rating of the bulb started off at 3.5W and reduced to 1.2W with the 180 ohm resistor left in circuit, and 2.5W with the 82 ohm resistor left in circuit. The intensity is reduced, but as LEDs are more efficient at lower power it still puts out plenty of light. The 1.2W option would be ideal for an ambient light in the evenings or at night. It's power is so low that it could be left lit 24/7. This task involves a device that operates at main voltage. The PCB should never be touched while the bulb is energised. The front lens should be fitted in normal use. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This little LED street light is so cute that I had to buy one. It does make me wonder if they actually use things like this in China, as street lights in rural areas, or just as yard lights. It's probably the most basic thing you could mount onto a pole outside and call a street light. But I'm not convinced that it's truly water resilient, and the complete lack of an earth/ground connection is unfortunately standard for this style of light. There's a commonly spouted piece of misinformation that "electricity takes the path of least resistance", and that is WRONG! Electricity takes ALL paths of resistance, and while the most current will flow in the path of least resistance, enough can flow through other resistance paths to kill you. Simply assuming a metal pole stuck in the ground is an acceptable "grounding" is not correct. In the event of a fault, the pole can become live, and while some current will flow to ground it may not be enough to trip a breaker. That would mean the pole was still live and touching it could result in you becoming another current path with fatal results. A rather horrible example of that in the UK is a council worker who was fatally electrocuted while working on a street light where he or someone else had used ground as the neutral due to the proper neutral connection being damaged underground. That is VERY taboo, as a broken ground connection then makes all the associated metalwork on that section live with respect to ambient ground. This is where I'll have my obligatory rant about the one day G39 slideshow that is often used in the UK to facilitate the use of lower wage labour to do work in one of the most dangerous electrical working environments possible. (lots of exposed metalwork and wet ground). It's a very unpleasant example of the Dunning Kruger effect, where an individual will be over confident in doing electrical work because they have been given an "electrical qualification". I'd rather all workers in that industry got a deeper education so they understood the hazards of what they were working with. Especially when things are not "normal". If you choose to use one of these lights, be aware that it DOES need an earth/ground connection added to avoid associated metalwork becoming live in the event of leakage to ground. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

One of the nice things about these tool batteries is that they are relatively simple, have a BMS system and best of all, the ability to shut themselves off when the charge is low. I did a few cycles on a couple of the cells and they measure in at 1400mAh (1.4Ah).

This was a LONG video to make. But worth doing. Note that the filled pods were dried at a maximum of around 90C due to the way the drying system works. It would have been better to have a system with metal containers and a higher drying temperature. But the results are still worthwhile. Biggest surprise was the traditional cat litter (probably bentonite clay), which performed very well. Biggest disappointment was the zeolite. I was expecting higher adsorption. The rice performed pretty well for.... rice. And definitely smelled the nicest when being dried. Another worthwhile test would be to see how low the desiccants can pull humidity in a sealed enclosure. Note that desiccants like this are not designed to dry entire homes. They are for keeping the contents of small enclosures dry, with the recharging (heating to drive the moisture back out) being done in a room. The 1kg (2 pound) packs do a good job of keeping car interiors free from condensation damage if the packs are dried out regularly. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A look at a novel fuse designed to make troubleshooting easier by indicating the its location and blown state. That could save a lot of time in some applications where an overload on a circuit is common (vehicle appliance socket?). Or one of those very rogue intermittent faults. These fuse are only for low voltage use, but equivalent circuitry exists for higher voltage use. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

It's cheap - it does work - but would you trust this in your home? This voltage transient shunting device was sent by Frankhe for our exploration. He also sent some candy and some combined metal oxide varistor and gas discharge tube devices. I'm used to seeing surge protection devices that have a thermal safety device, as the varistor disks gradually break down and can start to pass current continually at lower voltages, resulting in heat. The internal construction makes me wonder if the MOV/VDR disk was supposed to be sandwiched between the two copper electrodes. Or if those electrodes were designed to go into a ceramic ring to act as a spark gap. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I've already featured the battery and charger in separate videos, so here's the full teardown of the actual chainsaw itself, complete with oiling system and gearbox. I also show how to put the chain and chain-bar onto the unit and adjust the chain tension. The arborist-experts can weigh in on the way I did that. Real chain oil is quite viscous, so I'm not sure how well it would pump through the simple oiling system. For the cost it's staggering. It hints the premium brand tools are probably made around the same price point and marked up to a price that suits the brand image. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A look inside the extraordinarily lightweight 21V "2A" battery charger, often supplied with generic unbranded cordless tools. The charger is instantly notable for how lightweight it is. Literally just 60g or 2oz. It puts out a current limited supply of around 500mA, and uses a standard USB 5V 2A chip, but with the transformer wound for 20V at lower current. The end of charge indicator is very simple and mainly triggered by the battery pack's BMS turning off its charge transistor or the voltage gradually creeping up to near the charger's output voltage. The charger does work, although I wouldn't want to guarantee its life expectancy due to the pointless level of cost cutting and badly positioned foam mounting system in the case. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The circuitry in these generic battery packs for the unbranded cordless power tools on eBay is actually OK. Given that you can usually purchase an extra battery with a kit for just £5 more it does make me consider how much markup the prominent brand names like DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee and others are making on their "consumable" batteries. Even with prominently branded cells it doesn't justify over ten times the price. The design of this unit is similar to the Ryobi batteries in that it contains the battery protection circuitry, and can cut off power to the load directly. This actually makes them very viable for use in other custom applications. Many other brands rely on the tool to cut off the power draw when the battery signals it. The reason the Ryobi batteries have this feature is because they are backward compatible with tools that were intended for use with NiCd cells. The chip seems to have been aimed at these packs, and it's most basic schematic is breathtakingly simple. I wonder if they've added the filtering circuitry for greater voltage monitoring stability with high current peaky loads associated with power tools. I'll take the new chainsaw apart in another video. My general experience with generic power tools so far is that they perform exceptionally well for their low cost. I'd guess they're probably used by Chinese construction workers. The charger will also get its own video. I'll guess it's a very basic switchmode supply with opto feedback and probably charge status indication monitored by sensing the voltage drop across a current limiting resistor. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Water hammer is the loud thud from pipework when a valve closes suddenly. It's often caused by the sudden stopping of water with momentum, causing the pipes to jump. It can put a lot of stress on fittings. The normal approach to fixing this is to provide an air buffer in a pipe or pressure vessel. This device does exactly that in a miniature form. Traditionally a stub of pipe with a cap on the end was used as a crude air reservoir, but there is a belief that the air gets absorbed into the water. I was under the impression that the tiny bubbles of air that often occur in the water supply would refill the air pocket. The piston or diaphragm in dedicated units ensures that the air can't get depleted. Did you spot me repeatedly mixing up air and water during the video? That's the peril of doing live-take recording with a one-way trip into the device being explored. I fitted a similar style of unit to try and resolve an issue when my washing machine (laundry washer) is cycling its main solenoid valve, but while it helped, it couldn't cure the decades of random plumbing modifications and unsecured pipes under the floor. The pressure vessel diaphragm failure I mentioned is fairly common. The usual failure mode is for the diaphragm to perforate, and water to displace the air that was there. If a very brief press on the schrader valve stem results in a squirt of water, then your pressure vessel needs replaced. Some manufacturers recommend checking the pressure from time to time and adding more air if needed. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is entirely my fault. I bought a mini chainsaw to make a video about, but as I'd featured another variant at that time I held off and ended up storing the unit and its batteries for about three years. When I rediscovered it I found that both batteries were damaged beyond recovery by over-discharge. Usually if the cells have dipped just below about 2.5V they can be gently eased up to 3V and then charged fully. But these ones have suffered long term discharge damage to at least one cell in each pack, causing rogue self discharge. When a cell does not maintain its voltage after charging (allowing for a slight settling of voltage) then it's time to let it self discharge completely and recycle it. The losing of charge usually indicates a damaged separator between the electrode layers. Odd circuitry though. They seem to have gone a different charging direction than usual, with the charge MOSFET drive being level shifted to switch a MOSFET on the other supply rail. I'd guess that the charge MOSFET output is active at all times, except when an end of charge state is detected, by one of the cells in the battery reaching 4.2V. The moral of this story is to ensure that all power tool batteries are given a top-up charge every so often. Especially the ones that don't get used for long periods of time. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

You do NOT need a 3D printer to make this project. You can use a standard project case. If you do choose to make a 3D printed case, then the three scripts are included below in this description. They can be copied and pasted individually into OpenSCAD to create customised STL files to suit your exact needs. The base and top have some variables that can be adjusted if desired. OpenSCAD is an amazing piece of free software that lets you describe 3D models with text. It's often described as "The programmers CAD". The main advantage here is that it allows the use of variables and logic, so a small script can achieve great things. I printed my unit in two shades of marble PLA. I'm not sure if black pigments have carbon as a colouring agent. If they do it might be worth avoiding them, as electrostatic charge does weird things on even high resistance surfaces. This project does involve working with mains voltage circuitry, and should only be attempted by those experienced in that area. You build this unit entirely at your own risk. You can find the ioniser modules on sites like AliExpress. The common name is PK-A22F. There is a dedicated video about that module showing the internal circuitry. It takes an AC supply of 100-240V and puts out an extremely high voltage at low current to a carbon fibre tuft. When a high negative voltage is applied to very sharp points (the tuft) it imparts an electrostatic charge into the air. I do not recommend using low voltage modules with plug-in DC power supplies, as ionisers create a very high voltage difference with respect to ground, and it can cause arcing between the high and low voltage sides of a power supply. The 12V modules should be fine in off-grid homes with a general 12V system referenced to the chassis. To test your ioniser, you should feel a slight draught from the carbon fibre tuft. It can also be heard if pointed directly at your ear. If the ioniser is placed on a white sheet of paper and left for a week or so, there should be a visible outline of it on the paper if it collects fine dust. Here are the openscad scripts. Be careful to keep the "=" and ";" on either side of variables when changing them. The comments next to the variables have suggested values in brackets. The text below here is the script for the base. You can adjust the size of the module box within reason. //Cone shaped ioniser base boxx=28; //widest side of ion module (28) boxy=15; //shortest side of ion module (15) base=1.6; //thickness of base plate (1.6) $fn=100; difference(){ union(){ //base cylinder(h=base,d=60); //lip cylinder(h=2+base,d=56.4); } //central recess translate([0,0,base]) cylinder(h=3,d=53.2); //cable entrance translate([-2.5,-30,base]) cube([5,6,7]); //cone pillar recesses translate([-25.5,0,base]) cylinder(h=3,d=8); translate([25.5,0,base]) cylinder(h=3,d=8); //cone screw holes translate([-25.5,0,-1]) cylinder(h=base+2,d=3); translate([25.5,0,-1]) cylinder(h=base+2,d=3); } difference(){ //ion module block translate([-(boxx+2.4)/2,-2,base]) cube([boxx+2.4,boxy+2.4,6]); //ion module recess translate([-boxx/2,-.8,base]) cube([boxx,boxy,7]); } difference(){ //cable grip translate([0,-12,base]) cylinder(h=6,d=22); translate([0,-12,base]) cylinder(h=7,d=18); //cable entrance translate([-5,-23,base]) cube([10,6,7]); } difference(){ //Cable grip central pillar translate([0,-12,base]) cylinder(h=6,d=8); //cable grip screw hole translate([0,-12,base]) cylinder(h=7,d=2.5); } The text below here is the script for the main conical case. It has a few variables for the height of the cylindrical section and cone, plus a hole size option for the emitter. //Cone shaped ioniser top base=15; //base vertical section height (15) cone=100; //base cone height (100) hole=2.5; //diameter of emitter hole (2.5) $fn=100; difference(){ union(){ //base cylinder(h=base,d=60); //cone translate([0,0,base]) cylinder(h=cone,d1=60,d2=hole+3.2); //top emitter mount translate([0,0,base+cone]) cylinder(h=4,d=hole+3.2); } //base recess translate([0,0,-1]) cylinder(h=base+1,d=56.8); //cone recess translate([0,0,base]) cylinder(h=cone,d1=56.8,d2=hole); //top emitter hole translate([0,0,base+cone-1]) cylinder(h=6,d=hole); //cable entrance translate([-2.5,-30,0]) cube([5,6,2.5]); //cable entry arch translate([0,-26,3]) rotate([90,0,0]) cylinder(h=6,d=5); //x-ray cube //translate([-50,-50,-1]) //cube([100,50,150]); } difference(){ union(){ //cone pillar recesses translate([-25.5,0,0]) cylinder(h=10,d=6.8); translate([25.5,0,0]) cylinder(h=10,d=6.8); } //cone screw holes translate([-25.5,0,-1]) cylinder(h=12,d=2.5); translate([25.5,0,-1]) cylinder(h=12,d=2.5); } The text below here is the very short script to create a custom washer to stop the cable from popping out of the restraint. //ion cone cable restraint washer $fn=100; difference(){ //main disk cylinder(h=2,d=18); //centre hole translate([0,0,-1]) cylinder(h=4,d=3); }

I didn't realise how far voice recognition had progressed. This light can understand several voice commands and react accordingly with no need for a network connection. One slight correction. A longer test showed that the unit does not store the current state to flash memory, but will power up in a random state if left off for a while. I couldn't identify the chip, which isn't surprising. It's not the sort of thing the manufacturer would expect hobbyists to use. I'll guess that it's probably looking for key sounds. I used to have a crude voice recognition toy when I was younger, that asked questions and could recognise just two words - yes and no. Some experimentation showed that it really just recognised the "S" of yes and the "O" of no. Two distinct sounds that can be easily differentiated with simple filters. The commands that this light recognises are:- Turn on the light. Turn off the light. Change the colour. Dim the light. Brighten the light. The (undocumented) dimming has five steps, and the light flashes once to indicate that it has reached the dimming limit in either direction. The unit can be operated from a significant distance away, but is really intended for close use. Current draw is about 300mA lit and 10mA in standby. Sorry conspiracists - the unit can NOT listen in to your home and send your conversations to the Chinese government. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The peril of making videos late at night. I completely screwed up the frequency by a significant factor. The 5ns waveform is around 200MHz (0.2GHz), so it could be the oscillator frequency. A fairly standard style of module used in solar powered lighting systems. The circuit board has a very intriguing mix of RF, analogue and digital circuitry. Having reverse engineered the design without testing it first, it was a bit annoying to find out that it was faulty. But it was a good excuse to scope out the filtered doppler waveform. Not sure what was causing the specific frequency of the rogue waveform. It might have been a hybrid of the 300kHz switching 5V supply combined with an unstable RF oscillator to create a harmonic effect. Seeing the bursts of low frequency doppler frequency shift was quite cool (if that's what it actually was). The fact it changed frequency with speed of objects approaching the oscillator does hint at doppler detection, where a signal reflection from a moving object will be at a slightly different frequency from the RF transmitter. In this case I think it disturbs the oscillators natural frequency and causes it to modulate its current draw. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

ParCan - an abbreviation for Parabolic Aluminised Reflector bulb and the metal can it's housed in. The bulbs used with these are MR16 or GU10. MR16 means Metallised Reflector and the 16 is its diameter in eighths of an inch. Likewise the classic PAR56 and PAR64 are 56 eighths (7 inches) and 64 eighths (8 inches) in diameter. Even the first LEDs had the eighth of an inch sizing system. 3mm LEDs were called T1 and 5mm LEDs were called T1 3/4 (or T1.75). The same applies to fluorescent tubes - a T8 tube is 1" diameter, and a T4 tube is half an inch in diameter. I think GU10 is named after its safety bayonet style base. These little Par Cans, also known as birdies are commonly used in theatres and themed environments as a convenient way of getting a wash of light with a fairly concealed source. The 12V versions often have inline electronic transformers, or a traditional chunky transformer mounted nearby. These are a very common and cheap light to buy. This one came from CPC in the UK:- https://cpc.farnell.com/pulse/par16-mv-bk/lantern-par-16-230v-black/dp/DP30408 If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

It's fun to visit past projects from decades ago, and see what sort of stuff younger-me was making back then. This is a little rechargeable light I carried in my toolbox for a while. It used very early white LEDs that look a bit tame by modern standards, but were cutting edge back then. Note that NiMH cells are not like lithium cells. They can handle trickle charging for reasonable durations due to the chemistry recombining end of charge outgassing back into electrolyte. The circuit also has a weird anomaly that looks like it was either a crackpot idea or a mistake. But on the whole, I give the circuit an 8 out of 10 for functionality. While a bit cramped inside, a lot of shaped insulators had been inserted for good electrical separation. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

If you wonder why there haven't been videos for a while, it's because I received what I believe to be a very unfair strike from YouTube for a harmless 18 second short where I singed the end of my beard with a lighter in a controlled manner. I bought this unit a while ago for a long term test of different units. Many of the other units had annoying technical issues, including one that saw its own foam and kept squirting more out, thinking a hand was there. And another that would crash and turn off every time foam was dispensed (probably an undersized lithium cell). These units do tend to wear out over time, and a very common issue is the foam enhancer blocking. I may force some water through the foam enhancer in reverse in this unit to try and clear any debris out of the very fine moussing mesh. It does sound slower than I recall, so it could have an issue with loss of lubricant on the pumps wobble plate, or is perhaps struggling to push the liquid through a clogged mesh. Nice logical circuitry though, and the software seems to be pretty good too. The standby battery life is exceptional given that the hand sensor remains active 24/7. The foam pumps in these units are a dedicated unit designed for the many hand-soap or sanitiser foaming dispensers in use. The use of foam instead of liquid soap means that a refill lasts ages, but still gives you the effect of a good portion of soap. The sensor PCB was very nicely implemented, with it's little black foam surrounds to ensure low infrared leakage between the emitter and detector. A test of the detector showed a massive change in resistance between ambient light and pointing an infrared remote at it. Literally from 10's of megohms to tens of kilohms. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Just a simple teardown of a very standard device to see how its construction differs from others. This video is also a nice relaxed one to make my life easier while travelling. The heater has a resistance of 24,000 ohms, so at 240V it will pass 10mA and dissipate 2.4W of heat. Local variants will have a different resistance value for a similar power at your supply voltage. Some aromas are based on oil as a carrier, and others seem to be based on glycol. It may depend on the aroma chemicals used. The packaging of this unit specifically describes it as a scented oil unit. These units could be an interesting short-notice source of a small heater block, complete with heat resistant sleeving. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Some devices can be a very useful source of motors, and this one contains a low voltage and fairly low current motor that will potentially find use in solar ornaments and other projects. Removing the motor was tricky. I ended up having to use a hacksaw to carefully cut a slot through the plastic casing to allow it to be parted enough with a flat-blade screwdriver to allow the motor to be extracted. If the tip is cut off it may allow the motor to be pushed out. The eccentric weight came off the 1mm shaft very easily. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

These lights are available in 50, 100, 250 and 500 LED sets in warm white or coloured. I got a set of each type to check out the circuitry and solar panel size. The LEDs are wired as a long parallel string with visible intensity drop across them when bundled together. By cutting the string shorter the intensity of the remaining LEDs will increase. Note that these are the type of sleeved LED that will inevitably wick in water and corrode. But the solar panel can be repurposed for other stuff if that happens. As with most solar lights, there is scope to customise them by changing the inductor to set a new LED current according to how much sunshine you get. The NiMH cell can be upgraded and the LED string can be adjusted in length. If you have a window that catches a lot of sunlight, these may be suitable for use indoors too, and should last a lot longer due to being kept dry. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

When I made these panels 20 years ago, I never envisaged that it was similar to how some future LED bulbs would work, but using multi-chip LEDs and a linear regulator. The weird choppy sinewave is definitely screwing with the test readings. I think the energy meter got the most accurate result. It suggests I may have been running the LEDs quite hard. In hindsight, that 1K resistor is probably getting quite hot too. The LEDs sold on eBay in packs of 100 by BestHongKong and ChiWing were cheap compared to the high cost of individual LEDs locally, but had reliability issues, as many of the first gallium nitride LEDs did at the time. Having been accustomed to the indestructibility of traditional red LEDs it was a surprise to discover that the new technology was not as robust. I learned about the unreliability the hard way when I built some of their blue and white LEDs into TV props. Fortunately the failures kinda matched the scene, so it wasn't so visible. The 3D printed ioniser case is for the universal 100-240V modules, so it will work anywhere in the world. It should also fit the 12V modules too. Once I get back from this trip I'll play about with the design and see how it evolves. I like the conical design, since it elevates the ion emitter above the table and creates a slight upward airflow. This ioniser is for a friend who sells paranormal research tools, and wants to see how the electrostatic charge in the air affects the charge sensing ghost detectors. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I've not seen a bad Wagobox (Connexbox) product yet. From the first Wagobox to the more recent products they've all been fresh, innovative and very functional. Now that other countries outwith Europe are discovering the convenience and versatility of the Wago connectors, I thought it would be worth showing some enclosures designed specifically for them. The Wagobox capsule could be very useful for mounting outdoor electronic modules in a way that protects them from the elements. Things like WiFi or LoRa nodes come to mind. As with the other products in the range, these units seem logical and functional. The metal bonding plates for steel wire armour cables seem to be well implemented. As always, I'm open to the thoughts of people who have used these products, and how they have fared over time. Let me know your experiences in the comments area. Here's a link to the connexbox website (not a sponsor). https://www.connexbox.com/ If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Having looked at an official Otis Elevators illuminated button, I got a couple of similar ones from AliExpress to compare the construction. These are visually nice buttons and have a solid feel due to the stainless steel actuator, albeit that it's pressing a fairly standard tactile switch. The 24V LED circuit restricts their use in lower voltage circuits. (Elevators and other industrial equipment tend to use 24V DC control circuit power.) The connector and pinout is different to the Otis one, and bizarrely the three wire version versus the four wire one just has two pins shorted with a blob of solder as a common +24V. The other oddity is the plastic retainer being a snap fit onto the stainless steel button. I wonder if those plastic parts crack much. Here's the link I got the buttons from. Note that there are many other sellers of similar buttons. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006015123930.html If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

These lights have a really nice case and appearance. I actually had high hopes of them being a great light. They even seemed to have a dedicated all-in-one charge control and PIR monitoring chip. Then I dug a little deeper..... A simple diode test between the solar panel input pins and the power pins of the chip showed a single diode drop. So the unit does appear to be using the built in protection diodes of a standard microcontroller. I tested to see if the unit did anything to regulate the charge on the lithium cells by turning on the LED filament to shunt the voltage down a bit, but it didn't. At this point it appears to be luck whether the lithium cell gets overcharged or not. Thankfully they're fairly low capacity. The large cell measured 500mAh, the smaller one measured 300mAh. Two improvements to these lights would be adding a small protection module to the lithium cell, and adding a resistor to limit the maximum current through the LED filament. That will also give longer operational time on a charge. If you enjoy my videos, subscribing will make them easier to find in the future. But don't enable notifications, because I put out a LOT of content.

Nothing really radical about the circuitry, but the visual effect is very neat. Especially with the LED placement. As with most solar lights, if you really like this one, then it's worth spending a little bit of time waterproofing the interior. Whether that's using a lacquer on the PCB or some form of grease on the PCB and battery contacts to keep water away from them, it's worth doing. I wonder if a spray of mechanic's fluid film would work. The inductor sets the LED intensity and affects the run time. Places with lower amounts of sunlight could use a higher value inductor like 220uH to 330uH. Places with high levels of sunlight could get a bit more intensity with a lower value like 56uH. This could be a nice symbolic garden light for members of the furry fandom. Or it could be hacked to run on a USB cable and resistor for indoor use. This light came from Temu (not a sponsor), but is available from other online sellers too:- https://www.temu.com/goods.html?_bg_fs=1&goods_id=601099519077930 A search for solar paw light comes up with many similar listings. I think this one cost around £4 for one. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I'm a bit perplexed by the fact that the 220V indicator had two resistors in it, but with one literally doing all the work. One resistor is 39K and one is 2K, meaning the 39K resistor is dissipating almost all of the power as heat. For the higher voltage buttons on AC a capacitive dropper would have been a nicer option. The 12V indicator is fine though, although it does push the single LED at around 20mA. I'm not sure I'd recommend these indicators for anything other than home workshop use. The physical construction is nice, but the circuitry has been shaved to the edge. The short where I blew up one of the indicators is here:- https://youtube.com/shorts/79vXZENXCZY If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A very long and relaxing project build where I answer questions and chat for two hours. These ultra long videos aren't usually as popular as the shorter ones, but can help people relax and sleep. This project does involve mains voltage, and should only be attempted by those with good electronic assembly experience. The end result is a technical art item and not intended for use as a toy by children or non-technical adults. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

If you have one of these then you may wish to either stop using it or completely change the way you use it. At the very least, wear insulated gloves and make sure the unit is unplugged after use. Do not rely on the onboard switch. There are safer units available that convert the incoming power to an isolated and current limited supply, but this one pretty much puts full mains voltage straight out. The bizarre LED dangling through a ragged hole in the ungrounded case may actually be a crude FUSE! Because if the positive lead touches grounded metalwork there will literally be a dead short, with just the internal rectifier and the LED in series with the mains supply. LEDs do actually make surprisingly good fuses due to having a microscopic encapsulated bond wire. They do sometimes blow in half though... Sadly, the LED will not save you from electrocution. It takes much less current to kill a human than to blow an LED bond wire. Technically speaking they could have made a marginally safer unit by putting a capacitor on each leg of the supply and limiting the current to a much lower level. Even high power resistors could have been used for that. It would still pose a shock risk, but with much less chance of being fatal. But for a proper reliability test on a faulty LED panel a higher current may be useful. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Yeah! Weird device that I've never come across before. I kinda want to fit one in my DB just for the gimmick value. It's basically a digital counter with non-volatile memory, that detects high current pulses being shunted by a surge protector and gives a running score. This could be used to monitor for when a new surge protection module was needed, but it is only designed to detect high current pulses, so won't show the accumulated small-transient shunting that can be caused by highly inductive loads in the vicinity. Quite novel though, with sensible design and a stunningly low standby current of just 0.1W. Given that the input is electrically isolated (on this particular unit), I wonder if it could have other event counting uses with a simple low voltage input. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I have to admit, this exceeded my expectations significantly. The plastic light housing was slightly disappointing, but viable, since the power of the light is only around 5W with a fully charged cell and maximum intensity selected. The solar panel itself seems fairly robust, and is based on a glass panel with the silicon cells laminated onto the back with a white plastic film. I'm in the progress of testing the LiFePO4 lithium cell, but it does appear to have the correct dimensions (32700) for a 6Ah cell. The cell test is currently in progress. First full charge cycle on the 32700 (32mm diameter - 70mm long) lithium cell shows an impressive input of 5.5Ah. And it's notable that the FM2112 protection module (LiFePO4 equivalent to DW01) ended the charge earlier than expected, so it does look like a genuine 6Ah cell. The circuitry is minimalist with good functionality. I like the fact that it uses coloured battery status LEDs in the main LED window. One quirk is that they are powered from the unregulated positive rail, so if the cell reaches full charge and the protection circuit kicks in, the solar panel voltage could theoretically float high enough to allow current to flow through the battery indicator LEDs and the chip protection diodes on those pins. With a fully charged (3.65V) cell the eight LED power settings are as follows:- 1.7A = 5.1W (calculated with LED voltage of 3V) 1.5A = 4.5W 1.3A = 3.9W 1.1A = 3.3W 0.9A = 2.7W 0.7A = 2.1W 0.5A = 1.5W 0.3A = 0.9W 0.1A = 0.3W As the cell discharges the power will fall progressively. Roughly half the power at mid discharge, and progressively lower as the cell drops to its end of discharge voltage of 2.5V. As the cell reaches 2.5V the battery level indicators start flashing and just below that level the unit cuts out. At that point the LED current has dropped to just 7mA at full intensity setting, so the unit could still be putting out at least a faint glow on dark winter nights with low daytime sun. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Hacking new LEDs into solar lights and ruggedizing them against the elements has always been a thing on this channel, and as summer is approaching it seems a good time to buy a couple and see if they've changed much inside. Nothing much has changed, so that makes popping in a new LED (or two in series) quite an easy project. It lets you customise your lights and experiment with different colours and LED styles. I like the idea of a planetary theme with these translucent globes, since some planets have vivid colours, like Neptune, Uranus and Mars. If you live in a part of the world with lots of sunshine then you can swap in a lower value inductor for a brighter LED, and if desired, the NiMH cell can be upgraded too. Conversely, if you live in a darker part of the world you can extend the run time of lights at the cost of intensity, by changing the inductor to a higher value, up to around 470uH. As always with solar lights, placement is important. They should be a clear view of the sun directly for as much of the day as possible. The difference between direct sun exposure as opposed to just seeing a bit of the sky is massive. Sometimes it pays to shuffle the location of lights. Waterproofing the PCB and trying to prevent water creeping down the sides of the solar panel is important. Electrolytic corrosion can destroy lights very quickly. It's sometimes useful to drill a drainage/breather hole in plastic lights too, to reduce the amount of internal condensation. That also lets bugs in, but it's a small price to pay for the increased longevity of the light. Vaseline, silicone grease, nail varnish, spray lacquer, and other protective coatings can be used to shield the PCB and cell in your light from water. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I started off feeling quite enthusiastic about this new and interesting integrated circuit. But after a bit of exploration I'm not sure it's any better than the classic TP4056 type chip. The promise of adjustable charge voltage threshold was dashed when it turned out you can only adjust it upwards. Especially when the block diagram hints at a more versatile option. It's notable that it has much lower tolerance of overvoltage on the solar panel input (6V) than the classic TP4056 (8V). If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

To be fair, this fault was very odd and would have slipped through basic testing. It only shows up when you attempt to charge the unit, and even then it still lights its "charging" indicator. My best guess for the switched supply to the PIR sensor is for lower standby current when the processor shuts down on low cell voltage at about 3.2V This unit uses much simpler circuitry than a previous version which used a dedicated chip with control over timing and sensitivity. Those variables are set in the software in this unit, but there's still scope to tweak the light sensor level by substituting the 1 Megohm resistor for a higher or lower value. Standby current is OK at around 45uA, given that the unit always has an active movement detector. The lithium cell supplied is a bit minimal, but it's easy to swap in a new cell under the PCB. For year-on-a-charge use you could even add an external cell. These lights are great for off-grid or power-cut prone locations. They provide a very convenient splash of light on demand at night, and with normal triggering will last a long time between recharges. They also lend themselves well to solar charging with a basic 5V panel. The magnetic pad allows the light to be moved around as needed. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Seriously... This unit was supposed to be able to detect farts and then quench them with chemical aroma on demand. Well it did until I broke the sensor (not with a fart). I'm not sure if these are still available in other countries, but they weren't on the shelves long here. The circuitry is interesting, but bizarre. In hindsight I could have emulated the sensor with a variable resistor and seen how it affected the other circuitry, but as it is probably only switched on briefly at an unknown timing it would have taken a long time to catch it in the act. It may also test in very short time bursts, so without a data logger it would have been tricky. The design of the circuitry is surprisingly complex and makes me wonder if they just squeezed the max out of a basic function chip to keep costs low. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Without full metallurgy tests it's hard to say exactly what alloy this electrical connector is made of. The attraction of a strong neodymium magnet was very slight, even with the outer plating and nearby steel screws removed. I'll guess a brass alloy with a nickel plating. A subsequent test on random brass plumbing fittings also showed a very slight attraction of the same magnet. Brass is technically an alloy of copper and zinc, with the colour being affected by the ratio. With the cost of copper these days, it's no surprise that it looked a light golden colour, suggesting more zinc than copper. Then again, I'm sure there are probably cheap alloys being made that look like brass to cut costs. In this application the chunkiness and very close vicinity of the coupled wires is probably a benefit for the application of acting as a single pole power distribution block. China has a huge manufacturing industry, so it's no surprise that they have a lot of machine components at fairly low prices. This block cost £3 which compared favourably with a similar distribution block from a UK seller at £12. I'd consider this block for personal panel projects, but not for an industrial application where the cost of machine down-time makes the use of prominent brand items more important. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Ever fancied a real glass neon tube as an ornament in your home? With the progressive replacement of traditional neon signs with the short lifespan LED versions it's getting harder and harder to find a traditional neon making workshop. The equipment used to make neon is quite complex and very expensive. Not just the vacuum pump and manifold system, but the very high power bombarders that heat the tube by passing a lot of current through the internal vacuum to burn out all the tubes internal surface impurities. I strongly recommend saving any old neon signs that you can, or if you're lucky and find a neon workshop, then it may be viable to get a short custom tube made for ornamental use. Neon signs require a high voltage, current limited supply. One of the cheapest and easiest ways to get a suitable low voltage version is to buy one of the CCFL (Cold Cathode Fluorescent Tube) drivers online. These ones seem quite well rated and are used for powering vehicle CCFL angel-eye tubes used as borders around headlights. The hacks shown here allow you to customise the output to suit your tube. I kept saying nanofarad instead of picofarad. It's rare I use picofarad values. In this case they range between about 22pF to 47pF. It's interesting to note that in the PC-case cold cathode tube era, the short length tubes just had a lower value capacitor fitted in their drivers. These power supplies are usually good for about 2' (600mm) of 12mm neon tube or a bit longer for the argon/mercury/phosphor tubes. Over time I expect these power supplies to get rarer and rarer. So it might be worth grabbing one now. They're not that expensive at the moment. This one came from an AliExpress seller:- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001561157745.html A search for angel eye ccfl should find them. Here's a UK seller who makes straight demo-tubes for collectors and educational establishments. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256366499235 Note that he can ONLY ship within the UK due to the destructive and expensive nature of international shipping. I'll ask about and see if any of the USA neon benders are interested in putting some straight tubes (easier to ship) on eBay. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I've featured a bigger version of this in a previous video. But this is probably the most minimal version other than adding a very simple on/off remote control module. I meant to say 18W apparent power for the module's low power factor. Not an issue until the power companies start charging for it (and they will). The module is designed for three speed fans where the fan motor has a capacitor and tapped winding that allows three different speeds based on which of the taps is powered. It also has an output for a fan swivel motor. The design is impressive for the very basic power supply running a microcontroller. Companies like Padauk specifically tell you to avoid using their microcontrollers with capacitive droppers for reliability reasons. It can result in a very noisy and spiky power rail due to coupling of mains borne electrical noise. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Another of the many products on eBay where the sellers try to outdo each other with very ambitious ratings. Far too ambitious in this instance. The construction of the light is interesting because it has been optimised for fast manufacture. The circuitry is ultra minimalist, including the USB charging circuitry that doesn't inspire a lot of confidence. Don't leave one of these on continuous charge. Other than that, it does work, the beam focus feature works well and it doesn't have too many useless modes. The cell capacity tests at a very ungenerous 160mAh and the charge circuit does keep trickle charging the cell after the LED has stopped flashing, and when I monitored it for a while it peaked at a slightly uncomfortable 4.27V then suddenly settled back down to 4.21V, making me wonder if it had energised the load briefly when I wasn't there as part of its charge control. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is one of the smallest proper street lights available. It's made by a British company called ASD and uses a conventional LED panel and a programmable driver. After the video I was able to reprogram the driver to run the LEDs at just 10W. It's handy being able to read the driver settings of one light and then clone them to another. Ideal for where you are replacing a failed driver, since the faulty one will often still be readable due to its NFC circuitry being powered by your phone's coil. The Tridonic app seems to work better than the others I've tried for different brands of driver. It still has some quirks, but was very usable. The mode option was for extra sensor functionality to detect people or vehicles, and dim the light up and down as needed with duration and dimming speeds fully programmable. The built in logging of run time and electrical anomalies is quite interesting. It has advantages for the manufacturer for detecting false warranty claims where the light has been exposed to unusually high voltage due to miswiring or a lost neutral. If you work on one of these lights, be aware that the latching system is not released from the top as it may initially appear. It is released from the underside at the pole entrance point. Don't jam a screwdriver under the top and try to lever it open with force. Note that the wires on the LED panel are a one-way trip. They cannot be removed without cutting them. Trying to release them may actually damage the panel. In normal use the panel would only be changed if it had failed anyway. I mostly managed to avoid having a rant about the deskilling of labour in the street lighting and traffic signal industry. There's a bizarre UK culture of falsifying electrical skills using one-day slideshow "training" in one of the worst electrical working environments possible - wet and well grounded. One day I'll probably take a deeper dive into one of the electronic drivers. But they are massively complicated, with microcontrollers and network functionality. The choice of LEDs is interesting. Quite well engineered and tested under real-life conditions during manufacture. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This unit is intended for keeping small enclosed spaces dry by using silica gel desiccant to adsorb moisture on its surface, and then liberate it again when the unit is plugged into a USB power supply to power a small internal heater that drives the moisture out into the room. Contrary to the instructions in the listing, the unit should not be left plugged in constantly, as that will just be a heater, and not a dehumidifier. Although, that could be useful in some applications. The insides were slightly underwhelming in the construction and lack of desiccant, but that has now been corrected and is currently under test. Test results so far:- The original 16 gram bag has adsorbed a pathetic 1g (1ml) of moisture. The new fill has adsorbed 17g (17ml) so far. I've still to test its self-drying ability when plugged into a USB power supply. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I was kinda hoping this was a truly standard module that I could recommend for building DIY ionisers, but now I'm aware that there are other variants with the same name. These modules are suitable for other applications requiring high voltage DC at very low current. But the high voltage should always be regarded as being referenced to mains voltage. The universal 110-220V voltage is really just fixed value resistors that get hotter when used with higher voltages. No problem, since we can stick a couple of sleeved quarter watt 18K resistors in series to help spread the dissipation when using above 200V. The output voltage of these units is actually quite zesty compared to a classic ioniser, meaning they will potentially generate more charge in the air. The principle of operation of an ioniser is that when a high DC voltage is applied to a sharp point it causes the air to take on a charge with respect to ground. That causes charged particles in the air to precipitate to surfaces in the room or makes them stick to filters in air cleaners. A very slight electrical plasma (corona) discharge is also created at the ionisation tips, which results in creation of short-lived active air molecules as found in outdoor air, that have a deodorising and sterilising effect on the air as they revert back to stable molecules. The use of carbon fibres is because they are very sharp and work well as ionisation emitters. Traditionally steel needles were used. Here's a typical AliExpress listing for what looks like the same module:- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000227970754.html And one of the big spicy-mama ones, which appears to be universal voltage too:- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006643204352.html Here's a video about the big one, with a schematic:- https://youtu.be/rt6DEjCuKFU A video showing the construction of the voltage multiplier unit for 220 - 240V countries:- https://youtu.be/ZLB2UUQ35J0 And the Russian Nuclear Corporation Molecular Disruptor:- https://youtu.be/IoN_EYtSuio If buying the modules from eBay the keywords anion module should work. Be careful about buying 12V modules. Because they create a high electrostatic charge with respect to ground they can stress the insulation or cause flashovers inside standard power supplies. Not a problem on vehicles or off-grid accommodation with 12V and grounded chassis, but if using with isolated supplies the negative on the low voltage side will need grounded. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Note that if this unit is plugged into a USB power supply while batteries are fitted, there is a risk of non rechargeable cells exploding. YAY! The unit was pumping about 500mA into a set of non rechargeable cells and almost 800mA into a rechargeable set, which will fry them quite quickly and possibly cause them to vent. I recommend disconnecting the battery holder. This product is quite interesting just for the frame and the LED diffuser. It could be used on its own with your choice of LED tape as a custom mood light. This one was faulty when it arrived, with one section of LED tape not showing the warm white. Easy fix though. The wire was very thin, so I'm surprised the others didn't pop off too. The diffuser material is a bit too long, so it could be trimmed a bit. I noticed that both sides hadn't been seated properly all round, so there's a bit of finishing to do if you get one. A search on eBay for "sandscape" will find these effects. Shop around, as there is a wide price difference for the same units. Some listings call them quicksand art. If using a syringe to adjust the water or air ratio, it's important to use a thin pointed hypodermic needle, as it has to push through the silicon sealant between the glass. Adjustments are a delicate juggle of removing air or water and then topping up again with the opposite. Over pressurising risks damaging the glass or seal. The instructions with the unit suggest using sterile water, but I'm inclined to use a touch of disinfectant to avoid "stuff" growing between the glass layers. Shaking the frame will break larger bubbles into smaller ones, but sometimes bigger bubbles work better. It's possible this effect was discovered as a happy accident, with someone putting sand between two layers of glass and then adding water to slow its movement down, then seeing the effect of the bubbles. It appears the inventor may be William Tabar who patented the idea in 1985. The first ones were made in Salt Lake City, Utah. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Just about every penny has been pinched on this design. From the undersized resistors to the wiring of the LEDs themselves, which seems to be plain aluminium wire. I couldn't solder to it at all, so had to crimp connections on. That probably means it's relying on the high open circuit voltage to break down oxide formation in the crimped joints when in use. While playing with another string of sockets I had fitted with RGB colour changing LEDs, I had one socket with an intermittent open circuit in it. Either a fractured connection where the wire exits the sleeving, or a bad crimp connection. Very hard to find, as the slightest disturbance of the whole set fixed the problem briefly. Update - it's NOT using phase angle control. It's pulse width modulating the LEDs on unsmoothed DC and when I shook the lights violently back and forth I was able to see around six distinct dots of light where it was visibly lit in each half wave. Based on the DC humps being at 100Hz and some of the PWM not being illuminated near the zero crossing point, it suggests a possible PWM frequency approaching 1kHz, but modulated at 100Hz. What I thought was a zero crossing point detector for timing is actually just sensing when power is cycled briefly to change mode. With a longer string of LEDs they will be lit for less time on the unsmoothed DC and shimmer may be more visible. When I first saw these in huge ornamental lights in the UK I was really surprised to see what appeared to be a long series string of LEDs, clearly running at a fairly high voltage. But literally just stuffed in amongst a mass of coiled aluminium wire forming a plant-like sculpture. It looked good, and it was nice that someone technically inclined could potentially swap in a new LED if desired. But it also meant there were exposed (but slightly recessed) live contacts on each LED's socket. If an LED was nudged out a bit (easy to do) then there was also the risk of the live leads coming into contact with the metal frame. I'm guessing there may have been some incidents, as they later switched to a low voltage version with the classic heatshrink sleeved LED strings. The circuitry is very neat though. The tying of pin four of the microcontroller to the positive rail has strong PIC12 vibes to it, as that is the master clear pin when pulled low, and it also doubles as the programming voltage pin, which means it usually needs tied to a supply rail. The H-bridge for polarity reversal is also a classic design, with the NPN transistor also turning the opposite rails PNP transistor on. In this application the capacitive dropper limits the fault current if things do go wrong. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

It's always interesting to take a look at elevator components. Especially Otis components because of their iconic history. This is a fairly standard illuminated halo button that may be used by other elevator manufacturers too. A search on AliExpress for the keyword br27c will find similar buttons, but they may have different connections than this one. Usually 24V because that's a standard control voltage in industrial applications. I've just ordered a couple to look at. The electrical configuration of this button is odd, because it has a four pin connector, but only three pins are used. A different style of button has the LEDs and switch on four separate connections. It does make sense to use 3 wires though, as the switch signal is also 24V in some applications. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I wondered what would happen if a can of Madri beer was put through a Guinness ultrasonic surger. The foam it produces is surprisingly wet and drinkable. Quite a pleasant drinking experience. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is an MK socket with a key operated switch to allow authorised users to power items. The way they've achieved the key-switch function with standard electrical components is very impressive. But can it be picked? The part number for this MK socket is K2949BSS if you have a use for one. They're quite expensive due to being a specialist component. For reference, the key is marked 92304. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A fairly deep dive into the odd but very interesting circuitry of a 0.99 power factor LED driver, that uses clever minimalist circuitry that is not documented on the chip manufacturer's datasheet. I'm wondering if this is a pin compatible drop-in replacement for another brand that offers other schematic options. The most obvious electrical weakness of the design is the unfortunate extra winding tap on the primary, that violates electrical clearance on the PCB. The extra screening track used between the MOSFET and sense circuitry is also routed directly under a sense resistor. The chip is an MT7938 if you want to look at the datasheet. It's in English, but has some oddities to the wording. But it does convey most of the useful information. The slight shimmer from the LED is low level ripple being picked up by the camera due to the intensity of the light output. This video is probably not going to be popular. It will only appeal to a tiny percentage of YouTube viewers, but it still needed to be made to cater for those who appreciate the data. That's the curse of technical channels. The more technical they are, the less views they get. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

My guess at what was wrong with this unit was completely wrong. It's as if they repurposed an existing circuit design and I initially thought they were trying to run a dielectric barrier plasma generator from DC. In reality the fault was with component tolerances - possibly off-tolerance transistors. But having tested the transistors on a tester which identified then correctly and gave a plausible gain, I had a wild goose chase of component swapping. Once I got it going I then found it did kinda work, but not as well as it should have due to the weird choice of output circuitry. I get the feeling this is a clone of a clone with the factory not quite understanding the operation. On a plus note, it's not one of the completely fake ones with a blue LED and fake circuitry. And we did get to do a very deep dive into the circuitry of this novel device. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I wondered what would happen if a can of Dark Fruit cider was put through a Guinness ultrasonic surger. The foam it produces is a fetching shade of pink, and quite nice to drink as a thick foam. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

An investigation of a generic Chinese illuminated latching panel switch, that ended up destroying it completely. Usually I try to take things apart in a controlled manner, and then reassemble them after the video has been made. But not this time! Keywords for finding industrial switches like this are - 22mm 380V panel The phase to phase voltage in China is 380V and the standard panel cutout size is often 22mm. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This video is partly about a special purpose pump, but also explains how a very common European unvented tumble dryer works. They're extremely efficient and require no external exhaust vent. The simplicity of the design is stellar, with one main motor for drum rotation and the hot and cold air-path fans. The fans are the centrifugal type, so even when the machine changes drum direction briefly, the fans still push air around. The water extracted from the clothing is pumped up to a pull-out reservoir which can then be poured into a sink. Alternatively, some of these machines can be plumbed directly to a drain. By recycling the hot air in a loop, these machines have high efficiency, and also contribute to heating your home in winter. Unfortunately they also heat your home in summer, which isn't so good. They also do leak a small amount of fine lint which adds to the usual dust issue in homes, but most of the lint is caught in a small lint trap that is cleaned before each cycle. Because we have very high power available at all sockets in a UK home (32A 240V power circuits) we can plug these machines into any socket in the home. It's common to have the laundry equipment in the kitchen, but the dryer could be put in any spare room in the house. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I'd never tried Fireball before. It's basically whisky with cinnamon syrup in it for a very sugary and aromatic taste. But will it carbonate? If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

An interestingly themed groin-juicer with the exciting feature of shorting out your USB port when attempting to charge it. The most exciting thing about this unit is what appears to be a microcontroller with integrated lithium charging functionality, and a high current driver for things like LEDs or motors. It does have a quirk though, possibly related to the voltage divider being used for charge sensing. The choice of a jack plug for charging was probably driven by the desire to have a connector that could be pushed through a small rubber orifice to limit liquid ingress. If anyone wishes to juice their fruit, here's a link to the item. Guide price £12 in case they jack the price up, so shop around if they do. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/375000302164 If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Not my usual style of video, but when I saw this on sale in ASDA (UK chain formerly owned by Walmart), I was wondering whether the bold claims had any substance. The only way to find out was to test it. This is basically a plastic shell filled with various beads, that claims to be an alternative to normal detergents, with a life of 50 or 70 washes. (70-wash as supplied and then smaller 50-wash refills.) The white pellets are supposedly a concentrated surfactant (molecule that bonds with both water and oil), and the dark tourmaline pellets are supposed to ionise the water and make it more alkaline. If the ball does liberate surfactants then keep in mind that it will also do so during the rinse cycles that are normally used to wash residual dirt and detergent out of your clothing. The laundry industry is full of theatre with optical whiteners (ultraviolet fluorescing dye) that gives the impression of white clothing being brighter, and really pungent aromas that have been marketed to the point that people think that "fresh linen" is actually what fabric is supposed to smell like. Then there are the "softeners" that basically coat your clothing (and laundry equipment) in fragranced wax to give it a softer feel in the same way that oil and grease soaked overalls feel "soft" too. You can wash most clothing in just plain water with no detergent, and it will rise out the natural bodily salts and dust, but it can leave a slight stale aroma after a while as plain water will not remove natural oils well. That's where it's useful to use a SMALL amount of detergent to help wash the oils out. I tend to use standard dish washing liquid, but be aware that some machines will foam excessively with dish soap and that can result in water spraying out the detergent drawer when the machine fills for a rinse. A small quantity of fabric conditioner washed down into the drum will get rid of foam virtually instantly. While the laundry detergent manufacturers want you to pour huge quantities of their detergent into your machine, it only takes a small amount to clean normal clothing. Try using half the amount you normally use. The same goes for conditioner. If you want to use it to mask aromas then try using much less than normal. The Ecoegg did impart a faint and fairly pleasant aroma onto clothing. And for non manual workers it may be enough to get satisfactory results. But for those of us who have physically active jobs a more traditional detergent may be a better option. This may actually work for you if you alternate between conventional detergent and the use of the laundry ball to help cut down on chemical use. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I'm actually quite excited by this evolution of the discarded street-lithium devices. It's not just an easy to remove lithium cell, but it has a rugged capacitor-style case with a contact PCB that has concentric gold-flashed connection rings that can either be easily and safely soldered to, or used as-is as a modular cell contact system. Especially if the existing spring contact system was salvaged too. On the basis that both the capacitor-can style cells I've checked had well below the stated capacity, I've ordered another unit so I can pop the cell out and measure the as-supplied voltage, in case it's being charged to a higher voltage to achieve the higher capacity like some modern high voltage lithium phone cells do. But the 3.7V mean-voltage printed on the side makes me think it's probably a standard 4.2V cell. I'll update this description when the new device arrives. Update:- The new unit arrived and I took the cell out immediately without using the device. The initial cell voltage was 4.1V and a full discharge and charge test initially showed an energy input of 450mAh, but I noticed that the upon termination, the voltage settled back down to 4V. I finished the charge on another lower current module and it added a further 82mAh, so that suggests the cell is close to the 520mAh stated on it. That makes it very useful. Another test using a low current charge at 120mA yielded a capacity of around 450mAh again, but settled down to 4V after the charge. 450mAh is still very acceptable. I'll have to recheck the first cell now in case the early termination of the charge was why it seemed to have lower capacity than expected. As supplied, it is VERY easy to remove the cell. The base comes off with a slight twist and pull, and comes out with the rubber spacer attached to it. The cell then drops out. This very pleasing and rugged cell format could find many applications for personal projects including lighting, or upgrading the cells in existing products that use standard non-protected cells. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The plasmacluster air cleaners must be one of Sharp's most successful products. They're MASSIVE in Japan, with almost every home and public space having one. The other prominent Japanese companies have their own variants on the technology too. They're basically just an advanced air ioniser with some very bold advertising claims. In reality, devices like this do emulate nature in the way it creates active air molecules by natural phenomena. It's why outdoors air is always "fresher" than indoors air where the active molecules deplete rapidly and do not normally get replaced. The most common method of freshening the indoor air is to produce a very faint electrostatic discharge that does mind-boggling things to air. It literally strips molecules apart into individual atoms, and they can recombine in either stable molecules or unstable variants like hydroxyl radicals (a molecule composed of a single atom of oxygen and hydrogen) or other active molecules like ozone (O3 - three oxygen atoms) and hydrogen peroxide (H2O2 - two atoms of oxygen and two of hydrogen). The amounts generated are usually lower or equal to natural outdoor air. The short lived unstable molecules can deactivate viruses and oxidise pollutants - returning to stable molecules in the process. The first units used to use sharp metal needles to create the plasma, but modern units use tufts of carbon fibres, as they are long lasting and very efficient. Part of the reason I got this unit was to see how the construction has changed, and what was being used to expire the modules after a preprogrammed amount of use. Unfortunately the unit was so well potted in hard resin that I damaged the circuitry in the process. Otherwise I'd have explored the data on the protection chip. I'll keep an eye open for an affordable module or dead unit to see if I can read the data. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

How minimalist can they get? There are even less components now than in previous versions. The ultimate low is to get rid of the light sensor completely. Which might not be a bad thing, given the way it works. The main issue with this light is the ease with which the cover comes off. Especially given how alluring lights like this are to kids. It also has inadequate fault protection for use on high current power circuits as used in the UK. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A remote control receiver with a much beefier relay than normal. I'm not sure I'd actually try using it anywhere near 30A, but the bigger relay would make it better suited to higher loads than the units with tiny relays. As with many of these units, the antenna wire should be regarded as being live at full mains voltage and located and treated accordingly. The circuitry is very typical of these units, with a nifty buck regulator and classic receiver module that means the unit has a standby power of just quarter of a watt. Here's how to program this unit and many others that use the same software. To clear all existing codes, press and hold the button for about 5 seconds until the LED starts flashing, and then release the button and wait for a few seconds as it erases existing codes. If the LED doesn't start flashing then the unit may use a different erasing technique. Turn it off and on again and then click the button 8 times. That should clear the existing codes. To select a mode press the button between 1 and 7 times, observing the brief LED flash with each press. After the required mode has been selected the LED will light to show it's waiting to receive a signal from the chosen remote button. Press the remote's button and the LED will go out, or if it's the two button toggle mode it will blink and then wait for the second button to be pressed (which doesn't need to be on the same remote.) If desired you can pair several other remotes by repeating the procedure. They can all have different functions. Modes:- 1 - Single button momentary action. Non latching. 2 - Single button toggle on/off. 3 - Two button on/off. Each button is assigned independently. 4 - Single button timer 5-second delay. 5 - Single button timer 10-second delay. 6 - Single button timer 15-second delay. 7 - Single button timer 20-second delay. Some similar units have an adjustable link for setting the mode. It usually offers momentary, latching or two button toggle. The button may only be for learning a code. These units are common on eBay, usually supplied with a remote switch or key fob with a frequency choice of 433MHz or 315MHz. In the UK 433MHz is a standard frequency. The transmitters are fairly standard and many different units with the matching frequency will work.

What a beast! This thing involved a LOT of engineering. It has shut-off ball valves, motorised ceramic valves and magnetic remanence latching pilot valves for the main water outlet diversion. Full video about this unit - https://youtu.be/1zZzIOk19dI Then there's the sensor block! Three thermistors (33K at 10C) and two mystery transducers that are mounted between the supply inlets and output manifold. I'm not sure what their purpose is. Random thoughts are pressure differential testing to detect correct flow or that valves have shut properly? The big thing in the middle that I thought was going to be a last resort thermostatic safety device is actually just a water turbulence mixer to combine the hot and cold water. Its filter mesh is for first stage debris filtering to protect the solenoid valves, but also possibly to assist with the water mixing. The solenoid valves are very modular and quite complex with a small pilot valve activating the main diaphragm. It's a 2.5kg (5lb) brass monster with so many places to leak! There seems to be a huge dependence on rubber o-rings everywhere these days. I dread to think how long this system took to develop, or the costs involved. The mechanical and electronic engineering is immense. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

An experiment to see what would happen if a 1N5817 Schottky diode was put between a TP4056 charge module and a lithium cell, to skew the apparent cell voltage. Charging a lithium cell to a lower voltage like 3.9 or 4V extends its lifespan and number of charge cycles greatly. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This was an expensive set of four rechargeable Maxell ML2032 cells and a charger for them, but I'm not convinced the charger is actually suitable for the cells. The Japanese seller also included a set of metal tweezers for removing the cell from the charger, suggesting they are not that technically inclined. (Yeah, I totally used the tweezers with a dead CR2032 cell as a clickbait thumbnail.) I subsequently received a vague warning from eBay that the listing had been taken down and to stop using the product immediately, but unlike Temu they made absolutely no effort to explain the issue or refund the buyers, and it's not even possible to initiate a return even though it goes through all the motions! I contacted the seller and they insisted the cells are genuine Maxell ML2032's and that the charger is suitable for them.... Ongoing tests show they do take a charge, but it doesn't appear to be compliant with a charging specification I found, which is a charge current of 2mA (very slow trickle charge) at a maximum of 3.1V - this charger puts out about 30 times that current at 4.2V! The extremely low charge current is probably why the voltage shot straight up to 4.19V on the standard LTH7 style charge chip. If these are real then I may have to improvise a simple charger. Maybe a simple current limited supply and a TL431 as a programmed voltage cap? If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I bought this a very long time ago. Long enough that it uses a tungsten lamp and has no light sensor. But it does have a circuit to flash the lamp. The super minimalist design of the flasher is actually quite interesting. Two transistors, two resistors and a capacitor. The reason the light is round is because roadworkers often smear the lights with grease and then sit on them for manly pleasurement, although that may not be factually correct, since they actually use cucumbers or Temu insertables instead. (Hardly anyone reads down this far anyway.) These lights tended to munch their way through huge quantities of large 6V lantern batteries. The new LED ones with dusk sensors probably prevent a lot of battery landfill. There are solar versions available, but they only suit some areas of the world. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

In hindsight I think the tilt switch actually is mercury based. It has the right weight and feel when shaken (flumpy instead of clacky), and would actually be the perfect choice for this application. Mercury relays used to be fairly common until they were banned by non-technical people suffering from hysteria. In reality, mercury was an exceptionally good choice in many specialist electrical applications, and the "safe" replacements (loose ball bearings that rattle about and make bad connections) are so unreliable that they are a primary cause of equipment failure and subsequent landfill. Mercury in its liquid state is actually fairly benign. The main hazards are associated with prolonged exposure to heated vapour or in more aggressive chemical forms. The classic phrase "Mad as a hatter" comes from the health issues that traditional hatters had due to prolonged inhalation of vapour from the use of heated bowls of mercury for shaping felt hats. A modern version of this earthquake can would probably need an electronic circuit to operate reliably, using a modern ball bearing tilt switch to trigger a timer and drive transistor. If you wish to buy some proper mercury tilt switches the keywords are "glass tilt switch". Note the absence of the word mercury from the keywords to appease the Munchausen environmentalists. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A very common folding solar panel for camping use, that is often misrepresented visually and with grossly inflated specifications on the digital dumpster known as eBay. Don't rely on this to charge a phone in a remote location, even in very sunny weather. Any output would be best channeled straight to a power bank to catch as much energy as possible all day long, and then charge a phone at a sensible current later. It might have its uses for charging simpler devices like lights. Note that the unit isn't really waterproof and will corrode internally if used as shown in the listings. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This device actually works surprisingly well. I was expecting it to be more sophisticated inside than it actually is, but it's actually refreshingly basic. The unit comes with packs of different shaped wire staples that are inserted into the end, and heat up when the trigger is pulled. They can then be pressed into cracked plastic, securing the parts together. The unit probably has a fairly low duty cycle, but that is inherently compensated for by the way it is used. When the trigger is pulled the power dissipation is 43W. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A quickie video made just before travelling to make things more relaxed. This is a typical eBay facilitated grey import floodlight. Spoiler - I did leave it running and it gradually crept down to 75W with the regulator chip area of the PCB getting the hottest. Those linear regulator chips automatically regulate down when they get too hot. This may actually help the LEDs last a bit longer, but I still regard these lights as dangerously non compliant and short lived landfill. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Just a low-tech laid back video showing the inside of a simple mechanical time switch. Just a cost optimised motor with resistor chosen to suit the local supply voltage, a standard microswitch, and a slightly mistreated LED. This video is basically me having a shameless skive from real work. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

These connectors were VERY hard to open. I had to actually cut a locking mechanism apart to get the lid off. The quality of design and construction is as you'd expect from the daddy of screwless connectors. An interlocked busbar and spring assembly that grips the wire very tightly against a tinned copper busbar. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I've come across various articles claiming that silica gel based cat litter can be used as a moisture absorber, so I decided to test that and see how well it actually worked. The cat litter I used was Bob Martin Felight cat litter, which I think is the silica gel based version. Most notable difference was the lightness of the cat litter crystals. For a specific volume the cat litter is significantly lighter than the solid beads. I think it's optimised to be porous. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I've never seen this happen before. The aluminium core LED panel has actually delaminated. I don't know the full history of this light as it was sold as untested, although a flex had been Wago'd onto the original wire stubs! So hopefully it wasn't powered up with a saturated electronic driver. As supplied it was covered in mud and had water in the LED section, suggesting it had been stood vertically outdoors for a while, with the pole port up. It's possible that the standing water and a number of freezing cycles caused progressive delamination, and the submersion may also have resulted in humidity ingress to the LEDs too. So I don't know if the light was retired due to LED failure or if that happened in outside storage. It's not old, so it must have been removed for a reason. If you work with these lights (Urbis Schreder Axia 2?) then let me know if you have had issues with them. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

This is a home automation product that lets you run a bath or have a shower by voice commands via your voice recognition device and a remote server. It looks like someone put a lot of work into the design, but it seems like a bad idea to have your shower controlled via a remote server (which may be down). The idea of a glitch or hacker turning your shower on unexpectedly while the door or curtain is open, and flooding your house, or even just splurging gallons of hot water down the drain seems undesirable. With no physical override it also means that a system crash, fault or hack could leave you with no way to have a shower, bath or even wash your hands. Then there's the cost of getting a "home automation expert" to repair it. It's an industry flooded with big egos with matching hourly rates. But Kudos to the people who actually designed and built this unit. It looks like it was a valiant effort to create a functional product, albeit a bit ill-conceived. It certainly looks like it was expensive to develop and manufacture. The Home Assistant posse do seem to be exploring the protocols of this system to try and get it back up and running on a local network. https://community.home-assistant.io/t/smartap-shower-control-getting-started-with-reverse-engineering-a-smart-home-device/358251 If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I've been experimenting with a system called PIV (Positive Input Ventilation) where a fan draws outside air into the attic, filters it, and then pushes it into your home to create a slight positive pressure that results in a steady airflow that displaces stale air out through natural building leakage. Unlike America, where heating and cooling is done with ducted air, the most common heating system in the UK is still hydronic - a system where hot water is pumped around radiator panels. In older buildings this can result in stale air and mould (mold) issues. The continuous low flow of air using this system can help alleviate that issue. Like a more controlled way of having windows open. There are commercial systems available that generally have a big slow running fan with speed options and a ducting system to a large vent on an upstairs ceiling. But I initially decided to test the system with a pressure optimised computer fan and some 3D printed adaptors for ceiling mounting with a standard HEPA filter. I like the effect a lot. You can feel the freshness in the indoor air. But on the very cold or humid days it really needs to be turned off. I may add a temperature and humidity based control system at some point, but for initial tests I decided to add a simple remote control module that is very cheap and common on eBay. Here's a link to the original video about the receiver:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkhUR_30o0s Here's how to program this unit and many others that use the same software. To clear all existing codes, press and hold the button for about 5 seconds until the LED starts flashing, and then release the button and wait for a few seconds as it erases existing codes. If the LED doesn't start flashing then the unit may use a different erasing technique. Turn it off and on again and then click the button 8 times. That should clear the existing codes. To program each mode, press the button between 1 and 7 times, observing the brief LED flash with each press. After the required mode has been selected the LED will light to show it's waiting to receive a signal from the chosen remote button. Press the remotes button and the LED will go out, or if it's the two button toggle mode it will blink and then wait for the second button to be pressed (which doesn't need to be on the same remote.) If desired you can pair several other remotes by repeating the procedure. They can all have different functions. Modes:- 1 - Single button momentary action. Non latching. 2 - Single button toggle on/off. 3 - Two button on/off. Each button is assigned independently. 4 - Single button timer 5-second delay. 5 - Single button timer 10-second delay. 6 - Single button timer 15-second delay. 7 - Single button timer 20-second delay. Some similar units have an adjustable link for setting the mode. It usually offers momentary, latching or two button toggle. The button may only be for learning a code. These units are common on eBay, usually supplied with a remote switch or key fob with a frequency choice of 433MHz or 315MHz. In the UK 433MHz is a standard frequency. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is a generic imported CCTV power supply bought from eBay. There are a few issues with it, mainly the quality of manufacture, electrical isolation and wire colour choices. The large holes to allow a wide tolerance of the mounting pillars may shunt the positive rail to ground if too far off centre. If that happened and a circuit had the negative referenced to ground elsewhere it could result in quite a high current flow without any inline protection. Some insulating washers on the case mountings would avoid that. The poor electrical clearance was completely avoidable. The Chinese manufacturers don't seem to be too fussed about separation between high and low voltage. Swapping the live and neutral would reduce that hazard, but that's a bodge fix. The spare PTCs were puzzling until I saw how splayed the legs of the PCB mounted ones were. These components cycle thermally in use, so that may result in stress on the lead connections. The switchmode power supply is a joy of complexity, with its low voltage controller chip controlling circuitry that has strong self-oscillating ballast type vibes. It almost looks like the unit starts self-oscillating to power the output and control circuitry, and then gets its feedback transformer magnetically shunted or controlled by the low voltage side. I'd like to see a schematic for this unit. Reverse engineering it would be made tricky by the two custom wound multi-winding transformers. It's an interesting unit, but not one I'd trust for a safety critical application. Incidentally, the first cable I tested it with turned out to have a three pin plug and socket, but just two core flex connecting them. It was supplied with a studio light from eBay. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is probably the SCARIEST capacitor I've ever removed from a circuit. It's entire purpose in life is to stop people's hearts - but for a good reason. The days of defibrillators being big scary hospital machines are long in the past. These days they are a very affordable piece of first aid equipment that should be in every public place and workshop. The science behind modern units is stunning. When the pads are applied to the chest of someone in a suspected state of ventricular fibrillation (heart out of sync), the unit will monitor the heart's electrical signal and decide if it is good or if there is an issue that needs a resync pulse. If the pulse is needed it calculates the best timing and strength of pulse to achieve the highest success in bringing the heart back into sync. During the whole event the unit talks you through every part of the process, and even applying the pads is made easy by the clear instructions printed on them. It's important to note that the unit will not "shock" a heart in what it regards as a safe condition. It only applies a resynchronisation pulse if it detects that the heart is out of sync and that death is imminent. Sadly it can't do anything if the heart is flatlining, as that is a tough task even for trained paramedics, that may involve injection of drugs to directly stimulate the heart. It is MASSIVELY important that a defibrillator is applied as soon as possible in the event of an incident occurring, as the chance of survival reduces dramatically with time. If in any doubt about whether there is a heart issue then apply the unit, as it can help make a medical diagnosis. Paramedics will often keep the original electrodes in place with an adaptor to suit their own equipment. The cost of a replacement set of electrode pads is insignificant compared to the loss of a life. Although originally designed to save the lives of American utility workers (who usually work on live high voltage equipment), it's unfortunate that many do not have these in their utility trucks yet, despite the fact that their cost is insignificant compared to many of the other specialist tools they use. The Zoll units (not a sponsor) are one of the most affordable available, as they use standard batteries and the pads have much longer storage life (up to five years) than many other brands. Most modern defibrillator units keep a record of every event they are involved in for future refinement of software and functionality. I do recommend sharing the logged data with the manufacturer to allow them to improve the functionality of their units. The circuitry in these units is very impressive, since it can use the same pads to monitor very low voltage biological signals and also apply high voltage and high current pulses. It appears the little square device in the chest compression box is an accelerometer. It must be measuring the force as physical displacement. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This connector has one potentially fatal flaw, plus a few other weaknesses. As always with uncertified connectors I do not recommend that these get used in safety critical situations or where liability could occur. This modular connector system is quite neat. It can be stacked in various combinations, and the one connector acts as both plug and socket with shielded contacts on both sides. The primary hazard is that these connectors are not keyed, and can easily be plugged in out of alignment, resulting in a risk of shock or equipment damage. That is a significant concern with users who don't understand the potentially fatal implications of an incorrectly mated connector. In the pump scenario I describe in the video, if a maintenance operative was holding the earthed/grounded enclosure's door open with one hand and reached down and grabbed the pump with the other it would potentially result in a sustained and fatal shock. A secondary issue is that the wire retaining spring is not linked to the metalwork in the same way as a Wago style terminal, and relies on plastic to hold it in place. That means that an arcing contact will potentially melt the plastic and loosen the connection further. The connectors could have genuine uses for personal experimental projects, but I wouldn't recommend them for use in a professional environment. I'd also advise that they are only used at low current, as the mating area is quite small and of unknown pressure after the contacts have clicked past each other. Any contact heat will make the contact pressure worse too, due to softening of the plastic housing. In summary, it's quite an interesting connector with a lot of potential uses. But it has its limitations. I've only found one seller of these on eBay so far, but others are selling them on AliExpress. The item code is DF-2604D:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374321169827 If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

It's six years since I've looked at one of these, so I thought I'd buy another and see if the construction has changed much. It has changed a bit, but not much. It turns out that even six years ago they were using the new flip chip style LED modules, so the only slight changes are the fact it's now got an earth/ground connection, a six screw cover instead of four and the new driver is not power factor corrected, unlike the original unit which had a very good power factor. (Power factor is the relationship between voltage and current across the sine wave.) These lights are quite nicely made, and it makes me wonder if they're actually used as street lights in some areas of China. They're very hackable for replacing the LED or driver as desired if you have a specific colour requirement. They are also very serviceable in that the LED module and driver are very standard and easily available. Being such a cheap and mass produced item, I wonder how reliable they would be as an actual outdoor light. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I think it was Frost Giant who sent me an eBay link to these units. They are retired stock being sold off online. I'd guess they've been replaced by faster, more modern units. Here's the UK link this one came from:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325236405013 Some basic testing has shown that they appear to be locked down to avoid people interfering with them. There is a test/programming port on the back, but I'm not sure what sort of interface it's used with. The battery with mine had locked out on low voltage and it is VERY destructive to open them, so I recommend not doing so. In the video I mention a way to nudge the cell voltage back up to a level where the unit might recognise the battery pack again, unless it has lock-out memory. Nudging the cell back into life is strictly experimental. Lithium cells don't like being overdischarged, so some capacity or safety of operation may be lost. The cell is an 18650. The internals were quite minimalist. The ribbon cables have two types of lock. The large display cable has a fold up latch which swings up from the cable entrance side, and the others have a captive wedge that has to be pulled outwards gently in the direction of the cable to unlock it. I totally wrecked the one for the touch panel by popping it out a bit too hard. The speaker connector is best removed by gripping either side with a small pair of side-cutters to pull it out. The unit went back together easily, but I'll need to improvise a shim for the touch interface cable to wedge it in properly. These units will be a novel toy for an Android geek. Like a puzzle to get into the system to load a barebones Android install. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The neon based flicker-flame bulbs have been around for a very long time, and although they were an interesting effect, they tended to be a bit unconvincing. So now it's time for the LED version with a much better emulation of a flame. The power supply is very typical of the type found in smart bulbs to provide a 3.3V supply to the WiFi and Bluetooth modules. In this case the 3.3V just happens to be the perfect voltage for powering the microcontroller and the LEDs. It's actually perfect for powering many LED bulb projects, but note that it is not isolated from the mains supply. The flame PCB has a surface mount 8 pin microcontroller and 32 flip-chip LEDs on one side, and then a layer of phosphor gel added on both sides. The globe itself has a traditional glass construction, with the filament support bonded to the PCB and the small power supply in the base. Glitching the bare module to get all the LEDs lit at once turns out to be a deliberate feature. Turning the power off and on again for the right amount of time sets the bulbs into constant illumination mode. Here's the only listing I found for these in the UK:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355271559068 Shout out to a friend called Richard for letting me know these exist. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I bought 100 3-way push connectors on eBay for £5 shipped within the UK. That is almost too cheap to be real - but they arrived quickly, carefully packed in a flat package. This exact connector style has been around for a very long time, and is primarily intended for making fast electrical connections inside things like fluorescent or LED lights. They are NOT rated for high current, and shouldn't be used as general connectors in house wiring. Despite the listing describing them as having a copper bar, they only make electrical connection between the edge of a springy steel plate and the wire itself. I'm not sure the exact composition of the metal, but it is very lightly attracted to a strong magnet. That hints they might be stainless steel, especially as they remain shiny. Since the electrical connection between the two wires is made by current passing through the steel I wonder how the contact resistance of the connection will vary with time. A contact between two dissimilar metals results in a potential difference like a battery, and in the presence of water this can result in electrolytic corrosion. I'd guess that if these connections are kept dry they should remain stable. Let me know what you think about the differing metal to metal contact. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Another slightly overstated eBay solar garden light. This one has options of the central dome being colour changing, flame emulating or red. The circuitry is very similar to a light with equally ambitious power ratings, with the flame effect having its own processor. First mod to make to these units is to add a resistor in series with the white LEDs to tame the current down for a longer run time. The solar panel is NOT generous, so any current reduction is very useful. It would also be a very good idea to add a resistor to tame down the flame effect significantly, as it appears to be lit all the time at night when the main white light is off! Note that it is always a bad idea to charge standard lithium cells when the temperature is below zero-C (water freezing point) as it interferes with the charging process and can damage the cell. That means a sunny but freezing winter day could harm these lights. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This hot melt glue gun was seized by security when I took it through as hand luggage (for safety!). They implied that I might brandish it and hijack the small island-hopper propeller plane. I'm sure my movie-villain appearance had nothing to do with the decision. Fortunately I was able to pay to have the glue gun posted to me. (Total cost of both tools £30 - cost of recovering them £20!) Turns out that it's a very capable little glue gun with a ridiculously fast heat-up time and the circuitry and heater assembly were well worth making a video about. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Dave sent this for our exploration. It's a dusk sensor that was built into a wall mounting bulkhead light, but the very minimist circuitry means that at the transition from day to dusk (and dawn) the light will flicker. This module was probably intended for tungsten bulbs, but has survived the transition to LED versions. The stability issue is purely down to the simplicity of the circuitry and the lack of significant hysteresis at the switching point. There's a high probability that it's sensitive to light leakage from the bulb it's controlling. Given that it seems to switch near the zero crossing point, it shouldn't harm most lamps, but it's still not an ideal way to control them. The fix is to swap it out for a three wire version that has a permanent supply so it can use more sophisticated circuitry. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

These are a super-minimalist version of the classic meteor shower Christmas lights. They are very simple and operate from about 3V, meaning you could use these on a costume, or make strings of them. If running from 5V a series resistor is required. I tested one next to another running at 3V and the resistor value that matched the 3V intensity was 150 ohm. You can use a higher value resistor if you want a more subtle effect or a longer run time on a power bank. 1000 ohms still gives a useful intensity. The listing I got these from on Aliexpress is:- https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805191562686.html They should work out around $1 each. Make sure you get polarity correct, as powering microcontrollers with the wrong polarity can damage them. A series resistor will assist in limiting damage from a polarity incident. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

First correction - the ACRICH (AC-rich) chips have a 2V analogue input, so a microcontroller can drive that directly without level shifting. The power factor is a stunning 0.99 due to the way the LED current rides the sinewave in sync with the voltage.

A look at an alternative to the classic Wago style push-in wire connectors. The design is reassuringly simple, with what appears to be a copper contact plate with springy steel tangs that grip the wire and hold it firmly onto the copper. The way the spring metal is attached to the copper is fairly complex, with a set of tiny rivets that appear to be formed from the copper plate itself. These came from Screwfix in the UK, but are probably available from many other distributors around the world. https://www.screwfix.com/p/ideal-32a-2-way-push-wire-connector-10-pack/42201 They seem to do a very similar looking range to the classic Wago terminals too. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This unit is completely different from the other unit I looked at. It has different circuitry and a very odd optical system for the nebula effect. Thanks to Christopher for sending the faulty unit for us to explore. The manufacturer might be inspired by the video, as two of the optical components can be combined to give a really neat effect. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Some experiments to see how a selection of series capacitors affects the power dissipation and output of a 50W near-ultraviolet LED. The small motor-run capacitors look very promising for reducing the heat dissipation and extending the LED lifespan of these LED modules. Be aware that these capacitors do not have discharge resistors and can deliver a zing, so a couple of 470K resistors in series across the capacitor is a good idea to drop the voltage fairly quickly. With standard LED floodlights the capacitors could either be mounted internally, or in an external box. This could be an interesting way to prolong the life of external security lights. All tests were done with a 240V supply. For 120V use the capacitor values will have to be higher. I Have no way to test the wavelength accuracy. The gloves I wore in the video are standard half-dipped work gloves. They are not officially rated for live electrical work, but do provide a secondary layer of protection against shock at mains voltage. If working in a wet or outdoor environment take extra safety precautions. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This very stylish dehumidifier branded Prem-I-Air (not a sponsor) consists of a base that blows a gentle stream of hot air that can either be used to dry shoes, or be used to recharge one of two silica gel moisture absorbing cartridges by drying it out. It is intended to dry enclosed spaces like cabinets (not a room). These could find use in a storage box for 3D filament or other items where you wanted to control humidity. The hot air flow ,means they dry relatively quickly compared to the very steamy versions that just contain an internal heater. The internal heater is very odd. Initially I thought it was a traditional resistive heater, because I got a slight whiff of that smell you get when the surface oil burns off a new heating element. But that might have been from the metal electrode plates on either side of a PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) block. What makes it really unusual is that the block is perforated with a grid of holes so the air can blow directly through it. I'd guess that allows more efficient heating of air, and a reduction in the amount of material needed. It also explains the air inlet filter material and the unused guides for a removable filter. Update:- It's apparently a honeycomb PTC element. The power supply is a fairly generic module for powering the 9V fan. Bizarrely, the red LED is NOT powered from that supply, but is run directly on the incoming supply instead, with a sleeved resistor and possibly a diode. The thermal fuse on the heater block is rated 5A with a trip temperature of 76 degrees C. This unit came from a UK eBay seller:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352580454594 There are other sellers selling them, but since they don't ship to the Isle of Man they won't get a link. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A very affordable device that jams any speed or red light camera, allowing you to floor it at all times with utter disregard for human life. In reality, this device could cost you your driving licence as it does NOT stop any camera or radar device from clocking your vehicle. Like many of the other scam products sold online it is a completely different product (in this case a fake car alarm) that is re-themed to entice people to part with their hard earned cash. I'd guess the sellers would also play the usual game of trying to avoid refunding, or if sold on a dedicated website, might try to scam you out of more - assuming they haven't already harvested your card details. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

These USB powered chargers are only suitable for charging the LIR2032 rechargeable versions of the lithium button cells. Do not put a non rechargeable cell into them. Note that the rechargeable cells are not suitable for all devices intended for a CR2032 non-rechargeable cell. Instead of providing a fairly consistent 3V for the full discharge the rechargeable cells start at 4.2V and reduce progressively to 3V during the discharge. The charge current is about 15mA, which is well within the sensible range for these cells. The strange bypass resistor is odd, so I'd suggest not leaving cells in the charger continuously, although the leakage is small at around 6uA. The chip seems to have various protective functions for the inevitable time that a cell gets put in backwards. There is no facility for indicating to "intelligent" USB chargers that the device needs power. If it doesn't light with a fancy charger try a different one. The little flashing supercomputer badges came from Mouse's Etsy shop. He hand makes them:- https://www.etsy.com/shop/Flashything The charger came from Temu:- https://www.temu.com/goods.html?_bg_fs=1&goods_id=601099526702460 The cells came from eBay a while ago. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The circuitry in this toy was more sophisticated than I was expecting. Mainly for safety and electrical interference reasons. These were apparently first marketed as a dog toy, then evolved to become a kids toy too. The construction is mechanically quite complex to allow activation of a free spinning assembly inside the ball. The circuitry has lots of protection for overcurrent if the motor stalls, and its notable that as the current increases the voltage at the source (negative) connection of the MOSFET will rise, potentially acting as current regulation. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Twinkly is a prominent brand of addressable LED lights that can be used with simple controllers or pixel mapped with a phone camera. The data to the LEDs is transferred along just two power wires, which is quite an engineering feat, given how fast they can be refreshed. Thank you to Kip Hakes for the donation of his faulty PCBs. If you have the Twinkly festoon (a cable with "bulbs" dotted along it) then it's worth checking to make sure that water is not getting into the caps. It appears that there has been an issue with the O-ring being a fraction too small, resulting in water ingress through thermal cycling and capillary wicking. If any PCBs have been damaged then they may be replaced under warranty, and will often come with a set of new o-rings. You have to tell your supplier the bulb number as they have fixed addresses. If they're out of warranty or not covered then you may be able to repair them as detailed in the video. A toothbrush and some isopropyl alcohol removes the corrosion to allow easier testing. I'd also be tempted to paint on a conformal coating like a suitable electronics grade varnish to protect the components against water ingress. A smear of vaseline or grease might also be a useful alternative. The technology behind the Twinkly lights is quite unusual with the two wire power/data, and the camera pixel mapping software. At this point I don't think the usual suspects have managed to match their system for features. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This very common general purpose module has two sections - temperature and humidity. Each section has its own volt-free relay contact. The heating section can control either heating or cooling (but not both) and the humidity section can control humidifying or dehumidifying. If switching mains power or high loads I recommend using an off board relay with a 12V coil switched by the module's relay contact. For safety reasons I always recommend having an extra safety thermostat in line with heating elements in case of relay or circuit failure. The safety thermostat can be a simple bimetallic one with a fixed limit temperature. Each section has its own two buttons underneath its three digit display. To set the heating/cooling mode and temperatures, start by holding the left button down until the display starts to flash. You can then adjust the relay-on temperature, with the left button incrementing and the button next to it decrementing the temperature. Holding a button down makes it count quickly after a slight pause. If you pause between presses too long the setting is stored and the display reverts back to normal mode. Then set the heat/cool relay-off temperature by holding the second button from the left and adjusting as before. If the on temperature is lower than the off temperature it will act as a heating control. If the on temperature is higher than the off temperature it will act as a cooling control. Then set the humidity settings in the same way using the two right hand buttons under the humidity display. All settings are stored in non volatile memory. Pressing the buttons briefly in normal mode will display the current temperature/humidity setting on that button. To reset all the settings to factory defaults, press all four buttons down together until the display shows 888888. Take care to mount the sensor module where it can't get wet or contaminated with oils or solvents. The humidity membrane may have its accuracy skewed if it is contaminated. The search keywords to find these modules are "humidity M452". Typical cost for both the control module and sensor as a pair should be less than £10 shipped. An interesting use for this module could be to wire the two contacts in series to directly control a small positive pressure ventilation fan. That way it could be programmed to turn the fan off if the air was too cold or humid. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The everlasting pencil, also known as the infinity and eternal pencil is a novel writing/drawing device that uses changeable tips made of a very hard pigment-loaded material. The compromise is that the mark it makes is fairly light, although it does produce interesting shading results that might please some artists. These pencils are widely sold on Temu, eBay, AliExpress and other online platforms. I'm quite impressed by how many spelling mistakes I managed to make in one video. I'll just pretend that's how we spell things here. At least I got to test the slightly squishy eraser. I'm not sure how long a tip will last, but I'd guess that even a well worn tip will still have uses for filling in larger areas of colour. I got these pens expecting them to be pretty faint, and they didn't disappoint in that regard, but they do potentially have their uses. I'll stick to my Pilot V-sign liquid ink pen for my schematics though. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Although this detector came from Temu (not a sponsor) it is widely available from many online sales platforms. Its purpose is to help you locate concealed cameras in your home or temporary accommodation. It does that by firing out a bright ring of red light, which you can then view centrally for retro-reflections from lenses. The use of a dichroic glass filter is unusual for something like this, and quite a nice touch. The circuitry is very simple, since the unit relies on the skills of the user to differentiate what might be causing a reflected pinpoint of light. It's intended for use by someone knowledgeable about what they are looking for and the areas a secret camera might be covering. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A look at a generic Chinese controller for repairing air conditioner units (not the compressor type). This universal module can control three-speed fans, and two extra loads like a swivel motor and pump for an evaporative cooler. It's functionally very similar to the PCB in a Hepa air filter unit I have here, although much simpler. It's very minimalist. I think I'd rather it used a small buck regulator for the 5V rail, since the voltage falls significantly when driving three triacs and several LEDs on the display. The capacitor in series with the coil based sounder is rated 820nF. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The fact the listing starts with the word "economic" turned out to be a good sign, and I hadn't even got around to starting the video before I inadvertently crushed the 240V enclosure between two fingers while pondering how flimsy it felt. Beyond that, the smoking hot resistors - complete with hot plastic smell, and the minimalist control PCB show the true pedigree of the product. Sometimes I wonder how many electrical accidents they have in China, where this product is probably common. They could have made this marginally better by using a resistor in each light and reducing the current to a level where they didn't dramatically exceed their rating (about 0.125W). This is where a lower supply voltage like 120V has a huge advantage, as much less power has to be dissipated in the resistors. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

I got this a while ago, but after making a video about the real thing I thought it would be good to follow it up with one about the clone. Right up until I made the video the clone flickered horribly as it rotated. I was expecting a very low grade slip ring assembly, but it's actually not too bad. The flickering may have been caused by the lubricant causing the contacts to ride up on a layer of oil. I still prefer the neat PCB based slip ring assembly in the Luxa version. The original also has a spot welded stainless steel frame to protect the prismatic film, but the cheap one has no protection, so it's easy to crease or crack the film. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This seems to be a very common WiFi smart plug with multi-country socket options. As with most of these things it has its weaknesses, and this one has failed. The fix is simple enough, but you must be aware that these units are not held together with screws, so the case will never be as strong as it was before the fix, and there is a risk of exposing live connections if it comes apart while being unplugged. This circuit is ALL live at mains voltage when powered, so take suitable precautions when testing it while open. Complacency is your worst enemy here, and it's not uncommon for people to slip up and grab it to pull things like this out of the socket/receptacle while they're still powered. That results in a very harsh safety lesson. At no point did I handle this unit directly while it was live. For the repair you will need a beefy soldering iron for those pesky high thermal mass power pins and tracks. Or just take your time and allow the soldering iron to recover between each use. If the solder refuses to suck out of the capacitor holes then you can resort to the toothpick technique to clean them. Get a very sharp wooden toothpick, melt the solder and shove the toothpick into the hole to displace the solder. Once cooled, the toothpick will come out easily leaving room for the leads of the new capacitor. Double check the orientation of the capacitor, as electrolytics are a polarised component and may pressurise and pop if installed the wrong way round. If that happens then just stick another in the right way round after cleaning any explosion-residue off the PCB. I'd expect the capacitor value to be the same for other countries - 470uF 10V. It's important to use one rated for high frequency use, sometimes referred to as low ESR. (Low Equivalent Series Resistance). The one I used was from a UK component supplier called CPC (Farnell) and had the stock code CA08306. Try to use a proper component supplier, as eBay sells off-spec factory reject junk. Although apparently rated for 16A, I would never trust such a tiny relay with that current. 5A would be a much safer rating. That means it's fine for most loads, but not things like big heaters. It should not be used with loads that have huge inrush current, as they may cause the contacts to weld. That means the current spike causes the contacts to stick together. They can sometimes be released with a sharp tap on a hard surface. The power monitoring facility was a nice surprise for such a compact unit. It uses a dedicated BL0937 chip that is designed for that function. For the firmware reflashing posse - the chip is marked Beken BK7231T0N32 If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Two more "vehicle molecular de-icers" - one with a high tech flashing LED feature. If you've been caught out by this scam then be aware that if you paid by card on a rogue site then it's worth securing your card. If you bought one on eBay you can open up a dispute (Item not as described). Initially they may offer you a 50% refund to fob you off. It's up to you if you accept that. Do not close the dispute until it has been resolved - even if they ask you to. The reason you will see a lot of adverts for these on sites like Facebook and X is because the scammers do a hard mass-hit to make as much money as possible before people get wise to the scam. I'm almost excited to see what they'll come up with next. Remember - if it seems too good to be true then it probably is.

Vic got in touch about an unusual PCB that is used to provide operator feedback on roller pressure in a PCB cleaning machine. It seems quite an old design with hand-made PCBs for the specialist application. The manufacturer does have a setup guide for tuning the meter, but it's one of those "We know how it works, but it's hard to describe." things. My guess is that the front panel calibration pot would be set to a mid position, then the machine would be run for a while with the rollers lifted up and running free to allow the machine to stabilise on a no-load current. The calibration pot on the PCB would then be tweaked so the needle points at "2" on the dial (it's just a number - it doesn't relate to actual current). I don't recommend turning both calibration pots to their extremes as it may result in high meter current. With modern cheap LED current meters it might be viable to replace the meter with a standard digital display and then get used to the typical numbers for optimum roller pressure. I'd tend to write the sweet-spot pressure current next to the display. Ultimately, a seasoned operator has a feel for the machine, so they'd tend to just click with the numbers as a handy load reference indicator. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

One of the many advantages of the classic British power circuits is that we can plug in loads of up to 3kW into a standard socket. This unit is an instant hot water unit that can be connected to a convenient cold water supply, and then plugged into a suitably located socket to offer a hot water facility without the complexity of a traditional hot water system. These units are popular in places like construction sites and workshops. I say "hot" water, but in reality the temperature is regulated purely by the water flow, and it often has to be quite low for a decent heat. The outlet is usually just a swivel head with a fine spray nozzle on the end, optimised to give a decent spray of water with low flow. The safety device is usually just a silicone rubber ball that gets blown out by the water pressure if the spray nozzle clogs or gets blocked by a user. If the ball doesn't disappear down the drain it may be possible to stuff it back in carefully. This unit is a scaled down version of the classic electric shower, which has a higher rating of 7 to 10kW for a more ample supply of hot water on demand. The huge advantage of electric showers is that the water is only heated on demand, instantly available at any time and the conversion of power to heat the water is 100% efficient. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Although aimed at the catering industry, this style of heat light would be good for cold workshops and garages which are often impractical to heat. It gives a rich golden light and literally instant heat as soon as it is turned on, due to its strong infrared component that heats you in the same way as sunshine. Note that this assembly is intended for use in an enclosed rail system, and the holder does have bare exposed electrical contacts at the end. That makes it less suitable for use as a bare unit. It really does need a suitable heat-proof enclosure. It may be possible to use the lamp in a suitably sized halogen floodlight housing, noting that the lamps are available in differing lengths. 118mm is a very standard size. It's designed for an open fronted enclosure, so I'm not sure it would be ideal to have it in a glass fronted one - especially as it is optimised for heat generation. For a more complete package you could use a chicken coop heat light which uses a ceramic Edison screw base in an aluminium reflector, or you could use one of the outdoor patio style halogen heat units. For many years I enjoyed having a 500W halogen light above my workbench, which was a very useful source of light and felt like sunshine in the winter months. Way too hot in summer though. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Here's a link to an upcoming live stream I'll be doing with my brother Ralfy the whisky lovin' undertaker. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDKpK3pOXE0 Here's a link to Joe's gofundme for his son's treatment:- https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-logan-beat-caner?utm_campaign=p_lico+share-sheet&utm_medium=copy_link&utm_source=customer (It might not work in the UK. It keeps throwing up an error for me - it might be a currency thing.) Some great channels to check out for trade inspiration:- MQ Elevators - a Canadian channel showing the daily work of an elevator mechanic. https://www.youtube.com/@MQElevators/videos South main Auto - hang out with Eric as he traces vehicle faults:- https://www.youtube.com/@SouthMainAuto/videos HVACR videos - follow Chris as he repairs commercial equipment:- https://www.youtube.com/@HVACRVIDEOS/videos Michigan Heating Guy - follow Joe as he does home service calls:- https://www.youtube.com/@MiHeatingGuy/videos Here's the creepy video with water splashing everywhere:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rrp46j9A45I Mouse's Etsy store where he sells his hand-made flashing pins:- https://www.etsy.com/shop/Flashything You can download the Gerber manufacturing file for the big supercomputer here:- https://www.bigclive.com/freebies.htm (A4 gallium) Here's the full supercomputer video:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7f8jgvvJe-Q

For its simplicity this is a great visual effect. A 3D chamber with bright stars floating around inside it. It's not really a hologram as such, more of a prismatic illusion using moving LEDs and a complex prismatic film. This unit is a Luxa Starlighting Rainbow Starburst Pyramid. It was bought from a local garden centre, but may be available under different names in other countries. I love the simplicity of the slip-ring assembly in this. It's optimised for easy manufacture with multiple contact points for reliable power transfer. The gold plated domed contacts and thick PCB tracks with a generous layer of grease should give a long lifespan. Especially with the slow rotation of the heavily geared motor. I should take the junky eBay one apart to compare the mechanism. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

It's probably just as well this light isn't actually a 100W floodlight, since the basic heatsinking would result in very short LED lifespan. The actual power is more realistic for the size of LED and the heatsink. The LED panels were mounted with a bead of silicone down each side and a grid of heatsink compound underneath. Note that in common with many grey import LED floodlights, the earth wire is not connected internally, so these lights pose a shock hazard if the circuitry fails or water buildup occurs internally. If you accept it for what it is and add the earthing yourself then it's actually a fairly useful light. The internal circuitry is novel in the way it differs from other floodlights, with the driver circuitry on a separate PCB instead of on the same module as the LEDs. Temu have now removed the light from sale due to the safety issue. They seem much more proactive than other online platforms in this regard. Quick shout-out for my friend Joe, who has an excellent technical YouTube channel where he records himself doing heating system installations and repairs. His videos will help launch many young Americans into a lifelong career. He's going through a very rough time due to his son Logan's (successful) cancer treatment, and the associated medical bills. Watch this video to see the reality of the daily work of American blue collar workers:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rrp46j9A45I If you watch to the end you'll see he's close to the edge and really needs support. If you can spare a few dollars he'd really appreciate it right now:- https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-logan-beat-caner?utm_campaign=p_lico+share-sheet&utm_medium=copy_link&utm_source=customer This a genuine gofundme that will really help a family in need.

This style of light is commonly available on eBay and other online platforms. This one came from a UK outlet called One Beyond and represents huge value for money just for the components to make a custom light. Even out the box it is excellent for adding a little extra light at the bench or splashing some ambient light on a wall. In a power outage it would also make a very comforting light when used with a USB power bank. It's actually worth buying just for the components. The huge lens captures a lot of light from the LED, and the aluminium case provides good heatsinking for your own choice of LED. You could have a lot of fun just messing around with this and some Luxeon star style LEDs. Note that if using small nuts and bolts to attach the LED to the back with a dab of heatsink compound, it is advised to use insulating washers as otherwise the nuts or bolts can bridge pads on the classic star style LEDs. The case and lens assembly could make a very interesting project housing. Just be aware that it would probably cause issues if used where sunlight could shine directly into it. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This unit is actually pretty good. It produces an RGB nebula effect with a laser starfield. The design is solid and functional, with a neat magnetic swivel head for aiming the output. But I strongly recommend against using the laser option where people can view it directly, as the laser is quite bright and probably has a high invisible infrared content. For power the unit uses a USB supply with a current of around 500mA. The circuit board is logical and the optical system uses a novel cradle for edge-driving the nebula (distortion) disk. There is one slight design glitch. The motor should really have a flyback diode or capacitor across it to avoid damage to the transistor when it is turned off and the collapsing field causes a voltage spike. The mystery holes that looked like a speaker grill are in the location of the infrared receiver, so probably just for that. I mentioned Optikinetics who are an iconic effects projection company who originated in the disco era, and are still actively producing specialist effects projectors for prominent entertainment venues. (I've installed their equipment in Disney theme parks.) If you're looking for an original oil wheel, kaleidoscope effect or this nebula effect on a bigger scale, then Optikinetics are still the professional choice. (Not a sponsor.) https://optikinetics.co.uk/ If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This unit is powered by three AA cells, but could be hacked to a USB supply. The manufacturer has tried to intensity match the LEDs with the result that the green LED is powered at a very low 3.8mA, while the yellow LED is being grilled at 150mA even though it's still much dimmer! A set of identical colour blue, green or white LEDs would improve battery life greatly, while still being a bright and useful light for adding a touch of style on a temporary basis. An interesting twist would be to make the unit rechargeable, as it has loads of room for lithium cells. Although this light came from a UK High-street store (One Beyond), it may be available from other sources. At £3 the price is worth it for the case and lenses alone. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Having ordered a box of what I thought were going to be at least 220V (Chinese voltage) bulbs I was a bit disappointed when they arrived and were 120V. I ended up keeping them, and I'm glad I did as the design is minimalist and interesting, making it quite easy to modify them. The filaments are actually using phosphor on blue LEDs to match the globe colour, which helps make up for the inefficiency of the circuitry. This is the first time I've seen such a minimalist approach, where the resistor leads aren't just the connection to the base, but also support the filament. If I'd had some here I'd have used half watt resistors, but all I had were quarter watt or 1W in that value. The half watt resistors would have fitted into the plastic sleeves better, although I'm not sure how wise it is to have hot resistors stuffed into a plastic base like that. In higher voltage countries they could have made a two filament "vee" for much higher output and efficiency. I'm quite tempted to do that by merging two bulbs into one. There is a dedicated video just about the lamp base crimping tool. It's used to pinch the metal into the base of plastic globes:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5N24xvDEkM If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

These things are all over the usual online selling platforms at the moment, so I thought I'd buy some and explore their mechanism of operation. It turns out that their mechanism basically involves deception and fraud, so these products are perfectly suited to selling platforms like eBay, Temu, Wish and AliExpress who facilitate the sale of such things. In reality, the rogue sellers have reimagined just about every dashboard mounting device as the new "molecular microwave de-icer" to cash in on the non technically inclined who are desperate to avoid scraping ice off their windscreens in the morning. These units do definitely have a molecular effect though. Mainly in the form of emitting chemical aroma molecules that may or may not be nice to breathe. I'd guess that anyone trying to complain about these to the sellers will be fobbed off with delay tactics and a 50% refund offer as a last resort. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Compared to the generic eBay units, this temperature controller is much better built and uses traditional power components and an external high current relay. The HVAC techs can judge will be the true reference if this type of module is reliable or not, as they may have come across them in use. The power supply is a traditional potted 2VA transformer, and the external relay means that when it does inevitably fail due to the number of switching cycles, it can be swapped easily without messing around with the controller and settings. The circuit design is traditional and very time-proven with good filtering on the thermistor input. This particular unit is a heating controller that could be used directly with resistive heating loads. It's notable that the PCB is a standard unit with the provision for two thermistors (plus circuitry for a third) and the capability of driving up to three external relays. It has provision on the module for a fourth button and a sounder. These are normally quite expensive, even on eBay, and I lucked out with a more affordable one being sold as a "refrigeration controller" when in fact it turned out to be a heating version. The display unit normally shows the measured temperature, but if the button is pressed briefly it flashes the set temperature and allows the user to adjust it within a range that has been determined by the installer. To program the unit the installer or service engineer holds the set button in for six seconds. When E1 is displayed the set button can be used to step through the options and the up/down buttons used to adjust them as follows. E1. The lowest temperature that can be set by the user. E2. The highest temperature that can be set by the user. E3. Hysteresis - the number of degrees from the set value that the unit activates. E4 Delay start - a time from zero to ten minutes that avoids frequent cycling of the load. E5 Thermistor calibration - allows the accuracy to be adjusted vs a calibrated thermometer. C1 Units of measurement - Celsius or Fahrenheit. If no button is pressed for ten seconds the unit stores the new settings and reverts back to its normal display. The hysteresis setting is to avoid rapid cycling of the load by adding a few degrees between on and off. If hysteresis is set to 3 degrees and the set temperature is 18 degrees then the unit will turn off the heater when it reaches 18 degrees, but not turn it back on until the temperature drops to 15 degrees. (18 minus the hysteresis value.) The delay start is a time setting to allow a load like a compressor to equalise pressure to reduce the risk of stalling if cycled off and on quickly, and also to reduce the stress on equipment caused by frequent starting. In the case of a heating unit like this one it may be set to zero. Let me know if you've come across these in the wild, and how reliable they are. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Although this module's design is different to the last one I looked at, it has some pros and cons. Better voltage monitoring circuitry, standard display multiplexing, but poorer electrical separation and no discharge resistor across the dropper cap, which means this module can give you quite a sting when used on its own with no other load to shunt the residual charge. The unit has the facility for calibration across a much smaller range, which gives better accuracy, but in this case was just on the edge of being able to calibrate the voltage. The geeks could fine tune it to their own accuracy with resistor tweaks. Although rated from about 70V to 500V I would say that the electrical separation on the PCB is not ideal for the higher voltages. Make sure you use a ceramic fuse with this module. The main issue is close connector pins and the generously flooded ground plane that goes into the high voltage areas it shouldn't, and increases the risk of tracking and flashover. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

If you've ever seen the little bit of brown paper wrapped around a new bearing or tool, and wondered what it's for, then here's the answer. A VCI (Volatile/Vapour Corrosion Inhibitor) is an oily liquid that is often supplied pre-soaked into a slow release carrier like a sponge, porous tablet, paper or plastic block. Its purpose is to slowly release a vapour that coats all surfaces in an enclosure with a molecular layer of oil to shield surfaces against water vapour and oxygen to limit oxidation. They are used to protect entire electrical panels, toolboxes, storage cabinets and individual tools or components against corrosion. What are your thoughts on the composition of these? Is it just a fine oil and solvent like WD40, a blend of volatile and heavier oil or something more complex. Have you ever come across the use of camphor or other materials in a similar application? As mentioned in the video, it's important not to use VCIs in panels with modern solid state dehumidifier panels, as the deposition of an oil film on them will prevent them from operating correctly, since they work by absorbing humidity and transferring it outside using electroosmosis. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This was an odd but very pleasing find on eBay. It's an original Philips TUV6 special purpose germicidal lamp that uses a resistor in the base as a ballast, and a novel internal electrode system to initiate the arc at relatively low voltage. The internal discharge is quite intriguing because it uses neon as a carrier gas for the mercury vapour, so the electrodes at both ends glow orange, with a blue glow in the middle. I'd guess these found use in sterilising cabinets, food machinery, water treatment and possibly EPROM erasers. Here's a page on the Lamptech website that gives a bit more information. http://www.lamptech.co.uk/Spec%20Sheets/D%20MC%20Philips%20TUV6.htm The scientific test on remote exposure to UVC is to determine the psychological effect of suggested harm. In reality no UVC light will actually make it through the lens of my camera, and your display certainly can't emit any wavelengths in that region. Instead you saw an RGB emulation of the low level visible spectral lines in the mercury discharge. Your eyes and skin will not experience any adverse effect whatsoever and your stool will remain firm and under control. However, these lamps can NOT be viewed directly with the naked eye, as it will cause temporary surface damage identical to the arc-eye experienced by welders when exposed to an electrical arc directly or as a reflection. The result is an intense discomfort some time after the exposure, that feels like having sand in your eyes. The effect does wear off fairly quickly, but is extremely unpleasant while happening. Painkillers and specialist eye drops can help with the discomfort. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Much as I'd love to tell you these actually work, they are another product that aims to deceive and act as a placebo. Proper antenna design is literally a specialist industry of its own, and slapping a conductive sticker onto your phone is more likely to reduce your signal than improve it. On a plus note, at least this sticker isn't radioactive like the crazy 5G defense stickers. There's nothing new about this scam. In the very earliest days of mobile phones they soon came out with window stickers that claimed to divert RF energy into your home from outside to give better reception. This one is extra tacky, because it makes much less effort to look real. Instead of being a slim PCB it's literally just a sticker with fake tracks printed on it and even the intriguing "chip" in the middle is just a printed black square. If you actually want one of these then save your money and make a sticker out of the thumbnail of this video. It will be just as effective. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I got this completely wrong. I expected it to be for galvanic separation and impedance matching between the 75 ohm CCTV output and the 100 ohm CAT5/6 cable. In reality it's just for impedance matching. In my defense, it is called a balun (balanced to unbalanced) and I'd describe it more as an impedance matcher. If you want to know what that's about then here are some Wikipedia links with enough formulas to satisfy the most geeky data-nerd. For the rest of us it will make some pretty tough reading. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Characteristic_impedance https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impedance_matching https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_termination

Note - after the hack the iron will just keep flashing it's red LED to show it's cooling down forever, because the software thinks the tip is still warm. You have to remember to unplug the unit from the battery for total shutdown. For such a nicely designed soldering iron it seems really odd that every single model of these has been supplied set to an unusually high tip temperature that stresses the element and will destroy the tips quickly. With older models you could nudge that down with a button clicking calibration sequence covered in a different video. With this one it takes the addition of a resistor in the handle to get down to a sensible tip temperature. The sticking power button was just a tolerance issue with the case. If you experience the same thing you may be able to resolve it by slightly loosening the case screw closest to the button. I missed one line from my schematic. The chip's connection to the zero volt rail. The circuit design is pretty solid with extra safety features that you don't find in generic products. I'd like to know what the chip is - if it's a standard rebadged microcontroller or if it's a cordless-tool specific one. The temperature sensor in these is probably an RTD - Resistance Temperature Detector. They are often based on a simple coil of a pure metal wire that shows a significant resistance change with heat. They have a very consistent response and are very resilient to high temperatures. They are simpler than thermocouples, both in construction and their associated circuitry. The 33 ohm resistor I added is fine for normal soldering tasks with leaded solder, but you may wish to use a 22 ohm resistor for a bit more zing. The temperatures I measured during tests (after a stabilisation time) were:- 100 ohm = 300C 56 ohm = 340C 47 ohm = 360C 33 ohm = 370C 22 ohm = 380C 10 ohm = 425C The results may have been skewed slightly by thermal inertia and other factors. After the hacks these irons are pretty good. Very convenient with the cordless freedom and quick heat-up time. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Given eBay's shocking reputation for facilitating the import and sale of extremely dangerous goods, it's a pleasant surprise to find an import that seems to be compliant with safety standards. Note that due to the unregulated nature of eBay there is no guarantee that an identical looking listing would supply the same product. The fact this unit has memory for the last setting means it might be a useful replacement for existing favourite strings of lights that also use the two wire 31V system. Quite a tricky one to reverse engineer due to the use of an unusual switcher chip configuration on the primary side. The secondary side is very minimalist due to the use of an ASIC (Application Specific Integrated Circuit) that deals with all the lighting sequences, driving the LEDs with an integrated H-bridge and also storing the current selection to non volatile memory. This unit puts out around 30V of alternating polarity. The LED string is wired as ten parallel circuits of thirty LEDs , all wired in a series string to give a combined voltage of about 30V. Alternate LEDs in each parallel section are wired with opposite polarity to allow simple 2-channel flashing sequences. Static mode is actually rapid switching between the two channels. I swapped out the sense resistor to see how it affected the power. 2.67 ohms (original) total unit power 4.5W (113mA LED current) 3.3 ohms total unit power 3.8W (100mA LED current) 3.9 ohms total unit power 3.6W (96mA LED current) 4.7 ohms total unit power 3.1W (73mA LED current) 5.1 ohms total unit power 2.2W but unstable with notable intermittent shimmer. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This product has a very Japanese feel to it. It's exactly the sort of random gadget they love. The main functionality is to detect movement in its vicinity, and then when the movement has stopped it pouts out a small amount of ozone enriched air to combat odours. Aside from its advertised use for a cat litter tray, it would also have uses in other areas like a fridge or cupboard where the opening of the door and other activity would trigger a burst of air sterilisation. The ozone is created by the action of an electrical corona discharge, which splits air molecules apart into their separate atoms temporarily, allowing them to recombine in active forms like ozone (three atom oxygen) which is unstable and donates its third oxygen atom to anything in the vicinity, oxidising it in the process. That could be an odour molecule, fungal spore, virus or bacteria. The oxidation has the effect of disrupting things at a molecular level, reducing odours and damaging spores, viruses and bacteria. It's an odd, but neat unit. For the technically inclined, it's useful to clean the little ozone generator from time to time or best performance. I tested the unit for a while, so the pattern on the ozone ring was caused by the strong oxidising effect concentrated in that area. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is the first of two very similar looking units I bought to compare the circuitry. The most notable features of this one are the tri-state multiplexed display and slightly over minimalist power supply and circuitry. As with most of these generic grey import items, the design does not really take electrical separation seriously, so I'd recommend a suitable HRC fuse to protect against failure. It seems accurate enough, and does have a calibration potentiometer on it with a sweep covering 130V which makes it a bit too wide for easy calibration. But I did get it spot on, using a Fluke meter as a reference. All the circuitry is live when active, so care should be taken when calibrating it. I recommend a plastic trimmer adjustment tool. The minimalist circuitry means that the software is probably looking for a peak voltage value on the pulsing input signal and basing its reading on that. Technical data:- Power 0.3W Current 27mA Power factor 0.04 - which is normal for this type of power supply and low voltage circuit The 330nF capacitor will be a higher value than needed for anything other than the lowest supply voltage. For higher voltages the capacitor value could be reduced, which would reduce the power and take the strain off the zener diode. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Despite looking suspiciously like a urinal, this glossy white device is intended for mounting above eye height, which would make using it as a urinal quite messy. It also operates at 240V which would also make using it as a urinal quite hazardous to your "bits". In reality it's an insect trap that uses a sticky surface to catch insects lured in by its near-UV glow (they claim 385nm). These still seem to be available on eBay, but I'm not sure about the availability of replacement sticky boards for them, so you may have to get creative. Despite claiming a power of 2W per "tube" the LED strips only dissipate approximately 0.86W of power. So if these do actually attract flies (I've none to test it with) then I'd guess it would be best suited to a small area. It would be interesting to compare its performance with and without the diffuser. But that would expose live connections on the LEDs. The capacitor voltage rating being exceeded is a bit odd, but easily solved. However it might impact the reliability of the unit. The LEDs are being run quite gently at 12mA, so they should hopefully last a good length of time. The general construction seems quite good. It's a fairly stylish design and fits together well. I think they may have designed in the option for use with fluorescent UVA tubes too, with suitable holders and ballast. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Aside from the very weird and misleading product images on eBay (it's not full of beads or radioactive), this isn't too bad for what it is. I'm not totally convinced it's better than a plain scarf, but it does heat the back of your neck with a 4.5W panel. The listing claims the unit is washable, and to be fair, the USB connector has a tight cap, the control module is potted in silicone and the heating element is very soft and flexible. The heating panel is made with what appears to be a carbon fibre and polyester thread, literally overlocked into place with plain thread, and is terminated to wires with brass-themed steel crimps. The control module is quite useful. It has very simple construction and a staggering 12 LEDs for even button illumination. It has a classic 8-pin chip, a MOSFET for switching the heater, and very few other components. Heat level is in three stages:- Red = 100% duty cycle Blue = 75% duty cycle Green = 60% duty cycle (maybe 50%) The module could switch other loads too, but inductive ones like motors would require a flyback diode across the coil. The module could even be used as a slow sign flasher. These are all over eBay if you search for heated scarf. There's a huge price range. This one cost £6 including local UK shipping. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I chose this lamp to take apart because it has an interesting style. It's very similar to a fashionable (and expensive) designer compact fluorescent lamp called Plumen that was very popular with architects and designers because it "made a statement". This one is based on two shaped plastic tubes with two parallel flexible LED filaments running through them. Each filament is based on a flexible PCB strip with a series parallel array of LEDs to give a high operating voltage from one end of the strip to the other. That means they can use a fairly standard linear driver inside. There's another of those mysterious inline regulating chips to add an extra layer of current regulation to the LEDs. These seem common in dimmable lamps, and I think it's a way of regulating the LED current based on ripple from the current limited supply to the capacitor, that will be affected by the duty cycle of the dimmer output. It could be that the chip detects when the voltage across its internal sense resistor has dropped too low and then regulates the current down to the point it can maintain an acceptable level continuously, with its external capacitor acting as a simple analogue memory. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Doing the dangerous things so you don't have to. I recommend against opening lithium cells, as they have some undesirable chemicals inside and any residual charge can be unleashed suddenly as heat, vapour and flames. This cell was removed from a new style of disposable stimulant inhaler that has clearly been re-engineered for machine assembly. As part of that streamlining they have removed a lot of the wiring by using a PCB with a lithium cell in a solderable capacitor style can. Note that it is still a lithium ion cell and not a supercapacitor. Despite being marked as 360mAh, the cell tested at around 280mAh input charge over a few cycles. If that is the initial factory-supplied capacity then this brand (elf) has near halved the usable life of the unit from the original 500mAh cells. That could explain why the main competitor (crystal) is so popular, since it still uses a 500mAh cell. As mentioned in the video, the cell was made safer for disassembly by fully discharging it to near zero volts. There's a common misconception that it's the lithium in these cells that makes them explode in flames when things go wrong. In reality it's the stored energy that is the biggest hazard. The small amount of lithium in these cells is diffused into the electrode materials. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Such an odd twist on these vapour producing devices. This is apparently the MKII version of this product, and probably the last here due to the imminent ban of disposable versions. I'd like to thank James for sending a picture of the circuitry in one of these. It looked interesting enough that I bought two for us to explore. The design seems to have been optimised for machine manufacture with much less wiring and a PCB that separates the pressure sensor and the control chip. Annoyingly the chip seems to be an economy version without the internal charging circuitry, as it would have made recharging it much easier with the two pin heater connector. The lithium cell in a capacitor style package is a bit scary to remove from the PCB, as there is a lot of ground plane metal in the vicinity of the positive connection so shorting it out would be quite easy - with the usual freaky lithium cell results. I recommend running the cell down to 3V before attempting removal, as the biggest hazard will be the potential stored energy. A hot air gun for carefully melting both solder pads at once might be a viable option. Although marked as being 360mAh I have run a few charge/discharge cycles and both cells took a charge of approximately 280mAh, so the capacity will be slightly less. That kinda fits the size of the package with the space taken up by the rubber plug at the lead end. It's close to half the original cell capacity, meaning the device will last half as long! The rival "crystal" version still seems to be using a 500mAh cell for much better run time. All the prominent manufacturers of these devices have known that a ban was inevitable, and have had pod based rechargeable versions available for a while. I'm not sure why the shops continue to push the non rechargeable versions. I guess the imminent ban will fix that issue, ironically taking up LESS space on their shelves! It will also unfortunately mean the end of the glorious street-lithium era where the technical geeks would swoop on these discarded devices to harvest their lithium cells for projects. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

To be fair, these were very cheap. So I wonder if they were the "off tolerance" ones. It's not uncommon to see the 2835 LED package driven quite hard in modern LED bulbs, but in this instance it appears to be a very ordinary LED on a standard PCB being driven at unusually high current. The cases are quite nice though, and do come apart fairly easily. So it could be used as the basis of a project, or even as a stylish and chunky USB plug. Update:- You can scratch the carbon area to adjust the resistance to something more sensible. The green one now runs at 40mA. Here's the data:- Red - 22 ohm and 25 ohm passing 150mA Green - 15 ohm and 15 ohm passing 218mA Blue - 15 ohm and 16 ohm passing 208mA Cold white - 18 ohm and 20 ohm passing 168mA Warm white - 56 ohm and 75 ohm passing 57mA If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The first thing I want to say is that if you were affected by this incident then you are NOT going to suffer permanent eye damage. The significant wavelength here (254nm) only affects the very surface of your eyes and skin. It's an unpleasant experience - but literally a daily job hazard for welders, so you're going to be absolutely OK. Your favourite painkiller will help with the discomfort. This is the second incident involving the use of exposed UVC germicidal tubes in a public area recently. The last one was the Hypebeast fashion label event which bizarrely was also in Hong Kong. I wonder if there's a connection between the two events. From what I can see in the random pictures of the event I found online, the stage itself does not look a hazard. It seems to be using conventional LED based lighting fixtures that are either using deep violet LED washes or generic RGBW fixtures. These do not pose a safety issue. The TOILETS however are a different story. It's a cool bit of theming, but the correct tubes to use for the effect they wanted are blacklight (actually a bright blue) or blacklight-blue (deep violet) tubes that convert the dangerous wavelengths to visible and near-visible light using phosphors and filters. It looks like they've used UVC germicidal tubes, which means it was the most sterile toilets EVER but at the expense of "user comfort". The people who spent a lot of time admiring the artwork or queuing in the affected areas are the most likely to have been affected. Surely the people setting the event up must have experienced issues? Maybe they just didn't know what caused them. There was an interesting case where a maintenance operative replaced the UVA tubes of an insect zapper in a restaurant kitchen with UVC germicidal tubes and caused lots of skin and eye irritation for the staff for a long time until a savvy customer alerted them to the cause. UVC tubes are an essential part of water purification, air purification, hospital sterilisation and food-factory machine self-sterilisation. But should never be exposed for direct viewing or skin exposure. For reference, the Bored Ape Yacht Club is an NFT (Non Fungible Token) investment "thing" where there is an archive of 10,000 computer generated cartoon ape themed images based on a series of fixed combinations of colours and features. People buy the intellectual property rights to an image for a surprising price (peaking at over 3 million dollars for a single image so far) as a form of currency. In 2022 The U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission began an investigation into the Bored Ape "currency" because they forgot they only represent the American dollar, and that they have as much right to regulate crypto currencies as they have to regulate the Euro - and as such should keep their nose out of it. Personally I think that all currencies in the world are completely fabricated and the only true currencies are trade-skills and knowledge. The tricky bit is getting the most skilled people to appreciate their own value. So in summary. If you ever see a completely clear fluorescent tube or compact fluorescent lamp with a strangely alluring cyan/turquoise glow, then avoid looking at it. And if other people are exposed then it may be worth raising it as a safety issue. This does NOT apply to neon signs that sometimes use the raw mercury vapour glow as a feature colour, but use tubes made of soda or lead based glass that inherently blocks the UVC wavelength. They are usually safe to view directly. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The random black dots in the dead lamps makes me think they've had more than a simple overcurrent experience, especially as the solar unit has a current regulator set for 220mA (about .7W at 3V) meaning that a single lamp would handle the current on its own. Thanks to the wonders of zero electrical standards the lighting loom on this string of lights is full compatible with one used for 120/240V lights. That makes me think that someone without proper electrical knowledge has tried to extend a higher voltage set with this solar string and in doing so, blown every single lamp. They have then probably returned the set they destroyed as being "faulty". It's interesting that the phosphor gel covered LEDs actually break high current in a controlled manner like a fuse without exploding. Previous tests have shown that they are almost boring when overvolted. It's likely that the gel contains the fault in a controlled manner without letting a metal arc form from the failing tracks and bond wires. There is a single chip solution for powering LEDs from a single lithium cell, but in this instance the designer has gone with a fairly complex circuit using some novel components to achieve a more customisable result. The large solar panel looks promising. I just need some sunshine to test it. The 18650 lithium cells are each marked 1800mAh with a date code of 2021 and are branded Yueyu. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is the LED driver out of one of the floodlights at my work bench. It started blinking out briefly, so I swapped it out before it went into full-on disco mode as they often do. The most common failure of these drivers is the degradation of the output capacitor due to the stress of operating at high frequency and being used in a hot enclosure. With switch mode power supplies the secondary capacitor has to have a very low ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance) to deal with the ripple of current flowing in and out of it 20,000 times per second or more. As the capacitors age they develop a higher ESR which can accelerate the aging faster. That sometimes shows as pressure build up from the failing electrolyte causing the top of the capacitor to bulge or split. When the capacitors ESR is high enough it can't do its job and the primary side feedback circuit can interpret that as a fault and cause the control circuit to shut down before attempting to start again. In most power supplies like this there is a bootstrap circuit where the control chip's supply capacitor is trickle charged via high value resistors at power up until it reaches a threshold voltage that the control chip can start running. When the power supply starts successfully it provides its own power via an extra winding that is also used for feedback to monitor the load. If the circuit fails to provide that power due to a fault on the secondary side then the control circuit capacitor discharges to a threshold where the control chip cuts off again. The cycle then repeats. That's what causes the slight delay before the light starts and also the pulsing effect when there is a fault. A quick fix for many of these types of circuit is to routinely replace the main capacitors, ensuring that the bootstrap and output capacitor are low ESR types. The main input capacitor can be a traditional electrolytic as it only operates with a 100/120Hz ripple. Another common failure is the secondary side diode, which is usually a high speed schottky type. If the current sense resistors close to the control chip or switching transistor are visibly burned then it often hints at a failure of the chip or transistor. That often has knock-on effects of rectifier damage and sometimes transformer damage too. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

One of my bench lights started intermittently blinking off and on, and before it got too bad I decided to swap the driver in it, since it was the most likely issue. If left longer the blinking would have got more frequent until the light was pulsing continuously. If attempting a repair on a similar light, ensure the power is turned off and check the integrity of the earth/ground connection in the light. In this style of light you can use a lower power driver with a higher power LED. I use a 20W driver with a 50W LED. My bench lights actually have a fairly easy life, since they are on a PIR sensor so that they turn on automatically when I approach the bench and turn off if I'm away from it for a few minutes. It's hard finding a good quality driver with proper electrical noise filtering that actually fits in one of these floodlight cases. I opened a few lights, found a couple of suitable drivers and then chose the one that looked better quality. The driver that failed is explored in another video. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A new and improved version of my bulb making script that allows you to make proper screw-in bulbs or just fancy covers in any size, colour and style you like. To use the script, copy it from the text below and paste it into the empty editor window of openSCAD. OpenSCAD is free software that lets you design 3D objects by describing them with a script. You can download it here:- https://openscad.org/ You can then adjust the variables at the top of the script to make the size and shape of bulb you require. Then it will create a custom STL file for you. Don't be daunted by the fact it's a "script" based system,. It's perfect for generating customisable components like this. The process of rendering your custom bulb will be dependent on the speed of your computer and the size of the bulb. It is doing a mass of complex maths to compute the shape, so it may take a while to render. Be patient - have a cup of coffee. For faster experimental renders reduce the facets to 6 for hexagonal lamps that render faster. Be careful if using the covers over hot light sources like old fairy lights. They may get too hot. It shouldn't be a problem with low power LED sources. Here's a link to the very hard to find E10 bulb bases and matching holders:- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003759310360.html The script is at the bottom of this description area. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #electronicscreators Here's the script:- //Custom fairy light cap generator 2023 //This is a FAST print by default //You may wish to make minimum layer time zero and //print at a lower speed like 40mm per second if it //all goes a bit floppy. //You can adjust these 3 variables to suit your application //Make sure you leave the = and ; intact on either side basedia=9.8; //outside diameter of base baselip=8; //length of base lampsize=20; //diameter of globe //Advanced variables facets=100; //facets on bulb 6=hexagonal 100=round wall=0.4; //thickness of wall (multiple of print nozzle) tip=5; //diameter of tip of bulb shape=1.7; //0.7-1.7 1=diamond 1.7=round base //Do not make changes below here $fn=facets; difference(){ union(){ //Outside shell of globe hull() { //base of globe translate([0,0,(lampsize/shape)+baselip]) sphere(d=lampsize); //top of globe translate([0,0,(lampsize*2)+baselip]) sphere(d=tip,$fn=100); //base cylinder interface translate([0,0,baselip-.1]) cylinder(h=.1,d=basedia,$fn=100); } //base cylinder cylinder(h=baselip,d=basedia,$fn=100); } //Inside hollow of globe hull() { //base of globe translate([0,0,(lampsize/shape)+baselip]) sphere(d=lampsize-(2*wall)); //top of globe translate([0,0,(lampsize*2)+baselip]) sphere(d=tip-(2*wall),$fn=100); //base cylinder interface translate([0,0,baselip-.1]) cylinder(h=.1,d=basedia-(2*wall)-.2,$fn=100); } //base cylinder interior translate([0,0,-1]) cylinder(h=baselip,d=basedia-(2*wall),$fn=100); //base internal ridge translate([0,0,baselip-1.1]) cylinder(h=1.2,d1=basedia-(2*wall),d2=basedia-(2*wall)-1,$fn=100); //x-ray cube //translate([-50,-50,-40]) //cube([100,50,100]); }

Sometimes I wonder how many of these dangerous strings of lights have been sold via eBay and other grey import sites over the past ten years. This one is different though, as it has a rotary pattern selector (keeps last setting), so well worth exploring. The main issues with these light strings is that they have poor electrical safety standards. Ultra thin and easily broken wire with no significant strain relief (the listing warns of a risk of breaking just while unrolling them!), loose covers over live connections on the controllers and often horribly under-rated resistors in the strings that can burn up. That seems to be more common with the shorter 100 LED strings. This one wasn't pushing the resistors too hard. I don't recommend having these lights where kids can play with them (all kids play with fairy lights) and where pets might nibble them inquisitively. Despite being advertised as suitable for outdoor use, these are NOT waterproof and will wick water between the wires and sleeving, resulting in a shock risk and fast failure due to DC accelerated corrosion. Note that in this video I did have exposed live electrical connections. As always, work to your own safety level. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I think I bought these from a shop called RME in Glasgow many decades ago. They're "IN-LINE" projection displays manufactured by Counting Instruments Ltd in the UK. Displays like this would have been used in electromechanical factory machines and counting and weighing applications. Because so little of the light from the tungsten lamps is used, the displays are very dim, so they need a light shield if they are in a brightly lit area. Control is by switching AC or DC to the appropriate digit's tungsten lamp. I worked on old equipment like this in the past and it was notable for the huge wiring looms. Quite intimidating to work on initially until you get familiar with the circuitry. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is a unit that Philips use in some of their LED street lights to protect the LED drivers from transients. Especially important when LED lights are used on the same circuits as discharge sources like low and high pressure sodium or metal halide, as some of the lamp ignition circuits are very spiky. When electronic halogen transformers first appeared on the scene they were very prone to failure when used on the same circuits as traditional transformers due to issues with the inductive spikes caused by the traditional transformers when switching. Now history may be repeating itself with mixed street light types. This unit may be intended to help get the light through the warranty period. I do like the open construction MOV modules. Unlike the potted MeanWell units with their encapsulated thermal fuses, these units use a simple spring contact. It even looks like the classic wavy-line fuse symbol. As with all Philips lighting products the design is pretty neat. Notably the resistor in series with the LEDs dropper cap circuit, that is designed to handle the full current if the capacitor fails short circuit. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Another Nitro OBD2 "Performance chip tuning box". While there are actually real systems for adjusting the engine management settings on a small number of older vehicles, the majority of manufacturers seem to lock their engine control systems down quite tightly to avoid warranty and liability issues. This is one of the many fake ones for people who succumb to the placebo power of blinky lights, and convince themselves that their car is more powerful and using less fuel. Some of these units do actually have microcontrollers in them that put on a fairly convincing "data exchange" light show like a network or modem. But the more recent ones have cost cut by implementing simple flashing light circuits. This one actually uses quite an interesting circuit that was well worth exploring, as a nice example of an op-amp oscillator. Note that this unit poses a continuous 7mA current draw and will potentially assist in running your battery flat over time. I love the fact that the button can be used to stall people looking for a refund by implying that they haven't used it correctly or put it in the right "mode". There's nothing quite like time and inconvenience to help people get over buyer's remorse. "Press the reset button and give it another month to learn your driving characteristics." "Press and hold the button for five seconds to change mode and try it again for a month." "press the button five times quickly to put it into compatibility mode, and give it another month." Temu are not a sponsor, I don't use their app or pay by card. I'm just having a Temu-moment in my quest to find dangerous or dubious devices from online sellers. They don't use child slaves as they are just a selling platform like amazon and aliexpress. Yes they exploit the postal system loophole like Wish and AlieXpress. The International Postal Union (not a labour union) controls that and appears to have dropped the ball. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

An interesting light, but also a prime example of how eBay sellers are very prone to out of control exaggeration to sell their wares. The circuitry in this mass produced item has been "optimised" to the hilt, with the charging of the lithium cell controlled by the microcontroller, no voltage regulation and no resistor in series with the LEDs which results in quite a squirmy current when tested on a bench supply. The LED current at various cell voltages was:- 4V = 2A 3.4V = 1A 3V = 600mA 2.5V = 11mA The lithium cell capacity yielded a slightly lacklustre 1200mAh on the first cycle. I may run some more cycles on it. There are a few hacks that can be done to this light. First one is to add a 1 ohm (2W) resistor (or higher) to cap the LED current to a sensible level. That will also give longer run time on a charge. The easiest hack is to swap the lithium cell for a higher capacity one, but note that the solar panel is probably only rated about 100mA on a good day. So the larger cell will only have an advantage in PIR only mode and with just occasional triggering. From a waterproofing perspective, the PCB would benefit from a coating of lacquer or grease to shield it from condensation, the battery contacts would also benefit from some grease and the on/off slide switch is best bypassed. The shape and angle of the case means that it should be fairly resilient to rain. The solar panel is laid into a recess in the plastic case and covered in resin. Extremes of temperature may cause delamination or cracking of the silicon strips. It will probably discolour and cloud quite quickly, but that can be improved by polishing it with a fine abrasive cream like T-cut or toothpaste. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Aside from making a huge mess, it took a surprisingly long time to reverse engineer this cartridge due to the clever way it forms ink and air channels that cross from side to side. I'll guess that the main reason for the complexity is that it needs to withstand a wide range of temperature variations and random orientations during shipping and storage. The air release valve had done its job well, as there was ink on one side, but none on the air intake side. It has been suggested that the biggest challenge these cartridges have to face is the significant variations in barometric pressure in different locations, and when being shipped by air in an unpressurised cargo hold. That could explain the large air void and pressure valve system. The sump tube may also be used for the filling process, as a tube with rubber seal could inject ink into that port if the outlet port was also actuated to provide a way out for the displaced air. I'd guess that the cartridge would be upside down for the filling process. That port has a plastic seal applied across it after manufacture. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

If you print a lot of glossy photos you will know how annoying and expensive it is when an ink cartridge runs out. Worse still, a new printer may only come with "demo" cartridges with hardly any ink in them, as they are looking to make their money from ink sales. After a VERY messy evening of completely dismantling an ink cartridge layer by layer, I discovered there is a hidden air valve built in, so I was pulling a vacuum in the cartridges with the syringe during this video. In the past Epson used to be one of the worst for locking down their cartridges, and Canon were the gift that kept on giving with their easily refilled cartridges and washable print heads. But that has now reversed with Canon being completely obnoxious by actively disabling printer features if you use an unofficial cartridge. (Like disabling the scanner!) Epson have gone the direction of selling more expensive Ecotank printers with a bulk ink system where you can literally pour large bottles of ink in and then print to your heart's content. I wonder if they will try to introduce a revenue protection system at some point to enforce their official inks. Prior to the ecotank printer I used an unofficial bulk ink tank system which sat next to the printer and connected to the ink cartridge adaptors with a ribbon-pipe system. It had a bit of circuitry and a push button so that if the printer saw the cartridge "getting low" you could just press a button and it would reset all the cartridge counters to full. Note that while the cheap generic inks will produce an acceptable quality image in the short term it is more likely to fade or colour shift than the proper inks. Companies like Epson spend a lot of money on ink chemistry research. With unbranded inks there's also the risk of clogging up a printhead if the ink contains random goo. Fortunately there are often ways to clean out ink systems if you're technically inclined. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This was a 5A current test on an excruciatingly thin copper coated steel cable supplied with a dangerous product purchased from eBay. The product was notable for putting out full mains voltage on a USB phone charging port, and using non rechargeable batteries with a very basic charging circuit that could make them explode. Here's the video of the horrific product this was from:- https://youtu.be/2EpIxtVVXcE If you really must buy cheap products from eBay and other equally safety-complacent platforms, then I recommend at the very least disposing of the supplied cables in a safe manner, and replacing them with cables purchased from reputable suppliers that comply with local safety regulations. On a typical power circuit this cable would have been a huge hazard due to its high resistance and ultra-thin wire. It could literally have set fire to furnishings in the event of a product fault, or even just using it with a higher power appliance. Sadly there are many equally bad cables with some using extra thick plastic to give the impression of having bigger conductors. The fire extinguisher I used is a Firestop aerosol unit that is a convenient size for little bench incidents. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I've featured these lights before, but it's surprising that they are still being sold on the eBay platform. Presumably these are based on a real product, and this is a minimal clone. Every corner has been cut, meaning that if you try charging your phone from this device while it is plugged in, it could make your phone live at full mains voltage. I tested the cable at 5A, and it burst into flames:- https://youtu.be/gwwiCftM4Qg eBay has no obvious way to report blatantly dangerous products. Over the past decade the number of directly imported killer products must be massive. Sometimes I wonder how many shocks and fires are caused by the grey imports. It would be really nice if eBay had a way to report dangerous products from the listings. But they seem to have everything else but that. The "NiMH" cells are very suspicious. They have the seal at the negative end which is odd as NiMH cells usually have it at the positive end. I'd normally expect NiMH cells to charge to around 1.5V when freshly charged and then settle down to about 1.2V, but these ones are showing a higher voltage than expected from a product that has been through storage and shipping. Further testing indicates that they are NOT rechargeable cells and therefore risk pressurizing internally and exploding if left on mains-charge. The super thin copper coated steel wire is quite impressively too. Basically a combustible fuse. I've subsequently tested it, and at 5A the cable was smoking significantly and the cores were glowing red hot. I like eBay, but I wish they'd clamp down on some of the dangerous items that are aimed at non technical consumers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is an optional attachment for contactors that is designed to detect a motor drawing more current than normal, and triggers a latching contact that turns the motor off. Motors draw a base current that increases with the load applied. There are many things that can cause excess load on a motor, like a physical obstruction, build up of debris in a machine, loss of lubrication or just wear and tear of bearings and guides. Another common overcurrent situation is loss of a phase, where the motor struggles to turn. That can cause many machines in a factory to trip their motor protection circuits. Some do have phase failure protection that will turn the machine off if it detects a phase failure or accidental reversal of phases. You do get programmable electronic ones now, but this one is a traditional bimetallic unit with low resistance heaters in series with the load that will cause the internal trip levers to deflect according to the current flowing through them. When I showed the trip mechanism activating at the end, the cream coloured section that was popping up had both the normally closed and normally open contact plates on it. These units can save expensive motor replacements. If they start tripping regularly it may be time to check the machine is running properly. Resist the temptation to nudge the trip threshold up above a sensible level. My suggestion of pressing reset buttons in panels is aimed at technically competent people who may have their own workshop. I don't recommend interfering with panels at a place where you are employed. That's best left to the maintenance department. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is a nice idea. A stylish table light that can be recharged and then provide cable free ambient illumination while dining. The choice of a touch sensor on what is basically an antenna wasn't such a great idea though, and this one was prone to going full disco intermittently. Things that can be improved. You can add a packer to isolate the touch sensor a bit more, and you can add another 18650 cell to double the run time (or more if you use high capacity cells. With a bit more effort you could fit a really large pouch cell in the base, and nudge the 4056 current programming resistor to 1.2K for faster charging. First full discharge/charge on the cell came in at around 1800mAh. With a little bit of creative redesign, this light could be a handy source of comfort lighting for camping, off-grid, power outage and apocalypse scenarios. The mechanical components alone are a very useful start to a custom lighting project. Update - the chip may be a 6010s https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Touch-Sensors_Sam-wing-6010S_C2974604.html (thanks jasonkmec1589 ) If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

These things are ridiculously cheap these days. Here are two LED-neon ornaments in completely different manufacturing styles. One uses classic linear LED strip and the other uses a clever two part housing and standard LED tape to create a double sided ornament. Both can be run from USB or from three AA cells. I strongly recommend rechargeable NiMh cells, which will give a good run time due to running the LEDs at lower current. Do NOT have AA cells in the battery holder if powering by USB as it will pump current from the USB supply into the cells, and potentially overcharge them. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

While quite neat, this light could be looked on as a project for making a better and longer lasting version. It's supplied with a suspiciously low capacity 14500 lithium cell. The number means 14mm diameter and 50.0mm long, and these normally have a capacity of around 750mAh, so the 280mAh measured is well short of the desired capacity. That makes it an easy upgrade to just put in a new cell - preferably one with solder tags, as soldering directly to a lithium cell like this is a bit taboo due to the risk of heat damaging the internal separator. There's also a position inside for an alternative rectangular cell with a rough dimension of 30mm by 40mm by 7mm. If the plastic cell guides are carefully cut out it could be possible to get a bigger cell in, including ones salvaged from disposable vapour devices. It should be viable to get a 1500mAh cell in to get five times the run time. Note that the LED PCB needs to have the glue cracked and then the PCB rotated to align the slots with the threaded sides to come out easily. When tested on a bench supply the current was:- 4.2V - high=200mA medium=125mA low=60mA 3.7V - high=150mA medium=93mA low=43mA 3.0V - high=58mA medium=37mA low=17mA Processor cuts off at 2.4V Quite a nice light with potential as the base for a custom project. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I decided to test if Temu were selling radioactive "health" items, and they are. eBay, amazon and the rest of the online marketplaces are guilty of selling radioactive stuff too. Often mis-described as negative ion devices when they really aren't. This is quite an impressive one. A nicely moulded poker-chip style pendant, but I really don't recommend wearing this around your neck. Fun item for those who like random radioactive novelties like uranium glass though. These things often contain thorium dioxide as the radioactive element. If you like radioactive stuff, you'll love Radioactive Drew:- https://www.youtube.com/@RadioactiveDrew/videos If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Maybe I should become the lamp-fairy and swap dead bulbs for new. This isn't the first dead LED bulb I've snaffled from a pub. The most notable one being a blue LED downlight from the toilets of a bar of ill repute. In this instance though, I took the flickering bulb out to see if I could see an obvious LED failure, but then realised how HOT it was for not producing light - and decided it was better not to put it back in. Totally crunchy inside, but enough evidence to trace the key chip manufacturer and deduce which of the example schematics had been used. It also explained why a dead bulb was still dissipating 2W of power as heat. One of the key points of failure was the use of all the LED filaments in series, meaning that a single failed LED caused the whole bulb to flicker and go dim. It's also quite interesting that the reason the base was still getting hot and dissipating a surprising 2W of power was because of the triac-dimmer friendly extra load section. It also identified a mystery component that I have come across in the past, but never worked out what it was. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is the circuit board out of my first multi-voltage tester when I was an apprentice in the 1980's. It was quite an expensive unit at the time, but is designed for professional use. The circuit seems simple enough with just a single sided circuit board and traditional through hole components, but it was an arduous thing to reverse engineer due to the very weird way the components are used to achieve a lot with the components of the era. There are two distinct sections. The simple two-LED polarity indicator with PTC resistor to regulate the current thermally, and the main section that does devious things with standard transistors. I think the PNP darlington is used to provide more current to the 12V LED, which has its own circuitry. The 39V zener seems to be capping the LED-transistor supply to protect against overvoltage. The LED transistors themselves are being used in a non-standard way that possibly allows them to cascade progressive LEDs in series for maximum intensity at low current. The LED supply is created by a fixed 120K resistor in parallel with a PTC thermistor that allows higher current to flow at lower voltages, but thermally regulates the current down at higher voltages. In the future I'll reverse engineer a generic Chinese multi-voltage test light to see if they have copied the circuitry from what I believe to be an original Steinel design. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Although this is a LIDL/Parkside unit it's probably available under various other brands around the world. I was expecting this to have the usual click-through intensity settings, but it's just a simple on/off. This is probably due to the fairly high operating voltage of the unit. It uses the classic three 18650 cell power pack used with a variety of tools, and the current draw is low enough that it should easily last a full shift on one charge. The LED is a standard "star" type, so can be swapped for a colour of your choice (I may swap in a warm white one). It could also be fitted with a near-UV LED for applications like leak detection. Although it's possible to hack the power down to a lower level for longer run time by removing one of the sense resistors, it is already fairly low at about 1W. I don't recommend increasing the current by using higher value sense resistors, as there is no heatsink other than the standard aluminium star backplate. The battery level indication is crude, but works. It's based on voltage dividers and the forward voltage of the LEDs, so they tend to fade as the voltage falls instead of having a solid transition. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This cube formed part of my first order from Temu (not a sponsor) who did actually ship the stuff to this little island in the Irish Sea via Royal Mail. When the package arrived this part was making an ominous rattling noise, as the motor and disk assembly had come adrift during transport. It really needs a different glue, since hot-melt doesn't stick well to waxy plastics. To remove the cube cover, drizzle some isopropyl alcohol - which is also called isopropanol and rubbing alcohol - down the sides of the cube where it enters the wooden base. Isopropyl alcohol releases the bond of hot melt glue quickly. Once the cube is off you can re-glue the motor assembly in. But you do have the option of removing the PCB, replacing it with a bit of aluminium as a heatsink and adding your own choice of higher power single colour LED with a suitable resistor. The four other LED positions on the PCB are all in parallel with the one in the middle to allow for other LED placement options. This unit produces a nice effect, and it has a handmade feel to it due to the manual assembly of the cube section from squares of rippled plastic. These type of lights are often worth buying just for the motor, ripple disk and the other rippled plastic panels. I got it from this listing if it is still there:- https://www.temu.com/goods.html?_bg_fs=1&goods_id=601099515492353 If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The phrase "military grade" best describes the very robust internal construction of this unit. The custom cast and machined heatsink assembly has strong sci-fi vibes and is both stylish and 100% functional. The seamless two material case is also very impressive. This unit had been detached from its mountings and left dangling by its cable outdoors. It is waterproof, but only when mounted the right way up, so it had filled with water and suffered terminal corrosion. The perfect excuse to take it apart and explore the insides. This is just a physical internal exploration. The science of RF energy is a black art and reverse engineering this unit would be largely pointless, since a lot of the magic is in the software. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Having looked at crappy grey-import surge protectors with very poor manufacturing quality control, I thought it would be a good idea to take apart a UK compliant one. Update:- The EPCOS component may be made by TDK and is probably a low profile gas filled spark gap. That makes sense for something that could pass current to earth/ground. It also explains the low stress connection method. If bought from a distributor this SPD would have cost £93 ($115) :- https://www.screwfix.com/p/crabtree-starbreaker-dp-type-2-miniature-surge-protection-device-40ka/174vf But fortunately I found a cheaper one on eBay in amongst some random electrical items. The construction is quite interesting, with a much more positive over-temperature trip system, and an unexpected difference in the technologies used for each of the two protected sections. Because of the continuing wall of new and often flippant electrical regulations being introduced by self appointed bodies with vested interests, these devices are currently being sold at a grossly inflated price. That should come down as they become "standard", even if the primary use seems to be to protect against a failing power distribution system with its increasing number of incidents caused by failing neutral/earth connections in the TNCS system. In a TNCS system, neutral and earth are supplied as a single conductor split at the point of entry, and failure of that system - usually at cable joints and splices, results in all the grounded metalwork potentially becoming live with respect to the general mass of earth. It can also cause phase imbalance resulting in the need for overvoltage protection. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

At £5, this is worth getting for the parts. It has lots of potential for being hacked for powering with USB (with series resistance) or a solar garden light module. The lamp itself has four filaments with 15 LED chips in each, so a total of 60 LEDs in parallel that start lighting at around 2.4V, and pass 100mA at around 2.7V. That's a decent brightness, so the use of a USB cable with two 10 ohm resistors would make this a very useful off-grid ornamental light. Running the lamp at that low current will also give it a very long lifespan. At a full 3V the current increases to 450mA (about 1.5W) so on fresh alkaline cells or freshly charged NiMh cells this will put out quite a lot of light. The ceramic base with glued-in threaded insert means it could also be retrofitted with other low power and low voltage bulbs for variety. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

If you've always wanted a string of lemon-yellow LEDs then Poundstretcher has them for you, although they do describe it as gold light. It's odd, because Poundstretcher actually has some very distinctive and nice solar stuff, but this set is maybe just skimping on the costs just a bit too much. Beyond the colour, the amount of silicon on the solar panel is strangely minimal. The case does have the places for three AA cells, so maybe this is an evolution from an older system with three NiMh cells in series being charged by more silicon sections. Only one of the positions has contacts. The unit does charge the NiMh cell (not the solar cell as I said in the video) even when the switch is off, which is a useful feature if you want to "save up sunshine" and run the lights longer when you need them. Not great, but if you REALLY love lemon yellow then it might be perfect for you, either as the full set or as a source of the LED string alone. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Another video filmed on the fly while travelling. Is the black background good or bad? These are classic LED MR16 bulbs bought from Poundland as a generic example of their style. They are designed to replace classic tungsten halogen downlight bulbs, but usually lack the intensity and rich full spectrum of the traditional bulbs. They make up for it by running with much lower power and heat. As always with the generic LED bulbs, they will probably be driving the LEDs to the edge of failure to guarantee future sales. My thoughts about the mystery "B" component are that maybe it was a backup option with two diodes in series in case one failed, or as an option for two different diode packages with a link in place of the unused one. The component that is there tests as a zero ohm link. Others have suggested that it might be an SMD ferrite bead, which also makes sense. I'll guess that the capacitor across the LEDs is partly for smoothing and reducing transient spikes of current. The other one to the zero volt rail is possibly for protecting against switching transients or reducing RF noise. Bulbs like this can be used with fixed voltage 12V DC LED drivers, traditional 50/60Hz halogen lighting transformers and battery power sources. But they are not recommended for use with electronic halogen transformers, as they put out an "equivalent" 12V supply as a series of higher voltage pulses that work well with traditional halogen bulbs, but will potentially damage LED bulbs. The electronic halogen transformers also require a minimum resistive load to operate in a stable way and may pulse or flicker the output if used with a low load. Some bulbs like this may also accommodate use at 24V. A hunt for the unmarked chip showed similar functionality to the AL8862, but it could also be a UM1350, MP2489 or one of many other similar devices. It's common for manufacturers to copy standard pinouts so they can offer their components as a cheaper substitute. These bulbs would be useful as off-grid work lights. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

These are really cheap and common devices on eBay, sold as toys for printing images onto thermally sensitive paper. This one came with several rolls including coloured paper and self adhesive label material. The printer can only print one colour, usually black, dictated by the paper itself. The app does allow printing of photos, and uses dithering to get rough shades of grey. Given the relatively low resolution, the images are surprisingly identifiable. The thermal printers are very minimalist and refined due to their widespread use in receipt and label printers. If you consider that almost every till has a thermal printer for ease of maintenance (no ink) and an absolute minimum of moving parts, then it makes them very cheap and available for items like this one. The printing is done by heating up the paper with a row of tiny resistors. When heated the thermally sensitive paper changes colour. Although the USB data lines are there, I plugged the printer into the USB port of my Chromebook and it didn't detect it. It may work with a PC. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

These surge protectors were being sold as "returns" from a major online retailer at a suspicious price of £10 for four. I felt the urge to buy a set to check out. It turns out they were perfect for sale on eBay since they have at least one major manufacturing defect that means they can't indicate when they have ceased to provide protection, and may possibly continue to pass current even when they are supposed to have triggered their thermal safety device. eBay is full of this stuff because they have no easy way to report a listing for a dangerous product. However, they DO have ways to report items that will undermine their profit. It's a shame the UK electrical industry is price gouging SPDs (Surge Protective/Protection Devices), as it encourages people to use rogue imports like these - which may well work, but will not always be made with proper quality control. I have a UK compliant SPD on order for our exploration. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

With Meanwell being one of the biggest players in the professional power supply industry, I had high expectations of this surge protection unit designed for use with LED drivers in outdoor signage, but also very suitable for many applications where you want to protect expensive electronic circuitry against rogue voltage transients caused by lightning strikes or electrical supply incidents. The quality of this unit was an absolute treat. Robustly made with no PCB tracks or solder joints to fail. Instead the unit is composed of a housing for three separate thermally protected MOV modules, and the stout wires have been bent and soldered directly to the heavy duty incoming wires. The unit has been soldered in situ and then filled with coarse white quartz-like sand and then a layer of resin added to reduce the risk of water ingress. Fault indication is in the form of two traditional gallium phosphide green LEDs that will indicate when a thermal fuse has tripped. The thermal fuses are triggered when the MOVs (Metal Oxide Varistors) reach the end of their useful life and start passing enough current to get hot. These modules are so rugged and affordable that they would be a good addition to protect HVAC, computer and industrial control systems. In some instances it could be useful as a whole-home protective device. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I think I'll have to assume that pork cartilage is a common part of Chinese cuisine, but it didn't feel good to eat. it was a soft bone-like gelatinous stuff. This was a self heating meal that uses a pouch of metals and salts that react to create the effect of a short circuited battery, and in doing so generate lots of heat. Enough to create a very fierce jet of steam out of the top of the pack. Other than the squirmy cartilage bit, the rest of the meal, including the meaty pork bits was very enjoyable. I ate the whole thing after removing the grisly cartilage bits. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is one of many similar products that cashed in on the pandemic by offering products that would sterilise phones and other objects with UVC energy. To be fair, this one has a better design, since it allows for greater distance between the UVC LEDs and the object, and it actually drives the LEDs at a fairly significant current. It could actually find use as a lab sterilising device, although the LEDs can't yet compete with traditional mercury vapour UVC sources. The circuitry in this unit is surprisingly complex. It has the signs of being a "proper" design without the usual penny pinching shortcuts found in similar products. The thermal sensing in the lithium cell is a nice touch, but can't really protect against charging at very low temperatures. It seems mainly to protect against cell overheating. The way the voltage booster is controlled by software is odd, but presumably more versatile. It appears to be using a fixed voltage and a low value resistor in series with the LEDs to set the current. One good thing about the pandemic and the flurry of dubious sterilising products is that the development of UVC sterilising LEDs has been moved forward significantly by creating a huge market for them. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Now I'm back in Glasgow we can have a meetup for coffee, beer and food at The Counting House on George Square in Glasgow. Please don't travel long distances to attend this meetup, and please don't bring large technical gifts. This is a midweek meet in the evening due to the popularity of most venues in Glasgow city centre, which makes weekend meetups tricky. I'm not sure where I'll be in the venue, since it is very big and has an outdoor section too. Look for the big guy with a long brown beard, glasses, a gold-hoop hearing and MASSIVE feet. You can also see what I look like by checking out the BigCliveLive channel:- https://www.youtube.com/@BigCliveLive/streams

The wireless version of the audience interaction LED wristband, given to me by Vince the crew chief for our exploration. These units are issued to the audience of large concerts, and will light up in colours as part of the show. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

It's a long time since the first (expensive) Luminara style dancing-flame candles first appeared, apparently based on the patented candle effect used in the Disney haunted mansion attraction. Then the Chinese started copying them en-masse as happens, and the price came down to a more realistic level. This unit is the cheapest I've seen, and worth getting purely for the module or for hacking with a more suitable LED colour. The Chinese manufacturers just don't seem to understand that a candle should have a golden white colour resembling an actual flame. They either fit cold-white LEDs or the classic lurid sodium yellow LEDs that used to be the closest colour before white LEDs had been invented. In this unit they have used a phosphor based LED, but bizarrely, they've used lurid sodium yellow again when it would probably have been easier to source modern warm white ones. The circuitry is very minimalist. Basically the LED slapped right across the button cells (which is NOT a good idea) and the classic black blob of resin covering an IC directly bonded to the PCB. That COB chip pulses a 370 ohm coil at about 8mA on a regular cycle to deflect the plastic flame's magnet. It's a very convincing effect when set up correctly and viewed from a distance. This unit came from a shop called Hardy's Hardware on Cathcart Road in Glasgow (Scotland). There was a single tray of them at the back of the shop. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Whenever I take things like this to bits I just kinda expect to see this old Motorola chip inside. It's only now that I've realised that it's as iconic as the classic 555. With the same modular style that allowed it to be used in many different applications. Dating back to 1983 it has a 40 year history at the time of making this video. It's odd to see a chip with a Motorola number being made by companies like ON and Texas Instruments. There are many new and very minimalist dedicated switching chips available, but this one still seems to be in demand. It's also notable that if you need to source a replacement chip for another product, you may find it easier to just buy an in-car 12v to USB converter for its chip. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Since the Xyloband was used on Coldplay concerts in 2012, the use of interactive audience illumination gadgets has become common in the entertainment industry. Update. I tried a set of new AAA cells in the unit, hoping for a self test sequence, but it stayed unlit. It needs to see the correct IR codes to operate. This unit is a Pixmob band that can be given a specific identification code and is controlled by high power infrared floodlights in the lighting rig that transmit control data when triggered by the lighting desk. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The things we do backstage... This self heating meal bought by Vince the crew-chief was very out of date, largely because of the bad timing of the pandemic. The brown oily stuff was probably seasoned peppers, since it was very "spicy". If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

They seem to be dumping these things on eBay at the moment. I wonder if that's due to poor sales or technical issues. During the exploration of the product I found two issues that were not microcontroller friendly. One was a lack of power supply filtering (it literally just needed another resistor and capacitor) and the sharing of a track between a high current switching circuit and the power pin of the microcontroller. Both pose a slight risk of causing processor instability, with the risk of a drive transistor being left powered in the event of a crash. Much of the negative feedback suggested that the users may not have fully understood how to use the units, not helped by the instructions being in French, but with a reasonable image guide too. The circuitry consists of a microcontroller controlling two transistors that push and pull the primary of a small step-up transformer. The output then drives a very neatly designed piezoelectric atomiser with a novel self levelling support system. In use, the unit squirts out two fine jets of oil every 10, 30 or 60 seconds, depending on the setting. The use of atomised essential oil for air sterilisation seems to be a common French thing. I bought an air powered oil nebulizer from a pharmacy while working near Paris. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Yet another grey import shipped with an unsuitable power supply, made somewhat worse by the conductive metal parts and target market of children. I'd like to thank Ray for sending this ornament. He'd received it as a gift, but didn't enjoy the experience of getting shocks from it. The leakage current was low, but still enough to give a very strong zap. Especially when handled while your body was referenced to earth/ground. The non-polarised LED blocks have simple but clever circuitry, and an equally clever connection system to allow very fast manufacture. If you have one of these with the non-compliant power supply, I recommend splicing on a chopped USB cable and only using it with a good quality branded power supply from a known source. (Like IKEA, ASDA, Walmart and other retailers that need to protect their reputation.) If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

While I can appreciate the desire of the manufacturer of this style of bulb to make production cheaper, I think they may have gone too far. The usual spring contact inserts that connect to the smoothing capacitor and the incoming supply have been replaced with direct solder connections that are disturbingly close to the aluminium substrate of the panel. Add a good splash of glue that has completely obscured one of the LEDs and you have a low class bulb that has a high risk of failing with a bang due to poor electrical separation and heat. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Having accidentally ended up with a (paid for!) bottle locked shut with one of these security caps, it suddenly became a challenge to open it. The functionality is very good, and no amount of twisting and pulling was able to remove the cap - in fact it just locked on tighter! So without a suitably powerful magnet to release the latch I improvised by cracking the lock cap off with a thin screwdriver. Obviously I then had to investigate the mechanism to see how it worked. Given the difficulty that LIDL staff often have with removing these caps from bought bottles, it might be worth them trying a different approach. Place the bottle into the unlocking station and then twist the cap in the locking direction slightly to allow the ratchet to disengage easily. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The circuitry in this light is quite pleasing in the way the solar panel has been potted onto the main PCB. The colour changing version does have an oddity though. It defaults to the colour changing effect every time it senses dusk, and the only way to lock a colour is to open it up every evening to press the button on the PCB to stop the colour chase. It would have been nice if it had stored that setting. In this video I show the two versions of the light - fixed warm white and RGB in a single schematic. The construction of the light is quite nice, with a big globe that doesn't block too much of the light. There's also the option to add waterproofing to the circuit board and battery contacts to make the light last a lot longer. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Since I recently looked at a fairly complex two transistor self starting solar pendulum circuit, I thought I'd also take a look at a classic simple pendulum circuit as found in many ornamental clocks. This circuit uses a single transistor, but requires a centre tapped coil for the pulse and sensing functions. I went through a spell where I built a lot of magnetic pendulum circuits. It's very gratifying to create a lot of continuous and very visual motion with virtually no current draw. Ideal as a silent battery powered ornament that runs 24/7. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I made this video in two parts while travelling, but now wish I had the other parts or some suitable test equipment to test my theory that it might have a design defect that could overcharge the lithium cell if the light is left in sunshine while switched off. Update - I've run some tests and the unit does seem to lose control of the charge when the switch is off. Fortunately in most situations the light will be left switched on continuously after purchase, and will therefore have the charge control circuitry active. The use of a processor controlled transistor for charge control is very similar to the circuitry of the skeleton shaver I reverse engineered a while ago. It makes me wonder if the chip is a microcontroller with a built in dedicated lithium charge system or if it's just relying on software and an analogue to Digital converter to measure the cell voltage. My pondering about whether the chip could somehow use a single pin to measure cell voltage as well as control the transistor is possibly viable if the cell voltage and transistor base voltage were added. Technically speaking the chip could contain a simple zener or fixed voltage reference so the transistor turned off as the cell voltage reached a charged state. Theoretically the base bias resistor is also going to have a hard time on a sunny day when the base is shunted, as the power dissipation would be just above its rating and the processor would also be shunting about 50mA on its control pin. They may be over-economising on these designs. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Although I've featured the 5V version of these before I have avoided the 12V version because I thought they might just be the same as the 5V version with a higher value resistor. But they're not. They use special higher voltage LEDs so the current per pixel is much lower than the 5V version for a given number of pixels. I took one apart to explore and took a look at the LED arrangement inside one of the LEDs. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

While attempting to clean this vintage solar flapping leaf ornament I found that the plastic had degraded to the point where one of the leaves broke off unexpectedly. This turned out to be a good thing, as I did a full reverse engineer of the circuitry and being older than the mass produced variants it is made with discrete components as opposed to the modern "blob" chips. The circuitry is based on a two transistor stage that will self trigger at a threshold as the solar panel charges a capacitor, but can also be pre-triggered before that threshold by the current induced in the pulse coil. This arrangement lets it self-start, and then pulse the magnetic pendulum as it passes over the coil to keep it swinging at its resonant frequency. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I bought this amplifier purely so we could open it and take a look inside. It's a modern class-D amplifier that uses pulse width modulation and filtering to achieve high power audio amplification efficiently with low heat and size. One slight correction. The incoming supply comes in via an NTC inrush current limiter which I inadvertently called a MOV (Metal Oxide Varistor). Initially I thought it might have a dedicated chip or module for the amplification, but it seems to use discrete transistors on the output with a couple of mystery chips. The power supply is notable for using a discharge lamp ballast control chip, presumably because it is a dual rail power supply with the zero volt output referenced to mains ground, and the two-MOSFET push-pull drive circuit makes it better suited to that. The way the four output transistors are pinned down onto the aluminium backplate is quite interesting. The areas of most concern for reliability are the ribbon cables and the solder joints on the speaker pillar terminals I'd rather the power had been linked across with a beefier dedicated wiring loom and auxiliary low current control cable. The IDC (Insulation Displacement Connectors) used with ribbon cable are alway problematic with high current. The unit has three operational modes:- Stereo - independent left and right channels. Parallel - One input fed to both channels (mono) Bridged - One input fed to both channels in antiphase to drive one speaker at higher power. The stereo and parallel modes have one speaker connection connected to zero volt/chassis level and the other connection is pulled between the positive and negative rails by two transistors. In the bridged mode both ends of the speaker can be driven to either supply rail by a full H-bridge transistor arrangement. The "ground lift" option just isolates the incoming signal cable's screen from the chassis. Do not ever disconnect the mains earth/ground. There's a rather unpleasant culture within the audio industry to "avoid ground problems" by cutting the earth/ground wires in the mains plugs of equipment. That is absolutely the WRONG thing to do, but is perpetuated by the vague word-of-mouth training prevalent in showbiz. Removing the safety earth/ground means that in the event of a fault full mains voltage can be present on audio cables, resulting in a serious shock risk and equipment damage. Professional audio equipment uses a balanced pair of audio signal wires which are twisted along their length to ensure that any external electrical noise influence is coupled onto both, cancelling it out. The audio signal is purely derived from the difference between those two wires and not with reference to ground. To reduce ground-borne electrical noise between equipment, the cable screen may be "lifted" at one end. On large scale shows the audio is often buffered locally and may be sent to the desk via a fiber optic link. This amplifier was bought from CPC in the UK. https://cpc.farnell.com/pulse/pla2180d/19-1u-amplifier-class-d-2x-180w/dp/DP36607 Note that I've not tested the audio performance of this amplifier. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Well this was foolish, but I have no regrets. The sodastream machine did need a very thorough internal cleaning afterwards. To carbonate the Marmite I dissolved a large spoonful in hot water and then chilled it to make it more receptive to carbonation. It took a lot of carbon dioxide, but didn't seem keep to hold onto it, so releasing the pressure was time consuming and messy. But the results? Not gonna lie - I'd drink it again.... If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I had another go at getting this thing to communicate with various devices and step the voltage up for higher power delivery, but drew a blank. It just didn't happen. It would have been handy to have a USB-C breakout PCB to check voltages, since the middle output didn't seem to activate at all, even for 5V. This is one of many clone power supplies being sold on eBay at a higher price than a safe and compliant charger from somewhere like IKEA. There's absolutely no guarantee of safety with the grey import units. A good USB charger is an essential part of modern digital life, so it pays to get a good one and also a decent cable for your higher power items. These units from unaccountable sellers often pose a high shock and equipment damage risk through cost cutting and bad design. The circuitry is quite intriguing because of the way they have implemented the ability to initially have a standard 5V supply, but then allow two different ICs to negotiate a higher voltage with the connected equipment and then override the preset 5V reference to raise it to the desired level. The two power supply modules are quite unusual for having separate rectifiers and smoothing capacitors on the primary side. They could have used a single rectifier and smoothing capacitor. I wonder if it's to avoid interaction, or just based on a duplicated single power supply design. The use of a TL431 shunt regulator with a near-50/50 divider to hit its threshold of 2.5V with a supply rail of 5V is quite neat. The primary side control chips are almost certainly a clone of another prominent IC like a Viper 22A If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This video was inspired by Paul of Mr Carlson's Lab, and his shock story. You can find his video here:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WNes9blcFGk It's inevitable that when diagnosing faults on equipment that maintenance workers have to work with some systems powered to be able to trace the fault, as turning the power off may make it almost impossible to find the fault. The main rules of live working are to avoid providing a good current path across your body, and to take extreme care where the work area is cramped or wet. In the case of my worst shock the scenario was completely unexpected, and involved metalwork that should have been earthed/grounded - suddenly becoming live when it was moved. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This pound shop (dollar store) light from One Beyond in the UK caught my attention because it seemed to be styled on the classic fence mounting solar lights, but was priced more as a typical garden stake-light. It turns out it's a hybrid of the two with a decent solar panel and NiMH cell, but with classic minimalist solar garden light circuitry. With the usual upgrades (Bypass the switch, lacquer the PCBs and grease the battery terminals) it could last a long time. The intensity vs run-time can also be tuned to your local sunshine levels by swapping the inductor. It represents pretty good value as a project light. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I saw this COB based led keychain light and wondered if it had a donut shaped COB that could be used as a ring light for a miniature camera. The answer is yes and no. It COULD be adapted with a bit of effort, but is not totally suited to the application. The modification would require removing the button and drilling a hole in its place, then bypassing the control circuitry. It's a neat enough little light. I've seen the clever spring loaded clasp mechanism before. It's very simple and makes me wonder who came up with the original concept of differing leg lengths to give an inherent self-closing effect. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is a pair of rigger boots. Classic construction site footwear in the UK. I've had these in a cupboard for a long time and recently rediscovered them. But the soles of the boots have degraded in some way. They have gone sticky and crumbly. I'll guess that they're made of some sort of polymer designed to emulate rubber, that has degraded with time. There was no ozone generator being used in that room, so I think the main culprit is time and an unstable chemistry. It reminds me of those products with a rubber-feel textured plastic case. After a few years they often break down into a sticky mess too. These days I tend to wear composite toe cap safety trainers (Uvex) instead of the big boots. Much lighter and more comfortable. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This unit uses the variable ionisation of the air to detect specific refrigeration gasses. It uses fairly complex linear circuitry to create a two speed pulsed tone that can be tuned to increase and decrease sensitivity as needed. This unit is only intended for specific refrigerants like CFCs and HFCs. For other gases a more sophisticated sensor like a heated diode sensor may be required. This application is where a microcontroller could have been used to provide a much more useful rising and falling tone or click speed with minimal component count. Literally just a classic 8 pin MCU. The channel I mentioned - HVACR videos is here:- https://www.youtube.com/@HVACRVIDEOS Chris videos service calls and gives a lot of detail while he's working. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I can't put a date to this. It could be from the very end of the Victorian era, but I'm not sure the exact timeframe. The fabric coated rubber flex didn't seem quite right for the era, but on further inspection it appears the scary rubber tape mess inside the handle is a twisted joint between what is probably a new flex and the old stubs of an original cable. I've since found a General Electric version which looks extremely similar, but isn't quite identical. The vibratory massage units were one of the first electrical appliances to be invented. They were obviously for health reasons only, but that was probably just a respectable cover for their real use as pleasure devices - and not just for the ladies! In the mid 1920's they suddenly fell from grace when they appeared in "naughty" films and their true purpose was revealed. But then returned with a bang in the 60's with no effort to hide their actual purpose. Now that "that" industry is currently worth around $35 billion a year and surprisingly ladies purchase just over half the toys sold.... If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A very basic unit with minimal electronics and a simple three position switch. Off, Low and High. I was hoping this unit would contain an ioniser module, and it turns out to have a proper bipolar ioniser module in it, with both positive and negative ion emitters in a very basic configuration. Ionisers like this emulate a natural outdoor process where environmental factors like wind, rain and sunshine cause electrostatic effects that disassociate air molecules, causing them to form into short-lived molecules that seek stability again by interacting with airborne contaminants. The concept is that indoor air quickly loses those natural active elements, so they are replaced by units like this using electrostatic effects. This is a very controversial area of science with some very bold profit-motivated marketing campaigns and commercially biased "research" swamping out the poorly-funded independent scientific research. The unit has a simple two speed shaded pole fan motor and very little else other than the usual pleated paper filter with a layer of activated carbon mesh. The simplicity and lack of fancy controls means this type of unit should be fairly reliable. It's possible that the filter is a standard size as used in some vehicles as a cabin filter. The dimensions are 20mm thick and 154mm by 180mm. A quick search on eBay at the time of making this video shows this small and basic filter being sold at a staggering cost of £35 plus shipping. That is over three times the price I was expecting, and similar to the cost of the entire unit. It's reminiscent of the printer industry and its astronomically expensive ink refills. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is an early NCV (Non Contact Voltage) detector that uses a ceramic PCB with printed resistors. I wonder if they used a ceramic substrate to give high stability at the very low currents involved in sensing electric fields. The quality of the construction was also the downfall of the early units, since they used a rugged metal body. That feature was pounced on by the department of highly improbable electrical accidents, as posing a risk to unskilled labour who might shove it in amongst random live metalwork. The principle of these things is that a capacitively coupled field is amplified and then used to drive an LED. In this particular unit there is a six-gate schottky inverter used to filter AC (already done by the detection method) and then drive a charge pump to get a decisive LED indication of a valid detection. I get the feeling that the person who designed this went by the book and built it out of standard logical sections, but in doing so may have overengineered the design slightly. I also looked at a much simpler version which uses one resistor, three cheap transistors and an LED to achieve the same effect. The cheaper version is the most common these days, but it's worth noting that some other clone units have clearly been "inspired" by the circuitry of the original design. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is quite a neat little light once you get used to its quirks. That and the undocumented dusk sensor that makes it behave oddly until you realise that you have to set it up in a dark room! Here's a summary of the operation:- Single click increments through individual colours. The light will fade out and then back in with the new colour. Red, yellow, soft green, hard green, cyan, blue, magenta, ice-white and colour ramp cycle. Double click enters intensity mode which ramps the intensity up and down. Another double click locks that intensity. Quite tricky to do! A long press turns the unit on or off. Note that the unit can sense its own light in a medium brightness room, or while you are holding it. That can result in rogue ramping up and down as it repeatedly turns itself on and off, fading in and out as it does so. It may also do it briefly as it approaches dusk or dawn and the ambient light level is on the edge of turning it on and off. Once you have worked out the quirks it's quite a neat little light for adding a splash of colour to your room with a spare USB power supply. An eBay search for LED car mood light should find these in amongst fixed colour versions. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The classic neon test screwdriver has been around for a long time. It relies on the sensitivity of a small neon indicator bulb in series with a safety resistor to give a slight glow when touched to live electrical connections by finding a return current path through the user. It has a few weaknesses. It's very dim to start with, but even dimmer when the user is well insulated from ground, some have inadequate safety resistors, and it's a very vague test that is not always reliable. With the sensitivity of modern LEDs I thought it might be worth testing to see if they could be substituted in place of the original neon indicator to provide a brighter indication. Note that this experiment involves direct electrical contact with mains referenced circuitry. It is imperative that the resistor is chosen with safety in mind, and that the internal wiring can't short out the safety resistor accidentally. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

My bassy voice didn't do this button justice. With a higher pitched voice it's a bit louder, due to the limited frequency spectrum needed to smash 30 seconds of audio into memory. This video was inspired by Julian Ilett video where he showed some technical goodies he'd ordered online. You can get these buttons in a variety of colours from AliExpress. They use two AAA cells for power and you can use a built in microphone to record an audio sample of up to thirty seconds, which is then replayed each time you press the button. The dinky 8 ohm speaker does limit the volume a bit, and there is a distinct hiss over the audio, which may originate from either the microphone or the chip itself. I drew a blank on the chip when I tried a Google search. I wonder if it's similar to the ISD (Information Storage Devices) ICs that used analogue memory to store sound. Technically speaking you could just use this as a big button by cutting a track and soldering two wires to the main button switch. Here's a typical AliExpress listing. The price should be around 4-5£ inclusive of shipping. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A look at a surprisingly sophisticated air freshener that emits tiny puffs of aromatic oil to mask smells or add an aroma to your environment. This unit is notable for using a single AA cell to power a tiny ultrasonic disk that pulses every 8 seconds to atomise oil that is supplied via a wick. It does this 24/7, but still gives very good battery life. The blob IC seems to be an ASIC (Application Specific Integrated Circuit that may have three separate RC oscillators for programmable timing, plus some logic for allowing time delays to be set. There's a MOSFET and transformer based piezo drive circuit for boosting the voltage up, but also a separate trickle charged reservoir capacitor to allow high current pulses without affecting the rest of the circuitry or risking component damage if the circuit latches up. Interestingly, I did manage to latch it up with the MOSFET jammed on during power cycling. Normally the circuit just draws a few milliamps to recharge after each pulse, but when locked up it drew about 16mA. Maybe that's why the product was discontinued. That and the relatively high manufacturing cost versus simpler mains powered aroma units. Some experiments with supply voltage showed the unit was more likely to latch up when initially powered with a lower voltage, but once it's running the unit will keep working until the AA cell gets down to less than 0.6V. Subsequent tests hint that the two separate resistors may set the time-base and the aroma burst duration, with the chain of four resistors probably allowing fine tuning of the piezo drive frequency. The three capacitors will probably be the matching ones for each of those three timing circuits. If that is the case then it possibly makes this circuit hackable for driving alternative atomiser disks. It's interesting to note that there does seem to be a collectors market for air freshener units, in the same way people collect lights, fans, vacuums and many other electrical items. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random air fresheners for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This started as a very ordinary fault with an easy fix, but then I discovered that a section of the circuitry was getting extremely hot and had to explore further. It turns out that a classic fault was causing a weird knock-on effect that was so unusual that I felt the need to reverse engineer that section to see why it was happening. The main culprit was a classic bulging capacitor, but it's much less common to find that fault in equipment with traditional low frequency power supplies. It's much more common with modern high frequency supplies. The use of the Glan branded capacitor may be the issue here. The circuitry shouldn't really be stressing it with a guesstimated current demand of around 300mA with active relays. The unit has the facility to connect a remote display and button interface with just two wires, and it appears to achieve that by using a current regulated supply to that module, and communicating in both directions by shunting its power wires in pulses. The main capacitor failure caused an unexpected situation where the processor was unable to initialise, and by default the display output data shunt is active, meaning that the current regulation circuit was dissipating high power in its main transistor continuously. As the capacitor progressively failed the unit would potentially have started glitching and resetting intermittently, getting progressively worse until it just didn't start up. One huge advantage of doing an on-site repair on these units would be that it keeps their existing settings intact, which saves reprogramming the unit for a specific system from scratch. That can be a real time saver if you have to work out what everything is doing and how it's connected. Without a working reference unit for voltage measurements, and perhaps a remote display module too, it's hard to say if other damage has occurred. But the configuration of the circuitry and now cool transistor suggests that the fault is fixed and these units have been saved from becoming expensive landfill. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I saw a dog chasing geese in a local river and was surprised when the goose appeared to play dead to escape the dogs attention. I didn't realise geese did that. You can hear the dog's owner shouting in the background while her pooch completely ignores her because it's busy having fun in the river.

It's pink, it's rubber, it's a kettle - it's a pink rubber kettle. I think the point of this is that it is rugged while also being easy to fold down for storage and travel. It's not a fast kettle at just 600W (I measured 700W on the local 245V supply) but for a single cup of coffee it could be acceptable. They are apparently available in 120V or 220V versions. The cable is copper coated aluminium, and the one shipped is not polarised and has no earth/ground wire. That's unfortunate, since the kettle does have an exposed metal ring around it, and a common failure mode with heating elements is to leak current to the casing. There is an earth wire internally, so with a proper IEC style lead it should be grounded. The temperature control is by a thermal switch on the heater plate, but there is no auxiliary thermal fuse to protect against its failure. Many certified devices like this have the extra thermal fuse in the opposing lead for double protection against a fault in the element causing current flow to ground causing uncontrolled heating. The thermal switch did cut off the heater just as the water started boiling. It cuts in and out as needed, so make sure you switch off (and preferably unplug) the unit if leaving it unattended. The black inserts around the screws are high temperature plastic to offer some protection against the plastic base melting. The heater block is welded onto what appears to be a thin stainless steel dish that is folded in at the sides to grip the silicone rubber flask tightly. While I don't generally recommend grey import products for safety reasons, this unit seems fairly serviceable for use by suitably intelligent people. The fact it cycles the heating on and off as needed does suggest it could have uses for heating other liquids for technical purposes (wax maybe?). The thermal switch could be swapped for a lower temperature one if required too. The keywords to find this on eBay are "foldable electric kettle". If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This light contained a chip I've not come across before. A super minimalist chip that operates at full mains voltage and replaces a lot of traditional circuitry. Bright Power S4523B. Here's the datasheet (not https). http://www.bpsemi.com/upload/cn/file/2023-01/col385/1673442622103.pdf The LED driver is also a Bright Power chip with a super low component count. Notably the current sense resistor/s for setting the LED current and the overvoltage setting resistor for limiting the open circuit voltage. Sometimes the current sense resistor hack affects the overvoltage ratio and needs that resistor value tweaked too. Lowering the light power by even just 10% will have a significant effect on the longevity of the LEDs. The circuitry was made somewhat harder to reverse engineer by the fan power supply chip probably being a clone, and with a very hard to find and extremely vague datasheet in Chinese that gave very little actual data on the chip. Reverse engineering was made even harder by a rogue deviation from the vague design examples. The fan runs at 9.5V and 330mA. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is NOT the product I was expecting. The functionality is probably the same, but the circuitry is very different, and it seems ridiculous that a microcontroller could be used in this application. Especially when you see how they detect the voltage thresholds. I get the impression from the ludicrous 100Mohm resistor that the circuit is just using a simple threshold system where an internal weak pull-up is used on a digital input so that a test voltage of two distinct thresholds will be detected for continuity and high voltage. It's quite odd that one LED goes to positive and one to negative. But there are lots of oddities about the design, which could easily have been implemented on a single sided PCB. Quiescent current is spectacularly low, so the cell stack should last a reasonable amount of time. Although the standby current of 7uA drops to near zero after about 9 seconds when the chip goes to sleep, it was notable that a noisy electrical load in the vicinity kept it awake and drawing about 20uA. The microcontroller seems to waken and check the inputs briefly in standby, as tapping the end of the driver is not initially detected until it coincides with a wake-up and the microcontroller goes into sense mode. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

It's a while since I've partaken of wine while making a video, and it definitely adds "something" to the mix. I got this fan purely to analyse the humidity monitoring circuitry. These units are built to a price, and that means that they have to use the cheapest humidity sensor possible, which introduces significant design complexities. This bare HR2902L style humidity sensor uses a conductive membrane that changes resistance with ambient humidity levels. But you can't just measure it as a simple resistor. To avoid electrolytic effects and the risk of changing the characteristics of the sensing layer, it has to be read with AC current with an equal current flow of either polarity. The same technique is also used to avoid electrode corrosion with water purity analysers. The timing function is much simpler. Just reading a voltage between zero and 5V and then converting that to a scaled value for a counter. This fan was advertised as having an anti-backdraught shutter. I was hoping for a wax-motor actuated louvre system, but in reality it's a very cheap and nasty floppy plastic flap that will work, but will potentially make flappy noises on a windy day. The fan also has its own short video due to an oddity that occured while I was experimenting with taming its speed down with a series capacitor. I stepped the capacitor value up progressively and suddenly at 1uF the fan went into turbo mode, and the voltage across it exceeded the mains supply significantly. I reckon I hit a magic ratio between the motor inductance and capacitance that caused an unusual phase addition issue. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Thanks go to Lukas for sending this faulty ignitor for our exploration. Having pondered the complexities of this circuit a bit more, the size of the main resistor and snubbing network may be to do with clamping the high voltage spike that the module creates on the ballast without attenuating it too much. Quite a complex thing to design around. Alternatives to this ignitor are:- A module that goes inline after a two wire ballast and superimposes a high voltage pulse. A simple shunt system that briefly shunts the output of the ballast to cause a high voltage spike. A resistor and extra ignition electrode built into the lamp itself. I'll see if I can find other versions, but many of them are potted. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I was disassembling a fan to reverse engineer its electronic humidity control and experimentally put some capacitors in series with the fan to slow it down. No series cap 242V 14.5W 90mA (0.66PF) 220nF the fan struggled to turn - 95V 1.5W 22mA (0.27PF) 470nF the fan ran at about 1/3rd the power - 157V 5.5W 51mA (0.43PF) 1uF the fan ran at SUPER TURBO POWER! - 300V! 24W 120mA (0.8PF) I'm guessing I may have hit a perfect inductor/capacitor combo to result in such a dramatic result by somehow creating a phase shift that added to the supply voltage. It's not something I've come across before, and makes me realise that in the wrong situation this could cause weird problems with equipment. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I opened this unit expecting it to be well built, and it didn't disappoint. It even threw in a few surprises. This is IKEA's smallest USB power supply intended for continuous use to power accessories like lights or ornaments. It only delivers 5V at 1A, so is less suited to high demand items like smartphones and tablets. But it will happily charge and power smaller items. I've always recommended the use of good quality branded USB power supplies for safety reasons. I regard IKEA power supplies as some of the most robust and safest units available. And they're NOT expensive compared to the fashion brands. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is pleasingly freaky. It's a 100 year old piece of electro-medical apparatus that probably predates most electrical appliances. This thing is NOT child safe (or even adult safe). It has exposed electrical contacts that can deliver a significant electric shock. That's just how they did stuff in that early electrical era. It needed a few broken solder joints resoldered and an improvised replacement for the old capacitor, but still works. The circuitry is very typical of that era, with a coil and magnetically activated circuit interrupter causing pulses of current through a step up transformer. It's very similar to a violet ray or violet wand unit. The high voltage is used to create ozone by applying it across two pieces of metal mesh on either side of a tubular glass insulator. The resultant capacitively coupled charge causes a corona discharge as it breaks the air molecules apart. In the process of recombining they create ozone and many other exotic air molecules that have a sterilizing and deodorising effect as they revert back to more stable molecules. Ozone is an essential part of natural outdoor air at very low levels to maintain a level of sterility. It is useful to generate similarly low levels indoors, but this unit produces higher levels that are not recommended for continuous inhalation. A rough rule of thumb is that if you can smell ozone there's too much. Modern low level air cleaning units tend to use a very high airflow to mix the active air molecules into the room. I was expecting the power consumption to be quite high, but it's actually around 5W and produces a reasonable amount of ozone. I'm not sure how long it is intended to be run for continuously, with it's continually vibrating and sparking electrical contact. The name written on the bottom of the unit looks like A-Massey or Massoy written with a stylish flourish. It could be the name of the builder or the customer it was being made for. If you like high voltage stuff then you may find it interesting that Jeff Behary of The Electrotherapy Museum fame is currently trying to rehome the GE 3 million volt lightning lab (He's already got the parts from it). If you can spare a few dollars He would appreciate the support:- https://www.gofundme.com/f/Saving-GE-Lightning-Laboratory If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This video was supposed to be about one version of the bulb/lamp, but it turned out that the box had two different bulbs in it, so it became a double teardown. One oddity is that the resistor I thought was 510K is actually 5.1 Megohm, which is an unusually high value. IKEA seem to have stuck with buck regulators for their bulbs which is strange in this era of cheap linear regulators. I'm not sure if there's a significant efficiency advantage of using a buck vs linear regulator. But it may keep some of the heat away from the LED panel. I think I prefer the simplicity of modern linear regulators with their single smoothing capacitor and no high frequency noise. As with most IKEA products I'd guess they are designed with a bias to lasting longer than products from other brands. The 6 pin buck regulator with built in rectifier is new to me. It makes sense, and also benefits from a wider pin spacing for better electrical separation. The higher power lamp is the only one that is easy to hack for a lower output and massively longer life. The hack would involve removing one of the very low value sense resistors. I removed the 8.2 ohm resistor and the power dropped from 6W to 2.3W. Removing the 12 ohm resistor instead would give closer to 3.5W. If attempting to open lamps in the way I did in this video, be aware that there are still glass ones in use, so take care to make sure the cover is soft plastic before attempting to squeeze it to release the adhesive. Also be aware that once the cover is removed it exposes live connections on the PCB when powered. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I'm not sure how much more streamlining they can do to a WiFi lamp that offers tunable white and RGB colour mixing options. It's basically a power supply, Wifi module and then a rather spectacular I2C serially controlled five channel linear regulator. As with all products like this, running them at a lower power setting will result in much less heat and significantly longer operational life. The biggest factors in lifespan will be LED reliability and heat related aging of the electrolytic capacitors. It's probably worth mentioning that the linear regulators used in these lighting products probably have other applications too. They are designed to operate over a wide voltage range, so should be suitable for low voltage projects as well as mains voltage use. Although branded Eveready there was an Energizer sticker on the WiFi module. I'd guess this is a product from one of those companies that buys up dead brands for their status. The Bright Power buck regulator is quite neat too. It's a very standard approach to providing a low voltage supply, and there seem to be different versions for different voltage ranges, with each chip having two voltage options that can then be cheated higher with a zener diode in the feedback path. Not sure the purpose of the mystery capacitor. I'd guess it's a low value and intended to remove a bit of switching noise from the buck regulator. Given the functionality of the light the circuitry is surprisingly uncluttered and minimalist. That's entirely down to the very modular approach. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is a fairly common item on eBay. The fact it's on eBay does mean it may be a dumpster product, but it's a good indication of what is available from better quality sources. The electrical spec for this seems a bit zealous, especially when you see what's inside it. I think I'll give passing mains through this a miss. Even the 2A contact rating seems a bit generous. But the construction actually turned out to be surprisingly good. Not just with two bearings, but a very clean construction with the rings also acting as guides for the sliding contacts. For beefier applications AliExpress has some very rugged looking slip ring assemblies with carbon brushes and chunky brass rings. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Most of these flame emulating solar lights have used a strip of LEDs to give the flame effect, but this one uses a very distinct cluster of LEDs to emulate the shape of a flame. It's unusual that while they have full control of the 5 LEDs individually, they didn't include any sideways flame movement. The pattern loop is also quite short, suggesting that some extra randomisation could be added. The solar section is fairly typical with a generous 600mAh AAA NiMH cell and surprisingly high output amorphous silicon panel. The current output when held up to a diffused 20W LED bench light was actually quite surprising at 125mA. I tend to associate amorphous (brown glass) panels with low current, but they've obviously been evolving quietly in the background. This light came from Poundstretcher in the UK. I'd guess it will appear in various general homeware stores worldwide. I'm doing a test to see if YouTube is biasing towards promoting video with mid-video advertising. I've shied away from doing it in the past, but now realise that it probably affects the visibility of my videos. Please let me know what level of mid-video advertising you got in the comments area. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Since I've been getting a lot of messages that my videos are not appearing in people's feeds I'm adding some other links to find the upcoming live stream. Here's the direct link:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFO46NajDko

When I saw this I just had to get one for exploration. It's a plastic clam with an illuminated pearl that has glitter swirling inside it. There was quite a range of colours available, so obviously I chose the most lurid one. (It was from a stall in Braehead shopping centre in Scotland.) The most interesting bit of this is the glitter pearl, which appears to be a blow-moulded globe with a magnetically coupled agitator. In the early days of this type of product the motor was just run from one of the colour channels. But in this unit is seems to have its own independent control channel. In traditional thermal convection glitter lamps the balance of the liquid and glitter densities is quite tricky. Especially as it varies with ambient temperature. With an agitator it makes things a lot easier, but does tend to be somewhat less subtle. I did an experiment with a circuit that twitched the motor back and forth, and the result was a much slower flow of glitter up the sides of the globe and downwards in the middle. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This video is very short, but if you follow the links below it has the potential to take you into a very deep Internet rabbit hole. A VAWT (Vertical Axis Wind Turbine) is less efficient than the classic HAWT (Horizontal Axis Wind Turbine) but has a few advantages that make it a very interesting option for experimentation. The main advantages are that it can handle wind from any direction, including turbulent wind, and does not need rotating electrical contacts like the classic wind turbines that have to turn to face the wind. Three of the most notable versions are:- The Savonius, which you may recognise as the whirly things used as van ventilators where internal airflow is needed, and on top of some chimneys to assist in creating an updraught. They are also sometimes used as compact turbines on boats for topping the battery up. The very stylish Darrieus turbine that is more efficient than the original Savonius design. The Revolving Wing turbine which has strong similarities to the Darrieus version. Here's a Wikipedia link to get you started on your journey of discovery:- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vertical-axis_wind_turbine YouTube has a lot of videos about DIY wind power systems, but be cautious of their efficiency claims. People rating the output in voltage as opposed to actual load driving power are the most common bits of bad science. Just because it rotates doesn't mean it generates much power. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

2023 is the year that the fluorescent tube gets banned in Europe, and may be progressively banned in various American states. I found this old sign illumination module and thought it would be worth making a video about it. I could have had a rant about how many LED lights have had efficiency and lifespan specifications that are just utter lies, and how you can't even change a lamp in a modern fixture. But instead I'll just give the proven fluorescent technology the dignity it deserves. The basics of the classic fluorescent tube is that it contains a carrier gas and tiny amount of mercury vapour. The mercury vapour gives off UV that stimulates the internal phosphor coating and converts it to white light. The ends of the tubes have heated cathodes with a thermo-emissive coating that lowers the voltage drop between the electrode and gas when it is heated. Initially it's heated by direct powering of the heaters, but is then maintained in a hot state by the normal tube operation. Some ballast circuits have the power factor correction capacitor in series with the rest of the circuit. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I spotted a video by Franlab about one of these, and it reminded me I have the latest incarnation of these lights that has a more cost-optimised power supply than Fran's unit. I've featured a few different versions of these in previous videos, but this one has a radically different approach to its power circuitry. This unit uses an onboard three terminal 5V buck regulator with a useful cheat to nudge the output voltage higher with a zener in the voltage feedback path. That could allow for this same circuit to be used for many custom voltages. The regulator chip is a KW10L which only seems to bring up sales links on Google. It's almost certain that it's a pin-compatible rip off of a prominent branded version. Other hacks you can do to this light:- Wire the motor across the red LED for slightly lower speed at 2V. Disconnect the motor for a static effect. Replace the LEDs with a colour of your choice, noting that using three gallium nitride colours may need a resistor adjustment. Add your own custom rotating lens plate, noting that the PCB is fully referenced to the mains supply. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This module appears to be used in many vehicles as a luxury feature. I was tempted by the Porsche one, but not at £250! It's basically a bipolar ionizer for cars, with the output scaled down for the smaller space. This used Kia unit cost a tenner on eBay. You can apparently buy them on AliExpress new for a similar amount. In operation, what these units actually do is staggering. Especially given their ultra low power usage (About 1.5W in turbo mode). They apply a high positive and negative voltage between two sharp emitters that results in a huge amount of electrons flowing through the air between them. That results in a tiny corona discharge (purple glow of ionized air) that is literally a molecular lab in a pinhead. It strips apart air molecules into their component atoms and allows them to recombine in the short-lived energised state that occurs in nature to manage air quality. Those active molecules will actively combine with contaminants, viruses and spores, deactivating them in the process. Japan is notable for having air processing like this in almost every home. And it's worth mentioning that any dehumidifier or HEPA air filter unit that has an "ioniser" function includes something similar. (But don't tell the Karen's - because they think everything technical is bad.) This unit is fairly complex and took several hours to reverse engineer with a few sanity breaks. But the circuitry is interesting, so it was worth it. Better still, there's no microcontroller, so it can be hot-wired to operate without a fancy control system. Here are the wiring details:- Thick orange wire - positive 12-15V Thick black wire - negative/chassis Thin red wire with white stripe - enable - connect to positive via a 10K resistor. Thin brown wire - "ion" - connect to positive via a 10K resistor to reduce output. Thin green wire with white stripe - "dig" - operational indicator - can be ignored. You can also buy a bare automotive bipolar ioniser module on AliExpress that uses even less power for a similar effect:- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32914804007.html Or for the full unit search for the keywords "kia ionizer". If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A look at a neat UV curing unit with automatic infrared trigger beam option. The unit claims to be 48W, but it's not. I'm not sure why they rate it at that power - other than for sales to non-technical people. There are 30 UV LEDs of the type used in these resin curing units, with a dusting of phosphor to give a comforting fluorescent style glow. Without the phosphor the unit would look visually dim. A 30 second burst does a good job of hardening standard UV active resin, and the scoop of LEDs provides good angular coverage. The circuitry is very minimalist as is common in mass produced beauty products. They've used some clever tricks to give good functionality, including intensity control, several timing options and an infrared beam for contactless operation. The listing description for this unit was:- LED UV Lamp 48W Manicure Phototherapy Lights Nail Polish Gel Quick Dryer Device No link to the seller because they've just blocked the Isle of Man as a shipping destination. Those keywords will also bring up a wide range of others. I've just ordered a "150W" one. I did some extra tests as follows. Infrared LED current 25mA IR photodiode divider open 0.19V IR photodiode divider blocked 3.7V (so viable as a simple logic input) UV LEDs start to glow at 2.8V and at full current (about 45mA each) are 3.7V If no time setting is selected the infrared beam will trigger the output for up to two minutes before cutting off. The PCB does seem to have locator holes for a missing LED light guide. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Interesting material, but suffers from the curse of these mains voltage LED strips, which is the flicker at 100 or 120Hz. Not visible when looking directly at it, but definitely visible in peripheral vision and on moving objects. One slight error in the video. I said I was testing a metre, but it was a half-metre (20") section that I tested as 8W. So 16W per metre. The dimmer is completely unsuited to sensible control of the LEDs, since they don't light until quite far into the sinewave and then snap on. The snubber network is perplexing. Almost as if they felt they had to use it, but kept increasing the resistor value because it would be making the LEDs glow visibly. 200K is way too high for a snubber. They would have been better just not using it. The use of the COB strip inside with densely packed LEDs gives a very linear glow. A nice use for this strip would be to combine it with a capacitive dropper with smoothing, for a low level flicker-free glow along the full length. For functional illumination I'd tend to recommend using low voltage DC strip for a smooth PWM dimmable illumination. It's more versatile due to being able to be cut in much smaller increments, and the low voltage supply is safer too. The high voltage strip has the advantage of lower current along very long runs, but I'd not want to use the clip-on friction connection for any significant load. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Another eBay delight to explore. It's actually available as a three way and four way version at the same price. The circuitry will be common to both of them though, as the number of cells is irrelevant. The neatest thing about this slightly shady charger is the clever way they have minimised cost and manufacturing time by combining the circuitry and the connector onto one PCB. I'm not sure if this charger classifies as the worst yet, since an earlier version smashed huge amounts of current through its indicator LEDs. But this is a close contender. It's not even worth hacking. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Copying the Chinese for a change. (assuming they didn't copy someone else.) While laminating carbon fibre electrodes onto some experimental membranes, I decided to have a go at making some heater pads based on laminated carbon fibre tissue with copper electrodes. It's a technique I've seen used in many imported low power heating products, and it seems to work pretty well. There's huge scope to customise the shape, area and heat level. I then decided to test one to destruction to see how it fared. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I was expecting this little filament-style LED lamp to use a simple resistor current limiter. But it uses a neat little linear current regulator instead. A perfect video for showing how voltage regulators can also be used to regulate current. The two different styles of filament caught me out. I initially thought it was going to be two identical filaments back to back. The rectifier is a very nice touch. This lamp will work either way round, or even on AC. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Yet another fake power saver plug, but with with an unexpectedly complex twist. I've since scoped the triac gate drive and it is hard driven (not pulses) so the software is probably only using the zero crossing detection to ensure the triac only turns on at the zero crossing point to avoid a huge current spike through the triac if it turned the capacitor on at the peak of the sinewave. By default the triac will turn off at the zero crossing point itself when the on/off button is used. But when directly unplugged while active the capacitor will be left in a random state of charge as demonstrated by my fingers. That's where the discharge resistors could have helped avoid a zap and also avoided a triac current spike when turned on again. It's bizarre that so much effort has gone into the circuitry design when they could just have had the capacitor connected between live and neutral (with a discharge resistor) and just put on a lightshow when the button was pressed. It's professional fakery where the circuit does make sense even if it is just a scam product. Possibly just to make it look more convincing. But why would they even have an on and off button on a power saver anyway. It's worth mentioning that the vague 10kW rating is just fluff to indicate the household load which it could correct if it was a real thing. The unit does not actually pass actual load current. Note that while active, the unit presents an apparent power of 40VA which will increase your electricity bill significantly over a year if you are charged for apparent power. It would effectively cost 1 unit per day on 230V, so over a year that would be about 365 units, which at local costing would be about £80 a year. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I bought one of these a VERY long time ago, but recently saw a used one on eBay and bought it so we could explore it further. They still sell these on eBay, but they command a high price due to seemingly being obsolete stock. The unit is powered by a single 1.5V D-cell, which makes me think the control chip is a dedicated unit for this application. It appears to have a simple RC oscillator and binary counter, with a bit of logic to provide a fixed 1 in 4 fan cycle. Lowering the value of the resistor did result in a change in the cycle speed. There's a possibility that this chip was originally intended for the aroma units in public restrooms, but modern ones vary the fan duration according to the age of the aroma cartridge. (Short bursts initially, getting longer over time as the scent weakens.) Interesting circuitry though. I may refill the scent bottle with a standard heated wick refill to see how well it disperses. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A genuine review of a phone I bought. Not sponsored in any way. This is the Doogee S98 Pro (the Pro version has thermal imaging.) If you have had good or bad experiences with this phone then you can leave a comment below. Having now tested this for a month and a half I regard it as a true engineer's flagship phone. It has functional technical features well suited to the maintenance and engineering industries, of which the most important is the stunning Infiray thermal imaging camera with its 256 by 192 thermal resolution and 25Hz refresh. (Infiray are currently challenging Flir in the thermal imaging market.) For some reason, many of the USA networks do not always support world-standards. To quote from an Amazon listing:- “DOOGEE S98 Pro Does NOT work with AT&T OR Cricket OR CDMA Carriers such as Verizon, Sprint, Boost Mobile, Straight Talk or U.S.Cellular, Xfinity and TracFone! It CAN work with GSM Carriers like T-Mobile,Metro PCS, MVNO and Others!” If you find it's incompatible with your current provider the phone can still be used as a handy workshop tool on WiFi only. I use a couple of phones like that. This phone cost me £300, but popularity and duty charges may increase that. If purchased from Amazon it will probably be more expensive, but will come with some level of purchase security. I got this one from this AliExpress outlet:- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005007646231.html Doogee aren't new to the market. They've been making rugged outdoor phones for ten years. So it does have a pedigree. It certainly seems to be well built. One thing I didn't mention is that I did test the compass/gyro type functionality with SkyMap and it performed well. It's also worth mentioning that it doesn't have a 3.5mm headphone jack, but that's common with rugged phones for waterproofing reasons. This phone is supposed to be submersible in water, but I didn't tempt fate by testing that. Suffice to say I wouldn't worry about using it in the rain. Because of its chunkiness it's definitely best suited to cargo or chest pockets on overalls, or a suitable belt holster. It may not be suitable for fashionistas with skinny jeans. It will be interesting to see if there are security updates to this phone on a regular basis. I do recommend plugging your phone in for any updates, and ignore the "may take a few minutes" bit. Just let it do its thing even if it seems to be taking a while. So far I love this phone. It's perfect for work where you can look at electrical equipment and bearings for signs of overheating. It also makes fast work of finding rogue components on PCBs. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This project is definitely only suited to experimenters with suitable mains voltage experience, as it involves high voltages. It's the classic retro spaceship supercomputer effect, but in a convenient light bulb format. Because the flashing LEDs go almost open circuit while unlit, the panel does need one standard LED in each parallel group to clamp the voltage to a safe level for the flashing LED. I used the hard to get 0.5Hz LEDs here, but it will still look good with classic 1Hz ones. Diffused LEDs give the most pleasant appearance. I modified the capacitive dropper drive circuit to run at much lower power to give a more visual effect, since it doesn't need to light a room. You could also use the slow RGB colour changing LEDs, as they seem to work OK in series circuits. The lamp kits are available from AliExpress and sometimes from eBay, either with or without LEDs. They actually work out more expensive than fully built lamps from some sellers. You can get a range of sizes. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The power saver scam has a long history. In the past, travelling salesmen used to give a seemingly plausible demo of the device using a rigged suitcase presentation. Now with the Internet the scam is pushed via social media platforms like Facebook and misdeclared adverts on platforms like YouTube. Some of the sellers use tear-jerking stories of young kids inventing the devices and sharing them with the world to help people, despite being offered millions of dollars by "big oil" to suppress it. They often use stolen video footage redubbed with the fake story. The sellers often base their payment system in a country with low moral standards and drop-ship the items from China or local warehouses. If you've been duped it is not advised to engage further with them. Look on it as a lesson to be more cynical in future. In reality, if your power company charges you for "apparent power" (a real risk with "smart" meters) just randomly plugging a capacitor into a wall socket could cost you MORE. In a worst case scenario this plug could cost you an extra unit of electricity for every day it's plugged in. Over the 365 days of a year that could be a significant cost. (£80 a year at local rates.) Add the risks associated with the bad electronic design and you also increase the risk of having a house fire by using one of these pointless devices. The only time a capacitor is going to reduce your electricity bill is when you are charged for apparent power (kVA vs kW), it is used with specific types of highly inductive loads, is matched to them and only active when they are. A simple capacitor does not improve the power factor of modern electronic loads. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I got a big floor-standing air filter unit so we could take it apart and see what's inside. These were being sold at a very jacked up price during the pandemic, and then the price crashed when the residual stock had to be cleared. There's a good chance that you'll find these stuffed into cupboards of public spaces, or just thrown out after they have served their purpose of ticking the pandemic air quality box. In some cases the units will have been used without even taking the plastic wrapping off the filter first. (I came across two like that.) The curse of these units is that they are sold in the same way as inkjet printers, where you are tempted by a cheap unit - but then pay the price later with the cost of replacement filters. Or worse still, the seller just stops selling the new filters and you are left with a useless unit. Pink background is a silicone bench mat courtesy of Scott (Defpom's Electronic Repair channel). The function is very simple. Air is pulled in through a multi-layer filter and then blown out the top past the obligatory ioniser. They don't need a circuit board or touch buttons. You could literally have an on/off switch and an optional high/low speed selector switch. Because of the multi-tap motor winding, only one of the speed connections should be powered at any given time. Powering more than one would effectively add a shorted winding section. If hot-wiring the motor the unused taps must be insulated. Motor wiring:- Black - common (I'd expect there to be a thermal fuse on this connection.) Red - high power White - medium power Yellow - low power The buck regulator number is LN8K05 The processor is an SC92F83A2 The triacs are JKT1D8W I'd guess these units are mass produced in China with labelling and pricing to suit the company selling them. The design is very cost optimised, and much more interesting as a result. They've literally squeezed every feature they could out of a cheap processor. The filter construction is unusual. The honeycomb frame with loose carbon granules is quite neat. Note that I flipped the 5V capacitors in the power supply schematic due to the odd topology. The negative side should be at 0V. The bit that goes "PING" took me a moment to get my head around. It's genius. Basically a hardware envelope generator for a bell noise, where the processor just needs to provide a square wave at the desired frequency. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Another instalment in the carbonation series that seems to go either really well or really badly. In this case it didn't go well at all.... I did decide to put a towel down just in case. After it had settled, it was actually OK, and just a bit fizzier. But drinking directly from the bottle just resulted in massive in-mouth foaming and beer spraying out everywhere. Mini supercomputer badge by Mouse:- https://www.etsy.com/shop/Flashything Disney-grade stripey red hat by China - search eBay for "waiters beret". Big blinky supercomputer panel in background PCB files available here:- https://www.bigclive.com/freebies.htm (A4 Gallium zip) Just add lots of 1K resistors and diffused self-flashing LEDs. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Quite a smart little module. It's a surface mount cold cathode driver intended for use with UVC/ozone sterilisation tubes. But it will potentially drive other short neon tubes about 400mm/16" long. The circuitry is very similar to the classic cold cathode drivers intended for providing illumination in PC cases and in some arcade games. But the use of SMD components makes it look quite neat. It can theoretically drive two tubes if you add another capacitor to the output. This matched set of tube and driver came from AliExpress:- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004618501197.html (Or try searching for item 1005004618501197 ) You can buy the bare tubes or the tube and driver together. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Much better than the last similar looking unit, and this one is easily hackable to your chosen current by swapping resistors. In this video I did a simple hack for a 24/7 trickle charge. This unit is worth buying just for the case alone for your own custom charger project. I get the feeling this is another clone of a clone - where a circuit has been modified without fully understanding the purpose of some of the components. In the case of the strange pair of differently sized parallel resistors, I think it may be based loosely on the previous unit which had a similar arrangement. As supplied, the unit works as a very simple charger, but the current is high enough to require that you remember to take the cells out of it after a suitable length of charging time. It's too easy to forget that cells are charging and a prolonged period of high current overcharging can be detrimental to cell lifespan. NiMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) and NiCd (Nickel Cadmium) cells are not like lithium cells, where there is a very decisive end of charge state (usually 4.2V). Instead the smart chargers have to detect a slight change in voltage when a cell is fully charged and bubbles start to form on its electrodes, or they may detect a rise in temperature or stationary voltage. When a NiMH or NiCd cell is fully charged it has a chemical reaction internally that converts the gas bubbles back into liquid, and during this there is heat generated and higher internal pressure. For fixed current charging at higher currents you do have to avoid overcharging as the chemical reaction that recombines gas to liquid is only capable of handling a low level of charge current. At very low trickle charge currents, the cells can be left charging continually without affecting their lifespan too much. However, the trade-off is the time taken to charge the cells. Not an issue if they're just being topped up or being kept on standby. The other advantage of a simple charger like this is that it will handle older cells or ones that have been accidentally over-discharged, where a smart charger will either not recognise their presence, misinterpret them as being non rechargeables and reject them, or terminate the charge far too early. In the case of accidental over-discharging, a seemingly dead cell can be brought back gently in this type of charger before being charged quickly in a smart charger. Because the charger doesn't do any tests it will also work with difficult cells like the low capacity ones used in solar lights. Aside from the hack/mod that I show in the video, you could also just fine tune the current by swapping the 18 ohm resistors for a higher value. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

It seemed like an interesting experiment to do. Bang a 2.5L bottle of 7.5% trash-cider through the water distiller to see what the results tasted like. Long story short. It ain't Smirnoff. It's going in a spray bottle for cleaning use. If you partake of a chilled Frosty Jack's of a weekend, were you aware that a 2.5L bottle contains the equivalent of a pint (470ml) of 40% vodka? If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Sansi is the company that makes the unusual ceramic core LED lamps. Having been quite impressed by their lamps I thought I'd take a look at another of their products. It turns out to be quite nicely designed, with logical circuitry and a very unusual fresnel lens. The PIR sensor is a BS612, which you can buy from Adafruit:- https://www.adafruit.com/product/5578 It's quite a sophisticated module that does most of the work, with very little in the way of external components. The circuit board in this light is quite tricky to get out due to being soldered in place on the battery contacts. It will take a beefy soldering iron to desolder the negative terminal in particular, because it is on a large ground plane on both sides of the PCB that sucks the heat away from the connection. There is scope to replace the existing three AAA cells with a lithium cell if desired. The application might be ideal for one of the many cells found in disposable vapour products often found discarded in the street. Although the unit does not have low voltage cutout, the LEDs will be very dim by the time the voltage reaches the lower level of the lithium cell, and the current will dwindle away to the quiescent current by the point the cell needs recharged. A cell with a connector tagged onto the existing main battery terminals would allow easy swapping. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The Volkslicht was presented as the people's light, where the marketers probably thought that the German people would embrace their new light and buy them en-masse. They didn't buy them en-masse and are now selling off the excess stock. Special thanks to Kai-Steffen for sending me some of these so we could explore them. The light itself is a classic looking 6W warm white lamp with four LED filaments. The design is very typical for smart lights, with a bluetooth or WiFi module controlling the LED current regulator. In this case the device is based on a Bluetooth module and does not need a WiFi connection, although the app does require you to sign up with your email address and a password. In use, you create zones on your phone - like kitchen, lounge, bedroom etc. And then add lights to the desired zone by linking to their Bluetooth connection. During this process the lamps blink to indicate which one is being paired. You can then switch them on and off or control their intensity as desired. The pairing process was actually fairly straightforward compared to some of the earlier products, and the app sent a software update to the lamp when first connected. As with most of these smart lights, the circuitry splits into three distinct sections. The LED driver, the wireless module and a 3.3V power supply for the module. Control of the intensity is done with a PWM signal from the wireless module to the LED driver. Kai measured the PWM frequency as 1kHz. Linear regulators are ideal for this application, as they are small and simple. But with the fairly significant amount of electronics in such a small area, the lifespan will be directly affected by how brightly you run the lamp. I always recommend setting them at an intensity lower than maximum for a longer lifespan. In hindsight, the resistive divider and LN input may be tied into the capacitor charge circuit, and may limit the voltage it is charged to. That would lower heat dissipation and allow it to auto-compensate for a wider supply voltage range. Kai found that the bluetooth module is an EWN-8250FGT1HA which looks like a fairly capable Bluetooth mesh system on chip module. The app seems quite "persistent" and seems to want to stay running in the background, which may impact your phone's battery run time slightly. That said, modern Bluetooth systems are much more efficient than the earlier ones. It also requires your location, probably to ensure that it is only active in areas where you have lights registered. I think the main reason this product was less of a success than desired is that most people are happy to just switch a light on and off at the wall. The increasing amount of home automation products introduce a layer of complexity to your home electrics that will only appeal to home automation geeks (and hackers). The Ledvance brand originates from the Osram brand and is now owned by the Chinese MLS Co. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A strange electrical probe from eBay, that may be aimed primarily at vehicle use, but probably has other applications. A side by side test with a Fluke meter showed an accuracy within 0.1V across the full range. The voltage range stated on the packaging is 3 to 36V, but I'd recommend 35V tops, and preferably lower due to the use of a standard 3.3V regulator. The circuitry is notable for the use of what I guess is tri-state multiplexing (charlieplexing) to drive the LED display, meaning that the three digits can be controlled by just six connections. The red lead is negative and the black probe is positive... So fortunately it does have polarity protection and an LED to indicate polarity. Strangely, green means wrong polarity and red means correct polarity. The only reason I can think of for the mystery diode between the input and output of the regulator is for the tiny current leakage via the sense resistor, that might reverse bias the voltage regulator if the probe was connected with the wrong polarity. The eBay listing this probe came from had the following description:- "12V Circuit Tester Probe 3-24v Electric Car Fuse Test Light Voltage Pen Detector" I paid £8 for mine inclusive of shipping. Note that some similar units do not have the same good accuracy. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I'll just assume that this unit is a clone of one of the many similar looking products. It's hard to tell which came first in a sea of lookalike products. I'm sure the true flashlight connoisseurs will know. In the UK we call these torches, which is kinda bizarre, since it's literally a progression from the original blazing stick that was used for light in the long distant past. According to Wikipedia the word torch comes from the French word torche, representing the fuel carrying wick wrapped around the end of the stick. So basically speaking this torch is an electronic blazing stick that fits on your keyring. This link finds them on AliExpress. Target price around 10 pounds. https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-EBL0269.html The lithium cell claims to be 500mAh, which is viable for its size, and it is charged at a current of around 350mA. The USB C charging port does not have the load identification resistors, so some smart chargers may not detect its presence and will not charge it. A plain dumb charger will charge it. The front LEDs have five modes. Brief high power output and four latched intensities, with current draw at 4.2V as follows:- Momentary high power = 2000mA High = 660mA Medium = 140mA Low = 67mA Night light = 13mA The small side LEDs have two chips each and are run at 100mA. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

An intriguing solar shed light that uses a YX8183 chip I've not come across before. It's from the same company that makes the generic 4 pin control chip used in most solar garden lights, but this one is optimised for use with lithium cells - both the common 3.7V type plus the LiFePO4 3.2V type. The chip has two distinct sections. The charge control circuit, which allows current to flow from the solar panel to the lithium cell until it is fully charged, and a section with a current regulated LED supply that uses a single low value resistor to set the current. Charge current is literally whatever the solar panel can provide until the internal charge control circuit cuts it off. The recommended maximum is 600mA. The LED current control is based on sensing a 90mV threshold across a sense resistor, so a 10 ohm resistor will allow 9mA to flow, while a 1 ohm resistor will allow about 90mA to flow. In this case a 0.33 ohm resistor has been used to set a current of about 270mA. In use the light provides a useful level of light in a dark room. It could be useful as part of the lighting for an off grid application. This unit was bought locally at Jac's, a chain of island stores that carries things like housewares, DIY supplies, toys and seasonal things like solar lights. Theoretically the light can be hacked to use a LiFePO4 cell by simply lifting or cutting pin 6. The LED current can be adjusted by swapping the sense resistor, and it's also possible to adapt it to turn on automatically at dusk by adding the 1K resistor shown in the datasheet between the solar panel +ve and pin 2 after it has been isolated from the PCB. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A new twist on the original ultrasonic plate that was used to "surge" the classic Guinness drink to liberate the nitrogen bubbles used to give it it's velvety texture. The previous version used an ultrasonic disk with a layer of water that you placed the can on and "surged" it before pouring. Guinness uses nitrogen instead of carbon dioxide for its fizz, since the nitrogen bubbles are a lot smaller and give it a distinct creamy texture when you drink it. With this version the surger is a device that clips on the top of a can and causes nucleation of the nitrogen in a controlled number and length of surges as the drink is poured. The result looks just like a pint of Guinness poured in a pub. If you look for reviews from Guinness experts you will see the difficulty they have differentiating between a pub poured and surger poured drink. Things worthy of note. The can has to be held at a suitable angle as shown at the start of this video, to ensure good connection with the cavitation zone and avoid air-bloop resulting in bigger bubbles. It's worth looking at the video showing the inventor of the unit showing it's correct use:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_J_Z7HbU2JY There is also a pub version that mounts on the bar and semi automates the process, allowing the Guinness to be stored in cans for ultimate freshness. It's a nice solid design. The ultrasonic atomiser is more robust than I expected, and the circuitry is logical and quite rugged. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Something worth adding to this. During the current war against Ukraine the cost of power banks has been price gouged and strings of low voltage LEDs sold out fast. the Ukrainians have indeed been using LED strings like these for comfort illumination. I get the feeling that the primary survivors of an apocalypse will be technically inclined people who can scavenge technical stuff to provide basic comforts like food, light and heat. Heat is trickier, but light is surprisingly easy. This is a very relaxed project where you can scavenge things like solar panels and batteries from other products to cobble together a light that can harvest whatever solar energy is available for decorative or practical use. You can also buy the 5/6V solar panels from eBay very cheaply if you have nothing suitable laying about. This design will work perfectly with two solar panels from standard single NiMH cell garden lights wired in series, or a bigger 5V/6V solar panel. The NiMH cells can literally be anything you can find, as can the LEDs. The only thing to watch out for with the LEDs is duff ones that have developed a leakage resistance and will drain the batteries without providing light. Ideally the solar panel will be aimed at an area of the sky that the sun traverses across during the day for maximum efficiency. The amount of charge the solar cell can put into the batteries is dependent on location and cloud cover. Some days it may be a lot and some it may be low, but either way the LEDs will continue to glow at low level even after several very dark overcast days. This simple arrangement would be perfect for an ambient light in a remote log cabin. It could also be a source of visual comfort during power outages in areas subject to regular storm damage. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

In the very best tradition of direct imports from China, this light has a few technical issues. I got this for comparing to other blacklight style light sources, and although the LED versions are more of a deep violet as opposed to proper UVA, they do perform pretty well. Most dayglow pigments will respond very well to light that extends well down into the blue area of the spectrum. Not sure how long this one would last in real use though, especially given it's impressive list of technical issues. In fact, if you have any of these lights in UV, "burple" , white or other colours then consider them as a high shock risk. Definitely not something you'd want where kids could touch them, or mounted on any metal surface. I do not regard these as suitable for outdoor use at all. (Or indeed any use!) The dark side of products like these is that people are buying them and installing them in the belief they are safe. Initially they will work, but they will inevitably fail, and when they do there's a high risk of them failing in a dangerous state. Especially if used outdoors where the casing may rust and disintegrate very quickly leaving exposed live circuitry. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is a rather unique USB rechargeable UVC germicidal light I got secondhand from eBay. I've not seen any other that uses a similar lamp with battery power. The circuitry started off quite pleasing until I spotted a rather dubious "option" link that bypasses a very important component deliberately. One notable feature of this light is the use of an LED driver to run a vintage technology mercury vapour discharge lamp. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Thanks to John for sending me some of the new updated versions of the Koppla charger. Since reviewing that one six years ago I've had one plugged in 24/7 for charging all my USB items, and it has performed flawlessly. The supply voltage range has been widened to 100V - 240V and the output remains the same at 3.4A total at 5V with a maximum of 2.4A per socket. This charger doesn't offer higher voltage express charging, which is good news for your phone's battery. I desoldered the mystery capacitor between the main MOSFET's gate and drain, and it measured around 22pF, which makes more sense. The main circuitry changes are an unusual feature that shuts off the startup circuitry to reduce standby power and a synchronous rectifier to improve efficiency greatly. Each output has its own self resetting overcurrent protection. The little MOSFET for shutting off the startup resistors is probably a depletion MOSFET that is on by default and turned off by a control voltage. The transformer is wound in four layers. Primary, secondary, more primary and feedback. The secondary insulation, spacing and sleeving is good. In the video I mentioned Apple compatibility, but the restrictive nature of status brands like Samsung and Apple does not guarantee compatibility. This industry-standard charger should charge just about every other brand in the known universe though. IKEA are one of my recommended sources for USB chargers, as they comply fully with safety regulations while being extremely affordable. It's very important to use a good quality charger for your devices to protect them and yourself against damage/shock. It's also best to use prominently branded cables too, especially for devices that charge at higher currents. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

For those who just want to know the bare facts about this charger, here's a super-short 2 minute version. If you want to know more the full version of the video has schematics, circuit description and data on specific components. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0yrCSD3FAM Long story short, it looks a well designed and safe charger. Just as we'd expect from IKEA. It's also VERY affordable.

A very simple, but extremely useful 6-24V test probe that can detect polarity and force energise circuitry in either polarity with the press of a button. It's basically a logic probe for cars and trucks. The circuitry is refreshingly simple, with just one oddity. It turns out that the original this was probably based off does just have the resistors and LEDs as I described. I wonder where the extra components crept in. This test probe is widely available on eBay. Target price is around 20. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

More information from Andy Brown. The reason the coil is driven with two voltages is not for reducing power dissipation. It's apparently called Peak and Hold, and is to give the injector enough power to open quickly, but then reduces the current so that the lower magnetic field collapses quickly when turned off, so the injector closes faster. A bit more probing does show 6.8V across the zener, but the voltage drop across the regulator is high and gets even higher under load. With no load the regulator was putting out 12V, but with a 10 ohm resistor as a load it dropped to 8V as shown on the oscilloscope. The oscilloscope I used is a very basic single-channel DSO150 unit that I chose to use purely for it's very simple controls. In use a fuel injector is fed a pressurised supply of fuel and gates it into the cylinder as a fine mist electrically. Common failures are blocked nozzles resulting in low fuel volume or a coarse spray pattern. The injectors can often be cleaned and fitted with new inlet filters. This unit causes them to fire so that you can either hear them click, or observe the quality of the fuel spray. The full size garage units have the injectors in a chamber so they can be observed operating, and the really posh units monitor the fuel throughput too. I do plan on taking the injector apart too, but it is both welded and crimped shut, so that's going to be a dremel job. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Since proper UVC sterilisation of a surface requires a decent output power and exposure time, I'd rate this dongle as being a useless piece of misleading theatre for non-technical people. But on a plus note, it has helped establish the market for these tiny UVC LEDs which do have some genuine uses for sterilisation of very small areas in equipment. The numbers on the USB power bank are a record of its diminishing capacity over many charge cycles. The circuitry is a bit weird, with slight overkill for the visual near UV indicator light and a small boost circuit to allow the UVC LED to be powered from 5V by boosting it slightly. Because of the very destructive nature of UVC energy, the LED has a metal case with a quartz window to allow the UVC to pass through. A normal resin LED would block the UVC and also degrade rapidly, probably going brown in the vicinity of the UVC chip. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Making trash cider even trashier. Truly the champagne of the working class. Also full of appley vitamins and minerals essential to maintain a fine physique. Today I learned that in the USA your standard cider isn't alcoholic. It's literally apple juice. In the UK cider is a standard alcoholic beverage like beer. I'm not sure how many actual apples were involved in this huge bottle of cheap cider, but I have a feeling that water, sugar, ethanol, malic acid, flavouring and colourant will feature heavily in the ingredient list. Basically a fortified soft drink for blue collar royalty. It took carbonation well, as indicated by the bottle being much less full now, and this description going a bit off the track. But the question is - will cloudy cider fare so well? Technical update:- 1 litre of cider absorbed 11g of carbon dioxide. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

An NVR (No Volt Relay or No Volt Release) is a safety device commonly found on most workshop equipment, that acts as an on-off switch, but will default to off if the power fails. I thought it would be interesting to take one apart, and it was interesting to find that the off button also applies force to the contacts to make sure they part reliably even if they have welded together slightly due to the switching current. The shading ring on the magnet core is used to cause a phase shift so the AC powered magnet doesn't lose force as the sinewave passes through the zero crossing point. That also reduces the risk of buzzing from the coil. It's similar to the approach used in shaded pole motors to provide rotational direction. Here's the Wikipedia page for the shading ring:- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shading_coil This unit came from a UK seller. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115501562742 If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Filmed on the fly while travelling, so will look and sound very different. Further to discussion on a live stream about whether it's safe to leave flux residue on PCBs, I dug out the prototype of a fairground game from almost 30 years ago and checked the condition of the tracks where the flux residue had been left on. There was no indication of any corrosion. I think the flux corrosion issue relates to the aggressive acid based fluxes used in more demanding soldering applications like pipework. The PCBs were all hand etched with a resist layer that is left on and soldered through. The display card was stripped and given a chemical tin plating. Any slight patterning on the larger tracks is where the surface was slightly pitted during etching due to the nature of the laser printed transparencies being a bit "grey" in larger black areas. This game was a classic wheel of fortune type of game that travelled with various fairgrounds in the UK. Looking at it now I'd give it more functionality, but at the time it worked well in its application. I'd also use a much more complex randomiser, as the simple one I implemented for the game start sequence has a distinct pattern. However, the game randomiser itself was based on a counter running continuously in the background, that was sampled when each game was started, so it had the ultimate randomisation of human input. These days I'd also use an RS485 driver chip for the network, but still use opto-isolators, as there are a relatively small number of nodes on the network, and the opto isolation was needed, as the power cards operated at mains voltage. The display used standard fairground cabochon light caps with four 60V lamps in series on 240V. A power driver card was mounted in an enclosure on the back of each display panel. The digital sound effects are generated in software with a simple 3-bit resistor based digital to analogue converter. On the full size operator consoles the speech was recorded onto several ISD audio chips that each had several samples cued up by the microcontroller. The small controller in this video was an emergency backup unit if the main controller got damaged in any way. It allowed the game to run without the speech, but still had a player operated start button. In use, each player would get handed a (captive) number token on a cord. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

One correction to make. I said and wrote 220uF for the main capacitor instead of the actual value of 22uF. (I was already thinking about the parallel 220nF capacitor when I did that.) Just like the other lights made by Sansi, this was a beast to get apart. Lots of plastic bits tightly clipped together. But once it was apart I could see the logic behind their assembly process. The main feature of this lamp is the custom ceramic core LED modules to help take the heat away from the LED chips. There is a bit of redundancy built in as three parallel sections of 12 LEDs are used per module. The buck driver is a classic type found in many LED lights. Each module has a voltage of about 36V at about 160mA. I bought this from a UK-eBay shop, but they appear to have eBay shops in other countries too:- The price has gone up significantly since I bought this one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_ssn=sansi_eu01 If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A detailed look at a "skeleton shaver" from various online sellers, with some VERY weird charging circuitry. I'm not sure if the microcontroller has a dedicated charging function or if there's some majorly weird processor-abuse going on, but it's some of the strangest lithium charge control circuitry I've seen in a long time. On a plus-note it stops charging at 4V, but that may vary between units due to tolerance. It works as a shaver. I have super-fine hair that often clogs other shavers, but this one did a great job of shaving my head very quickly with just one or two stalls in the process. You can find these on eBay and AliExpress if you search for "skeleton shaver". Shop about, as the price varies dramatically. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Thanks to Rob for sending this for a teardown. It was pleasingly simple inside, while still allowing full computerised control of the diversion between either or both outlets. It's fully hermetically sealed without any direct magnetic coupling, to avoid refrigerant loss through seals. I had to use the Dremel to get it open. It's used to selectively divert refrigerant between the fridge and freezer sections of a single compressor system, but could also be used in other applications. Unsurprisingly it uses a similar technique to the air flow diverter vanes in air conditioners. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is definitely a very unusual and well designed lamp/globe/bulb. The ceramic LED substrates are not new, but this is a very solid and intriguing design intended for general use. The cost was suspiciously low, to the point I thought it was a listing error, but further examination of the other listings suggests that they are trying to get established on eBay by luring people in with low prices and then nudging them up according to demand once the product sales have started flowing. It's notable that the highest prices were for popular lamps that are clearly being bought for indoor plant growing. Here's a link to the UK eBay seller I bought my lamps from:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_ssn=sansi_eu01&store_name=sansieu Searching for Sansi on eBay or other sales sites may find them in other countries. I've ordered a few other lights from them to check out. Notably the versions with smaller clusters of LEDs on lots of individual ceramic modules. They have taken an interesting universal approach to the lamp base type by making them all E27 Edison screw, and including BC22 to E27 bayonet cap adaptors. The ceramic LED substrate is very chunky. It adds a lot of weight to the lamps. This one weighed 110g vs a common aluminium core lamp weighing 27g. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

An interesting little rechargeable keychain light that is often described as an olight, but probably isn't? It's most notable for its simplicity, and the fact that it throws a load of extra LEDs into the mix with little extra cost other than the LEDs and a single resistor. In many ways the design is refreshingly simple, but then again, it is just a flashlight. So the magic will be in the firmware. First test on the cell hints at a capacity of about 100mAh, which is typical for these small lights. The charge current is probably a bit aggressive for that size, but may be aimed at instant recharge gratification. The use of an NPN bipolar transistor instead of a MOSFET for the main LED is odd. It reduces efficiency and also means that the lithium cell can be discharged lower than desired by continuing to draw current until the processor cuts off on low voltage. I wonder if the pin it's connected to has a dedicated LED driver mode (some processors do) or if it's just not capable of supplying as much current in a high state as it is in a low state. If you search on eBay for keywords like rechargeable keychain flashlight you will find many vendors of these with a wide range of prices. Aim for around 6 of your local (£$€) currency units. It's a useful little light, but I kinda prefer the flatter ones for use on a keyring that gets stuffed into a pocket. Then again, everyone has a different preference for their lights based on how they use them. The light thankfully doesn't have the dire SOS mode - choosing to emulate the emergency services instead! It also doesn't have an LED saver that dims it back from the full intensity setting after it's been running for a while. But then again, it doesn't really hammer the LED too hard. Reassembly of the light is easier than disassembly, and it does appear to support the PCB at the USB socket end and with the round LED PCB at the front. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

You probably didn't realise that Mercedes Benz make LED lights. It's notable that Mercedes Benz probably didn't realise that either. I broke this in my attempt to hack it, but fixed it and learned something in the process. I think the main reason this light is described as "Mercedes Benz series" is due to the shape vaguely resembling their logo. It's a replacement module for existing ceiling lights with metal backplates that you can stick the module to magnetically. My experience of older style Mercedes vans was that they were not in any way suitable for tall people with big feet, or indeed driver-comfort for anyone. I used to drive them when working with a lighting company, and that era of van was extremely loud (as in ears whistling like you'd just walked out a loud nightclub), grossly underpowered and so uncomfortable to drive that the only way I could even control the accelerator pedal was to rock my foot on the wheel arch at the side of it. The traffic sign incident was when I tried driving out of a narrow lane onto a busy and very small roundabout, and the only way to avoid the sign would have been to drive over the roundabout into oncoming traffic. So the sign probably deserved it. The only clue that I may have obliterated the sign was when people suddenly turned round and stared at me - but that could just have been due to the IMMENSE NOISE of the van's abysmal acceleration which made negotiating busy roundabouts a horrific experience. We finally got new vans when we handed the company accountant the keys to one of the vile Mercedes vans and invited him to take it for a test drive. He looked a bit shocked when he got back and then arranged to replace them with a fleet of new Transit vans. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The original Nokero light was designed to help avoid the use of kerosene lamps in developing countries, to reduce the exposure of kids to kerosene fumes and the fire risk. The copy was designed to be a cheap profit maker for an unscrupulous Chinese company. Nokero has honour, the cloner doesn't. In a way the clone is technically interesting for the way they have achieved two intensity levels (badly) by using twice as much circuitry, then defeating the point by using just as much power in both modes! I don't know the current situation with Nokero. I have another video featuring their light's circuitry, but I made the terrible mistake of releasing the video during the pandemic, which may have caused them supply issues. I think the brand still exists, but may be on hiatus. I deliberately didn't make a video about this light before in case it impacted their business negatively. But the clones are harder to find on eBay now. Not that you'll want one after seeing this video. A rough test on the NiMH cell does actually indicate that it is a real 1000mAh one and may be a low self discharge type due to it actually still having some charge left despite being bought over two years ago. Here's the video about the real light:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQqkxwuBLcU If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

These amazing pigment powders change from white to a colour when exposed to UV or near-UV light, and then gradually reset to white again afterwards. Even a small amount of pigment in resin has a very distinct effect. The packaging comes with a strong set of warnings including risks of flammable dust, inhalation risks, contact sensitisation and eye damage. Further investigation of MSDS data sheets suggest these may be aimed at high exposure industrial use, but there's no harm taking precautions. The powder consists of the photochromic chemicals microencapsulated for protection when used in things like inks. It's ultra fine, and quite hard to scoop out a controlled portion. Only a small amount is needed in resin to give a vivid colour change, as shown in the video. In the UK I got this from an eBay seller called perfectpearlsandpigments (not a sponsor) who seem to supply exotic pearlescent glitter additives to the specialist paint industry. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253279862369 A quick search shows that the pigment is also available from the usual online suppliers, including unusual photochromic glitter particles for nail-art. The effect is very impressive. A solid change of colour when exposed to wavelengths in the near UV to UVA region (400nm or less). A blue LED did not trigger the effect, but a near-UV one did. The change is also vivid in sunlight which is roughly 3% UVA. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is one of those weird things that you can get from AliExpress. It's one of the crimping tools you sometimes see in Chinese lamp factory videos, where the workers are assembling LED lamps and crimping the lamp base on. This means I can make unique low power lamps with custom internal circuitry, and also fix ones that I've cut apart to reverse engineer. It wasn't a super cheap tool (about £40), but It is kinda intended for mass hand production of lamps on a daily basis, and that means it actually was very cheap for what is a genuine piece of factory-grade equipment. Here's the seller I got it from. They also do various other lamp components:- https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1080054 I can see this featuring in future videos. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I'm not sure how widely these were available before the pandemic, but they're now all over eBay due to the market that was created for testing germicidal wands and lights. One very useful function of these it to test the ability of materials to block UVC light. By placing the test material (like my glasses) between the UVC source and the sensing surface it will indicate if the UVC is blocked. In my case all my glasses blocked UVC, which is reassuring. The UVA test surface seems to respond right down to the near-UV LEDs in the 395-405nm range. To find these on eBay use the keywords - UVC test card. Price should be around 5 £$€ for a pack of 5 and not much more for a pack of 10. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Having already discovered that white wine takes twice as much carbonation as water, I thought I'd push it to the max and try carbonating 140-proof moonshine. (Highest I could get.) The results were very surprising and even came with a bit of cryo-fog. Then I decided to taste-test it, and that's when things went wrong. But if you want to sanitise your hands or clean your PCBs with fizzy solvent it's perfect. To get the "proof" of a spirit just double the alcohol percentage - it's the "peak music power" of the drinks industry. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Given that these came from a pound shop (UK dollar store) I wasn't expecting too much, even if they did cost a bit more than a pound. But when I tried one out it had the linear consistency of electroluminescent wire, but with an LED source. The resistor on the PCB is strange. Almost like a design error, unless it's intended as some sort of fuse if the chip fails. It really feels like it was supposed to limit the LED current. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I traded my brand new huge Poundland lamp with a local friend for his very dead and moist looking one so we could explore why it had failed. The circuitry is slightly bizarre. It uses multiple linear current regulators for the LEDs and also to provide current flow evenly over the full sinewave, possibly for dimmer compatibility or to give the illusion of better power factor. The wires that connect from the lamp to the PCB do not take solder well. That's maybe why the lamp failed. It's pretty common for similar lamps to use square pins on the PCB with the wires tightly wrapped around them to avoid issues like this. I'm wondering if the failure of the capacitor was caused by electrical noise caused by the arcing. It's generously rated, so should have been OK with the LEDs going open circuit. But the arcing could have caused high pulses of current. I've still not worked out what the mystery component in series with the LEDs is. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Wago terminals are here to stay. They have a long history, make easy, good connections and avoid issues with over or under tightened terminal screws. They are fast and easy to use, and there are dedicated purpose junction boxes designed specifically for them. In this video I took a real Wago connector apart and a generic clone in fetching pink. I gave up on trying to put the Wago connector back together again. It clearly requires some sort of factory jig to clamp the springs in position as the contacts are inserted into the housing. The clone was a different story. It went back together easily with a very refined approach and single spring strip. Both connectors have tinned copper busbar plates that the wires are clamped against by spring steel grips. It's inevitable that roque products will creep onto the market at some point with lower quality contacts, so for safety reasons for professional electrical work I recommend only using genuine Wago terminals bought from a local high profile supplier. For personal technical projects the generic imports may be a useful alternative. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Masonlite was an iconic British supplier of neon equipment when the neon sign industry was at its peak. I think they may still exist in Dubai, but their UK base seems to have faded. This is a very unusual power supply for short neon tubes. When I say "neon" I actually mean the argon/mercury variant, as the mercury vapour seems to ride out the sine wave zero crossing point better than pure neon with this style of power supply. (Pure neon starts to cut in and out when it has warmed up.) Note that during this video I did have my hands in the vicinity of high voltage mains referenced electrical connections. Making contact with the output of these units will (in the words of Dirk Boonstra) "Blow all the hair out of your head." I have always been aware of the position of my hands with respect to the live connections to avoid testing this theory. When I first came across these modules I was intrigued to know what was in a wall-wart style plug-in power supply. I managed to get a hold of one and then explored it thoroughly. I also managed to restore the faulty tube I got it with, since it had been affected by mercury migration due to the use of DC current. It lattery turned out that Masonlite sold these bare resin potted modules for use in freestanding neon ornaments. I'm not sure if they were designed in-house or rebadged. When I'd sussed out the operation of the units it launched me on a very long and ongoing neon obsession, making my own minimalist multiplier power supplies and getting custom tubes made at a local Glasgow company called The Neon Workshop. It's notable that the manager of the workshop (Donald) was a veteran of the sign industry who had worked for Glasgow's equivalent to Las Vegas's YESCO - namely Franko Signs. In hindsight it would have been good to record our conversations as they painted an interesting image of that era in signage. The number of higher value multiplier stages dictate the length of tube that can be powered. The original could drive a few feet (about 1m) of tube, while my simpler single stage version is good for about 2 feet (600mm) of tube. I also made a few animated versions which had several multipliers and a control circuit to allow one PCB to power and animate several tubes. While running argon/mercury tubes on DC is very simple, it does have some disadvantages. The tubes can take a while to bed into a DC supply, starting off flickering slightly but quickly settling in and working fine. The mercury will gradually migrate from one end of the tube to the other, resulting in one end of the tube darkening over time. That can be fixed my shaking the mercury droplet back, or swapping the polarity. The extra slim version of this power supply for illuminated posters has a polarity reversal switch for that reason. If using with a vertically mounted tube the orientation can be chosen so that the mercury always drops back down to the bottom under gravity. I think the main joy of these power supplies is that you can rough a power supply together from standard components with no fancy high frequency transformers. This also makes them VERY reliable. An interesting effect of running tubes on DC is that one electrode (the cathode) does all the work. It's the only electrode that gets warm. With the proliferation of linear LED based light sources, it's become harder and harder to get custom neon tubes made. The process is a specialist art and requires complex and expensive equipment including high vacuum pumps, gas dosing manifolds and very dangerous high voltage bombarder units that heat the tube by passing high current through a near vacuum. It has become an art medium, and any working tubes you find should be treasured accordingly. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I had high hopes that this lamp may actually have used LEDs that had their output colour chosen to match the cover for maximum efficiency. But alas no. Just like the old tungsten lamps it uses white with a subtractive colour filter. In modern terms the circuitry is quite old fashioned too. The new standard seems to be for simple linear current regulators with enough LED chips to match the mains supply voltage. On a plus note, it does mean that this light is suited to a wider voltage range of about 80V to 240V. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

As components get smaller and smaller I'm seeing an increase in a specific failure mode where equipment dies with a very high current draw. And it's all down to one non-semiconductor component. This is the first task for my new Infiray thermal camera module. It performed flawlessly. By request, here's a link to the AliExpress listing I bought the thermal imaging camera from. The price should be around £200, so shop about if they increase the price too much. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002395381459.html If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Now it's time to test if beer can be made even fizzier with the addition of carbon dioxide. Not the most successful of the carbonation experiments. After making the video I tried to drink the carbonated beer directly from the sodastream bottle and it basically dumped all the carbonation out instantly resulting in a jet of foamy beer shooting out my mouth. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A look inside some of the drink pods of the Dolce Gusto drink making system. The reason the Gusto system has such a big pod is to accommodate the more complex drinks like white coffee or drinking chocolate. For a plain coffee pod the contents are approximately 5g of ground coffee and lots of empty space. The creamer based drinks have about 20g of powder in them, and the hot chocolate version uses two pods with drinking chocolate in one and creamer in the other to fit all the sugar and creaminess in. While this pod system may seem wasteful, I can understand why people use them. It's an affordable home version of the coffee shop barista experience. My preference is for the Nespresso system, since it is just for simple ground coffee pods, and as such they are much smaller and more affordable. Plus there's a wide range of refillable pod options for custom coffee choices. (A 250g pack of ground coffee will refill 50 pods.) If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee (pods), cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is unfortunate. It's a well designed miniature keyring power bank that has a design flaw that means a simple factory error can result in it damaging equipment it is plugged into. Some phones do seem to have protection against reverse polarity, but many USB charged items will be damaged by this device. The manufacturing error won't affect all of these units, but it definitely affects the one that I bought. It's fortunate that the first thing I plugged it into was a Ruideng USB test meter which appears to have reverse polarity protection . First charge cycle of the lithium cell indicates a capacity of 600mAh. Which is better than I was expecting, but well short of the 1500mAh stated on the eBay listing. (Which is completely normal for eBay these days.) If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is a string of 10 outdoor festoon lights that is designed to run on a 5V power supply. It's actually surprisingly bright for its total of 5 watts and would provide acceptable illumination in a dark outdoor area. The filaments are not being driven hard, so they should last a long time. Although it comes with a touch controller, it can be replaced with a direct connection or switch for simpler control or for use with a USB PIR sensor module. The lamps/bulbs/globes themselves are quite interesting because they have a plastic globe surrounding a standard glass filament support and the globe is crimped into a standard E27 style base. The internal resistor is 12 ohms, and both the 3V filaments are in parallel. I originally included a link to the eBay listing of this item, but the seller price gouged it to double the price, so I removed it. Keywords to find similar items are:- 24FT Festoon Outdoor String Lights Dimmable S14 Reference price £17 for a string of ten lights. They are probably available from local eBay sites and AliExpress. These lights would be perfect for camping, living off grid, emergency lighting or anywhere you wanted a safe low voltage string of lights. They'd also work well on a tree, indoors or out. I tested the string of lights at different voltages:- 5V - 1000mA 4.2V - 600mA 3.6V - 400mA 3V - 165mA 2.5V - 12mA A power pack based on a couple of decent 18650 cells (or a 5000mAh pouch cell) and a TP4056 module would run these lights for well over 10 hours per charge. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This fluorescent lighting ballast is a very good demonstration of a design that has gradually got so refined that it's cheap, but also usually very reliable. The mid point tap from the two power supply capacitors may be a way to reduce the voltage to simplify the circuitry. It's odd to see one of these without a capacitor in series with the tube, but that might be because it's a better or cheaper way to implement a higher power ballast. The case metalwork is thinner than normal. It's also notable that while there's plasticised card under the PCB as insulation, there's none between the ends of the capacitors and the metal enclosure. The capacitor cans aren't usually electrically connected, but it's generally a good idea to treat the bare metal end as live. It would have been good to test this with a tube, but I don't have one here. It's kinda pleasing to see that the main differences between a compact fluorescent lamp and a full size fitting are basically just the scale of the circuitry. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Another essential scientific test for the betterment of society. What happens when you put tequila through the sodastream (or other liquid carbonating device). The star badge I'm wearing was made by "mouse" and is available at:- https://www.tindie.com/products/flashything/flashing-christmas-star-pin-badge/ The striped hat is a waiter's hat from eBay. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I missed one bit... The circuit leaks current even when off so that the 3.3V rail stays active at about 0.7V. I think it's via the charge status line from the charging circuit. It's not a huge current, but it will affect the lithium cell's standby time, especially in storage. Especially as the low voltage rail has the sensor's heater across it. Thankfully the resistance of the heater seems very high. Maybe that's why they used the alcohol sensor, since the real sensors may have a much lower heater resistance. I find fake stuff like this hilarious. It makes me think that someone who actually believes this is monitoring carbon dioxide is going to get emotional when they've had some wine and the CO2 level goes off the scale. The self latching power button circuit is very neat. It's the electronic equivalent of a standard motor starter with latching contactor contact. The most useful bit of this video is the science of tin oxide sensors. What I showed is little more than a crude oversight to quite a complex scientific subject. The exact composition of the metal oxide layer is what determines the gasses detected, and there are usually other vapours and gases that will be detected alongside the desired one. But the payoff is the simplicity and ruggedness of the sensor. As you can see in the video, the resistance change is dramatic for even a whiff of gas or vapour. Further examination of the display does show that it's a fixed use monochromatic display with coloured panels printed over the circular segments. That's a shame, as it would otherwise have been an excellent base for a custom display unit. The use of a random cheap sensor to give the illusion of being real by genuinely reacting to environmental changes is amusing. I've a horrible feeling they may also pull this stunt on detectors that actually matter, like gas leak or carbon monoxide detectors. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This video left me "shaken but not stirred" in a good adrenaline rush type of way. Here's the "short" version (literally!) with just the explosions and fire:- https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ni0F-_NZge0 Two more completely fake products being sold via eBay and circumventing formal safety test channels. Not just fake though, but stupidly and very dangerously fake. They could have made a safe fake product, but instead chose to make one that can injure and cause fires. The electrically sustained fire at the end was caused by current flowing through the burning carbonising plastic. It would be interesting to test if this arcing would have tripped an arc fault detection breaker. I get the feeling it wouldn't due to their lack of sensitivity due to having to deal with noisy electronic loads. One day eBay's lack of interest in policing products sold through their website is going to catch up with them. Sometimes I wonder how many people have been injured or killed by the products they facilitate selling. Amazon have stocked this product too (current listing now removed). If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is a very simple LED lamp designed for decorative, sign and festoon use. It has one of the lowest component counts I've seen, and uses the higher voltage multi-chip LEDs to allow a very basic resistive current limiter. Each of the four LEDs has six LED chips in it to give the equivalent of a 24 LED string. If they'd used the 12 chip version of the LEDs it would have increased the efficiency, and a very low value capacitor could have been used to remove the slight 100/120Hz flicker. The low power and minimalist circuitry means that these lamps should be extremely reliable. Although designed for 220-240V use, the lamps should work on 100V upwards at lower intensity. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Quite an unusual version of the classic Edison screw festoon lighting strings. It runs on a 24V DC supply and each lamp has an eight chip LED filament in it. The listing has clearly been copied from other listings as it refers to the bases as both E14 and E27, and there's a good chance the spare lamp mention is just a listing error. (I didn't get one.) The globes unscrew from the holder to reveal a 24V 8-chip LED filament on a simple plug assembly. It's very easy to break the filaments, and I doubt spares are available. You may have to improvise by making a new one out of two standard 12V filaments in series. In this video I did manage to break a filament, and hacked in an alternative based on eight discrete LEDs in series. Some testing showed it needed an extra series resistor of about 100 ohms to get the current down to 15mA, which is a sensible level for light output versus LED longevity. You could also solder a lamp holder to the plug so you could use standard 24V LED lamps inside the plastic dome. It's actually worth getting just for customising the globes. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The perfect accessory for those instances where you want to take a selfie, but lack proper facial moistness. Aside from the traces of green corrosion on the PCB (probably caused by flux), there has been no sign so far of this unit leaking all over the phone it's attached to. That may vary by unit though. The LED ring has a fairly dense array of LEDs, but sadly they are not well matched for parallel use and some show significant current hogging. The capacity of the cell tested at an ungenerous 200mAh on the first discharge/charge cycle, despite having the size of a larger capacity cell. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I thought it would be fun to get a couple more UVC germicidal lamps to explore. One obviously fake and one real. UVC light does not usually get to the surface of the planet, which is a good thing, as it is very destructive. It is generated using mercury discharge lamps and other techniques to give a very strong sterilising effect for water, air and surfaces. Many factory food processing machines have these tubes inside them to sterilise things like conveyors. The little GU10 lamps may not be UVC, but they put out a nice amount of near-UV light for decorative purposes. They could be used for curing some light activated glues or to make fluorescent materials glow. You might find it interesting to look at the research done on the germicidal properties of UVA. It's a bit vague and usually has disclaimers, like some sort of student science project that didn't yield the desired result. The UVC tube is definitely a germicidal one with a whiff of ozone too. So absolutely do not expose eyes or skin to it. Naomi Wu made an interesting video on the use of these lamps with baffles, so they couldn't be viewed directly, but still shone the light above head height in rooms. It's a really useful thing to be able to recognise these tubes in case you come across them at work. That could be in HVAC, water sterilisation or food environments. There are cases when people have installed these tubes in insect traps and caused health problems to people working in their vicinity. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I love glitter lamps, and this version is totally customisable, including for off-grid low voltage use. You don't need a 3D printer to do this project, but it does give you more options. There are four scripts at the bottom of this description for making a test sizing-ring, the full base, the lamp mounting plate and the cable relief grip. At this point in time I think that many commercial glitter lamps use calcium nitrate to increase the specific gravity of the liquid. It's taken a long time to work this out, and there were many failed experiments with other things like table salt, sugar, glycerine and many other more exotic chemicals. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm Here are the four scripts for making your customised components in openscad. To use them download the free software from https://openscad.org/ and copy and paste the desired script into the script window. Press the button with a cube and double arrow to see a quick build. When you have it how you like it, press the button with a cube and hourglass to render it, then the STL button to save your custom STL file. Here's the script that makes a test sizing ring for your chosen bottle. You can adjust the diameter variable as required. Remember to leave the "=" and ";" on either side of the variable intact as they are part of the script. //GU10 glitter test ring diameter=70; //diameter of bottle $fn=100; difference(){ union(){ //main body cylinder(h=3,d=diameter+3.2); } //hollow core translate([0,0,-1]) cylinder(h=5,d=diameter); } Here's the script that makes the GU10 lamp base mounting plate. Just two variables - the thickness and the screw hole size. I recommend leaving them as they are. //GU10 glitter GU10 base support base=2; //base thickness hole=3.5; //screw hole diameter $fn=100; difference(){ union(){ //main body translate([-20,-20,0]) cube([40,40,base]); } //screw holes translate([+15,+15,-1]) cylinder(h=10,d=hole); translate([-15,-15,-1]) cylinder(h=10,d=hole); translate([+15,-15,-1]) cylinder(h=10,d=hole); translate([-15,+15,-1]) cylinder(h=10,d=hole); //GU10 base screw holes translate([-8.75,0,-1]) cylinder(h=10,d=hole); translate([8.75,0,-1]) cylinder(h=10,d=hole); //GU10 base wire holes translate([-7,8,-1]) cylinder(h=5,d=6); translate([7,-8,-1]) cylinder(h=5,d=6); } Here's the script for the cable grip plate. No variables to adjust. //GU10 glitter cable grip $fn=100; difference(){ union(){ //cable grip strip translate([-5,-15,0]) cube([10,30,2]); } //screw holes translate([0,-10,-1]) cylinder(h=6,d=3.5); translate([0,+10,-1]) cylinder(h=6,d=3.5); } Here's the biggie script that makes the whole base. The only variables you really need to change are the height (of the whole base) and the bottle diameter. //GU10 glitter vial base //MAIN ADJUSTABLE VARIABLES height=15; //total height of tube bottle=70; //glitter bottle diameter (60+) //OPTIONAL VARIABLES wall=1.6; //thickness of tube wall (1.6) base=2; //base thickness (2) pillar=7; //screw pillar diameter (7) post=10; //screw pillar height (10) screw=2.5; //screw hole diameter (2.5) $fn=100; //circle resolution (facets) (100) //DO NOT ADJUST ANYTHING BELOW HERE halfbot=bottle/2; difference(){ union(){ difference(){ union(){ //main body cylinder(h=height,d=bottle+(wall*2)); } //hollow core translate([0,0,base]) cylinder(h=height,d=bottle); //cable entrance translate([-(halfbot-2),0,6+base]) rotate([0,270,0]) cylinder(h=5+wall,d=6); } // lamp pillars translate([+15,+15,0]) cylinder(h=post+base,d=pillar); translate([-15,-15,0]) cylinder(h=post+base,d=pillar); translate([+15,-15,0]) cylinder(h=post+base,d=pillar); translate([-15,+15,0]) cylinder(h=post+base,d=pillar); //central support pillar cylinder(h=post+base,d=pillar); //cable grip pillars translate([-25,-10,0]) cylinder(h=6+base,d=pillar); translate([-25,+10,0]) cylinder(h=6+base,d=pillar); //pillar tapers translate([+15,+15,base]) cylinder(h=2,d1=pillar+2,d2=pillar); translate([-15,-15,base]) cylinder(h=2,d1=pillar+2,d2=pillar); translate([+15,-15,base]) cylinder(h=2,d1=pillar+2,d2=pillar); translate([-15,+15,base]) cylinder(h=2,d1=pillar+2,d2=pillar); //cable pillar tapers translate([-25,-10,base]) cylinder(h=2,d1=pillar+2,d2=pillar); translate([-25,+10,base]) cylinder(h=2,d1=pillar+2,d2=pillar); //central support taper translate([0,0,base]) cylinder(h=2,d1=pillar+2,d2=pillar); //cable grip ledge translate([-26.5,-7,base]) cube([3,14,4]); } //pillar screw holes translate([+15,+15,base]) cylinder(h=post+1,d=screw); translate([-15,-15,base]) cylinder(h=post+1,d=screw); translate([+15,-15,base]) cylinder(h=post+1,d=screw); translate([-15,+15,base]) cylinder(h=post+1,d=screw); //cable grip screw holes translate([-25,-10,base]) cylinder(h=7,d=screw); translate([-25,+10,base]) cylinder(h=7,d=screw); }

Another interesting example of people making products without understanding what they're doing. In this case it's a simple lamp adaptor with a built-in design fault that can make the shell of a bayonet cap lamp-base live. If the adaptor is used in a plastic ungrounded holder this won't be noticed, but it does pose a shock risk due to exposed metal. If the adaptor is put into an earthed/grounded socket then it will either bridge live or neutral to earth. That will either result in instant RCD/GFCI tripping if live is bridged to earth, or unpredictable tripping if neutral is connected to earth. When neutral is bridged to earth it can result in some of the neutral current bypassing the RCD and causing an imbalance. That results in the RCD/GFCI issues when a load reaches a specific level, even on other circuits. It can be quite hard to trace, because turning off single pole circuit breakers will not remove the neutral to earth short. I'm sure there are properly wired versions of these adaptors, but I've bought a few in this style from different sellers and they all had the same issue. It's probably best to test them before use. To test them, set a meter to continuity mode, hold one probe against the metal shell and touch the other probe to each end contact. There should be no continuity to the shell from either of the end contacts. Also note that these adaptors may not be suitable for tungsten lamps, and are best used with low power LED lamps for thermal reasons. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is one of my favourite ambient projects. Converting traditional tungsten fairy light strings into LED ones that run directly from wall power, but with the whole string using less power than just one of the original tungsten lamps. You can mix and match just about any LED you can find into the set and it is 100% serviceable and future proof. If you have the facilities to do so, you can also 3D print caps for the LEDs in various styles. This project does involve mains power, and is only recommended for those experienced in that area. With the two resistors per leg the shock risk is actually much lower than the original set and definitely lower than the rogue imported sets. The intensity is deliberately low, making these excellent for ambient decoration and night light use. The running cost is virtually nothing, even when left on 24/7, and the LEDs are running at such low current they will last a very long time. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Here's the script for the simple power supply tube. This can be made in flame resilient plastic if you can actually afford it. I made mine out of generic PLA. //PSU cup $fn=50; //(cylinder facets) difference(){ union(){ //main body cylinder(h=40,d=11.6); } //inner hollow translate([0,0,1]) cylinder(h=40,d=10); } The custom lamp cap script is below. Copy and paste the whole thing to OpenSCAD. The default settings below are for low voltage LED strings. Adjust the diameters and sizes to suit your holders. //Globe fairy light cap generator - bigclivedotcom //Generates an LED cap based on a top and bottom //diameter with connecting sides. //Suggested default values are in brackets. //ADJUST THESE VARIABLES FOR GLOBE SHAPE AND SIZE top=6; //Diameter of globe at top (6) bottom=20; //Diameter of globe at base (20) height=40; //length of lamp (40) facets=12; //Number of facets around lamp (12 at first) //More facets equals MUCH longer processing time! //ADJUST THESE VARIABLES FOR BASE DIMENSIONS baselen=4; //Length of base outside globe (4) inside=5.5; //Internal diameter of base (5.5) led=5; //LED HOLE diameter (5) //Don't touch variables below this line $fn=facets; toprad=top/2; botrad=bottom/2; outside=inside+2; base=baselen+5; difference(){ union(){ difference(){ union(){ //Outside shell of globe hull() { //base of globe sphere(r=botrad); //top of globe translate([0,0,height-toprad-botrad]) sphere(r=toprad); } } //Inside hollow of globe hull() { //base of globe sphere(r=botrad-1); //top of globe translate([0,0,height-toprad-botrad]) sphere(r=toprad-1); } } //LED base cylinder translate([0,0,0-botrad-(base-5)]) cylinder(h=base,d1=outside,d2=outside,$fn=100); //LED base dome translate([0,0,0-botrad+5]) cylinder(h=(outside-led)/2,d1=outside,d2=led+1,$fn=100); } //LED base interior translate([0,0,0-botrad-(base-5)-.01]) cylinder(h=base+.02,d1=inside,d2=inside,$fn=100); //LED dome interior translate([0,0,0-botrad+5]) cylinder(h=(outside-led)/2-1,d1=inside,d2=led,$fn=100); //LED hole translate([0,0,0-botrad+5]) cylinder(h=10,d1=led,d2=led,$fn=100); //x-ray cube //translate([-50,-50,-40]) //cube([100,50,100]); }

And finally the 20V tool PCB for the 20/40V battery pack system. This shares the same complex power management system as the others for ultra low standby current. It's quite perplexing. I think two of the inputs are analogue for voltage monitoring. An unexpected feature of this module is that it doesn't control the tool directly, but just sits between it and the battery. When the tool is used this module detects the load, wakes up and switches on the MOSFETs to allow the tool to be powered fully. The bulk of the circuitry is to allow the module to sleep when not needed. If woken, the unit remains awake while the load is present, but quickly shuts down into a sleep mode again. During sleep the processor is powered down completely and other sections of circuitry are also deactivated. Although you can trick the tool into running by putting a 10K resistor between negative and the central thermistor contact, it will lose the ability to sense if a non-compatible battery pack is low, so may over discharge the pack if it doesn't have its own internal under-voltage shutoff. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Having seen an interesting LED wiring loom used in a particular style of decorative light in the past, I was surprised to find it on AliExpress during a search for signage components. It's basically a long series string of two pole XH type connectors designed to allow easy connection of a string of LEDs in series on a non-isolated capacitive dropper power supply. That allows a large number of individual LEDs to be powered from a cheap and simple power supply. The downside of this system is that every socket poses a shock risk due to a lack of shrouding of live metalwork. That makes it particularly awkward that this system was used on a fashionable decorative light range that had the LEDs stuffed randomly throughout a structure wrapped with spiral aluminium wire, and in amongst "flowers" that were more coiled aluminium wire scrunched together. I don't think they were earthed/grounded, which makes me wonder how many people got tingles off the lights. The newer ones seem to have switched to using strings of sleeved LED Christmas lights. In a cheap signage application I could see this being used in window signs where LEDs were poked through the wooden or plastic front and then interconnected with these strings of sockets. The simple capacitive dropper style supply means this circuitry will work with 120V supplies too, but will drive less LEDs (about 50 per circuit). The red coloured 400V dropper capacitor can be changed to alter the LED current. 100nF to 680nF are suggested values. Although I ordered three strings of these, expecting three bundles of 100 connectors, what actually arrived was one 100 connector bundle of random detached lengths as if I'd been sent offcuts. All the more suspicious that there was a defective section with one intermittently open circuit link. Very hard to narrow down when it flickers with the slightest movement of any sockets in the vicinity, and they are potentially live at around 300V. (There was a mis-crimped wire.) The seller did give a refund for the two missing looms. When terminating the wire into the power supply (after a circuit upgrade) I found that the loom wire did not take solder, and may be aluminium. I'm not sure how well that bodes for crimp reliability. If used, this is definitely the sort of loom that should be built into something and not used where the individual holders can be touched, as they do pose a shock risk. Likewise, I recommend taking suitable precautions while working with it. (Gloves and avoiding grounded surfaces.) Here's a listing from a different supplier:- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004380896591.html If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

One of the most pleasing things about China is their "relaxed" approach to electrical safety. That's summed up nicely in some of their electrical test equipment, like this adorable little connection box that has spring loaded speaker connectors for hooking up mains connections. This is made even better by the single pole switch with neon indicator, and a non polarised plug, meaning that even with the switch off one of the outputs may be live at 120-240V. It's worth mentioning that they also have a very slack approach to earth/ground connections as demonstrated regularly by the unconnected earth wires in their products. That means that there's a good chance that many Chinese factory workers are literally live at 220V or more regularly during the day without even realising it. Obviously I don't recommend buying one of these, other than as an exciting curiosity. They are widely available on AliExpress with descriptions involving words like LED lamp test connection box. They even do bench mounting strip versions with several speaker connectors for mass connection of electrical stuff. The lack of polarity and double pole switch means that if you stick a wire into one of the terminals that may or may not be live then the other unconnected wire may become live via the load before you've even connected it. A slightly more compliant version for naughty experimenters might be to use a proper double pole neon indicator switch in line with the (48V rated) speaker connector. I'm very tempted to make a 3D printed version just for the foolishness of it. The first UK compliant connection unit I showed is a Cliff Quicktest, which has a very long history in our electrical workshops. It's a lot more expensive, but is industrial-grade. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This didn't go quite to plan. The screw that holds the chuck onto the output shaft seems to have major threadlock on it, so I didn't get to explore the final clutch stage internally But it's revealed the PCB module that we're all interested in anyway. I'll leave the proper mechanical teardowns to my Canadian YouTube-bro AvE the tool-teardown master. First thoughts on the 20V version of the electronics are that the base module only switches off power to the variable speed trigger when it detects a battery with low charge or overheating. Its power supply deserves further investigation, as the module is always powered when the battery is connected, so my thought that it might use a simple resistive dropper isn't an efficient way of doing that. The thermistor input that enables the tool seems to operate between a resistance of 2K and 68K. The thermistor can be switched off by the battery, so it may be using that to stop the tool when the battery is low. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Such a weird product. Really good circuitry sabotaged by dumb penny-pinching. I had high expectations that this design was going to be minimalist and very crappy. But it's not. The circuitry is actually pretty good, which makes the cost motivated economy of just one component a bit perplexing. The listing was notable for saying it has a 5000mAh cell (it doesn't), has low risk of explosion (which is always good), heats on both sides (it doesn't) and can be used to heat your feet and other body parts too. People like us with technical skills could upgrade this unit by beefing up the lithium cell to something more sensible. But the use of a flat heater panel jammed against a concave plastic case just doesn't quite transfer heat as well as the posher version with metal heat plates does. On a plus note, the circuitry is nice with a couple of good educational parts to inspire other designs. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A look at the circuitry of a generic non-compliant eBay insect zapper. In hindsight I had already changed the original fuse in the plug, as it was a fake 13A fuse with no sand fill and one of the ends popped off when I took it out revealing that it had just been jammed on over the wire. At least the fuse was in circuit. The flex is probably the thinnest copper coated aluminium they could find, as is common with these products. The circuitry is fairly standard, and the LEDs are running at about 12mA so they should last OK even if they are not going to be too bright. LED power is about 0.8W so not really going to be great for attracting insects other than in a very dark room. In short - just basically what you'd expect of a grey import. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Although these have been about for a few years now, I've stalled with buying one to take apart because they were initially overpriced for what they are. Their claims of being the most realistic candle effect didn't justify them being more expensive than the dancing flame type LED candles. Now they are at a more sensible price I bought a couple and took one apart so we could see what's inside them. It turns out there's not a lot inside. Now I just have to find a source of this newer generation effect LED, as all the ones on eBay are unnatural colours with a lurid pulsing effect. Or maybe just reincarnate an old project which ran a standard warm LED from a PIC microcontroller with a similar effect. I sharpened a glue stick in a pencil sharpener for the flame and drilled a 3mm hole for the LED, and it gave a very similar effect to this one. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I'll start by saying that in the UK the term "festoon lighting" means a cable with lots of lamps spaced along it. Very popular for ambient outdoor lighting in gardens and at outdoor events. I've since realised that the seemingly inefficient design may actually be to allow this lamp to operate from 100V to 240V. In fact, on a 100-120V supply it will run so cool (0.5W total) that it will have a massively long lifespan. I've also proven once again that just because you buy something from an eBay listing doesn't mean the same product will arrive next time. I bought some of the cold white versions of this lamp and they use minimalist circuitry that flickers! This lamp is a very golden white 1W single LED filament globe and looks visually very pleasing, with no flicker and a soft glow. It turns out that the filament is only passing about 2.5mA and dissipating 0.3W, so the bulb should last for ages. (There - I've managed to say, lamp, globe and bulb to please everyone.) The circuitry is entirely as expected, but disappointing in that the lamp could have run two filaments for double the light for the same power dissipation on a 220-240V supply. On a plus note, the hideously inefficient design means that these lamps will handle a wide voltage range. My resistor hack would have made it less suitable for the wider voltage range, although it would still have lit, albeit at a much lower intensity on 120V. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Visually this LED filament bulb looks nice, and to be fair it does light up... But with no smoothing at all? I fully understand the reliability of minimalist circuitry, but I wonder what effect the potential inrush current will have on the LEDs over time. When you have a simple capacitive dropper and power is applied, then the discharged capacitor will represent a near short circuit initially, And that results in a current spike limited only by the wiring resistance and the LEDs. It's a very short pulse of current, but if you turn the power on at the peak mains voltage it will be a high current spike. That's even worse with a traditional dimmer, as half intensity will be turning the light on at peak mains voltage twice per cycle. That's 100-120 times a second. My guess is that this is the cheapest and smallest universal LED drive module they stock. Primarily intended to fit into very small lamp caps, but also slapped into all the others too. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This project was inspired by a joke a friend made about vintage glass screw-in fuses looking like collectable neon lamps. It made me realise that I could make a custom version using just the bare base of a lamp with a suitable cover. These little neon indicator lamps usually run at 1mA or less and use a fraction of a watt of power. The ones in appliances are often over-run as mentioned recently by Technology Connections, but when run at a sensible current they can last virtually forever. In 220-240V countries I recommend using two 100K resistors, and in 100-120V countries I recommend using two 22K resistors. I printed the cover in clear/natural PLA, although other clear plastics would work too. I used a classic orange neon lamp, but you could use the phosphor coated ones too for colours like green, blue and white. However, the plain neon indicator will probably be brightest. The openscad script is at the bottom of this description. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Here's the openscad script. If you copy and paste it into openscad (freeware) then it will let you create an STL file to print. The variables at the top of the listing can be adjusted if desired, but are currently the same as I used to make the cap in the video. Press the hourglass button to make the STL file, and then when it has been created press the STL button to save it. For a fast preview of any changes press the button next to the hourglass button. //Lamp cap diamond. //You can adjust the five variables below base=25; //Diameter of base for lamp rim=5; //Length of rim at base size=50; //Size of diamond facets=6; //Number of sides (default 6) scaling=0.66; //Ratio of length to width (default 0.66) //Don't change variables below here halfsize=size/2; $fn=facets; difference(){ union(){ //outer body translate([0,0,0]) cylinder(h=4+rim,d1=base,d2=base,$fn=100); translate([0,0,-(base/2)+rim]) cylinder(h=halfsize,d1=0,d2=size); translate([0,0,halfsize-(base/2)+rim]) cylinder(h=size*scaling,d1=size,d2=0); } //Inner core. translate([0,0,-1]) cylinder(h=6+rim,d1=base-2,d2=base-2,$fn=100); translate([0,0,-(base/2)+rim+1]) cylinder(h=halfsize-1,d1=0,d2=size-2); translate([0,0,halfsize-(base/2)+rim]) cylinder(h=size*scaling-1.5,d1=size-2,d2=0); translate([-halfsize,-halfsize,-halfsize]) cube([size,size,halfsize]); }

I missed a resistor on the first page of the schematic while drawing a neater one. Can you work out where it goes? The answer is at the bottom of this description. This is a small keychain solar power bank I bought from eBay. What I didn't know is that it was NOS (New Old Stock) dating back about ten years, and it shows what an amazing leap the circuitry in power banks has made. Instead of a single chip, inductor and smattering of capacitors, this unit has lots of discrete circuitry to give a similar result, but still cheats on the end of charge detection. The unpopulated chip position does correlate to being an LTH7 charge control chip, but has no facility to turn off the LED on charge completion. The existing DW01 LED control hack would not work, since the LTH7 would terminate the charge just before the DW01 turned off the MOSFET (and disabled the LED). It's actually quite an interesting design. Mid-play video-adverts are annoying in technical videos, so I don't enable them. If you appreciate that and enjoy my content then you can help support the channel with a contribution of a dollar or two a month on Patreon. That also lets you critique the (advert free) videos before they are released, gives a more direct means of communication with me and also gives access to the regular relaxed Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators Did you manage to work it out? There should have been a 10K resistor between the base of the LED transistor at the left hand side of the schematic, and the collector of the one that switches its base to the 0V rail. The link shown would have shunted the current intended for the LED to the zero volt rail.

The original listing for this watch stated "Slimwe Ultrasonic Body Shape Wristband, Lymph Drainage Magnetic Bracelet" Which may be copied from the listing for an equally suspicious product. They've since tamed the listing to "Slimwe Ultrasonic Body Bracelet Shape Wristband, LED casual sports touch Bracelet" The listing originally showed various medical-style pictures implying that the unit liquifies fat cells, prevents lymph node blockage and promotes blood circulation. In hindsight, I noticed that the missing LED may have been as supplied, so maybe this is just their way of getting rid of factory rejects. Nice PCB though. Mid-play video-adverts are annoying in technical videos, so I don't enable them. If you appreciate that and enjoy my content then you can help support the channel with a contribution of a dollar or two a month on Patreon. That also lets you critique the (advert free) videos before they are released, gives a more direct means of communication with me and also gives access to the regular relaxed Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

An internal exploration of the charger used for the dual voltage Activ Energy 20/40V power tool batteries. The circuitry breaks down into two distinct sections. A fairly conventional power supply and a charge control system. The main oddity about the power supply section is that it has extra voltage regulation for its controller due to the variable output voltage range that is adjusted to maintain a constant charge current. The low voltage control circuitry is based on a chip marked Lideal 1508 B9417001V89. It has the facility for bidirectional communication with the battery pack, which has two sections with a common master control chip. It can also monitor the pack temperature during charging. When the pack is charging the controller can adjust the power supply voltage to maintain a constant current via a sense resistor. Each section of the battery has its own MOSFET so it can be charged independently if needed, especially for basic balancing, although the batteries themselves don't seem to have individual cell balancing. The tools that use the dual voltage batteries simply connect the two battery modules in series or parallel as needed. They are enabled by the detection of the battery thermistors, which are also used by the battery itself to signal that charge is low and stop the tool operating. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Different again! This one came from One Below, or possibly now One Beyond. I think this one has the harshest LED current yet, but has easy hackability, including changing the current limiting resistor and the LEDs to ones that fit your needs better. It could also be converted to use a rechargeable lithium cell, although it will accept three rechargeable AAA NiMH cells as standard. I regard these lights as a useful base for customisation, or even as an enclosure for other circuitry. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A dual purpose device that not only repels ghosts, but provides a reassuring ambient glow for remote off grid locations. Here's the wikipedia page for hypnagogia:- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypnagogia And the one for pareidolia:- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pareidolia Note that by "gallium nitride" I just mean standard white and blue LEDs. I ran a poll on the channel about shadow sightings and 40% said they had seen them. It's nothing too scary, as it's probably just your brain reacting to visual noise in very dark environments, or fatigue/stress causing your brain to misinterpret random shapes and make a human outline out of them. After the poll I decided to release this video earlier than intended, as I think it could make life more comfortable for kids (and adults) who experience this a lot at night. The device uses the extremely high efficiency of modern white LEDs to create an ambient glow that literally runs 24/7 for months on a single charge of good quality NiMH cells. With the solar hack it will potentially run for many years before the cells or LED need replaced. I've always had a slight issue with what might be called "shadows in the dark". A very spooky effect where you can see the shadows of people moving around in a very dark room. When I started having to spend a lot of time on the Isle of Man to look after my mother, I found the extreme blackness of island living very disconcerting, because the intense dark at night allowed ghostly images in my mind to be visible. If i was going to be all sci-fi about it, I'd describe it as if my bed was in a busy public place in an alternate dimension where I could perceive a continuous flow of people around me. It necessitated the use of a low level lightsource to raise the threshold of detection and make for a much more relaxing sleep experience. Basically a night light. This might cast a new "light" on kids who see "ghosts" in their room at night. And unfortunately many don't grow out of it. They just get used to it - but don't talk about it in case people think they're nuts. This version uses a very standard two AA cell battery holder with a 56 ohm resistor and an LED of your choice, or alternatively a socket so you can choose between LEDs easily. The unit does require low self discharge NiMH cells for maximum time between charges, and it's worth mentioning that some lesser LEDs (eBay!) may exhibit a parasitic resistance that results in less run time per charge. I found that I only need to charge the cells roughly every few months. The light output is extremely low, but in a very dark environment it is surprising how well it illuminates a room. But not bright enough that it disturbs sleep. It also showcases the massive dynamic range of human eyes. From near zero light to intense sunlight. I may have partaken of alcoholic beverages before making this video, but have no regrets whatsoever. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is the more sophisticated battery level gauge than the earlier op-amp based one. It uses a microcontroller to do the level testing, and has solder-blob links for selecting from 1 to 8 cells. The design is refreshingly simple with a selectable voltage divider for different cell counts, and all the threshold detection done with software. Mid-play video-adverts are annoying in technical videos, so I don't enable them. If you appreciate that and enjoy my content then you can help support the channel with a contribution of a dollar or two a month on Patreon. That also lets you critique the (advert free) videos before they are released, gives a more direct means of communication with me and also gives access to the regular relaxed Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

The biggest surprise from this unit is the very high ion output from such a tiny transformer and simple pulse circuit. It takes very little power to create a high electrostatic field. Once again they've felt to need to add the pointless function of an on/off button implemented with a microcontroller. Ionisers are left running all the time, as they use virtually no power and have a continuous ambient cleaning effect on the air through electrostatic dust precipitation. When the emitters are mounted close to a wall as in this version it does unfortunately create a bit of an ionic short circuit, limiting the dust collection ability, but plugged into an extension on a table would restore that function. When in the vicinity of a wall the ion output can be so vigorous that it creates a slight plasma glow at the tips of the emitter, and will create trace levels of ozone lower than natural outdoor levels. The X04 component is intriguing. I'll guess that it's a sidac with a voltage less than 150V threshold so that it triggers reliably when running from 120V. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts for a more relaxing viewing experience. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. The Patreon support keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

I've seen these on eBay in various forms and decided to get one to reverse engineer. Rather pleasingly, they have used standard components to make the device, so it does offer a level of hackability for custom voltage threshold measurements. In hindsight I wish I'd got a version for higher voltage use, as the single cell version dims the display noticeable over the discharge levels. That could be a good thing for a continuously active display though. The voltage thresholds I measured tallied well with the spec of the module, so it's a useful indicator of cell charge status. I've not worked out what the mysterious indicator LED position is for. A quick search didn't reveal a version that used it. I've just ordered a different version that uses what appears to be a microcontroller to do the job, with a selectable voltage scaler for multiple lithium battery size options. I despise intrusive mid-video video-adverts, so despite being able to earn more advertising revenue by using them, I choose not to. If you appreciate that and enjoy my content then you can help support the channel with a contribution of a dollar or two a month on Patreon. That also lets you critique the (advert free) videos before they are released, gives a more direct means of communication with me and also gives access to the regular relaxed Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

Hope you have a fun and interesting Christmas and New Year.

This is the PCB from a Ferrex 40V angle grinder from Aldi. I did the mechanical teardown in another video, so now it's time for its control PCB. One slight correction to make. The battery thermistor input is pulled up to the positive rail and not the zero volt rail. It appears to be used for actual thermistor monitoring as well as control. This PCB has two main functions. It gives a ramped soft start to the tool and also detects the control signal from the 20/40V battery to indicate when it is low on charge or overheating. I don't think the battery itself has any ability to switch power off to the tool. It will be explored in its own video. The bulk of the circuitry is for internal voltage regulation and MOSFET driving, with other simpler sections detecting the switch being turned on or off to facilitate doing another soft start reliably with each switch operation. Reverse engineering this was made a lot harder by the way the PCB is soldered to the battery blades in situ and the fact that a section of it was covered in an unusually resinous silicone-like coating that was very hard to remove cleanly. Mid-play video-adverts are annoying in technical videos, so I don't enable them. If you appreciate that and enjoy my content then you can help support the channel with a contribution of a dollar or two a month on Patreon. That also lets you critique the (advert free) videos before they are released, gives a more direct means of communication with me and also gives access to the regular relaxed Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

I just know that some of you are going to buy one of these delightfully spooky things. If you feel the need and live in the UK then here's an active listing:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325425242114 Alternatively the listing description is:- Christian Toy | Singing Teddy Bear | Christmas Gift If I sound a tad uncomfortable at the beginning of the video it's because I had a strong religious upbringing when I was young and latterly it was a cause of conflict in my family. I totally empathise with those in a similar situation and believe everyone has a right to follow a religion of their choice if desired. For many it can be a comforting and sociable thing. For the sound quality the circuitry is surprisingly minimalist, with a one-chip solution that appears to be made specifically for toys. In hindsight I should have tried it on the bench power supply to see if it sounded extra weird when the voltage was reduced. Mid-play video-adverts are annoying in technical videos, so I don't enable them. If you appreciate that and enjoy my content then you can help support the channel with a contribution of a dollar or two a month on Patreon. That also lets you critique the (advert free) videos before they are released, gives a more direct means of communication with me and also gives access to the regular relaxed Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

This was one of those reverse engineering projects that had to be revisited a few times. The circuitry is unusual and it took a while before the puzzle clicked into place. It's always that bit harder to probe surface mount components on a double sided PCB if trying to probe both sides at once. That said, the whole design can be summarised as follows. It has two independent batteries that each has its own charge monitoring processor. One processor is the master and deals with pack status communication, while also communicating with the other battery's processor via a bidirectional opto-isolated data link. The method of detecting individual cell status by gating a voltage divider feeding an analogue to digital convertor (ADC) is weird due to the odd resistor values for each cell. My best guess is that the design is trying to fit to nice round figures in the software. The NTC temperature pin can have either of the battery thermistors connected to it, plus potentially do simple bidirectional communication with the tool or charger. The two rows of pads are probably for testing and maybe programming of the packs during manufacture. It would make sense to have the reset circuit in their vicinity. Update. I couldn't quite work out the weird communication circuitry on the NTC/T pin. It turns out that it was different to my schematic, and the two 750K resistors are a divider driving the gate of a MOSFET that is switched by an external 12V communication signal, and then converts it to a logic level signal for the processor. The thermistor pin receives data and the ID pin sends it by switching an external 12V signal to 0V. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I thought it was about time I repaired an interesting light that a friend brought back from a visit to India for me. The Indian religious celebrations tend to involve a lot of exotic lights, and this one combines LEDs and a neon flicker flame globe. I was hoping the fault was just going to be a fried resistor, and while the light did contain two very fried resistors, it turned out that the problem was actually in the neon globe itself. So I took some measurements and made an openscad script to create a new insert that takes an E10 holder for a standard Christmas mini flicker flame lamp. Openscad is perfect for simple shapes like this with just four cylinders. The main body and its lip, then deducting the lamp base shroud and hole for the lamp holder. I made the insert in PLA since it was in the printer already, and to keep the lamp base temperature down I added a series capacitor to reduce the dissipation of the resistor in the neon lamp's base. It would probably be better to use a higher temperature plastic for the insert. The end result looks good, and has the added advantage of being able to change the neon globe or even replace it with an LED one if desired. You could also modify the insert to add more LEDs in series with the existing ones. If using a lot you may have to upgrade the electrolytic capacitor's voltage rating to suit. The use of a 50V capacitor in the LED circuit means that when an LED goes open circuit the voltage across the capacitor may increase above its rating. Because the supply is current limited that will tend to result in a controlled separation of the capacitors base and tube due to slow internal pressure build up. Here's the openscad script I wrote to make the new insert. //Indian lamp insert $fn=100; //(cylinder facets) difference(){ union(){ //flange cylinder(h=1,d=28); //insert cylinder(h=3,d=24); //main body cylinder(h=20,d=18.4); } //safety rim translate([0,0,10]) cylinder(h=11,d=16); //lamp holder hole translate([0,0,-1]) cylinder(h=25,d=10); } If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The only reason I got this tool was to see how they implemented the connection of the two 20V sections of the battery to get 40V. It's probably just banging them in series, but there's a good chance that the battery itself has no power switching facility and just has cell voltage monitoring, and maybe even balancing if we're lucky. It probably sends a control signal to stop the tool being used when one of the cells in the pack reaches a set low-voltage level. The one bit I didn't show was the pair of carbon brushes for the split ring commutator. To rebuild the angle grinder (which I did) required complete removal of the brush assemblies, the insertion of the magnetic stator assembly with the keyed end going in first, the placement of the plastic fan cowl, then the insertion of the rotor. Noting that if everything is not correctly aligned then the end cap doesn't fit on. Presumably to prevent misassembly at the factory level. The last thing to go on is the pair of brush holders, with the carbons re-inserted against their springs and then slid down into position so they pop out against the commutator before their locking screws are installed. If you take one apart, note the motor polarity, as the motor will happily go in either direction and the wrong one will attempt to unscrew the disk locking ring when in use. It's all fairly cheap, simple and logical inside. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Christmas time is here and that means it's time for Mr-T Santa to get merry with his big string of beads. Super-clever reversing mechanism involving two rotating plates with a slight differential so they rotate slightly out of phase to allow a ramp to pop in and out to change reversing gears. Given that both plates have a common driving shaft I'd guess one has a single gear tooth difference around its circumference to cause the slow rotational offset. Also a loud and weird musical element that is based on Jingle Bells - a track that is in the public domain due to originating in 1857. I'm sure some predatory "music rights society" will try and claim it though. The odd crashing sound effects over the top of the music almost suggest it has been borrowed from a cartoon version. The detail on Mr T santa is surprising. A very well modeled face with matching afro-curl beard, and glitzy attire reminiscent of asian culture. I was expecting a white Santa-beard regardless of skin tone. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Following another video where I showed that you can make a handy emergency backup light from salvaged lithium cells, I got a few messages implying that with a load connected to a cell the charging may not stop and risk overcharging the cell. To be fair it does look like that is happening, but in reality its down to the way the TP4056 and its many clones and variants indicate the end of charge state. I set up an experimental rig to monitor current and voltage, and confirmed that the reason the charge never seems to end is because of the programmed current threshold the TP4056 chips use to detect end of charge. When you set the desired charge current on these chips with the programming resistor it doesn't just set the charge current, but also a threshold of one tenth of that current that is used for both initial trickle charging to get an over-discharged call gently back up to 3V, and also the point at the end of charge when the current gradually drops to that lower current level. If the load is above that level then the current will gradually tail off at the end of charge, but because it ends up powering the load directly it never reaches the end of charge threshold. It will only be supplying enough current to drive the load and hold the cell at its nearly fully charged state, but will just not switch the LEDs to display charge completion. With a load current lower than the end of charge threshold it will terminate the charge, but then kick back in again when the voltage drops to a slightly lower voltage, and top the cell up again. That results in the charge status LEDs slowly toggling back and forth. The cell will not be charged above its voltage limit in either instance. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A marvelous gadget of the modern era that avoids rectal trauma to babies while excrement is being wiped from their stinky-bits. The circuitry is predictably minimal with a USB C connector hobbled by non-compliance with current-request protocols (just two more resistors). If you get one and it doesn't work then try it with an older power supply, noting the continuous 2A current requirement. The product could be a useful source of the rather nice heating core for specific applications. You can find these on eBay if you search for USB wet wipe. There appear to be different styles, notably the one that just sits on top of the bare packet. I think the stout rubber bands in this version would provide better thermal transfer. The cost will vary between about 10 to 15 space-credits, with the bulk of the cost probably being due to it's shipping size and the fashionista baby-market it's aimed at. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

There are harmless quack products on eBay and then there are fake products that have been deliberately designed from scratch to be deceptive. The manufacturer of this one clearly has no grasp of electrical theory, and has faked the circuitry so badly that they've ended up referencing the output carbon fibre emitters directly to mains voltage. Worse still, they've spent so much effort faking the product that they could have built a REAL one for close to the same price. Thanks to Adi for reminding me that these things exist. I recall coming across one a very long time ago, so there must be a market for them if they are still being sold. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Having seen the "tame" version of this in some eBay listings (just a box with a switch and speaker terminals), I went on eBay looking for one, and found something much more exciting. This is a lamp tester for use in Chinese factories where they assemble the lamps and then test them to see if they light. This unit also does a fast power test that will beep a warning if the lamp deviates from a preset power range. It's really exciting feature is the auxiliary mains voltage test facility that gives you the option of stuffing wires into speaker connectors or just using flying test probes with full mains voltage on the tips. It makes me wonder how many innocent Chinese factory workers have passed pant-filling amounts of electrical current, or simply had the probes explode on contact with either faulty equipment or random metalwork in the vicinity. Not helped by the unpolarised power connector. I have found the little 8 pin chip data, and it's actually quite an exciting little chip for use in power monitoring applications. It does all the dirty work of measuring current, voltage and phase relationship for accurate power measurement. The processor only has to read it, process the results and then present them on the multiplexed display. Here's the data sheet in English:- https://www.belling.com.cn/media/file_object/bel_product/BL0937/datasheet/BL0937_V1.02_en.pdf Soldering the detached wire back on proved to be a bit tricky, as the wire is definitely not copper and would not take solder well. Note that for obvious reasons this is not suitable for use in factories in the majority of other countries. Test equipment normally has to have safety systems built in to avoid accidental electrical contact. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

It's always fun to buy random high voltage equipment from vague Chinese sellers on eBay and try and work out how it works and how to use it. In this instance it turned out to be a gas burner ignitor with some interesting circuitry to optimise cost and function. If you have one of these then here's how to wire and use it. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Isn't it incredible how much battery technology has advanced. This power bank claims to be rated 9 million mAh and yet it fits in your hand. Eat your heart out Elon. I'd like to correct one of the computations I made on the Kink Palculator. I was a mere three decimal places off, so I regret that a full charge of this power bank will only power your Tesla car for part of a day and not a year. But you can probably fit quite a lot of them in the glove compartment for long trips. It's also apparently twice the capacity of a Tesla Power Wall, but with the advantage of fitting conveniently in your pocket so you can charge it at Starbucks and steal all their power. In reality this is just the evolution of rival Chinese sellers on eBay trying to beat each others inflated figures. Their justification is that you might achieve this total capacity with all the recharges over the life of the product. (You won't.) It's worth adding another warning here. Even if these units do have solar panels, do NOT leave them in direct sunlight as it may overheat them and cause the lithium cell to fail dramatically. Aside from not actually being a 9 million mAh power pack, there was an element of disappointment to find that the real cell size could have been at least twice as big. The lithium cell test came in at just over 9,000,000 mAh at 9,000,005 which is pretty good... No not really. 1st cell charge cycle = 2358mAh 2nd cell charge cycle = 2410mAh The chunk of steel that adds reassuring weight to the unit is 70g (2.5oz). If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I made a video about this glitter lamp eight years ago and didn't realise that this lamp has been running 24/7 for eight years! That's over 70,000 hours! Perhaps a good demonstration of the exponential effect of over-driving LED lamps, since this "3W" lamp runs at only 2W and is therefore a lot cooler. It has also operated base-down, which also helps keep the electronic driver a lot cooler. Interestingly, the blue LED had reduced in intensity quite a bit, but the output had also been affected by discolouration of the lens on the surface as a distinct brown ring and a dot in the middle. I'd guess those were the peak focal points of the light. Side by side in series, a new and old LED showed very different beam patterns, with the new one being a strong focal point and the old one have a distinct diffusion pattern with prominent dark rings that tallied up with the lens discolouration. (Brown doesn't pass blue light well.) In this video I fitted a new LED and it restored the red/blue balance well. It takes a surprisingly high specific gravity to support floating mylar glitter in a neutral enough ratio to allow a humble 2W lamp to move it by thermal convection. The specific gravity of the fluid was adjusted literally drip by drip of water to achieve the balance. I have deduced that many glitter lamps may use calcium nitrate as the chemical that creates a high enough specific gravity of fluid to work. But attempts to make similar vials of glitter and liquid have been plagued by the aluminium layer being eaten off the mylar resulting in a lack of glitteriness. The fix for this may be using coated glitter, but that doesn't explain how the re-used glitter lamp fluid hasn't attacked the shiny aluminium layer of the exposed Rosco scenic glitter. Is it a different chemical? Or is there an additive that stops the calcium nitrate corroding the aluminium layer? The glitter I used was a theatre industry glitter supplied by Rosco. I don't know if they still sell this. It is the most extreme glitter I've come across, with an intense sparkle that I've not seen in generic glitters. I think it's because it's pure aluminium coated mylar with no protective coating. It flows like granular liquid mercury in its container. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Whether you should actually use a generic Chinese touch switch is debatable. They don't seem to fully understand electrical isolation much. A version sold by a prominent local supplier is more likely to be built to a safer standard. This module came with four wire nuts, which are rarely used in the UK. The bulk of the work on the PCB is being done by a dedicated chip that is not the typical microcontroller. It has dedicated circuitry including an amplifier and filter for the touch input and timing for the triac driver. The use of a capacitor in series with the triac gate is to keep the power supply simpler, as it results in a short trigger pulse of reasonable current. The data sheet for the chip has extra layers of safety on the touch input, both for the user and the chip. The extra components have been omitted in this design. The timing resistor is an odd value. Possibly a "safe" value for both 50 and 60Hz that ensures the triac trigger points are well within each half sinewave. The triac is very small. Its rating is a surprisingly high 600mA which suggests a typical lamp rating of 60W or much lower with LED lamps due to the high inrush current associated with their circuitry. The most common failure with dimmer modules like this is the triac going short circuit when a lamp fails with a pulse of high current. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I thought it would be worth taking a look at some more recent versions of these. I've had some older ones on test for a while, and they do provide surprisingly useful light on demand in the event of power outages. For a while I had an issue with a failing appliance heater that would randomly trip the main RCD for the whole house (TT system) and these gave very reassuring light when the place was suddenly plunged into darkness. The lithium cell in the small unit has now been tested, and is a miserable 150mAh. The lithium cell from the device I showed does fit, but only barely, and with no room for an adhesive pad to stick it in. Other similar vapour devices may have slimmer lithium cells in them that are easier to fit in. As always, take extreme care when fitting lithium cells, due to their high energy release capabilities. If adding more cells in parallel, make sure their voltages are very close first to minimise current flow as they balance. The electrical tests at 4.2V (fully charged lithium cell) showed that the small unit uses between 7-70mA depending on the intensity setting, and will stay lit for twenty seconds after the last movement is detected. The standby quiescent current is a very good 22uA. I like this style of light a lot. They don't need recharged too often - especially when you boost the capacity a bit, and are perfect little lights for power outages or just late night prowling around the house. Keywords to find this type of light on eBay are:- USB rechargeable PIR light Typical cost should be around £$€5 for the small one. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=usb+rechargeable+pir+light&_sacat=0&_sop=15 Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

I'm not sure where Ralfy has been storing this heater. The contacts and the plug pins were heavily oxidised. That makes a refreshing change from him restricting airflow and wrecking thermal trips and fuses. (My brother Ralfy and I are polar opposites in every way. He's not technical at all.) The thermal cutouts in these cheap heaters are not rated for many cycles. They have tiny cheap contacts that are expected to break up to 8 Amps in use, and often fail after a few operations. Often arcing enough to trip themselves repeatedly. It is very important not to bridge out the thermal fuses in these products despite the temptation of an instant fix with the fuse being fitted later (it often never happens). The next stage of failure after the bimetallic trips fail in a welded state is generally complete meltdown, and 2kW in a plastic shell doesn't end well. The tarnishing of the cheap contacts is a sad byproduct of people "investing" in important electrical metals like copper and silver, driving the cost up and resulting in the use of cheap alloys that result in early failure. The paper strip trick for cleaning contacts is ancient. You can still buy packs of contact cleaning strips that are very slightly abrasive and impregnated with an oil that protects the contacts from further oxidation. Do not use coarse files on contacts as it can remove important contact layers. Note that it is sometimes easier and safer to just buy a new product when attempting to repair cheap disposable junk like these heaters. You can get better made heaters at higher cost that will last longer and are built to a safer standard. As mentioned in the video, always be aware of whether things are plugged in when you are working on them. It's very common for people repairing home appliances to accidentally leave the device plugged in after testing or unplug the wrong appliance. The more tests you make, the higher the odds of you accidentally leaving it plugged in. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

Such an odd thing. Very similar circuitry to a classic needle ioniser, but uses a long linear emitter wire instead. The circuitry has a nice soviet feel to it, with very chunky Russian components that seem a bit retro compared to UK ionisers from the same era. Ionisers are blighted by a history of bad marketing that makes bold claims of being "air vitamins", and implies that the units will resolve many health conditions. In reality, the main function of ionisers is to put a charge of electrons into the air like static electricity, causing airborne contaminants to precipitate to grounded surfaces like walls and floors. The classic desktop ioniser makes a huge mess due to the contaminants in the air settling in its vicinity. Many people stop using them because of the apparent mess they make, without realising that it's there because the unit is doing its job. They are best suited to smaller areas with low air throughput, are silent and use such a low amount of power that they effectively cost nothing to run. I'd guess one of the main advantages of the Ryazan 101 ioniser is that it's long emitter is far enough away from walls to precipitate that dust out in a more subtle manner. Incidentally, the ioniser PCB of my own that I showed is now a free PCB at JLCPCB (Not a sponsor.) Note that it is only suitable for 220-240V countries though. https://jlcpcb.store/products/jlcpcb-free-pcb-design-chizhevsky-ioniser-by-bigclivedotcom It seems appropriate to mention it here since it was inspired by the Chizevsky ioniser and can be used as the power supply for the "Russian Nuclear Corporation" ozone generator. (Produces very low levels of indoor ozone that emulate natural outdoor levels.) Chizhevsky project:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLB2UUQ35J0 Russian Nuclear Corporation project:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoN_EYtSuio If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

During a live stream I was demonstrating this igniter unit and waved it back and forth vigorously to show how the spark changed. Then it suddenly stopped working with the green "charged" LED lit. The circuitry is interesting, but quirky, and has some weird features like a MOSFET that bypasses the power switch to activate the microcontroller while it's charging, purely to light the charge status LEDs. It appears that the generous arc length may have been part of the issue. When I was playing with it after the fix I managed to push the arc length a bit too far (again) and the transformer flashed over internally. When that happens the only fix is a new transformer. The live streams mentioned in the video are on another channel called BigCliveLive - but be aware that it's more of an informal online pub-meet of technical people and the chat can go a bit weird at times. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

I've never really investigated cell balancing too much, so I got a two cell protection and balancing board to explore. The module has three distinct circuitry sections. A two cell protection circuit with charge/discharge MOSFETs to protect against overcharge and over discharge of the cells, where the first cell to reach 4.25V while charging or 2.5V while discharging disconnects the cells from the charger or load. The other two sections are completely separate and work to bypass low level current across a fully charged cell to allow the other to keep charging. It's really important to note that the balancing must be done at low current - less than 60mA in this case. A higher current can still overcharge the cells. The balancing concept is very simple. When a cell reaches 4.2V a MOSFET clamps a resistor across it to prevent the cell voltage from increasing further. That allows current to keep flowing in the circuit to keep topping the other cell up until it also reaches its full charge. The MOSFET turns back off when the voltage drops back down to 4.19V. The charge current shouldn't exceed the level where the voltage across the bypass resistor can exceed the upper threshold voltage of the cell, as otherwise it will keep charging it until the protection kicks in at 4.25V. It means the charger will have to be limiting the current as the voltage nears roughly 4V per cell. My thoughts of using an over-simplified three wire charging system would involve the cell protection circuit cutting in when the first cell reached its upper cutoff threshold and then trickling current through the cells directly to allow the balancing circuit to match the voltages. Not ideal, but a lot simpler than a sophisticated charger. The resistor could not be left in circuit for normal use as it bypasses the protection MOSFETs. A nicer system, and probably the correct one, would just involve the charger putting out marginally above 4.2V per cell, with a series resistor to limit the current progressively as the pack charged to allow the balancing system to do its job. These are just random thoughts and not intended as a guide to the correct way of using this module. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

Although this USB rechargeable strobe is probably intended for bikes, this could also be used as a warning beacon for other purposes. Note that it has a very small rechargeable lithium cell in it, so it's not really going to be very useful for 24 of its 31 modes, but the short duration double pulse modes in 7 colours should have a decent run time on a charge. Yeah, that's 31 modes! And you're gonna have to mince through them ALL to get to the one you want. But fortunately it holds the last choice in memory. A long press turns it on and off, while short presses step through all the modes, which are:- Low current short double strobe in white Flashing in white Static white Then the same again for red, green, blue, yellow, magenta and cyan. Double white flash and single red flash. Double flash sequencing through all colours. Slower double flash sequencing through all colours. SOSOSOSO (SOS?) in white, red, green, blue, yellow, magenta or cyan. The keywords to find this type of light on eBay are:- 7 colors usb strobe Reference price is 3 to 5 £$€. The lithium cell has a capacity of around 35mAh as opposed to the 90mAh stated in the data sheet. It charges at a squirmy 10C (350mA). The case is not waterproof, so moisture will inevitable creep in when used outdoors and potentially cause corrosion. The circuitry is very typical of this style of unit, with the classic SOT23 charge chip and ubiquitous 8 pin microcontroller. The use of A2SHB MOSFETs is nice. The module itself would be useful for pairing with a larger lithium cell. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I bought three different flame effect PTC style "miracle heaters". Two turned out to be the same style despite having different listing pictures, and this one (which cost the same!) turned out to be somewhat less complex (huge understatement). I think the best way to avoid this heater is to make sure you buy one with a remote control. This one does work, but is perhaps a bit simplistic compared to the others. It is totally scavengable though, with a pretty good flame effect and useful heater section that could also be a source of resistance wire for custom heating elements. It's notable that the rotating mirrored mylar blades give a great scaled down Star Trek warp-core effect if used with blue LEDs. This unit is freestanding with a thin flex of unknown electrical integrity, but I think we can safely assume that it will be the crappiest copper coated aluminium type stuff. It's also easy to knock over, so that thermal fuse and plastic front grill may be tested at some point. The schematic does bear a strong resemblance to a hair dryer with extra effects, and that is kinda because it is... If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I've always wanted to explore one of the classic American Peet boot dryers, but they never seemed to do a version for 220-240V countries. While having a random browse for similar items I came across a single eBay listing for just one item and bought it to explore. The box came in a brown paper Amazon bag, but when I searched for the item it was shown as not being available. It's interesting that this unit claims to be "the original". So which came first? The American-made Peet unit or this one? The Peet-style units are quite neat in that they rely purely on warm air convection to warm boots or shoes and carry the humid air out. As such they are silent, but much slower than forced air versions. However, this also has the advantage of not overheating the footwear and damaging it. The heater assembly is refreshingly simple with most of the structure being an aluminium shroud to protect the plastic pipes from heat damage. At the base a metal pin passes through holes in the aluminium shroud and then goes into a groove at each side and is locked in place by fins on the plastic cover. I'd guess that the heater assembly and plastic boot supports have evolved with time. The heat source is two ceramic 700 ohm resistors with a power rating of 25W. In the UK they are wired in series meaning there is 120V across each resistor. That calculates as a current of I=V/R I=120V/700ohm I=170mA Power dissipation per resistor is P=IV P=0.17A*120V P=20.4W In 100-120V countries the same 700 ohm resistors could be wired in parallel or two 330ohm or 390ohm resistors could be used in series. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

The Neosocket is a fake fuel saver that has been doing the rounds for a very long time under various other names. It's a scam product that makes bold claims of 10 to 30% fuel savings due to smoothing the power of your vehicle's electrical system. It does contain a token gesture capacitor, but the value is so low in relation to your vehicle's electrical system that it is irrelevant. The other components are basically an LED and more resistors than are needed to make it look more technical. The one redeeming feature of this scam is that the case seems to have been custom designed for it. That's quite impressive for a fake product. Especially the shaped surround for the pointless capacitor and the luxurious translucent dome for the LED. It's supposed to be a blue LED but this cloned version is fitted with a red one - probably because cheap blue LEDs are less reliable than cheap red ones, and they didn't want to refund people for units that stop lighting up, since that's all the thing really does. It's quite amusing that this is one of many fake products that have been cloned en-masse in China, where they will drop-ship them on demand for the new generation of online scammers. (The scammers just send a list of addresses and the Chinese warehouses post them to the customers directly.) Nice case though. It might have other uses. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

A look at a common style of USB Christmas light controller, with some slight hackability. It's very simple, but sadly it doesn't have a memory function to hold the last light setting. It also has a timer function which some people may like, but I don't really care for it, as it messes up the use of these in indoor all-day decorative applications. The string of lights itself is configured with alternate polarity LEDs, which means you can't just use a battery and resistor to run them. It needs the polarity swapped at high speed to make them all look lit continuously. There are manufacturing advantages to this, and possible a reduction in corrosion caused by water ingress too. But it makes it harder to use these lights fully without having that extra polarity reversing circuitry. If you do cut the length down, then note that it uses a three wire system for even intensity along the run. If you cut the string, the loose wire that runs the length will have to be connected to one or the other of the cut end to get the circuit to light. Which wire can be determined by dabbing the loose wire on the other ends. One will shunt the lights and the other will make them light. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

The accountants have clearly had a part in the redesign of the circuitry on this classic Chinese light panel. They are intended for use in ceiling bulkhead fixtures, where the new panel sticks to the steel backplate with magnets. This type of light has no easy way to change a lamp. You will literally have to turn off the power and hook wires into terminal blocks instead. The earlier versions used buck regulators with no flicker, but the new ones have cheaped out in every way possible, creating a very flickery light that has the classic over-driven LEDs. There is no other explanation for this other than profit above all else. Given the LED layout I reckon they have used the original LED positions and tracks, but replaced the original single chip LEDs with multi-chip ones to cater for the higher voltage that is better suited to the linear regulators. That would also explain the rogue track passing under the rectifier. In this video I do several experiments to stop the flicker and reduce the power dissipation to give higher efficiency and a much longer LED life. Note that a lot of the experiments involve live exposed connections, so suitable precautions should be taken if doing similar experiments. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

These seem to be a very common style of component on Aliexpress and sometimes on eBay too. It's a spark ignitor for gas that could be used for cooker, ovens or other applications. Unlike oil igniters or larger scale gas units, it doesn't have a continuous hot spark, but just pulses low current sparks continuously until the gas/air ratio hits the sweet spot and ignition occurs. The design is gloriously simple due to the use of a specialist component designed almost exclusively for generating high current pulses used to drive the transformer assembly. The format of these varies. This one appears to have three separate high voltage secondaries, which raises the intriguing possibility of wiring them in series for a single higher voltage spark. Other versions have a common ground connection and several outputs referenced to that. If desired, the PCB could be removed for driving your own custom transformer or pulse coil. Or alternatively you could take inspiration from its design for your own PCB design. It's a classic circuit. The very high value resistor is a discharge resistor designed to gently discharge the main capacitor to prevent a rogue unexpected spark due to retained charge, or possibly to avoid false triggering due to leakage current on the supply circuit causing the capacitor to gradually charge up until a spark occurs unexpectedly. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

Normally when I buy scam products I know what I'm buying and get them to explore and reverse engineer, but this time I bought what I thought was a non-scam product and it was a completely different product in the case. For those who will inevitable say that I can't hear the ultrasonic sound because it's ultrasonic, you can still often hear clicks from the piezo disk as it changes frequency or resets the sweep. The piezo disk is just a token gesture here, since it would need a resonant cavity to put out any significant ultrasound, but in this case it's just glued in on one edge. It's very clear that the case was originally intended for use as an actual trace ozone generator, but ended up being repurposed badly. Possibly due to a flaw with the original product design. The most interesting bit of the design is the odd half-wave capacitive dropper. I wonder if it was intentional or a fix for a design error. eBay case is open as "not as described" and awaiting seller response. Two pictures were sent. One of the box and label, and a close up of the label. Seller - "It is what it says it is, i have sold many without issues...i do not accept returns and this is stated on ebay. I can give you a partial refund as a good will jester. Alternatively take it up with ebay..Good day" Me - "If you look at your stock then the label clearly states Ultrasonic pest repell , and that is exactly what it is. I've tested it, and it generates no ozone whatsoever. I would like a full refund, and would suggest you change the listing to indicate what the unit actually is." No reply from seller after 5 days, so escalated to a case. Minutes later eBay provided a full refund. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

This is NOT a sponsored video. I bought this light and love it. I was browsing the lights in a local hardware store (Felton's) and saw this light that is very similar to my favourite LED light. Long story short - this one is now my favourite light. It's like the MKII version with many improvements, but still retaining very simple circuitry that can be hacked (as I did ) to nudge the LED power down for longevity of the LED, and also extend the run time from the very generous lithium cell. Everyone has their own preference in flashlights, and in my case it's almost 100% for work illumination. This light is perfect for working on technical equipment. It's lightweight and comfortable, with a beam of light where it's needed and a long run time on a charge. These seem to be a very widely available light, so you shouldn't have any problem finding one locally or online. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

A common online lighting device that generates multiple focussed beams of light that create illuminated lines on surfaces like walls and ceilings. The construction is optimised for the function, including a machined alloy casting. The circuitry is simply two high power LEDs wired in series with a common current regulated power supply. To hack/mod these lights the lenses will need to be removed from either side to gain access to the standard "luxeon star" style LED modules. They are siliconed in at the edges and can be reinstalled using the same adhesive. As with most of these lights, this one is hackable for those living off-grid with a 12V system if you have the extra power available for gimmicky lighting effects. This one came from Aliexpress:- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001456082234.html Shop about to get an idea of a normal price for these. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

Everyone has their own preferences for an LED head torch. Mine is for a focussed beam to point light at a good position for working, but others prefer a wider wash of light. The flexible COB strip is an interesting twist. Other versions seem to have a second circuit with red LEDs for maintaining night vision. I regard head torches as being essential for power outages as it's much more useful to light what you're looking at instead of trying to light a whole room. The circuitry in this light isn't too bad. It's fairly textbook, with a minimal design. My only slight concern is the position of the solder pads for the infrared detection. They are close to the surface of the pouch cell, although they've cropped them short before soldering, so the wires don't protrude much. I've since been sent a picture showing that the solder points can indeed pierce the lithium cell, but in that case it just caused electrolyte leakage corrosion and didn't go far enough to cause a short circuit in the cell. I measured the LED current directly powered at 100% at 4.2V (full charge) and 3V (discharged). Main COB strip @4.2V = 1130mA @3V = 280mA Focussed beam @4.2V = 487mA @3V = 107mA Standby current is too low to measure, but the lack of resistors in series with the status indicator LEDs means they are being driven at 20mA each! They could really have done with a 1K resistor in series with each LED. That also means that when in infrared standby with both LEDs lit the total current is 70mA of which the majority is the red and green status LEDs. During use the lights will start bright, but as the lithium cell discharges the intensity and current will decrease, giving a decent run time. I use a head torch at work a lot, and tend to use it at the lowest intensity that still allows comfortable working, to get the maximum run time between charges. These lights can be found on eBay by searching for either:- All perspectives induction headlamp or night buddy headlamp The cost should be around £$€10. Alternatively you can buy the heavily marketed version for around three times that price. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

I've looked at a few of these before and they all seem to have some weird circuitry twist. This one initially looked almost identical to the blue Aldi unit, but the circuitry has some weird bits that are actually quite clever. What's not clever is the current the LEDs are being run at. With a freshly charged battery the current draw was:- High (2 LEDs lit) 3.8A - 11W Medium (1 LED lit) 3A - 9W Low (other LED lit) 1.6A - 4.8W When the zero-ohm links are removed and replaced with one of the 1 ohm resistors the current drops to:- Both LEDs lit:- 1.75A - 5.25W One LED lit:- 1A - 3W The light output is still very useful, but the light runs much cooler and has a considerably higher run time on a charge. That makes it better suited as a rechargeable light source during these turbulent times. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

You may get Deja-vu from this video, as it's the full length (and horizontal) version of an earlier short. Because China has a huge infrastructure, there are some very cool tools available cheaply from online sites like eBay. This is one of them. It's a schrader valve core changer, but is designed to change the cores under pressure/vacuum in active refrigeration and air conditioning systems. Note that this tool is not intended for changing schrader inserts on car tyres/tires. I'm not sure what size of port they use. This tool accommodates 1/4" and 5/16" valves. The extra side port is for extra functionality, including pulling vacuum or injecting refrigerant with the core removed for speed. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

I've featured the availability of free rechargeable lithium cells from disposable devices often found lying in the street, so I thought I'd show the use of a multiple of those cells to make a power pack that can be used to power lighting or other small loads. It can be charged from a USB charger or a small 5/6V solar panel. The module is a TP4056 lithium charger with extra cell protection. It lets you plug a USB lead straight into the pack to charge it. Very common on eBay and cheap when bought in multiples of 5 or 10pcs. It is intended for standard rechargeable lithium cells often described as being 3.7V cells - which is the mid charge voltage. The full charge voltage is 4.2V and fully discharged is around 2.5 to 3V. When lithium cells are connected in parallel they behave as a single cell. It's important to make sure the cell voltages are very close before connecting them as otherwise high current can flow between them as they attempt to match voltages. Even a 0.1V difference can cause quite high current to flow. The safest way to work on lithium cells is when they are almost fully discharged to around 3V or less. That way, any accidental short circuits will have low energy. Keep in mind that these are energy storage devices, and that the disposable devices for fog inhalation have quite high current cells. They are very popular with model drone enthusiasts as a source of cheap expendable cells. Always take extra care to avoid short circuiting the cells. Cap the wires with tape when needed. It's always useful to have a metal dish on hand in case of little incidents. Pouch cells lack the external armour of cased cells, and should be protected against damage or shorting. In this video I used the module to power a string of LED lights with a suitable resistor in series with them (33 ohm) to limit the current. They will run for over a day on a charge, gradually reducing in brightness until the protection kicks in and they turn off. You could also use the pack to power a small work light or other 3-4V load. The pack can be charged while it's running LEDs, so it can act as a decorative emergency light that stays on during a power blackout. Another approach to this might be to use the original metal tubes to hold two paralleled cells with a suitable connector to the charging module, so one module could be used with multiple power packs. This power pack is ready for solar charging from a 5V solar panel or a 6V one with diode in series. The cells will be charged with whatever current is available from the panel, capped to the maximum current set by the modules programming resistor. Too high a charge voltage will result in extra heat from the charge chip and it may self regulate the current lower. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

This was sent to me by a friend who had been using it for a while, but after refitting it during redecoration it failed catastrophically with sparks. That does make me wonder if something happened during the process that either resulted in ingress of dirt/liquid or a bad connection causing arcing, which can sometimes trigger circuit failure. It would have been nice to go in a bit deeper, but when these things blow up they often cause a chain reaction due to conductive plasma bridging adjacent pads and tracks. That can destroy the evidence of which component initiated the failure. Not helped in this case by a very densely packed PCB with a black silkscreen, making the analysis even harder. I might guess at MOSFET failure with subsequent destruction of current sensing resistors. I'm not a huge fan of built-in electronics. It means that in an instance like this, the densely packed electronics can fail dramatically with the awkwardness of it still being built into the house wiring with no easy way to remove or replace it without electrical skills. For charging USB devices I recommend using good quality plug-in chargers, and better still, plugged into a fused adaptor or extension. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

If this had been a simple fault it would probably have been an easy repair unless the power supply had failed with sooty track carnage. My first thought was that it would have been the usual drying of the secondary side smoothing capacitor, as they are put under a lot of stress by the high frequency of the power supply. In reality it looks like the fault is with the brains of the unit, a classic WiFi enabled processor module. If it's not ESD damage or natural failure, then it could be that the software has been corrupted or that it has been accidentally bricked. Apparently the current draw was acceptable for a running processor, so the possibility of memory corruption is viable. The only way to fix the device would be to use a new ESP module loaded with suitable software. It only seems to use three I/O (Input/Output) lines - the button input, green (?) LED and the transistor for switching the red LED and relay. You could either configure the I/O like for like, or use a loose module with flying wires for I/O and power. For ESP geeks that would be an easy fix, and a golden opportunity to customise the socket with their chosen firmware and features. I thought the issue with LED lamp glow might have been due to a snubber network leaking current across the relay contacts, but it's more likely that it was a polarity issue where neutral was being switched instead of live, and the glow was possibly current capacitively coupling through a grounded LED array with aluminium core PCB. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

This was such a pleasure to reverse engineer because of the unexpected hybrid circuitry that uses a very retro component to control a modern one. And bizarrely, the "retro" component is in a modern surface mount package. A search on Aliexpress found an SMD transistor called P27 which may be a modern variant of the 2N6027. The module is mainly intended to replace traditional indicator flasher relays on cars and trucks with low current LED lights. That said, a parallel resistor may be required across some LED lights to ensure proper operation. 1K (1000 ohms) should be ideal. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

These devices are intended for purifying water by boiling it and then recondensing the steam back into liquid. That removes any solid matter like minerals and salts, giving very pure water for technical uses and for drinking. They're also used for distilling ethanol from sugar washes to make high percentage alcohol for cleaning, fuel, sanitising or drinking in countries where home distillation is allowed. But the primary purpose of distilling water means that these units are less optimal for alcohol use without doing multiple passes. There are dedicated units for that purpose that use much lower power to heat the liquid slower. The wiring in the base is very simple. Live and neutral are both connected to the heating element via thermal cutouts. One is self resetting and one needs to be reset manually with an external button. The reason for the two thermal cutouts is partly built-in safety-redundancy, and also to protect against an element failure where current could flow to the grounded casing and bypass a thermal cutout. The earth/ground wires are connected directly to the case. The output socket for the fan is connected in parallel with the heating element, as is a simple LED indicator with sleeved resistors. In use, the base is filled with the water to be purified, the lid placed on and plugged into its socket, and the start button pressed. (resetting the latching thermal cutout). The water is all boiled into steam, which escapes via the spiral air-cooled tube in the lid, recondensing into water again as it passes through it. Once the bulk of the water has boiled into steam the temperature of the base rises high enough to trip the latching thermal cutout and turns the unit off. This particular unit actually pulls air in across the fins before blowing it out the top. Other seem to do it in the opposite direction. The condensing pipe does not appear to have a vent hole in it as some others do. This means there is less loss of distillate but may result in the distilled liquid coming out in pulses. Distilled water can be used for topping up lead acid batteries, rinsing surfaces without leaving mineral deposits, in steam generators to avoid scale build-up, in smoke fluid to avoid blocking the thin heater tube with minerals, in chemical dilution to avoid adding impurities and many other applications. The unit can be used to desalinate and sterilise sea water for safer drinking. This technique is used on ships for drinking water. Although the unit is not optimised for water/alcohol separation, the resultant distillate can be redistilled to increase its concentration to levels where it can function as a solvent and sanitiser. Given the shortage of suitable sanitising agents when the last pandemic struck, that could be useful as an emergency option. While testing this unit with a batch of water I had a weird issue where the metal plate in the lid that possibly prevents droplets of water going into the inner section of the condenser tube was actually against the end of the tube, resulting in enough pressure to pop the lid off the unit. Slightly bending that plate away from the end of the tube fixed the problem. These units can be found on eBay and other ecommerce sites if you search for the keywords - water distiller. Be aware that there's a wild price range for similar units. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

Note that this only applies to the A1 version. A newer B version may not have this feature, but there will be a way to regulate the heat. After my video showing the circuitry of the Lidl Parkside soldering iron, and how a physical component change could allow the default ferocious 500 Celsius tip temperature to be customised, a few viewers got in touch and described a calibration mode that you can access via the single button on the front. Here's how it seems to work:- Allow the iron to come up to temperature so the LED lights green. To lower the tip temperature, press and hold the button until the LED turns red. Press the button repeatedly with roughly one press per 4 degrees Celsius. During the pressing the LED will light solid green to show that it is registering the presses. When finished, wait for the LED to go red again and then press and hold the button until it goes back to normal mode with the static green LED. To increase the tip temperature, press and hold the button until the LED first turns red and then starts flashing green. Press the button repeatedly with roughly one press per 4 degrees Celsius. During the pressing the LED will light solid green to show that it is registering the presses. When finished, wait for the LED to start flashing green again and then press and hold the button until it goes back to normal mode with the static green LED. Some experimentation may be required, as I got variable results suggesting that button press timing may be critical. (fast presses seem to work best.) I'm not sure if this adjustment is documented somewhere or if someone worked it out by using the "press and hold to see if something happens" trick. Kudos to the person who discovered this. Using this technique can bring the tip temperature down from the default 480/500C to a more suitable tin/lead soldering temperature with about 26 presses in "red" mode. If your iron is "smoking" the solder and making it dark and crusty very quickly, then doing this will extend the life of the bits greatly, and also result in a much faster warm-up time of just 30 seconds. If you go too far and the solder isn't melting correctly (lead free?) you can nudge it up again by entering "green flashing" mode and doing three clicks to nudge it up about 12C at a time as needed. If you have a soldering iron temperature tester, then the unit does seem to respond in real time when in the calibration mode, allowing for the irons thermal inertia. So you can theoretically leave it in calibration mode while nudging the temperature up or down one click at a time before exiting calibration. Let me know if this works for you, noting that later models may change the software or default temperature over time. This version has model number PLSA 20-Li A1 Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

I saw this a while ago and decided to get some to try. It's designed to go into routed channels as a "bendable" LED strip with a separate diffuser section that presses into the routed channel. Not having a router, I used one of my existing 3D printing scripts to make a square frame with rounded edges. What you see in this video is my very first attempt at using the materials, and other than having to refine my LED tape laying techniques, it worked very well for a first try (just 5 minutes to complete). The videos showing this material being used in factories, show them using a pointy tool to help dress the LED tape around bends and corners. For pro users there are two tools for cutting the material. A curved one for the round ends of the routed channels and an angled one for mitres on right angled corners. There appear to be a few sellers of this material on Aliexpress. You buy the material and LED strip separately, but they choose the matching LED colour for you. The combined price is comparable to the rolls of integrated LED neon strip. It was much easier to terminate the wires on this stuff, and unless glue is used it is probably quite easy to repair sections. Here's a link to the listing I bought this tape from:- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003655539629.html Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

This seems appropriate, since there's a current surge in unscrupulous marketers cashing in on the current "fuel crisis" by claiming that this style of heater will heat your whole house for pennies. In reality, a watt is a watt and a 500W heater like this will take four times longer to heat a room than a traditional 2kW heater. Electric heaters are 100% efficient in converting electricity to heat, but the cost of electricity makes them less economical to run than some other heat sources. However, if you don't use a lot of heat then you also have to factor in the other costs of things like oil and gas heating, like annual inspections and servicing. I do use an electric heater for a heat boost at times during the winter, but generally have a cool house and use dehumidifiers to keep it dry. If you do wish to reduce your heating costs than a good compromise is to reduce the temperature in your home to a level that protects pipework, and wear warmer clothing. If you live alone then one of the best things for winter is a quilted/padded boilersuit/coverall, as it's basically a wearable duvet. That's why so many farmers wear them in winter. An alternative is to heat your home at low level and then use local heating in a single room for extra warmth. With current fuel costs (due to greed and politics) it may also be worth looking for areas of heat loss like uninsulated attics and bad door and window seals. In rural areas it's also worth rediscovering solid fuel burners like log stoves for converting an abundance of fallen tree branches into free, and very toasty heat. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

Slightly weird circuitry. This took longer to reverse engineer than expected, but yielded new information on the thermal sensing of Hakko-style soldering irons. The default temperature of 500C (932F) is quite dramatic for a soldering iron, but there is a way to hack it to a lower temperature if desired. The circuitry is a bit weird, in that the main control chip may have a stand-alone comparator section, but also monitor its activity externally and override it to shut the iron down. At least, that's my first guess at what's happening. Alternatively it could be ensuring the MOSFET is forced off in sleep mode, although the sleep current draw is very low at about 1uA. The hack to set a lower bit temperature or allow it to be adjusted is to remove the zero ohm link shown and either solder a fixed value resistor in the two outer holes of the bypassed preset position, or put in a 100 ohm multi-turn preset. If using a single turn potentiometer I'd suggest a value of 56 ohms. I tested with various resistors and got the following results:- Existing zero ohm link 500C. 10 ohms 460C 22 ohms 410C 33 ohms 360C - common standard electronic soldering temperature. 47 ohms 315C 56 ohms 277C 100 ohms 77C The construction of the soldering iron seems quite robust, and the default bit temperature will probably make it ideal for automotive wire repairs or fast soldering. The iron wins lots of points for using the very common soldering iron bit sold in bulk on eBay. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

A complete teardown of a desiccant drum dehumidifier, just in case you wondered what's inside one. These are an interesting alternative to the classic compressor based units. They are much quieter and will perform very well at low temperature. They put out a continuous stream of warm dry air, which is useful in winter. I've never tested the efficiency of one of these next to a compressor one, but I use both. Compressor in the warmer part of the year and desiccant in the colder months. Don't mix this unit up with the mini peltier based units. This type is massively more efficient. The water sump is prone to gunking up in these due to the use of a slight water-trap to avoid loss of the hot air being circulated through the condenser. The other section of the sump I didn't mention is for a drip pipe from the hot air circulator fan housing. This technology is still relatively young, and they have an early history of heater failures. They seem to be evolving with time though, and are much more reliable. I tend to operate mine at the low power setting (300W) which also has a noise and efficiency advantage. It's worth mentioning an unusual quirk that these dehumidifiers have. The drum absorbs natural odours from the environment and when the unit starts up it can create a sudden amplified burst of the odour. Sometimes that can make a musty smell, but it's just a brief burst on each cycle. The conspiracy Karens have done their usual thing and claimed that the zeolite drum is a form of asbestos. It's not. It's a different mineral completely and is not known to pose any risk. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

There's something VERY suspicious about this fake fuel saving product. Why would they use analogue circuitry to turn a microcontroller on and off? This is a fake OBD engine optimiser which incorporates rogue network interface circuitry with the usual pretend network activity LEDs, but it uses an on/off button that could have used a spare I/O pin on the microcontroller, but instead fudges it with transistors. That makes me wonder if the design was done by someone who used existing software, but didn't have the knowledge to customise it or rewrite it from scratch. It's not complex software at all. Even in raw assembly code it's just a sequence of bit toggling, loops and delays. It's easily a days work to write and fine tune the software from scratch. The use of a double sided PCB with fake tracks leading to hidden through holes is pretty devious. It cast enough doubt into my mind to make me desolder components to confirm that the tracks were indeed hidden dead-ends. Pretty devious. But the reverse engineering was aided admirably by rum and cream soda. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

I'd guess this product is sold under different brands around the world. It's got a nice case that could work well for many projects, but the original effect is excruciatingly dire and very repetitive. I tested it with a bigger speaker hoping for some extra bass, but there's none. It's all screechy treble. If you want to use this, then I'd suggest replacing the 51 ohm LED resistor with an 18 ohm one. That will give about 20mA per LED which will at least double the intensity. Disconnecting the excruciatingly trebly speaker will allow the unit to be used for a repetitive lightning flicker effect without sound. Swapping the LEDs for a colour of your choice and just hotwiring the battery pack to them via the switch and a 24 ohm (or higher) resistor will allow the unit to be used as a simple standalone spotlight. The only good reason to buy this thing is the case with integrated battery pack and reflector. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

As designs go, this has to be the laziest and cheapest fake engine tuner plug there is. Most of these units try to look convincing by emulating data transfer with flickering LEDs, but this one has just one flashing LED with circuitry that hints that the designers didn't even know basic electronics. Worse still, this unit manages to pass almost 20mA of current continuously to light its LEDs, that may not even be visible through the badly designed case. That current is significant for a vehicle that doesn't get used a lot. These units pretend to interface with your cars control computer via the OBD (On Board Diagnostics) port normally used by mechanics to analyse vehicle faults. They claim that the unit learns your driving behaviour and fine tunes the engine settings for maximum efficiency and power. In reality while there are real units for very specific vehicles, these units just put on a light show and rely on the buyer to convince themselves that they feel a performance difference. In some instances these units can have faults that actually interfere with your vehicles data networks and that can result in your car malfunctioning while the unit is plugged in. Don't waste your money. If you really want to save fuel, try to adjust your driving style to avoid excessive acceleration and braking (hard braking is wasted energy), and avoid trying to accelerate uphill as that poses the highest strain on an engine. On a plus note, the case could be useful for your own OBD projects to utilise the permanent 12V available at the socket. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

I got this unit a very long time ago. I think it was being sold by one of the surplus companies that advertised in electronics magazines. The design is very simple. A mains voltage synchronous motor with no gearbox, and a custom plastic component that couples it loosely to a metal bar with a magnet at each end. The loose coupling is to avoid loading the motor at start-up as synchronous motors are quite weak when starting up. I wonder why the units were being sold off. Maybe because it has a slight tendency to lose the spinner in the jar and make loud rattling noises. The concept is useful to know though, as magnetic coupling has many uses where you wish to induce rotation in a liquid without worrying about a liquid tight seal. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

The circuity on this solar rock light had a few weird features that took me a long time to suss out. They're good features though - especially the polarity protection on the changeable lithium cell. There's also an option on the PCB to replace that with a link for hard wired cells. The charge control chip is unusual in that it also has a dusk sensor function. A brief search on the 'net didn't find any data on it. But it will basically monitor the cell voltage to protect it against overcharge and low voltage. Unusually, it doesn't have the common resistor/capacitor filter for stable voltage monitoring that many similar devices have. It's a pretty good design with some thoughtful features like the reverse cell protection. That suggests that they may be actively encouraging the replacement of the cell if needed for product longevity. Or it might just be to protect against accidental cell polarity incidents at the factory. For indoor use it would be viable to add your own TP4056 module for USB recharging. Another worthy mod would be to replace the cool white LED with a warm white one for a gentler glow. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

Since I really like this light (featured in a different video) I thought I'd make sure it's not going to succumb to damage from water ingress. It's the biggest destroyer of solar garden lights, and a little bit of waterproofing could make them last many times longer than they normally would. For the PCB and where connections are close together I recommend a clear lacquer like cheap nail varnish. It's very easy to apply with the included brush. The switches in these units are notorious for corroding inside, so bridging them out with a blob of solder will prevent that from being an issue. The waterproofing of the solar panel itself is often the trickiest bit. On some panels a bit of water wicking along the edge can cause electrolytic corrosion that gradually eats away at conductive layers over time. Another common point of corrosion is the terminals of the LED. They are often made of coated steel and corrode readily, aided by their close vicinity. A blob of lacquer or grease will block the water from sitting in that area. The main issue with the batteries is corroded terminals. Smearing them liberally with grease will prevent that by excluding water and air. If you really squish it around the positive pip end it will also prevent the conductive schmoo forming between the anode and cathode of the battery case where they are close together. Doing these things will have a huge impact on the life of your lights. Other things for the future are to note that you can solder in some new LEDs if you wish, and the batteries do gradually fail due to the high number of charge/discharge cycles they get. With AA or AAA NiMh (Nickel Metal Hydride) cells you can just swap in a new one. It doesn't have to be an expensive one - dollar store rechargeables are fine as the capacity doesn't have to be high and self-discharge is less of an issue with daily charge/discharge cycles. For the true geek you can also change the inductor to get higher or lower intensity/run-time. Generally using lower values like 47uH will result in higher intensity, while 220uH or higher reduces the intensity, but results in much longer run time. Ideal for low sunlight applications. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

On his travels around the world, Vince the crew chief kindly bought me a suitably shady looking death-daptor to examine. The first and strangest fail was the wrongly colour coded pins. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

I thought it would be interesting to compare three different power ratings of lamps from the same brand. These lamps came from a retail outlet called One Below, which is the reincarnation of Pound World. The 13W lamp was slightly more expensive than the others. The circuitry is very typical of how non-dimmable LED lamps have standardised. They've chosen the very simple linear regulator approach, where as much voltage is dropped across the LEDs as possible, and the difference between that and the peak mains voltage (which the capacitor will charge to) is then dropped across the linear regulator chip and dissipated as heat. That may sound inefficient, but in reality it's a very simple and reliable way to regulate the LED current. The current through the LEDs is set by a programming resistor which is chosen to have a voltage of around 0.6V across it at the desired LED current. Increasing the value of that resistor reduces the current. Whereas many lamps use two resistors in parallel to fine-tune the current, these lamps have just a single resistor per regulator, which makes hacking them slightly harder as it involves replacing the original sense resistor with a new one, and that is made harder by the aluminium core PCB sucking heat away from the soldering equipment. Theoretically, the 13W lamp can be hacked to half the power by just removing the sense resistor on one of the two regulators. One of the best things about these lamps is that you can replace the diffusers with 3D printed versions in any shape and size you desire. But only after reducing the output power. At very low power levels this can make for some very attractive decorative lamps. Here's a video about the custom lamp cover mod:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZKu9QMN5xw Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

The refreshing design of this solar light from Pound Stretcher is inspiring. It makes you realise that you can do so much more with a simple solar garden light. From the way it sheds water to the nice little extra features, it seems like someone really wanted to create something different. As usual with mass produced items it will benefit from a bit of extra waterproofing. That would include bridging the switch so it's on all the time (the switches are mainly for protecting the cell from over-discharge during shipping, and corrode easily), painting the PCB with a conformal coating like clear nail varnish and applying some vaseline to the battery terminals to exclude air and water from causing corrosion. The real treasure of this light is that it makes you think outwith the normal concept of a solar light. You could create quite detailed illuminated structures to add appeal to your solar lighting. Especially when used indoors on a window sill. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

As we enter the last third of the year, which is one continuous Halloween and Christmas season, the local pound shops (UK dollar stores) have started introducing their seasonal stock. In this case it includes this lovely LED string USB charging cable with an exciting new approach to driving LEDs. It's interesting to note that while these came from One Below, they're echoing the equally disastrous version sold by Poundland in previous years. If you buy these lights, do it for the caps alone. They're easy to remove once the LEDs have melted the glue! It's intriguing that the LEDs initially survived, but after some use their current dropped notably due to internal degradation. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

I've often explored the pumps, but I don't think I've taken a snow machine blower assembly apart. I've experimented with snow fluids in the past - with both shampoo, bubble bath and surfactants (Surface Active Agents - they're the chemicals that make water foamy). The manufacturers are very cryptic about their ingredients, but the main one is water with a very tiny percentage of surfactant. The best formulas will give a very light fluffy snow effect, while a simple surfactant/water mix may result in a wetter, heavier snow. It's possible that some manufacturers add a more volatile element like isopropanol to the water to accelerate evaporation of the water from the foam. It's possible that the use of distilled water has an advantage over tap/faucet water, as the impurities may reduce the foam. Especially salts. I don't recommend storing snow fluid for long periods of time for hygiene reasons as it lacks the sterile fluid and inherent pasteurising effect of a fog machine. One of the best results I got was using benzalkonium chloride - a surfactant that is also used as a sanitiser, but the result was also very unpleasant to breathe. That does suggest that the choice of surfactant is very important in creating the best effect. It's a shame the benzalkonium chloride was so unpleasant to breathe as it would also have made the fluid very sterile. Less surfactant is better. Typically just 1%. Too much and the foam can hang about too long and pose a slip hazard. It's also better using a low concentration to make it more skin-friendly. Some commercial applications that use a lot of fake snow use foam concentrate for dilution with water. It's probably just a pure surfactant. The blower motor is a centrifugal type with a universal motor for high torque and speed. In a snow machine it should get decent cooling airflow. The biggest factor in reliability of the motor is probably the vicinity of soapy water. That's definitely the bit that clogs and corrodes the pump. Especially when the machines are stored for long periods of time. The pumps are easy to source on eBay due to their use in many different FX machines. The fabric sock has the feel of a synthetic polyester fabric. It is normally held on the output nozzle with a cable tie. The "foam party" machines often use a tubular sock, but the tapered nature of the snow sock is possibly to compensate for the airflow pattern from the outer foam stripping holes. Some companies use these core blower modules on the front of larger fans for better snow dispersion. It's notable that the blower is ungrounded and in a plastic housing. Probably to reduce the risk of tracking and rogue RCD/GFCI tripping caused by the inevitable water ingress. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

The science involved in this unit is extraordinary. A lot of development and fine tuning must have been involved to create the correct flow and meniscus generation to create the continuous stream of tiny bubbles without any liquid getting down into the air blower section. I've just realised that the unit has a closed liquid loop, so it is actually using negative pressure to pull excess liquid back down to the reservoir. I really don't recommend taking these to bits, as there are a lot of parts that go together in a very specific way. It's one of the most frustrating rebuilds I've done after a teardown video. (I normally rebuild the things I take apart.) On a plus note there was no glue involved in the construction at all. This unit came from ASDA in the UK, which tends to stock similar stuff to Walmart. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

Thumbnail changed from "dead" to "fried" to respect the passing of Her Majesty the Queen. It may take a while to go through the system as it was released before the news. This unit has a very perplexing design. It seems like the designer copied many protective elements from other designs, but then failed to apply the same concept to their own output. The PTC self-resetting overcurrent thermistor and clamp diode approach is common on better designed DMX devices, as it protects the data inputs from rogue voltages. The same sort of rogue voltage that might occur from a logic level data output that is in the direct vicinity of much higher voltage pads. All it took was someone accidentally bridging two pads with a whisker of wire or solder, to completely destroy the unit instantly. Specifically destroying a custom programmed microcontroller with no easy replacement. Inputs and outputs that interface with the real world should be protected from rogue external voltages. Even a simple resistor on the output of this unit could have limited fault current to a level where the output circuitry was protected. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

DMX is a very common lighting control network in the event industry. It was originally designed to reduce the amount of wiring in dimmer racks from one wire per dimmer to just a single twisted pair for up to 512 dimmer channels. As the lighting industry evolved to automated lights it was then used to control lights with multiple channels used for things like pan, tilt and colour. A more recent variant is RDM (Remote Device Management) which is backwards compatible with DMX, but adds bidirectional communication so that you can communicate with lights and get responses back. This allows things like remote setup and addressing, and also fault reporting. This device is a bluetooth interface for DMX/RDM lighting networks that lets you use an app on your phone to test and program lights whether they be on the test bench or in a rig. It's not a cheap device, because it's a very valuable tool to professional lighting technicians in the same way as good OBD units are a valuable tool to vehicle mechanics. The DMX-cat is a popular choice for lighting technicians, and is used my myself and most of my colleagues at work. The app has a huge integrated library of the most common lights in the industry to make life a lot easier by providing a suitable control interface for each light or control module. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

I feel guilty making a video about this sensibly designed system that paints it in a bad light, but we've had a pretty rough time with these units on a show that uses these in mobile risers (podiums) with video floors that the performers stand on, side RGB LED channels, RGB under-glow lighting and three costumes with 150 channels of DMX controlled addressable LEDs. Even with external aerials on top of the risers positioned away from the metal structure, and many attempts at finding an optimum location for the multiverse transmitters that take a data feed and transmit the required number of lighting control networks, we have had very patchy results. There's a good chance that this is due to the awkward outdoor RF environment with lots of moving bodies to block the RF signal, and a metal stadium structure that doesn't lend itself well to bouncing the signal to improve its reach. But whereas previous systems like the excellent Astera Titan Tubes performed well with nothing more than an occasional delayed response when they struggled to get a solid signal, these units have done very un-showbiz things like crashing or failing to reconnect to the signal. That's resulted in missing the DMX video server trigger signals and sections of lighting either jumping through fades or locking up completely. There's a good chance that these units will fare much better in an indoor environment with nice RF reflective walls, but they really need to tweak their software to make them reconnect properly in the instance of signal loss. Hopefully the firmware (which we updated) will evolve with time and the bugs will be ironed out. Most of the lighting crew use City Theatrical test equipment (DMX-cats) and their DMX dimmers perform well, so hopefully this is just an issue that was more visible due to our less than ideal outdoor stadium. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

There were probably better and safer options, but as a young electrician I couldn't justify one of the professional units. The surprising thing is that, forty years later the same simple technology is still used in many other modern units. The reference to "West Germany" is also a reminder of the Berlin wall that divided the country in that era. This tester served me well for doing final safety checks on stuff I had disconnected or been assured was isolated. The only aspect of the technology that appears to have changed is the form of the current limiting component and the efficiency of the LEDs. Modern Chinese clones tend to use an extra fixed value resistor as an extra safety device. This type of tester still has its place. The behaviour of the LEDs gives an indication of the voltage, they load the circuit slightly to avoid detecting capacitive leakage and they require no battery to operate. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

This falls into the category of being one of those gimmick tools that you get because it might come in handy someday. It wouldn't surprise me if it was originally one of their "special offer" things with suitable marketing hype. It definitely has a purpose though, as it's easy to pick up and instantly do a continuity test on a fuse or lamp without messing about with dials and leads of a multimeter. The circuitry is basic, but also quite pleasing because it uses a Darlington transistor that hints at the modern continuity testing screwdrivers that are still sold. The Darlington transistors are a precursor to the modern super high gain MOSFETs, but inherently much more resilient to electrostatic damage. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

The original Simon game was one of the first to use a microcontroller. This much smaller pocket version is following that up with a more modern microcontroller and not much else. The microcontroller used in this design appears to be a trsp5080a made by Tritan Technology, and incorporates a speech/sound replay facility that is used for sound effects. The chip is probably an OTP (One Time Programmable) version for cost optimisation. I'd guess this chip is intended for use in toys and greetings cards. The circuitry is notable for not having any resistors, with the LEDs being driven directly from the microcontroller pins, and the input buttons are based on conductive rubber pads being pressed across tracks. The buttons are interesting because of the way they attach to the PCB. Each silicone rubber dome has two pins with a narrow and wide section along their length. The narrow end is placed through a hole in the PCB, and then the wider section is pulled through the hole to grip onto it. It's an attachment system that works well. The game itself has the same weakness that many others have, in that it doesn't get progressively faster in its replay of the button sequence. That means the game gets progressively slower to play as the colour sequence increases in length. This game came from One Below in the UK. It could form the base module for a scaled up version of the game with PNP transistors used to drive larger LEDs. (The outputs pull low to turn the LEDs on.) The buttons pull the inputs high, so for extending wire length to larger buttons an extra pull-down resistor might be required. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

This is a very minimalist controller for WS2811 and WS2812B style addressable LEDs. It lets you choose an effect and speed, and will then run that effect whenever powered. Basically a fit-and-forget LED controller that could be ideal for signage, effects and costumes. Although most of the dirty work is done by a microcontroller, the support circuitry is quite interesting, largely because of the use of a discrete voltage regulator. The module will run from 5V to 24V. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

Well of course we can. Here's how to do it. Note the "15 year life" is based on 2.7 hours a day, so actually 15,000 hour life, or more likely until you lose the receipt. But with this hack 15 actual years is possible, as it reduces the LED power dissipation and therefore heat significantly. Intensity will be slightly lower, but still very acceptable. Very typical design, suggesting a "name brand" being applied to a generic lamp. But sensible and familiar circuitry that is easy to tweak. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

These seem to be pretty common on eBay, so I got one to take to bits. The circuitry is quite evolved, with a microcontroller controlling both the ultrasonic atomiser disk and also a boost circuit for stepping the voltage up. There are locations on the PCB for extra filtering, that have been bridged by zero ohm links. I'd guess the designer wanted to keep their options open. That's also reflected in the extra LED position, allowing the PCB to illuminate a water container directly. I'd guess this PCB may find its way into other products too. Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams. https://www.patreon.com/bigclive #ElectronicsCreators

Internally this charger looks like a tiny implementation of a QI inductive phone charger, which makes sense. The main chip is triggering strong Deja Vu from a previous exploration of a standard QI charger. The investigation was thwarted by the mystery chip, which may be a microcontroller or may be an ASIC (Application Specific Integrated Circuit.) My guess is a microcontroller with dedicated inductive charging functionality. That said, the circuitry is interesting, and a useful reference for future designs. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts for a more relaxing viewing experience. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. The Patreon support keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

I can only guess that the unusual circuitry in what would otherwise be a typical linear current regulated LED lamp is to tick a box for European requirements. It's using a separate current regulator on the capacitor to soften the current peak at the top of the sinewave. Probably to fudge a slightly better power factor. I'm not sure what the voltage divider is monitoring. The addition of a high speed diode in series with the bridge rectifier output is perplexing. Is it some odd attempt at adding faster reverse recovery to the rectifier? At 50/60Hz it doesn't seem like it's needed. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts for a more relaxing viewing experience. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. The Patreon support keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

A very simple device. I've never really considered that LCDs have an accurate threshold voltage at which a segment will change state. I get the feeling this display has a higher voltage than average. The use of printed resistors is an interesting evolution from the traditional surface mount ones. I suppose that a variation in carbon ink thickness isn't too critical as it still results in an equally scaled voltage divider. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts for a more relaxing viewing experience. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. The Patreon support keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

This is a very standard door entry system voice unit that is often found in the main door button panel of door entry systems in the UK. The Bell System units are the most popular in the UK, and when you look at the circuitry in them it becomes clear why. The design is simple, but clever and has good protection against short circuits and installer error. This module is the main part that deals with amplifying audio from the built in visitors microphone and also the microphone output from each flat/apartment's phone. There is a separate video showing the circuitry in the version 5 phone here:- https://youtu.be/VkBDStN5Nmo I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts for a more relaxing viewing experience. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. The Patreon support keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

This brand of door entry system is probably the most popular in the UK. It's very simple, but is often installed badly by security companies, so it's useful to understand how it works to fix the legacy problems they create. I'll cover the main door voice unit and button panel in a separate video. In summary, it's basically a simple power supply and a dual amplifier to amplify the local microphone to the common phone speaker buss and also to amplify the incoming common microphone buss for the local speaker. This comes across as a well evolved legacy design that is refreshingly simple, but with lots of clever features. The use of a microcontroller to create the ring-tone was a surprise, but a nice one. The PIC microcontroller literally has just three connections. 0V, 5V and audio signal out. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts for a more relaxing viewing experience. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. The Patreon support keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

I suppose it's a step in the right direction, but there's a good chance that the real reason they added this charging port was to save on battery size and cost. After recording the video I discovered that there were four tiny components under the silicone sleeve around the USB-C charge connector. A decoupling capacitor, two resistors for enabling USB-C charging and a mysterious diode type component with an unreadable number. For the technically inclined, the wires on the liquid reservoir could be extended slightly to facilitate refilling by wiggling the mouthpiece off and sliding out the reservoir to get the cap off for soaking in some more fruity fog juice. Care would have to be taken to avoid running the reservoir dry and burning the wick. The functionality of the chip inside the pressure sensor case is quite high. It not only acts as a current limited charger with voltage cut-off, but also monitors the pressure switch and times the heater activation to avoid excessive run time due to failure or repeated false triggering of the sensor. It can switch high current, possibly with thermal protection. It ramps the LED up with pulse width modulation, and can detect a low battery. It may also detect a shorted heater or associated wiring. Yes I'm being cryptic by saying addiction-stix. The platform doesn't discriminate between technical videos and the ones promoting their use. This content is purely a technical exploration of the circuitry. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts for a more relaxing viewing experience. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. The Patreon support keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

This is a very retro light that uses a high power 3kW xenon projector lamp to blast out a multitude of intense beams of white light that rotate, expand, contract and pan back and forth. It used to be used a lot in the UK to attract attention to outdoor events by firing into the air so that the beams projected onto clouds. The base has two ballasts, a fan, a small transformer, control PCB and the pan motor assembly. It uses a potentiometer on the gear assembly for the pan system to detect position and movement. The DMX data input provides external control over speed of pan, beam rotation, beam expansion and the shutter. You can also set these to fixed values locally. A knob on the control panel lets you set the panning sweep range. In this case the unit was not responsive to most of the pan adjustment range with just a short pan-segment active at the extreme end. After validating the integrity of both potentiometers, and ensuring that the main detection one was being used within its range, I noticed that the pan adjustment knob's connector had a calibration pot associated with it that was set at an extreme position. After noting the original position I adjusted it back slightly and the pan segment size increased accordingly. At the point the knob had full control and the pan was stopping just short of its end stop, the calibration pot was dead centre. I wonder if someone had screwed the calibration pot to an extreme position while trying to find another fault, or maybe done it deliberately to restrict the pan angle for some unknown reason. There were other signs of "unusual" repairs, including replacing a four way dip switch with a 12 way one wrapped in tape and mounted on the PCB at an angle to clear other components. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts for a more relaxing viewing experience. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. The Patreon support keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

I was trying to make this video quickly before travelling with work, so there are a couple of rogue slip-ups. I'm not sure why I managed to say the LEDs were in parallel when in reality there are a large number of LEDs in series per section (which to be fair are then wired as three sections in parallel). Each LED has two chunky LED chips in them. I also said the big light was 100W when it's rated at 300W as shown in the tests. These lights are both from eBay. They're based on the very common linear regulator chips with no smoothing that results in significant flicker. Not a huge issue for ambient illumination, but it does show on fast moving objects. Not something you'd want to work under for a long time. I'll guess the name "mine light" implies it being a waterproof and potentially explosion proof light, but the availability on eBay voids all serious industrial use. Two sizes are available with multiple usage variations. A large 300W unit and a smaller 100W unit. Both have hexagonal cases that can be joined together in a honeycomb grid. The mounting options are a wall bracket, street light pole bracket and chain suspension. You may find them if you search for 300W LED street light. The power rating is so high that you can feel the heat radiated with the light. They can be doobied to reduce the power by putting a capacitor in series. The capacitor will need a parallel discharge resistor for safety. Running these at full power will probably yield low lifespan, as the LEDs are being run quite hot. Visually, these lights are quite stylish and appealing, but will not be suitable for use as video lights. Their ideal location might be an outdoor barn or yard. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

I get the feeling that this listing was used without realising that it was for a different type of product. The 3m induction sensing range only works when a 3m stick is used to push the button. This was a cheap light, and I was intrigued to see the circuitry associated with the sensing. It turns out there isn't any. Interestingly, most of the negative feedback comments were about it being shipped as a UK night light, but actually having an incompatible plug. The one redeeming feature of this unit is that it does use multi-chip LEDs for greater efficiency. That reduces the voltage dropped across the resistor, and increases the light output significantly from the low current necessitated by the use of a simple resistive dropper. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts for a more relaxed viewing experience. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. The Patreon support keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

These lampholders are designed to disconnect power to the lamp contacts when the lamp is removed. It's to prevent kids getting a shock from an open lamp holder. Thankfully eBay, wish and amazon have addressed this by supplying lamps with live connections all over the outside. This one had failed in manner that caused random arcing and flickering of the lamp. I thought it would be interesting to see what had failed, and the general internal construction of the holder. It's worth noting that modern lamps pose much less thermal stress on traditional lamp holders. But it wouldn't surprise me if they start making cost-optimised "LED-only" lamp holders. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts for a relaxed viewing experience. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. The Patreon support keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

These lights are absolutely worth buying just for the caps, as they can be used with many other LED strings. They'd be really nice as illuminated baubles when added to an existing light string on a Christmas (or Halloween) tree. The driver is functional, but doesn't drive the LEDs at a very high intensity for this large style cap. It has the diode and capacitor needed for driving colour changing LEDs. I used a string of warm white Poundland garden parasol lights to convert the globes to a brighter warm white. The different look and sound of this video is because I'm travelling with work and have had to improvise a recording setup in accommodation that is not ideal for recording videos. That said, I quite like the background - but the lighting needs some work. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. The Patreon support keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

Special thanks to Gordon at eFIXX for sending this faulty Tesla model X headlight for us to explore. https://www.youtube.com/c/efixx This whole light was condemned and replaced because it seemed to be causing network issues. In reality it was only the control module that seems to have an issue. It comes off with four screws and two connectors. There are three connections to the light - power and a single data line. I strongly recommend against trying to open these lights, as they are glued shut with a tough adhesive, and after wasting a lot of time with an angry Dremel it took a Ryobi cordless angle grinder with a cutting disk to get the very chewy polycarbonate lens off the front. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. The Patreon support keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

This is odd. I found it while looking at the other USB night light options. It plugs directly into a USB port and does the usual "licking flame" effect, albeit with a very short loop, suggesting maybe a lookup table being used for the animation. My own preference is for a more random effect where it's hard to see the loop repeat if at all. The circuit is simple, so it would make a good base for writing your own code for a microcontroller with matching pinout. The current draw was roughly 30mA. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. The Patreon support keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

I've always considered Otis to be the most iconic elevator brand, with a very interesting technical history. This door controller is very "Otis". It seems to be well designed at every level with well laid out circuitry, proper input/output protection and no corner cutting. The controller is surprisingly complex. It's a computer controlled variable frequency drive specifically designed for one application. It can operate on a variety of networks including a proprietary one and CAN Bus, plus accept simple switch signals for use with older equipment. It takes a surprising level of torque to open and close an elevator door, as the drive mechanism isn't just driving the car door, but also the mechanically interlocked landing door, which has a self-closing bias. Then there are various friction factors like debris in the door track and general wear and tear. But the unit must also be able to detect obstructions and avoid using excessive force to avoid causing injury to users. To give good torque and precise speed control the controller has an integrated VFD with an IGBT module that converts the incoming single phase supply to a frequency controlled 3-phase supply for the motor. The classic Otis service tool is a simple handheld serial display and keyboard that will display whatever data the module it's connected to sends it. The menus can be quite deep, and also used for diagnostic and development purposes. A notable warning in the pocket service tool guide says "Warning: This function is used to to monitor and change the RAM memory hexadecimal codes. DO NOT USE THIS FUNCTION FOR ANY REASON!!!" The unit is designed to self-learn the door operator it's connected to, and work out motor-phase and encoder sequence by slowly trying the door in both directions until it hits a limit switch. By watching encoder movement and switches it can determine position based on door size data entered by the engineer setting it up. During the learning sequence it also displays questions regarding door movement and direction if needed. The IGBT block looks like it might be a Mitsubishi module like a PS21553-N. If it is then it does require external control from the processor for the phase control. That makes the software in the board's processor quite complex as it has to control the motor phases while also handling network communications. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts, which means I don't earn as much from my content as other YouTubers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

A very scientific experiment to test how much carbon dioxide cheap white wine can absorb. Basically turbo-champagne for technical people. Must remember to check that settings haven't reset to defaults next time..... One of the perils of using Android devices to record my videos is that apps can reset to defaults randomly during intense updates, which is why the fizzy moments when I held the glass to the microphone were ignored completely. Tough decision - do I get another bottle of wine and re-do the video (tempting, mainly because - more wine). Or do I just accept fate and release it as is..... I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts for a smoother viewing experience. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

Quite a useful work light, but with a few oddities - some of which are a bit squirmy. Although the light indicated that it has fully charged with a set of green LEDs, the lithium cell kept charging up to 4.3V before cutting off and settling back to 4.25V which is coincidentally the cut-off voltage for a classic DW01A style cell protection circuit. The power bank chip could have topped the cell off nicely at 4.2V if its voltage select pin had been connected to the 0V rail, which ironically passes right under the pin! Because they left it floating the chip cuts off at 4.35V instead, which is why the cell protection circuit kicked in. Lithium cells don't like heat, which is unfortunate when this one is mounted right behind a very hot LED COB array. There are no resistors, so the LEDs are being pushed quite hard. That won't be helped by the higher peak cell voltage. The battery thermistor may be to protect against excessive cell temperature. The construction is quite complex. I don't recommend taking one apart, as it's tricky to put back together again with things worthy of note being the route the wires take through the hinge, the vicinity of the wires to screw posts and the two longer screws that belong in the middle of the green bumpers. The wires also have to be pinned into the seals with a screwdriver while placing the COB arrays back into position, and there's a spring loaded position indexer that has to be put into place before the first hinge clam is put in place. There's just one of the indexers despite there being the facilities for two - so don't worry if you think one has pinged out somewhere. The screws also felt like they had been inserted into the plastic pillars with a bit too much torque. If I have to be brutally honest, I'd choose the Aldi worklight over the LIDL one. It has a simpler design and the facility to dim the LED array for cooler running. If using this light for a long time I'd recommend using it with just one LED COB lit, specifically the one on the same section as the control buttons, as it is not next to the lithium cell. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts, which means I don't earn as much from my content as other YouTubers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

I thought it would be a good idea to compare one of the mystery gas producing cells from an air freshener with a standard zinc-air hearing aid battery. I bridged both with a 270 ohm resistor to give a controlled current flow, and sealed them inside syringes with some silicone grease on the plunger for an extra seal, then left them to do their thing. A zinc-air battery is a type of cell that uses the oxygen in ambient air to facilitate an internal chemical reaction. They have some small holes in the cell case, and are supplied with a tab that covers them during storage to prevent the chemical process occuring. To use them you pull the tab off to expose them to air, and they then produce a voltage of about 1.3V. They are commonly used in hearing aids because they have quite a high energy density and once activated tend to be used immediately. In this weird application they are deliberately starved of the oxygen they need to generate current, and when a load is applied the smaller voltage they produce passes current through the load and they produce hydrogen gas at a rate determined by the current flow. This allows devices like grease dispensers and air-fresheners to use a simple resistor to set a gas generation speed with no external power required. When I first discovered this approach in an automatic grease dispenser I mentioned it to AvE who was the inspiration to take the grease dispenser apart in the first place. He has done his own experiment linked here:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ppm9b0JAQCQ Here's a link to the video where I discovered these cells being used in an automatic lubricator:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Be9RU3PU1bw I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts, which means I don't earn as much from my content as other YouTubers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

I was told about this exciting feature by Michael who had touched the antenna wire end while setting the device up. The button for programming it is right next to the wire, so it's easy to do. Most devices like this have a bit of sleeve over the wire end to protect against accidental contact. With a bare live wire hanging out the risk of it coming into contact with adjacent metalwork is also high, and that could either short to ground, destroying the module, or potentially give someone a shock from random metal that shouldn't have posed a risk. If you have one of these I would recommend adding a bit of insulating sleeve or tape to the end of the wire making sure the power is off when you do so. Even when used in a plastic enclosure there is a risk of getting a shock when changing the program settings. Given that the rest of the module seems a relatively sensible design the omission of insulation seems a bit odd. The unit is only intended to switch low current loads, so the circuitry looks relatively acceptable for that. In hindsight, the resistor on the input circuitry may be to make it less sensitive to capacitively coupled current to the switch wires. By having a resistor there it poses a slight load that will shunt stray current. The zener may be purely to protect the capacitor from overvoltage. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts, which means I don't earn as much from my content as other YouTubers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

Having explored the smaller version of this product I also bought the full sized extra-lust version directly from rubber-maid. I think they may have caressed it in their groin before they sent it, because it was EXTRA juicy. (I may have had some wine.) This unit also uses the fantastically simple gas generating electrochemical cell to squeeze the liquid out into the MOIST aroma dispersion wick. But it's purely intended for FIRM vertical mounting on a RIGID surface. There are currently some very scientific tests in progress involving an official gas generation cell and a conventional hearing-aid style zinc air battery being AUTOEROTICALLY deprived of oxygen to STIMULATE the production of hydrogen from the stifled electrochemical reaction. If all goes to plan, both plungers will be FIRM and ERECT in short order. (Spoiler - the experiment was a success.) In this case the unit squirts its fragrant JUICE down into a wick in a controlled and programmable manner (by a simple passive resistor) to dispense it's LUSTFULL aroma into the air from it's RUGGED and RIBBED exterior secured in place by a CHASTITY-BELT so nobody can take advantage of it's DESIRE without paying for the SERVICE. In hindsight, the diaphragm between the cell and aroma liquid is probably a hydrogen permeable polythene layer to allow the hydrogen to push the liquid out while keeping it away from the cell to avoid chemical interaction. Really - I had to finish off the vermouth - but it's quite potent for its ABV. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video LUST, which means I don't earn as much from my content as other YouTube DEVIANTS. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random SEXYTOYS for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free FILTH as it is made, and also regular live PORNOFUN streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more DECADENT. Other BEAR-PROSTITUTEOUS options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

With the current heatwave it seems a good time to take a look inside a fan controller. As is very predictable with grey imports, it is very basic and lacks any electrical noise suppression. The triac also lacks a basic snubber network, which is usually desirable with inductive loads. Such a simple circuit may have stability issues with some inductive loads. The spare component positions could have been intended for a couple of things. A crude locator with neon and resistor for finding the controller in the dark, or a snubber network. If they were intended for a snubber network then it's possible that it was left off because it takes very little current to make a fan rotate, and it may have leaked enough to keep a new fan turning slowly. If it had been on the other side of the switch it would have been less of an issue. I'm not sure if these are made in 120V versions. It's possible that the simplest fix for timing might be to adjust the capacitor value down so it charged faster on each half cycle. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts, which means I don't earn as much from my content as other YouTubers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

A very unusual air freshener that uses electrochemical generation of gas to push aroma liquid to a wicking material at a programmable rate. It creates a controlled smell silently for a very long time. It uses a similar system to the industrial grease dispensers, where a button cell similar to standard zinc-air cells has been optimised for the generation of gas by depriving it of the oxygen needed for normal operation. When bridged with a resistor, it passes current and creates gas that can be used to pressurise chambers or depress plungers at a controlled rate. The value of the resistor sets the speed at which that happens. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts, which means I don't earn as much from my content as other YouTubers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

I got this unit to explore it as an option for providing a high current 12V power supply for short term use. It's a car jump starter and USB power bank. The 12V output is direct from the lithium battery pack with no protection, so care would need to be taken not to over discharge the pack when using it as a 12V supply. The connector is a standard EC5 high current battery connector, which is handy. The USB connector has floating data pins, so it may not be recognised by some devices. It's a very modular design. A microcontroller that displays charge level and controls the buck regulator for the 5V output that is also used for the LED, and a current regulator for charging the lithium pack that has a three cell protection chip and matching charge/discharge control MOSFETs. One oddity is the use of the microcontroller to directly drive the charging buck regulator's MOSFET. The Battery pack has a four pin connector for charging and monitoring individual cell voltage. There's no balancing, just a shut-off when one of the cells reaches about 4.25V. It also has the high current connector tapped directly across the pack that then feeds a plug-in jump start module that contains the anti-reverse charging diodes and the MOSFETs used to switch the output to the beefy alligator clips when a separate microcontroller detects that suitable conditions have been met. The lithium cells used in these are usually the high current type that have a different internal construction from normal cells. Instead of the electrode foils being long spiral-wound strips, the high current cells often have a stack of alternate layers of electrode foils and dielectric separators with a cluster of parallel tabs brought out the end of the cell. This allows discharge at very high currents, in brief bursts of hundreds of amps. It looks a fairly sensible design, but as with most of these jump starters it's only really suited to an occasional quick jump start as opposed to endless cranking of an engine with issues that caused the car's battery to go flat in the first place. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts, which means I don't earn as much from my content as other YouTubers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

This is one of Poundland's solar garden light range, and it's one of the better items for appearance and hackability to ruggedise it against the elements and also customise it to your local sun levels. The use of a AAA cell allows upgrading it to a higher capacity NiMH cell. The solar panel is a decent size, but could be replaced with a slightly bigger one if desired. The circuit board is classic and the main hack on that would be to replace the inductor to suit your local sunshine levels. The LED string can be replaced with a much longer one in your choice of colour. It's a standard copper-wire string of LEDs in parallel. Things to improve to make your light last longer:- Bypass the switch with a solder blob or fill it with oil to coat the contacts. They often corrode. Coat the battery contacts and ends of the battery in grease or vaseline to block water and air from the contacts. That will greatly reduce the risk of corrosion, even if the light floods internally. Coat the PCB liberally with lacquer like nail varnish or grease like vaseline, paying particular attention to the pins of the four pin chip. Squish grease down the sides of the solar panel to stop water from seeping down inside. The solar panels are often very good, but can suffer from corrosion if water wicks in. Changing the NiMh cell every few years can give a light a new lease of life, as they do age with the high number of charge cycles in a year and high summer temperatures and charge current. Things to customise your light:- Change the LEDs to your choice of colour and quantity. Replace the LEDs with a custom soldered tree of clear 5mm LEDs to shoot coloured light out in all directions through the crackle glass. All the LEDs will have to match to share the current equally. Upgrade the cell to a higher capacity one. Swap in a new solar panel with higher current output than the existing one. Change the little inductor to suit your local sunlight level. Higher inductance is lower LED current. The datasheet suggests the following inductor values:- 10uH for 40mA LED current 15uH for 26mA 22uH for 18mA 27uH for 15mA 33uh for 11.5mA 47uH for 8mA 68uH for 5.3mA 82uH for 4mA 100uH for 3.3mA You can also use 220uH, 330uH, 470uH and higher for even lower LED current for longer battery life in places with less sunshine. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts, which means I don't earn as much from my content as other YouTubers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

Update. There appear to be many clones of these lights and many of them use smaller 3528 LEDs running at a total of around 60mA. They still work well, but will put out less light, and may not be a high enough load to keep some power banks awake. This came as a "gift" with an online purchase, but it turns out that it's a really nice design that would be perfect for adding a splash of light to a room or tent while camping or during a power outage. It's sold on eBay as a USB night light, and is available in white, warm white and a selection of other colours. The construction is simple, rugged and functional, and the diffuser provides a soft even distribution of light. Aside from its intended use as a night light when plugged into a USB wall socket or adaptor, it also has potential for use with a power bank and solar panel to provide regular nighttime illumination during prolonged outages or in remote locations. I'd regard this light as an emergency essential as it is cheap and very useful. Here's a "lowest cost first" search on eBay to prevent price gouging:- https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=usb+night+light&_sacat=0&_sop=15&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1 Guide price is around 1.50 to 2.00 pound/Euro/Dollars. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts, which means I don't earn as much from my content as other YouTubers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

I recently discovered there's a "thing" going around where people are charging lithium cells by attaching a stripped USB lead directly to them. Normally lithium cells are very safe if undamaged and correct charging procedures are used. But overcharging them like this can result in cell damage and potentially fire. Many of the "found" lithium cells salvaged from disposable devices have no extra protection circuitry because it's not needed in their application. But when recharging them it is very important to control the charge current and stop charging at around 4.2V Direct charging with a USB lead has very little current limiting and the charger will often smash more than its rated current into them, potentially damaging the charger too. It will also keep charging them beyond 4.2V and that poses a genuine risk of internal chemistry damage, potentially resulting in avalanche failure where an internal short circuit occurs. If that happens the full energy capacity of the cell will be released extremely quickly resulting in the electrolyte venting as a flammable vapour, and if sparks blow out too it can ignite resulting in a flamethrower effect. I want to stress that lithium cells are not dangerous because of the lithium. There's very little lithium metal in a rechargeable cell, and it's diffused through the electrode materials. The real hazard is their ability to store and release very high amounts of energy. (Like an overloaded Star Trek phaser.) If used correctly and protected from physical damage, lithium cells are very safe. You can easily and cheaply get TP4056 modules on eBay that let you charge a cell correctly from a standard USB lead. The keywords to find them are 5pcs USB TP4056. It's often cheaper to buy them in packs of 5 or 10. There are two types - with or without the extra DW01 protection chips. It doesn't add much to the cost, which is less than 1 £$€ per module. If you are OK with soldering surface mount resistors you can swap the existing 1.2K (122) resistor for a 2.2K (222) one to change the charging current from the standard 1A to 500mA. Alternatively a conventional quarter watt 2.2K resistor can have its leads shaped for soldering to the surface mount pads. The ideal charging current for a lithium cell is equal to its capacity in mAh. So a 500mAh cell is best charged at 500mA, although 1A can be used for faster charging at the expense of capacity and charge cycles. So far all the cells from modern "disposable" vapour devices that I've tested have taken a good charge. When salvaging cells for use in projects use common sense and caution with recharging. At this point in time the cells do seem to be standard rechargeable types, but that could change in the future if they discover a cheaper option. The connector I used is the KF2510 series. But a good option might be the bundles of pre-terminated pairs of connectors sold on eBay. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts, which means I don't earn as much from my content as other YouTubers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

Very few things impress me as much as this did. It has taken a clever idea to the next level of simplicity. I was expecting something similar to the one AvE took apart, but this one is completely different. I'm not sure if the cells are custom made or if they are standard zinc air cells, but the way they've been used is extraordinary. Do standard zinc air cells liberate gas when discharged slowly without a ready source of oxygen? A search for suitable keywords brought up a patent:- https://patents.google.com/patent/US5242565A/en A notable excerpt from that is the following:- "U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,105,830 to Kordesch and 4,189,526 to Cretzmeyer both describe "air depolarized" oxygen consuming "zinc air cells" but do not describe cells for the "evolution" of gases. Due to the teaching of the present invention it would be hindsight from the description of these cells to conclude that these cells contrary to their disclosures may be used as "hydrogen evolving cells" by simultaneously excluding oxygen from their cathodes and forcing electric currents to flow through the cells." In this case the oxygen exclusion may be simply leaving the storage labels that block the air vents in place (You activate zinc-air cells by removing the label.), and the forced current may be a simple resistor across the cell. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts, which means I don't earn as much from my content as other YouTubers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

This video has two short scripts included in its description that will allow you to 3D print a massive range of sign characters in many fonts and sizes. It's almost worth getting a 3D printer just for this project. To use the scripts you can download a free piece of CAD software called openscad that lets 3D objects be designed with a scripting language. When the scripts down below are copied and pasted into openscad it will let you create custom characters and then generate your STL files. You can download openscad here:- https://openscad.org/ Once you've changed the variables to your chosen character and sizes, you can press the button with the box and hourglass to render it, and then the STL button to save it. Have patience - large curved characters will take longer to render. The animated bar graph shows that openscad is building your sign character. The version 3 scripts are MUCH faster than previous ones because most of the work is done in 2D and then extruded to make the full height character. Most will be rendered in just a few seconds. I'd recommend playing with the scripts to create small 50mm (2") high characters first to get a feel for it. I used standard PLA and it produced excellent results. The only limit to the size of character you can make is the size of your printer build plate and your patience, as big characters take a lot of time to print. In the scripts there are several variables you can adjust:- Letter = the character, symbol or number you want to make. Style = the desired font, that must be spelled and capitalised as in the font list. Size = the height of the character in millimetres. Depth = the depth of the housing in mm - deeper is better for LED diffusion. $fn = the resolution of curves. It can usually be left as 100. Walls = the thickness of the side walls. Half of that will be a groove for the front plate. Base = the thickness of the base. While experimenting 0.4 is thin and fast. Face = the thickness of the front face. The face making script has one more variable called "fit" that nudges the sides in a bit to make fitting the faceplate into its channel easier. A value of 0.5mm will shrink the face 0.25mm on all sides. This compensates for any "squish" as the printer lays down the first layer. All variables must match between the body and face to ensure a correct fit. Have a play and let me know what you think of the results. For those who mentioned using offset vs menkowski, in 2D they seem to render at the same speed when using the radius option for curved corners. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts, which means I don't earn as much from my content as other YouTubers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get advert-free early access to videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm Here's the first of the scripts. It generates the body of the sign:- //Sign body maker V3 - bigclivedotcom letter = "A"; //Sign character to make style = "Arial"; //See "Help" and "Font List" size = 50; //Size of character (height) depth = 10; //Depth of sign character $fn=100; //Curve facets - higher is smoother walls = 2; //Side wall thickness base=.4; //Base thickness (-1 for open back) face = 1; //Face thickness //Don't change variables below here sized=size-(2*walls); difference(){ linear_extrude(height=depth) minkowski(){ text(letter,sized,style); circle(walls); } //Lip for front face (half wall thickness) translate([0,0,depth-face]) linear_extrude(height=2*face) minkowski(){ text(letter,sized,style); circle(walls/2); } //hollow core of letter translate([0,0,base]) linear_extrude(height=depth+2) text(letter,sized,style); } Here's the second script. It generates the face for the sign:- //Sign front-face generator V3 - bigclivedotcom //All variables must match the sign body sizes letter = "A"; //Sign character to make style = "Arial"; //See "Help" and "Font List" size = 50; //Size of character $fn=100; //Curve facets - higher is smoother walls = 2; //Side wall thickness face = 1; //Face thickness fit = 0.5; //Slight shrink of face for easier fitting //Don't change variables below here sized=size-(2*walls); linear_extrude(height=face) minkowski(){ text(letter,sized,style); circle((walls/2)-fit/2); }

I do like mystery eBay control modules, so I got one of these actuators for us to explore. This unit is intended for Chinese 220V, but does operate on 110V too, but at much lower power (1W). It still has decent torque for some applications at the lower voltage. Its purpose is to rotate a plate (damper) inside a duct to select between full airflow or nearly none. There's no intermediate position with this unit - just on and off, and there's also no feedback to show it has operated successfully other than the actual airflow happening. I guess this could also control water valves and many other devices that use a rotation of 90 degrees. As with all cheap eBay industrial stuff, I regard this as suitable for hobby or prototyping use. I don't recommend using grey import items in commercial products. The operation is incredibly simple. Just a very standard 4W geared synchronous motor and two end of travel switches. No fancy direction control. Just relying on the motor stalling and reversing at the end of its travel. You can find these on eBay if you search for the keywords air damper actuator. Typical cost should be 10-15 pounds/dollars/euros. Be aware that the open and close connections can backfeed to each other, so should always be treated as being live while experimenting. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts, which means I don't earn as much from my content as other YouTubers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

Much simpler than the zapping fly traps, this type uses a UVA lamp to attract flies to a replaceable sticky board. When they land on it they get stuck. The most complicated part of this is the electronic ballast for the tube, which is the same sort of circuitry you'd find inside a compact fluorescent lamp. Interesting startup circuit. Very minimalist. This unit does have a weird design flaw. It has to be plugged into an extension or adaptor, since the case fouls the switch on most UK sockets, preventing it from being plugged in fully. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts, which means I don't earn as much from my content as other YouTubers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

After the Fray Bentos Steak & Kidney pie disaster (it was mostly gravy) I thought that it would be worth checking out the chicken version. These tinned pies are a British tradition. In the past, families used to share one of these pies as a weekend treat. Probably because it was an easy meal to make. I did eat this whole pie (The one that entire families used to share) and it was delicious. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts, which means I don't earn as much from my content as other YouTubers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

Not what I was expecting. This is the PCB from inside a pedestrian detector as used on pedestrian crossings. It uses two fresnel lenses behind a sheet of black infrared filter material to fire out a matrix of 30 infrared dots in the same way as a disco LED moonflower light. It then measures the amount of IR reflected back from each beam and uses a PIC microcontroller to analyse any fluctuations caused by someone moving in front of the unit. On further investigation it looks as though the pairs of 1 ohm resistors in parallel may actually be current sense resistors to regulate the current through each set of LEDs to around 1A. It also looks as though there is a resistor and capacitor in series with each microcontroller control line for the LEDs to make sure that a glitch or crash can't leave the LEDs powered continuously. Although each set of three LEDs has its own current regulator (for wider voltage-range use?) the microcontroller only uses five lines to switch them as groups of six. I'm not sure what condition causes the relay to operate as I didn't get it to click a single time while I was playing with the unit. It may be faulty or just require a specific sequence of events to indicate a level of activity or if there's been a gap in the traffic and someone has crossed early. The software in the PIC microcontroller must be quite complex to analyse fluctuations in ambient light and when something is causing false triggering of one beam repeatedly. I'd guess it also processes the input to make a relay trigger decision based on pedestrian activity and time. The unit is designed to run on 24V AC or DC and the relay looks like it may be providing a volt free contact to the control system. The other relay position is probably for another function like fault indication or maybe to indicate other detected conditions like a high number of pedestrians. The inside of the case had a barrier and sealing foam to prevent light from bouncing across internally and affecting sensitivity. The same barrier technique is used in infrared distance and obstacle sensors. Oddly, the lower LEDs had a film of translucent residue on them that looked like it had precipitated out from the adhesive light-blocking foam or from moisture condensation. With this type of optical system the clarity of the lens is important. It wiped off easily with isopropanol restoring the clarity to the lenses. The fact it only affected a specific layer of LEDs made me wonder if it was a deliberate dulling spray for the closer range beams. But I think it was just residue. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts, which means I don't earn as much from my content as other YouTubers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel by subscribing and/or with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Did you spot my enormous boo-boo? In the video I suggested that in 200V+ countries the dropper capacitor could be changed to a 470uF one. I actually meant 470nF and did test it afterwards, with the unit operating as intended, but at half the power. Assuming you could find a 470uF 400V non polarised capacitor that even remotely fitted in the case, the result of installing it would be brief, loud and hilarious. And result in the instant demise of most of the circuitry. (Which is probably what it deserves anyway.) I've got a few random ionisers that seem to have been designed by people with no grasp of the science. Even the respectable Mountain Breeze brand experimented with adding pointless gimmicks like variable output control. In reality, the ioniser module could be left powered all the time, as that is how they are intended to be used. Ionisers put an electrostatic charge into the air that causes fine particulate dust to take on a charge and then precipitate to any adjacent ground referenced surface, including materials you wouldn't really consider as being grounded. They make a huge mess in the process, but have the advantage of being virtually silent and extremely low power. Unfortunately the quackery surrounding them in the past has given them a bad reputation. But you can prove they work by simply placing one on a sheet of white paper and running it. Within days the paper will be visibly darker where uncovered due to the precipitation of particulates from the air. Most ionisers do produce a very low trace level of ozone that is nowhere near the level present in fresh outdoor air. That trace level poses no health risk and has potential advantages in ambient odour, mould and bacteria control. This unit has followed the common approach of taking proven technology and adding pointless features as a sales gimmick. From the pointless on/off button to the ramping green LED that dips out and in around every 40 seconds, these features just reduce reliability. The green LED probably means that the unit will be turned off when it should be left active all the time. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts, which means I don't earn as much from my content as other YouTubers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators

A look inside a very common cordless ratchet as used in garages around the world. Many of these unbranded tools are actually fairly well engineered due to their high volume of manufacture. This one has no fancy branding or features, but works fine. I'd guess it's probably used by many professional maintenance engineers in China as well as many home mechanics. I've not used this tool in anger yet, so if you have experience of using one then leave a comment down below. I must stress that ALL cordless ratchets are not intended for use with extreme force on seized nuts and bolts. They are more for whizzing them in and out, but can handle modest pressure on non-seized hardware. The weakest part on all these units is probably the pin that oscillates the ratchet mechanism. I mentioned Tekamo HD, so here's a link to a video of Cam giving a genuine heavy user review of various tools:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GwQ0iMR6Uk The design of the tool and it's charger are very simple and functional. Just how tools should be. The protection built into the battery pack makes it useful for other projects too. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts, which means I don't earn as much from my content as other YouTubers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #electronicscreators #Tekamo HD

While it's commendable that Apple introduced style to humble things like USB chargers, it's not so commendable that the inevitable clones tried to jam all the required circuitry into a tiny plug and sell it for a pound/dollar/euro. This charger was bought from a high street store in Glasgow. An independent Asian pound shop (UK dollar store) that I actually like a lot, but this shouldn't really be on their shelves. Most high profile pound shops charge around £2 for a basic charger and they are generally OK. But even the bigger names like Pound World (Now called One Below) fell foul of selling dangerous chargers. Their current offering does look safer, but Poundland is still the king for better quality tech. I personally use an IKEA USB charger for all my tech. (Not a sponsor.) With a genuine Motorola charger for battery capacity tests. (Also not a sponsor.) I've said it before and I'll say it again. Don't buy cheap power supplies. Only buy them from prominent brands with a reputation to protect. That includes ASDA and Walmart. A USB charger is an essential part of modern living, and plugging your £$€1000 smartphone/tablet into a £$€1 charger is basically a death wish for you and your tech. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This thing is hilarious. It's a toy ninja with a light sensor so that when it detects a disturbance in light levels it farts loudly. The circuitry is pretty much what you'd expect to find in these. A light detector based on a simple potential divider with a traditional LDR, and a couple of transistors to amplify the signal to the point it can trigger the sound chip. The sound chip may just be a microcontroller, and drives a miniature 8 ohm speaker directly on two pins. It seems to do so as a series of positive and negative going spikes. I ran out of time to analyse the signal further as I don't use oscilloscopes regularly enough to hone in on the data I need quickly. The brief bursts of noise and seemingly simple pulsed waveform made it hard to get an automatic lock on the full sound. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts, which means I don't earn as much from my content as other YouTubers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

It's always interesting to explore different types of LED lamp to see if they can be hacked for longer life by reducing their power. This lamp CAN be hacked, but it's not quite as easy as some of the others. If tacking a standard resistor on in place of the existing surface mount ones, keep in mind that the lead should not touch the metallised lamp coating, and should be shaped to allow the plastic lens to be refitted. When I said "dooby" it's a reference to the super-efficient Dubai lamps. By decreasing power dissipation of the LEDs the lifespan of these lamps can be increased greatly. At very low power the lamp could last thousands of times longer due to the greatly reduced thermal stress. The LEDs also operate at much higher efficiency when under-run. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

These USB rechargeable work lights have evolved fast. They are bright and have a decent run time. This version has a USB power bank function too, which is useful, although it's only rated at 1A. The stand works well for aiming the light, and the general construction feels rugged, with firm bumpers on all edges. It has two intensity settings, and unlike some others, there is no perceivable PWM flicker at the lower intensity setting. The LEDs are powered directly from the lithium pack, so intensity will reduce as the battery voltage drops, but this is much preferable to the ones that bang out full intensity until they suddenly cut off. The lithium pack contains two 2200mAh cells in parallel which is very acceptable. The design makes their replacement fairly easy if desired. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to videos as they are made and intimate live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Paper shredder goes bang. Mitch had just oiled it with some maintenance spray and the collection bucket reached just the right fuel-air mixture to ignite from the motor brush sparks. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

These seem to be the LED equivalent of the classic neon flicker flame lamps that used flame shaped electrodes in neon filled glass globes with an unstable discharge to create a flickering effect. The colour of these is very good, and the use of a microcontroller opens up possibilities of the software evolving for a truly random effect as opposed to a repeating loop. That said, the loop in these units is long enough not to look too repetitive. If you put a resistor in series with the module the flame effect still looks good at very low current, so there's a possibility the module could be used in a solar light in place of the existing LED if it has a diode and capacitor to stop it resetting. (The colour changing solar lights have that extra diode and capacitor.) I'd like to thank Michael for sending me some of these. I had been looking at them while browsing AliExpress for other filaments. The sellers shop is here:- https://www.aliexpress.com/store/911662319?pagePath=index.htm If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

An unusual light that puts out a flat beam in all directions. It is apparently intended for mounting on windowsills to create a beam of light around a whole window bay from a single point, but is also frequently shown in Ali/eBay listings in corridors creating a series of tunnels of light. Although the beam of light does diverge fairly rapidly over distance it is still tight enough to create very nice laser-like effects with a light fog swirling through it. Here's the AliExpress listing I bought it from, but there are also many other listings and styles. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001438047975.html Guide price - around £20. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to videos as they are made and intimate live streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I can't believe how these things have taken off. The streets are covered in discarded packets and the sealed inner sleeves. (Glycol is extremely hygroscopic, so they have to be shipped in an airtight pack.) Aside from the ones I harvested from the streets of Glasgow, I also bought some others to check out their cell capacity. There are some very nice rechargeable cells in some of them. Once I get back to my usual workshop I'll be doing some capacity tests on them. Update - the cells all took a full charge. I did notice that the number of discarded units was much lower than the discarded wrappers, which makes me think that technically inclined people may already be harvesting the lithium bounty from the roadside. (I can't resist scanning the ground for them.) If you're doing the future-dystopian thing and harvesting these to reuse then I recommend thoroughly sterilising the mouthpiece, it's pad of moisture trapping material and also the outer tube. Then refill with a commercial liquid of your choice or just plain glycerol/glycerin/glycerine (three names - same thing) for maximum theatrical fog with no unknown additives. If reusing the lithium cells they will need to be recharged properly, which means limiting the current to around 500mA for most and capping the charge voltage to 4.2V max. The classic TP4056 type PCB is perfect for this, although many items that already use lithium cells will have that charge circuitry built in. I've tested several cells and they took a full charge, suggesting they are fresh cells and quite good quality. Not a surprise in the high turnover and high current application. The larger brands of these products appear to be bracing themselves for a potential environmental backlash by offering similar units that use a rechargeable cell with replacement pods. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

There are three versions of the star script to suit different preferences. For the openscad script I used for the stars in this video, copy this link and paste it into a new window. www.bigclive.com/scad/neostar.scad Kai-Steffen's version on Github:- https://github.com/ksjh/LEDneon Horrovac's version on printables:- https://www.printables.com/model/176599-neon-stars The original video with more details about terminating and fitting the LED strip:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9bSzE9ir1Q

Exploring some very early prototype LED panels from when gallium nitride LEDs first appeared on eBay (the dumpster ones!) and made projects like this viable. I also appear to have inadvertently predicted the use of large arrays of LEDs with simple current limiting as used in modern lamps, albeit with each LED containing large numbers of separate LED dice. Perhaps I should revisit this project and add a two transistor regulator for stable current regulation on bumpy supply voltage. I like the idea of 3D printing a custom housing too. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Another drink meets the Sodastream for experimental carbonation. And yes - I did choose Cockburn's fortified red wine because of the name. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I had huge childhood memories of Fray Bentos Steak & Kidney pie. But those have now been thoroughly destroyed by this pastry topped meat-themed jelly. Even if they'd just packed it out with textured soy protein it would have been infinitely preferable to this tray of brown jelly with token gesture shreds of meat to tick the box. The score for the pie out of 10 is just 2. It was mostly jelly with notable lumps of congealed thickener and what's best described as a diffusion of MRM (Mechanically Reclaimed Meat) particles. I get the feeling that they may have classed beef gelatine as part of the stated beef percentage. I see this sort of thing a lot with big brands like Kellogs and others, where they feel their name is enough to sell a product, so they yield a miserable profit-optimised offering that is easily surpassed by supermarket own-brands. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Quite an interesting and cost-engineered construction. The thermal fuse turns out to have a sliding contact that is held in place against a contact in the ceramic cap by the short and more powerful spring that is also pressing against a compound that melts at a specific temperature. When it does melt, the spring is pushed down into the melted compound (which may have been the powder by the time I'd squashed it), and the weaker spring then pushes the sliding contact down away from the ceramic cap's contact and breaks the circuit. The tough plastic sleeve with the end crimped around the wires is a very clever way of making a sealed package for use in a wet environment. A fascinating bit of cost-engineering. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I found this high voltage fuse on the transformer in a microwave. It seemed a good idea to blow it for educational reasons. Note that most modern home-microwave magnetrons do not use beryllium oxide insulators, despite the negatarian folklore. But always play safe and assume the worst. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

When you see a mystery button you've got to press it. (Now work out how you'd achieve the same effect.) This is in the newly refurbished Delmonicas bar. It's one of my two favourite pubs in Glasgow, the other being the Solid Rock Cafe. Two venues that are completely different, but have a good atmosphere. Like and subscribe if you want to stop me pressing random toilet-buttons in venues of ill-repute. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #sharts

These stickers are sold as "safety" devices that will shield you from RF energy from your phone and other home appliances. In reality there's nothing safe about them. Worse still, they may pose a genuine safety risk by exposing the user to an unnecessary level of radiation from what is presumably the thorium dioxide commonly used in this type of product. If you see someone using these stickers, tell them that they may pose a radiation exposure risk and advise removing them. This all stems from the lucrative conspiracy industry that invents scaremongering pseudo-science to encourage people to buy useless or sometimes dangerous products to protect them from the implied hazards. I have huge concerns for the factory workers involved in manufacturing these quack devices. The thorium is normally added in a powder form, meaning that they will invariably be breathing in and ingesting radioactive material for no justifiable reason at all. This will cause them health issues in later life. The whole concept of the new 5G standard is to create a system akin to a street-wide WiFi network that will effectively lower the RF output of modern phones. A metal sticker like this may actually interfere with the antenna in your phone and cause it to transmit at a higher power level than required. The same conspiracists have already started creating false hype about the future 6G standard despite it still being under development. There's a long history of this behaviour, including implications that electricity would kill everyone and that if vehicles went too fast people would stop breathing and die. The perpetrators are usually not technically inclined and create false science to promote their agenda. Some even buy doctorates to imply they are medical experts. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is a tiny little sticker designed to be stuck to a fingernail prior to covering it with nail art. It then flashes with pulses of power received from the NFC (Near Field Communication) coil in the back of your phone. I'm not sure if they are intended to be used with an app that makes the NFC coil more active, but I wouldn't really want a random app like that on my phone anyway, for security reasons. Note that subsequent closer examination showed that it has a second 12 turn coil on the back to effectively double the number of turns to 24. These stickers can also be used to locate the position of the coil in your phone by shifting them about and noting the intensity. They may also be effective on the coils of NFC readers, but do not work with the classic RFID 250kHz readers or QI charger coils. The circuitry is interesting in the way it uses a simple voltage doubler based on high speed diodes and capacitors. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A look inside one of the beacons used on gaming equipment around the world. One of the most notable differences between this gaming beacon and a traditional factory machine tower light is the grounding strap used to limit external influence from external electrical influences like RF generators and high voltage zappers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Initially I thought this was a quack medical product like a radionic energy blaster for curing middle aged Karens of sadness. It turned out to actually be a real medical style device, albeit perhaps only suitable for use in some countries. The construction is actually really neat, and while it's not very serviceable, it does look like a lot of effort has gone into its design. The glass section looks similar to a lab style ground glass tube with a rim, the heater looks like a fairly standard industrial cartridge or soldering iron heater, the controller looks either custom modified or built from scratch and the case is hand made out of wood. In keeping with devices from the same industry it looks nicely engineered. I'm aware that many technical people with a strong Aspergers twist may partake of medicinal herbs to escape the noise of their overactive brains, so it fits that the industry has a high percentage of very skilled engineers and programmers in it that design stuff to their requirements. I mentioned in the video that this was found at a car boot sale. That's the UK equivalent of a garage or yard sale where people arrange boot-sales at car parks, bring their cars full of junk and have the boots (rear hatch) doors open as a makeshift retail space. When I worked out what it might be I did an image search with suitable keywords and found that the magic search is:- "vp-100 vaporizer" If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Update:- There IS a very minimalist wiring guide in the setup instructions that clearly shows two brown wires going to both the live and the earth terminals. If wired like that, the case of an earthed appliance plugged into the socket would become live at full mains voltage. Note that while there is a metal mounting plate, it has a painted surface, so it does not make a good connection to the earth/ground tabs at the sides. This is a smart socket that is sold under different brands. As it's been recalled I thought I'd take a look at it to see if we could work out why. I didn't test it under heavy load, so I don't know if the recall is purely down to the obvious grounding oddity, wiring diagram error or other aspects too. But the circuitry actually looks well designed, notably the use of a synchronous rectifier, basic filtering and good electrical separation. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

There's a reason I never make videos featuring MOTs (Microwave Oven Transformers). The high voltage, and more importantly - high current, means they are as dangerous as playing with overhead lines. This does NOT apply to the spot welder projects where the dangerous high voltage secondary is removed completely and replaced with a few turns of heavy wire for low voltage and high current. Seeing non-technical people playing with open transformers with car jump leads connecting them to wet salty wood outdoors or in a garage is scary, especially when they handle the low-voltage rated cables while the transformer is powered. Even worse when kids are involved. It's made a lot worse by the number of people that have been discovered in burning garages because the transformer continued to pump out current after they were dead. YouTube seems to be applying filtering to new videos involving associated keywords, but still has a lot of legacy videos, some of which are clearly being removed. TikTok is doing what TikTok does and still pushing out shallow and very dangerous videos that seem to lack all safety information. Here's a link to the page I mentioned. Be aware that it has a picture of a very badly burned hand:- https://burncenters.com/patient-stories/marycalhoun2021/ I'm really glad Mary survived that. It was a VERY close call. A graphic interview of someone who survived (barely) a shock while fracking, including how it happened, what it felt like and the damage it caused to their body:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ye09i4JQAYs The American Association of Woodturners is taking a stance against people doing this due to the high number of deaths being reported. https://www.woodturner.org/Woodturner/Resources/Information-/Safety/Lichtenburg-Burning---Fractal-Burning/Woodturner/Resources/Safety-Materials/Safety-Fractal-Burning-Lichtenburg-Burning.aspx?hkey=02ac1815-a0e5-4673-a646-741574ab3a76 It is possible to use these transformers for this project safely, but it does require a full understanding that you're dealing with a voltage that is exponentially more dangerous than mains voltage. The inclusion of a properly made Dead-man's switch which will require both of your hands to press momentary action buttons is a start, but doesn't protect against unexpected poking by other people's inquisitive fingers. If doing this regularly the ideal setup would be a grounded/earthed metal cabinet with a glass window on the top for viewing the process, at least two safety switches operated by the hinged lid, some lighting to watch your creation being formed and also act as an extra warning indicator and an extract fan and duct to take the smoke outside and enhance the viewing experience. The safety switches would also have to be mounted in a way that prevented accidental operation while leaning into the unit. For actually operating the unit you could then have a hand-held control button, or one mounted on the unit itself. The neon sign transformer approach uses much lower current, and as such the effect requires more understanding and care to achieve, and will be much slower. But an advantage of the lower current is that a much more detailed result is achieved. It's unfortunate that the sign transformers are getting harder to find and cost a lot to buy. Even with the lower current, the same safety procedures must be followed. I'm not saying DON'T do it. Just do it properly with suitable safety precautions and understand the hazards you're dealing with. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This set of lights would fail most countries electrical safety tests, but is very typical of the grey imports from China. With its ultra thin copper coated aluminium flex, very simple power supply and mains referenced LED string with resistors being run well above their normal rating, it makes me wonder if it's just naivety of the designer or if they want to hasten the failure of the product for future sales. These WILL work on 120V, running at lower current and with cooler resistors. I've tested that and they still give a good effect. Note that these lights are not safe for use within reach of pets or children. They should also be used with a fused adaptor with a low current fuse. Other than that's they're quite nice lights and probably worth getting for the caps alone, which emit a nice pattern of dots. The two colour alternating LEDs are very common in these products. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Another splendid piece of pink danger-ware for exploration. This ticks every box including melting paint and the smell of hot plastic when left on for a while. Extra points for the inappropriate LED resistor and flimsy copper coated aluminium flex. On a plus note this one will probably keep your cup of coffee quite hot. Probably best to remember to switch it off afterwards though. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A look at some cheap eBay battery disconnectors that allow you to quickly disconnect a battery for working on a vehicle or preventing battery draining while a vehicle is not in use. When I bought these I thought they might be solid brass, but it appears that all that glitters is neither gold nor brass. I wonder how well the plating will last. It's made me ponder the best metals for compatibility with the traditional lead battery terminals. Never use one of the wire-brush terminal cleaners on these. It will quickly remove the contact plating. Eric-O at South Main Auto seems to come across a lot of problems with ground connections onto aluminium engine blocks. The standard test for that is to measure for voltage difference across what should be solid connections when under load. Apparently the fuse option is used as a security feature. It's wired across the isolator/disconnector and keeps the system powered to retain settings, but will blow the fuse if anyone tries to start the car. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

If I had to have a single test tool for electrical maintenance work it would be a voltage tester (test lamp) as they are the best way to check for the presence of voltage reliably by applying a load to the circuit being tested. Normally I'd suggest a Fluke tester for professional work, but for home use by DIYers or trades that might not use them so much, I'd suggest a cheap and simple set like these. The cheap sets actually have a big advantage over the higher profile brands in that they often power themselves directly from the circuit, and in doing so load it down enough to shunt stray capacitively coupled leakage current that can cause false readings on some more sophisticated and expensive testers. It also means you don't have to worry about batteries going flat or leaking and destroying the tester. That does also mean that these pass enough current to give a strong shock if you hold the end of a probe while sticking the other into a live connection. Use them with suitable caution. The circuitry in this unit is quite sophisticated, but does lack the reassurance of a fuse. As such I'd only recommend its use on lower energy circuits like home circuits beyond the distribution board, and not in high current industrial equipment. Use a Fluke for the industrial stuff to "tick the box". If one of the four rectifier diodes failed in this tester it could cause a high current fault with nothing but the tracks as fuses, and that might not deal with the fault as well as a proper HRC fuse. The diodes could also have been spaced a little further apart, as the DC side does have full mains potential across it. The tester does come with tip covers (which you will lose) but does not have shrouds around the probes so only the tips are exposed. I'd suggest adding a bit of sleeving if using in areas where you could bridge onto adjacent grounded metal or other connections. I'd guess this same tester is available in other countries under different branding, as Duratool is a fairly generic brand. I got this one from CPC in the UK for the surprisingly low price of £2.78 including VAT. I couldn't even buy the components for that cost. https://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d03307/voltage-tester/dp/IN08362 Note that the initial peak of current can trip an RCD/GFCI if used between live and earth. To avoid that, test between live and neutral first so the thermistors are pre-heated and then immediately test between live and earth, as there won't be the same current peak. This applies to some of the professional testers too, with one manufacturer implying that it's a "feature". It's always recommended to check your tester on a known live circuit before use. Also check the leads of test equipment for signs of damage when stored in amongst other tools. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

LED neon or LED flex is a very handy material for creating neon-like signage and effects. As time goes on it's harder to find places that still make traditional glass neon. This is largely due to the advances made with LED technology providing a safe low voltage alternative for illumination of channel letters signs, and novel materials like this that emulate the traditional linear lines of neon. Cost is a major factor too. While the LED neon flex won't last as long as a properly processed neon tube, it is easier to drive and much more tolerant of rough handling. This project uses short pieces of LED neon flex to create very punchy looking geometric shapes. It's perfect for using up residual scraps from other projects. To make a frame, copy and paste one of the scripts at the bottom of this description area into openscad, a free piece of open source software written by mathematical wizards. It allows you to describe 3D objects as text. That makes it very easy to adjust parameters to make custom STL files for using with your choice of slicer software (converts an STL file to a 3D printable form), and then print them with your 3D printer of choice. Neon frame openscad scripts. Circle, triangle and square. Make sure you leave the "=" and ";" intact when adjusting variables - they are needed by the software:- //LED neon circle frame //Two main adjustable variables thick=5; //thickness of LED neon diam=121; //diameter of circular frame //More specialist variables wall=1.2; //wall thickness height=6; //depth of groove $fn=100; //circle segments //Don't change variables below here wl=wall*2; thk=thick*2; radius=diam/2; difference(){ //main disk cylinder(h=height+1, d=diam); //central void translate([0,0,-1]) cylinder(h=height+2, d=diam-thk-(wall*4)); //cable hole translate([0,radius-wall-(thick/2),-1]) cylinder(h=height+2, d=thick-1); difference(){ //channel groove outer dimension translate([0,0,1]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=diam-wl); //channel groove inner dimension translate([0,0,-1]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=diam-wl-thk); } } //LED neon triangle frame //Adjust these main variables to suit thick=5; //width of LED groove width=150; //width of frame //More specialist variables height=6; //depth of LED groove wall=1.2; //wall thickness curve=20; //corner outer radius $fn=100; //circle segments //Don't change variables below here wl=wall*2; crv=curve*2; thk=thick*2; crz=(width/2)-curve; tri=crz*1.732-crz; //peak of triangle difference(){ //main disk hull() { translate([-crz,crz,0]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv); translate([crz,crz,0]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv); translate([0,-tri,0]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv); } //central void hull() { translate([-crz,crz,-1]) cylinder(h=height+3, d=crv-wl-wl-thk); translate([crz,crz,-1]) cylinder(h=height+3, d=crv-wl-wl-thk); translate([0,-tri,-1]) cylinder(h=height+3, d=crv-wl-wl-thk); } //cable hole translate([0,(width/2)-wall-(thick/2),-1]) cylinder(h=height+2, d=thick-1); difference(){ //channel groove outer dimension hull() { translate([-crz,crz,1]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl); translate([crz,crz,1]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl); translate([0,-tri,1]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl); } //channel groove inner dimension hull() { translate([-crz,crz,1]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl-thk); translate([crz,crz,1]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl-thk); translate([0,-tri,1]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl-thk); } } } //LED neon square frame //Adjust these main variables to suit thick=5; //thickness of LED neon strip width=100; //width of frame //More specialist variables height=6; //depth of groove wall=1.2; //wall thickness curve=20; //corner outer radius $fn=100; //circle segments //Don't change variables below here wl=wall*2; crv=curve*2; thk=thick*2; crz=(width/2)-curve; difference(){ //main frame hull() { translate([-crz,crz,0]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv); translate([crz,crz,0]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv); translate([-crz,-crz,0]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv); translate([crz,-crz,0]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv); } //central void hull() { translate([-crz,crz,-1]) cylinder(h=height+3, d=crv-wl-wl-thk); translate([crz,crz,-1]) cylinder(h=height+3, d=crv-wl-wl-thk); translate([-crz,-crz,-1]) cylinder(h=height+3, d=crv-wl-wl-thk); translate([crz,-crz,-1]) cylinder(h=height+3, d=crv-wl-wl-thk); } //cable hole translate([0,(width/2)-wall-(thick/2),-1]) cylinder(h=height+2, d=thick-1); difference(){ //channel groove outer hull() { translate([-crz,crz,1]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl); translate([crz,crz,1]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl); translate([-crz,-crz,1]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl); translate([crz,-crz,1]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl); } //channel groove inner hull() { translate([-crz,crz,1]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl-thk); translate([crz,crz,1]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl-thk); translate([-crz,-crz,1]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl-thk); translate([crz,-crz,1]) cylinder(h=height+1, d=crv-wl-thk); } } }

This is better! There's a reason traditional core 'n' coil transformers are used in stuff like this. Using an old fashioned transformer gives better electrical separation and gets rid of the stressed out low-ESR capacitors. I didn't originally intent to go quite so deep with the schematic in this, but it turned out to be quite interesting inside. Note the custom badged relays, which I would guess are of a better quality than the Chongle clone ones. The thermistor is the classic 10K type (10,000 ohms at 25C), but injection moulded in a plastic case like some of the industrial ones I recall from my Hussmann days. This unit is notable for offering a choice of celcius or farenheit display, but changing that option will reset all the existing settings. The allowance of circuitry positions for an RS485 network is intriguing. Especially as the address setting facility is already in the programming menu. I'll guess it's for remote monitoring of multiple cases. There are three pads for a connector, but only the RS485 data lines are connected. For the screen/reference the thermistors 0V connection would have to be used. So this may be a work in progress. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I was hoping this lamp was going to have similar circuitry to the Dubai lamp, which is not sold in other countries, and while it does have the same concept of under-run LED filaments for long life and higher efficiency, it uses fairly standard circuitry inside. The one interesting feature of the circuitry, and also the bit that took me longest to reverse engineer because it caught me off-guard, is a novel design twist that reduces the voltage across the chip. The inclusion of transient clipping resistors and filtering should also add to the reliability. It's been pointed out that the circuit configuration will also increase the efficiency slightly, as the chip current will contribute to the LED current. I'm surprised that a linear regulator wasn't used as in many other lamps due to the simplicity. It's possible that this lamp has been in the design stages for a while and used buck regulator circuitry as a result of that. The choice of 100V filaments is possibly to cater for 120V and 230V options. Tuning filaments for linear regulators is a bit more complex than the multi LED arrays. The high cost of this lamp (I paid £12 at John Lewis in the UK) is purely for the life/efficiency features. In the right location it will pay its way by reducing power and maintenance costs. Especially where architects/designers have put light fittings in locations that make servicing them difficult or hazardous. In the home it could be useful in areas like halls and stairways where the lights are used a lot during the day. The 3000K white has a slight nudge in the green area of the spectrum, possibly to increase perceived intensity by giving it a peak in the area of human eye sensitivity. I'd guess that aside from the efficiency gain of under running the LEDs, a fair amount of engineering has probably gone into the phosphor choices too. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Glasgow had an era in the past where it had neon signs that rivalled Las Vegas, many of which were created by a company called Franco Signs. But they fell from architectural favour and at this point the Barrownland's sign is possibly the only "neon spectacular" left in Scotland. Special thanks to Jim Stinson and the other Barrowland technical crew for giving me a tour of all the technical bits, so we could see what makes the sign tick. The controller for this sign might not be what you expected in this electronic era. Here's a link to Georges Claude's Wikipedia page:- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Georges_Claude The Barrowland Wikipedia page:- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barrowland_Ballroom The manufacturer of the mechanical sign animators:- https://greatlakessignproducts.com/ (Check out their rotating contact high voltage flashers!) YESCO's website:- https://www.yesco.com/ (The Young Electric Sign Company were a big player in the Las Vegas sign industry.) Some videos of the Barrowland sign in action:- https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=barrowland+sign If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I think the best lesson that can be learned from this cheap USB disco light is the importance of supply rail decoupling in the vicinity of audio circuitry. There's an audio amplitude detector circuit that triggers continually when used on anything other than a perfectly noise free USB power supply. That said, it's a good demonstration of a simple electret microphone based audio detector with a minimalist single transistor amplifier. The lens projects fairly good beams of light from the hard-driven (50mA) LEDs, so it might find use in other projects. The light came from a UK pound-shop called One Below. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The first time I got one of these tickets it took me by surprise. I was used to the magnetic stripe tickets when they switched to a paper ticket with RFID circuitry inside. The Glasgow Subway is the third oldest underground railway in the world, and is completely underground for its whole route. It's a very simple system with two continuous tracks, an inner and outer circle. If you miss your stop you can either get off at the next station and get the first train back, or just go right round the whole loop again. It takes about 20 minutes. It's a single fare system whether you're going a single stop or to the furthest station. While preparing the video I discovered that they have a reusable plastic card that will possibly give all-day use for the cost of a disposable return ticket. Here's the Glasgow Subway's Wikipedia page:- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glasgow_Subway The company that makes the tickets and cards for the Subway has a website here:- https://www.confidex.com/ Card data is:- Card state - valid Card issuer ITSO (Compact Shell) Expiry date N/A Number of tickets - 1 No ID found. Journey Ticket (Space Saving) Operator - SPT Subway Expiry Date - 18/07/2017 Purses - None Found. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I thought this was going to be a gimmick, but it's actually very good. Even the slightest movement will make the LEDs light. The construction is strongly reminiscent of the first shake lights, but there are some unusual twists - notably the hollow core neodymium iron boron magnet. I don't know if that creates a stronger peripheral field. The circuit boards are refreshingly simple, and yet the results are very good. This is a three magnet system with the central floating magnet and the end magnets that hold it gently in a central position so it moves back and forth in the coil with very little disturbance. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This seems to be a very common little light. It clips onto your phone to provide illumination from all directions and avoid shadows. This one came from a UK Pound shop called One Below, and cost around £2. Not bad for the functionality and components. I've tried this style of light for macro shots, but it tends to give a lot of reflections in shiny objects. For my PCB photos I use a much wider ring of LEDs. It's interesting that the PCB clearly has the functionality of being USB rechargeable for use with a lithium cell. Although those component positions were unpopulated I still reverse engineered that area and added it to the schematic. Both parts of the assembly are well worth the small cost of the unit. The LED ring can be powered directly from a USB supply with suitable resistors to limit the current to around 360mA (36 LEDs at around 10mA) I'd guesstimate around 5.6ohms at 2W. There's one component position I didn't mention. The resistor between the gate/base of the transistor and 0v rail. It's for a pull down resistor to allow the use of a MOSFET. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

How to use the classic STC-1000 clone thermostats, and a look at the circuitry inside them. I think the original version of these units may be Elitech. These modules are shockingly cheap for what is effectively an industrial control module. It's almost as if the software got out into the wild and everyone started cloning them in a common style of case. As with all generic grey-import products you should only consider them for personal projects and prototypes. For professional or critical applications it's probably better to go with a higher profile unit for better construction standards and higher operational stability. That especially applies to where higher current loads are being switched. Although these claim to be able to switch compressors and heaters I would only recommend doing so via an external rugged high current relay. I'd also suggest a 12V DC system as the 12V relay coils are more rugged. If you search on eBay for STC-1000 you'll find a lot of these at wildly different prices. Cost is not an indication of quality and what you get will be completely random - even when two are ordered from the same seller. Here's a super compact guide to programming them. The two main settings are temperature and differential (hysteresis), where the differential is the difference from the set temperature and is where the heating or cooling will kick in. The compressor delay setting is to avoid rapid cycling of the compressor to prevent it stalling by starting under pressure. The calibration function lets you tune the accuracy of the thermistor. Press the up arrow briefly to check the main temperature setting. Press the down arrow briefly to check the differential setting. To change a setting press the "S" button for a few seconds to enter setting mode, and use the arrows to step up and down through functions F1 to F4. To adjust the chosen setting press the "S" button briefly to display its current setting, and press and hold "S" while using the arrow keys to change the setting. If no button is pressed for a very ungenerous four seconds the unit will exit setting mode. On some units the settings may not be stored unless the power button is pressed briefly while in setting mode. F1 sets the required temperature. These units only operate in Celsius. F2 sets the differential in degrees where the relays activate either side of the main setting. F3 sets the compressor delay to between 0 and 10 minutes. F4 lets you nudge the calibration of the thermistor to match a more accurate thermometer. The temperature sensor is a very common 10K NTC thermistor. (10K ohms at 25C) If the sensor is open or short circuit the unit displays EE. Try to keep the sensor cable away from mains voltage wiring to avoid display instability. To turn the unit on and off you can press and hold the power button, but this is NOT safe isolation/disconnection for working on wiring. It will self-reset to on with a power cycle. To reset to factory default settings press and hold both arrow buttons simultaneously. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

An unusual laundry detergent product that I got the urge to explore. It's detergent in convenient dry sheet form. You put 1 or 2 sheets into the washing machine with your clothes and they instantly dissolve into the water as the detergent. Each spongy-feeling sheet weighs about 1.2g each and when dissolved in warm water they do make it "soapy". I'm not sure how much concentrated detergent they equate to, but then again - most liquid products do tend to contain quite a lot of water. A translation loosely interprets the ingredients as:- Ethoxylated sodium alkyl sulfate (surfactant?) Coconut oil fatty acid (commonly used in soaps?) Diglycolic acid ammonium (limescale chelating agent?) Glycerin (humectant and emulsifier) Dibutyl hydroxytoluene (anti oxidant?) Diaminoethylene tetraacetate (EDTA chelating agent?) Anionic surfactant (vague!) Acaricide (anti-mite) There's also a mild aroma present of the type often called "fresh linen" by the chemical aroma industry. Note that these sheets may be designed for high efficiency washing machines which initially just add enough water to soak the clothes. This maximises detergent concentration and also increases friction between the clothes during tumbling. The later rinse cycles use a lot more water. I doubt these will have much effect in a top-loader that uses a bazillion gallons of water and buckets of detergent. The sheets are also suitable for hand washing, so could be a handy travel aid. There are lots of warnings about not eating them, getting the stuff in your eyes and leaving them where kids might find them. They also suggest not storing them in damp areas so they don't turn into goo, and not putting them into a dryer. I bought a box of 90 sheets for £7.60 shipped within the UK from this listing:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224643900030 Keywords are - 90PCS laundry detergent sheet Note that the "90pcs" bit finds the Chinese ones. The price should be around £$€10 or less. Let me know if you think it's viable to have the raw concentrated cleaning chemicals in such a compact form, or if it's a gimmick that is marginally better than washing the clothes in plain water. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Some very small modules designed to transfer power wirelessly for battery charging or direct powering of sealed devices. The power transfer is low, but perfectly suitable for low current devices. Standby current with no load is about 24mA at 5V, so about a tenth of a watt. For best coupling the antennas have to be close together, so cases should be thin and flat, preferably with an alignment guide. The reason the normal wireless LEDs wouldn't light with this coil is due to their tuned LC circuit being optimised for a different frequency. My simple coil with inverse parallel LEDs will work at a wide range of frequencies. Here's the AliExpress listing I got these from:- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003173949105.html If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

At first I thought this was just a gimmick to sell naughty devices on eBay, disguised as being an electronic tool. But in reality, it works really well for the suggested application. The idea is that a heater in a ceramic cup evaporates solid rosin, as used in solder flux, and allows you to deposit a layer of condensed droplets onto a faulty circuit board. This creates a white layer over the surface that re-melts when heated by a faulty component. The white powdery coating is actually a layer of tiny rosin spheres that act a bit like reflective paint to create the white colour. When it melts with heat it converts back to liquid and exposes the hot component. The search keywords for this device are:- rosin atomizing pen Target price around 12 £$€. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Another video on restricted advertising for being about a vaping device. (Despite not actually promoting vaping.) While buying further disposable vapour devices for technical exploration, I got a larger capacity one to see if it had a decent rechargeable lithium cell inside. The first one I got had malfunctioned horribly inside the packaging and purged out a large amount of its glycol schmoo into the sealed plastic wrapper. Instead of returning it to the shop (I hate doing stuff like that), I decided it would be much more fun to take it to bits and see what had gone wrong. Spoilers below:- The unit had been triggering repeatedly inside the packaging, and had basically turned the liquid into vapour that had then recondensed outside the device. The lack of airflow as it did so and the repeated false triggering had effectively used most of the liquid from the absorbent carrier material and then self destructed the heater by burning the wick material. Given that these things ship with a fully charged lithium cell, it makes me wonder if it could have been worse. As it is, the cell still had a safe level of charge and happily took a further charge suggesting it is a fully rechargeable cell. Such a waste in a disposable device. This device was also notable for containing liquid that did not have benzoic acid in it, which is added to "high profile industry brand devices" to try and get closer to the addiction level as their combustible versions. It must make them distraught that they have to actually list the ingredients. As with all these devices the most toxic components are probably the flavourings. And this unit contained air freshener grade levels. But still a safer option for existing users of the old combustible type. I don't know why I'm being so cryptic here. It'll probably get demonetized anyway. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I bought one of these bases on AliExpress a while ago to experiment with using it to illuminate 3D printed covers. It looks really good, and is a very easy way to make custom illuminated ornaments. No woodturning or electronic skills are required to make this project, although it will require a 3D printer if you wish to make custom covers. It can also be used with other clear or translucent objects. It's powered by a USB power supply, so would be safe for many applications, including as night lights, or as a convenient and stylish off-grid ornament. The openscad script is down below, and is already sized for this base with its 33mm hole. (You may need to file off any flanging that occurs on the first layer. (I like to lay that first layer down hard for better adhesion.) I printed this in clear PLA, which works well. You could also use coloured PLA if desired for a different effect with reduced light output. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators Here's the openscad script. When adjusting the variables at the top, make sure you don't accidentally delete the "=" or the ";" on either side of the variable, as they are part of the script. //Lamp cap quartz crystal. //You can adjust the five variables below base=33; //Diameter of base for lamp rim=4; //Length of rim at base size=55; //Diameter of crystal scaling=1.5; //Scale of crystal length (default 1.5) facets=6; //number of faces (default 6) //Don't change variables below here halfsize=size/2; upper=halfsize-(base/2)+rim; $fn=facets; difference(){ union(){ //outer body translate([0,0,0]) cylinder(h=4+rim,d1=base,d2=base,$fn=100); translate([0,0,-(base/2)+rim]) cylinder(h=halfsize,d1=0,d2=size); translate([0,0,upper]) cylinder(h=size*scaling,d1=size,d2=size/2); translate([0,0,upper+size*scaling]) cylinder(h=size/4,d1=size/2,d2=0); } //Inner core. translate([0,0,-1]) cylinder(h=6+rim,d1=base-2,d2=base-2,$fn=100); translate([0,0,-(base/2)+rim+1]) cylinder(h=halfsize-1,d1=0,d2=size-2); translate([0,0,upper]) cylinder(h=size*scaling,d1=size-2,d2=(size/2)-2); translate([0,0,upper+size*scaling]) cylinder(h=(size/4)-1,d1=(size/2)-2,d2=0); translate([-halfsize,-halfsize,-halfsize]) cube([size,size,halfsize]); }

I'll guess that the main use for this tube will be in window displays or theming. It provides a nice splash of vibrantly coloured light. The construction is different to what I was expecting. The tube opened easily, but kinda self-destructed in the process. I'm guessing the LED strip is glued on with a custom jig. The driver chip is very minimalist, but I wonder if linear regulators are going to be the standard from now on. In hindsight, the live connection being repeated at one end may be due to the design possibly being for use in retrofit tubes with a feed at both ends. The LED PCB would then have an extra power track on it. Those tubes have lost favour due to posing a shock risk to maintenance operatives putting them into live fixtures. I got this tube from this UK eBay listing:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332843575855 They do 2', 4' and 5' versions. I ordered the shortest, partly because it was less likely to get destroyed in the post. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A close look at a COB-style LED module as used for signage illumination. I chose blue so we would be able to see the bare LED chips. These low voltage modules are used as an alternative to neon and fluorescent tubes inside signage. They have the huge advantages of being relatively safe to install and being very flexible about how they can be placed inside channel letters. As always with LED strips and modules, it makes sense to slightly under-run them for longer life at the cost of slightly reduced intensity. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Despite the name, Poundland isn't actually a sex shop. It's the UK equivalent of a dollar store. That said, they do actually sell a range of sex toys in the medicines area. I saw this on their Valentine's Day display and decided to go back and get one a week later to take apart. The shelf was bare! There was just one left and that was probably because the box had clearly been opened. The circuitry is OK. It's actually more sophisticated than I was expecting. I can't actually test the units functionality for its intended purpose though, due to my lack of the lady-bits required. But when placed against a hand it does make notable sucking popping noises. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I'm not sure what application this bare mains voltage LED tape is intended for, but the implication in the listing that it can be used under kitchen cabinets, in bathrooms and children's play rooms may not be appropriate. Despite operating at full mains voltage, this tape can still be cut every 100mm (4") and does not need an external rectifier. It achieves this with built in rectifiers, multi-chip LEDs and current limiting resistors. Rather pleasingly it doesn't grill them for a change - even on a 245 volt supply. The listing actually showed a linear current regulator on each section, but the tape that arrived has resistors. That's fine. It means there may be a slight intensity change with voltage fluctuations, but the resistors are going to be much more reliable than an active component. The track spacing is squirmy for the voltages involved. This tape is not suitable for use anywhere with even the slightest risk of condensation forming, and if mounted onto a metal backing there is very little between mains voltage and the surface it's mounted on. Even hygroscopic adhesive could pose an issue. The only places this tape could be used are in well insulated or grounded enclosures to avoid the risk of it being touched. The possibility of the tape parting from its adhesive would have to be considered, and it definitely needs a low value fuse. It's interesting stuff, but it has very niche uses. The listing I got it from is here:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324757770303 If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

An outdoor PIR switch that popped a fuse, and when a new one was put in it glowed orange inside before blowing the new fuse. This unit is an excellent example of design by someone with no real experience of PCB design involving 120/240V. The one routed anti-tracking slot is almost a token gesture inclusion to distract from all the other places tracks with high voltage difference between them pass close together. Tracking is when moisture or other contaminants cause a carbon track to gradually form across a surface between tracks and pads. Once it reaches a significant level it can start conducting current and flash over. It's also an excellent demonstration of why prominent branded units often include a thermal fuse in the vicinity of relay contacts to kill the unit if any significant contact arcing occurs. This is especially important with small relays with low contact gaps. Some loads, especially inductive ones, can cause sustained arcing between open contacts. In the wrong circumstances, this unit could have caused a fire. Especially if protected by a high value fuse. The dropper capacitors in these units tend to degrade over time and reduce in value. This one was a 560nF capacitor that had dropped to 400nF. It was probably still enough to do the job, but would have reduced the current available to the circuitry, possibly affecting the relay's operation. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

An AA (Automobile Association) light that was sent by Robert for our exploration. The circuitry is minimalist and interesting, the LED mounting and reflector are good, but the battery itself is a bit lacklustre, and the intensity rapidly declines with battery voltage. The choice of a lead-acid battery is odd. If I was being cynical I might ponder whether this was China's way of getting rid of its "toxic" metals. Still lots of scope for hacking and customisation though. This is also the video where I realised that the word "PISH" is very "Glasgow". To quote:- "Pish. Translation: Urine. However, in Glasgow and other parts of Scotland, it's a common word for something that evokes a negative vibe." This light is "Complete and utter PISH!" If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators #landfill

A gloriously dumb USB powered NiMH and NiCad battery charger that will guarantee a full charge every time, but only if you're not in a rush. A trashy 500mAh cell will take about a day to charge, while a luxuriously high capacity cell could take most of a week to charge - but will be charged right to the hilt and not be harmed in the process. The unit uses low current trickle-charging at between 20-30mA to ensure a safe charge at a low enough level to allow the inherent feature of self catalysis of end of charge gas bubbles back into liquid electrolyte with low pressure buildup. Can also be powered by a 5 or 6V solar panel and will use whatever solar energy there is to put some charge into the cells. The PCBs can be cascaded with a common power buss to create an array of up to 40 charge positions from a common 1A charger. Each cell is charged completely independently from the others and has a diode to prevent backfeed when power is removed or there is no solar power available. Individual LEDs to indicate charging status. Choose whatever LED colour you like. Power indicator LED is optional and can also be any colour of LED. There are four 3mm mounting holes for feet or for mounting the PCB to a panel. I'd recommend against having the panel loose amongst metalwork on a bench in case the back gets shorted out. This trickle charging system is perfect for the newer NiMH low self discharge cells. It's basically creating a better than fresh-out-the-pack level of charge. Here's a link to the gerber zip file for getting PCBs made. YouTube prevents a direct link to a zip file for security reasons, so you will have to copy and paste the link into another browser tab. www.bigclive.com/NIMH.zip If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A look through a microscope at a high voltage 24-LED array in a tiny 2835 style package. Quick correction, I worked out that roughly 18V is being dropped across the linear regulator. Not 18mA like I said. The combined voltage of the LEDs is so high that very little more has to be dropped across the regulator. That keeps its temperature down. If it did get too hot it would probably self regulate the current down further. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I got the urge to make a battery connector that fits on my Ryobi or Parkside power tool batteries. Thingiverse had lots of designs, but they all seemed quite complicated and would have taken a while to print, so I designed super minimalist versions that print in less than 15 minutes. For both battery connectors the contacts are standard male spade-crimps. It was the easiest way to get a plated copper contact, and it turned out that they are a good fit in both designs. The current rating should be good, but don't push things too far. An inline fuse is a good option if there is a risk of the powered device short circuiting. The Parkside batteries are sold by Lidl, but may be available as a different brand outside Europe. Note that some battery packs do not have internal overdischarge protection, so care should be taken to avoid discharging the packs below around 3V per cell. For an 18/20V pack that's usually around 15V. The Ryobi one is ugly but functional. I may revisit the design later to add a cup for gluing the terminals in more neatly. The scripts are down below. Copy and paste them into openscad to create your STL files or use them as a base for your own version. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators Here's the Parkside openscad script:- //Parkside battery mini adaptor //Use with two male spade crimps difference(){ union(){ //main block cube([46,20,10]); } //side slides translate([-1,5,5]) cube([6,21,6]); translate([41,5,5]) cube([6,21,6]); translate([4,5,-1]) cube([3.5,20,12]); translate([38.5,5,-1]) cube([3.5,20,12]); //Terminal cutouts translate([8.5,1,1]) cube([6,18,10]); translate([31.5,1,1]) cube([6,18,10]); //terminal slots translate([10.5,17,1]) cube([2,10,10]); translate([33.5,17,1]) cube([2,10,10]); //cable slots translate([10,-1,4]) cube([3,10,10]); translate([33,-1,4]) cube([3,10,10]); //plastic and time saver translate([15.5,1,1]) cube([15,18,10]); } Here's the Ryobi openscad script:- //Ryobi adaptor $fn=50; height=20; difference(){ union(){ //main block cylinder(h=height,d=29); translate([-14.5,0,0]) cube([29,20.5,height]); } //battery recess translate([0,0,1]) cylinder(h=height,d=27); translate([-13.5,0,1]) cube([27,19.5,height]); //terminal slots translate([-12.5,3.5,-1]) cube([2,7,5]); translate([10.5,3.5,-1]) cube([2,7,5]); //polarity markings translate([-7,6.5,-1]) cube([5,1,5]); translate([4,4.5,-1]) cube([1,5,5]); translate([2,6.5,-1]) cube([5,1,5]); } //Pressure plates translate([-14.5,3.5,0]) cube([2,7,14]); translate([12.5,3.5,0]) cube([2,7,14]);

I was using this tape above my computer for ambient illumination. Over time it imperceivably changed from warm white light to a dull orange glow. When it got the point that I couldn't identify component colour bands I decided to take a closer look. The gel they use to make it waterproof (more like splash-proof) has degraded through exposure to the blue/violet wavelength of the light. Directly above the LED chips it had gone so brown that it was blocking and colouring the light. Initially I thought it was the phosphor that had degraded, but when the coating is cleaned off the LED it is as bright as when new. The LED strip was being under-run for long life, but it shows that the LEDs themselves aren't the only factor in optical degradation. This is a good reminder that you should always treat LED tape as a consumable, and ensure it can be replaced easily in the future. Here's the original video where I hacked the LED into an old strip light:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_ds5XFJvPs If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

These strings of LED modules are commonly used for illumination in signage with 12V and 24V power supplies. But these are the first I've seen that run directly from the mains supply. Obviously I had to buy a string and take one apart.... Things worthy of note. The mains voltage strings allow long lengths to be run directly. That removes the need for DC power supplies, but adds the risk that one dead module might take out a lot of LEDs and be tricky to pinpoint unless it's gone sooty inside. The AC LED modules cause camera flicker, although it's not too bad visually. The DC ones have no flicker. They seem to be popular for use in other lighting applications too like vehicle lighting. You can dim the AC ones with a capacitor in series. I tried a 100nF 400V film cap in series with a string of 9 and it reduced the total power to less than a watt. These modules are also available in various colours and shades of white. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

It seems like every famous brand is being slapped on what are a very standardised LED lamp these days. Here's the Kodak version. The video also shows the classic "dooby" resistor hack to make the lamp last a LOT longer at a slightly reduced intensity. (Called Dooby after the Dubai long life lamps.) Note that the circuitry in the lamp is at full mains voltage when powered, so should be removed from the lamp holder completely before working on it, and should not be handled while powered. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

My brother's kittens having a play fight. They have their own channel here:- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSNCFCglLxZzeEdEErBxT6A

On one hand this germicidal UVC fitting is quite well made, and on the other hand it has minimalist circuitry with a hidden trap. The output power of this germicidal light is low, but still enough to cause skin irritation and temporary surface damage to your eyes. (Arc-eye. Feels like sand in your eyes.) I'd guess it's designed for sterilisation of small enclosures. The unit can take the ozone producing version of the GTL3 lamp too if you can source a real one. Never use UVC germicidal light in areas that pets, humans or plants can be exposed to it. This unit came from Banggood. (Not a sponsor or affiliate link.) https://www.banggood.com/UVC-UV-Lamp-Ultraviolet-Light-Bulb-3W-110-or-220V-Blacklight-p-1664546.html If the manufacturer had added a 1/2W 470K resistor across the capacitor it would have reduced the risk of shock by helping to discharge the capacitor quickly. A video just about the GTL3 lamp:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBrLeOVBCaE If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A novel twist on a vintage set of soviet neon fairy lights (Christmas lights) that I saw online. I've already made a version with loose resistors and multiple layers of heat shrink sleeving, but thought that a tiny PCB with surface mount resistors on it would make it easier to build. The PCBs are double sided and have a large pad for soldering the looped power cables to, with a section of the fibreglass PCB at the base designed to provide good separation of the ends of the cables in case of cheeky strands or sleeve meltage. The live is on one side, and the neutral on the other, to provide excellent separation. There are two 1206 sized resistors on either side, which could be classed as overkill, but spreads the heat dissipation and also increases the electrical rating. The neon solders to the end with one leg on either side of the PCB, and the whole assembly is then covered with one or two layers of heat shrink sleeving. This string of neons is only really aimed at the geeks who love novel lighting items. It is way less efficient than a set of diffused orange LEDs. It also has a spicier voltage running along it. Assembly was easy, but a touch of flux could be a good idea while reflowing the pre-soldered pads during installation of the wires and neons. It was an easy, and pleasant string of lights to make, and the resultant diffused orange glowing lamps are very gentle on the eye. I used four 56K resistors in series for a total of 224K on a 240V supply. For 120V the value will be much lower. Here's the PCB file. Note that it is a single PCB and not a panel of them. It seems a lot cheaper to order them individually anyway. The PCB is so small that JLC's page doesn't fill in the size. It's 8mm by 24mm. YouTube may block the direct link to a zip file. If clicking the link doesn't work, copy and paste it into a new browser window. http://www.bigclive.com/neonfairy.zip If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Two of these 12/24V lithium battery chargers really aren't! It makes me wonder if they're part of the reason they were selling off the product these were in at a really low price. (Hi-viz vests with LED strips.) I wonder what the story behind these is. Were they bought separately for shipping with the product or were they sourced by an offshore manufacturer? Either way, the proper one has been substituted with random look-a-likes that have VERY different circuitry inside and have very little in the way of current limiting. Especially if an attempt is made to use them with 24V as implied on the label. The product itself has it's own video. It's notable for having a three cell 2000mAh lithium battery in thin heat shrink sleeving at waist height on clothing aimed at construction workers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A new twist on a style of LED lamp I've featured before. But now it's super-refined and optimised for easy manufacture and ruggedness to make shipping easier. The whole assembly is pretty neat and could inspire some DIY designs based on the same filament channel idea. Should be fairly easy to 3D print in a transparent or translucent filament. Here's a link to the Aliexpress listing this lamp came from. Note that the more expensive ones are physically bigger. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003357188330.html If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This unofficial PSU exploded and took out an expensive tablet and the monitor it was connected to. It could have been worse. The fault could have delivered a significant and sustained electric shock from any exposed metal on the tablet. If you have an identical style of power supply, then I recommend binning it and buying the real thing. At the very least check for the same issue, although that will involve breaking it open. This unit has the model number DHM1800 and no serial number or traceability. Other names and numbers may be used, so go by the shape and origin. Don't use cheap power supplies with expensive equipment. At the very least it may impair it's operation. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

It turns out that this LED safety vest is made by a company in the Netherlands, and that makes me wonder if it's aimed primarily at cyclists, as they are BIG on their bikes over there for general commuting. The company still seems to exist under a slightly different name:- https://lightvest.com/en/ If I have to be honest, I feel a bit uncomfortable about the idea of having an uncased lithium cell array built into work clothing, as a puncture from a tool, sharp metal or even just leaning against a cherry picker cage or wall could initiate something very unpleasant. I also don't care for the safety industry's ongoing desire to invent more and more ways to make construction workers look like clowns. Maybe it's an empowerment thing. This vest came from an eBay seller who is/was selling them off at a very low price as if they're clearing out the stock. Ignore the bit about the entire thing being machine washable. It's not. Also be aware that it will arrive with the lithium cell discharged to the point of shutting off due to an odd design decision. Mine did charge, and the cell capacity checked out OK. Note that some of the 12/24V chargers are not suitable for use at all, as they contain no proper current limiting other than the cable itself! I'll show that in another video. Here's the link, but note that it's UK only and they may already be sold out. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184753506996 An unexpected effect of Patreons getting the videos earlier for critique is that they also get first dibs on any juicy links to products before they sell out or the price starts going up. Just the component value of a 12V 2000mAh protected lithium pack with charger would cover a year of Patreon contributions alone. (Just a dollar or two a month.) With the bonus of extra live streams. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

It turns out that my guess of 100VA was a bit old fashioned. This thing was rated a mere 20VA (20W). Not that it matters much, because it's now rated 0VA because the thermal fuse has failed. Most likely because of a high load being plugged into the outlet. These shaver sockets are used in the UK to provide a transformer isolated 115/230V supply for safer use of things like shavers, and recharging things like toothbrushes and lady-toys. This unit was sent for our exploration by Thomas Nagy:- https://www.youtube.com/c/thomasnagy If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Thomas sent me this dead light a while ago. It turned out to have an interesting bit of power supply circuitry that is a complete mind bender. Thomas's channel can be found here:- https://www.youtube.com/c/thomasnagy (He's taken a break from making videos recently while moving workshop.) These lights are just landfill waiting to happen. A lot of materials that will be trashed because the manufacturers are designing them to fail to ensure ongoing revenue. It would be so easy to make them last over 10 times longer. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A brief summary of NiMH cells and their charging techniques, and why smart chargers are usually not so smart. Nickel Metal Hydride cells are almost a legacy cell, in that they are designed to literally fill the gap of alkaline and zinc cells. In reality, lithium ion technologies are a much better option for future products. But where it's useful to be able to swap cells for instant power replenishment the NiMh cells have a safety advantage over lithium cells. Things worthy of note in this video. Smart chargers may not recognise a fully discharged NiMH cell. If the cell is given a slight boost from another cell or slow (dumb) charger, the smart charger will recognise it again and charge it. If a cell is old or has low capacity, a smart charger may end the charge cycle prematurely - sometimes within a minute. If that happens, check the cell has clean contacts and if that doesn't help then it can be charged to its absolute full capacity reliably in a traditional dumb charger that doesn't do any end of charge monitoring. I almost forgot to mention the Rayovac IC3 charging technology. I think the product failed because it was sold as premium technology at a high price. It was the ultimate in precise and fast charging, allowing a 2000mAh cell to be charged in just 15 minutes with no risk of venting. Other brands tried to compete using thermal charge end detection, but they were nowhere near the simplicity and reliability of the IC3 system. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A nice simple device for a change. This is a battery or cell tester that I've been using for a while. It's extremely ungenerous in its test, so I've always used it as a rough guide as opposed to being an accurate indication of cell state. Since Grant sent me a new one, I thought I'd take the old one apart, and decided to make a video about it. I didn't remove the PCB from the meter in the new unit, but I did go back and measure the combined circuit resistance. So if you're up for a puzzle.... 3 resistors in parallel measure 162 ohm. If the known resistors are 3820 ohm and 564 ohm, then what is the value of the unknown resistor. (The meter's coil impedance.) Answer is at bottom of description. I think this may be a 2mA FSD coil. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators Mystery resistance is around 242 ohms.

MRE's (Meal Ready to Eat) are normally issued as military rations, or to workers during disaster recovery works. They're fascinating. Like a mystery meal in a bag with lots of extras. Someone once described them as happy meals for adults, and I agree. It's worth mentioning that you could make your own version for much less, but it would lack the mystery and authenticity of the real thing. There's also the fun of trying other countries foods. This one came from an eBay seller based in Russia who ships to Europe:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/lowestpriceru/m.html You may find other sellers willing to ship to the USA, although the massive USA postal politics may affect that. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

It appears this is an older model, but the technology is the same. UV-A light from LEDs is shone onto titanium dioxide and causes a photocatalytic reaction that involves hydroxyl radicals and other reactions that deactivate viruses, bacteria and fungal spores. This version is designed for cars or other small spaces, and is powered by a USB C cable. This unit uses around 1.4W, but a newer version has more LEDs and uses around 2W. In operation it is virtually silent, as it just circulates air at low level through an active mesh. The mesh material may be foamed nickel treated with titanium dioxide. It is apparently much more efficient than the older coated honeycomb materials. The instructions with the unit encourage you to pop the mesh out of its frame from time to time, wash it and then dry it with a hairdryer before putting it back in. Titanium Dioxide is a very common material used in paints as a brilliant white pigment. It is also classed for use in food at low levels, although there is some controversy as to whether it is safe. That includes some suspicious science and rumours about nano-particles getting into children's brains. (Won't somebody think of the children.) It's hard to tell if this science is the product of career narcissists or if it has validity. Especially when you can type in almost any food ingredient and find the same sort of scaremongering. This is one of these things that I can't actually prove whether it works or not without extensive lab testing. The technology does appear to be real, but there's no visible effect, as it is working at atomic level on invisible stuff like bacteria and viruses. I'll try to get one of the new units to compare the insides. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

You know how you sometimes get a strong desire to attach things to your vehicle dashboard with cheap double sided tape? Solar powered things that have a chemical disk in them with a nondescript aroma? And when the sun shines on it, it starts spinning and vibrating at high speed while you're trying to concentrate on the road? Well here it is. You're welcome. eBay search keywords are solar power car aroma. On a plus note, it does have a nice solar panel and motor, although it would probably be cheaper to buy them individually. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A look at a very common little atomiser module sold on eBay. This style of circuit is often found in the USB powered desktop humidifiers that use a wick and piezo disk to put a visual stream of moisture into the air. This is a very minimalist circuit, which makes it very interesting. There's no feedback, so the microcontroller is just banging out a rough 110kHz to the 16mm piezo disk. I really went to town on reverse engineering this module, including desoldering and measuring all the capacitors, and unwinding the little transformer to count the windings and measure the wire diameter. To find these on eBay search for - usb humidifier module It's often cheaper to buy a multipack, plus that gives you spares. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

These wireless LEDs seem to be aimed at modellers to allow them to add lights to models without any complex wiring. They work well, but are not bright. Fine for low level indoor lighting though, and the power use is less than one watt. I've seen other videos about them, but they don't go into much technical detail, so here's the video that does. It's intriguing that the system is based around a standard chip designed for inductive charging. It looks as though it could have other transformer drive applications too. Here's a link to the aliexpress listing I bought the coil from. It wasn't shown as being shipped with LEDs, but did come with some in my order. The current price is £5.78 plus shipping. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001225212166.html The MOSFET package on the PCB remained cool throughout my experiments, even when I put over 100 LEDs inside the loop and the current doubled. It was typically about 15C above ambient room temperature. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

It's a beanie with a USB rechargeable light from Poundland. Not bad circuitry, and a nice twist on the charging connector. The cell measured just short of 200mAh, so this light is OK for short spells of use, but might not be ideal as a work light unless you recharge it frequently. In a dark room it was useful as a general wash of light for navigation purposes. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A handy 3D script and guide to adjusting the parameters to make a custom tray to store your batteries or other cylindrical objects in a compact manner. Openscad is a very interesting piece of open source software that lets you create 3D objects with a raw scripting language, allowing complex results from very tight code. The openscad software can be downloaded here:- https://openscad.org/ The script for this project is included at the bottom of this description. You literally just copy and paste it into the text box of openscad to adjust it as desired, and create your own custom STL file for your 3D printing system. The six variables you can adjust are:- Width - The number of battery cups wide. Height - The number of battery cups high. Depth - The depth of the battery cups. Diameter - The internal diameter of the cups - slightly wider than your battery. Thickness - The thickness of the cup walls. Base - The thickness of the base. When adjusting the values, be careful not to remove the "=" and ";" as they are part of the script. To see your changes quickly, press the box with two arrows. To build the final object press the box with an hourglass in it. To save your custom STL file press STL. (After building with the hourglass button.) The STL file can then be used with your preferred slicer (I use Cura) to make the gcode file for your choice of 3D printer. I recommend making a single test cup (1X1) to test sizes before making a bigger tray of them. You can also just choose a width and height of 1 to make a single large cup for other purposes. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators Here's the openscad script. Copy and paste the text below into openscad to use it. //Custom battery tray - bigclivedotcom $fn=50; //You can adjust these variables. width=4; //number of horizontal cups height=4; //number of vertical cups depth=10; //internal depth of cups diameter=15; //diameter of cylinder AA=15 AAA=11 thickness=1; //thickness of wall base=1; //thickness of cup bases //don't adjust stuff below here columns=width-1; rows=height-1; wall=thickness*2; dia=diameter+thickness; cup=depth+base; difference(){ union(){ //main body for (x=[0:columns]){ for (y=[0:rows]){ translate([x*dia,y*dia,0]) cylinder(h=cup,d=diameter+wall); } } } //hollow cores for (x=[0:columns]){ for (y=[0:rows]){ translate([x*dia,y*dia,base]) cylinder(h=cup,d=diameter); } } }

This item was suggested by Eric, and reminded me of a similar one I bought a very long time ago. Not much has changed, except perhaps the strength of the magnet in the mini turbine and the efficiency of the LEDs. The unit is designed to stick onto your vehicles precious bodywork with double sided tape, and then makes a loud squealing noise and glows dimly when you drive fast enough. Note that this wouldn't work very well as an ambient wind powered light in your garden, as it requires quite a high airflow to spin it. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This appears to be a common fault with these units. If your heat link fails out of warranty it may be an easy fix to get it going again. Here are some simple tests that can be done on an unpowered unit to check that the rest of the circuitry is still working. Note that in the UK our boiler (furnace) control systems are usually 240V. In a way it might be better to adopt the American 24V system. Especially since electrical training standards have plummeted due to the activities of a financially motivated "voluntary electrical safety" company. All equipment associated with a heating system should be fed from just one circuit. Adding on other sections powered from other circuits can energise an isolated/disconnected system randomly via the control line. These units have been educational. I really like the use of two different electrolytic capacitors in parallel. As well as being shorter than a single high value capacitor, if one is later found to be prone to drying out, the other will keep the system running. Likewise the use of two diodes in series means that if one fails short circuit the other will keep the system running. The small extra cost of these extra components is massively dwarfed by the cost of a warranty return/repair. Especially when the unit has to be replaced by a technician. Note that the primary suspect component for failing is quite tricky to remove due to having a heatsink pad underneath. It is much easier to remove with two soldering irons being used as improvised heated tweezers. If you have doubts about desoldering and replacing the diode, then don't risk damaging the PCB. There are eBay sellers offering a fixed price repair service for these units. I wonder what replacement component they are fitting in the warranty exchange units. The original is an S3100. The one I used is a B360B - which is rated 3A and 60V. I can't guarantee that this is a perfect replacement. A diode rated 3A or higher and 100V or higher is probably a better option. I've since found out that the original package is called a Powerdi. Once I've got and tested some others in I'll add the stock numbers here. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A very simple project that allows you to pulse LEDs with no wiring or battery. The project uses a QI wireless charger to power some LEDs with nothing more than a coil of wire.

While I'm not a huge fan of using lithium cells a single time and then discarding them, I'm fine with a free source of rechargeable cells lying on the ground. These popular disposable inhaler devices are based around the same circuitry as the fully rechargeable ones, simply because it's the cheapest way to make them. I guess some people just want a quick easy fix and these Chinese made devices cater to that market. If you're willing to finger things that people have had in their mouth (Like coffee shop cups and pub glasses) then popping these devices open usually reveals a very useful rechargeable cell with a rating of between 250mAh to 600mAh. Perfect for replacing spent or faulty cells in many devices, noting that the salvaged cells don't have the usual protection PCB for overcharge, discharge and current protection. As long as the device they are used in has charge control on the PCB to limit the charge to 4.2V, then it should be fine. You could also stick a cell to one of the many TP4056 charge controller PCBs if you want the full works. All the cells I've tested have been fully rechargeable, but always proceed with caution when testing this, and never use damaged cells. Also make sure you wear disposable gloves if handling the fluid cartridges in these devices as they are aimed at hard-core smoke inhalers and have a high percentage of knicker-tin. If you want to go the full hog and reuse a complete device then the geek-bar one was the nicest and most reusable design for the technically inclined. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is a much simpler light than normal. Instead of the multiple options including continuous low light at dusk, switching to higher illumination when movement is detected, this unit just has a single function - switch on when movement is detected at night. Unlike many of the shady grey imports from eBay, this unit has the sort of protection that you'd expect to be associated with a big name trying to protect its reputation. There's still the issue of the lithium cell being outdoors in deep winter though. I emulated the lithium cell with the bench power supply and the LED current was as follows:- 4.2V 1100mA 3.5V 530mA 3V 289mA That's quite high for 12 ordinary LEDs in that style. After removing one of the resistors the current was 790mA at 4.2V Adding an extra resistor between one of the LED panel wires and it's PCB pad would allow a balance between night illumination level and the available daytime solar energy to keep the unit topped up. A value of 2.2ohms to 10 ohms could be used If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A look at the internal construction of a common type of low voltage LED filament that is often used to give the effect of a long coiled filament in decorative lamps. The 300mm (12") filaments have an illuminated section of about 285mm (11") with 200 LEDs in parallel along the length, running at around 3V. This makes them very easy to power with batteries or a USB power supply, using a couple of 10 ohm resistors in series. In a dim room they can be run at extremely low current to get a strong visible line of colour. Literally just a few milliamps. Here's a link to the Aliexpress page I bought these from:- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002433050598.html The 300mm versions should cost about £7-£10 for five including shipping. If they hike the price, consider other suppliers. There are other sellers with more expensive listings. I'm not sure if the filaments they are selling are a higher spec or if it's the same ones. If using these in a way that will allow lots of flexing, then I'd recommend reinforcing the ends with a short piece of 2.5mm heatshrink for strain relief. If using in a costume then make sure they can be removed and replaced easily. A link to the video that inspired me to try some of the filaments out:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zhe8d9NgcsI If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is an interesting twist. This air aroma unit has been completely redesigned to be more compact. I was expecting the circuitry to also have been minimised, but in reality it's similar to the original version with some interesting twists. The power supply for the chip was a bit of a mind bender. I've not see this approach taken before. The unit will operate down to about 3V so is suited for use with rechargeable AA cells. It's been pointed out that the parasitic diode in the MOSFET will bridge the current limited microcontroller supply to the battery voltage with a typical diode voltage drop. That means the microcontroller will only see the full 5V when the batteries are new. That voltage nudge will still potentially extend the run time on a set of batteries though. In hindsight, the crystal will also be providing accuracy to the 8 hours on - 16 hours off timer that this unit uses. The image on the non-track side of the PCB was reversed to aid reverse engineering, and yes their code name for the design seems to be maltesers. Candy codenames are a good way to go. Current draw while actively atomising is:- 400mA at 3V 340mA at 3.5V 280mA at 4V 250mA at 4.5V Standby current at 4.5V is less than 70uA Standby current at 3.5V is less than 30uA If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

These used to be all the rage in the 90's at the peak of Nokia's phone dominance. They were stickers that you could put on your phone, and they would collect some of the RF energy and use it to make some LEDs flicker. It was quite interesting, because it showed when your phone was randomly checking in with a remote tower, even when not being used for a call. The circuitry is very simple, but the diodes may be a high speed RF type. The diode packages I've spotted so far have been labelled C1, C3 and C2L. In an echo of the anti-5G hype there was also anti-2G, 3G and 4G (and in the future the same people will be anti-6G). Sometimes these stickers were aimed at those people and sold as radiation absorbing stickers, but in reality INCREASED the amount of RF they were exposed to. I've not had any luck getting the stickers to work on a modern phone. That may be because of the different frequencies, or simply the much reduced power that is needed to communicate with the local low-power beacons that have mostly replaced the older high power masts. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Story time. A very long time ago I was gazing in the shop windows of a large Glasgow department store called Lewis's. They had some unusual illuminated tubes in the window that had a plug-in power supply and a coiled cable leading to a very narrow plastic tube with a neon tube inside it. I asked a shop assistant if she knew where they got them from and she contacted the window dressing team who took me up to their workshop. They said they had been a bit unreliable and gave me a faulty one, warning me to be careful as one of their crew had received an electric shock from the wires while it was unplugged. Inside the plug was a circuit board potted in deep resin to hide the components. It had two spade terminals at either side - mains in and high voltage out. The label indicated which terminals were which and also gave a footage range for the neon (actually argon/mercury) tube. These units may have been made by Masonlite - a big player in neon sign components. I reverse engineered the circuit, carefully digging away at the resin to reveal the hidden components. Once I'd worked out the circuitry I started experimenting with DIY versions, and got some custom tubes made by a Glasgow based company called The Neon Workshop. It was always a pleasure visiting the Neon Workshop, as Donald the manager was a veteran of Glasgow's sign industry when it had competed with Las Vegas for big animated skyline signs made by a company called Franko Signs. It was interesting hearing about the older technology used in them. Running tubes on a DC multiplier does have some disadvantages. It restricts the length that can be run, only seems to work properly with mercury based tubes and has a side effect of causing mercury migration where the mercury vapour in the tube gradually moves to the negative end and either needs the polarity reversed, or the bead of mercury shaken back to the other end. The upside is that it is a very simple and cheap circuit that can be made with ordinary components. I've seen these used in some of the neon radios that were popular for a while. The clear case had the multiplier circuitry in full view. The use of multipliers also allows very simple circuitry to be used to animate short sections of tubes. I made a prototype module with four multipliers and opto-triacs that could connect to my fairground lighting control system. Note that the circuit I show in the video is a very basic 240V circuit suited to about 2' (600mm) of 12mm diameter tube. Using a longer tube may result in striking/flickering issues and a shorter one will put extra strain on the current limiting resistors. For 120V use or longer tubes it will be necessary to increase the number of multiplier stages with beefier capacitors for the first few stages and then a decent number of the 10nF capacitors to get the strike voltage. Treat the output as high voltage referenced to the mains supply. To quote a dutch friend (Dirk Boonstra) touching the output of these power supplies will blow all the hair out of your head. I used to use double insulated meter lead wire to connect to tubes with crocodile/alligator clips (while the power was on!), so it's a miracle I didn't get zapped. This circuit is presented for personal experimental use only. It's not really suited to commercial use, especially with the common availability of electronic neon power supplies. The DC mercury migration effect is what I was aiming for in the "M" tube. It has a deliberate dip in the middle to hold a droplet of mercury in an attempt to do a colour split when the mercury migrates through the neon carrier gas. Where just the neon is present the tube glows orange, but when the mercury vapour is present it glows blue. It works, but takes a VERY long time for the migration to occur. Although using the same science as a germicidal UVC tube, no significant amount of UV escapes from this tube due to the natural blocking characteristic of soda/lead glass. Compared to modern high frequency electronic power supplies, the simple DC multiplier produces much less electrical and RF noise. Possibly part of the reason they were used in the ornamental neon radios. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I didn't realise until recently that the USA defines sherbet as a sorbet with dairy products. In the UK it's a fizzy power used in sweets (candy). I would guess that it must exist under a different name in the USA, but if not, then here are a couple of super simple recipes to bang some together to try for yourself. Normal version:- 1 teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda (sodium bicarbonate). 1 teaspoon of citric acid. 3 teaspoons of icing/confectioners sugar. (Very fine sugar with 3% corn starch.) Extra sour version:- 1 teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda. 2 teaspoons of citric acid. 3 spoons of icing sugar. (UK name for confectioners sugar.) For both recipes, just mix the powders together thoroughly and it's done. A blender or grinder could be used to create a much finer mix. The sherbet powder can be used as a dip for licorice or lollipops, or you can add two heaped spoons to a glass of cold water and mix for an instant fizzy drink. The ingredients of the Barratt Sherbet Fountain (including the licorice) are listed as:- Sugar, treacle, wheat flour, cornflour, sodium bicarbonate, citric acid, tartaric acid, colour (caramel), liquorice extract, tri-calcium phosphate (anti-caking agent), aniseed oil. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

.Spoiler - it wasn't a capacitor. If attempting a repair like this then take extra care to ensure the power is off to the PCB. It has a lot of exposed live tracks on it. Do you remember when thermostats were cheap, simple and lasted for over 30 years? Welcome to the future where they are expensive, crammed with electronics and may not last a tenth of that. I think this one managed to scrape by its one year warranty period before ceasing to sense. I would categorise my test-bodge as a temporary measure to identify the fault. It would be better to get the proper component, although it's not an easy one to desolder. It may require more aggressive heat pen use and probably some careful masking with Kapton tape to protect adjacent components. In use the unit seems to run pretty cool. The two hottest components visible to the thermal camera were the PSU diode and the PSU primary side MOSFET, and neither of them was particularly hot. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This unit's quite old. I got it a long time ago to help dry and deodorize my work boots. In the end, the secret to keeping my work boots fresh was a tiny pinch of fine powder boric acid, which kills all fungal stuff stone dead. (including athletes foot). The construction of this and it's circuit design seems fairly sensible though. There's no microcontroller, so everything is done with discrete circuitry to add "features". The high voltage section has had the number scrubbed off its chip and black resin painted on some component identifiers, so it seemed a good idea to reverse engineer it as an act of defiance. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A look inside a typical tungsten lamp based water-ripple projector. This is a very generic Chinese clone style unit that lacks proper optical efficiency. It's designed to operate with a high output 12V 100W narrow beam lamp, but the high output lamps like that have a very short lifespan of around 50 hours. Using a lower power lamp or long-life lamp results in a much longer run time between lamp changes, but at the cost of intensity. Nowadays these projectors tend to use LED based light sources. The ripple mechanism remains very similar between larger units like this. Sometimes with a dichroic glass colour wheel that can operate independently or in conjunction with one of the ripple disks. The visual effect that these units produce is very subtle and soothing. Like a reflection from a pool or the sea. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Having just discovered yet another device with battery damage, I thought I'd raise the subject of switching away from zinc-chloride and alkaline single use cells, to the newer style of low self discharge Nickel Metal Hydride rechargeable cells. They are sometimes called "ready to use" or "pre-charged" cells due to retaining a useful capacity even when stored before retail. They won't work in all equipment due to their slightly lower cell voltage (1.2V vs 1.5V), but do work in most stuff, and are much less prone to leakage. The science of alkaline cell leakage may be down to the natural formation of gas bubbles during normal discharge. That results in a gradual increase in internal pressure that may eventually force the corrosive electrolyte out through the seal. That could be during normal use of a new battery, or it could be a long term thing when batteries have been left in a piece of equipment. Rechargeable cells like NiMh batteries do generate gas internally during charge, but self catalyse it back to liquid electrolyte internally. It usually takes serious overcharging to make them vent. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I got this a while ago to see how it looked and how serviceable it is. The circuitry is unusual, and seems to be making a lot of effort to protect against damage to the unit by arcing/transients that can damage some capacitive dropper based lights. The current regulation is also very unusual in that it uses a voltage regulator with a fixed resistor as a load to act as a crude current regulator. Construction of the unit is quite smart, but makes repair very difficult. So when an LED fails open circuit the entire fitting is pretty much toast. That means the only way to get the light working again is to remove and replace the whole fitting, which is not a good direction to go, as it can force homeowners to attempt electrical work themselves in a wet outdoor environment. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This unit is an older style fibre optic illuminator that has a 150W metal halide lightsource, and a rotating effects wheel for sweeping colours and ripples across fibre optic bundles. Universal Fibre Optics (UFO) have some very neat looking LED based light engines now. Their website can be found here:- https://www.fibreopticlighting.com/index If I can find my demonstration bundle of fibres and emitters I'll feature them in a different video. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A brief exploration of three styles of wiring used in common low voltage light strings. These circuits and repairs are only for the low voltage sets of lights that run from battery, solar, USB or plug in power supplies. Note that for the two/three wire flashing/effects strings the circuitry is similar to the 3-wire strings, but with the LEDs alternating polarity along the string. If rejoining a damaged set then the incorrect polarity of the two LED wires will cause a colour change at that point in the string during flashing effects. The difference in recording environment is a temporary thing due to catching covid right at the start of a short trip to Glasgow, that has turned into a much longer stay to comply with self isolation times. I recovered quickly and the lat flow tests strip line faded fast, but I decided to play safe and extend my stay for as long as possible before travelling. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

It's a while since this stuff first appeared, but I wanted it to standardise and come down to a more realistic price before featuring it. That has now happened, along with a myriad of colours, voltages and strip widths. The main difference between COB strip and standard LED strip is that instead of using widely spaced high output LEDs, the COB version uses a lot of tiny ones spaced closely together behind a common line of phosphor loaded gel. That results in a very sharp linear line of light. To achieve the high LED density they have used the very clever flip-chip LEDs that are widely used on large COB arrays. These are basically bare LED chips with pads on the base to allow them to be soldered directly to PCBs like a conventional surface mount component. It's worth mentioning that this 1-metre (3'3") 5V strip drew over 2A when powered, so it is best suited to short sections. For longer runs use 12V or 24V strip that achieves the same power at lower current. For even intensity along the length on long runs, feed the positive from one end and negative from the other. As with conventional LED strip you can nudge the intensity and current down by varying the voltage slightly. This 5V stuff still produces a good visual line of light at 3V. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I suppose this could be a nice effect on the front of a house in the winter months. It's a water-resistant ripple projector that runs on a 5V supply, and has radio remote control to select the colour and speed. Fairly textbook design, and produces a nice effect. I guess the original design was possibly based on a non-aluminium core PCB, as the ability of the etched antenna to receive a signal will be severely restricted by the aluminium core of the PCB acting as a shield. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I didn't even know what Grab was when I bought this. It turns out that it may be food delivery company in Singapore, which makes it odd that it was listed on eBay UK. It was from a seller who also had various other vehicle signs like "TAXI". It wasn't expensive, so it may have use as a novel illuminated ornament. To find it on eBay, search for the keywords "grab LED sign". The construction is pleasingly simple. Just a bare PCB with black resist and the logo as a white screenprint. The logo is formed by simple LED/resistor circuits like LED tape. Current draw at various voltages is:- 10V - 80mA 11V - 130mA 12V - 173mA 13V - 225mA 14V - 278mA The construction is reminiscent of some LED art panels. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A look at the circuitry inside a cheap bluetooth speaker that screws into a standard lampholder. The quality of construction suggests that it's a highly evolved product. They've managed to fit the whole circuit on a single sided PCB which is quite a feat. The only thing that lets the unit down is what appears to be an incorrect remote control that has been supplied with it. Although I unclipped the front cover, it appears to be fitted with a bayonet cap arrangement and just pops apart when the front is twisted slightly. (Potentially exposing live connections inside.) If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A look inside a photoelectric smoke detector that uses infrared light to detect an increasing smoke level in a room. I strongly recommend buying smoke detectors from local outlets like supermarkets, as that will guarantee a device that is compliant with your countries regulations. There are very poor quality smoke detectors on eBay that use a cheap microcontroller to give basic functionality (if they even work at all) but for just a little more you can get real branded units. I think this one either came from Poundland or the local Shoprite (Isle of Man) where they cost around £5. This one uses a dedicated chip that is designed to self test in several ways, and also reduce the risk of false alarms by differentiating between specs of dust passing through the sensor and actual smoke. The sounder is driven by a dedicated section of the chip with proper feedback to ensure it is loud by resonating at its maximum efficiency. The shielded infrared smoke detection chamber has an emitter and sensor positioned to avoid direct light coupling. But the circuit does test the emitter and detector by looking for the low level coupling that occurs by reflection. I recommend replacing smoke detectors at least every ten years. They can accumulate dust and reduce in sensitivity over time. They cost so little that it can be considered preventative maintenance. If you buy the same type it may fit on the existing base for an easy swap. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

By request, some ponderments on the theory presented by Veritasium that energy transfer between a source and load is via external fields facilitated by an electron path. I like to keep an open mind on electron theory, as everything we know about electron behaviour is based on perceived effects of something that is subatomic. All it takes is the discovery of a new characteristic to throw the puzzle open again. As usual, the topic digressed all over the place. In a way it's kinda pleasing that Veritasium's video poked the hornet's nest. It shows that people are still willing to explore alternatives to established theories. Here's a link to his original video:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHIhgxav9LY If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Grey import Christmas lights have been sold on eBay for a very long time. These are products that are shipped directly from countries with lower electrical safety standards than the country they're being shipped to. In doing so they bypass a wall of testing and approval to make sure they pose a low shock and fire risk. Amazon seem to be getting better in this regard, but do still occasionally show products from rogue vendors. In the case of these eBay lights they just made a mockery of safety. The plug should be fitted with a 3A fuse that is actually in circuit. A typical UK socket is 240V protected by a 32A circuit breaker, and requires a suitable fuse to protect the load and its cable. In this case the cable would burn and possibly ignite. The flex between the plug and controller has two white cores that are very thin and appear to be copper coated aluminium. The controller's cable connection point can be popped open effortlessly, exposing live connections. The wiring of the string is very thin and would classify as single insulated, only suited for low voltage use. There's no strain relief to stop the wires being pulled out of the lights - exposing live connections. The heatshrink sleeve is thin and easily pierced by a wire end or solder point. The resistors are very small and often run at well above their rated power, risking melting of the sleeving and subsequent exposure of live connections. It's not uncommon to find bare live wire or unsleeved LEDs along the cable run as nothing is properly tested. These lights are often sold as suitable for indoor or outdoor use. They are NOT waterproof in any way and can pose a shock risk if handled while wet, or leak current onto touchable metalwork like railings. If that happens it may be pulsing DC leakage which may defeat some protective devices. The cost of these lights has risen to the point they are close, if not more than a locally sourced country-compliant set that has proper insulation or an SELV (Separated Extra Low Voltage) power supply for safety. These lights pose a hazard to kids and pets who are attracted to the flashing lights and will handle them. In the right circumstances they could deliver a dangerous shock. Only buy your lights from a prominent local retailer or known brands who have to comply with local standards. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is the motorised roulette wheel mechanism out of a huge six player arcade machine. This type of machine has been around since I was a kid, but the technology has evolved greatly. The first units had a mains motor and cam-switch sequencer that spun the wheel and then waited for the ball to land in one of the indents. Each indent had a switch in it, and there were slip rings to allow the machine to detect which colour had been landed on. The machines are notable for their very characteristic coin acceptors. You place your coin vertically into a slot of the chosen colour, and it initially sticks up, allowing you to change your mind and swap it to another position. When the wheel starts spinning a solenoid/magnet system in each play position makes a loud clack noise and lets all the coins drop past simple coin rejectors and switches that latch the chosen colour. The next era of machines had a hole in each indent position and a bright light above, and used light sensors to get a reference position and detect the ball. The current era use an infrared sensor to detect the wheel position and an inductive sensor to detect the ball, counting stepper motor steps to determine its position on the wheel. I would guess that the software can detect a missing/stuck ball that doesn't land, and also tampering if it detects something unexpected. It might be quite hard to tamper anyway, since the machine rotates twice to check the ball is in the same indent before paying out. If it has moved indent it keeps rotating until the ball has settled reliably into one position for two full rotations. I roughed up a test circuit with a PIC microcontroller switching the stepper motor via a ULN2803 octal Darlington driver, with each channel powered by two parallel outputs. The stepper was sequenced one winding at a time, and even with soft speed ramps it took a much higher voltage to get reliable rotation at high enough speed to launch the ball. I think that as long as it can get the ball out of the indent it will be "batted" by other indents to get the ball into orbit. Even at the higher voltage the current was just under 1A on a motor rated 5V/1A per winding, and remained cool. Perhaps using MOSFETs for more solid switching would have been more efficient. I calculated the stepper to ball-indent ratio at 40 steps per wheel position. That's based on 25 positions in a 360 degree sweep and a stepper motor with 1.8 degree steps geared down 5 to 1. Here are some video links to see the full machine in action:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbRAIrZDLsE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRmNjRndx48 If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Quite a neat device. It's basically an inflatable ball with a weighted base so that it floats (or hangs) with the solar panel facing up, and sunlight passing through the globe charges the battery. It's not very bright, but still very visible as an illuminated feature. The colours can be selected with a remote control. One of the biggest surprises about this globe is that it is based on a NiMh battery. The 1.2V to 3.3V step up chip is a 2309S five-pin device that seems to be designed specifically for solar applications. I drew a blank when I searched online for it. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A look inside a portable soldering iron that uses a vapour style power supply. After it was suggested, I bought one of these hybrid units that are based on the USB style soldering elements and common vapour power supplies. If you already carry a vapour power supply then it means that all you need for spontaneous soldering is one of the tubes with a single bit in it and some solder spiralled around it. The unit heats very quickly and is quite handy for spontaneous wire removal from PCBs. That's why it appeared on my bench during another video. To operate it you have to cycle the power button to keep it awake, and adjust the cycle time for thermal regulation based on feel. It's very easy to overheat the tip. The unit has a lock which can either be enabled or disabled with 5 quick presses of the button. This makes it less likely to be turned on accidentally in a tool kit or pocket. I've removed the aliexpress link because the seller started price gouging, and I don't tolerate that sh*t. Search for the following keywords instead:- usb portable soldering iron You can also buy just the bits for your existing vapour power supply. Be careful with the power setting if your power supply can boost the voltage for higher wattage, as excess power may shorten the life of the bits dramatically. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I thought I'd take apart a set of new Xmas lights to see how they are evolving. The answer is that I doubt they could evolve more without going to a blob chip. The pinout of the chip is similar to a PIC12 microcontroller, but I'm not sure what it actually is. The LED driving comes directly from two IO pins, so the chip has either got a built in H-bridge driver, two high current outputs, or they may just be abusing standard outputs and relying on the internal FET resistance to limit the current. After the video I reassembled the module and tested it on a bench power supply. It drew 84mA while alternating and 64mA while static (alternating quickly) on a 4.5V supply. I did a voltage/current test on an alternating mode, and the results were:- 4.5V 80mA 4V 60mA 3.5V 39mA 3V 15mA 2.7V 4mA Below 2.7V the unit shut off, which is good for NiMh cells as it will reduce the risk of reverse charging of the first one to discharge completely. The intensity at 2.7V was pretty good for just 4mA. The use of alternating polarity LEDs saves a lot of wire for a flashing effect, and may also reduce the risk of static DC corrosion of the wires when water inevitably wicks up the LED heat shrink. Unfortunately it makes it a bit harder to run the string directly from a simple USB power cable adaptor. The 32.768kHz crystal frequency would need divided by 15 binary stages to get to 1Hz. A PIC microcontroller has the option of an RTCC (Real Time Clock Counter) which can be set to divide the clock frequency. It could be used to pre-divide and allow a more relaxed incrementing of the second stage counter for daily cycle timing in software while also maintaining the flashing patterns. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A quick showcase of various supercomputers and a build of an Evilution hexputer. You can download the Gerber files for the 6" by 4" (150mm by 100mm) and A4 supercomputers here:- http://www.bigclive.com/freebies.htm The 6X4 PCB file is called gallium2 http://www.bigclive.com/gallium2.zip and the A4 sized version is A4gallium http://www.bigclive.com/A4gallium.zip The 6X4 and A4 panels are designed to fit into a picture frame with the glass removed. To get PCBs made, choose your preferred PCB manufacturer and upload the whole zipped file on their order page. The other components you will need are flashing LEDs of your choice, either 470 ohm or 1000 ohm (1k) resistors and a spare USB cable to chop and connect to the PCB. Note that JLCPCB have changed somnething on their site including PCB filename recognition! If their site doesn't recognise the outline, change the name of the outline file from outline.GML to outline GKO. If you want one of Mouse's mini supercomputers or a badge minicomputer his Etsy page is here:- https://www.etsy.com/shop/Flashything For one of Evilution's hexaputer kits his Etsy page is here:- https://www.etsy.com/shop/hexled All these panels can be built at your own pace. I timed it to see a typical build time for myself. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is a guide to the proper use of an advent calendar that contains chocolate comestibles. If you enjoy videos like this and random technical content, then please consider subscribing to the channel for more.

This was partly a way to test my first panelised and V-cut PCB order from an online supplier. It turns out that the $2 for five panels soon adds up as you deviate from the norm. I decided to make a small square PCB that has a micro USB connector on one side and a two pole connector on the other, with two 10 ohm resistors for current limiting. In hindsight this module could have been more useful if it had a solder pad and PCB terminal block option too. But that's why we make prototypes. It works, and it means that I don't need to cut up any more USB leads to run strings of LEDs from USB power supplies. If you want to get a batch of these PCBs made, here's a zipped file that contains all the Gerber files needed. Note that because the site is not currently https I can't provide a direct clickable link, so you will need to copy and paste this link into a new tab/window. www.bigclive.com/USB2LED.zip It's an improved PCB with extra pads and strain relief holes for the direct connection of fairy light wires. To use the files with a company like JLCPCB, go to their order/quote page and when you click on the "Add Gerber file" button, upload the full zipped file. The PCB dimensions are 18mm by 18mm (if it doesn't fill it in automatically). For better value select "panel by JLCPCB" and then type 5 into both the column and row options. That will give 25 snap-apart PCBs on each panel. To allow for USB connectors with short leads, select 1mm for the PCB thickness. When choosing a shipping option, make sure you look for the cheaper China-post or airmail options as the default will be expensive express shipping like DHL and Fedex. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Super fast summary:- Wet areas or ones with a lot of exposed metal pose the highest shock risk. Confined areas or reaching into equipment pose a higher risk of fatality by trapping you during an electrical contact. Treat everything as live even when seemingly isolated/disconnected due to the risk of backfeeds from other circuits. Ordinary work gloves can reduce the risk of a serious shock greatly. Safe electrical training can not be replaced with 1-5 day slideshow classes. One thing I didn't mention in the video is the horrific way most fatal shocks occur. Workers making contact with live connections while in confined spaces or getting trapped reaching into equipment often die of oxygen starvation, as their ability to breathe and the heart's ability to pump blood is prevented by the flow of current through their body. Even when they black out they are often still passing current, and if not discovered quickly will not survive. Gloves. If you touch an electrical connection with your bare hands, the only insulation between them and a VERY conductive interior is a layer of dead skin cells on the surface. They do not have a voltage rating and in the event of contact the skin's resistance rapidly breaks down. In the event of muscle contraction a larger area of skin makes contact and high current will flow. While there are specifically rated live-work gloves, for less critical scenarios where you are not deliberately going to be handling live metal, a set of common work gloves adds a valuable extra layer of insulation to your hands. At the very least they can reduce the shock current of an accidental contact. The insulation of gloves is greatly reduced if they are wet. CPR (Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation). This is a very volatile area, since every country has its own standards and there is a lot of folklore from the past. The primary purpose of CPR (chest compressions) is to keep blood flowing around the body to prevent brain death. The theory that providing CPR to someone with a beating heart is dangerous has been disproven. Instead of wasting time trying to find a pulse, it is now considered a good option to immediately start chest compressions on an unconscious shock victim to get the existing oxygenated blood flowing to the brain. The act of compressing the chest can also cause airflow in the lungs, although the "breath of life" (mouth to mouth resuscitation) is useful if there is more than one person present. In the event of the heart being in a state of fibrillation it is essential that it is resynced by an external defibrillator. Every second counts, as the chance of heart resync drops rapidly with time. Even when the paramedics arrive, continue doing chest compressions until told to stop. Here's real video footage of CPR and a defibrillator being used on the victim of a pool electrocution. The fact the unit delivered a shock pulse indicates that it detected the heart was in a state of fibrillation, but still recoverable. The shock did resynchronise his heart. NEVER work on anything electrical while standing in water, as a shock will involve massive current. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeIjuTs0ZGA Here are some video examples of shocks, noting that I will NOT be posting excessively graphic ones, and definitely not overhead line contacts. Worker at top left corner makes contact with conductors of a live cable he is holding. Because the current is hand to hand, he manages to drop and gets lucky when the cable follows him down, but seems to short out as he hits the floor. Note how his arms have gone up to his chest and are so rigid that his left arm barely moves when it lands on the desk. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AF-qJMaAoo Example of contact with grounded metalwork while working on live circuitry. Legs in contact with bare metal, gripping on with one hand and coming into contact with an electrical connection with the other, made worse by his head contacting the metal ductwork too. I don't know what the outcome of this was. The fact he fell clear increases the chance of survival. This is a grim video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9nxbywcYK9c Expect the unexpected. Guy being shocked by roller shutter that becomes live is pulled clear with a scarf. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=or3Cmlf1dxo This video shows a guy getting a shock from the electrical trigger on a pressure washer (!!!). It shows how a shock can affect part of your body, but still leave you able to do something about it. He survived. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJLRAev3qPI This shows a horribly common shock scenario in the entertainment industry, sometimes caused by old or faulty tube/valve amplifiers. It results in a voltage difference between the strings of a guitar and a microphone. Note the loud squealing feedback noise when the guitar player on the left of the stage reaches up and grabs the microphone before collapsing. https://youtu.be/AKfi_uBlEBM?t=68

What initially started as a rough rig to test some bulk LED filaments from Aliexpress, turned into an attempt at making a really big LED filament lamp. It has to be said that side by side, the 12 filament Philips Dubai lamp appeared brighter at a similar power. So the Philips LEDs are definitely higher efficiency. None of the filaments supplied in this batch were broken, there were a few that had clearly been weeded out in the factory, and they provided a few extra. The packaging was simple with the three strips of filaments on a piece of cardboard and wrapped with film. Antistatic packaging would be preferred, but they seem to have survived shipping well. The listing I bought these LEDs from is:- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002258199411.html The cost was £10 per set of 100 filaments, but that may go up if lots of orders are placed. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is a useful 12V light in a very common form factor that seems to have become a standard. The bizarre name "purification light" actually makes it easier to find these online. The same style of light is referred to as a grill fitting by CPC (A prominent UK supplier). The light comes with a double sided foam adhesive strip and also the more traditional concealed metal clips for attachment to a surface. The foam strip may be useful for vehicle use, but the clips would be preferable for wall or ceiling mounting indoors. The circuitry is refreshingly simple - just LEDs and resistors, but it should be noted that running this directly from a fully charged SLA/Lead-acid battery will cause much higher LED current than normal. I tested it at various voltages and got the following results:- 8V - 32mA - 0.26W 9V - 195mA - 1.75W 10V - 378mA - 3.78W 11V - 595mA - 6.55W 12V - 804mA - 9.65W 13V - 1012mA - 13.16W 14V - 1237mA - 17.32W If using for long periods of time on a lead-acid battery supply that may float to 14V during charge, I'd recommend at least two diodes in series to drop the voltage slightly. Like 1N4001 series diodes. This light came from an Aliexpress seller. Note that many of their other items at unusually low prices are salvaged or factory rejects. This item was ordered along with several packs of LED filaments that came pre-broken, and also some small motor assemblies that had clearly been removed from equipment, and of which about half were faulty - including really obvious things like missing shafts. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001804922038.html If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Bit late putting this video up. But nonetheless I've taken it apart and meddled with it for our entertainment. I'm not sure if this is strictly local Shoprite stock or some of the stuff they get from the Sainsbury's label. I would expect Sainsbury's branding on it if it was theirs. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I've featured a smaller version of this unit before, but was travelling with work at the time, so didn't go into it too deeply. So here's the bigger version with a complete teardown and schematic. If you look at the warp core on Star Trek you'll see it's a scaled up version of this effect. It's actually very good. The simplicity of construction is quite pleasing. This unit is actually worth getting just for the parts inside. The power consumption as supplied is just half a watt (118mA at 4.5V). This unit came from a local hardware store called JAC stores in Ramsey, but they seem to be common on eBay. They keywords are fireplace lamp. In hindsight, the power jack probably breaks the negative connection as usual. There is a pin on the chip that comes out to a pad which I marked with a question mark. It's probably just an option to test for a clock signal or as a spare pin for an extra feature. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This video continues the previous Q&A session while soldering the very small and fumbly heater plug assemblies for the petal-dropping rose prop. It was a Friday night. Wine was involved. I may have said terrible things. The original prop test video can be found here:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hWQbQJMf5s If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A look inside a generic Volt Stick clone. I had one of the first Sagab versions with what I think was a metal body, and I recall the circuitry as being similar to this. They work by amplifying capacitively coupled current with reference to ambient ground (through you). These units are a handy extra test option for checking if an insulated cable may be live without breaking the insulation. They are not infallible, so all usual safety precautions should be taken. As with all tools you have to understand how they work and things that can influence their operation. That includes high voltage equipment in the vicinity like neon signs or overhead lines. They should also be tested before each use on a known live cable. This video features three circuit variants that can be built with discrete transistors. While fun to build, it's more practical to buy one for work use, as a significant part of the unit is the case. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Answering questions from the comments on the recent Q&A videos while showcasing the glamorous world of prop-making. A link to the original prototype prop test video:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hWQbQJMf5s If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I really LOVE the way this project turned out. It's 100% practical and also looks very cool too. When you buy a commercial HEPA (High Efficiency Particulate Absorbing) air cleaner you are basically buying a box with a fan and a replaceable filter. It doesn't matter how many extra gimmicks they add like ionisers, trace ozone generators (in disguise) or air quality monitoring units with wifi connectivity. When it comes to the crunch it's a box with a fan and a filter, and sometimes the replacement filters cost almost as much as the complete unit. This project is for making your own air filtering unit that uses whatever filter is the cheapest to source, and either a 3D printed adaptor for a common computer fan, or some other means to attach the fan to the unit if you don't have a 3D printer. I used this filter from eBay UK https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373720114422?var=642758532464 There are two openscad scripts included at the bottom of this description. Copying and pasting the text into openscad will allow you to create a custom self-scaling adaptor for most donut style filters (or even some HEPA vacuum bags) to attach them to a standard 120mm fan. The second script is for donut filters that are open at both sides. It prints a simple press fit cap to your chosen dimensions. This can also be used to make caps for other applications. You can either use the fan with no guard, a standard metal or plastic one, or a custom printed one. The fan should suck air through the filter. I chose a 12V fan and added two 1A diodes in series to nudge the voltage down slightly. This results in much quieter running and potentially longer fan life. The unit is intended to be run 24/7, so will still circulate a lot of air even with reduced flow. Power consumption will typically be just 1 or 2 watts. Running costs will be virtually zero. The whole assembly can be mounted on its side if desired. Technically speaking, the back cap could be screwed to a wall to mount the unit horizontally. The end result is a very stylish and minimalist air cleaner that will only require the filter to be changed once or twice a year depending on air particulate levels. You can extend its life by vacuuming the exterior of the filter to remove large dust particles. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators Here's the first of the openscad scripts. Openscad is open source 3D design software that is free to download and use. This script creates the fan adaptor for your chosen filter. Measure the hole in the middle and enter it as the variable "filterhole". The other variables can usually be left at their defaults. The script as-is will work with the Silentnight filters sold on eBay in the UK. Make sure you leave the semicolon (;) intact when you enter a new value. //120mm fan adaptor HEPA filter $fn=100; //You can adjust these four variables //Primarily the filter hole diameter screwhole=5; //fan screw hole diameter (5) filterhole=92; //HEPA filter hole diameter thickness=1.5; //Thickness of plastic layer (1.5) insert=10; //Length of insert into filter (10) //Do not adjust anything below here cone=(120-filterhole)/1.5; wall=thickness*2; difference(){ union(){ //flange translate([0,0,0]) cube([120,120,thickness]); //taper to filter insert translate([60,60,0]) cylinder(h=cone,d1=120,d2=filterhole); //filter insert translate([60,60,cone]) cylinder(h=insert,d=filterhole); } //taper to filter insert translate([60,60,0]) cylinder(h=cone,d1=116,d2=filterhole-wall); //filter insert translate([60,60,cone]) cylinder(h=insert,d=filterhole-wall); //fan attachment holes translate([7.5,7.5,-1]) cylinder(h=thickness+2,d=screwhole); translate([7.5,112.5,-1]) cylinder(h=thickness+2,d=screwhole); translate([112.5,7.5,-1]) cylinder(h=thickness+2,d=screwhole); translate([112.5,112.5,-1]) cylinder(h=thickness+2,d=screwhole); } This is the second openscad script which will generate a cap for the other end of the filter if needed. It can also make caps for other applications too. //HEPA filter blanking cap $fn=100; //You can adjust these four variables //Mainly the filter hole diameter filterhole=92; //diameter of filter hole rim=10; //size of rim (10) insert=10; //Length of insert (10) thickness=1.5; //Thickness of plastic (1.5) //Do not adjust anything below here wall=(2*thickness); cap=thickness+insert; difference(){ union(){ //seal plate cylinder(h=thickness,d=filterhole+(2*rim)); //filter insert cylinder(h=cap,d=filterhole); } //filter insert core translate([0,0,thickness]) cylinder(h=cap+1,d=filterhole-wall); }

This unit uses an electrochemical reaction to convert water with salt into a sanitising liquid called hypochlorous acid. This type of device is sometimes called a chlorine generator. In the event of a disaster, something like this could be improvised to sterilise water using low level solar energy. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I wondered how the lateral flow tests strips worked, so after doing a test with one I took it apart. The deceptively simple interior hides quite complex molecular science. I'm not a molecular biologist, so I've kept the description of operation simple. There are versions of these strips that can do multiple tests simultaneously, and also versions that are read optically to give a more analogue reading. (The blood analysis uses the blood-plasma for the test.) If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I got this to take apart for our entertainment. It's a serially controlled coin payout hopper that uses the CCtalk serial protocol used in gaming equipment for simple serial addressing of coin handling equipment. This particular unit has just three wires connected. 24V, 0V and data. The CCtalk protocol was originally developed by coin controls to minimise wiring. It has a single line which any device on the network can pull to the zero volt rail with a simple NPN transistor. Each device can have an address set locally by wire links, and when asked on that address will identify itself and allow control of coin acceptance, payout or fault indication. There's also an option for loading new firmware via the serial connection. Speed is typically 9600 baud. Not having anything that can generate the correct control data locally, I experimentally hot-wired the motor PCB and its associated shunt relay. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

These turned out to be pretty good. Initially when I saw the box I thought they were just floating tealights, but it turns out they are slender electronic flickering candles that come with a hook and very fine clear thread to suspend them in the air. I'll guess they may be themed on the floating candles in the banquet hall of Hogwarts. The circuitry is actually pretty impressive, since it uses a single AAA cell at a very low 11mA with a 3-pin boost chip that ensures constant intensity of the flickering LED right down to about 0.6V. Note that it's extremely easy to tangle the very thin threads, so I recommend only removing one candle from the pack at a time to hang them. When taking them down, remove the battery and roll the thread back up round the body before placing in the storage tray. They can be untangled and the threads adjusted as shown in the video. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Checking out a faulty thermostat sent by Roger for our exploration. For simple power faults like this one has it does actually make sense to do repairs. With very predictable failure modes these days you don't need much electronics knowledge or experience to attempt a repair. A really common failure mode of compact switch mode power supplies is the capacitor on the low voltage side. That's because the very high frequency it operates at results in an amplified electrical stress. When the capacitor starts to fail its impedance increases and that causes an avalanche effect with the gassing of the electrolyte causing a buildup of pressure that domes the top of the capacitor and forces the electrolyte out through either the rubber seal at the base or the domed end (which is designed to rupture) as vapour. The main thing to note is that you must use a low ESR (Low Equivalent Series Resistance) capacitor to deal with the high frequency operation, it should be the same capacitance value and a voltage equal to or greater than the original, and you must ensure it gets put in with the correct polarity. A full replacement thermostat would have cost around £55 while the replacement capacitor was available as a pack of five for £1. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A project inspired by a friend in the theatre industry who was asking about the technicalities of creating a prop rose in a glass bell jar where the petals fall off in a controlled manner during the performance. My initial thoughts were a magnetic system or an assembly with boden style tubes to allow pins to be pulled to drop the petals, but then I decided to experiment with resistors and wax. This video is a good demonstration of how changing materials (higher temp wax and lighter petals) can change the results completely. The prop as shown is just a prototype. It would look more rose-like with more petals and a smaller connection hub. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Reece sent this plug-in thermostat and extension cable after an incident when he plugged it in and the cable immediately started burning in the vicinity of the sensor cable. Quite interesting analysis of the cable damage with bonus teardown of the thermostat. In hindsight, the fault may have been initiated by the core being partially cut through, as indicated by the outer damage on the cable. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

It's impressive when a product designed in 1999 is still being made. This confirms my suspicion that the new units do have retro circuitry. They've changed very little over time. These are battery operated units that use a controlled electrical discharge to convert oxygen into ozone in little bursts. They are used to keep refrigerators fresh smelling and reduce the risk of mould or bacteria affecting the surface of food. They can also be used in small cupboards to add trace ozone to the air. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Yet another glorious piece of mass produced landfill for exploration. The listing claims:- Catches mosquitos - The biting ones are actually attracted to warm CO2. 300,000 hour LED life - That's very unlikely even at 11mA. Colour pink - actual colour blue. (BOOOO!) Claims photocatalyst action - doesn't have photocatalyst action. 2.5W power consumption - actual power 1.4W. I'm not sure where the claims of photocatalytic action came from, but many similar products use those buzzwords to imply that the UV stimulation of titanium dioxide causes a photocatalytic reaction with air impurities, releasing CO2 to lure biting insects. This unit is just another of the common fly traps that use LEDs to lure flies in a dark room and then theoretically trap them by sucking them into a cage. It might work for some flies, but I have a lack of flies here to test it. On a plus note the case and components do have potential for reuse. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is an RS14 module which is connected to a shaft or car network on an Elevator. It has four connectors designed to interface to illuminated buttons. In the case of the landing call buttons there would be a four wire network running down the shaft with power (30V) and data lines. The network cable loops past each of these modules in the LOP units (Landing Operating Panel) where two or more illuminated buttons will be plugged into it. When a landing button is pressed the module communicates with the main controller to let it know, and then receives data back to turn on the LEDs in the button. Each of these modules has a set of address switches to indicate its position in the system. I was expecting this to use a CAN bus network, but it appears to be a proprietary standard with Otis's own data transfer protocol. I was quite surprised to see that it didn't use a standard RS485 or other network driver chip, as they simplify the circuitry and are usually quite rugged. At this point in time I haven't sussed out the communication circuitry, but I'll make a guess that the comparator is probably receiving a differential signal and the module may be using a discrete push-pull circuit to put data onto the network. I'm wondering if the RSL (Remote Serial Link) system is just an early standard that Otis developed and have continued to use due to their core software being based around it. As with many other things, the module has been cloned in many forms. You can get copies for around £10, although it should be noted that if the software they use is a bad clone then they could cause network reliability issues. When I was trying to identify the chip based on the Otis part number I found many Chinese sellers offering the chip for sale. I'm not sure if it's the real thing or a clone. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A short video showing the counting mechanism from an old Bally pull-handle slot machine (fruit machine). This module counts the coins that have been paid out from a rotating coin hopper. This machine is from an intermediate era between the all-mechanical arcade/casino games and the fully electric ones. The reel mechanism is mechanical, but the coin handling and controls are electrical. (No electronics yet.) I'm not sure how old this machine is. Possibly from the 1960's. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

It's not aluminium! I just wanted to clarify that, if you don't watch the whole video. The earth busbar appears to be solid brass with a silver-like plating on one side. This is a new and welcome twist on the traditional UK power socket. Instead of using screw terminals it uses spring loaded terminals in the same style of Wago terminals. In use the spring mechanism tightly clamps the copper wire against a copper or brass busbar. It actually looks very robust, but time will be the true test. The spring clamp removes the risk of people either under or over tightening the clamp screws. This is especially important in this era of profit-motivated Part-P deskilling. The colour coding of the terminals is also useful in this regard. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This seems a fairly well designed product with quite a lot of deja-vu in the electronics. I've looked at a number of other fridge ozone units in the past with very similar circuitry. I'd guess the reason the fan and high voltage module are on separate transistors is to allow fan over-run or cycling of the ozone to regulate the output. The physical design and construction of this unit is stylish and fairly sensible. It's unusual that the ozone generating plate has the active area facing away from the fan, but I'd guess air turbulence makes up for that. It certainly smells strongly of ozone in use. Aside from use in fridges and food cupboards, the unit is also good for small rooms and wardrobes for combatting musty smells. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

After the initial disappointment of finding out that this light was about half the size I was expecting, this light just kept delivering hand-to-forehead moments. Spoilers below:- The solar panel. It's tiny, with about 20mA output, which is going to take a while to charge the 2200mAh lithium cell. But that's probably a blessing in disguise, since there is absolutely no overcharge protection for the lithium cell from the solar panel. This light has all the obligatory flickery dim modes, annoying strobe and the worst implementation of an SOS mode I've ever seen. The circuitry uses a P-channel MOSFET switching to the positive rail, but the software appears to be designed for an N-channel MOSFET switching to the negative rail, which means off and on are inverted. This doesn't show on the main modes that have been shuffled to fit, but the SOS mode doesn't actually flash the SOS code, but blinks the light out for dots and dashes instead. Given that the dimming options are just full half and quarter, the PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) routine doesn't have to be complicated. It could alternate toggling the LEDs on and off with switch tests and still achieve a very high PWM speed on a slow processor. This software has very slow PWM to the point of being unpleasant. The light does have some plus points though. The cell capacity can be doubled, and the 5V power bank mode puts out 5V all the time, albeit at just 800mA. But it does mean the light could be used to power low current LED strings for a long time without going into standby. With a voltage of 4V the LED current measurements were:- Full 900mA Medium 450mA Low 236mA Strobe 450mA (50/50 ratio) There's no magical keyword to find these lights. The title is a fairly generic string of words:- USB LED Rechargeable Outdoor Camping Tent Lamp Lantern Hiking Ultra Bright Light If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Your first multimeter can initially seem a bit daunting with all the modes, but the only way to learn is to get one and play with it. I damaged my first meter when I was young by using it on the incorrect range. You can damage these cheap meters, but at the cost you don't have to worry about it too much. I probably made this video too long and complicated, but it's useful to know how things work as well as how to use them. The very cheap meters sold for around 5 $/£/€ are usually pretty accurate for their cost and very usable. Once you've mastered using one you can move up to something with more features or more suitable for industrial work. These cheap meters are NOT suitable for poking around in distribution boards or industrial equipment with high fault current. Meters have a category rating as follows:- Cat I - electronic use (these cheap meters) Cat II - electrical appliance, but not fixed wiring or distribution boards Cat III - general electrical maintenance in panels and machines Cat IV - utility level work with very high fault currents For industrial work I recommend Fluke as it appeases the clipboard warriors. There are many other brands suited to industrial use too. Beware cheap meters with fake category ratings. The Fluke meter in the video is an original American made unit, and was my first ever real industrial meter. It cost a lot, but has lasted well. I recommend getting these meters from a prominent supplier in your country to ensure they comply with local regulations. The one I demonstrated is from CPC/Farnell and definitely better quality than the eBay imports. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Despite the shipping issues, Poundland has started selling some new and interesting Halloween stuff. The strobe is back with new circuitry and there's a very nice twist to the illuminated pumpkins and skulls. Slight circuit correction. The inductors in the solar lights are 270uH and not 470uH. This is a good compromise value between intensity and run-time. I've added an openscad script at the bottom of this description for a simple 2" (50mm) high base for putting the solar pumpkin and skull lights on your windowsill. The antique solar globe needs some work, but is a good starting point for a custom light. The strobe is worth buying just as a good case with customisable LED panel and integrated 3 AA battery pack. For use as an outdoor light it could be placed in a clear bag for waterproofing if needed. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators Openscad script for a windowsill base for the solar Halloween lights is down below. //Window stand for Halloween solar lights $fn=100; difference(){ union(){ //tapered base disk cylinder(h=3, d1=50,d2=44); //main pillar cylinder(h=50, d=20.5); //transition taper cylinder(h=27,d1=27,d2=0); } //internal cylinder hole translate([0,0,-1]) cylinder(h=52,d=17.5); }

Beyond the marketing hype, this unit actually has a very clever feature implemented with discrete components, that allows it to detect when the refill has been changed - even when it's not plugged in. That allows it to work out how much aroma liquid is still in the bottles during use and indicate when they it might be needing a refill by flashing the indicator lights. Spoiler alert - the unit doesn't used chipped cartridges. It uses a switch and a single bit non-volatile memory circuit that is even active when unplugged. Like a single bit of static RAM that can be set to zero even when the unit is unpowered. I found the circuit quite impressive. I'd more or less guessed what they might be doing, which made reverse engineering it easier. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is a purely technical video about one of the earlier Chinese versions of what has become a huge industry. At the time this was considered more of a novelty, and the TINY lithium cell inside (due to the space limitations of imitating the dimensions of the real thing) meant that future designs went in a completely different direction. The method of liquid storage and delivery also evolved significantly. What's novel about this version is the built in mains voltage charger with pop out pins. The circuitry is very minimalist, but works. The whole thing is quite stylish in the way it visually emulates the original product. The best thing to breathe is clean air. I only endorse things like this for people with an existing dependency as a safer option. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I get the feeling this is probably a mass clone of a popular design. It's available from different suppliers with a slightly different appearance. The design uses a cluster of very common 4056 charge control chips in parallel to give higher charging current. The keywords for finding this module are TP4056 3A - cost is around 4£$€. Double check your jack connectors connections before soldering it on, as the PCB is deigned to take various styles, and it's possible to put the pins in the wrong holes. The module does have polarity protection. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I saw this unit in a local farm store (Farmers Combine in Ramsey) and bought it for us to explore. It's more or less an automatic air freshener unit with a can of fly spray, but it seems to be an older design similar to the units used in commercial restroom facilities. I think the chip is a dedicated ASIC (Application Specific Integrated Circuit) that is specifically designed for units like these. It seems to have integrated timing modules with internal capacitors, and has an extremely low quiescent current measured in microamps. The spray is 1% pyrethrin with Piperonyl Butoxide, a chemical that makes the pyrethrin more effective by reducing insect defense against it. Pyrethrins are based on a natural defence chemical generated by chrysanthemum plants. Most home sprays are about 0.1% pyrethrin here. But also get sprayed a lot longer. The unit is very hackable for custom use. There are two distinct timing modules which are set with external resistors. One controls the motor run-time and the other sets the timing clock which determines the time between sprays. The LED flash timing is also derived from that clock, so shorter delays result in faster flashing. A totally custom time between sprays could be set with a 10 Megohm potentiometer in series with a 240K resistor to set the minimum time and allow variation up to a few hours between sprays. That could be useful for very light scenting with a fragrance spray. In hindsight, I'm thinking that the two connections for the time setting resistor may indicate that it is effectively across an inverter with an integrated capacitor on the input to create a simple oscillator. The use of a metal grip for the top of the can means that the unit can accommodate non standard cans, or with a slight modification to the case it could take full size unmetered cans. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The local Poundland has been struggling with some stock this year due to the effects of covid and brexit. I picked an item from their meagre display for us to explore and hack. This is a string of orange phosphor based LED lights. They are actually a blue/UV LED being used to stimulate a layer of orange phosphor to give a brighter and richer colour than classic orange LEDs. It's a really nice soft orange with a hint of pink. To make the modification for guilt free running with USB chargers instead of batteries, I added a 10 ohm quarter watt resistor in series with each of the two wires. That results in a current of 100mA and total power dissipation of about half a watt. The current is high enough that it should prevent most "intelligent" USB power banks from going into standby. You can adjust the intensity/current by using different resistors. Using 5.6 ohm resistors would increase the intensity and using 22 ohm resistors would decrease it. The components needed are:- String of chosen parallel LEDs Two 10 ohm resistors Salvaged USB cable 2"/50mm of 2.4mm diameter heat shrink If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

At around £40 for two of these "5Ah" Ryobi compatible batteries I was expecting them to be fairly low capacity. In reality they're pretty close to the claimed capacity (80%) but the circuitry they use for monitoring the cell voltage is unusual, and doesn't give me confidence in leaving them charging unattended. In the video I mentioned the potential for the 100 ohm balancing resistors to have a higher voltage across them at full charge current. Theoretically the current would need to drop to around 40mA for the resistors to safely pass the current without the risk of the cell being charged above 4.2V. Although the cell balancing seems like a good feature, I'd have been a lot more comfortable with these batteries if they had used the simpler single chip unbalanced management chip as used in the cheaper tools. It would decisively detect any cell reaching full capacity and cut the charging current off. The way the circuitry senses the voltage across the pack gave me doubts about its ability to detect a single cell going into the bypass mode. Maybe I'm just being pessimistic, but there is a lot of weird circuitry involved. All the divider resistors are critical values and even the tiniest manufacturing defect of a missing or incorrect resistor value could have significant consequences. I spent a HUGE amount of time trying to get my head around the way the circuitry worked. To properly reverse engineer the circuit would require large images, removal of components and lots of time. On a plus note they seem to have a decent cluster of 18650 cells. The temptation is to reconfigure them as a large parallel group as a chunky 20,000mAh power bank. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The third part of a question and answer session. Feel free to ask more questions down below in the comments. Here's the link to Mouse's wearable supercomputer badge on Etsy:- https://www.etsy.com/shop/Flashything And Evilution's PCBs for the hexagonal supercomputer:- https://www.etsy.com/shop/hexled If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The second part of a question and answer session. Feel free to ask more questions down below in the comments. Here's the link to Mouse's wearable supercomputer badge on Etsy:- https://www.etsy.com/shop/Flashything And Evilution's PCBs for the hexagonal supercomputer:- https://www.etsy.com/shop/hexled If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The first part of a question and answer session. This part will sound a bit boomier due to me forgetting to drop the microphone down. Feel free to ask more questions down below in the comments. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A rather tasty emergency/military ration pack from Poland. I think this ration pack was sent by Michal a long time ago. (It's on his dedicated part of a shelf of stuff). I didn't make a video about it earlier as I had made a few videos about other MREs (Meal Ready to Eat) at the time. One of the more unusual items in this one was a one-litre water treatment system with a rugged hangable ziploc style bag and a tiny chlorination tablet. Further investigation shows that the little water treatment tablets are very common and some contain silver for additional antibacterial effect. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is one of many devices on eBay sold as buddhist meditation aids. They generally have a large number of well-compressed audio files that loop to provide an ambience that will help achieve the state of ultimate-shamoo whereby they may drink holy-beer and party. (My understanding of religion may not be accurate.) When I took another more glorious solar powered unit apart in a different video I was asked if I could dump the flash memory chip to see if it could be repurposed with alternative music files. Keep in mind that the memory is just 16 Mbit, equating to 2 Megabytes of 8 bit memory, which is only enough for 2 minutes of decent quality MP3 music. That's just enough for random fart noises or a Rickroll. The unit may possibly use an ordinary MP3 player chip like a gpd2856a or it may have a microcontroller with proprietary software and some form of file protection for the music on the chip. Here's a link to a dump of the flash contents if you wish to try and solve the puzzle of the data format. http://www.bigclive.com/buddha.bin If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

There are two interesting things about this pump. The case is transparent, so you can see what's inside - which is nice, and there's a switch on the side that lets you choose two power settings. This is just a quick video taking the whole darn thing apart to see how they select the speeds and the general construction. (very classic aquarium pump design) Not sure the actual air volume or pressure of this unit. The listings are always a bit generous in their ratings. At this point in time I've not been able to find the listing I got this from. It could perhaps benefit from a few strategically placed blue neon lamps held securely in place to avoid vibration issues. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

You'll still find lots of these in old equipment. Sometimes you'll smell them too, and if one blows up while you're working in the panel the vile smell will make you leave the area fast. This is a selenium rectifier. It was popular from around the 1930's until the much better silicon diode took over. It consists of a metal plate with a coating of doped selenium and a tin-cadmium electrode. When heated the tin-cadmium diffuses into the surface of the selenium and creates a semiconductor junction with a forward voltage of around 1V under load, and a PIV (Peak Inverse Voltage) of around 20V. The low reverse voltage means that for higher voltages the diode plates have to be stacked, and each one adds another forward voltage drop to the stack. This makes the selenium rectifiers much less efficient than modern silicone diodes. You'll find these in various industrial machines like elevator controllers, bowling pinsetters and various old (but rugged) factory machines. If you're lucky they will still be working, but if you're unlucky the rectifier will have failed with a pungent smell. If you're even more unlucky the rectifier will fail next to you with a loud electrical parp and a jet of extremely stinky smoke that will force you to leave the area. It's claimed that the smoke is harmful to breathe, but to be honest you're not going to stay around anyway, as the smell is sometimes described as rotten eggs. I'd say it's that plus a sickly sweet smell too. The modern replacement is the humble 35A block rectifier, which will fit most applications and is easy to mount. It has the advantage of having spade terminals so all you need to do is work out which wires are from the transformer, cut and crimp them, and put them on the AC terminals of the rectifier. Then trace the wires going to the smoothing capacitor and do the same, making sure the positive and negative go to the correct terminals of the rectifier. Changing the capacitor may be a good idea too. Note that for higher voltage applications the new rectifier will have a lower voltage drop resulting in a higher DC voltage. Although unlikely to be an issue, it may push some older components over the edge. In some instances you may be able to compensate with a slightly lower voltage secondary transformer tap, or a slightly higher voltage primary tap which will result in lower secondary voltage. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

There are two distinct sides to this product. One is the extremely good value for the components alone - including two seemingly decent batteries and a matching charger. The other is the fact it's a competent little chainsaw with absolutely no interlock to reduce the risk of accidental operation. And that's not a great thing for chainsaws as they have a voracious appetite for human flesh. The unit does at least come with a small shield to reduce the risk of injury due to kickback (When the blade suddenly bites and throws the unit back forcibly.) Other gardener-style reviews of these common units rave about how long the battery lasts, and how effortlessly they cut through branches. It certainly made short work of fresh and old dried out branches when I tried it. Internally it's very simple, just like other modern cordless tools. A fairly rugged battery connector, common pulse width modulation speed control and a motor with a thermal trip/fuse attached to the side. (Possible failure point?) The gearbox is made of plastic with steel gears and is very minimalist. The motor cog drives directly onto a larger cogwheel with a long sleeve bearing. That larger cog has a keyed shaft for the chain drive sprocket, which is held on by a wire circlip/snap-ring. As with most other chainsaws the chain rides in a bar, which is a sandwich of two metal plates spaced apart to guide tabs on the inside of the chain. That bar can be moved forwards or backwards to tension the chain correctly at a point where it's not so tight that it binds on the guide bar, and not so loose that it can skip out. Full size chainsaws have a simple oil wicking system that keeps the chain lubricated with a very sticky oil. This one has no lubricator and is not supplied with oil. I added some around the chain and bar before using it. The charger's LED indicator is a very crude current sensing circuit that will indicate that the pack is at least near full charge. It appears to be using the lower voltage of the red LED to extinguish the higher voltage green one. If you get one of these units I strongly recommend removing the battery when not in use, as an accidental operation of the trigger will cause serious wounds. Definitely make sure the battery is removed before adjusting the chain. Keep it away from kids and make sure you attach the anti-kickback guard. This unit will require extra care in use as its size and convenience belie its dangers. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Spoiler - this was AWESOME. It would make a great party starter if you carbonated whisky in front of your guests and then served them all shots of the freshly carbonated whisky to get the party rolling. In some European and Soviet regions it is traditional to put vodka into a soda siphon (early home drink carbonator) and dispense the fizzy vodka into glasses with a drizzle of fruit flavoured syrup. It's best to chill the whisky (or whiskey) first as it will absorb more carbon dioxide. Don't use expensive stuff, as that would be a waste. I used Sainsbury's Crag and Glen supermarket whisky as it is cheap but very acceptable. Sodastream only recommend using water in their units to avoid clogging up or damaging the safety pressure release valve. As such, you do this at your own risk. Show me if you loved or hated this video with those thumb buttons. If you liked it, then subscribing to the channel will ensure you get notified of new content when I release it. #ElectronicsCreators

This is a faulty control system that was sent to me by Bjorn. When his new printer failed the supplier simply sent out a complete new pair of control boards as it was the cheapest way to guarantee a fix. The system is completely dead unit with the display pulsing briefly at power up and drawing a high supply current. Many of the modern units take a modular approach to allow swapping out specific sections of circuitry. It's often faster and cheaper to just swap in spare modules until the unit starts working again. But in the case of specialist machines or obsolete equipment it's useful to be able to diagnose a fault to component level. It's easy to forget that things like 3D printers and cutting lasers used to be very expensive industrial machines. They've become so popular that you basically have a full blown industrial machine on your table. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I'm guessing these are designed for automatic release of locker doors like in the Amazon locker system. They operate at 12V and physically push the door open instantly when triggered. The coils are only rated for brief pulses, and draw such a high current (2-4A) that any microcontroller based circuitry should be designed with separate tracks for the coils and logic from the PSU. To protect the switching transistor against the current spike caused by the collapsing magnetic field when turned off, a diode should be wired across the coil with the band pointing to the positive rail. The keywords to find these on eBay are:- electric magnetic door lock Price will be around £$€7 Here's the manufacturer's website:- https://www.doson.com.tw/index.php?mod=&lang=2 These could also be used as a controlled drop mechanism in some applications. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

At first I thought this unit used an ordinary 6W T5 UVC germicidal tube. But it appears to be different from normal tubes, which probably prevents refitting with a commonly available one. That's a shame as I saw these modules being sold for around £55 compared to the equivalent standard germicidal 6W T5 lamp being between £5 and £10. Interesting construction though, and a neat way of making it easy for users to replace the germicidal tube in seconds without technical knowledge. When handling UVC tubes, it's important to clean them afterwards with a suitable cleaning alcohol, as the natural skin oils may affect the output of UVC energy in that area. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I think the main feature of this light is the combination of the solar panel, LEDs and circuitry onto a single PCB with a thick resin coating. It means that the only other components needed are the NiMh cell and the switch (which can be shorted out for reliability.) If I sound a bit lacklustre in this video it's partly because I was tired when I made it, and was also slightly disappointed at the lack of hackability due to most of the components being potted in resin. The housing seems sensibly designed and will tend to sit above the surface it's positioned on, reducing the risk of water penetration. If modding this I recommend adding some resin, hot-melt or other glue to the wires on the back of the PCB to avoid them snapping off. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A look inside one of the many controversial ultrasonic pest repellers. These things claim to repel rodents and insects from your home by creating an ultrasonic noise that disturbs them. The PCB in this unit looks very competently designed, with good clearances and logical design. The bulk of the units magic is in the software, and they've been quite clever in creating a swept ultrasonic output, while also pulse width modulating the indicator LED. It could even be said that the programmer may have been showboating. I scoped the output of this unit by powering it from a 5V supply. I was expecting a fast ramping ultrasonic siren, but it's different. The power consumption of the unit is very low at around 0.15W. A guestimate of the power factor is 0.02 which is close to just having a suppression capacitor across the mains supply. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This project turned out even better than expected. It was inspired by the lights used in pinball machine playfields, where coloured inserts are illuminated from behind. I've attached two scripts at the bottom of this description. If copied and pasted into openscad they can be used to create custom versions with the following adjustable variables:- Outer diameter of the insert (all measurements in millimetres) Depth of main disk thickness of front layer of plastic. Thicker = stronger/diffused and allows sanding flush diameter of LED length of the LED support measured from the front There are two versions:- Star, which has eight radial lines and is the strongest version. Concentric, which has a series of fresnel style lenses to spread the light. I recommend printing these in transparent/natural PLA to allow maximum light transmission. I've not tried coloured transparent PLA yet. They print very fast with a small amount of filament. For example 20mm=1g, 25mm=1.5g, 30mm=2g, 40mm=3g, 50mm=4g, 75mm=7.5g. You can fit a standard LED with suitable resistor like 150 ohm for powering lots of these in parallel from a standard USB power supply. Self colour changing LEDs look good, as do self flashing ones. You could size the LED holder to take an addressable LED string pixel. You could also animate the light in the style of a pinball feature effect. Diffused LEDs are best to get a softer spread of light through the insert. For drilling the holes, a plunge drill or router will give a clean vertical hole to a repeatable depth. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators The openscad scripts are below. You can copy and paste the selected script into openscad, and adjust the variables at the top to fine tune sizing to your requirements before making into an STL file. Here's the star script:- //Pinball style star LED insert $fn=100; //You can adjust the variables below size=25; //diameter of insert in mm depth=5; //depth of insert face=1; //thickness of front face led=5.2; //diameter of LED stem=15; //length of LED stem //don't adjust anything below here difference(){ union(){ difference(){ union(){ //main disk cylinder(h=depth, d=size); } //internal cylinder translate([0,0,face]) cylinder(h=depth,d=size-2); } //star fins for (i=[0:36:350])rotate([0, 0, i]){ translate([0,-.5,face]) cube([(size/2)-1,1,depth-face]); } //LED pillar cylinder(h=stem,d=led+2); } //led hole translate([0,0,face]) cylinder(h=stem+1,d=led); } And here's the concentric circles script:- //Pinball style fresnel LED insert $fn=100; //You can adjust the variables below size=25; //diameter of insert in mm depth=5; //depth of insert face=1; //thickness of front face led=5.2; //diameter of LED stem=15; //length of LED stem difference(){ //main disk cylinder(h=depth, d=size); //internal cylinder translate([0,0,face]) cylinder(h=depth,d=size-2); } //concentric rings for (i=[0:4:size-8]){ difference(){ cylinder(h=face+1, d=size-i-1.5); cylinder(h=face+1.1, d=size-i-3.5); } } //LED pillar difference(){ cylinder(h=stem,d=led+2); //led hole translate([0,0,face]) cylinder(h=stem+1,d=led); }

I love this unit. It's very clearly a low volume hand-made electronic product for a very niche market. It shows the quality results that can be achieved when somebody inventive uses a 3D printer. The circuitry also has a very distinct hand-rolled feel to it. I'm not going to go too deep into it, because it would be unethical to reverse engineer such a specialist product. And a huge amount of the work is done in the software locked in the microcontrollers anyway. Subsequent to the video I stripped the battery holders that had been damaged, neutralised the alkali damage with vinegar, rinsed them off with isopropanol, cleaned the contacts and then reassembled with fresh batteries and a note to the owner to remove batteries when in storage and use a complete fresh set for all major events to ensure reliability. Here's the manufacturers website if you need an infrared beam race timing system:- http://www.timeitperfect.co.uk If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is a waterproof light that apparently lures fish at night. They're available in a few different colours and operate from a 12V battery. I quite like the idea of a portable underwater light. It could have other applications for temporary theming. I wonder how waterproof they really are. Keywords for finding these on eBay are:- underwater fishing light lure If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is a common tool used by surgeons to make clean cuts that don't bleed. It's a probe that uses high power RF energy to cut and cauterise simultaneously. This is the single use sterile pen that connects to a very complex and expensive machine that provides the RF energy at a fairly high voltage. The return path for the current is a flat electrode stuck onto a suitable area of the patient's body. At the frequencies involved there's no electric shock effect. Just heat or burning at the point of contact. Further investigation shows that you can get blade, needle, ball and loop electrodes. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This high voltage module contains a very traditional, but simple circuit to boost the mains supply voltage up to several thousand volts at low current. I screwed up. I showed the 220nF capacitor on the PCB photo between the transformer pads. It should be on the two ones to the left. The resistor I added in experimentaly was 33K 2W. I also forgot to show a close-up of an unsleeved carbon fibre emitter. It's just the stripped wire and a bundle of carbon fibre strands laid into a brass crimp, which is crimped and sleeved with heat shrink sleeving. The eBay listing title of the item shown is:- AC 220V Car Air Purifier Negative Ion Ionizer Anion Generator Airborne Modules Although designed for 220V (Chinese standard voltage) this unit will work on 120V at much lower output (and much longer life). For 230V to 240V it may be useful to add a 1W 10K to 33K resistor in series to make the life of the internal resistors easier. If building this into a plastic enclosure to make an ioniser/ionizer I'd recommend adding a couple of 1 megohm 1W/2W resistors in series with either each output lead or just one pair in series with the general output, splitting to all the emitters again after the resistors. That provides an extra layer of safety for anyone touching the emitters. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I thought it might be a good idea to use AvE's bigger copper swing press to drive a nail through a slightly overcharged lithium cell out of a pink Poundland power bank. It's a slow starter - but it gets going when it's got excited enough. Note that it's normally quite hard to make lithium cells do this. The power they unleash is purely the stored energy and not much to do with the tiny quantity of lithium itself. The Poundland power bank this cell came from is well constructed and has independent cell protection to avoid overcharge or discharge. Lithium cell fires are such a tiny percentage of the massive number in use that they often make the news when it happens. Here's AvE's video where he makes the copper swing-press:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivrxXEUWHL8 If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators #sharts

I'll make a wild guess that this product was pushed out fast to cash in on the pandemic. It's an extraordinary combination of a very robust and attractive case ruined by what's inside. I'll probably keep the case, fan, module and even the LED panel as an amusing novelty. That's about all I can say about this. It's literally left me speechless. I did manage to fix it after the video had been made. I added a 220uF capacitor across the 100uF one and it made it stable. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

A project that uses a small PCB and optional 3D printed case (not needed) to create a very simple spray of up to 20 LEDs that are powered from any USB power supply capable of at least 300mA. The LEDs can be fixed colour, colour changing, flickering, flashing, clear or diffused. Basically any standard LED. If the two pin sockets are used, the LEDs can be changed as desired. The open circuit voltage is low, so putting an LED in the wrong way round will not damage it. The end result is a very low power (just over 1W) spray of decorative points of light than can be left on continuously, as the running costs are virtually nothing. If desired, the resistor values can be increased to reduce power further for battery powered decorations. The PCB's zipped gerber files and the STL files for the case can be found here:- http://www.bigclive.com/freebies.htm The openscad scripts for the case are below. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Here's the openscad script for the case's base:- //USB LED dangleberries base $fn=100; difference(){ union(){ difference(){ union(){ //baseplate hull() { translate([29,11,0]) cylinder(h=5, d=14); translate([29,-11,0]) cylinder(h=5, d=14); translate([-29,11,0]) cylinder(h=5, d=14); translate([-29,-11,0]) cylinder(h=5, d=14); } } //base inner hull() { translate([29,11,1]) cylinder(h=5, d=10); translate([29,-11,1]) cylinder(h=5, d=10); translate([-29,11,1]) cylinder(h=5, d=10); translate([-29,-11,1]) cylinder(h=5, d=10); } } translate([-27.25,0,0]) cylinder(h=4, d=6); translate([27.25,9,0]) cylinder(h=4, d=6); translate([27.25,-9,0]) cylinder(h=4, d=6); } //screw holes translate([-27.25,0,-1]) cylinder(h=6,d=3); translate([27.25,9,-1]) cylinder(h=6,d=3); translate([27.25,-9,-1]) cylinder(h=6,d=3); } Here's the openscad script for the case's top:- //USB LED dangleberries base $fn=100; difference(){ union(){ difference(){ union(){ //baseplate hull() { translate([29,11,0]) cylinder(h=10, d=14); translate([29,-11,0]) cylinder(h=10, d=14); translate([-29,11,0]) cylinder(h=10, d=14); translate([-29,-11,0]) cylinder(h=10, d=14); } } //base inner hull() { translate([29,11,1]) cylinder(h=10, d=10); translate([29,-11,1]) cylinder(h=10, d=10); translate([-29,11,1]) cylinder(h=10, d=10); translate([-29,-11,1]) cylinder(h=10, d=10); } //USB port translate([32,-4,6.5]) cube([5,8,4]); //cable ports translate([-37,-13,2]) cube([5,10,10]); translate([-37,3,2]) cube([5,10,10]); } translate([-27.25,0,0]) cylinder(h=9.5, d=6); translate([27.25,9,0]) cylinder(h=9.5, d=6); translate([27.25,-9,0]) cylinder(h=9.5, d=6); } //screw holes translate([-27.25,0,1]) cylinder(h=12,d=2.5); translate([27.25,9,1]) cylinder(h=12,d=2.5); translate([27.25,-9,1]) cylinder(h=12,d=2.5); } #ElectronicsCreators

A very common PSU fault on a fairly nice power supply from a media player. Don't be fooled by the cheap SRBP (Synthetic Resin Bonded Paper) style PCB. It's been designed with common sense and safety in mind to comply with UK standards. The sizing of the diode array is probably mainly for the increased passive thermal dissipation. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This thing actually does disrupt molecules. By applying a high voltage to needle tips in front of oppositely charged rings it generates small points of electrical plasma that split air molecules into separate atoms, allowing some to recombine into short lived, but very useful active molecules like ozone. This project is designed to be used with the cheap ioniser style power supplies on eBay, and will convert them to a mini "ionic breeze" type unit that blows a gentle draught of air out the front with active components that have beneficial effects in some indoor environments. I made a video about ozone that explains more:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ymcJ9qKC7I Here are links to the PCB zipped gerber files. You'll probably have to copy and paste the links into your browser. YouTube might block links to zip files for security reasons. It's two separate designs because the corners are rounded and PCB makers may not like two different PCBs being submitted as a single panel. The main needle holding panel:- http://www.bigclive.com/ozone1.zip The front plate with different text:- http://www.bigclive.com/ozone3.zip I've since tested this module with mains voltage ioniser modules, and the differing module sizes give different levels of ozone output. If using the mains voltage modules I recommend using two 1 Megohm resistors in series with each wire for safety. Preferably 1/2W or 1W resistors for their higher voltage rating. It works very well with the 12V module I showed, which is effectively an ozone generator already with its two opposite polarity carbon fibre emitters. When used with this panel much more ozone is generated. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This inflatable light is based on a product called LuminAid that was created as a compact solar light with an inflatable diffuser that also allows it to float on water. I'm not sure what the original light has inside it, but this clone has a decent solar panel, very "recycled" lithium cell and a very minimalist PCB with a 1W Luxeon-style LED on it. With a fully charged cell the light should be quite bright. Maybe actually pushing the LED too hard given its lack of a heatsink and foam surround. I like the idea of autonomous floating solar lights. In a way it would be nice if the solar panel pointed into the diffuser so that it could charge while floating, but that might cause issues with the very minimalist dusk sensing feature. The lithium cell in this unit clearly has a history, but still managed to muster about 700mAh. It also has protection, which is important in this case as the PCB doesn't have overcharge protection circuitry. There's always that issue of charging solar lights in direct sunlight too, as the high temperature can cause issues. In this case the cell is at least under a reflective white surface. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This was one of the hardest things I've tried to open. They must put the glass in with a machine or have specialist silicone injection equipment. I had to Dremel the front of the case off to remove the glass. That means it is effectively unserviceable. It looks like an expensive and well made light, as the waterproof seals had actually kept the stormy waters of the Irish Sea at bay. The unit had suffered an electronic failure that caused half of the LEDs to be out, and the others were showing signs of age. These units were replaced with standard LED floodlights which the fishermen prefer anyway, as this unit has a very narrow beam. It's notable that although the casing was well designed for heat dissipation, there was no thermal compound between the PCB and housing. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Not a bad unit, with a very bold design using a microcontroller to run two independent switching converters. The double MOSFET for the fan had me puzzled at first until I reverse engineered it. The UVC LEDs are actually near-UVA running at less than 10mA each. And before anyone points me to the "research" showing that UVA can also kill bacteria, I'd suggest you actually read it with scepticism regarding the vague results that "it MIGHT be effective in killing SOME bacteria". It looks like marketing research to sell cheap disco lights as having germicidal properties. (But I'm always open to more solid research on this subject.) That aside, this little cooler unit is quite interesting in that it doesn't just rely on soaking water up wicks in the airflow to give an evaporative cooling effect. It does have those wicks, but supplies water to them - and also directly into the air with an overhead ultrasonic atomiser system. For the cost this whole unit would be useful just for the case, fan and directable vents. (mumble, mumble, ozone.) It could also be used as a crude low level hazer with the wicks removed and a fill of well diluted fog fluid. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I'm getting more messages from people who are receiving shocks from faulty LED lights - especially flood lights. The problem is caused by internal arcing that occurs in LEDs when they are part of large series strings being driven by high voltage supplies. When the LED fails open circuit it starts to arc and track internally, often causing flickering of the light in the process. Because the aluminium substrate LED panels have an extremely thin layer of insulation between the copper and aluminium, it is easy to damage it when an LED burns up, especially the newer directly mounted flip-chip LEDs. This results in a conductive path to the aluminium, which may not be grounded. The thin layer of insulation also causes unusual effects when people touch ungrounded LED lights with the switch on the neutral, and the LEDs glow because the person touching the ungrounded light provides a ground path for capacitively coupled current from the LED panel. With the high number of improperly grounded LED floodlights coming into the country via direct import or from distributors who have not tested their imported products properly, the risk of shock from outdoor lights (and some indoor lights) is increasing. This introduces a few secondary hazards. A metal fence or structure that the light is mounted to may become live, any shock from a light at height could result in a fall and the effects of rectified DC current leakage may affect the ability of some RCD/GFCI devices to trip, and may also prevent tripping when AC leakage occurs from another fault/shock. I'd recommend that extra precautions are taken to fully isolate faulty metal cased LED lights before working on them, and if there is any doubt about the power source then insulated gloves should be worn and work should only be done in dry weather. I'd also recommend that the ground integrity of lights is properly tested, and lights with flimsy copper coated aluminium flex have it replaced with something more appropriate if possible. It's best to source new lights from prominent suppliers in your country that have a reputation to uphold. That automatically excludes most eBay and amazon sellers. The circuitry on this panel was unusual. It was either an attempt to implement discrete intensity toggling, or to vary the current regulation according to the position in the sinewave. In this instance the separate LED packages themselves had burned clear before the substrate had been significantly damaged. A 500v insulation test showed it was intact. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

While scouring the Internet for interesting high voltage modules, I came across this little unit that stood out from the others by having two different coloured leads going to a classic double carbon-fibre emitter. There was no real information regarding its function, so I bought one to analyse. It was either going to be just two random wire colours commoned inside, possibly a high voltage one and one referenced to internal ground or possibly even opposing polarities. When it arrived, the first test I did was to see if both emitters were directly connected. They aren't. I then powered it up and used the floating probe test in front of the emitters to give a rough indication of ion polarity and level. The white lead showed a negative potential and the green one a positive potential. A full depotting and reverse engineering shows that the high voltage side has only a slight capacitive coupling to the low voltage side, and uses a two capacitor/diode voltage multiplier for a high negative voltage on the white lead, and the green lead is effectively high voltage ground. The vicinity of the carbon fibre tufts to each other, and high potential difference between them results in a very faint purple corona discharge on the tips and a very low level output of ozone. It appears that the primary function of this device is purely trace ozone production. I'd guess it's designed for use in generic fan/filter units for small rooms, or perhaps for vehicle use. The power consumption of the circuit is surprisingly low. It runs on 12V (with polarity protection) at a tiny current of 17mA (0.2W). That would make something like this perfect for use with a small 50mA 12V solar panel for adding a slight hint of ozone to remote buildings/vehicles likely to get musty. The lack of direct connection to the 12V supply and effective ionic "short circuit" at the emitter head suggests this unit won't have the issue of classic ionisers creating a high voltage difference between the primary and secondary of an isolated power supply. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

My hand soap dispenser started to get slower and slower, even with fresh batteries. So I decided it was time to open it and see what was wrong. Even with hand pumped foam dispensers, the fine metal or nylon mesh used to add the final layer of creaminess to the foam is prone to blocking over time with waterborne "stuff" (possibly organic). It's nice that this unit is actually serviceable, with both the pump and the schmoo-plumper suited to complete disassembly for cleaning. Quiescent current of this unit is around 2mA due to its need to continuously pulse the infrared LED. The microcontroller will turn the LED on then check the voltage from the photodiode and then turn the LED off again. It is usually only lit for as long as needed to get the reading. When it detects a sudden increase of infrared light reflected, it runs the schmoo-pump briefly to dispense the creamy schmoo. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

You've probably seen these on eBay, and in the two dimensional listing pictures they look great. Maybe not so great when seen in real 3D though. But they do have novelty value. They're basically an edge-lit acrylic panel with an outline and pattern cut/etched by what I would guess would be a laser. The bases are available on their own and the slot of about 4mm by 80mm has a set of 10 LEDs along its length. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

There's been a bit of a tradition of Poundland power banks not quite meeting their capacity specs, but this one does hit the 4Ah mark. The main features are USB-C charging at around 2A, a decent 2.5A output capability and the ability to put out 5V while also being charged to allow UPS (uninterruptible power supply) style functionality. The circuit board has a standard power bank chip and also a combined control/MOSFET battery protection chip. At £5 it's worth buying the unit for the bare lithium cell, but note that it's a standard type and not the high current type suited to drones and other high current applications. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This unit seems to be very retro. Like it was such a successful product that they didn't feel they needed to change the design. It's very stylish, but has so many bits that it must be expensive to make in terms of plastic mouldings and the assembly time. I'm surprised they haven't streamlined the design down to just a few parts. The Japanese have always embraced the concept of replenishing the active molecules in air. That might sound a bit quack-ish, but in reality there are certain essential elements of air that have a short half-life in enclosed areas, and need to be created on demand. They are the ones that actively oxidise impurities and deactivate mold spores, bacteria and viruses. I bought one of these units a very long time ago, and I mean decades ago. I treated it as a novelty until I needed the batteries for something else. Now I understand more about how it works and what it does, I appreciate the design more. Especially in the case of this unit where they have made an effort to keep quiescent (ambient standby) current very low to allow a long battery life. I didn't really describe the strange battery monitoring circuit enough, so here's some more detail. When the ozone module is powered the battery monitor is also powered. The 10K resistor acts as a pull-down resistor to the microcontroller's input pin that gets pulled high by the transistor when it's turned on. The transistor starts turning on when its base is around 0.6V below the positive supply rail, and that is scaled down by the bridge of 4K7 (4700 ohm) and 22K (22,000 ohm) resistors which roughly scale the input to 1/5th. That means the transistor will be turned on until the battery voltage drops below around 3V. So the microcontroller can detect the low battery voltage and flash the red warning LED. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I've used these in the past, and marvelled at how they can withstand such a high voltage in such a small component. I decided to take one apart to see how it's made. I ended up taking more than one apart. The construction is surprisingly simple, with a very retro alternative to resin potting. The alternative triggering circuits I mentioned sometimes use the thyristor pulling the transformer common connection to the zero volt rail, or put the capacitor where I drew the thyristor and a sidac in series with the primary. I dug out a more accurate set of calipers and remeasured the wires. Both transformers had a 0.28mm diameter (29AWG?) primary wire and a 0.12mm diameter (36AWG?) secondary wire. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Ozone has always been present in natural outdoor air. It's how nature regulates the presence of mold, viruses, bacteria and VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) in air, and why enclosed spaces like cupboards and unventilated attics can get quite "musty". It has a very distinct odour that could be described as a fresh bleach-like smell, and when scientists first identified it they thought its fresh smell was invigorating and healthful. In reality, if you can smell it then there's too much to be breathing continuously. That's not to say that a brief burst of higher level ozone might have a benefit of killing bacterial infections in lungs. But sustained high levels will cause irritation, and really high concentrations will cause cellular damage just like chlorine would cause skin damage in a swimming pool if used at a very high concentration. Although ozone occurs outdoors as a natural part of air, it has a very short lifespan due to its active function of oxidising stuff. So nature creates it continuously with various environmental photochemical and electrostatic effects. Those effects are not normally present in indoor areas, so unless there's a continuous flow of fresh air from outside, the level of ozone in indoor air will gradually deplete to near zero and give a competitive edge to spores, viruses, bacteria and other airborne contaminants. There are two ways to maintain the ozone content of the air indoors. One is to have open windows or fans giving a continuous fresh supply of active outdoor air, or in situations where a continuous flow of outdoor air is undesirable (like in peak summer and winter) it's viable to create it at a similar level by electronic means. Fortunately this can be done with extremely low power. Indoor ozone generators have a rather exciting and extreme history, from the fantastic looking units with clusters of neon tubes with capacitive corona discharge between them producing a high level of ozone, to the notorious but technically pleasing Ionic Breeze units with their corona discharge wires and fins. (Corona discharge refers to the crown-like appearance of electrical plasma. It has NOTHING to do with the similarly named virus.) High power ozone generators have their uses for deodorising hotel rooms, and helping reduce the smell of smoke in used vehicles and smoke damaged premises. But they are absolutely NOT suitable for use in occupied areas. They are the equivalent of a shock chlorine treatment in a swimming pool. One of the most common trace level ozone replenishers is probably the classic needlepoint air ioniser. These units apply a high negative voltage at safe low current (microamps) to sharp needles or carbon fibre tufts, which then create an electrostatic charge in the air. That charge causes airborne dust and spores to precipitate out to any grounded surface including floors, walls and ceilings. One unexpected side effect of the ionisation of the air is a tiny plasma glow at the tips of the needles. That creates a continuous trace level of ozone that is nowhere even near the natural outdoor level, but still at a level that makes it useful indoors. Unfortunately, many companies made ozone generators and then called them ionisers to cash in on their popularity. Many of those use the same needle system, but have an oppositely charged ring in front of the needle. This causes a very high ionic airflow and causes a much stronger plasma discharge on the needles. The glow is often very visible as a series of purple dots in these units. Some operate at a sensible level, but others are a bit fierce in their ozone output. A recent trend - possibly initiated by the Japanese company Sharp - is to use two emitters, with one at a positive voltage and one at a negative voltage. This results in a high ionic flow that creates a very controlled low level plasma discharge. Because of the aggressive anti-ozone militants, the manufacturers of these units tend to avoid saying the O-word and instead create heavy marketing about hydroxyl radicals (a molecule consisting of one atom of oxygen and one of hydrogen). In reality there are a wide variety of short-lived active air molecules created. Japan LOVES it's ionic air purifiers. They're in almost every home, workplace and public building. They have effectively been doing a long term scientific test for decades. I firmly believe that devices that produce a trickle of ozone and other active air molecules to replenish indoor air to a level of between 1 to 10 parts per billion are essential to maintain indoor air quality. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm

An interesting dishwasher mechanism sent by George for our exploration. It's door opening mechanism for a dishwasher. It doesn't open it right up, it simply pushes it out of the catch and lets steam escape during the drying cycle. The machine had stopped popping the door open and the service engineer replaced both the mech and the control module. I gave the wax motor another test outside its case and it had effectively bottomed out when in situ. The spring plate at the back is purely to prevent damage if it can't open the door. It's possible that a touch of plastic-safe lubricant on the part of the door catch that gets gripped, would help fix sluggish opening issues. (By making it easier to push the catch out to open the door.) I started reverse engineering the control module, but had to give up due to the mass of very fine tracks repeatedly jumping back and forth on each side of a PCB absolutely covered in through hole vias. I'd have to print it out on a much larger scale and trace each connection individually. It looks a very straightforward unit with a small number of connections dealing with inputs and controlling a separate power supply and switching module elsewhere in the machine (probably in the base.) The cluster of 9 pads in a 3X3 configuration are exposed externally to allow testing and programming of the PCB in situ. The main things of note are the high level of protection on all inputs to avoid rogue voltage spikes from reaching the processor. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This Android based sat nav was sent to me by Alan, who used it for about a year before it started struggling to find satellites. I'm wondering if the satellite reception issue was caused by degradation of the adhesive on the very rough internal screening, the impedance of the battery rising, or degradation of filter components. The battery tested with a capacity of around 1Ah, and using a PSU in its place resulted in an active current draw of 600mA and a decent satellite lock. The unit is reminiscent of the horrible low-spec tablets that came out when the Android system first appeared. Many manufacturers tried to make the units as cheap as possible, resulting in a very sluggish interface, but actually not that bad for an application like this. Google stopped supporting low-end devices a while ago, so they will have to rely on their own software. I'm not sure how easy it is to update maps on something like this. A modern tablet using Google Maps would be a preferred option. My first experience of sat nav was a Tomtom Go. I was travelling with a film grip and he handed me the unit. I had never seen one before, and I was so impressed that the next day I went into the city centre and bought one. It made travelling to film, TV and other work locations infinitely easier than with maps. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Over 8 years ago I fitted some outdoor plastic planters with strings of Chinese sign pixels (single colour LED studs) and a small solar panel. It looked great, but the solar panel assemblies turned out to be far less reliable than the LEDs. This video shows a section of the LEDs after over 8 years of continuous exposure to sun, rain and frost. Here's a typical listing on eBay:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283318211497 Typical keywords are:- 50pcs led sign pixels 5v Target price around £$€ 6. There are two types. 5V and 12V. Both will be the same intensity and draw the same current, but the 12V version will effectively use over twice as much power. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Harveys Bristol Cream Sherry. Basically white wine with extra sugar and ethanol to give it more whack. But will it carbonate? Let's find out. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Subscribing to the channel makes it easier to find in the future. #ElectronicsCreators

I may or may not have had a slight incident involving LEDs and 240V. I quite enjoy just randomly modifying things for no particular reason at all. It's very therapeutic to do something with no real purpose. That's what I was doing here, until I inadvertently added some excitement. When I smooshed the LEDs in to make way for the bottle, a solder spike pierced the other conductor. It was a one in a thousand chance with quite a few variables. The reassuring crack was an LED demonstrating their excellent abilities to break high current faults in a controlled manner. When I replaced the LEDs I cropped them down in size to leave room for the wire. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

An easy tool to build using any case you can find, to allow testing and fast side by side comparison of LEDs to help choose the best colour, intensity and spread. I built the first of these a very long time ago when the very first affordable gallium nitride LEDs were appearing on eBay. The first ones were clearly factory seconds, so there was a lot of variation in quality. But the availability and lower cost allowed a much larger amount to be used in technical props. The unit has two sockets on the front, which are just standard two pole 0.1" (2.54mm) pitch sockets. You can use any type with a socket size small enough to accept an LED lead. When an LED is put in it will either be at full brightness (about 20mA) or a very low intensity at around 5-10uA. The low current can be used to indicate a bad LED as they should normally glow even at such a low current. If they don't glow it may indicate a potentially faulty LED even if it lights up at full current. (Leakage resistance through a faulty layer.) When two LEDs are put into the sockets you can toggle between them while looking at the projected beam against a wall or other surface. That lets you quickly compare intensity, shape of beam and colour variation. There can be a very wide intensity difference between similar LEDs. The search keyword for the connectors is KF2510 In hindsight I could have added a barrier between the back of the sockets in case LED leads are pushed in too far and contact internal connections. This 3D printed version is a prototype. You don't need to use a 3D printed case. If you do want to 3D print one, the openscad scripts are down below. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators Openscad script for main body of prototype tester:- //LED tester and comparer body hole=5; //size of switch hole difference(){ union(){ //main block translate([0,0,0]) cube([103,36,22]); } //battery compartment translate([8,2,2]) cube([57,32,21]); //switch compartment translate([67,2,2]) cube([26,32,21]); //switch hole translate([80,18,-1]) cylinder(h=4,d=hole,$fn=50); //battery cable slot translate([64,5,7]) cube([4,3,21]); //1st connector body translate([90,9,9]) cube([20,5,15]); //1st connector fin trough translate([94,13.5,9]) cube([8,2,15]); //2nd connector body translate([90,22,9]) cube([20,5,15]); //2nd connector fin trough translate([94,26.5,9]) cube([8,2,15]); //plastic/time saver translate([2,8,2]) cube([9,20,21]); //self-tapper holes size 4 translate([4,4,5]) cylinder(h=20,d=2.5,$fn=50); translate([4,32,5]) cylinder(h=20,d=2.5,$fn=50); translate([99,4,5]) cylinder(h=20,d=2.5,$fn=50); translate([99,32,5]) cylinder(h=20,d=2.5,$fn=50); } Openscad script for lid:- //LED tester and comparer lid difference(){ union(){ //main block translate([0,0,0]) cube([103,36,2]); //1st connector retainer translate([95,9,0]) cube([8,5,9]); //2nd connector retainer translate([95,22,0]) cube([8,5,9]); } //self-tapper holes translate([4,4,-1]) cylinder(h=20,d=3,$fn=50); translate([4,32,-1]) cylinder(h=20,d=3,$fn=50); translate([99,4,-1]) cylinder(h=20,d=3,$fn=50); translate([99,32,-1]) cylinder(h=20,d=3,$fn=50); }

The Chinese and Japanese sure do love their solid state air freshener units, and this is by far one of the best I've come across yet. It's unusual in having proper lithium battery protection, and the ability to operate continuously on a USB charger. It's a unit that creates ozone on demand by applying a high voltage between a needle and ring to cause a small plasma discharge that temporarily rearranges oxygen atoms. It uses ionic airflow to carry the resultant ozone into the surrounding area. The units are available in two versions. A battery version that takes four AA cells and runs for one of three durations when activated, or a USB rechargeable version that will cycle on and off to provide a continuous low level of ozone in timed bursts. The units are sold for freshening cupboards and fridges and can be found by searching for this keyword string:- Refrigerator Air Purifier Closet Deodorizer Filter Fridge Food Fresh Keeper If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This device is intended to heat and froth milk by whipping air into it. I was sent this by Thomas Nagy, a London electrician with a youtube channel:- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6EJTy6p58ZW16PEljSn4Qw The unit has failed, let's take it to bits and see what went wrong. Unusually retro power supply. Probably for reliability. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is actually one of the best of these units I've taken apart. It gets hot enough to cause a visible vapour from the pads, and the internal construction of the heater seems solid. The use of a mica sheet as an insulator between the heater and hot surface is probably due to the same assembly being used for 100V-240V units. Thanks to Charles for the sweets/candy and a bag of LEDs. Big Turk is similar to the UK's Fry's turkish delight, but with much firmer gel. Coffee Crisp is a large wafer. The peanut crisp had a very distinctive layered crispy sugar texture. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

On one hand this cheaply made light is impressive because of how they've managed to strike the tube with the same component that limits current through it. The tube is also run on AC which is also good. But as always with these types of mini-light, they start the tube cold-cathode style which causes rapid electrode damage. And any loose connection causes arcing and instantly visible electrode sputtering stains inside the tube. This is made somewhat worse by the very sloppy electrical construction which ensures bad connections. Very interesting to see how they cut corners and got a low component count with standard parts though. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

One day I'll find an older version of this type of unit that has the original circuitry. It dates back a long way to when the first versions were made with discrete transistors and capacitors. The schematic is just a rough doodle. It isn't a suggested circuit, as it would require a bit of experimentation with component values to find the sweet spot. While the blob chips do reduce manufacturing costs significantly (it's a bare chip bonded to the PCB), it also takes some of the magic out of reverse engineering something like this. For further exploration, the keywords on google are magnetic pendulum If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The choice of Poundland lights has been disappointing this year so far. That's not surprising, given the logistics problems caused by the pandemic. This is a light they've had for a few years, but the style has evolved from time to time. It's very effective, especially with the neat bit of bubbled plastic light-guide. The circuitry has the extra components required to use a colour changing LED, although it runs the LED at such a low current that the lower voltage red LED tends to dominate colours that include red. (magenta, yellow and white) It's actually worth getting these just for the PCB to fix other lights. But you can also hack these to make them single colour, two different colour LEDs wired in series, or add an LED socket as in this video. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Another crucial scientific experiment in the non-approved beverage carbonation series. The individual depicted on the bottle's label is Harvey Milk, a San Francisco city supervisor. You can see his volatile and ultimately tragic story here:- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harvey_Milk If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The star of this video is the XC610 SoC (system on chip) microcontroller, that is a reminder of how far things have evolved. With just a regulator, the chip and three MOSFETs it allows remote control of an RGB colour effect by an Android or Apple phone. Part of the work is being done by the phone app called Happy Lighting, which has to arrange connection, note the location for specific unit control, and provide a human control interface. The controller does appear to remember the last colour setting after a short delay. Probably to avoid making too many writes to the memory. So you could theoretically connect, set and forget if you wanted a specific colour. I'm not a huge fan of loading random apps on my phone in case of malware issues. I'm also aware that there are always security issues in any communication network that could allow a bluetooth device like a keyboard to self-run devious strings of keypresses (rubber ducky). Especially given the capabilities of the processors used in many wifi and bluetooth products. The processor datasheet can be found by searching for xinchip xc610 There is a higher pin count version available, which explains the missing PWM1 module. From the datasheet there does seem to be a significant amount of memory on the chips. I wondered if it might just have been referring to an upper externally addressable range. I guess that's to support the use of more bloated library style code. The quiescent current of the chip with well written software that puts it into a proper sleep state is just 1uA - or 14uA in suspended mode. Pretty neat little controller. Very minimalist, and using the firmware to do the serious stuff. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

It's definitely deformable, but I'm not sure how this unit prevents seepage, or even what they mean by that. This is a folding lamp that can be angled to suit the area you want illuminated, while also conveniently fitting into a small shipping box. The construction seems OK, although the power dissipation and plastic casing is a bit concerning for LED longevity. The driver layout looks OK and is quite neat. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This little light is cheap and trashy, but it works and has scope for improvement. Easiest improvement would be to add a much bigger lithium cell, so it lasts longer between charges. There's a void of about 6mm under the PCB for the battery. A classic Nokia style cell does fit in the space. This unit uses an unusual chip that seems to be dedicated to the function of a PIR light. It interfaces with a common PIR sensor and seems to deal with detecting signal fluctuations and timing without any external capacitors other than a basic filter. I've not managed to pin down the exact chip yet. The most notable oddity is the use of pins 2+ and 4- for power. Searching on your local eBay for the following keyword string should find them:- LED Motion Sensor Light Night PIR Battery Wireless Cabinet Stair Lamps Magnetic Target price is around £$€5. The chip has been identified as an mx8098g If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

I've never really been impressed by side-glow fibre optic material. It's a specific type of fibre optic that is lossy, so it emits light along its full length. The downside of that is that it also loses intensity along its length. When it first appeared commercially it was touted as the new replacement for neon, with overexposed marketing pictures to swamp out the camera and make it look brighter and more consistent than it is. I can recall seeing it in use on the front of a building in Florida, and there was a bright light source at both ends that rapidly faded to the middle of the strip. This stuff is aimed at car interiors where the "skirt" or fin is intended to be jammed between abutting interior surfaces. Electroluminescent wire would do a better job for low level linear illumination over a reasonable length. The light source module is the best bit of this product. It has potential uses for illuminating a bundle of traditional fibre optics. The sources are available on their own with a choice of port diameter. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

My brother Ralfy brought over more of his solar lights for repair. This time the fault was caused by "unreasonable force". If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This must be the first time I've ever referred to the humble 555 as a microcontroller. To be fair, it does have 8 pins and runs at 5V. Maybe a few less transistors though. Huge processing-power errors aside, this is an interesting and different use of the 555 from normal. It doesn't use the main output pin, but instead uses the standard configuration to provide a triangular waveform directly from the capacitor. This is a very retro circuit, but it works well and is fully serviceable at every level, with scope for customisation in terms of PWM frequency and potentiometer range. The search keywords to find these on eBay are - rgb knob dimmer If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This is an unusual one. It's the very hefty LED module out of a streetlight, that has failed prematurely. The failure mode is odd. The high open circuit voltage from the universal Xitanium driver has resulted in tracking on the aluminium core PCB, that has progressively burned along a thin copper track, eating right through to the aluminium layer to sustain the tracking current. Tracking is when the carbon created from a burning connection or current leakage causes the formation of a conductive path. After the unofficial repair I tested for voltage on the heatsink plate with reference to the positive and negative LED supply. There was no significant voltage, so the tracking has purely been using the aluminium as a current path as it nibbled its way along the thin track. In this case the LED might have fluctuated a bit before failing, but the current regulated supply with high open circuit voltage (300V minus combined LED voltage) would have maintained the illumination via the fault until it finally burned clear. My fix involved heating the whole module up to facilitate soldering on the heatsinked PCB, removing LEDs on damaged pads, and then linking that section out with a thin wire (thin copper tape could have worked too). The current automatically regulated to the remaining LEDs, so the result is a working, very slightly dimmer streetlight. (about 6% dimmer) It's firmly in the category of an emergency repair for using the panel in less critical applications. The fact one LED has failed suggests others may follow suit. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

From the same range as another unit I looked at recently, this one has an open PCB power supply with a very retro, but good high voltage PSU. Unlike many of the cheap eBay modules, this one hasn't skimped on components and pushed them hard. Instead it seems a logical and well thought-out design with the components kept within their ratings. The filter across the transistor and complex feedback array to give fast transistor switching show that the person who designed this was knowledgeable in this area of design. Current draw of this unit is around 100mA at 12V meaning it might be suited to use with a small solar panel in a remote location to keep cabins from going stale. For those who haven't guessed, the unit is a vehicle ozone generator, which would actually be OK for freshening a stale vehicle interior, but might be a bit too strong for continuous use in a small vehicle cab. The high negative voltage on the spikes causes a plasma discharge at the spike tips, and the charged air then gets attracted towards the positive plate, causing a surprisingly strong airflow with no moving parts. The plasma discharge causes oxygen molecules to break into separate oxygen atoms that can recombine temporarily as ozone and other molecules in the same process found in nature. These active components of air are a natural air sanitiser that has the ability to deactivate airborne contaminants like viruses, bacteria and spores. Although ozone is harmful in large quantities, it is safe at the levels found in nature. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

An experiment conducted for my brother Ralfy to do an analysis on in one of his own videos. I don't think I've ever tasted such a strongly flavoured whisky as Laphroaig. It lives up to its reputation. Here's the link to Ralfy's video:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCV5q_vZyOY If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

This old Wylex RCD /GFCI is the simplest I have ever seen. The sensing core is especially unusual. It's worth mentioning that the unit is marked as an ELCB (Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker), but these days it would be called an RCD (Residual Current Device) in the UK or a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) in other countries. The term ELCB was dropped a long time ago due to the risk of confusion between voltage operated units (a coil detects a voltage difference between metalwork) and current operated units that detect a difference between the current flowing out and back through the breaker. The modern current operated versions are much safer as they detect more fault conditions than the old voltage operated devices. This one was used in a TT electrical system where the house is supplied from overhead lines with a single phase and neutral, but no earth. It relies on an earth electrode at the substation (bonded to neutral) and a local earth electrode at the house to provide a path for fault current. Because the impedance (resistance) of the path through the ground is higher than a direct wired link it requires that the installation be protected by one or more RCDs/GFCIs to ensure that any significant current leakage from live to earth/ground trips out the power for safety. This unit was retired from use after it failed to trip with a significant live to earth fault that passed 8A continuously (suggesting a 30 ohm earth loop impedance). It was replaced with an isolator and a new distribution board with two separate sections, each with its own 30mA RCD. I recommend testing RCDs at least once a year by pressing the test button. It emulates a fault and does a full test of sensing and tripping the breaker. If the breaker does not trip instantly or after the designated time delay for programmable units, then do not hold the button in for longer as it may result in failure of the test resistor with unpredictable results. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The circuitry in this unit is strange. It almost appears to be for diagnostic purposes, or maybe to add an air of sophistication. The PCB at the front could literally be removed and replaced by a single LED. Although this unit is described as an ioniser, it's more of an ozone generator. There's definitely air ionisation involved, but it's immediately followed by an opposite polarity plate to create a distinct plasma discharge and strong breeze. The discharge on the end of the sharp stainless steel spikes is very visible in a dimly lit room. The unit produces enough ozone to be an irritant in a small space, but in a large house it could be viable for replenishing the active elements of the natural air that quickly dissipate in an indoor environment. (Normal outdoor air typically contains around 0.01 parts per million of ozone.) There's a removable aroma-bead capsule in the base, and the unit is supplied with nauseating vanilla scented beads. It seems strange to do that with an ozone generator. It might be to mask the smell of ozone in its direct vicinity. I'm pretty sure these units go back a long way, which might explain the slightly retro circuitry. They go under various brands with fairly full-on marketing. It's reassuring that they do specifically mention the ozone or "active oxygen" in their technical data, and even state an ozone output of 5mg an hour. The style and construction is actually very good. They feel solid with a nice texture on the plastic surface. Internally, the stainless spike-plate, aluminium panel and potted high voltage module seem well designed. I'm pro-ozone if used to refresh indoor air at very low levels. This unit is probably best suited to quite large areas. I'm not sure it would be wise to use it in a small bedroom. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

Just when you thought they couldn't make an LED lamp simpler than the common linear regulator type, they come out with this. It's basically a single package combining the rectifier and current regulator into a single package. These lamps work by using enough multi-chip LEDs in series to approach the normal mains voltage, but then use a linear current regulator to keep the current constant by acting as an active resistor, with a small voltage dropped across it. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

The original concept of air ionisers is attributed to a Russian scientist called Alexander Chizhevsky. I thought I'd honour him with a build of an ioniser with a needle array styled on the Chizhevsky Chandeliers, which were large ornate metal frames with lots of ionising spikes on them, that were hung from the ceilings of large public buildings in Russia. The needle array I ended up building for this unit is based on a disk of PCB material drilled with holes and fitted with a circle of needles. I'd hoped to bend the needles out at 45 degrees, but they turned out to be very brittle. In reality, while the electrostatic precipitation of dust was a useful if somewhat messy effect, the ambient generation of trace levels of ozone and other short-lived active molecules prevalent in natural outdoor air was probably the real reason the ionisers gave a renewed freshness to the stale indoor air. Here's a link to Alexander's Wikipedia page:- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexander_Chizhevsky If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators You can download the Minion PCB manufacturing files at this link, ready for submitting as a single file to a PCB manufacturer:- http://www.bigclive.com/freebies.htm Here's the openscad script for the 3D printed diode former:- //BCDC Diode lead former for ioniser/ionizer difference(){ union(){ //main block translate([0,0,0]) cube([30,19,4]); } //lead recess translate([-1,9,3.5]) cube([30,1,1]); //diode recess translate([22,8,2.51]) cube([9,3,3]); //lead guide translate([29,9,-1]) cube([1.1,1,6]); }

This is a very simple LED based neon-style ornament. The frame will accommodate standard 6mm wide LED neon strip, so it can be refitted with your choice of colour. The most interesting thing about this ornament is the custom made LED strip with specific LED colours to suit the shape. Here's the listing I bought this from, as a starter search. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313456304080 Target price around £$€10-15. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction) Or alternatively:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators

In an ongoing experiment involving putting common drinks through a water distiller, it's the turn of red wine. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

Summer is approaching, and as always it's time to fix duff solar garden lights. Prime candidates for faulty solar lights are:- Worn out battery from being cooked in summer, and the high number of charge/discharge cycles (365 a year). Common dollar store or pound shop rechargeable NiMh cells are usually a good replacement. Corroded on/off switch. These switches are very prone to corrosion and can be bridged out. Their only purpose is to disconnect the battery when in storage. Corroded or stress fractured solar panel. The continuous DC voltage present on solar panels means they are very prone to rapid corrosion from water ingress. The silicon resin potted in plastic approach also puts lots of physical stress on the cells and connections due to differing thermal expansion rates in sunlight. PCB corrosion due to condensation. You can prevent this by coating the PCB in grease/vaseline or nail polish. I've checked online and Festive Lights do indeed ship to the Isle of Man. https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/festive-lights If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

I wondered how these LED filaments were configured inside, so I decided to explore one - using the splendid lamp X-ray device that AvE sent me. The internal construction of the filament is odd and not quite what I expected. The circuit is effectively 42 LEDs in series with a resistor in the base of the lamp. The filament can operate on either polarity due to the unusual rectifying system used. Note that I inadvertently got the LED rectifier diodes wrong at one end. It was very late when I made the video. Originally I wanted to draw out the schematic, but ran out of time. Here's a link to the video where AvE made the copper X-ray unit:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivrxXEUWHL8 If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

These very minimalist G40 (40mm diameter) lamps seem to have a reputation for failing quite regularly. The drive circuitry is the simplest I've ever seen, but has failure built in as usual. While the E12 festoon seems popular in other countries it is rarely seen here due to our higher voltage potentially causing tracking/flashover issues in the small lamp holders. These ones are punched in parallel onto two core cable, but with clearly visible holes in the base. I've seen this stuff strung vertically and horizontally outdoors here, fully exposed to the rain. It'll be interesting to see how it fares in the weather. I'd strongly recommend you don't handle these holders while they are wet. Especially with a 220-240V supply. In the video I did the dooby test and put a capacitor in series with the entire string. The built in resistors mean the lamps share the current evenly if they are identical lamps. To get a good (reduced) intensity you will need a capacitor with a value of at least 1uF for short 230V strings, or more if using 120V strings, or more than one plugged end to end. A safety resistor of around 1 Megohm will need to be put across the capacitor to discharge it when the power is turned off. Any reduction in intensity will result in much longer lamp life - mainly by reducing the strain on the internal resistor. With a lower value capacitor these simple lights still work at greatly reduced intensity, and even longer life. The capacitors are standard metalised film type with a rating of 400V (230V AC) or 250V (120V AC). The AC filaments are odd. I may have to use AvE's copper swing-press to x-ray one. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

A teardown of B&Q's (like Home Depot) biggest lamp. It didn't go to plan. Things worthy of note. If opening one of these, you have to remove the two screws from the LED panel - as they aren't just tapped into the aluminium heatsink plate, but into plastic pillars that hold everything in. Given the poor thermal coupling and 15.5W rating for such a small LED PCB I wonder if they melt those pillars. The base has reasonable heatsinking capability, but the poor contact hints at a short lamp life. I'm surprised that this lamp isn't in the same style of the common single PCB lamps with a linear current regulator on the same panel as the LEDs. Especially given its high power rating. I guess they may evolve in that direction in the future, as it is a much simpler way of creating the high power lamps. The globe on these lamps is well glued on. You may have to take your time cutting through the silicone-style glue with a blunt knife (don't use a sharp one). Be careful not to lever too hard, as it may crack the plastic shell of the base. There's a lot of room inside, so plenty of room for different power supplies (like the roughed up capacitive dropper I made) or even a custom low voltage LED panel for 12V use. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

Following on from the experimental whisky distillation, I thought it would be interesting to re-distill a bottle of Jagermeister through my water distiller to see what came out. The still I used is a water distiller that is absolutely not intended for fancy distillation of spirits. It does a very rough all-or-nothing pass of the contents. I normally use it for distilling water to use in fog fluids and for low residue PCB cleaning. It's a Megahome water distiller from eBay. Here's my brother Ralfy's video where he tastes the results:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z755QiS8tNs If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

This odd little light was suggested by Stephen Eyles. It's basically a low power floodlight that projects a wash of uneven colour onto a wall or other surface. The insides are very simple and can be modified if desired with either a coloured LED or custom filter. The adhesive on the lens came off well with isopropanol without damaging the plastic. The LED driver chip has two numbers on it:- 7611ASH and KL1A23B I think it may be one of those "for manufacturers only" chips. But it's probably similar to a classic Brightpower chip. To find these lights on eBay use the keywords "LED sunset light". Price guide £€$10-15. Some are USB powered and some mains powered. The USB ones may have a simple resistor current limiter on the same PCB as the LED. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

I thought it would be interesting to take a look at a small home air filter unit with a fairly big pleated filter. It uses quite a small fan, so it creates enough noise to be annoying if used in a bedroom, unless you wanted background noise. (It helps some people sleep). The fan speed control method is unusual. A search showed that the replacement filter costs as much as the full unit supplied with one! I wonder if that's just due to the wide range of prices online, or if it's just to hook customers into an ongoing expense. When I was looking on eBay I noticed that people were selling used units with old filters. Aside from getting a used filter from an unknown environment, you don't know how long the filter has been in use. Others were being sold with no filter, probably because they couldn't get a new one or it cost more than a new unit. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

The use of a standard CR2032 lithium cell in one of these switches is a refreshing change from the common miniature 12V batteries. It should theoretically have a very long operational life. The switch came with the battery separate, but opening it the first time was extremely difficult. I thought it was going to break. I could see some of these being damaged just trying to put the battery in for the first time. Other listings show a battery pull tab. I've ordered a version with external battery drawer for us to take apart. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

If you've ever heard a loud click at a random time from your fridge or freezer, it's most likely the defrost timer initiating a cycle. You'd think it might be something simple like a continuous timer that switches from running to defrosting for a specific amount of time each day, but it's much more clever than that. It only accumulates time between defrosts based on the total amount of compressor run time, and will terminate the defrost and switch back to chilling as soon as the maximum defrost temperature is reached. The gear mechanism itself is very clever. It uses a special type of gear wheel that increments the next gear in single steps per revolution to allow a long time interval, and uses a similar gear to turn the switch cam in decisive steps to allow the contacts to change state twice in a very short rotation angle. The contacts are moved by two spiral cams that gradually reset them for most of the revolution, but then have a sudden snap action at the end. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

This unit has been sitting in my bedroom for a while now. It's extremely quiet and just gradually moves the room air through the cheap disposable paper filter on an ongoing basis 24/7. This new version has a simpler mounting with separate top plate with a small section of anti-turbulence fins. It still uses a cheap eBay illuminated 120mm fan as a good compromise between function and noise. The smaller fans tend to be a bit high pitched and noisy. For an area where noise is less critical a stronger fan could be used. The hole pattern is less efficient than the original square matrix, but looks much more stylish. Especially with the fan's illumination. I may look at combining the two designs to put the square hole matrix onto the round platen. For those new to the project it's based on a conventional air purifier that draws the room air through a particulate filter. Unlike the commercial units, this one has a cheap and easy to source filter material in the form of paper towel or toilet paper. Both of those materials are based on a high density random lay of wood fibre that results in a filter medium that can potentially filter out particles in the region of one micron and up. That includes most dust and spores. Best of all, the filter can be changed as often as you like, as it's cheap and easily available. Do not use paper as a fan filter on a computer. They require coarse high airflow filters to keep things like fluff and hair out. The 3D openscad scripts are below. There are four separate scripts. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Here are the 3D printing files. You will need to copy and paste them into openscad so you can adjust the variables if you like, and then build the final model and save it as an STL file. The first script is for the base/fan-adaptor. You can adjust the height and screw hole sizes. //MKII adaptor for 120mm fan $fn=100; //You can adjust the two variables below depth=40; //depth of air chamber (40) hole=4; //fan screw holes (4) difference(){ union(){ //baseplate hull() { for (i=[0:90:330])rotate([0, 0, i]){ translate([74,0,0]) cylinder(h=1.5, d1=15, d2=15); } } //Main outer cylinder cylinder(h=depth, d1=120, d2=120); } //internal cylinder translate([0,0,-1]) cylinder(h=depth+2,d1=118,d2=118); //screw holes for (i=[0:90:330])rotate([0, 0, i]){ translate([74.5,0,-1]) cylinder(h=4, d1=hole, d2=hole); } } The second script is for the top platen for the filter paper. //MK3 platen for filter paper on 120mm fan $fn=100; //You can adjust the variables below depth=10; //depth of lip and fins (10) platen=1.5; //thickness of platen (1.5) //don't adjust anything below here hole=platen+2; difference(){ union(){ //platen cylinder(h=platen, d1=140, d2=140); //Main outer cylinder cylinder(h=depth+platen, d1=118, d2=118); } //internal cylinder translate([0,0,platen]) cylinder(h=depth+platen,d1=116,d2=116); //filter hole pattern for (i=[0:45:330])rotate([0, 0, i]){ translate([35,0,-1]) cylinder(h=hole, d1=20, d2=20); translate([16,0,-1]) cylinder(h=hole, d1=10, d2=10); } for (i=[22.5:45:350])rotate([0, 0, i]){ translate([24,0,-1]) cylinder(h=hole, d1=10, d2=10); translate([41,0,-1]) cylinder(h=hole, d1=10, d2=10); translate([32.5,0,-1]) cylinder(h=hole, d1=5, d2=5); } translate([0,0,-1]) cylinder(h=hole, d1=20, d2=20); } //anti turbulence fins difference(){ for (i=[0:45:330])rotate([0, 0, i]){ translate([46,-0.5,0]) cube([12,1,depth+platen]); } } The third script is for the feet. You will need to print four of them. //MKII leg for 120mm fan $fn=100; //You can adjust the two variables below depth=50; //height of leg hole=4; //screw holes difference(){ union(){ //Main outer cylinder cylinder(h=depth, d1=12, d2=12); } //internal cylinder translate([0,0,2]) cylinder(h=depth+2,d1=10,d2=8); translate([0,0,-1]) cylinder(h=4,d1=hole,d2=hole); translate([0,0,depth-1]) cylinder(h=2,d1=10,d2=10); } The last script is for the weighted paper ring if desired. //Weighted ring for paper $fn=100; //The variables below can be adjusted if desired depth=2; //depth (weight) of ring inner=100; //inner hole diameter of ring outer=140; //outer diameter of ring difference(){ union(){ //main disk cylinder(h=depth, d1=outer, d2=outer); } //hole in middle translate([0,0,-1]) cylinder(h=depth+2,d1=inner,d2=inner); }

This started as a slight spoof of Ralfy's whisky channel, but then yielded a completely unexpected result. Yes I did do the clickbait thing I joked about in the video. Here's Ralfy's fairly open minded analysis of the contents of the two bottles. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4NxZjrWB3wM If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

While pondering buying a HEPA style air filter for my bedroom, I noticed that there wasn't much info on the availability of replacement air filters for many of the units being sold on eBay. I started looking at general purpose filters and discovered tests had been done on various household materials to determine their effectiveness as filters for emergency mask use. Some of the most effective filter materials were paper towels, coffee filters and other similar random-lay wood fibre materials. Research suggests that standard kitchen paper towel may be capable of filtering around 95% of 1 micron and larger particles. Given that dust tends to range from 1-100 microns and mould/mold spores are roughly 4-20 microns in size it suggests that a simple piece of kitchen towel or multi-ply toilet tissue could theoretically be used as a cheap disposable filter. Do not use paper as a fan filter on a computer. They require coarse high airflow filters to keep things like fluff and hair out. I designed a prototype 3D printed housing (can also be made without a 3D printer) using a standard low power illuminated 120mm computer fan to pull air through a layer of paper towel. It relies on a low volume flow of air to hold the filter in place on a platten and filter it slowly and continuously. It does this with almost no noise and an extremely low power consumption. This is an ongoing test. Let me know what you think of it. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

I'll warn you in advance, that if you want more from a USB charger than a measly 500mA then this one isn't for you. It might have uses for powering low current devices though. This came from a generic pound shop as opposed to one of the higher profile ones like Poundland. Now I want to get a recent Poundland car-USB charger and compare them. The one good thing about this charger is that it shows how minimalist the circuitry can be in a mass produced device when they can justify using a dedicated buck converter chip. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

When I bought this it seemed so much smaller and cheaper than the other kinetic switches (self powering remote control switches) that I thought it would probably just have a battery inside. It didn't help that when it arrived it felt exactly like a cheap clicky tactile switch. But it turns out there's a reason for that. This is the first piezo powered remote switch I've seen, and the circuitry is very odd in the way it resets itself. One of the worst things for microcontroller stability is a slow voltage drop. It can cause problems with software register corruption without causing a full reset. This circuit gets round this in a bizarre way. The range on this switch is acceptable if used in line of sight of the receiver or direct sight into the room the receiver is in. But it's not putting out a strong signal. Normal receivers do not pair with this switch, and its receiver does not pair with other remotes. For maximum range and versatility I still recommend getting a standard battery operated remote. The piezo disk is supported by a rim so that it bows slightly when the button presses against it. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

The current pandemic has caused some very retro technology to become popular again, but with a new twist. In this case it's a really clever little power supply for driving a low voltage gas discharge tube with current limited AC from a 12V DC supply. The load is a classic GTL3-style UVC lamp that I featured in another video. It's very odd in that it uses a filament with emissive coating at each end to allow a mercury vapour discharge at low power and voltage. Literally just 10V RMS. (RMS means Root Mean Square and means an average.) Traditionally these lamps were used in older style laundry equipment for air path sanitation, and usually used a 24V AC transformer with a beefy resistor in series to limit the current. There are sellers on eBay selling kits with just a PHAT capacitor in series, which may potentially cause sputtering (electrode damage) in the lamp. It's notable that people have been buying these lamps and screwing them straight into lamp holders with fuse popping results. They must have a current limited supply. This circuit seems to be custom made specifically for this one task. I've never seen a low voltage configuration like this before. If buying one of the lamps to play with, keep in mind that they do emit harmful UVC light that will cause eye and skin damage like a welding arc. There are two types - plain UVC and the more useful UVC and ozone. What actually turns up tends to be totally random. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

Yeah another dooby-lamp video. But it's the trashiest lamp I could find this time. Another look at a mass produced generic LED lamp designed to burn bright(ish) and fail fast. Because it only costs a dollar/pound nobody is going to bring it back for a refund. The most intriguing thing about this one is that it seems to be from a mass producer of these lamps for many brands, but this one has been optimised for being extra cheap and nasty. After hacking the 5-LED one I measured the voltage over the LEDs at 250V. That's 50V per LED suggesting around 18 LED chips in each LED package! Even with the dooby hack it's still dissipating just under half a watt per LED. But it's still going to last a LOT longer than in its original form. Here's a link to the video with the crystal 3D files in its description:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZKu9QMN5xw Adrians teardown of a Dollar Tree lamp similar to this one:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NbFmecSdycw If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

Despite being designed for use in a sauna or steam room, I can't help wondering if the steam is going to cause an issue with an open ceramic plate with about 3kV across it. Especially in creating carbon tracking paths. But here it is. Something that looks a bit like a wall or ceiling mounted speaker, but actually uses a soft electrical discharge to shred air apart into its component atoms, allowing them to recombine in unstable manners that have a strong oxidising effect. One day I'll make a video just about ozone production and uses so I can link to it and avoid having to cover the same stuff in multiple videos. For those comments inevitably announcing that ozone is deadly poison in any quantity, I feel the need to mention that while it is an irritant and hazard at high levels, it is present at trace levels in nature. There's a very high probability that it has an essential role in regulating mould, viruses and bacteria when at natural levels. Stating that it is a hazard at any level is like stating that water is a hazard at any level. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

This product is extremely functional, but has been designed to fit in a very tiny box with absolutely no room for wires. You may need to modify it to make them fit, noting that running wires past the antenna may reduce its range. That said, the design is good and the software in the ubiquitous little 8 pin microcontroller is very functional, allowing several remotes to be added with completely different functions assigned to each remote. This type of module is usually compatible with most of the generic remotes available on eBay. That makes it more versatile than the "kinetic" self-powering remote control systems, which tend to use proprietary codes. Although the common remotes do require a small battery, in most cases it should last for years and is cheap and easy to replace. Here's how to program this unit and many others that use the same software. To clear all codes press and hold the button for about 5 seconds until the LED starts flashing. To program each mode, press the button between 1 and 7 times, observing the brief LED flash with each press. After the required mode has been selected the LED will light to show it's waiting to receive a signal from the chosen remote button. Press the remotes button and the LED will go out, or if it's the two button toggle mode it will blink and then wait for the second button to be pressed (which doesn't need to be on the same remote.) If desired you can pair several other remotes by repeating the procedure. They can all have different functions. Modes:- 1 - Single button momentary action. Non latching. 2 - Single button toggle on/off. 3 - Two button on/off. Each button is assigned independently. 4 - Single button timer 5-second delay. 5 - Single button timer 10-second delay. 6 - Single button timer 15-second delay. 7 - Single button timer 20-second delay. Further presses will blink the LED, but just give the last 20 second delay mode. Some similar units have an adjustable link for setting the mode. It usually offers momentary, latching or two button toggle. The button may only be for learning a code. These units are common on eBay, usually supplied with a remote switch or key fob with a frequency choice of 433MHz or 315MHz. The RF chip may be a VI590R. Here's the datasheet:- https://datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/2012211239_VIBRATION-VI590R_C968713.pdf If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

The circuitry in this light is very simple. It does a decent job of dimming without flicker, but can drive the LEDs very hard at its brightest setting with good batteries. The dimming function is achieved by varying the base current of a standard NPN transistor resistively. The potentiometer passes very little current. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

This video is a continuation of an experiment that happened during a live stream on the BigCliveLive channel:- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClIzWmVzGPm2zhNT2XZ-Rkw During the stream I hooked capacitors in series with a cheap sealed 10W LED floodlight that is almost certainly baking its LEDs. This reduces intensity, but multiplies its lifespan significantly. This time I used a light meter to get an indication of how the intensity changed with current, and got a rough approximation of "lux per watt" at a height of 300mm (12") from the front of the light. This was not an ideal testing scenario and is just for comparison on intensity. One of the most notable things was how the efficiency dropped as the light heated up when running at full power. LEDs are less efficient at higher currents and when they are hot, so modern lights are not only designed to fail fast for profit reasons, but also perform badly as they do so. Here are the results. Full power cold 10.7W, 3010 lux, 281 lux per watt. Full power hot 10.7W, 2800 lux, 261 lux per watt. 1uf, 3.8W, 1460 lux, 384 lux per watt. (Capacitor voltage drop 62V) 470nf, 1.9W, 840 lux, 442 lux per watt. 330nf, 1.5W, 640 lux, 426 lux per watt. 220nf, 1W, 450 lux, 450 lux per watt. 100nf, 0.5W (estimated), 210 lux, 420 lux per watt. (Capacitor voltage drop 90V) 47nf, 0.2W (estimated), 90 lux, 450 lux per watt. 22nf, 0.1W (estimated), 30 lux, 300 lux per watt. At the lower levels the light's internal leakage shunt resistor would be affecting efficiency. Even at reduced intensity the light output from a basic 10W light was very good. Useful for ambient or security lighting. At 2W and below it becomes viable to use it as a simple 24/7 light source. It would have been nice to open this light, but it is glued shut with heat resistant silicone type adhesive. Previous attempts to open this style of construction have resulted in the glass breaking. Some lights like this may contain an active buck regulator and will possibly strobe at lower power. But most seem to use the cheap linear regulators. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

A random break from electronic stuff. The very complex and ingenious gadget found in some drink cartons. Here's the manufacturer's official video with a good animation of the operation:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRrCu8604pE If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

This self powering remote control switch was completely different to what I was expecting. It's a very interesting circuit, especially the way it uses just two connections per rocker switch to generate the power and also tell which way it was toggled. Given that sharp impacts can cause loss of magnetism over time, I wonder how long the switch will last. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

This is the switch on the wall of hotels that only turns the power on to things like lighting and air conditioning while a guest is in the room. I was expecting this to actually sense an active card, but it's simpler than that, which also allows it to operate with a plain key identification card. For some inexplicable reason I said LM324 (quad op amp) instead of LM358 (dual op amp) which I was thinking of. All the more impressive because I hardly ever use LM324s. The modular approach to this design makes me wonder if there are other units that use the same power and relay base, but a different daughter board to implement other functions. Although the instructions show the bezel and module as separate items, and mentions clipping the module into the frame, you can also just slide the front white plastic card holder up to remove it. They win mega points for the main power PCB for robustness, electrical separation, and the decent relay. One slight twist could have been to shuffle the PCB and sandwich the thermal fuse between the relay's contact side and the MOV to add an extra layer of protection against burning contacts. The thermal fuse on the MOV transient suppressor is excellent. They tend to have an end of life failure mode of heating up, and a lot of products use them without allowing for that. It would have been good to swap the positions of the power supply zener and decoupling capacitor to space the warm zener away from the electrolytic capacitor. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

This is the supercomputer panel that appears in the background of the weekly live streams on the BigCliveLive channel:- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClIzWmVzGPm2zhNT2XZ-Rkw Thanks to the wonders of eBay being China's electronic component dumpster, a fully factory sealed antistatic bag of 1000 flashing LEDs managed to have quite a high failure rate. It was suggested that I exchange the faulty blue ones for red ones to show the progressive failure across the panel over time. The piece of silicone tube I'm using to grip the LEDs for extraction while heating both pads simultaneously, is standard aquarium style silicone tubing. It's perfect for removing 5mm LEDs. The PCB is single sided to facilitate easy maintenance. Which turned out to be a good thing. Here are some of the links I mentioned:- The Sega Astrodata fortune telling machine:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1dnAzrce9E The Universal Studios Fast and Furious attraction:- https://youtu.be/87gFEEsGux4?t=181 South Main Auto:- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtAGzm9e_liY7ko1PBhzTHA And here's a link to the zip files for the PCBs. (A4 Gallium):- http://www.bigclive.com/freebies.htm If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

To make these customised lamps you can use the openscad scripts included at the bottom of this video description area. Download the free open-source openscad software for Windows, Linux and Mac from the official website:- https://www.openscad.org/ Once installed, clear the text area and copy and paste in your chosen script from down below. There are three. Diamond, Obelisk Quartz crystal and Globe quartz crystal. You can change several variables as desired to create globes with custom base and body sizes. By design, the globes will print as a hollow shell with a wall thickness of about 1mm. I recommend using natural/transparent PLA for the best light output, but you could also use white or colours for a solid visual shape. For safety you could use a flame retarded printing filament, but I don't use that myself. The lamps you use with this will need downrated to around 3W as shown to keep the housing cool and make the light last longer. Running at full power may cause thermal issues with the cover. Let me know if you try this project and how you get on. If you subscribe to the channel then I recommend keeping email notifications off. I put out a LOT of content. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Here's the first script. It's for the diamond shaped lamp. //Lamp cap diamond. //You can adjust the five variables below base=40; //Diameter of base for lamp rim=5; //Length of rim at base size=60; //Size of diamond facets=6; //Number of sides (default 6) scaling=0.66; //Ratio of length to width (default 0.66) //Don't change variables below here halfsize=size/2; $fn=facets; difference(){ union(){ //outer body translate([0,0,0]) cylinder(h=4+rim,d1=base,d2=base,$fn=100); translate([0,0,-(base/2)+rim]) cylinder(h=halfsize,d1=0,d2=size); translate([0,0,halfsize-(base/2)+rim]) cylinder(h=size*scaling,d1=size,d2=0); } //Inner core. translate([0,0,-1]) cylinder(h=6+rim,d1=base-2,d2=base-2,$fn=100); translate([0,0,-(base/2)+rim+1]) cylinder(h=halfsize-1,d1=0,d2=size-2); translate([0,0,halfsize-(base/2)+rim]) cylinder(h=size*scaling-1.5,d1=size-2,d2=0); translate([-halfsize,-halfsize,-halfsize]) cube([size,size,halfsize]); //x-ray box //translate([-80,-80,-50]) //cube([160,80,260]); } Here's the second script. It creates the quartz crystal that tapers to the top. //Lamp cap obelisk quartz crystal. //You can adjust the five variables below base=40; //Diameter of base for lamp rim=4; //Length of rim at base size=60; //Diameter of crystal scaling=1.5; //Scale of crystal length (default 1.5) facets=6; //number of faces (default 6) //Don't change variables below here halfsize=size/2; upper=halfsize-(base/2)+rim; $fn=facets; difference(){ union(){ //outer body translate([0,0,0]) cylinder(h=4+rim,d1=base,d2=base,$fn=100); translate([0,0,-(base/2)+rim]) cylinder(h=halfsize,d1=0,d2=size); translate([0,0,upper]) cylinder(h=size*scaling,d1=size,d2=size/2); translate([0,0,upper+size*scaling]) cylinder(h=size/4,d1=size/2,d2=0); } //Inner core. translate([0,0,-1]) cylinder(h=6+rim,d1=base-2,d2=base-2,$fn=100); translate([0,0,-(base/2)+rim+1]) cylinder(h=halfsize-1,d1=0,d2=size-2); translate([0,0,upper]) cylinder(h=size*scaling,d1=size-2,d2=(size/2)-2); translate([0,0,upper+size*scaling]) cylinder(h=(size/4)-1,d1=(size/2)-2,d2=0); translate([-halfsize,-halfsize,-halfsize]) cube([size,size,halfsize]); //x-ray box //translate([-80,-80,-50]) //cube([160,80,280]); } And the third script that creates a globe-like quartz crystal. //Lamp cap globe-style quartz crystal. //You can adjust the five variables below base=44; //Diameter of base for lamp rim=4; //Length of rim at base size=60; //Diameter of crystal facets=6; //Number of sides (default 6) scaling=1.5; //Scale of crystal length (default 1.5) //Don't change variables below here half=size/2; upper=half-(base/2)+rim; $fn=facets; difference(){ union(){ //outer body translate([0,0,0]) cylinder(h=4+rim,d1=base,d2=base,$fn=100); translate([0,0,-(base/2)+rim]) cylinder(h=half,d1=0,d2=size); translate([0,0,upper]) cylinder(h=size*scaling,d1=size,d2=half*3); translate([0,0,upper+size*scaling]) cylinder(h=(half*3)/2,d1=half*3,d2=0); } //Inner core. translate([0,0,-1]) cylinder(h=6+rim,d1=base-2,d2=base-2,$fn=100); translate([0,0,-(base/2)+rim+1]) cylinder(h=half-1,d1=0,d2=size-2); translate([0,0,upper]) cylinder(h=size*scaling,d1=size-2,d2=(half*3)-2); translate([0,0,upper+size*scaling]) cylinder(h=(half*3)/2-1.5,d1=(half*3)-2,d2=0); translate([-half,-half,-half]) cube([size,size,half]); //x-ray box //translate([-80,-80,-50]) //cube([160,80,280]); }

Having reverse engineered the four-wire version of this ozone generating module, I decided to get the two wire version too, as the circuitry looked different. Here's a link to the four-wire video:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GwHy-YfopL0 It turns out that these modules may be used in "chopstick sanitisers". Possibly along with a UVC lamp controlled by the safety relay in the four wire version. The unit splits oxygen molecules in the air apart using a low power corona discharge created by applying a high voltage AC supply between the gas in the tube (purely used to couple it to the inner walls and provide a visual effect) and the loose mesh on the outside of the tube. The current capacitively couples creating the corona discharge. Once the oxygen molecules have been separated into their two atoms they can combine with other oxygen/hydrogen atoms and create triple atom oxygen (O3/Ozone), Hydroxyl radicals (1 atom each of oxygen and hydrogen) and many other transient molecules. Because these molecules are short lived and want to get rid of the extra oxygen atom, or collect a hydrogen atom, they have a strong biological effect, killing bacteria and viruses quickly. Ozone and hydroxyl radicals occur in nature and may be an essential part of natures air cleaning system. Like most other things, like coffee and cake, ozone is harmful in large quantities, but safe at natural levels. The people who claim any level of ozone is harmful are generally taking an extreme and non scientific view. I tested the unit on 110V and as predicted it didn't work. When I added another 470K resistor in parallel to the existing one on the thyristor's trigger circuit, it did work, but at a much lower output. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

I bought this in a shop in London's Chinatown last time I was there. Let's take it apart. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

This is a common industrial grade switch-fuse unit used for isolation and protection. The unit in this video had failed, so I thought it would be interesting to see what had gone wrong. Note that the failed module also had a loose bit of plastic in it, and that may have contributed to the unusual failure. The contacts are notable for having a ball joint effect at one end, which ensures they always sit flat on the other contact. The spring loaded mechanism is basically two very powerful springs acting as an over centre toggle which will snap open and closed with force, rotating the common switch operation bar. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

This video is the copyright property of D Stuart, who has approved its use on this channel. It may not be copied and used elsewhere without his approval. While assembling a DIY power wall he had an incident when his friend accidentally drove a screw through a lithium module, resulting in explosive failure. With lithium cells, the danger isn't with the lithium itself, but the energy they store. When you puncture a cell it results in very high current flow that evaporates the flammable electrolyte and then ignites it with sparks from the short circuit. When working with them it's a good idea to discharge them as low as possible, so there is less energy to dissipate if you have an incident. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

And now for something completely different. As a break from electronic stuff, here's a teardown of a typical modern toilet flushing unit. I bet there are plenty of plumbers who have installed lots of these without knowing how they actually work. Each part of the world seems to have a slightly different tech in their toilet cisterns, so I thought it would be interesting to show a couple of versions and get feedback about what you use locally. Something else that I should have shown is that you can just unclip the flapper valve in the simple American unit to replace it. One system I didn't mention is the terrifying pressure flush systems in Las Vegas. They use mains water pressure to compress a small amount of water into a pressure vessel against the air in it. When you flush, it fires it with a dump valve horizontally at the bottom of the pan with a loud bang. The cisterns are odd inside because they are dry with just the pressure vessel. That system is used to conserve water so they can use it to fill the Bellagio fountains instead. Can I just mention that you rarely find an unemployed plumber. It's one of those jobs that is considered "dirty" (it's mostly not) and is a very good career choice that opens up other future work avenues. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

I bought this a while ago, but had made a few other solar light videos at the time, so decided to hold off with this one. Its most interesting feature is that it can be folded to different angles to suit the application, and potentially save shipping space too. The circuitry has one flaw, but is otherwise acceptable. General construction is... Typical of the type of product. Maybe a good parts donor for making one that is actually water resilient. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

A very pleasant evening spent crushing and hacking some very similar looking LED lamps from different brands. If you have a go at crushing the plastic, then make extra sure it's not glass, plastic coated glass or hard brittle plastic, to avoid getting cut. Gloves might be a good idea. The live stream channel I mentioned can be found here:- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClIzWmVzGPm2zhNT2XZ-Rkw It's best thought of as a weekly pub meeting for technical people. The hack involves the current sensing resistors. As the LED current flows through them the voltage across them rises up until it reaches a threshold where the circuitry effectively increases its resistance until a current balance is reached. Sometimes there's one resistor, but often there are two in parallel to allow fine tuning of the current. By dismembering one you can make the lamp run at much lower current and temperature. This makes the lamp run more efficiently and it will also last much longer than in its original form. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

It's a while since I've built a light, so here's an interesting one based on a cluster of repurposed Xmas lighting caps suspended from different heights. Although this version uses simple circuitry to allow it to be plugged directly into a mains voltage lamp holder, you can also make a safer version with lots of parallel stems with a 150 ohm to 220 ohm resistor per LED for use with a USB power supply or 4.5V battery pack. The wide viewing angle concave lens LEDs I used are notoriously difficult to find on eBay. I got mine as a bag of 1000 from Aliexpress, but be aware that quality and colour are not guaranteed. In this application standard 5mm LEDs can be used, and if the sockets are fitted then they can be swapped as desired. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

The smaller lamp bases often make it hard to fit decent drive circuitry into an LED lamp. Many manufacturers skimp by just having a low voltage ceramic capacitor and rectifier. But Philips have put some very interesting circuitry into this lamp. Here's a link to the original Dubai lamp teardown:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klaJqofCsu4 If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

One of the best things about these switches is that they use a very standard encoder chip, which means they'll work with most common eBay receivers. The EV1527 chips have a 20 bit random code (1,048,576 permutations) plus the 4 channels, so the risk of a matching code on another random remote is unlikely with well written software that tests all 24 bits. I've included the RF section for the radio hams. I'm not an expert in this area, but it strongly resembles the classic Colpitts oscillator used in many DIY FM micro transmitters. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

This is a faulty ground recessed uplighter that was sent for our exploration by Douglas. It's a classic example of premeditated landfill, with no replaceable lamp and a sealed case to try and stop water getting in. They are often mounted into a buried enclosure to ensure that anyone who works on them has to kneel on wet ground and fumble in stinky water to try and make a waterproof connection onto a cable that gets shorter every time a fitting is replaced. They're usually powered from panels where all the RCDs/GFCIs have been bypassed to "fix the tripping issues". (Not a good thing.) If working on this type of light it's VERY important to ensure power is properly isolated. That can sometimes be difficult when they are fed from random panels and are powered but not lit. Water and electricity are a bad combo for humans. You can see this type of light littering the pavements of cities and "architectural" areas. They either shoot light pointlessly into space while dazzling pedestrians, or put blotchy skidmarks of light up the side of buildings. They are notable for flickering gently as their corroded LEDs light the internal drops of water on their lens, and occasionally emitting steam from their submerged electrical connections. You may have noticed I'm not a fan of this type of light. But they do have their place if used as low intensity marker lights, with low voltage power supplies and easily replaced cables going to a nearby pillar. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

Having been impressed by the LED-neon pineapple sign I bought one of the rose shaped ones. Although from the same listing, the construction is different. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

eBay is full of weird and random industrial modules. I saw this one, and since I couldn't find any data about it at all, I decided to buy one and reverse engineer it. Even after working out what it does, I'm not sure of the exact application. I think it may be intended as part of a sterilisation system for rooms, where a limit switch on the door breaks power to the circuit, and it has to be reset manually upon leaving the room. The relay circuit is particularly special for its use of a cheap, small and rugged component in place of a traditional hot-running mains voltage component. The high voltage circuit is using a VERY non-standard approach to minimise components. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

When I saw this on eBay I wondered if the chunky brass connector on the antenna was going to be referenced to the mains supply. It didn't disappoint. In the wrong circumstances it can impart a serious electric shock. (Especially if live and neutral are swapped.) If you have one of these, be aware that it needs to be mounted fully inside a plastic enclosure. Other than that fairly significant thing, the only other obvious issue is the parallel zener diodes, where series connection would spread the load better. They're also dissipating a significant amount of power. If using this module I would look at changing the dropper cap for a lower value one matched to the real current requirement of the circuit with relay activated (around 50mA). Keeping in mind that the hold current of the relay is lower than the initial pull in current. If the supply is wired correctly, and the neutral is referenced to local ground, the potential on the antenna socket with respect to ground should be relatively low, but a reversed supply will allow a very high current shock. Basically the live feed, a diode and then you. I missed one small detail off the schematic of the receiver. The button is wired between a microcontroller pin and the 0V rail. It was only when I watched the video after recording it that I realised the F and N markings on the remote control are the last letters of off and on. I've never seen that before. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

While attempting to tidy up the gadget-mountain, I found this light that I bought via eBay a while ago. The listing hinted that it was a magnetic light for use on machines. It is. Specifically sewing machines, but it does have other uses where you need a splash of light. By Chinese standards it's actually quite well made and functional. The circuitry is good and the LEDs are an interesting type being run at a sensible level that will ensure a long life. This seems to be designed for Chinese factories, so I think it's only available in 220V. But it will still light on 120V. If using on 120V then you could increase the value of the red capacitor to about 1uF or 1.5uF with a rating of 250V for better intensity. The light is very hackable. You could change the LEDs to a colour of your choice, or even design a completely new LED PCB for either the existing power supply or a custom 12V version. The eBay keywords to find this are :- magnetic led machine lamp Target cost around £7, €8, $10. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

An inline toilet fan with timer that was sent in by Will (physicmad). In the UK we use toilet/bathroom fans that have a continuous and switched feed. When you turn on the light in the room the fan starts, and then continues to run for a fixed time after the light has been turned off again to purge any aromas or excessive humidity. The circuitry is usually very minimalist, using a current limiting resistor that is sometimes prone to cooking to the point that it can sometimes short out in some brands, with undesirable results. It's been pointed out that the resistor may double up as an anti-condensation heater to keep the enclosure dry. This unit has an intact resistor, but Will said the timing started getting shorter and shorter and the fan would sometimes struggle to start, even though it was free to spin. Can you guess what the fault was? The easiest fix for some of these is to remove the PCB and add a bit of terminal strip to run the fan off the switched feed. Just remember to leave the light on for a while after a bath or shower to remove the humid air. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

The LED neon-style ornaments are getting better and better. From the early version with vacuum formed thin plastic backing, to the moulded white plastic outlines, and now this very rugged version that looks like cast acrylic sheet with the channel for the LED strip and wiring holes cast-in. It's also using an interesting approach to terminate wiring onto the internal LED strip by making slits in the back, and directly soldering across two solid mid-LED pads to get a strong invisible connection. The LED strip has a resistor per LED giving a theoretical maximum current of about 10mA, which ensures long LED life while keeping the total current down for easy powering by a simple USB power supply. This ornament used about 800mA (4W). It's a shame it's hard to get the 5V LED-neon strip at the point of making this video. It's commonly used in this style of ornament as the single LED and resistor arrangement means it can be cut to very accurate lengths, and obliterating an LED in the process doesn't really show too much. You could retube these ornaments with the 12V version, but that can only be cut at a resolution of about 1 inch (25mm). LED-neon uses a continuous strip of LEDs on a flexible PCB, that is mounted sideways in a white and translucent extrusion. The light is bounced before illuminating the diffused front, resulting in a very smooth neon-like linear line of light. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

I think this is a very common style that is available from many sources. The circuitry is very typical of QI chargers. It pulses the output until it gets a response from a compatible device, and then transfers power inductively to the device being charged. QI devices are notorious for their inefficiency and the need for good alignment for optimal charge transfer. But the huge advantage is the convenience of charging and the lack of wear and damage risk to a traditional charge connector. The control chip is a mystery. I've a sneaky feeling that it's a 16 pin microcontroller with a bit of clever software to deal with the communication and coil driving via a MOSFET H-bridge. It will also be determining the type of power source it's plugged into by measuring USB data line voltage levels. Since the operation involves communication, it's possible that it's a microcontroller with dedicated QI charging functionality, since that would make it easier to implement the comms and adapt it to an evolving standard. The unusual wire coil is Litz wire used for very high frequency applications to minimise the skin effect of current preferentially flowing at the surface of a conductor at high frequencies. It's basically a bundle of thin insulated wires with a very thin sleeve to allow a tightly spaced coil. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

A variac is basically a variable auto-transformer that allows you to adjust the voltage between zero and the local mains supply voltage, or more if tapped mid-winding. They find use in specialist applications where it's useful to ramp the mains voltage up slowly for regulation or testing. Some applications would be inverter, motor drive repair, soft start of vintage electronics and some specialist lighting applications where lights need to be dimmed without phase angle noise. These units do not provide isolation from the mains supply, as they are just a single winding with an adjustable tap. I've sometimes wondered how they can seamlessly jump from one winding to another without bridging loops and crating shorted transformer turns. Since I had my unit open for fitting a new digital meter, I thought I'd test that with a thermal imaging camera. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

When I tested this it seemed like it might not even have a capacitor in it as the magic "mystery component". But it does. With extra mystical wiring. Probably a nice night light, but don't use force to get its bizarre plug into a standard socket. These units rely on deceptive marketing and science based loosely on power factor correction, which can't really be applied in this way to your home. To be quite blunt - it's conmen blinding the average Joe with science. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

This is very clearly one of those gadgets from the electromechanical era that was so simple and reliable, that few changes have been made to it over time. My guess is that maybe it was just a large LDR (Light Dependent Resistor) in series with the coil in an early version, but electronics have been added to allow use of a cheaper LDR and maybe add under/over voltage detection. I've got to admit that this was a very complex puzzle to get my head round. It achieves so much functionality with so few parts that I had to emulate every fault scenario to see what happened, and even then it wasn't initially clear. The magnetically restrained contacts were the most perplexing. Here's a functional tour from left to right. There's a bimetallic strip with 20W heating element that causes linear movement of an actuator. The set of contacts on the left are the shutdown/alarm contacts. If the linear actuator hits the end while the heater remains powered, it will actuate the latching contacts, which will shut the unit down and signal a fault until manually reset. The middle set of contacts had me confused for a while. They only become active on the return stroke when the oil valve contact is closed. It creates a time lag for the second stage oil valve if used. The oil valve contact is super-complicated. It is normally activated by the thermal linear actuator, but can be locked against actuation my a premature magnetic field on the flame detector coil. If the flame detector coil is active at the end of stroke of the linear actuator, the oil valve contact is held closed by a plastic pin, even when the linear actuator has retracted. The power to the bimetallic linear actuator's heater is switched through a contact on the flame sensor coil. It can only open when a successful ignition sequence has been completed. This was another piece of treasure from a dumpster-dive that yielded an entire oil burner assembly. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

During a recent zoom meetup with other electronic YouTubers, EEV-Dave asked how I get my detailed PCB images. I've been stalling on making a video about this for a long time due to the very rough appearance of my set-up. But as it's unlikely to change anytime soon (because it's the prototype that worked), here's my system for getting those shots. It can be adapted to suit other items by scaling it up with trial and error. It's also very rugged as demonstrated on the zoom meeting when I lobbed it over my shoulder, knocking my bottle or radium gin off the shelf behind me. (it's not actually radioactive). If you want to see the full zoom meeting with me, EEV-Dave, Julian Illet, the Post Apocalyptic Inventor, Martin Lorton, Mike's electric stuff and Electroboom at the end then it can be viewed here:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ricc9IZNuPo If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

This isn't a standard solar light. It's got very unique solar panels, and even more unique circuitry that makes it very different from ordinary solar lanterns. This light was sent by Steve at Nokero (No Kerosene) a few years ago, so hopefully the circuitry is still applicable. The Nokero website appears to be down now, so I'm not sure if they're still making these. The reason this light was designed is to provide safe illumination to parts of the world with no reliable electrical infrastructure. It uses good quality solar cells and a LiFePO4 battery that potentially offers around 2000 charge cycles with low loss of capacity over time. The most interesting parts of the circuitry are the current regulator, which took a lot of deducing to identify. The use of a Texas Instruments microcontroller that can monitor voltage accurately for circuit control, the unusual charge control technique of using the LED as a shunt load, and the very efficient use of a MOSFET as a very low drop alternative to the more common solar panel diode. The solar panel's transistor is only turned on when the panel's voltage exceeds the lithium cell voltage. It's effectively being used as a software controlled zero-loss diode (Active rectifier). That suggests that charge limiting is mainly based on the LED being used as a shunt load. The use of a LiFePO4 cell is notable, as it is safer and more rugged than the typical rechargeable lithium cells used in most phones and appliances. Although the technology has lower energy density than the classic 3.6/4.2V lithium cells, it offers greater capacity retention over its lifetime, and a much less volatile electrolyte. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

This is a faulty Honeywell heating controller sent by Dr Pipe, who's channel is linked below. It's exhibiting a common fault with these units where they keep resetting, preventing the heating systems from running. The usual fix is to swap the entire front unit or replace it with a new controller, but as with many of these devices, the fault can usually be fixed by replacing one or two components. For a professional heating engineer where time is money, it's going to be faster and easier just to swap the unit. But if you have one of these in your own home then it's viable to fix it yourself, either by loosening the two screws at the bottom of the unit and plugging in a new one or doing a small repair on the PCB. Be aware that when the unit is lifted off its backplate there are exposed live connections. Turn the heating system off completely and always assume that contacts are live until proven otherwise. Here's Dr Pipe's channel:- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0hk5bxzJjD_vyA5qHs93uQ I'll probably make another short video showing just the fix on its own. I tried desoldering the faulty surface mount capacitors, but even by SMD standards they are not easy to remove. They're not glued, but the solder connections extend underneath for far enough that it would require heat on both pins simultaneously to remove. There are also other smaller surface mount components in close vicinity that make hot air removal harder. They're probably best left in place, as attempting to remove them can easily result in track damage. The easiest fix is to add a standard through-hole 47uF 63V capacitor to the spare SMD capacitor position closest to the dropper capacitor, and laid flat over both the capacitor positions. I'll also test the dropper capacitor to see how low the value can go before it causes excessive voltage drop off. The dropper capacitor value can be tested in circuit due to its position in the circuitry. Despite its age, this one had held its value very well. This unit was old enough to have very brittle plastic. Be careful when separating the back from it. There are four clips that can be gently released with a thin screwdriver. Using excessive force may snap them off and prevent the unit being reinstalled in a safe manner. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

This E-scooter or E-bike was sent for our exploration by Jan in Germany. It's very unusual due to its huge 5V to 58V operating range, and is also not polarity sensitive. The light itself is really just a low power static red LED, but the two stage circuitry used to drive it efficiently from such a high voltage is quite interesting. Here's a link to the manufacturers website. They seem to have a huge range of lights and reflectors. https://www.satelitebikelight.com/products/ If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

This is uninspiring. It's a circuit breaker that looks and feels just like the real thing, but has no fault detecting ability at all. Why would somebody even make something like this? These fake breakers weigh 53g (2oz) per module. Typical UK breakers weigh 100g (4oz) per module. But weight is not a guarantee of functionality. It's made worse by the fact that there is no standard test to see if a circuit breaker is tripping at its rated current. There are specialist testers that use a low voltage transformer to test breakers, but they usually have to be removed from equipment for the test. A type C 32A breaker would also need to be tested at a minimum of 160A. The comment about industries who might appreciate un-trippable circuit breakers breaks down as follows:- Welders - particularly mobile welders often have an issue where the high inrush current to their equipment causes tripping of power circuits. Modern inverter welders usually contain an inrush limiting circuit to try and minimise this while also providing protection to the rectifier and capacitors. General contractors / General builders. Some of the worst wiring I've ever seen has been done by "all-trade professionals". Millwrights - The biggest electrical carnage I was sent to fix was caused by factory maintenance operatives who had progressively replaced all the fuses in line with a machine with wire links. The final straw was when they pushed a star-delta contactor in - bridging all three phases, and took out power for the whole factory, while explosively vaporizing many of the cables in the machine's control panel in the process. I wish there had been a camera to catch the incident happening, and then my expression when I arrived and opened up the control panel to find the charred remnants of the wiring and copper plated interior. Unscrupulous landlords. They're a thing in the UK. Usually cramming as many tenants as possible into squalid little rooms with butchered wiring and no fire escapes. Slightly less of an issue now than it used to be. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

This type of module is used in applications where you want a simple way to detect that a piece of mains powered equipment is active. It can be used to detect if a load that has been turned on has actually activated. That allows automated fault detection and indication. It could also be used to trigger functionality when a buildings lights are turned on or a pump runs. For 120V use it may be useful to swap in a 1W-2W 33K-56K resistor to increase the optoisolator current. As shown in the video, this building block is often used in multiples on elevator control PCBs for sensing phase presence and direction, to detect high voltage safety circuits and monitor loads to ensure they are powered when expected. Combining it on the main PCB saves on the cost of external phase monitoring modules. Definitely use multiple high power resistors when doing this though. Even if it does take up a bit more valuable PCB space. You can find these if you search for 220V optoisolator. They also do three and eight way versions. They don't seem to do specific 120V versions, but these ones may work as is, or after the resistor mod. Cost for a single channel module seems to be around 4-5 space credits. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

A test to see if ordinary LED lamps can be under-run like Dubai lamps to make them last longer with reduced intensity and heat. To limit the current I used different values of series capacitor, which has a soft limiting effect, making it compatible with traditional capacitive dropper and linear regulator based lamps. This technique does not work with some lamps with switchmode based power supplies. They will tend to strobe due to the way the circuitry works. This project involves mains voltage, and suitable precautions should be taken during your experimentation. The trickiest bit about making a Dooby lamp is finding a place to put the capacitor. In some capacitive dropper based LED lamps it's easy, since their covers may unclip allowing the original high value capacitor to be changed for a lower one. For other lamps like the glass filament styles the capacitor will need to be put inline external to the lamp. That could be in a lamp extender (if you can get one that is easy to open), in a ceiling rose, in the wiring box of a chandelier or in the lightswitch enclosure. Doing it at the lightswitch opens up the possibilities of letting the lamp be switched between full intensity mode or a lower security/night light mode. With two switches you could have the option of on, dim or off. A benefit of using a capacitor is that it is a soft, efficient and low noise way of dimming to a fixed level. The power factor will generally be no worse than the original, and a suitably rated capacitor will be virtually indestructible in this application. From my tests the following 400V AC capacitors worked well for a European 220-240V supply:- 470nF converted most lamps to approximately 2W 220nF converted most lamps to around 1W 100nF converted most lamps to around 0.5W 47nF was not measurable. Probably around 0.2W 22nF was not measurable. Probably around 0.1W 10nF (ceramic capacitor). Some lamps won't glow because they have an internal shunt resistor to avoid nuisance glowing due to capacitive switch-wire coupling. But others will glow at a surprising intensity for the tiny current. (I was really surprised at the intensity of some lamps.) For 120V supplies the capacitors should be 250V AC film capacitors and the values may have to be higher - like 1uF or more. The capacitors are common and cheap, so they can be experimented with. They can be connected in parallel for higher capacitance. I used a 1 Megohm resistor in parallel with the capacitors during my tests, as the capacitors can store a charge and may give a slight zap if not discharged. In final use the resistor can be soldered or twisted directly to the capacitor leads. The capacitors will run cold and should be insulated properly if used behind switches or in junction boxes. That could be done with heatshrink sleeving. Although the super low value capacitors like 22nF only made the lamps glow dimly, it makes them very suitable as directly viewed decorative lamps or for use as night lights, where very little light will be ample at night. With such low power the lamps can be left running continuously, as they will last a very long time and cost virtually nothing to run. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

I succumbed to temptation and dumpster dived a skip outside a neighbours house to see if there was anything technical in it. It was mainly junk, but there was a Honeywell two port valve in it, so I thought it would be interesting to take apart. The little correction I made in my schematic of a Type-S heating system was to take the pump/boiler switch feed directly to the live rail. If I'd left it as I originally drew it, then one valve actuating would have back-fed the other valves in the system and prevented them from turning off until everything else had turned off. Not a bad diverter valve. Rugged construction and quite easy to change the motor. If changing the switch take a photo of it first, and note that the motor has to be removed to remove one of the switch screws. Here's a link to the video I made about the three port Y-system valve. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEOLyv5VcFM If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

A nice simple video showing a common eBay LED light that mounts flush to a wall and provides a splash of light on landings and stairs. The little power supplies with these should not be regarded as being fully isolated. Some have basic electrical separation and others might be supplied with mains referenced outputs. So if you like these it may make sense to buy a suitable 300mA driver that complies with local standards. The use of a Luxeon star style LED means that swapping in a new LED of your colour choice is fairly easy. If desired, the thermal coupling to the back of the housing could also be improved. The typical search keywords for these on eBay are:- led recessed stair light round If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

This is an odd device. It attaches to the side of a compatible circuit breaker, and connects to its outgoing connections. If an overvoltage or undervoltage situation occurs the device triggers and switches off the circuit breaker. It's important to note that the unit musn't be powered continuously in a fault condition. If the power is not cut to it when it triggers, then the coil and circuitry will potentially suffer damage. I took a guess at what the circuitry might be inside, but was completely wrong. In the true style of cost driven engineering, the circuitry is the cheapest possible. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

These power saving plugs have been around for a while. They possibly started life as a genuine filter plug for softening significant mains transients, but then found a new scam market being sold as power savers, often sold using fraudulent claims of reducing your home electricity bill by a significant amount. (They don't.) Things have taken a slightly darker twist recently, with adverts involving pictures and video of young kids, with fabricated stories of how they invented this miracle power-saving device, but refused to be bought out by "big-oil" so that everyone could benefit from their technology. When these adverts have appeared on platforms like Facebook they have inevitably resulted in a flurry of gushing comments from people who have become emotionally involved with the story of youth heroism and have bought several units to support them. In reality these units are probably being drop shipped from Chinese warehouses, which will also happily supply their long established product to you if you search on eBay for "power saver". The going rate on eBay is around £5 shipped (about $7). If you buy from the rogue marketers they will mark that up significantly if you even get the products. (Facebook has a terrible history of marketing scams where people have been duped out of their hard earned money.) As mentioned in the video, you can bring down your home energy bill dramatically by understanding that the most significant energy costs are heat sources, air conditioning and equipment that runs continuously. By adjusting the house temperature down slightly and wearing warmer clothes you can save a significant percentage of your heating bill. Tracking down draughts will reduce the amount you spend on heating or cooling the outside air, and even basic attic insulation has the same effect as wearing a hat. It keeps the heat in or out. The very best REAL energy saving plug you can buy is a power monitor plug that shows you how much power appliances are actually using. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

These beacons are commonly mounted on industrial equipment to indicate that a process has finished or a problem has occurred. They are available in 12V, 24V, 36V, and 220VAC versions and a range of colours including red, yellow, green and blue. (The 220V version seems fine on 110V to 240V.) I bought a 12V and 220V unit to compare them, and it turns out they use a common PCB. I'd guess the 24V and 36V units probably use a resistor to limit the current to the 12V Zener. The 220V version is the most versatile since it can be adapted to any voltage and also made into a static light by bridging the transistor that flashes the LEDs. These units are very low power at less than one watt. The keywords to find these are:- "industrial warning beacon" There are different types, and the typical price is around $6 plus shipping. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

Having already taken the 220V version of this product apart and discovered its use of a very small voltage multiplier, I decided to get a 110V version to see how it differed. It's VERY different, with an extremely minimalist transformer pulse circuit that could find other applications. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

These fascinating lamps are a result of a collaboration between Philips Lighting and Sheikh Mohammad Bin Rashid Al Maktoum - the ruler of Dubai. They are designed to be the most efficient available, matching high lumen output with very long life. Once you see the construction and circuitry you'll realise this isn't just marketing spin. In return for the development Philips gained exclusive rights to manufacture the lamps for a fixed duration, extending from their announcement in 2016. Philips expect to have supplied 10 million of the lamps by the end of 2021. There is a requirement for new installations to use the new lamp, which has upset some designers and architects, as they are only available in 8 forms. 3W and 2W globes, a 1W candle globe and a 3W MR16 12V downlight version. All four available in either cool daylight or warm white to make up the eight options. This restricts the style of the lamp shape and excludes warmer whites unless coloured by a shade. They're also not dimmable, which contributes greatly to their reliability, but does require a more open minded approach to lighting design. The range also excludes the GU10 format, which isn't a bad thing as they're probably one of the least reliable lamps due to the use of electronics in a confined space with hot LEDs. These lamps are currently only available in Dubai. The likelihood of them appearing elsewhere is limited by the fact that they are designed to last a long time, which isn't profitable for the manufacturers. Maybe that'll change over time. Although Philips have initial exclusivity of supply, it'll be interesting to see what happens when that period of time comes to an end. Will the other manufacturers make the same amount of effort as Philips did? Slight correction. The two MOSFET gate resistors are actually 4.7Mohm and not 470K, which makes sense for gate voltage protection. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

Nice night light, but certain things had to be tested... It turns out that it's quite hard to make the suspect resistor emit smoke, and the electrolytic capacitor pop when you abuse it. Obviously I could have MADE it go bang if I had applied malice, but I wanted to test the real life failure scenario of the LED circuit going open circuit. After making the video I added a zener diode and new 1 Megohm resistor with much higher voltage rating. Estimated real power is just 0.2W as stated on the packaging. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

A look at how capillary thermostats work and how to use them. Capillary thermostats are a simple electromechanical thermal switch that uses a very thin metal tube to sense temperature at another location, by using the thermal expansion/contraction of liquid or gas to activate an adjustable switch. The search keywords for finding a wide range of units on eBay are:- "refrigerator thermostat" Note that there are quite a few similar looking versions and a massive price range for the same thing. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

I've looked at these before, but they seem to evolve with time or maybe come from different manufacturers. The English translation is gloriously terrible with non-English words thrown into the mix. It appears to have evolved from older fluorescent lamp based versions. These things are supposed to lure flying bugs to zap them. They claim that it attracts mosquitoes, but it's usually just ordinary sun seeking flies they attract if at all with their low intensity LEDs. If you like the reverse engineering videos, then subscribing to the channel will give you a regular supply of similar videos. The grid is referenced to the mains supply and fully accessible with little inquisitive fingers, so this is not safe for kids. With more effort it's accessible to adult fingers too, and holds a charge when unplugged. Here's a link to one that was made from completely random capacitors, and exploded:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1AkvaKYKeQ If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

A cheap wall mounting light that can be used for lighting paths, floors or walkways without glare. Like many modern LED lights, this unit should be considered disposable. If it fails the whole unit will have to be replaced or repaired. Construction is quite nice, the light level is OK for a pathway at night and the PCB has some level of hackability. Either changing the LEDs for a different colour, using your own design of PCB or just changing the dropper capacitor to 100nF or 220nF for a lower intensity light. Here's a link to the CPC page for these lights in the UK:- https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/pel01324/led-wall-light-100mm-dark-grey/dp/LA07984 They do a few different sizes. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

The final component from the cheap eBay quad/scooter wiring loom. It's the key switch that is mostly a visual deterrent to the casual thief. Before opening it to look at its construction I decided to do a "lock picking lawyer" and have a go at picking it first. Here's a link to the lock picking lawyer's channel:- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCm9K6rby98W8JigLoZOh6FQ A professional would bypass something like this very easily at an electrical level. One of the best things to do for security could be adding a simple hidden switch across the kill circuit elsewhere on the bike. Even with the key switch bypassed or unplugged, the bike would only be able to be started by turning the secret killswitch off. I'm almost sad that I've taken apart the last component on the wiring loom. It was a lot of fun reverse engineering all the components. For those asking about the cable, it does appear to be copper, and while not being a high current wire (other than the starter cables) it is probably adequate for the job. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

When someone asked if I could take a look at a 60 effect laser disco light, I was a bit cynical about what it would be like. After stalling for a bit I ordered one from eBay, which came through very quickly in an alarmingly small box. It turns out to be one of the most exciting laser products I've taken apart in a while. Largely due to the fact that it does have 30 different effects multiplied by a simple red laser projection of the effect and a further diffracted green laser version. The result is a continuous effect variation with the extra effect of animation of many of the effects just by the movement of the diffraction grating section past the lasers. It's very bright, which looks great, but doesn't bode well for eye safety or longevity of the green laser module. The current consumption is quite low for the scale of the effect, potentially allowing a long run time on a USB power bank. The circuit board is clean, modular and functional, with a hidden bonus charger built in for the option of using an internal lithium cell for stand alone operation. It appears they do sell them with the lithium cells fitted. There's also a mottled red, green, blue LED that provides a wash of light, but it's more of a gimmick. As with many of these devices there's a simple audio detector that will step through the LED colours, alternate the lasers or rather annoyingly, strobe the output. I'd say that this light is actually worth getting just to see the morphing patterns of the diffraction wheel. It's a very clever effect. To find these on eBay the keywords are - 60 patterns laser usb Target price is around £€$20. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

The cheap Chinese quad/scooter wiring loom yields another treasure for our exploration. The starter solenoid. It's internal operation is different to what I was expecting. In hindsight I guess the way it works allows it to "bang" the contacts apart when turned off, to prevent them sticking. This is the bit that sometimes fails, making loud clicking noises when your car's starter motor is supposed to be turning over. A sharp blow with the handle of a large screwdriver can sometimes get you back in action temporarily. The coil is controlled from your start button/key and switches the high current required by the starter motor. The solenoid coil seemed OK on 6V (1.75A) and 12V (3A), but has a low duty cycle for thermal reasons, so is not suited for continuous operation. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

A slightly messy and unplanned video showing the construction of the Department of Villainy Christmas lighting panel for the local town hall display. It's based on an aluminium frame with a welded steel mesh attached to it, to allow easy attaching of various features including LED based linear (neon) strip, plastic forms for use with the same material and a back drop of LEDs to fill in the space. It's designed to be stripped and re-used for different years/displays. The "Department of Villainy" name is a spoof on the naming of official government departments. Speeded up footage of me building the metal frame and attaching the mesh:- https://youtu.be/2flsFpv92bc Converting standard USB/battery powered "neon" shapes to LED for use in the panel. https://youtu.be/6vtVAgPi6Mk Building last years controller at normal speed (1hr 24min) while answering questions:- https://youtu.be/qfOardiykPs This year's build speeded up:- https://youtu.be/KxBJ2GweE7s The first version of the software for animating the frame and stars. It was to get a feel for what worked, and was then adjusted for the best visual effect. https://youtu.be/7DEz8DxwfyI Last year's panel in place:- https://youtu.be/M9kSbnm5XrI

By special request. Trimming the full beard back to a long goatee fast with a funnel and shaver. Apparently this video was good enough to get ripped off repeatedly on TikTok with the channel identifier carefully cropped out. Last time I recorded this I did it with a black short and got requests to do it again with a lighter colour so the resulting goatee is actually visible. To do this you'll need a 4" (100mm) funnel and a good beard trimmer that is freshly cleaned and oiled. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

This video includes free software to create a massive variety of custom caps for your Christmas lights. It uses the extremely clever OpenSCAD software with a custom script that allows you to adjust several variables that allow you to make custom shaped lights with a base designed specifically to fit your choice of lights. The script included down below has a starter shape designed to fit onto standard heat shrink style 5mm LED strings. You can then experiment further with it. To create your custom lights, download the free OpenSCAD software from the official site:- https://www.openscad.org/ At the bottom of this description you'll find a script (a block of text) which you can copy and paste into the text window of OpenSCAD and then experiment with. After saving the generated STL file it can be sliced (converted into 3D printing layers) by a program like Cura:- https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura And then 3D printed in clear or coloured PLA. Clear PLA creates a nice lensing effect, while white PLA creates a universal diffused cover that will show a soft even colour with diffused LEDs or a patterned effect with clear LEDs. Using suitably coloured PLA filament allows you to create very retro Christmas lights that are best illuminated with a matching LED colour, but can also provide pleasing pastel shades when used with white LEDs. I only recommend the use of these caps with LEDs, as using them over tungsten lamps will trap heat and could result in the plastic melting or burning. The script for making these lights is at the bottom of this description. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. The script is below. Copy and paste the whole thing to OpenSCAD. //Globe fairy light cap generator - bigclivedotcom //Generates an LED cap based on a top and bottom //diameter with flat sides. //Suggested default values are in brackets. //ADJUST THESE VARIABLES FOR GLOBE SHAPE AND SIZE top=6; //Diameter of globe at top (6) bottom=20; //Diameter of globe at base (20) height=40; //length of lamp (40) facets=12; //Number of facets around lamp (12 at first) //More facets equals MUCH longer processing time! //ADJUST THESE VARIABLES FOR BASE DIMENSIONS baselen=4; //Length of base outside globe (4) inside=5.5; //Internal diameter of base (5.5) led=5; //LED HOLE diameter (5) //Don't touch variables below this line $fn=facets; toprad=top/2; botrad=bottom/2; outside=inside+2; base=baselen+5; difference(){ union(){ difference(){ union(){ //Outside shell of globe hull() { //base of globe sphere(r=botrad); //top of globe translate([0,0,height-toprad-botrad]) sphere(r=toprad); } } //Inside hollow of globe hull() { //base of globe sphere(r=botrad-1); //top of globe translate([0,0,height-toprad-botrad]) sphere(r=toprad-1); } } //LED base cylinder translate([0,0,0-botrad-(base-5)]) cylinder(h=base,d1=outside,d2=outside,$fn=100); //LED base dome translate([0,0,0-botrad+5]) cylinder(h=(outside-led)/2,d1=outside,d2=led+1,$fn=100); } //LED base interior translate([0,0,0-botrad-(base-5)-.01]) cylinder(h=base+.02,d1=inside,d2=inside,$fn=100); //LED dome interior translate([0,0,0-botrad+5]) cylinder(h=(outside-led)/2-1,d1=inside,d2=led,$fn=100); //LED hole translate([0,0,0-botrad+5]) cylinder(h=10,d1=led,d2=led,$fn=100); //x-ray cube //translate([-50,-50,-40]) //cube([100,50,100]); }

The difference in price and construction between home and professional Christmas lights is huge. But when you see the difference in the construction you realise that there's a lot more work in making the professional ones, and the materials add a lot of expense and weight too. These are the strings of lights often used on city centre trees, either wrapped round the branches of ordinary trees or strung seasonally on big Christmas trees. They're also used on the aluminium panels mounted on the sides of lamp posts, either on their own or with rope light outlines, some festoon for brighter points of light or strobes for sparkle and sometimes shoved through industrial grade fire and weather retardant tinsel. Stuff like this tends to have a rough life, with extreme weather exposure and frequent installation and removal by people who often don't treat them too well and cram them into vans and storage spaces. Cheap home grade lights would be destroyed quickly in a similar application. The lights are usually available in white, black or green rubber, with black being a preferred choice. The use of a high voltage DC bus allows a lot to be run end to end, but you have to be careful to ensure that the sealing o-rings are in place in the connectors. Lesser installers will often lose the o-rings when they are essential in avoiding plug and socket failure. If possible keep a bag of spare o-rings if you do a lot of work with stuff like this. In the UK the mains voltage stuff shouldn't be used at ground level where kids can touch it. But certain types of company who use casual labour with dubious electrical credentials will use it because it's cheap. The same companies may use the wrong types of protection or quite often none at all "because it keeps tripping". It's important to note that if these lights are wrapped round the branches of trees for year-round decoration, they have to be maintained. That involves checking their condition, making sure they're still loose and if necessary, repositioning them onto the tree to prevent bark and light damage as it grows. If just ignored, as often happens with city councils, the trees will literally grow through the lights, forming bark around them and potentially breaking them and exposing live connections. It's not unusual to see trees with a tiny section left lit, if any, and exposed live wires in amongst the branches. The live wires may not be obvious if the tree is unlit. Never assume the power is actually off. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

While placing an order for a PIR sensor from a prominent UK supplier I added this dusk sensor in because it looked very "eBay". It turns out that it may not be ideal for its intended application, but it would make an excellent case for mounting outdoor electronics. Light, temperature and humidity sensors come to mind, but it could also house a USB WiFi dongle or other active antenna for connections between buildings. An interesting possibility would be to 3D print custom base inserts for specific applications. I have a few reservations about its original purpose. The relay switching is not a precise digital event, so it depends on the relay maintaining contact pressure with falling coil current, until it drops out. It may be that it does decisively break the circuit when used like that. Something that is important with inductive loads to minimise arcing. The other oddity is its use of single insulated cores with no obvious way to cover them. In the case of general maintenance operatives there's a risk that if they get handed something like this to install they will just assume that exposed wires are OK and fit it. That would pose the risk of accelerated UV degradation in addition to the lack of the double insulation required for cables outwith an enclosure. One scenario this might find use is where it's mounted within a clear fronted electrical enclosure with something like an LED power supply, but that would affect its light detecting ability, and clear front enclosures generally cost more than standard ones, meaning it could be cheaper to use a proper external sensor with a plain enclosure. The use inside a clear lid enclosure could have advantages in a factory assembled box with everything pre-wired inside though. I'd say this product is more valuable for its case than its circuitry. Let me know what you think in the comments area. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

The 2020 Christmas tractor run going along Parliament Street in Ramsey on the Isle of Man. All Advertising revenue generated by this video was sent to IOM Young Farmers for their charity work.

These common eBay strings of lights are delightfully trashy. They seem a complete bargain at just £3.50 shipped (twice that or more at Christmas time). But the low price comes at the cost of safety. They are made down to a price, and that means they run directly at mains voltage with the incoming supply being converted from AC to DC and then used to run long strings of LEDs in series with a smattering of undersized resistors soldered to the first few LEDs. In some instances these LED strings do have applications, but only indoors out of reach of humans and pets. And only used in static mode if the resistors in the first few LEDs of the string don't rapidly start going brown! If used outdoors around handrails or foliage there is a risk of current flow if water wicks into the LED sleeves and bridges to conductive material. Worse still, that current leakage will be DC, which can defeat some older RCDs/GFCIs and even desensitise them to other leakage faults elsewhere. The fake 13A plug to make them look UK compliant is just scraping the barrel. Especially the matching fake fuse that isn't even connected in circuit. If you want safe Christmas lights then choose the ones with the plug in low-voltage power supplies. Kids and pets are attracted to strings of fairy lights, so it makes sense to pay a bit extra for safe ones that won't give an electric shock when played with or chewed. The really annoying thing is that these strings of lights are so close to being safer. Better wire, double sleeving, more resistors and preferably just a rectifier and no flashing patterns to get rid of that nasty control box. It could make for quite useable lights. Note that any heat shrink sleeved LED lighting strings will wick in water and corrode when used outdoors. If you have a project you want to last more than one or two seasons in a wet environment, then choose the much more expensive rubber cable municipal lights with the LEDs and their resistors potted individually in resin filled caps. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

While browsing for unusual modules on eBay I came across an odd little unit intended for keeping the interiors of fridges or other small spaces sterile. Before anyone starts indignantly announcing that the correct way to keep your fridge sterile is to clean it regularly, I should mention that the main point of this device is to stop transfer of odours from stinky cheeses and other aromatic foods, and also to prolong the life of exposed food by limiting the growth of bacteria or mould. The unit claims to put out positive and negative ions, and it does have a carbon fibre emitter for each that does indeed have a matching charge. However, the main characteristic of this unit is the slight hint of ozone. Ozone gas (an unstable 3-atom oxygen molecule) is increasingly being used at low levels in catering environments to reduce the risk of food poisoning and prolong product shelf life. The power consumption of this module on 240V is very surprising. Just a fraction of a watt at 0.01W (ten milliwatts). Before de-potting this unit I had a guess at what might be inside. I expected the common circuit based on discharging a capacitor in pulses through a small high voltage transformer, but I was completely wrong. It's a very neat little circuit, but quite perplexing as the component count is much lower than expected.for the style of circuitry. Here's a search link for the 220-240V version of this module:- https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=TFB-YA2102&_sacat=0&_sop=15 Here's a search link for the 110-120V version of this module:- https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=TFB-YA1102&_sacat=0&_sop=15 Here's a search link for the 12V version of this module:- https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=TFB-YD12102&_sacat=0&_sop=15 Note that I do NOT recommend using 12V DC ioniser modules on ungrounded plug-in power supplies, as they can create a high enough voltage differential to ground to cause arcing/tracking between the low and high voltage sides of the power supply. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

This well-cremated consumer unit (home distribution board) was sent by Nick Bundy for our entertainment. You can see the video where he replaces it with a new one here:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_VHEBGMHEI From 2016 all new consumer units in the UK tend to be metal cased ones to reduce the risk of incidents like this. This may have been influenced by a number of recalls related to Wylex circuit breakers with contact burning issues. Under fault conditions a circuit breaker in the UK can potentially have to break a fault current of several thousand amps, so I've never really been comfortable with the value engineering that has been applied to them. £3 or less seems just too low for something so important to electrical safety. It's possible that the root of this fault was either a faulty isolator or poor termination. There's a lot more to terminating a cable than just stuffing it into a hole and clamping it with a screw. With rigid cables like the tails shown, it's especially important that the rigidity of the cable doesn't result in a twisting force on the terminal, as it can potentially affect contact positioning. It's also important to recheck that terminals haven't loosened when cables are moved. It's interesting to note that both RCDs were in their tripped state, but while they isolated all wiring leading from the fire they couldn't isolate the cause itself. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

Poundland has had USB powered LED tape in the past, but this new version has an inline PIR sensor with standard power jacks on either side. The bit that really caught my attention was the wide voltage range of the sensor, making it suitable for 5V, 12V and 24V applications. Here's a link to a datasheet for the unusual BS612 integrated PIR sensor:- http://www.image.micros.com.pl/_dane_techniczne_auto/cz%20as612.pdf Although everything is integrated into a 6-pin PIR package, it still allows adjustment of the dusk level and time delay. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

For such a lightweight plastic measuring device, the resolution of 0.1mm or 0.01" and repeatability is quite astonishing. Whilst not being suited to a professional machinist, these units are ideal for ordinary measurements, including designing 3D printed components. It should be noted that the quiescent current of these devices is around 18uA, even when off (the display goes off until movement is detected). Some users are reporting a very short battery life, but a typical 100mAh (0.1Ah) button cell should be able to supply 0.00002A for a very long time. (Theoretically 100's of days.) The linear capacitive encoder in these units is very impressive. The physical encoder is seemingly very simple, with the bulk of the work being done by the ASIC (Application Specific Integrated Circuit). It's very similar in its cost optimisation to the cheap, but super-accurate weighing scales. I'm really impressed by the accuracy of these units for their price. They are very common on eBay for as little as £5 (about $7 USD). Here's a generic search link for the USA:- https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=carbon+fiber+caliper&_sacat=0&_sop=15 Or for those in the UK:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=carbon+fiber+caliper&_sacat=0&_sop=15 The standard search term is carbon fiber caliper. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

A non standard video. Just a ramble about stuff on my bench before I tidy it up. The rosin dissolved quickly in the bottle of flux. I'm suddenly realising that it's probably just a bottle of isopropanol with a small chunk or rosin dissolved in it. Now I'm tempted to see what effect different ratios of resin in isopropanol have. I was a bit reckless with plugging in that rope light without knowing the polarity. Some LEDs don't take reverse polarity at a high voltage very well. The correct approach would have been to examine the LEDs through the tubing and try to work out polarity that way. The PTC fuses are usually just intended for low voltage. You do get versions for mains voltage, but they often have peak current restrictions. The primary advantage of these devices is that if a fault occurs they will trip, but then reset when power is removed and they cool down. I have since built my custom audio lead and it works fine. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

Building the aluminium frame with mesh panel for the Department of Villainy Christmas lighting unit. Note that the work trousers (pants) do have foam knee pads built in. At some point I'll put a bench in that area (the garage). Done in the style of Jimmy Diresta, to squish 48 minutes of work into a 3 minute video. Jimmy Diresta's channel:- https://www.youtube.com/user/jimmydiresta The frame is made of aluminium box section 25mm/1" square, and joined with hammer-in plastic corners. The mesh is welded steel mesh with 12.5mm/half inch squares. It's secured to the frame with self tapping screws and large diameter washers (penny washers). The frame is designed for indoor use, and to be reusable by allowing a different display to be attached to the mesh each year. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

For this years Department of Villainy lighting frame I decided to use standard common USB/battery powered LED stars, but converted to 12V and in eight different colours. Here's the process of stripping off the original 3V strip and replacing it with standard 12V strip. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

These modules are being widely sold on eBay, both inside cases with fans, or in their bare form. It's worth mentioning that these units shouldn't really be used outside a grounded metal case for a few reasons:- They operate at very high voltage. Around 4kV and probably in the region of 30mA. They will get quite hot in use. Possibly too hot without fan cooling. The failure mode is sometimes a sustained hot electrical arc. They will almost certainly emit huge quantities of electrical noise. The level of ozone generated, especially with a fan, is huge. They are not suitable for use in small rooms other than for shock ozone treatment. I'd categorise these as industrial modules. The circuitry was surprising. Very reminiscent of an electronic halogen driver. I'm wondering if this is the same circuitry used in electronic neon power supplies.

Unlike the very shady 120/230V units, this one is pretty good. Nicely made and logical circuitry that has an element of hackability to it for fine tuning to your requirements. The current setting resistor could be changed to tweak the charge current, noting that higher current will potentially result in thermal self regulation of the charge chip. Use of higher current will also make the charger less suitable for smaller cells. Conversely, you could lower the current to 200mA for softer charging of any size of cell. The LED resistor could be changed to something in the region of 470 ohm to make the LEDs more visible. Unlike some other charger which fire springs in random directions and require Rubik's-cube grade reassembly skills, this one is easy to take apart and reassemble. Here's a generic eBay search link:- https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=14500+usb+charger&_sacat=0&_sop=15 Target cost around $4 shipped. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.

A variation on the standard Mountain Breeze ionisers that was aimed specifically at helping combat VODS (VDU Operator Distress Syndrome), a rather dramatic title to explain the fatigue of sitting in front of cathode ray tube monitors all day. The concept was that the CRT had a positive charge on its surface that was counteracted by the ionisers generation of negative ions. There's a probability that many of the VODS symptoms were caused by long hours, flickery displays, chemicals liberated by hot components (early VDU's gave off strong "electronic" smells) and being slouched in front of the computers while wearing synthetic fabric clothing, on plastic seats on nylon carpet. Basically electrostatic hell, with this little unit doing its best to nudge the polarity in your favour. The main feature that differentiates this ioniser from the classic one is the use of an LED as a power indicator. Up to that point ionisers with indicators had used neon lamps for their ease of driving, and an LED gave the unit a modern "electronic" look in keeping with the computer era. A green LED of that time was based on gallium phosphide technology and they were very dim, even at 20mA, so to drive one from the mains wasn't as simple as using a resistor and diode. It had to be a capacitive dropper, and that was pretty unusual for that time. Other than that, the rest of the circuitry is a standard 11-stage Cockroft-Walton multiplier with 22 10nF 630V capacitors, 22 1N4007 diodes and two 10 Megohm safety resistors on the output to the needles. It's worth mentioning that this arrangement is probably only practical for 220-250V use, as lower voltages would require a much larger multiplier. Ionisers impart a strong electrical charge into air by applying a high voltage (several thousand volts) to sharp points. This results in electrons attaching to air molecules, and dust which then gets repelled away from the sharp points (like-charges repel) creating a slight draught. The negative charge neutralises positive charges and also precipitates dust to ambient surfaces like walls and floors. Although considered quack products by some cynics, largely due to the use of snake-oil sales techniques in the past, the units do have a distinct effect - although their indiscriminate dust precipitation does make a mess in their vicinity. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.